West Ireland-Just Got Back
May 18th, 2003 | 01:17 PM
#1
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Joined: Feb 2003
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West Ireland-Just Got Back
Hello, we just got back from a trip to West Ireland and I have some tips.
Here is how the trip went. We flew from JFK to Shannon, and drove to Doolin for two nights. The roads were as bad as described and we lost our side mirror, cars are parked everywhere with no rhyme or reason. Driving at night was impossible. Luckily it stayed light until 10-11pm. It was cold on the coast and we wore wool sweaters unless we drove inland towards Ennis, then it warmed up. Still we wore sweaters most of the time. Drinking and Driving is okay so be warned. An open container in one hand and the steering wheel in the other is just fine.
Doolin is okay but you do not need to spend the night, the Burren is a must see along with the perfumery and Kilforna for the nice deals on sweaters. Stop at the shop to the left of the Old Plaid Shawl, on the main street for woolens. Doolin has only two pubs and a music shop and the cliffs of moher can be seen in a half day. A better place to spend the night is Lisdoorvarna, or Galway. Lisdoorvarna is a little overpriced but they have great salmon and I discovered Mead.
We drove N59 to Clifden and drive is spectacular. We drove through the town and there are two nice art galleries. Most of the hotels didn't look so hot and take my advice and get a B&B with a 4 star rating. Finally we stopped at a sign for a castle and found it was a castle hotel, AbbeyGlen. Well worth staying here even though it got only 3 stars. The furnishings are soft and antique, and the gardens are outside the windows. There is a pool and a stable, and golf course. Nearby are several spas, because this area is known for it's seaweed and kelp. We bought some seaweed creams in the pharmacy in town. We could not seem to coordinate with any spas all week as they were booked solid. The castle hotel was booked up solid the next night so we moved on.
The drive to Kylemore Abbey is the best, the Fjord and the harbor towns, we will go back. The mountains and the ocean together are worth the trip. We weren't so happy to leave and continue to a museum in Turlough and to Westport. Westport is a pretty city, bright and cheery with an internet B&B but we stayed at a big corporate hotel which I felt was lacking in charm. Rosemone about ten minutes away has Seaweed baths.
The hotel reception was great though, and directed us to Cong on the other side of Corrib Lough, to the castle that everyone visits. It was very beautiful and worth looking inside. The gardens and the view of the Lake were worth it but it was a long drive. You could skip this unless you are really into Castle hotels. There is an article on this hotel in one of the magazines I have and it's really nice but a long drive from anything. We stayed in Galway that night at a wonderful 4 star B&B on College ave for $55 a room. The breakfast was really top notch, only make sure to ask for a room facing the back. The owner is Brita a very helpful hostess. Galway is an excellent place to fly into because there are great restaurants, and hotels. We had the usual meaty breakfast but there were berries, yogurts and cereals too. Plus it was very elegant. The name is Ardawn House, and the email is [email protected] The phone is 091-568833
Once you go into Galway and are in Eyre square facing the Great Southern Hotel, turn left and go up that street up the hill and that is College. The Ardawn House is on the left, number 31, is red brick and comes up right away so drive slow.
All the food was wonderful, even Kylemore Abbey and the heritage museum in Turlough had fantastic coffee, strawberries and cream, whiskey cakes, and sandwiches. The pubs serve good food, ham, bacon, and fish are really big. I didn't see chicken on the menu once. I had salmon and fish almost every night. Whoever said Irish food wasn't good hasn't been lately. The hotels had excellent food. Food service times are strict, so if you get hungry in between buy snacks. Asking for directions was easy, everyone was very helpful. There was a lot of talk about few Americans were not there, probably because of the war. I bought a lot of books. I think all the Americans go to the South.
B&B's do not tax so it's a big savings. When you get your tax back they charge a service fee for every shop and you don't get it back for accomodations so we will stay in B&B's next time.
When getting the tax back you do not need to have the good ready for inspection like in Canada. I would dress warm, and buy sweaters. We found the airport duty free shop had excellent deals and were less on woolens then most shops.
When leaving we visited Bunratty and the folk park is excellent. Kind of funny paying $10 euro to get in to buy lunch at the pub, but the pub is excellent and we thought it was some of the best food we had. The woolen shop has some lovely linen and cotton blankets, they weave and dye the cloth right there. The castles are wonderful but after a while you get picky. Some signs on the road will say castle or standing stones, and it's a tease. Don't drive too far.
Near Cong we saw standing stones on the map and finally found them in the rain. Surrounded by high stone walls that we couldn't get over. I don't know what the point of that was.
The big mistake we made was pushing on to Adare through Limerick. We should have stayed in Limerick it looks like a great city. Adare didn't have much to offer except a big corporate castle hotel with a car dealership and golf course on it. We thought the South of Ireland was more touristy and expensive. Driving to Adare from the airport was a mess and our hotel in Adare, the Fitzgerald Woodlands, hotel and spa was a mess too. This town is not worth an overnight. Stay in Limerick. There weren't many small towns worth an overnight except for Clifden which as a wonderful castle hotel originally in the D'Arcy family, and great views for sketching. We didn't see any Americans or Canadians at all until Bunratty and Adare.
If you have any questions I will be happy to help, we covered every square inch of the West, Galway, and Clare county. Mayo county looked beautiful too but we only saw the Southern portion. The museum in Turlough did show us how much the Irish depend on the land. We saw peat being made from the bogs, basket makers, we learned the Irish invented Halloween masks. We could smell peat being burned.
We used Ireland.com's booklet on hotels.
We didn't have any trouble finding accomodations without any reservations because almost every house in the smaller towns is a B&B. There is new construction everywhere, and apparently housing prices are skyrocketing.
We will go back in the Fall and visit Dublin too. Customs was a breeze too. You don't need a lot of cash, about $200 Euro is all I had for the week. If a B&B won't tell you if they accept credit cards or not, they don't. 4 Star ones do usually and those are the ones you want anyway. The only places that do not take credit cards are pubs usually. All in all it was a good trip except for side diversions recommended by others. Stick to your plan you will find a lot to see and photograph in Ireland.
Julie
Here is how the trip went. We flew from JFK to Shannon, and drove to Doolin for two nights. The roads were as bad as described and we lost our side mirror, cars are parked everywhere with no rhyme or reason. Driving at night was impossible. Luckily it stayed light until 10-11pm. It was cold on the coast and we wore wool sweaters unless we drove inland towards Ennis, then it warmed up. Still we wore sweaters most of the time. Drinking and Driving is okay so be warned. An open container in one hand and the steering wheel in the other is just fine.
Doolin is okay but you do not need to spend the night, the Burren is a must see along with the perfumery and Kilforna for the nice deals on sweaters. Stop at the shop to the left of the Old Plaid Shawl, on the main street for woolens. Doolin has only two pubs and a music shop and the cliffs of moher can be seen in a half day. A better place to spend the night is Lisdoorvarna, or Galway. Lisdoorvarna is a little overpriced but they have great salmon and I discovered Mead.
We drove N59 to Clifden and drive is spectacular. We drove through the town and there are two nice art galleries. Most of the hotels didn't look so hot and take my advice and get a B&B with a 4 star rating. Finally we stopped at a sign for a castle and found it was a castle hotel, AbbeyGlen. Well worth staying here even though it got only 3 stars. The furnishings are soft and antique, and the gardens are outside the windows. There is a pool and a stable, and golf course. Nearby are several spas, because this area is known for it's seaweed and kelp. We bought some seaweed creams in the pharmacy in town. We could not seem to coordinate with any spas all week as they were booked solid. The castle hotel was booked up solid the next night so we moved on.
The drive to Kylemore Abbey is the best, the Fjord and the harbor towns, we will go back. The mountains and the ocean together are worth the trip. We weren't so happy to leave and continue to a museum in Turlough and to Westport. Westport is a pretty city, bright and cheery with an internet B&B but we stayed at a big corporate hotel which I felt was lacking in charm. Rosemone about ten minutes away has Seaweed baths.
The hotel reception was great though, and directed us to Cong on the other side of Corrib Lough, to the castle that everyone visits. It was very beautiful and worth looking inside. The gardens and the view of the Lake were worth it but it was a long drive. You could skip this unless you are really into Castle hotels. There is an article on this hotel in one of the magazines I have and it's really nice but a long drive from anything. We stayed in Galway that night at a wonderful 4 star B&B on College ave for $55 a room. The breakfast was really top notch, only make sure to ask for a room facing the back. The owner is Brita a very helpful hostess. Galway is an excellent place to fly into because there are great restaurants, and hotels. We had the usual meaty breakfast but there were berries, yogurts and cereals too. Plus it was very elegant. The name is Ardawn House, and the email is [email protected] The phone is 091-568833
Once you go into Galway and are in Eyre square facing the Great Southern Hotel, turn left and go up that street up the hill and that is College. The Ardawn House is on the left, number 31, is red brick and comes up right away so drive slow.
All the food was wonderful, even Kylemore Abbey and the heritage museum in Turlough had fantastic coffee, strawberries and cream, whiskey cakes, and sandwiches. The pubs serve good food, ham, bacon, and fish are really big. I didn't see chicken on the menu once. I had salmon and fish almost every night. Whoever said Irish food wasn't good hasn't been lately. The hotels had excellent food. Food service times are strict, so if you get hungry in between buy snacks. Asking for directions was easy, everyone was very helpful. There was a lot of talk about few Americans were not there, probably because of the war. I bought a lot of books. I think all the Americans go to the South.
B&B's do not tax so it's a big savings. When you get your tax back they charge a service fee for every shop and you don't get it back for accomodations so we will stay in B&B's next time.
When getting the tax back you do not need to have the good ready for inspection like in Canada. I would dress warm, and buy sweaters. We found the airport duty free shop had excellent deals and were less on woolens then most shops.
When leaving we visited Bunratty and the folk park is excellent. Kind of funny paying $10 euro to get in to buy lunch at the pub, but the pub is excellent and we thought it was some of the best food we had. The woolen shop has some lovely linen and cotton blankets, they weave and dye the cloth right there. The castles are wonderful but after a while you get picky. Some signs on the road will say castle or standing stones, and it's a tease. Don't drive too far.
Near Cong we saw standing stones on the map and finally found them in the rain. Surrounded by high stone walls that we couldn't get over. I don't know what the point of that was.
The big mistake we made was pushing on to Adare through Limerick. We should have stayed in Limerick it looks like a great city. Adare didn't have much to offer except a big corporate castle hotel with a car dealership and golf course on it. We thought the South of Ireland was more touristy and expensive. Driving to Adare from the airport was a mess and our hotel in Adare, the Fitzgerald Woodlands, hotel and spa was a mess too. This town is not worth an overnight. Stay in Limerick. There weren't many small towns worth an overnight except for Clifden which as a wonderful castle hotel originally in the D'Arcy family, and great views for sketching. We didn't see any Americans or Canadians at all until Bunratty and Adare.
If you have any questions I will be happy to help, we covered every square inch of the West, Galway, and Clare county. Mayo county looked beautiful too but we only saw the Southern portion. The museum in Turlough did show us how much the Irish depend on the land. We saw peat being made from the bogs, basket makers, we learned the Irish invented Halloween masks. We could smell peat being burned.
We used Ireland.com's booklet on hotels.
We didn't have any trouble finding accomodations without any reservations because almost every house in the smaller towns is a B&B. There is new construction everywhere, and apparently housing prices are skyrocketing.
We will go back in the Fall and visit Dublin too. Customs was a breeze too. You don't need a lot of cash, about $200 Euro is all I had for the week. If a B&B won't tell you if they accept credit cards or not, they don't. 4 Star ones do usually and those are the ones you want anyway. The only places that do not take credit cards are pubs usually. All in all it was a good trip except for side diversions recommended by others. Stick to your plan you will find a lot to see and photograph in Ireland.
Julie
May 18th, 2003 | 01:53 PM
#2
Joined: May 2003
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Julie,
Planning a similar trip to the same areas. Thought about heading straight for Clifden from Shannon airport. We were originally going just to Galway and actually looked at the Ardawn House. Not real fond of bigger cities, is Galway still the way to go or would you go on to Clifden? Sandy
Planning a similar trip to the same areas. Thought about heading straight for Clifden from Shannon airport. We were originally going just to Galway and actually looked at the Ardawn House. Not real fond of bigger cities, is Galway still the way to go or would you go on to Clifden? Sandy
May 18th, 2003 | 02:04 PM
#3
Joined: Jan 2003
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We are leaving on Friday evening from Boston for a quick trip. We head to Galway (Salthill) the first night and then down to Kilrush where we will base ourselves for 2 nights. Did you get down to this area? It is near the ferry over the Shannon to Kerry. The weather looks as though it will be rain every day. Did it rain the entire time you were there.
May 19th, 2003 | 08:15 AM
#5
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 95
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To JulieHHH.
Drinking and driving is most definitely NOT O.K. This has to be cleared up in case anybody thinks they can come here and enjoy a Guinness or whatever on the move. Yes, it still goes on to some extent, more so in rural areas where there would be a lower police presence, but no way and no where is this considered O.K.
Nice write up though - I wish a lot more people took the time to do the same.
Drinking and driving is most definitely NOT O.K. This has to be cleared up in case anybody thinks they can come here and enjoy a Guinness or whatever on the move. Yes, it still goes on to some extent, more so in rural areas where there would be a lower police presence, but no way and no where is this considered O.K.
Nice write up though - I wish a lot more people took the time to do the same.
May 19th, 2003 | 09:01 AM
#6
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 335
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Opaldog -
I have driven through Kilrush twice. The first time we stopped for lunch and to stretch our legs.
It looks like a cute small town, and worth a night, but I don't think I would spend 2 nights there unless I had a really good reason.
Ennis , and even Shannon/Bunratty are not that far away, or if you take the ferry, Tarbert & Glin on the other side of the river.
Debbie
I have driven through Kilrush twice. The first time we stopped for lunch and to stretch our legs.
It looks like a cute small town, and worth a night, but I don't think I would spend 2 nights there unless I had a really good reason.
Ennis , and even Shannon/Bunratty are not that far away, or if you take the ferry, Tarbert & Glin on the other side of the river.
Debbie
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May 20th, 2003 | 09:34 AM
#8
Joined: May 2003
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Julie, thanks for the great report. Glad you enjoyed Abbeyglen in Cliften. I was there last year with a friend who had stayed there dozens of times through the years. Fabulous restaurant, fun bar, wonderful views of the Bens. Returning in July for more. Helen
May 21st, 2003 | 04:51 AM
#9
Joined: Jan 2003
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From an official Ireland web page regarding driving rules and laws:
To drive legally in Ireland you must have a valid international driving license, an EU standard pattern license or an Irish license. If you intend to stay in Ireland you must apply for an Irish license, unless you have an EU license in which case you can exchange it for an Irish license. Whichever license you have, you should carry it with you in your vehicle at all times.
You should ensure your vehicle is registered for the current year, and you need at least third-party insurance cover for any vehicle you drive. It is an offence not to display valid evidence of vehicle registration and insurance.
Before you take to the road, be familiar with Ireland's driving laws, especially with regard to speed limits. For most urban areas, this is 30 mph (48kph). Drink driving is governed by strict laws in Ireland. The legal limit is 80 milligrammes of alcohol in 100 millilitres of blood (around two pints, depending entirely on circumstances), however official advice is not to drink alcohol at all when driving.
So please ignore her comments about it being OK to drink and drive.
To drive legally in Ireland you must have a valid international driving license, an EU standard pattern license or an Irish license. If you intend to stay in Ireland you must apply for an Irish license, unless you have an EU license in which case you can exchange it for an Irish license. Whichever license you have, you should carry it with you in your vehicle at all times.
You should ensure your vehicle is registered for the current year, and you need at least third-party insurance cover for any vehicle you drive. It is an offence not to display valid evidence of vehicle registration and insurance.
Before you take to the road, be familiar with Ireland's driving laws, especially with regard to speed limits. For most urban areas, this is 30 mph (48kph). Drink driving is governed by strict laws in Ireland. The legal limit is 80 milligrammes of alcohol in 100 millilitres of blood (around two pints, depending entirely on circumstances), however official advice is not to drink alcohol at all when driving.
So please ignore her comments about it being OK to drink and drive.
May 21st, 2003 | 06:37 AM
#10
Joined: Jan 2003
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Good report, Julie. Thanks for the details.
But I have to echo comments about the drinking and driving. Enforcement is actually much stronger there than it is in North America, and people who are caught drinking and driving (or "drink driving" as they call it) are usually banned from driving for at least a year.
But I have to echo comments about the drinking and driving. Enforcement is actually much stronger there than it is in North America, and people who are caught drinking and driving (or "drink driving" as they call it) are usually banned from driving for at least a year.
May 28th, 2003 | 03:32 PM
#11
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Hi, I did go to Ennis and it's a good place to spend the night. The people were very friendly and we liked it. I liked Lisdoorvarna too, but Ennis did have more shopping and nightlife. Lots of college age people in the Burren and Ennis.
It was more my mother who was concerned about the drinking and driving I think because she was worried about driving. She was very jumpy the first day when a bartender told us there were no laws about this. There is some concern when you are driving for the first time on the left side of the road, I think this was nerves only. I would only say be careful about driving after dark, or after you have been drinking because there is no way to get back to your hotel after you have been drinking except to drive or walk. It's pitch dark. A temptation which I did not fall into by drinking as little as possible or drinking in the hotel only. How much to drink and how to get home? This is a concern for us on vacation. I think the challenge is more for tourists not to drink and drive because they are on vacation and there are not many police cars anywhere. For that reason I liked less populated roads and didn't drive after dark. As a tourist I felt giddy already.
Ireland is health concious, we found a pub in Lisdoorvarna with wheat free dinners, and vegan options. Of course I had a regular bacon sandwich, but those options are there.
Mainly I was tired of driving but got stuck with most of it because everyone else wanted to drink. When I go back I will make sure to get the driving situation straightened out. I was very careful to avoid hitting bushes, so other occupants of the car did not get nervous. Others driving were not so sympathetic. We still lost our side mirrors (that was me). There are bumpier roads in the Burren than in the Connemara even with all the sheep in the road. Did I say that on N59 one nursed her two lambs in the middle of the road? I like sheep much more now, I don't think I can eat lamb for a while, if ever.
I would stick to driving only 1-3 hours a day. You could really stay in Clifden for a week, exploring the area. Good for horseback riding, boat tours, beautiful scenery for sketching and relaxing. I will upload photos soon and post link.
Ireland.com wasn't much help to me either, I found the Ireland.com booklet in a hotel in Westport.
I like Galway very much as a base. I do not think you will make it all the way to Clifden in one day without several pit stops at least one in Galway. You will want to explore Clifden a while, I would have to say it's a good three hours to Clifden which is stretching my limit. Galway is really busy and there is a lot of nightlife compared to Clifden. I don't know what people do there to tell you the truth because I am more into sketching and relaxing. Galway had wonderful restaurants and an art gallery. Art galleries are a treat in every town.
You may want to stay outside Galway, or in Bunratty if you get in late in the day and start fresh in the morning. Galway is certainly pleasant, busy but pleasant busy. Not half as busy as Limerick. Galway city centre is just one big square but the drive in is a little difficult. Lots of roundabouts but people were very friendly with directions. I haven't been to Salthill but would check it out.
Yes AbbeyGlen is tops,
Have a wonderful time,
Julie
It was more my mother who was concerned about the drinking and driving I think because she was worried about driving. She was very jumpy the first day when a bartender told us there were no laws about this. There is some concern when you are driving for the first time on the left side of the road, I think this was nerves only. I would only say be careful about driving after dark, or after you have been drinking because there is no way to get back to your hotel after you have been drinking except to drive or walk. It's pitch dark. A temptation which I did not fall into by drinking as little as possible or drinking in the hotel only. How much to drink and how to get home? This is a concern for us on vacation. I think the challenge is more for tourists not to drink and drive because they are on vacation and there are not many police cars anywhere. For that reason I liked less populated roads and didn't drive after dark. As a tourist I felt giddy already.
Ireland is health concious, we found a pub in Lisdoorvarna with wheat free dinners, and vegan options. Of course I had a regular bacon sandwich, but those options are there.
Mainly I was tired of driving but got stuck with most of it because everyone else wanted to drink. When I go back I will make sure to get the driving situation straightened out. I was very careful to avoid hitting bushes, so other occupants of the car did not get nervous. Others driving were not so sympathetic. We still lost our side mirrors (that was me). There are bumpier roads in the Burren than in the Connemara even with all the sheep in the road. Did I say that on N59 one nursed her two lambs in the middle of the road? I like sheep much more now, I don't think I can eat lamb for a while, if ever.
I would stick to driving only 1-3 hours a day. You could really stay in Clifden for a week, exploring the area. Good for horseback riding, boat tours, beautiful scenery for sketching and relaxing. I will upload photos soon and post link.
Ireland.com wasn't much help to me either, I found the Ireland.com booklet in a hotel in Westport.
I like Galway very much as a base. I do not think you will make it all the way to Clifden in one day without several pit stops at least one in Galway. You will want to explore Clifden a while, I would have to say it's a good three hours to Clifden which is stretching my limit. Galway is really busy and there is a lot of nightlife compared to Clifden. I don't know what people do there to tell you the truth because I am more into sketching and relaxing. Galway had wonderful restaurants and an art gallery. Art galleries are a treat in every town.
You may want to stay outside Galway, or in Bunratty if you get in late in the day and start fresh in the morning. Galway is certainly pleasant, busy but pleasant busy. Not half as busy as Limerick. Galway city centre is just one big square but the drive in is a little difficult. Lots of roundabouts but people were very friendly with directions. I haven't been to Salthill but would check it out.
Yes AbbeyGlen is tops,
Have a wonderful time,
Julie
May 28th, 2003 | 04:08 PM
#12
Joined: Jan 2003
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Hi Julie:
Thanks for the report. I just got back myself and will put together a report eventually.
Also have to agree about the drinking laws they being very strict. You do not, BTW have to have an international drivers lisence to drive there. Drunk driving is just as serious in the US. Doolin has three of four pubs, two or three with music in it. I thought McGanns was a better place to listen to music than the much more well known O'Connors. In O'Connor's the crowd was very noisy and the place was packed. Getting close enough to the musicians to hear them was impossible. I think that Doolin is good for one night, but I agree 2 is too much.
I also find the food to be very good in Ireland but it is going up in price. We found some form of chicken virtually everywhere we went. It's about the only meat my wife really likes and we never had a problem. Chicken Kiev is a standard and chicken curry shows up a lot too.
The good deals on food for lunch are still the toastis (sandwiches) which are usually under E5.00. The chessein Ireland is fantastic and I can taste a ham and cheese right now.
B&Bs are cheaper and usually nicer than hotels (IMO) but I'm not sure of the tax structure there for them. All prices include VAT and there are scams to get it back. Blarney Woolen Mills converts you purchases to dollars for you at about 6% over the exchange rate and they give you you VAT back at about 7.5%. I believe VAT is still 12.5% (though I think it went up on rental cars to 13.5), so the sheep aren't the only ones getting fleeced at the woolen mills.
You are one of the few that I have heard suggesting staying in Limerick. I would suggest Bunratty or Ennis or Corofin to name a few. Limerick is hard to drive around in and is just kind of a big city.
Oddly, and I think I'm the only one, I don't struggle with night driving there. I did the truly insane and went over Connor pass in the dark and added insult to injury by doing in fog thick as mud. It never really bothered me, but I took my time. I actually think that at night, you can see headlights comeing so you are warned that there is something around the bend. I wouldn't drive at night if I didn't know where I was going though.
American tourism is definitely down and I noticed a decrease in tourist buses. I did the RoK and only saw 2 or three buses. I cheated though and swung out to Valentia Island just at the point that the bulk of them would be passing. I don't think American's visit the SW anymore than any other nationality.
Glad you had such a great time. My report will probably be on a web page and I'll holler when it's up.
Bill
Thanks for the report. I just got back myself and will put together a report eventually.
Also have to agree about the drinking laws they being very strict. You do not, BTW have to have an international drivers lisence to drive there. Drunk driving is just as serious in the US. Doolin has three of four pubs, two or three with music in it. I thought McGanns was a better place to listen to music than the much more well known O'Connors. In O'Connor's the crowd was very noisy and the place was packed. Getting close enough to the musicians to hear them was impossible. I think that Doolin is good for one night, but I agree 2 is too much.
I also find the food to be very good in Ireland but it is going up in price. We found some form of chicken virtually everywhere we went. It's about the only meat my wife really likes and we never had a problem. Chicken Kiev is a standard and chicken curry shows up a lot too.
The good deals on food for lunch are still the toastis (sandwiches) which are usually under E5.00. The chessein Ireland is fantastic and I can taste a ham and cheese right now.
B&Bs are cheaper and usually nicer than hotels (IMO) but I'm not sure of the tax structure there for them. All prices include VAT and there are scams to get it back. Blarney Woolen Mills converts you purchases to dollars for you at about 6% over the exchange rate and they give you you VAT back at about 7.5%. I believe VAT is still 12.5% (though I think it went up on rental cars to 13.5), so the sheep aren't the only ones getting fleeced at the woolen mills.
You are one of the few that I have heard suggesting staying in Limerick. I would suggest Bunratty or Ennis or Corofin to name a few. Limerick is hard to drive around in and is just kind of a big city.
Oddly, and I think I'm the only one, I don't struggle with night driving there. I did the truly insane and went over Connor pass in the dark and added insult to injury by doing in fog thick as mud. It never really bothered me, but I took my time. I actually think that at night, you can see headlights comeing so you are warned that there is something around the bend. I wouldn't drive at night if I didn't know where I was going though.
American tourism is definitely down and I noticed a decrease in tourist buses. I did the RoK and only saw 2 or three buses. I cheated though and swung out to Valentia Island just at the point that the bulk of them would be passing. I don't think American's visit the SW anymore than any other nationality.
Glad you had such a great time. My report will probably be on a web page and I'll holler when it's up.
Bill
May 29th, 2003 | 05:55 AM
#13
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,635
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Like Bill ('post' immediately before this), I just got back from Ireland yesterday: with the weakness of the U.S. dollar against the euro, my trip became a 'super economy' thing on the fly. I had reservations at B&B's in Bangor Erris, Belmullet and Ballina (all County Mayo) and in Ennis (County Clare) - the one in Ballina is the best B&B I have experienced - it's called BrigOwn and it's on the Moy river Quay, a few doors from Crockett's on the Quay. Proprietress Marjorie Murrow Nolan writes cookbooks and has a local cooking show on the radio.
The very heavy Irish breakfasts do me until about 3:00 PM at which time I have a big dinner (usually the 'Special' at 7.95 or 8.95 Euro) In several cases it was roast prime rib of beef - very good! Deep fried Plaice was also very enjoyable.
I don't drive in Ireland: unless you are on a 'fly 'n drive' plan, many car rental companies won't rent to some over age-70. So I ride Bus Eireann and I hitch-hike.
I arrived at Shannon Tuesday, May 20 at about 8:35, took some Euros from the ATM, bought a (7 Euro) Eircom Phone Card) and caught the 9:35 BusEireann to Galway (via Ennis): dinner in Galway; 2:00 PM bus Galway-Ballina (there's not a good restaurant close to the Ballina bus station); 6:10 PM BusEireann Ballina to Bangor Erris where I stopped for the night at Evelyn Cosgrove's Hillcrest house B&B. Wed AM around 9:00 AM I hitched a ride to Belmullet with some very nice people from Conroe, Texas. They were headed for Carne Golf Links which I consider the best links course anywhere, so I showed them how to get there. Later I hitched a ride out to the course - it was raining, heavy! But the Texans went ahead and played in the rain. I played on Thursday: it wasn't raining but there were 'gale force' winds. Thursday night was music night at the Western Strands hotel, then Friday I caught the 9:15 AM BusEireann to Ballina, where I spent the weekend. Marjorie came down to the bus station in Ballina to pick me up and take me to her B&B. B&B operators often do that: the Texas people dropped me off in Belmullet and I had only to call for the B&B Operator to come and pick me up - they also took me to the bus stop when I left.
Sunday I hitched a ride to St. Muredachs Cathedral in Ballina for Mass; On the way back I arranged for a taxi to pick me up at the B&B at 8:00 AM Monday and take me to the Ballina bus station so I could catch the 8:35 AM bus for Galway (via Knock). My total ground transportation costs:
BusEireann 52 Euro
Taxis 27 Euro
It's not customary to 'tip' Taxi drivers in Ireland - I don't think they expect it.
My longest single hitch-hiking trip was from Bangor Erris to Belmullet (about 15km). I hitched to and from Carne Golf links twice (about 4km from town) and from the Quay into downtown Ballina once - no problem!
I was quite pleased with some things that had happened since my last trip: Sept., '02, I played Carne Golf links and fell in love with the course. But they had added some 'blacktop' buggy paths out on the course. I sent a message to the 'Captain' (President pro tem of the 'Board') telling him it was not right to do such a thing with Eddie Hackett's original layout. According to Board member Flaherty, the matter was taken up and voted on at a board meeting and the majority of the Board agreed with me. This year they are in the process of replacing the asphalt buggy paths with a local brown gravel that blends very nicely.
The very heavy Irish breakfasts do me until about 3:00 PM at which time I have a big dinner (usually the 'Special' at 7.95 or 8.95 Euro) In several cases it was roast prime rib of beef - very good! Deep fried Plaice was also very enjoyable.
I don't drive in Ireland: unless you are on a 'fly 'n drive' plan, many car rental companies won't rent to some over age-70. So I ride Bus Eireann and I hitch-hike.
I arrived at Shannon Tuesday, May 20 at about 8:35, took some Euros from the ATM, bought a (7 Euro) Eircom Phone Card) and caught the 9:35 BusEireann to Galway (via Ennis): dinner in Galway; 2:00 PM bus Galway-Ballina (there's not a good restaurant close to the Ballina bus station); 6:10 PM BusEireann Ballina to Bangor Erris where I stopped for the night at Evelyn Cosgrove's Hillcrest house B&B. Wed AM around 9:00 AM I hitched a ride to Belmullet with some very nice people from Conroe, Texas. They were headed for Carne Golf Links which I consider the best links course anywhere, so I showed them how to get there. Later I hitched a ride out to the course - it was raining, heavy! But the Texans went ahead and played in the rain. I played on Thursday: it wasn't raining but there were 'gale force' winds. Thursday night was music night at the Western Strands hotel, then Friday I caught the 9:15 AM BusEireann to Ballina, where I spent the weekend. Marjorie came down to the bus station in Ballina to pick me up and take me to her B&B. B&B operators often do that: the Texas people dropped me off in Belmullet and I had only to call for the B&B Operator to come and pick me up - they also took me to the bus stop when I left.
Sunday I hitched a ride to St. Muredachs Cathedral in Ballina for Mass; On the way back I arranged for a taxi to pick me up at the B&B at 8:00 AM Monday and take me to the Ballina bus station so I could catch the 8:35 AM bus for Galway (via Knock). My total ground transportation costs:
BusEireann 52 Euro
Taxis 27 Euro
It's not customary to 'tip' Taxi drivers in Ireland - I don't think they expect it.
My longest single hitch-hiking trip was from Bangor Erris to Belmullet (about 15km). I hitched to and from Carne Golf links twice (about 4km from town) and from the Quay into downtown Ballina once - no problem!
I was quite pleased with some things that had happened since my last trip: Sept., '02, I played Carne Golf links and fell in love with the course. But they had added some 'blacktop' buggy paths out on the course. I sent a message to the 'Captain' (President pro tem of the 'Board') telling him it was not right to do such a thing with Eddie Hackett's original layout. According to Board member Flaherty, the matter was taken up and voted on at a board meeting and the majority of the Board agreed with me. This year they are in the process of replacing the asphalt buggy paths with a local brown gravel that blends very nicely.
