Winter in Dordogne
#1
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Winter in Dordogne
We usually spend six months of the year in Florida. This year we decided to come to France for three months, two months of which are in Dordogne. Sound nuts?
The following are observations made after only a few days in this area.
Accommodation is much cheaper as many gite owners are not counting on income this time of year. However, as many homes are stone, proper heating and insulation are a must. This is the second time that we have made arrangements through
www.yourfriendsinfrance.org
and certainly all their gites are modernized and in good shape.
Many sites are closed but many are open on reduced or restricted hours.
A number of restaurants close at this time of year. However, others have some special deals. Cinq Chateaux - a favourite of ours - offers a E17 menu.
The "soldes" are on here, too.
The markets are still open, though the number of vendors are reduced. Things seem to be much more relaxed with fewer cars and people around.
There are many events. We are attending a local oyster festival and the International Truffle Market is being held in Sarlat next weekend. The church in Le Bugue had a baroque music concert today and there are several operas, festivals, plays in the neighbouring communities.
Things are green, even in January.
I have some pictures on my blog
http://www.travelblog.org/Europe/Fra...og-362044.html
This is pretty basic but I wanted to record my first impressions. Maybe these will change....
The following are observations made after only a few days in this area.
Accommodation is much cheaper as many gite owners are not counting on income this time of year. However, as many homes are stone, proper heating and insulation are a must. This is the second time that we have made arrangements through
www.yourfriendsinfrance.org
and certainly all their gites are modernized and in good shape.
Many sites are closed but many are open on reduced or restricted hours.
A number of restaurants close at this time of year. However, others have some special deals. Cinq Chateaux - a favourite of ours - offers a E17 menu.
The "soldes" are on here, too.
The markets are still open, though the number of vendors are reduced. Things seem to be much more relaxed with fewer cars and people around.
There are many events. We are attending a local oyster festival and the International Truffle Market is being held in Sarlat next weekend. The church in Le Bugue had a baroque music concert today and there are several operas, festivals, plays in the neighbouring communities.
Things are green, even in January.
I have some pictures on my blog
http://www.travelblog.org/Europe/Fra...og-362044.html
This is pretty basic but I wanted to record my first impressions. Maybe these will change....
#2
Original Poster
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,725
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There are advantages and disadvantages of traveling to France during the winter. A lot of the tourist attractions are closed or on reduced hours. However you have the chance to share in some real life activities. In January and February almost every village has a community meal that is both a bargain and an opportunity to share in the life of the French. Looking over the Sarlat newspaper you could attend one of these each weekend in a different community. Each community has a Community Center called a Salle des Fetes.
We were a little intimidated but the owners of the house where we are staying had made reservations for us so we were committed. We could always duck out when no one was looking.
Immediately we were made to feel welcome. We were shown the table that we would share with about a dozen others and then led to the aperitifs. Bottles of port, whiskey and pastis were lined up with plates of nuts, chips and crackers. Interestingly hardly anyone took any of the snacks, but the bottles were busy. People came over to talk to us and they seemed to be aware that we were going to be attending. An English couple a few houses away took us under their wing and made sure that the introductions were complete.
After about a half an hour we sat at our tables and the repas began. Our glasses were filled up with a choice of a Reisling, a Cahors red or a rose and the bottles left on the table. We were given the choice of oysters on the half shell served with a shallot vinaigrette and black bread or a plate of charcuterie (ham, pate and two kinds of sausage). As was the case throughout the meal, seconds (or thirds) were offered.
This was followed by barbecued crepinettes which were delicious sausages of pork. The serving plate was finally left on the table for us to help ourselves. Every time our glasses were partly emptied someone made sure they were filled.
The main course was slices of roast pork and a cassoulet mixture of white beans and pork rind. The red Cahors wine went well with this.
The cheese course was brie and a goat cheese called Rocamadour. As is the French custom, a simple green salad is served with this course, already dressed with that light, lovely vinaigrette that, no matter how many times we try, we can't replicate. Chef Dave West of the Rolling Pin in Tampa where we take part in cooking classes, says that the French generally use a ratio of one-to-one oil to vinegar whereas we North Americans are used to a ratio of three-to-one oil to vinegar. In any case, it is simple and wonderful. The Cahors continued to hold its own with these cheeses.
The dessert table held huge bowls of rice pudding made with a dark rich cream, chocolate mousse, cakes and fruit tartes of many different varieties. While I held myself to two choices, one of our table companions finally brought the chocolate mousse bowl back to our table and did a good job of scraping it clean.
Coffee followed. Another custom I have become used to is having coffee after the meal rather than served with the dessert. I suspect that this is done at home in restaurants to more quickly turn the table. The price of this wonderful experience was €15.
We had been warned that we would be called on to perform - a joke, a story, a song. I was ready with my magic tricks but my children will be relieved to hear that it never happened.
There was music throughout the meal and people got up and danced at various times. How can they possibly whirl around so quickly, which is the French way of dancing dance ... and with all that wine. Sandra did join a Conga line at one point. The conversation was lively and animated. People moved from table to table to talk with others. When we left we realized we had been there for four hours. What a wonderful time! Highly recommended.
Photos to accompany this can be seen at
http://www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/robjame/
We were a little intimidated but the owners of the house where we are staying had made reservations for us so we were committed. We could always duck out when no one was looking.
Immediately we were made to feel welcome. We were shown the table that we would share with about a dozen others and then led to the aperitifs. Bottles of port, whiskey and pastis were lined up with plates of nuts, chips and crackers. Interestingly hardly anyone took any of the snacks, but the bottles were busy. People came over to talk to us and they seemed to be aware that we were going to be attending. An English couple a few houses away took us under their wing and made sure that the introductions were complete.
After about a half an hour we sat at our tables and the repas began. Our glasses were filled up with a choice of a Reisling, a Cahors red or a rose and the bottles left on the table. We were given the choice of oysters on the half shell served with a shallot vinaigrette and black bread or a plate of charcuterie (ham, pate and two kinds of sausage). As was the case throughout the meal, seconds (or thirds) were offered.
This was followed by barbecued crepinettes which were delicious sausages of pork. The serving plate was finally left on the table for us to help ourselves. Every time our glasses were partly emptied someone made sure they were filled.
The main course was slices of roast pork and a cassoulet mixture of white beans and pork rind. The red Cahors wine went well with this.
The cheese course was brie and a goat cheese called Rocamadour. As is the French custom, a simple green salad is served with this course, already dressed with that light, lovely vinaigrette that, no matter how many times we try, we can't replicate. Chef Dave West of the Rolling Pin in Tampa where we take part in cooking classes, says that the French generally use a ratio of one-to-one oil to vinegar whereas we North Americans are used to a ratio of three-to-one oil to vinegar. In any case, it is simple and wonderful. The Cahors continued to hold its own with these cheeses.
The dessert table held huge bowls of rice pudding made with a dark rich cream, chocolate mousse, cakes and fruit tartes of many different varieties. While I held myself to two choices, one of our table companions finally brought the chocolate mousse bowl back to our table and did a good job of scraping it clean.
Coffee followed. Another custom I have become used to is having coffee after the meal rather than served with the dessert. I suspect that this is done at home in restaurants to more quickly turn the table. The price of this wonderful experience was €15.
We had been warned that we would be called on to perform - a joke, a story, a song. I was ready with my magic tricks but my children will be relieved to hear that it never happened.
There was music throughout the meal and people got up and danced at various times. How can they possibly whirl around so quickly, which is the French way of dancing dance ... and with all that wine. Sandra did join a Conga line at one point. The conversation was lively and animated. People moved from table to table to talk with others. When we left we realized we had been there for four hours. What a wonderful time! Highly recommended.
Photos to accompany this can be seen at
http://www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/robjame/
#4

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 23,439
Likes: 0
<i>However you have the chance to share in some real life activities. In January and February almost every village has a community meal that is both a bargain and an opportunity to share in the life of the French. Looking over the Sarlat newspaper you could attend one of these each weekend in a different community. Each community has a Community Center called a Salle des Fetes.</i>
This is also true in the summer, often as a game meal used as a fund raiser by the local hunting club. One can also see posters for a "gypsy" or other "exotic" evening, which might mean that some live music is added (we went to such an event in Thenon, but the meal was not half as good as the one described here).
This is also true in the summer, often as a game meal used as a fund raiser by the local hunting club. One can also see posters for a "gypsy" or other "exotic" evening, which might mean that some live music is added (we went to such an event in Thenon, but the meal was not half as good as the one described here).
#6
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,707
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Glad you enjoyed the meal - it's one of the things I miss when we aren't chez nous in January - but since we're in Cape Town we aren't complaining (I should perhaps mention that robjame is staying in our house while we are enjoying sun and wine and wind, but no hurricane, in the south.)
This particular meal started as part of the 'Year 2000' celebrations in Carlux. Many of those were cancelled/blown away as the Great Tempete of 1999 actually happened on the 27th December, and took the power out for about a week, as well as blowing down roofs, trees, and even the stone cross on our corner. We always say we didn't have to worry about any Y2K bug with no power, water, phone...
Luckily the oyster meal had been planned for the second week in January, and so it went on - outside - as planned. the weather wasn't too cold, and the meal was such a success that it's been held ever since. Not tempting fate too much, though, it's now held inside.
Hope you continue to enjoy yourself.
This particular meal started as part of the 'Year 2000' celebrations in Carlux. Many of those were cancelled/blown away as the Great Tempete of 1999 actually happened on the 27th December, and took the power out for about a week, as well as blowing down roofs, trees, and even the stone cross on our corner. We always say we didn't have to worry about any Y2K bug with no power, water, phone...
Luckily the oyster meal had been planned for the second week in January, and so it went on - outside - as planned. the weather wasn't too cold, and the meal was such a success that it's been held ever since. Not tempting fate too much, though, it's now held inside.
Hope you continue to enjoy yourself.
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