Which area of Dordogne to rent in?
#21

Joined: Jan 2003
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Limeuil is not what I'd call a "tiny hamlet." It's a very well-touristed perched village overlooking the confluence of the Vézère and Dordogne rivers - there's a lovely "elbow bridge" there. It's got quite a few shops and cafés and artisans' ateliers, but it certainly isn't a bustling town like Le Bugue.
I love Le Bugue for what it is - a thriving, practical market town, not a tourist destination but rather a place that exists to serve its own community. That's not to say it doesn't attract tourists - you can barely move on market day in mid-summer, but in October you will get to see it at one of the loveliest, most "authentic" times of year. Not to mention it will be cèpe season - yum!
Manaurie and Alles-sur-Dordogne are pretty much specs on the map. If you want to be walking distance to a place with some commerce, those probaby would be poor choices.
I love Le Bugue for what it is - a thriving, practical market town, not a tourist destination but rather a place that exists to serve its own community. That's not to say it doesn't attract tourists - you can barely move on market day in mid-summer, but in October you will get to see it at one of the loveliest, most "authentic" times of year. Not to mention it will be cèpe season - yum!
Manaurie and Alles-sur-Dordogne are pretty much specs on the map. If you want to be walking distance to a place with some commerce, those probaby would be poor choices.
#22
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St Cirq, I apoligize for making the remark about Limeuil without having done any research beforehand. I thought I had read that it was designated one of Les Beaux Villages and for some reason I thought all those village were tiny. I think some guidebook reading is in order for me in the next few days so I can familiarize myself before posting so many questions! I have both Cadogan and Rough Guides from the very breif trip I took to the area a few years ago. Any comments here on Urval, Siorac and Alles sur Dordogne? I want to have several options to present to my friends and to an agency in case the first choice is not open.
By the way, one place I recall loving on that trip was lunch at a walnut oil mill located someplace near Martel. Can anyone provide the name of the place and let me know if it is still operating? There was a set lunch, choice of lamb or duck confit, served in a large barn-type building; after lunch we were invited to see the actual pressing of the nuts and were able to buy their walnut oil. Of course I bought several bottles, some of which remain in my fridge three years later..sure they are not good buy now.
By the way, one place I recall loving on that trip was lunch at a walnut oil mill located someplace near Martel. Can anyone provide the name of the place and let me know if it is still operating? There was a set lunch, choice of lamb or duck confit, served in a large barn-type building; after lunch we were invited to see the actual pressing of the nuts and were able to buy their walnut oil. Of course I bought several bottles, some of which remain in my fridge three years later..sure they are not good buy now.
#23
Joined: Nov 2004
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Those are all OK locations, but still not quite as central as the Le Bugue rental. Do you have the #329 Michelin map? Also, get the Michelin Green Guide for the Dordogne. I have hundreds of travel books about France (really), and the Michelin guide is the only one I take with me when I travel there. Sometimes I'll copy a few pages from the Cadogan Guide - my second favorite.
Stu Dudley
Stu Dudley
#24

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As mentioned, Alles-sur-Dordogne is a spec on the map, near Limeuil. I don't believe it has any commerce at all. It does have a nice romanesque chapel. There's a big, popular stable there where you can rent horses and ride around the area.
Siorac is south of the Dordogne river, across from St-Cyprien essentially. It's not exactly a hill town - more like a mound town. But it's attractive and has the usual complement of commercial establishments, including a B&B cum bar cum restaurant owned by a British expat couple. There's a smallish Intermarché on the main road below the village.
Urval I don't know at all - at least I don't think I do. Where is it?
I don't know of a walnut mill near Martel, but there's a well-known one called Moulin de la Tour in Ste-Nathalène, just outside Sarlat.
Siorac is south of the Dordogne river, across from St-Cyprien essentially. It's not exactly a hill town - more like a mound town. But it's attractive and has the usual complement of commercial establishments, including a B&B cum bar cum restaurant owned by a British expat couple. There's a smallish Intermarché on the main road below the village.
Urval I don't know at all - at least I don't think I do. Where is it?
I don't know of a walnut mill near Martel, but there's a well-known one called Moulin de la Tour in Ste-Nathalène, just outside Sarlat.
#25
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Thanks again to both of you. Urval is 3km from Siorac and 9km from St. Cyprien. I checked the Cadogan guide and found the name of the walnut oil mil: Ferme Auberge Moulin a Huile de Noix "at Les Landes along the St. Cere road." This place was a real treat for lunch and to see the oil being pressed. Oddly enough, my Michelin map (yellow cover) is #235 Midi-Pyrenees which covers the Dordogne region. I do not see the #329 listed on the back cover of my map within the outline of the country..could they have changed the numbers? All the numbers on my map's back cover are three-digit numbers beginning with 2. So I seem to have narrowed down the house choices with your help: the Le Bugue house sounds loke a great location except that Judy mentioned that two of the rooms are not so desirable. Perhaps we can agree to switch mid-week! The house outside Siorac and the one in Limeuil sound like the second and third choices. You have all been so helpful; if you have any restaurant tips feel free to post! As I said, I spent three days in Sarlat and ate in the town except for the walnut oil lunch and a lunch at Le Centenaire after a visit to the caves. The place was too formal for our tastes, however, although the food was excellent.
#27
Joined: Nov 2004
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Get a more current map of the Dordogne. The yellow maps were dis-continued several years ago. The newer maps are the 300 series - 329 for the Dordogne. The yellow maps are on a scale of 1/200,000, while most of the 300 series maps are 1/150,000 (except the 329 map which is 1/175,000)
The 300 series maps have a city index, which is nice when trying to locate a specific village - like you are trying to do.
Do you have my 20+ page itinerary for the Dordogne? It includes a restaurant write-up, although I have not yet updated it to reflect our 4 weeks there this past Sept. E-mail me if you want a copy. [email protected]
Stu Dudley
The 300 series maps have a city index, which is nice when trying to locate a specific village - like you are trying to do.
Do you have my 20+ page itinerary for the Dordogne? It includes a restaurant write-up, although I have not yet updated it to reflect our 4 weeks there this past Sept. E-mail me if you want a copy. [email protected]
Stu Dudley
#28
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Many thanks, Stu. You are unusually helpful as usual. I will e-mail you soon with a request for your itinerary. Thanks so much. I will meet with my friends this weekend to go over the houses we have liked so far so I will surely post more questions after that.
#29
Joined: Jan 2006
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I have been searching for accomm in the Dordogne for some time for second lasst week in august and have finally landed one I think! It is about 500 metres from the town of Le Bugue and just wanted to know your opinion of that as a first place to go to visit the area - we will have it for a week. I have nearly gone crazy with all the investigations!!!
There have been mixed messages about Le Bugue on here - ST Cirq and Stu Dudley I have been following some past notes of yours and they have been helpful.
we are two adults and two teen girls adn want to be able to walk into a village to pick up bakery items etc but also be near some rural areas. Is there anyway I can contact you St Cirq directly to find out more.
Thanks heaps
Kate
There have been mixed messages about Le Bugue on here - ST Cirq and Stu Dudley I have been following some past notes of yours and they have been helpful.
we are two adults and two teen girls adn want to be able to walk into a village to pick up bakery items etc but also be near some rural areas. Is there anyway I can contact you St Cirq directly to find out more.
Thanks heaps
Kate
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