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Old Jun 24th, 2007, 09:02 AM
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I prefer to stay in a village or small town with several restaurant options within walking distance. Allows for wine at dinner. So I'd vote for St. Remy also.

We stayed in a villa there and did one day-trip to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Gordes (and the Abbaye de Senanque) as well as Roussillon. That was a great sight-seeing day, didn't feel like a long day at all. Other day trips we did from St. Remy: Cassis and a boat trip to the calanques; the Pont du Gard/Uzes/Nimes.

We also spent a couple days in Aix before our villa (stocked up on food at the Aix market). One day would have been enough.

There's so much to see in Provence. You have to make up your mind to coming back for what you missed!
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Old Jun 24th, 2007, 07:55 PM
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Sure enough, my recommendation is Chez Bru. An unassuming-looking place that looks like a bistro and calls itself a bisto (albeit a very hyped one), yet has two Michelin stars. If I had known how good the food was, I would have had dinner and spent the night in Eygaliers, and made a day trip to Les Baux, rather than the other way around. Indeed it probably was fairly expensive. I can't remember at this point -- as a passionate foodie who is forced to dine in the US almost all of the time, I couldn't let an obstacle like cost stand in my way!

And by the way, if in St. Remy, I suggest a stop in Joel Durand's chocolate shop:

http://www.chocolat-durand.com/
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Old Jun 25th, 2007, 12:24 AM
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Hi Hawksbill,
Thanks just found another great write up for your fav. restaurant in a Travel and Leisure mag. Not that I was in doubt.!!!! Sounds wonderful and we will try to get there for sure.
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Old Jun 25th, 2007, 06:36 AM
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mscapetown...

The only suggestion I have for getting into St. Rémy on market day is get there early. If you get into town around 8 or at least by 8:30 you should be able to park in the tourist office lot or on the street nearby. Coming from Les Baux is actually easier getting into town on market day than coming from another direction.

Some restaurant recommendations in the area - aside from the Bistrot Bru in Eygalières - which has become very expensive.

St. Remy

Jardin de Frédéric
Small, cozy restaurant with a small outdoor terrace. Good seafood dishes. Friendly owner and service is good.
Closed Sunday and Monday lunch
Dress - Casual
8, boulevard Gambetta Tel: 04 90 92 27 76
Menus offered at 25 and 28 euro (dinner) 16 euro (lunch)

La Serre

Charming restaurant in an old greenhouse in the village - chef is the grandson of Gaston Lenotre. Very good, inventive food, reasonably priced.
Dress - casual
8, rue Commune Tel: 04 90 92 37 21


Two Café–restaurants that offer good value for the money:

L’Industrie – 21 blvd. Mirabeau
Les Variétés – 32 blvd. Victor Hugo


Outside of St.Remy, on the D5 just outside of Graveson:

Moulin d'Aure

Also a B&B, the restaurant is wonderful. The owners are Italian, so many of the dishes are Italian inspired. Reasonably priced, with a decent wine list that includes some good Italian choices.
Tel: 04 90 95 84 05


Outside of St. Remy in the direction of Noves:

La Maison (Domaine de Bournissac)
New restaurant and country inn (about two years old) - in a lovely old mas. Excellent cuisine. Terrace shaded by a fig tree. Menus at around 40 euro
Closed Monday and Tuesday noon
tel: 04 90 90 25 25


Les Baux de Provence

* Riboto de Taven
In the Val d'Enfer, just below the village of Les Baux. An excellent Michelin one star restaurant for thirty-five years, they've turned in their star and are no longer serving a varied menu. They've become a country inn and serve a dinner with a set menu . Call in advance to see what they're serving - and if they have room. The menu changes with the seasons, but always includes regional dishes. Beautiful garden and terrace with a view of the village of Les Baux. Dining on the terrace in the summer months, otherwise indoors in what was once the bergerie (sheepfold).
Dress - Dressy casual, although no ties required for men.
Tel: 04 90 54 34 23
Menu is usually around 45 euro



Maussane-les-Alpilles


L’Oustaloun

On the village square, this hotel restaurant has a small menu, but the food is excellent.

* Bistrot de La Petite France

Former Michelin one star restaurant, just outside Maussane near Le Paradou in a renovated farmhouse. They "turned in" their star and changed the style of the restaurant to a less formal bistro. Excellent food, good service. One of the best wine lists in France (the chef's father is the owner of the largest wine distributor in the south of France)
Casual. Reservations recommended Closed Wednesday and Thursday
55, avenue de la Vallee des Baux Tel: 04 90 54 41 91
Menu - 25 euro


Fontvieille (between Arles & Les Baux)

Cuisine au Planet
Very small, but charming, restaurant in the center of the village.... in one of the oldest houses there (16th C). Small outdoor terrace for summer dining.
Dress - casual
144, Grand rue Tel: 04 90 54 63 97
Menus 25 and 32 euro


Arles

Jardin des Arts - Totally non-smoking

This is a great spot for lunch. On the main walking/shopping street, in a restored building overlooking a garden. There are daily menus as well as a large choice “a la carte”. The salads are large and excellent.
Lunch service only.
38, rue de la Republique
Tel: 04 90 96 10 36



L’atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel

Opened in March, 2006 by the former chef, and creator of the only registered organic restaurant La Chassagnette in the Camargue. This is a small restaurant in the heart of the shopping area. The theme remains the same – organic, fresh and inventive.

They have various lunch formulas at varying prices
Dinner – 50 €
7, rue des Carmes
tel: 04 90 91 07 69


Eygalières

* Bistrot d'Eygalières "Chez Bru"
Michelin one star. Charming restaurant in the center of this tiny village. Owners/chef are Belgian, trained at the Baumanière in the 'good old days'. Inventive cuisine, fairly good wine list. In the summer, tables are set outside on the sidewalk for outdoor dining. They also have four rooms.... 120 to 140 € per night
Reservations recommended in season and on weekends.
rue Republique Tel: 04 90 90 60 34
Lunch menu 45 euro Dinner menus 85/100 €

Sous les Micocouliers
Situated off the main road, this restaurant always has an interesting daily menu.
Lovely large terrace under the trees, it's great in the summer months.
Closed Tuesday all day and Wednesday at lunchtime.
Tel: 04 90 95 94 53

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Old Jun 25th, 2007, 06:38 AM
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Sorry for the typo - Chez Bru has two Michelin stars
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Old Jun 25th, 2007, 06:51 AM
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bookmarking for future planning!
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Old Jun 25th, 2007, 11:04 AM
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St. Remy gets my vote also. Try to stay at Le Chateau des Alpilles which is just outside of town and quite exquisite. Check out their website.
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Old Jun 25th, 2007, 05:14 PM
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Hi Patricia, starting to feel like I can't live without your. Thanks so much for a great list of places. Really appreciate your time and effort.
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Old Jun 25th, 2007, 06:04 PM
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I'll add my favorites,
La RegAlido in Fontveille,
Bistro du Paradou,
Le Fournil, Bonnieux,
Mas de Tourteron, Les Imberts(outside of Gordes)
L'áffenage, Arles,
Riboto de taven, Les Baux,
We don't want to overwhelm you so decide on your own.
Chez Bru, Eygalieres

a

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Old Jun 26th, 2007, 02:42 AM
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Again thanks one and all
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Old Jun 26th, 2007, 05:32 PM
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To throw in my recent two cents worth....
Last fall we stopped to stay near St Remy "on the fly" -- we ended up at Chateau de Roussan for 80Euro a night for a double and thought it was a great deal. The grounds are incredible. Now, at this price, you are NOT getting a totally restored 4-5 Star experience, if that is what you are looking for. TripAdvisor has mixed reviews, as befits a place where you can stay in what may once have been splendor, at a really affordable price. (In otherwords, I think the complaints are from folks who expected the impossible.) It looked like the kind of place I'd like to go to sit in once splendid gardens and write all day. They had several delightful dogs and cats on the premises...we don't freak out over animals and these were quite well trained and seemed to be at home. Anyway, it is perfectly located if you want a place to daytrip from -- right off the beautiful route 99 which is lined with plane trees. www.chateau-de-roussan.com/ang.htm

Later in our trip, we also found a wonderful -- and VERY top notch in anyone's regard -- place near Isle sur la Sorgue. It is run by an American woman who was originally from Washington DC and her Swiss husband. It is called Mas de Tamar www.mas-de-tamar.com/indexa.html We worked out a deal with her (it was October and tourists were scarce) and stayed two nights. If we get back to the region we will try to stay here again. Tamara and her husband are really terrific and will give you some fabulous day-trip itineraries. Staying in two locations in Province is a great idea.
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Old Jun 26th, 2007, 05:41 PM
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Iagree, we were there years ago and I described it as shabby chic
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Old Jun 26th, 2007, 05:44 PM
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We recently dined at Chez Bru and thought it was wonderful. It is pricey but worth it. Also had dinner outside of Lourmarin at Auberge de Feniere. Also very nice, but I preferred Chez Bru.

We rented a lovely house in a little village called Ansouis, not far from Lourmarin. The Luberon is beautiful and I highly recommend the area, as it is not far to visit Gordes, Rousillon Bonnieux etc as mentioned in previous posts. If possible, I still find Ile sur le Sorgue a must see on Sunday morning for the big market. I have been there a couple of times, most recently a few weeks ago, and it is still great fun.
Enjoy your trip!
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Old Jun 26th, 2007, 05:59 PM
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Ansouis is very nice. we have stopped there for lunch and once there were flags hanging from a previous fete, I tried to find where to buy the blue Provencal flag but couldn't understand the directions man in a garage gave me.
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Old Jun 28th, 2007, 01:23 PM
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We just got back from a trip to Paris/ Provence. We stayed four nights at the Mas des Carassins in St. Remy, and I cannot say enough nice things about it.
(I read about it here--thanks Fodorites!) The grounds, pool and rooms are lovely, the dinners outside in the gardens under their olive tree were great, and the service was exceptionally nice and helpful. Very good value. And we LOVED the town. It's about a ten minute walk. Have fun!
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Old Jun 28th, 2007, 02:45 PM
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I totally agree with the last post - les Mas des Carassins is awesome, and at least it would be worth it to check the website. Dinner in the garden was great, but I think I may have enjoyed even more breakfast by the pool, with the light just starting to come up over les Alpilles. Also: we had an exquisite (and, yes, pricey but great qualite/prix)lunch at Baumaniere in July 2005: generosity of spirit: preparing - without a raised eyebrow or smirk in sight - an off-menu dish of pasta for our 11-year old daughter, presenting it with a flourish (under a gorgeous silver cover) AND then not even charging us anything for her meal; playfulness and expertise on the plate; and warm wishes from the management at our departure - a dream experience. Bon voyage! msm4
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