Charming authentic towns (not touristy). No Sirmione for us! (essential)
Mountain access (Brenta Dolomites or reasonable access to Trentino and Dolomites) for serious hikers. (essential)
Swimming and other lake based activities for kids (essential).
This is for a 50th anniversary family gathering for two weeks in June or July 2006. We are a multi-aged group 6-73 of 15 people.

I do not understand. You describe Lago Garda but ask for which lake. I guess stay at the north end of Garda.

This is a reply to Bobthenavigator. I understand what you are saying. I am describing Lake Garda. My question is whether the other lakes (for example Lake Como) would have equivalent mountain access to serious hiking mountains with rifugios or via ferrata.

I do not want to be in a place which is too touristy. We spent a month last summer on the hill above Salorno (in the Adige Valley). There were no tourists there save a few Germans every few days. The town we were in (Pochi) was charming and authentic as was Salorno and the surroundings.

I am looking for a "real" town, not a crowded tourist mecca (like Cortina, Castelroth etc). I realize that the lakes are too popular to avoid tourism altogether, but I don't want to be in a place that is all tourism. I have found some listings for Villas in Bergamo on Lake Como. They sound lovely, but I am wondering whether the environment would be what we are seeking. Can we get to the mountains from there?

We were in Riva del Garda in April and found it to be exactly what you wanted. Hiking, biking, plenty for the kids up and down the lake, gorgeous scenery AND the Dolomites are but an hour or so away. BUT that wasn't June or July with the summer tourism. The tourist office in Garda could send you LOADS of booklets and info on the area.
We were also in Como , Bellagio etc one year, also shoulder season.It is gorgeous and wonderful , but perhaps seems a little more formal and not quite as much for family activities.

To Rachelp: FYI, Bergamo is not "on" Lake Como although there may be rental villas within the Bergamo postal area that are close to the water. If you choose Bergamo, make sure you understand exactly where the rental(s) are located in relation to the lake.

But if you're looking to avoid the popular tourist areas, the southern legs of Lake Como are probably not the place to go. Towns on Lake Como north of Menaggio/Bellaggio/Varenna are much less popular.

Now I understand. My first choice for you would be the northern part of Lago Maggiore near Cannero Riviera. You still get the Lago Maggiore ferry service to explore the lake, and you are near Locarno where you can take the Centovalli scenic train trip. Also, there is a nice village on the NW shore of Como named Domaso that is a good base for hiking. Both are off the path but still easy access to the main tourist areas. Good luck !

In my 'library', I have a map of Northern Italy from Touring Club Italiano (scale 1:400,000). This map shows various refugios around the various lakes.

There probably is a map or website more to the point but I don't what it is.

Rachel - The main lake in the Brenta Dolomites is Molveno.

Another attractive one is Alleghe.
Or how about my favourite one - Lake Braies (- starting point for the 'Via Ferrata' No 1).

If you're into Vie Ferrate hikes you might find this link useful - just choose your mountain group

http://www.dolomiti.org/dengl/ed/ferrate/index.html

Hope this helps ...

Steve