My father came from Croatia and I'd like to visit his homeland and find my "roots". Although I have never been there I speak fluent Croatian so the language would not be a problem. I would like to see Zargreb (where Dad lived before WWll) Dad also spoke of the beauty of Split and Dubrovnik so these two would be on the agenda as well. Did the war damage large areas of these towns? If I drive down the coast to Dubrovnik is there anything to see driving back up inland to Zargreb or should I return via the coast? I'd be grateful to hear from anyone who has been after the war for a firsthand impression. It's not as easy to get information on Croatia as some of the other more well traveled countries. Thanks.

Sorry Dad, I know it's ZAGREB. I wasn't looking where my fingers were going.

Hi Bill, <BR>we have a lot of refugees here in Germany from that part. Just yesterday I was talking to a guy from Dubrovnik and he has told me that the war has caused severe damage in the city.I`ve been there before the war and loved it very much so I was very sorry to hear that. Around Dubrovnik you´ll find beautiful sandy beaches-nearly the only ones in the country. Be prepared that you will meet a lot of people who do not possess much more than what they´re wearing. In Istrien they´ve tried to attract tourists again especially the area around Porec and Rovinje wasn´t affected much by the war. Their problem is that the new government has risen taxes to such a high level that a bottle of wine is more expensive than in Germany. Stupid thing to do since Tourism is the only thing those people have been depending on even before the war. But regerding the history of the past years, the war etc. AND high costs most Europeans prefer to go to Spain or somewhere else. Sorry, but I can´t help you with the other points. <BR> <BR>Kind regards <BR> <BR>Miriam

We are planning on going to Croatia this June for a week. My husband went to Split and Zagreb last year for business and loved it! Our travel agent sent two couples to Dubrovnik last year and they loved it, also. We also have friends in the Embassy in Zagreb so we will visit them as well. <BR> <BR>Check out the NY Times Travel section from Dec. 26th, there is a big article on travel to Croatia and a good report! Also, I am not sure why the above post said it was expensive....its a travel bargain! <BR> <BR>Get a copy of the Lonely Planet's Guide to Croatia for more ideas. It just came out a while ago. You can order it from www.amazon.com if the bookstores do not have copies. Another tip - call the Croatian Tourist borad for information. <BR> <BR>You can take a ferry from Dubrovnik to the islands and end up in Split then fly to Zagreb. <BR> <BR>Web sites: <BR> <BR>www.croatia.hr <BR> <BR>http://www.htz.hr/ <BR>

Fodors <BR> <BR>Dear Mr White, <BR> <BR>I was in Dubrovnik for a week and Split or a day some three years ago. At that date about two thirds of the buldings of Dubrovnik within the walls were re-opened, with new tiles in damaged roves, and new floors whetre need be. They were hard at work, and I dout that many are stll losed. Even closed buildings simply hads a ck on the door, so the did nt jar the eye. The Serbian damage, which wqas indeed severe, was done by shells that dropped though roofs: so far as I could see few walls were hit. So the old city was as beautiful and as delightful as ever. <BR> <BR>All I did was listen to lectures in the morning at the useful and cheap InterUniversity Centre, walk in the late afternoon, and sup at restaurants in the evening. People around me looked liked any other Croats: well enough off, though far from rich. <BR> <BR>Split, too, was in good shape. <BR> <BR>It's true that Croata costs a tourist more than, say, Hungary or Poland, but that's still less than most of western Europe. I.m aftraid I didn't notice the price of wine -- too busy drinking it. <BR> <BR>If you were to drive down the coast then to stay in Croatia you'd have to drive back up it as far as Sibenik, but then you could turn inland and run through Knin, Gracac, Meddak, Gospic, Perusic, Ogulin, Karlovac, and so Zagreb. According to the newspapers, a good deal of this route was recently underpopulatred, due to Croat ethnic cleansing of Serbs in 1995, in the days of President Tujman. The election earlier this week of a non-Tujman majority gives great grounds for hope, and this would be a good time to visit. The more so as you speak Croat, and as (being an Australian) you know what a country can do to honour every language and group among its citizens. <BR> <BR>Please write if I can help further. <BR> <BR>Ben Haines, London <BR>

Bill, <BR> <BR>The New York Times travel section for last Sunday (1/2) or the Sunday before (12/26) ran a long feature on the islands between Split and Dubrovnik, the upshot being that Hvar, Korcula, etc. are open for business and eager for it. You may be able to access that article on-line (nytimes.com - but you have to register, i.e. submit to a cookie). There was a charming photo of Hvar's harbor.... I suggest you consider going by sea in one direction perhaps in preference to going inland. I know this doesn't necessarily put you in touch with possible relatives, but it will be beautiful! It sounded like the islands survived with relatively little damage, but I would be interested in eye-witness reports.

Thanks to everyone who has posted and emailed in response to my husband's query. We actually know very little about the region - only stories my husband can remember told by his father who passed away 25 years ago. One more question if I may. Does anyone know if credit cards are widely accepted, if there are ATM's that dispense local currency and is it necessary to use local currency at hotels, restaurants etc or are they eager to accept USD or DEM? <BR> <BR>I found the NY Times article. Thank you Julie and Cassandra for mentioning it.

I don't know about Croatia in particular. My experience is in Macedonia. <BR> <BR>My bet, though, is that credit cards are not widely accepted, except probably at a first class hotel. You may also find that the sign SAYS they accept them, but when you ask you'll get a shrug. [Even in Czech Republic I have had this experience.] <BR> <BR>I imagine there are atms in Zagreb at least, but be sure to have cards for both cirrus and plus as I found in Skopje that there was only one plus machine in the city. [Fortunately in our hotel!] Croatia has been under the rule of a "strongman" until Tudjman's recent death which has held them back economically. <BR> <BR>I hope someone else has more information than my inferences from the recent history of Croatia and my experiences in Macedonia. <BR> <BR>I have also found that travelers checks are pretty useless. You can't exchange them in exchange offices and banks look at them as though they will catch on fire! I carry cash in a body wallet [under my clothes] and we divide the $$$ between us.

Hello Bill ( and Bill's wife!) <BR> <BR>I spent four lovely days in Croatia in July 98 for a wedding in Dubrovnik. At the time, I was living in the US so had a Citibank Visa Card and a standard US bank ATM Card. <BR> <BR>I was able to use the Visa card in hotels, shops and resturants and I think I remember using my ATM card for cash as well. They will also accept USD and DEM. <BR> <BR>As for Dubrovnik, I hate to tell anybody about it for fear of it being overrun with tourists again!! It is the most beautiful city in Europe, in my humble opinion ( even beats Dublin - my hometown). Yes, it was damaged in the war. My hosts pointed out bullet holes in the walls of the old city and from the city walls, looking out over the city you can see where roofs have being replaced by their colours - bright oranage as opposed to the older browns. <BR> <BR>Nevertheless, this should not deter you from visiting it. The old city is completley walled off and there is a walk around the top of the walls with breath-taking views. Within the city itself, there are loads of little alley ways with small shops, and the ground itself is similar to marble, worn down over the years. There is musuem within the walls which is well worth checking out. For nightlife, there are a number of bars where most people sit outside enjoying the local beer - a great atmosphere. <BR> <BR>I actually travelled from Split to Dubrovnink by bus (which only broke down once!!). It's about a four hour journey but again the scenery is amazing - definitely drive down that way - but I can't speak for the inland route. <BR> <BR>I think the best thing about Croatia was the people. Understandably, I was able to meet more of them on a more social level as my friend was marrying a local girl but they are very hospitiable and are glad to see people returning to visit their country. <BR> <BR>I know you'll have a wonderful time - enjoy yourselves!! <BR> <BR>Fiona.

Fiona - where did you stay in Dubrovnik? We are in the process of finding a hotel. Is it OK to stay in Lapad vs the old city? <BR> <BR>We found this web site for hotels in Dubrovnik - if anyone else is interested! <BR> <BR>http://dubrovnik.laus.hr/dubrovnik3/html/hotels.html

Sending to the top for Diane. <BR>

Great information!

We visited Croatia in Oct. 1998. Credit cards were accepted. We saw several ATMs in Zagreb. As I recall, we exchanged our Deutschmarks for Kuna. Have you seen www.croatia.net? We explored some rural and small-town areas west of Zagreb, as my husband's folks are from Ponikve, Vrbosko and Jasenek - it reminded us very much of West Virginia (rolling hills and "hollers").

I went on a tour of Croatia in September 1999, Zagreb and then down the Dalmatian Coast, my first trip to Croatia. (Speaking no Croatian, I wasn't sure if I could do it own my own.) I really liked the country and the people. Like Bill, I have relatives from the area, my mother's family is from outside Split. After the tour, I stayed for a few days and visited with cousins and saw the farm my grandparents left to come to America. My cousins were exceptional hosts and really showed me a good time. <BR> <BR>Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik were all in good shape, at least from the outside of buildings. <BR> <BR>I enjoyed visiting all 3 cities, and each had something different to offer. To me, Zagreb seemed more "European" and less "Mediteranean." Split and Dubrovnik seemed more "Mediteranean" in flavor. All 3 cities were handsome, but Dubrovnik is not called "the pearl" for nothing. The old part of Dubrovnik is walled, and you can walk on the walls and get terrific views of the city. <BR> <BR>In 1999 I had no problem charging things with credit cards or obtaining local currency with my ATM card. I know at least one of the persons on my tour tipped people in the hotels with US currency (he sometimes didn't have small local currency) and didn't have any problems. <BR> <BR>I hope you enjoy your trip as much as I did. Nearer to Zagreb, if you get the chance, you might want to visit Plivitce (sp?) Lakes Park. It's a UNESCO site and very pretty to walk around. It's a series of beautiful lakes joined by waterfalls and surrounded by forest. There is a path around the lakes and wooden paths crossing over parts of the lakes. It was very pretty. <BR> <BR>Down the coast, it's great to drive and see all of the little towns hugging the coast. It's very pretty and very Mediteranean looking. On one side of a town is the Adriatic and mountains on the other side. Very picturesque. I also went to some of the islands. They were also very pretty, with attractive squares and harbors. You could choose to walk around a picturesque town or go to the beach. <BR> <BR>The food was really good. Particularly when I wasn't eating at the tour's hotel restaurants. Where possible I would eat in the cafes and restuarants, not in the hotels. There's a lot of pasta there (after-all Venice occupied part of the Coast for several years!) and very good seafood. Compared to the US or more expensive Europe, food in Croatia was a bargain. And wine was particularly inexpensive. <BR> <BR>Have a great trip!