Which of these Andalucia itineraries?
Sep 11th, 2023, 09:44 AM
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Which of these Andalucia itineraries?
Hi all,
I've been reading other threads for weeks and have finally narrowed down to a few itinerary choices for our 16 night trip in the first half of November. You've all been so helpful before, so here I am again.
A little about us...in our early 60's, love interesting architecture, food markets, eating 🙂, live music (of almost all types), history, natural beauty (especially mountains). We enjoy museums, castles, etc. but generally don't do more than one biggie in a day. In past I've emphasized how much we love just wandering neighborhoods and seeing what we discover, and while that's still true, some physical issues these days limit our total amount of walking in a day to about 4 miles, 5 on a good day. And, steep hills have become difficult, but like most people we love great views, so have adjusted to needing to take more buses, trains, taxis/ubers than we used to. We don't usually like to spend less than 3 nights/2 days anywhere, and in the past have often based just 2 places in even a 2 week trip. Which is part of what's making this so challenging, as there are so many places in Andalucía that sound wonderful!
We're flying into and out of Madrid and can't change that as we needed to use up a particular airline credit (nor can we change our timing, for a variety of reasons). However, we spent 6 days there just 1 1/2 yrs ago so this time are focused on Andalucía, where we've never been. We didn't get to Toledo tho', so you'll see that's on our agenda along with Andalucía. Tho' of course there's always more to do in Madrid, so if we decided we had enough of Toledo, we could always train in for a day.
From about a dozen ways of doing this, I think I've narrowed down to the following 3...which would you choose and why, or would you suggest something else completely ?
#1: 6 nights Sevilla (taking high speed train on arrival to Madrid, and in all 3 of these itinerary choices, in the Sevilla part we'd probably do a day trip to Arcos de la Frontera or Ronda); 3 nights Granada; 4 nights Cordoba with possible daytrip to Malaga; 3 nights Toledo.
#2: 5 nights Sevilla; 3 nights Malaga; 3 nights Granada; 3 nights Cordoba, 2 nights Toledo
#3: 3 nights Toledo, a week in Sevilla, and 6 nights in Cordoba with just a day trip to Granada and possibly Malaga
They all of course have pros and cons. One option I eliminated but will mention in case anyone disagrees with that, was 5 nights Sevilla, 4 in Cadiz, 4 in Cordoba with daytrip to Granada, and 3 in Toledo. From reading, I began thinking that maybe November's a bit late for Cadiz, but would be open to hearing otherwise. I also eliminated a couple options with more time in Malaga (city, not province) and just day tripping to Granada and maybe even Cordoba, mostly because as much as some time by the sea appeals to me, all the pictures I saw had lots of high-rise buildings in them, which was a turnoff for me. But then I saw a couple posts that said no, those high-rises are to the west of Malaga, not in it. That was a little confusing to me after viewing pics, so am open to hearing more about that as well. Tho' I tend to lean away from day tripping to major places like Granada and Cordoba, I'm also wondering if our physical limitations will make several nights in Granada especially, overly challenging. Am hoping that use of transport will make it not a problem, but I'm finding it hard to tell.
If you have favorite neighborhoods to stay in, in any of these places, I'd love to hear that too, or be sent by link to threads I may have missed. Thank you in advance for sharing any of your opinions and experiences!
I've been reading other threads for weeks and have finally narrowed down to a few itinerary choices for our 16 night trip in the first half of November. You've all been so helpful before, so here I am again.
A little about us...in our early 60's, love interesting architecture, food markets, eating 🙂, live music (of almost all types), history, natural beauty (especially mountains). We enjoy museums, castles, etc. but generally don't do more than one biggie in a day. In past I've emphasized how much we love just wandering neighborhoods and seeing what we discover, and while that's still true, some physical issues these days limit our total amount of walking in a day to about 4 miles, 5 on a good day. And, steep hills have become difficult, but like most people we love great views, so have adjusted to needing to take more buses, trains, taxis/ubers than we used to. We don't usually like to spend less than 3 nights/2 days anywhere, and in the past have often based just 2 places in even a 2 week trip. Which is part of what's making this so challenging, as there are so many places in Andalucía that sound wonderful!
We're flying into and out of Madrid and can't change that as we needed to use up a particular airline credit (nor can we change our timing, for a variety of reasons). However, we spent 6 days there just 1 1/2 yrs ago so this time are focused on Andalucía, where we've never been. We didn't get to Toledo tho', so you'll see that's on our agenda along with Andalucía. Tho' of course there's always more to do in Madrid, so if we decided we had enough of Toledo, we could always train in for a day.
From about a dozen ways of doing this, I think I've narrowed down to the following 3...which would you choose and why, or would you suggest something else completely ?
#1: 6 nights Sevilla (taking high speed train on arrival to Madrid, and in all 3 of these itinerary choices, in the Sevilla part we'd probably do a day trip to Arcos de la Frontera or Ronda); 3 nights Granada; 4 nights Cordoba with possible daytrip to Malaga; 3 nights Toledo.
#2: 5 nights Sevilla; 3 nights Malaga; 3 nights Granada; 3 nights Cordoba, 2 nights Toledo
#3: 3 nights Toledo, a week in Sevilla, and 6 nights in Cordoba with just a day trip to Granada and possibly Malaga
They all of course have pros and cons. One option I eliminated but will mention in case anyone disagrees with that, was 5 nights Sevilla, 4 in Cadiz, 4 in Cordoba with daytrip to Granada, and 3 in Toledo. From reading, I began thinking that maybe November's a bit late for Cadiz, but would be open to hearing otherwise. I also eliminated a couple options with more time in Malaga (city, not province) and just day tripping to Granada and maybe even Cordoba, mostly because as much as some time by the sea appeals to me, all the pictures I saw had lots of high-rise buildings in them, which was a turnoff for me. But then I saw a couple posts that said no, those high-rises are to the west of Malaga, not in it. That was a little confusing to me after viewing pics, so am open to hearing more about that as well. Tho' I tend to lean away from day tripping to major places like Granada and Cordoba, I'm also wondering if our physical limitations will make several nights in Granada especially, overly challenging. Am hoping that use of transport will make it not a problem, but I'm finding it hard to tell.
If you have favorite neighborhoods to stay in, in any of these places, I'd love to hear that too, or be sent by link to threads I may have missed. Thank you in advance for sharing any of your opinions and experiences!
Last edited by go_laura; Sep 11th, 2023 at 09:45 AM. Reason: to put spaces between paragraphs to make easier to read
Sep 11th, 2023, 10:06 AM
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I would not. day trip from Málaga to Granada as there is so much to see in Granada that I feel I need 3 nights to do the city justice. I also wouldn't day trip to Córdoba either from Sevilla or from Málaga for the same reason.
When I have done unavoidable day trips to Córdoba from Sevilla (several times in the past), although perfectly "doable", I feel that I miss a great deal, so now I spend 2-3 nights. No more day trips for me, but I have unlimited time. I was just in all of those cities in late February, early March and will return to Seville and Málaga for Holy Week, as I love them both.
This past February I did have 3 nights in Córdoba to accomplish the following-
a repeat visit to the Mezquita and the evening sound and light visit, Soul of Córdoba
other visits-
to the Julio Romero de Torres Museum, my favorite Cordoban portrait painter.
to the Palacio de Viana with its 14 connecting patios
to the ruins of Medina Azahara outside of town on the bus that departs at 11 am and returns at 2:15, back in town at 2:30
https://www.turismodecordoba.org/daily-bus-to-medina-azahara-cordoba
to the San Basilio quarter to visit the 4 patios open to the public outside of the May patio festival
the evening horse ballet at the Reales Caballerizas at 7:30 pm
general wandering outside of the Judería to visit some of the Baroque churches
the Alcázar gardens with tickets purchased ahead of time (there is a kiosk selling tickets across the street but the line was quite long on a Sunday)
Upon first glance I like your itinerary 2, but I may change my mind!
When I have done unavoidable day trips to Córdoba from Sevilla (several times in the past), although perfectly "doable", I feel that I miss a great deal, so now I spend 2-3 nights. No more day trips for me, but I have unlimited time. I was just in all of those cities in late February, early March and will return to Seville and Málaga for Holy Week, as I love them both.
This past February I did have 3 nights in Córdoba to accomplish the following-
a repeat visit to the Mezquita and the evening sound and light visit, Soul of Córdoba
other visits-
to the Julio Romero de Torres Museum, my favorite Cordoban portrait painter.
to the Palacio de Viana with its 14 connecting patios
to the ruins of Medina Azahara outside of town on the bus that departs at 11 am and returns at 2:15, back in town at 2:30
https://www.turismodecordoba.org/daily-bus-to-medina-azahara-cordoba
to the San Basilio quarter to visit the 4 patios open to the public outside of the May patio festival
the evening horse ballet at the Reales Caballerizas at 7:30 pm
general wandering outside of the Judería to visit some of the Baroque churches
the Alcázar gardens with tickets purchased ahead of time (there is a kiosk selling tickets across the street but the line was quite long on a Sunday)
Upon first glance I like your itinerary 2, but I may change my mind!
Last edited by Maribel; Sep 11th, 2023 at 10:36 AM.
Sep 11th, 2023, 11:20 AM
#3
Hi, go_laura ! I’m also in the #2 camp, though I might consider only 2 nights in Malaga and add the extra night to Toledo.
We did 2 nights in Toledo at the beginning of our trip in 2015 and wished I had another night. There is so much wonderful stuff to see, especially if you like Greco. And the Toledo cathedral is second to none.
Though for ambling and atmosphere, Malaga is certainly worthy of the time. It’s just that after Seville (my absolute favorite place), Cordoba and Malaga, it didn’t grab me quite as much. Still, a lovely place.
And an aside…I’m so sorry we never got a chance to meet up in Mexico
City, but as it turned out, we both got sick while we were there and were moving at half speed.
We did 2 nights in Toledo at the beginning of our trip in 2015 and wished I had another night. There is so much wonderful stuff to see, especially if you like Greco. And the Toledo cathedral is second to none.
Though for ambling and atmosphere, Malaga is certainly worthy of the time. It’s just that after Seville (my absolute favorite place), Cordoba and Malaga, it didn’t grab me quite as much. Still, a lovely place.
And an aside…I’m so sorry we never got a chance to meet up in Mexico
City, but as it turned out, we both got sick while we were there and were moving at half speed.
Last edited by progol; Sep 11th, 2023 at 11:37 AM.
Sep 11th, 2023, 12:27 PM
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Because you have plenty of time, I would not daytrip to Granada, Cordoba or Malaga. So I prefer your OPTION #2. I don't like daytripping to important historical and lovely places because I feel one really misses out on a lot by not being there during the evening to see the place illuminated and all the evening activities. For example, Cordoba is lovely at night with the Mezquita illuminated. We walked across the Roman Bridge at night (it might have been on a Saturday) and Spanish families were socializing on the bridge with their friends, children riding their bikes, people eating ice cream, etc. It was wonderful. And the same with Toledo: beautiful at night and families out enjoying themselves in the Plaza Zocodover.
Malaga's historic center is pedestrianized with marble streets, beautiful architecture, narrow lanes, and a vast array of restaurants, cafes, bars, shops, etc. There is a wonderful seaside promenade by the waterfront. Lots of art museums, including the Picasso. The Atarazanas Market where you can browse, shop, and eat. The Malaga Cathedral is fabulous; I enjoyed it as much as the other cathedrals we visited. The walk to the top of the Alcazaba is AMAZING! It may or may not be too steep for you. The meandering path takes you through lush greenery and exotic flowers to the restored palace-fortress at the top. You could try it and if it's too much, you can always turn around. You could take a taxi or bus to the top of the Castillo de Gibralfaro for spectacular views of the Mediterranean and the port.
Most of Malaga is flat. Cordoba is flat, too. Toledo and Granada are hilly but you can always take taxis, uber, etc. When you daytrip to places like Granada or Cordoba, you see the Alhambra or the Mezquita, but you don't get the essence of the city, which is important, too.
I think you have a good allocation of nights in Option #2. Whether or not to take a night away from Malaga to spend in Toledo is up to you. You should read about both places to see what interests you. There are probably more historical sites in Toledo. We had one night in Toledo, and I wish we had more, and 2 nights in Malaga, but I wish we had an extra night in Malaga, too. But I wish I had an extra night every place I have visited!
Malaga's historic center is pedestrianized with marble streets, beautiful architecture, narrow lanes, and a vast array of restaurants, cafes, bars, shops, etc. There is a wonderful seaside promenade by the waterfront. Lots of art museums, including the Picasso. The Atarazanas Market where you can browse, shop, and eat. The Malaga Cathedral is fabulous; I enjoyed it as much as the other cathedrals we visited. The walk to the top of the Alcazaba is AMAZING! It may or may not be too steep for you. The meandering path takes you through lush greenery and exotic flowers to the restored palace-fortress at the top. You could try it and if it's too much, you can always turn around. You could take a taxi or bus to the top of the Castillo de Gibralfaro for spectacular views of the Mediterranean and the port.
Most of Malaga is flat. Cordoba is flat, too. Toledo and Granada are hilly but you can always take taxis, uber, etc. When you daytrip to places like Granada or Cordoba, you see the Alhambra or the Mezquita, but you don't get the essence of the city, which is important, too.
I think you have a good allocation of nights in Option #2. Whether or not to take a night away from Malaga to spend in Toledo is up to you. You should read about both places to see what interests you. There are probably more historical sites in Toledo. We had one night in Toledo, and I wish we had more, and 2 nights in Malaga, but I wish we had an extra night in Malaga, too. But I wish I had an extra night every place I have visited!
Last edited by KarenWoo; Sep 11th, 2023 at 12:31 PM.
Sep 11th, 2023, 06:00 PM
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Wow, been having some real tech challenges this eve. Hopefully this posts! Thank you for your replies.
Maribel I was hoping you'd chime in 🙂. I still give you credit for my wonderful memories of Laguardia (and surrounding villages), as well as that scrumptious bakery in Madrid. I really appreciate those Córdoba suggestions. I know everyone's voting for option #2 so far, but as I sit with it (which I know I can't do for too long as I need to decide when we want Alhambra tix and also get on securing lodging everywhere!) I'm finding myself feeling very tired thinking of 5 different bases. So I'm now leaning to #1 which would be 1 less base (tho still more than usual for us!), and would put us in Córdoba for 4 nights. We might just have to leave Málaga for another time, as what you say about not just daytripping to either Granada or Córdoba, makes sense to me.
progol thank you for validating Toledo as it's own destination since so many people seem to just daytrip it from Madrid. As I said above, I'm now finding myself leaning to #1, which would give us 3 nights in Toledo. We might reverse order tho, and do Toledo first rather than last, as long as I'd still be able to make it work to get us to the airport from Córdoba on departure day. Also, I too am sorry we didn't get to meet up in Mexico City. Maybe it was for best all the way around tho', as I received some very sad news on our way from Puebla to there, and wouldn't have been feeling very social. Hopefully we'll meet somewhere else, one of these days!
KarenWoo I love your descriptions of your time in the different cities, and it might even make me re-think my current leaning (see above). Then again, it makes a good case for another trip someday, perhaps when we can travel in May or September, to just Málaga and Cádiz!
Do you all (and anyone else) have thoughts of particular neighborhoods to book lodging in, in Toledo, Sevilla, Granada, Córdoba? As 1st timers to all of them, we want to be central, but be able to sleep at night 🙂 (and I'm a light sleeper). And I always welcome thoughts about favorite markets!
Maribel I was hoping you'd chime in 🙂. I still give you credit for my wonderful memories of Laguardia (and surrounding villages), as well as that scrumptious bakery in Madrid. I really appreciate those Córdoba suggestions. I know everyone's voting for option #2 so far, but as I sit with it (which I know I can't do for too long as I need to decide when we want Alhambra tix and also get on securing lodging everywhere!) I'm finding myself feeling very tired thinking of 5 different bases. So I'm now leaning to #1 which would be 1 less base (tho still more than usual for us!), and would put us in Córdoba for 4 nights. We might just have to leave Málaga for another time, as what you say about not just daytripping to either Granada or Córdoba, makes sense to me.
progol thank you for validating Toledo as it's own destination since so many people seem to just daytrip it from Madrid. As I said above, I'm now finding myself leaning to #1, which would give us 3 nights in Toledo. We might reverse order tho, and do Toledo first rather than last, as long as I'd still be able to make it work to get us to the airport from Córdoba on departure day. Also, I too am sorry we didn't get to meet up in Mexico City. Maybe it was for best all the way around tho', as I received some very sad news on our way from Puebla to there, and wouldn't have been feeling very social. Hopefully we'll meet somewhere else, one of these days!
KarenWoo I love your descriptions of your time in the different cities, and it might even make me re-think my current leaning (see above). Then again, it makes a good case for another trip someday, perhaps when we can travel in May or September, to just Málaga and Cádiz!
Do you all (and anyone else) have thoughts of particular neighborhoods to book lodging in, in Toledo, Sevilla, Granada, Córdoba? As 1st timers to all of them, we want to be central, but be able to sleep at night 🙂 (and I'm a light sleeper). And I always welcome thoughts about favorite markets!
Sep 11th, 2023, 07:18 PM
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Toledo is definitely worth three nights, that's what I spent there. The most amazing cathedral ever, plus lots more. I highly recommend La Posada de Manolo, Calle de Sixto Ramon Parro 8. Wonderful example of a15th C building updated to be comfortable while keeping all the character of the original building. It's literally around the corner from the cathedral but not noisy. No elevator, if that's a concern, but I asked for the room with the least amount of steps and was given a room on the ground floor. Wonderful modern bathroom. In 2019, it was only 62.73 Euro for a single room. 5 Euro extra for breakfast, well worth it for their buffet, with outdoor seating so close to the cathedral that you feel you could touch it! (34 steps to get there.)
Also agree about doing more than a day trip to Cordoba. I did two nights there and it definitely was not too much.
Also agree about doing more than a day trip to Cordoba. I did two nights there and it definitely was not too much.
Last edited by SusanP; Sep 11th, 2023 at 07:22 PM.
Sep 11th, 2023, 10:15 PM
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Hi Laura,
I thought about you yesterday as we were sitting in Laguardia dining on chuletillas al sarmiento! We're up here in La Rioja for 6 days doing some touring around during the harvest, and it's just beautiful.
What KarenWood has told you about Córdoba is exactly the reason I chose now not to day trip. Now there are nice things to do at night....stroll across the Roman bridge illuminated at night, attend a horse ballet, attend the evening light and sound show in the Mezquita, take in a treatment at a hammam, etc. Ditto to Toledo without the hordes of day trippers from Madrid. Toledo takes on a sort of mystical feel at night and by day is chock a block with wonderful art.....like taking an intensive art history course.
I would not try to make it to Barajas airport from Córdoba on departure day, even with an afternoon flight. There are simply too many factors that could go wrong (the recent DANA for example, that cut off train traffic between Madrid and the south), even taking the first train that arrives at Atocha at 9:06.
More thoughts later regarding neighborhoods, food and markets...
I thought about you yesterday as we were sitting in Laguardia dining on chuletillas al sarmiento! We're up here in La Rioja for 6 days doing some touring around during the harvest, and it's just beautiful.
What KarenWood has told you about Córdoba is exactly the reason I chose now not to day trip. Now there are nice things to do at night....stroll across the Roman bridge illuminated at night, attend a horse ballet, attend the evening light and sound show in the Mezquita, take in a treatment at a hammam, etc. Ditto to Toledo without the hordes of day trippers from Madrid. Toledo takes on a sort of mystical feel at night and by day is chock a block with wonderful art.....like taking an intensive art history course.
I would not try to make it to Barajas airport from Córdoba on departure day, even with an afternoon flight. There are simply too many factors that could go wrong (the recent DANA for example, that cut off train traffic between Madrid and the south), even taking the first train that arrives at Atocha at 9:06.
More thoughts later regarding neighborhoods, food and markets...
Last edited by Maribel; Sep 11th, 2023 at 10:38 PM.
Sep 12th, 2023, 05:50 AM
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In Cordoba we stayed at Las Casas de le Juderia located in the Juderia and a few minutes walk from the Mezquita and Alcazar. This hotel consists of 5 homes attached together with courtyards. We had a spacious room with a good sized marble bathroom. It was our favorite hotel. On the street level there is a pretty courtyard where the hotel provided an honor bar. We were traveling with friends and met them there every night for a drink before heading out to dinner. It’s in a quiet location, too. We had dinner our first night at Regadera on the river bank. Need to make reservations. One of the best meals of our trip. On our second night we had dinner at the Mercado Victoria. There are many food stalls with tables for dining.
In Seville we stayed at Apartamentos Suites Santa Cruz which we liked. However, Barrio Santa Cruz is a very crowded neighborhood. We had to push our way past tour groups. Maribel can give better suggestions of where to stay if you want something quieter. We loved the Mercado Barranca where we had dinner one night and lunch another day. Had dinner twice at La Azotea at Calle Mateos Gaga. The food is awesome!
In Granada we stayed at the bottom of the Albayzin on Carrera del Darro. Quiet location and very convenient. Our hotel has closed permanently, unfortunately. But you could check out this area.
In Toledo we stayed at Abad Toledo located at the bottom of the old town hill located a block inside the Bisagra Gate. We liked it for one night, and it was quiet, but for 3 nights I think you will be happier more centrally located. The place and location that Susan suggests sounds like a better choice.
In Seville we stayed at Apartamentos Suites Santa Cruz which we liked. However, Barrio Santa Cruz is a very crowded neighborhood. We had to push our way past tour groups. Maribel can give better suggestions of where to stay if you want something quieter. We loved the Mercado Barranca where we had dinner one night and lunch another day. Had dinner twice at La Azotea at Calle Mateos Gaga. The food is awesome!
In Granada we stayed at the bottom of the Albayzin on Carrera del Darro. Quiet location and very convenient. Our hotel has closed permanently, unfortunately. But you could check out this area.
In Toledo we stayed at Abad Toledo located at the bottom of the old town hill located a block inside the Bisagra Gate. We liked it for one night, and it was quiet, but for 3 nights I think you will be happier more centrally located. The place and location that Susan suggests sounds like a better choice.
Sep 12th, 2023, 06:31 AM
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I also like number 2. In Sevilla, we stayed at the Hotel Eurostars Regina and loved the nearby tapas restaurant Eslava which was one of our favorite restaurants of our whole trip. We like the neighborhood because it is removed from the more heavily touristed areas. There is a bus that runs along the river in a circular route that can take you near most areas in the city core. Eslava does rent out a couple of nice apartments above the restaurant as well.
https://www.eurostarshotels.co.uk/eu...TAxOC42MC4wLjA.
http://www.espacioeslava.com/
https://www.eurostarshotels.co.uk/eu...TAxOC42MC4wLjA.
http://www.espacioeslava.com/
Sep 12th, 2023, 07:17 AM
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jpie,
Just so that you´ll know....the Eslava has changed hands.
I rented an apartment, Espacio Eslava, above the restaurant for 9 nights in March and was there to say goodbye to Sr. Tovar, as he decided to retire. The restaurant and apartments now belong to the Ovejas Negras group. They have promised to keep the menu, the personal and the same high quality but I don´t know if they've kept the promise but will find out in March, as we're returning to the same apartment for 5 days during Holy Week.
Our contact is Nieves Carrillo Díaz, who runs the apartments.
They're very reasonably priced, even for Holy Week, and more convenient for walking even than the Eurostars Regina. I walked everywhere, never needing the bus or a taxi.
Laura,
These Espacio Eslava apartments are very well equipped, with high end appliances, a full kitchen, good bath with rain shower and quiet bedroom facing the rear with comfortable beds and nice linens.
Of all the apartments I rented during my 5 weeks in the south, this was the one I liked the best. There were milk, water and coffee capsules provided for me and maid service with change of linens every 3 days. The apartments are close to the Alameda de Hércules where I dined often at Disparate, one of the city's best small plates restaurants, plus La Azotea and La Tienda de Azotea are close by. KarenWoo dined at their sister restaurant in the Barrio de Santa Cruz on Mateos Gago, "restaurant row". Very good quality for the price.
Another area where I like to stay is the Arenal quarter, close to the Cathedral and Alcázar without being in the tourist tsunami that the Barrio de Santa Cruz has become (there are now more tourist beds in Santa Cruz than there are Sevilla residents). Here you have great tapas bars (Casa Morales, Bodeguita Romero, Bodeguita A. Romero, Petit Comité, Bodeguita Casablanca, La Brunilda, la Barra de Inchausti), and the Calle Castelar has the hotels Casas de El Arenal (the sister hotel to Casas de la Judería in Córdoba, where we have stayed) and the Vincci Rábida. There´s a new Vinnci Molviedro there on a quiet square. Plus, there are many apartments offered by Genteel Homes.
As for markets, I love to wander through the Mercado de Triana across the Guadalquivir.
In Toledo I like the moderately priced 2 star Santa Isabel in the center. I believe progol stayed there. There´s also the San Juan de los Reyes, Pintor el Greco and the Boutique Adolfo next to the city's main square the Plaza Zocodovar. I prefer to stay in the center rather than below the Puerta de Bisagra gate, where I've stayed before at the El Cardenal. It´s just handier for touring and no steep uphill climb.
As for Córdoba, if you need an apartment, I like the La Ermita Suites.
https://laermitasuites.com
We've stayed at the Casas de la Judería, as KarenWood describes.
And for indoor markets, there´s the Mercado de la Victoria in the park.
Just so that you´ll know....the Eslava has changed hands.
I rented an apartment, Espacio Eslava, above the restaurant for 9 nights in March and was there to say goodbye to Sr. Tovar, as he decided to retire. The restaurant and apartments now belong to the Ovejas Negras group. They have promised to keep the menu, the personal and the same high quality but I don´t know if they've kept the promise but will find out in March, as we're returning to the same apartment for 5 days during Holy Week.
Our contact is Nieves Carrillo Díaz, who runs the apartments.
They're very reasonably priced, even for Holy Week, and more convenient for walking even than the Eurostars Regina. I walked everywhere, never needing the bus or a taxi.
Laura,
These Espacio Eslava apartments are very well equipped, with high end appliances, a full kitchen, good bath with rain shower and quiet bedroom facing the rear with comfortable beds and nice linens.
Of all the apartments I rented during my 5 weeks in the south, this was the one I liked the best. There were milk, water and coffee capsules provided for me and maid service with change of linens every 3 days. The apartments are close to the Alameda de Hércules where I dined often at Disparate, one of the city's best small plates restaurants, plus La Azotea and La Tienda de Azotea are close by. KarenWoo dined at their sister restaurant in the Barrio de Santa Cruz on Mateos Gago, "restaurant row". Very good quality for the price.
Another area where I like to stay is the Arenal quarter, close to the Cathedral and Alcázar without being in the tourist tsunami that the Barrio de Santa Cruz has become (there are now more tourist beds in Santa Cruz than there are Sevilla residents). Here you have great tapas bars (Casa Morales, Bodeguita Romero, Bodeguita A. Romero, Petit Comité, Bodeguita Casablanca, La Brunilda, la Barra de Inchausti), and the Calle Castelar has the hotels Casas de El Arenal (the sister hotel to Casas de la Judería in Córdoba, where we have stayed) and the Vincci Rábida. There´s a new Vinnci Molviedro there on a quiet square. Plus, there are many apartments offered by Genteel Homes.
As for markets, I love to wander through the Mercado de Triana across the Guadalquivir.
In Toledo I like the moderately priced 2 star Santa Isabel in the center. I believe progol stayed there. There´s also the San Juan de los Reyes, Pintor el Greco and the Boutique Adolfo next to the city's main square the Plaza Zocodovar. I prefer to stay in the center rather than below the Puerta de Bisagra gate, where I've stayed before at the El Cardenal. It´s just handier for touring and no steep uphill climb.
As for Córdoba, if you need an apartment, I like the La Ermita Suites.
https://laermitasuites.com
We've stayed at the Casas de la Judería, as KarenWood describes.
And for indoor markets, there´s the Mercado de la Victoria in the park.
Last edited by Maribel; Sep 12th, 2023 at 07:22 AM.
Sep 12th, 2023, 07:25 AM
#11
Here's where we stayed on our trip in 2015 (this from my trip report. And yes, I spelled the country's name in French and not in Spanish!):
Espagne, Olé! Ancient to modern, through Andalucia, Toledo and Madrid
Toledo – 2 nights at the Santa Isabel – small, modest hotel in central location - Highly recommend
Seville – 4 nights at the Veoapartment Pajaritos 2 – great location, mixed feelings about the apartment
Cordoba – 3 nights at an AirBnB apt, Atico Terraza Mezquita Cordoba – wonderful apt & great host.
Granada – 3 nights at the Hotel Ladron de Agua – excellent hotel, great location –recommend
Ronda – 2 nights - Hotel Montelirio – Beautiful hotel, fabulous location, excellent staff – highly recommend
Malaga – 2 nights – Don Curro – Modest business-style hotel in great location – recommend
Madrid – 4 nights – at an AirbnB apt, Prado Museum Air Apt Madrid – Great location, sweet, modest apt and truly lovely host. Highly recommend
While we weren't in love with our apartment in Seville, the location was great. Easy walk everywhere, wonderful coffee place nearby, Bar Estrella Tapas was a charming place for meals and we ate there several times during our stay.
Espagne, Olé! Ancient to modern, through Andalucia, Toledo and Madrid
Toledo – 2 nights at the Santa Isabel – small, modest hotel in central location - Highly recommend
Seville – 4 nights at the Veoapartment Pajaritos 2 – great location, mixed feelings about the apartment
Cordoba – 3 nights at an AirBnB apt, Atico Terraza Mezquita Cordoba – wonderful apt & great host.
Granada – 3 nights at the Hotel Ladron de Agua – excellent hotel, great location –recommend
Ronda – 2 nights - Hotel Montelirio – Beautiful hotel, fabulous location, excellent staff – highly recommend
Malaga – 2 nights – Don Curro – Modest business-style hotel in great location – recommend
Madrid – 4 nights – at an AirbnB apt, Prado Museum Air Apt Madrid – Great location, sweet, modest apt and truly lovely host. Highly recommend
While we weren't in love with our apartment in Seville, the location was great. Easy walk everywhere, wonderful coffee place nearby, Bar Estrella Tapas was a charming place for meals and we ate there several times during our stay.
Sep 12th, 2023, 07:36 AM
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Yes, I thought progol had stayed at the Santa Isabel!
In Granada, there are several hotels on the Carrera del Darro but the Ladrón de Agua has now sadly closed.
Others on or down an alley from the Carrera del Darro include the Casa 1800, a sister to the Casa 1800 in Sevilla, the Capitel Nazarí, the Shine, the Casa Morisca and the Palacio de Mariana Pineda.
Just a note, the Carrera del Darro running along the river is now on the direct route of the segways, the choo choo train, the red minibus and the pedestrian route to the climb up to the Albaicín, so the walk can get crowded, if that matters. The Casa 1800 and the Capitel Nazarí are tucked away on little squares off this street.
The Anacapri is a more modest, less expensive option and is popular with Rick Steves readers.
There´s also the Gar Anat on a quiet square in the center. And Granada has plenty of tourist apartments.
In Ronda we now stay at the sweet and small Hotel Aire de Ronda, with a wonderful hostess and top flight chef. She's Basque.
We've also stayed at the Parador in room 219 with double balconies, the Catalonia Reina Victoria (the town's old Grande Dame) and the Palacio San Gabriel in the ancient Arab quarter.
The Don Miguel has seen better days, imo. It would be my very last choice.
In Málaga we've happily stayed at the AC Málaga Palacio in a superior room with balcony facing the water and the Room Mate Larios on the pedestrian Calle Larios and also the more moderately priced Madeinterranea Suites.
https://madeinterranea.es
Don Curro is a more modest hotel but still smack dab in the center of the city on a pedestrian street and is well priced.
The Atarazanas market in Málaga is superb. Just don´t go on Monday when the fishmongers aren't there. And there are bars at the very front of the market where one can inexpensively nosh and also plenty of seating on the outdoor terrace, but it gets very crowded at lunch time.
For great churros y chocolate-
In Sevilla, Bar El Comercio, a classic, they sell them all day long
In Ronda, Churrería Alba
In Málaga, Casa Aranda, another classic
In Granada, Churrería Alhambra on the Plaza Bib Rambla
For tapas in Granada, which are complimentary with each drink order
Taberna la Tana, fabulous wine selection, Bourdain filmed here
St Germain
Bodegas la Castañeda, a classic, in all the guides
Los Diamantes, with 4 locations, we prefer the smaller one at the end of Rosario, "restaurant row", for fried fish and seafood dishes
The bars of Cunini and Oliver (Bourdain also filmed here) on the Plaza de la Pescadería for seafood tapas
For tapas in Córdoba-
Casa Pepe de la Judería and El Caballo Rojo both, in the Jewish Quarter
Taberna San Miguel, Casa El Piso, outside the souk on the Plaza San Miguel, hugely atmospheric, another classic
Garum 2.1 Bistronomic Tapas Bar, slightly outside the Jewish quarter, but an easy walk, creative and the very best salmorejo in town.
Córdoban specialties-
salmorejo, a thick gazpacho topped with Iberian ham slivers
ajoblanco, a cold almond soup
fried eggplant with honey (berenjenas con miel)
ox tail stew (rabo de toro)
flamenquin, a deep fried roll with ham slices wrapped in pieces of pork loin and cheese
In Granada, there are several hotels on the Carrera del Darro but the Ladrón de Agua has now sadly closed.
Others on or down an alley from the Carrera del Darro include the Casa 1800, a sister to the Casa 1800 in Sevilla, the Capitel Nazarí, the Shine, the Casa Morisca and the Palacio de Mariana Pineda.
Just a note, the Carrera del Darro running along the river is now on the direct route of the segways, the choo choo train, the red minibus and the pedestrian route to the climb up to the Albaicín, so the walk can get crowded, if that matters. The Casa 1800 and the Capitel Nazarí are tucked away on little squares off this street.
The Anacapri is a more modest, less expensive option and is popular with Rick Steves readers.
There´s also the Gar Anat on a quiet square in the center. And Granada has plenty of tourist apartments.
In Ronda we now stay at the sweet and small Hotel Aire de Ronda, with a wonderful hostess and top flight chef. She's Basque.
We've also stayed at the Parador in room 219 with double balconies, the Catalonia Reina Victoria (the town's old Grande Dame) and the Palacio San Gabriel in the ancient Arab quarter.
The Don Miguel has seen better days, imo. It would be my very last choice.
In Málaga we've happily stayed at the AC Málaga Palacio in a superior room with balcony facing the water and the Room Mate Larios on the pedestrian Calle Larios and also the more moderately priced Madeinterranea Suites.
https://madeinterranea.es
Don Curro is a more modest hotel but still smack dab in the center of the city on a pedestrian street and is well priced.
The Atarazanas market in Málaga is superb. Just don´t go on Monday when the fishmongers aren't there. And there are bars at the very front of the market where one can inexpensively nosh and also plenty of seating on the outdoor terrace, but it gets very crowded at lunch time.
For great churros y chocolate-
In Sevilla, Bar El Comercio, a classic, they sell them all day long
In Ronda, Churrería Alba
In Málaga, Casa Aranda, another classic
In Granada, Churrería Alhambra on the Plaza Bib Rambla
For tapas in Granada, which are complimentary with each drink order
Taberna la Tana, fabulous wine selection, Bourdain filmed here
St Germain
Bodegas la Castañeda, a classic, in all the guides
Los Diamantes, with 4 locations, we prefer the smaller one at the end of Rosario, "restaurant row", for fried fish and seafood dishes
The bars of Cunini and Oliver (Bourdain also filmed here) on the Plaza de la Pescadería for seafood tapas
For tapas in Córdoba-
Casa Pepe de la Judería and El Caballo Rojo both, in the Jewish Quarter
Taberna San Miguel, Casa El Piso, outside the souk on the Plaza San Miguel, hugely atmospheric, another classic
Garum 2.1 Bistronomic Tapas Bar, slightly outside the Jewish quarter, but an easy walk, creative and the very best salmorejo in town.
Córdoban specialties-
salmorejo, a thick gazpacho topped with Iberian ham slivers
ajoblanco, a cold almond soup
fried eggplant with honey (berenjenas con miel)
ox tail stew (rabo de toro)
flamenquin, a deep fried roll with ham slices wrapped in pieces of pork loin and cheese
Last edited by Maribel; Sep 12th, 2023 at 08:26 AM.
Sep 12th, 2023, 08:13 AM
#14
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Wow, what a wealth of information! Thank you all for the detailed recs and for helping me get more excited...I'm running here and there righ tnow but will return later with any follow up thoughts or q's.
Sep 12th, 2023, 10:06 AM
#15
Maribel,
Yes, we stayed at the Santa Isabel thanks to your recommendation! And we were very happy with it!
And yes, the Bar El Commercio was just around the corner from where we stayed. We loved it!
Fabulous!
Bar El Comercio
Yes, we stayed at the Santa Isabel thanks to your recommendation! And we were very happy with it!
And yes, the Bar El Commercio was just around the corner from where we stayed. We loved it!
Fabulous!
Bar El Comercio
Sep 13th, 2023, 06:14 AM
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Maribel-thanks for the update on Eslava. Unfortunately we haven't made it back to Sevilla in a number of years now but I will be interested in your updates there. I agree that walking is better from Eslava than from Eurostars Regina. We stayed there because they have a parking garage which, as I recall, the OP won't need. Also, just for others reading this thread, the Regina Eurostars have a few very nice "duplex rooms" with 2 rooms connected by an interior staircase which was great for us since my DH and I were travelling with my sister, so it substantially lowered the daily rate over hotels where we had to rent 2 hotel rooms. So a great set up for folks who need it. the downstairs had two twin beds and the upper room a queen or king sized bed.
Sep 13th, 2023, 06:34 AM
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I remember that you stayed at the Eurostars because of the garage and free parking and the nice duplex rooms. Makes perfect sense with an automobile.
I'll let folks know what I think about Espacio Eslava under the umbrella of the Ovejas Negras group.
I'll let folks know what I think about Espacio Eslava under the umbrella of the Ovejas Negras group.
Sep 14th, 2023, 06:22 AM
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Look forward to your update Maribel. Also, for others interested in the Eurostar Regina, the garage is actually a paid garage but as I recall, if you book on their website directly, they have room packages that include "free" parking that are better deals than if you book on one of the travel sites like booking.
