We Didn't Drink ALL the Vino! Maitaitom's Italy Uncensored
Nov 16th, 2005 | 07:35 AM
#281
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,605
Likes: 0
Tom, thanks for getting us another terrific installment.
My husband was just complaining that he didn't have anything to read on the plane on Friday and I told him that I have one of the BEST reads of the year all printed out for him: your <i>great</i> report.
I can't wait to hear about Rome...(no pressure, really!)
My husband was just complaining that he didn't have anything to read on the plane on Friday and I told him that I have one of the BEST reads of the year all printed out for him: your <i>great</i> report.
I can't wait to hear about Rome...(no pressure, really!)
Nov 16th, 2005 | 08:53 AM
#282
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,179
Likes: 4
I'm not a big Trevor fan, Tom, so I don't really care what they do. I think he's long past his best and they need a closer who actually closes. [email protected] for more detailed discussion!
This report is really taking longer than the trip. I thought you were just joking! Keep going, and when you're finished, it'll be time for your next trip!
This report is really taking longer than the trip. I thought you were just joking! Keep going, and when you're finished, it'll be time for your next trip!
Nov 16th, 2005 | 11:48 AM
#285
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,647
Likes: 21
<b> DAY 19 - MEN OF ACCADEMIA, THE TINY SHIP WAS TOSSED, SINGING IN THE RAIN AND WHOSE PEN LEAKED ON THE SPAGHETTI? </b>
Over the years, Kim and I have had many a “Boys night out;” sporting events, bars, gambling and clubs that provide, ahem, adult entertainment. However, we had never had a “Boys morning out.” Today was going to be that day. But instead of clubbing, we were going to a museum. Yes, we are now officially old.
The afternoon before we had spotted a long line at Galleria dell’ Accademia, which we had wanted to see. “I wonder if there is a long line at the opening?” I pondered. Kim said he would give it a try if I wanted to get up early.
It seemed like a much better idea the previous day when I awoke a little after seven. The combination of Campari, vino and Singing Gondoliers were still dancing in my head when I rang Kim’s room. “Let’s go for it,” he said.
I forget if it opened at 8 or 8:15, but Kim and I were a few minutes early, nonetheless. There was one guy in line, so we ducked in a nearby cafe for a cappuccino, and were back in line for the opening. To avoid lines here, come early.
The Accademia was well worth the visit, and the audio guide covers the big-ticket paintings. It took us a little less than 90 minutes to go through the museum. Kim had taken a liking to the paintings of Bellini, but all I could think of when I saw his name was a peach drink, and that didn’t sound too good at 9 am.
We were done by 9:30, meaning that if we hustled we could still catch breakfast at La Calcina, and you know we couldn’t miss breakfast. Tracy and Mary were already seated when we rushed in for cappuccino and a sweet roll.
We had decided we were going to take the little-more-than-an-hour trip to Burano, the lace island. As we stepped outside, the skies opened and it began pouring.
Unfortunately, the previous evening after dinner, Tracy decided to give away one of our umbrellas to one of the Brits after dinner (obviously, those Singing Gondoliers caused a feeling of generosity). Luckily, the hotel has spares for their guests who over-imbibe and give away their worldly possessions.
We sloshed down to the Vaporetto stop, as water came up on the walkway. Yes, the weather started getting rough.
A few years ago, on a trip to Catalina, Mary and Kim found out that strong seas and their stomachs’ don’t mesh very well. As we stood on the platform waiting for the Vaporetto, I looked at Mary’s face. It looked whiter than one of those Venetian masks, and I had a feeling Burano was not in the cards for our friends. I think if we had gone on the Vaporetto, more than the tiny ship would have been tossed.
So much for the fearless crew of the Minnow and our three-hour tour of Burano.
For me, the rougher, the better (boat rides, of course). However, it did seem kind of dumb to take a one hour-plus boat ride when all you could see was a driving rain, so Burano will have to wait for another visit. The Professor and Ginger then headed for Piazza San Marco, while yours truly, Gilligan, and Mary Ann decided to go back to San Polo.
It is a fact; Venice is a blast in the rain. As we headed on the Vaporetto toward the Rialto Bridge, we noticed that the Ca Rezzonico, that we had visited the day before, was impossible to get to due to high water. We window-shopped for a while, but hunger once again set in (hey, I only had one sweet roll for breakfast).
I had read about a place called Cantina do Mori, which has been a bacari since the mid 1400s, so Tracy and I decided we’d eat there. It is said that Casanova hung out here, but I do not know if he said, "This vino rosso is better than sex."
We were the only Americans who occupied the place along with a bunch of Italians and a few Germans. This is one of those places where you eat cicchetti, which is basically a bunch of finger food that you have to eat a lot of to get full. But it was really good finger food.
We devoured some bruschetta pomodero, a wedge (or two) of pecorino, deep-fried, breaded eggplant, smoked salmon crostini, a crab claw (not a pretty sight), a potato/dried tomato skewer, crostini with zucchini and shrimp, along with salt cod mashed with olio and pepper on a crostini. We each had a glass of prosecco and a glass of vino rosso. There were no seats, so we occupied a position at the back bar.
Interestingly, all the Italians paid when they bought each item, while they just kept serving us different things as we ordered, which was often. I told you we were hungry! I guess I had an honest face.
Finally, we were ready to pay the bill, and I had no idea how much this going to be, but I thought it would be a lot because, as you can see, we didn’t skimp on drinks or food. Amazingly, the entire bill was only 26 Euros, which I felt was a bargain.
The atmosphere of this tiny place was also terrific. One of the guys behind the counter was going to be married soon, and the locals who came in kept buying him glasses of wine and giving him grief (as a once-future husband, you can tell what they’re talking about, no matter what the language).
We then started the soggy walk back toward Dorsoduro. Tracy bought some jewelry for friends, and then we stopped to look at a window of a cool, little shop that had a beautiful (I can’t believe what I am about to write) cat puppet. I can’t even blame it on the vino, because it looked so similar to our little orange tabby, that we immediately decided we had to buy it. Ok, maybe it was the vino. Thankfully, we still liked it when we unpacked it upon returning home.
Tracy and I had a great day walking in the rain, and experiencing Venice in that way is pretty enthralling. I think Venice is one of the few spots in the world where a rainy day can be just as fun, or even more fun, than a nice day.
Kim and Mary also had fun walking the streets and alleys of Venice. They had lunch at the Cantine del Vino Schiavi near our hotel, which they said was good. They also had a surprise for us.
They invited us to their room at the appointed 6 pm cocktail hour. There on their table was a Party-In-A-Box. Cheese, Campari, vino and pre-made Bellinis were all within our grasp. Afterward, there was only one more thing to do…go out to dinner.
We had made early reservations for Taverna San Trovaso. There are actually two of these restaurants. The more familiar one on the little canal was closed on Monday, but its sister restaurant was open.
It was communal seating, and this place was packed at just a little past 7 pm. The table next to us had ordered a little before us, and we were not sure where they were from, so when they got their multi-colored pasta dish with lobster, they didn’t look happy. She called the waiter over, and we could tell she wanted to send the plate back because it looked bad.
Fortunately, Tracy’s multi-colored pasta dish arrived about the same time, so once the woman realized that it was supposed to look that way, everything was fine.
Mary decided to be bold and went for the spaghetti in squid ink. It was not the most appetizing looking dish, I must say. Actually, it did look like a ballpoint pen had squirted black ink everywhere on the plate. It was at this moment, I was glad I ordered the veal limone.
Tracy and I ordered a round of Singing Gondoliers after dinner. The waiter, not knowing the name of this local drink had been changed, said, “How about a Sgroppino?” They’ll get used to our new name for it some day, I’m sure. The Singing Gondoliers here were frothier than La Calcina’s…and better (we are making a batch and bringing them down to Kim and Mary’s house on Thanksgiving…see I told you we still like each other).
When we got our bill, there was a little card saying you could pay in your local currency. After reading the boards, I know this was not what we wanted to do. The waiter never pushed it (and they had been very helpful and nice all evening long), so I didn’t say anything and we paid in Euros.
When we got back to the hotel, there was a little bottle of Campari and soda that had still not been opened. Knowing we did not want to pack it, I took one for the team and forced it down. Yeah, I didn’t think you’d buy that.
<b> TOMORROW – STRANGERS ON A TRAIN AND THE SHERPA, MAY I BUTT IN, “SORRY, BUT THE TAXI IS BROKEN,” THE GLORIOUS GALLERIA, THE FAKE TERRORIST ATTACK, AND NOT THE NINA OR THE PINTA BUT THE…. </b>
Over the years, Kim and I have had many a “Boys night out;” sporting events, bars, gambling and clubs that provide, ahem, adult entertainment. However, we had never had a “Boys morning out.” Today was going to be that day. But instead of clubbing, we were going to a museum. Yes, we are now officially old.
The afternoon before we had spotted a long line at Galleria dell’ Accademia, which we had wanted to see. “I wonder if there is a long line at the opening?” I pondered. Kim said he would give it a try if I wanted to get up early.
It seemed like a much better idea the previous day when I awoke a little after seven. The combination of Campari, vino and Singing Gondoliers were still dancing in my head when I rang Kim’s room. “Let’s go for it,” he said.
I forget if it opened at 8 or 8:15, but Kim and I were a few minutes early, nonetheless. There was one guy in line, so we ducked in a nearby cafe for a cappuccino, and were back in line for the opening. To avoid lines here, come early.
The Accademia was well worth the visit, and the audio guide covers the big-ticket paintings. It took us a little less than 90 minutes to go through the museum. Kim had taken a liking to the paintings of Bellini, but all I could think of when I saw his name was a peach drink, and that didn’t sound too good at 9 am.
We were done by 9:30, meaning that if we hustled we could still catch breakfast at La Calcina, and you know we couldn’t miss breakfast. Tracy and Mary were already seated when we rushed in for cappuccino and a sweet roll.
We had decided we were going to take the little-more-than-an-hour trip to Burano, the lace island. As we stepped outside, the skies opened and it began pouring.
Unfortunately, the previous evening after dinner, Tracy decided to give away one of our umbrellas to one of the Brits after dinner (obviously, those Singing Gondoliers caused a feeling of generosity). Luckily, the hotel has spares for their guests who over-imbibe and give away their worldly possessions.
We sloshed down to the Vaporetto stop, as water came up on the walkway. Yes, the weather started getting rough.
A few years ago, on a trip to Catalina, Mary and Kim found out that strong seas and their stomachs’ don’t mesh very well. As we stood on the platform waiting for the Vaporetto, I looked at Mary’s face. It looked whiter than one of those Venetian masks, and I had a feeling Burano was not in the cards for our friends. I think if we had gone on the Vaporetto, more than the tiny ship would have been tossed.
So much for the fearless crew of the Minnow and our three-hour tour of Burano.
For me, the rougher, the better (boat rides, of course). However, it did seem kind of dumb to take a one hour-plus boat ride when all you could see was a driving rain, so Burano will have to wait for another visit. The Professor and Ginger then headed for Piazza San Marco, while yours truly, Gilligan, and Mary Ann decided to go back to San Polo.
It is a fact; Venice is a blast in the rain. As we headed on the Vaporetto toward the Rialto Bridge, we noticed that the Ca Rezzonico, that we had visited the day before, was impossible to get to due to high water. We window-shopped for a while, but hunger once again set in (hey, I only had one sweet roll for breakfast).
I had read about a place called Cantina do Mori, which has been a bacari since the mid 1400s, so Tracy and I decided we’d eat there. It is said that Casanova hung out here, but I do not know if he said, "This vino rosso is better than sex."
We were the only Americans who occupied the place along with a bunch of Italians and a few Germans. This is one of those places where you eat cicchetti, which is basically a bunch of finger food that you have to eat a lot of to get full. But it was really good finger food.
We devoured some bruschetta pomodero, a wedge (or two) of pecorino, deep-fried, breaded eggplant, smoked salmon crostini, a crab claw (not a pretty sight), a potato/dried tomato skewer, crostini with zucchini and shrimp, along with salt cod mashed with olio and pepper on a crostini. We each had a glass of prosecco and a glass of vino rosso. There were no seats, so we occupied a position at the back bar.
Interestingly, all the Italians paid when they bought each item, while they just kept serving us different things as we ordered, which was often. I told you we were hungry! I guess I had an honest face.
Finally, we were ready to pay the bill, and I had no idea how much this going to be, but I thought it would be a lot because, as you can see, we didn’t skimp on drinks or food. Amazingly, the entire bill was only 26 Euros, which I felt was a bargain.
The atmosphere of this tiny place was also terrific. One of the guys behind the counter was going to be married soon, and the locals who came in kept buying him glasses of wine and giving him grief (as a once-future husband, you can tell what they’re talking about, no matter what the language).
We then started the soggy walk back toward Dorsoduro. Tracy bought some jewelry for friends, and then we stopped to look at a window of a cool, little shop that had a beautiful (I can’t believe what I am about to write) cat puppet. I can’t even blame it on the vino, because it looked so similar to our little orange tabby, that we immediately decided we had to buy it. Ok, maybe it was the vino. Thankfully, we still liked it when we unpacked it upon returning home.
Tracy and I had a great day walking in the rain, and experiencing Venice in that way is pretty enthralling. I think Venice is one of the few spots in the world where a rainy day can be just as fun, or even more fun, than a nice day.
Kim and Mary also had fun walking the streets and alleys of Venice. They had lunch at the Cantine del Vino Schiavi near our hotel, which they said was good. They also had a surprise for us.
They invited us to their room at the appointed 6 pm cocktail hour. There on their table was a Party-In-A-Box. Cheese, Campari, vino and pre-made Bellinis were all within our grasp. Afterward, there was only one more thing to do…go out to dinner.
We had made early reservations for Taverna San Trovaso. There are actually two of these restaurants. The more familiar one on the little canal was closed on Monday, but its sister restaurant was open.
It was communal seating, and this place was packed at just a little past 7 pm. The table next to us had ordered a little before us, and we were not sure where they were from, so when they got their multi-colored pasta dish with lobster, they didn’t look happy. She called the waiter over, and we could tell she wanted to send the plate back because it looked bad.
Fortunately, Tracy’s multi-colored pasta dish arrived about the same time, so once the woman realized that it was supposed to look that way, everything was fine.
Mary decided to be bold and went for the spaghetti in squid ink. It was not the most appetizing looking dish, I must say. Actually, it did look like a ballpoint pen had squirted black ink everywhere on the plate. It was at this moment, I was glad I ordered the veal limone.
Tracy and I ordered a round of Singing Gondoliers after dinner. The waiter, not knowing the name of this local drink had been changed, said, “How about a Sgroppino?” They’ll get used to our new name for it some day, I’m sure. The Singing Gondoliers here were frothier than La Calcina’s…and better (we are making a batch and bringing them down to Kim and Mary’s house on Thanksgiving…see I told you we still like each other).
When we got our bill, there was a little card saying you could pay in your local currency. After reading the boards, I know this was not what we wanted to do. The waiter never pushed it (and they had been very helpful and nice all evening long), so I didn’t say anything and we paid in Euros.
When we got back to the hotel, there was a little bottle of Campari and soda that had still not been opened. Knowing we did not want to pack it, I took one for the team and forced it down. Yeah, I didn’t think you’d buy that.
<b> TOMORROW – STRANGERS ON A TRAIN AND THE SHERPA, MAY I BUTT IN, “SORRY, BUT THE TAXI IS BROKEN,” THE GLORIOUS GALLERIA, THE FAKE TERRORIST ATTACK, AND NOT THE NINA OR THE PINTA BUT THE…. </b>
Nov 16th, 2005 | 01:37 PM
#286
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 0
Tom, squid ink pasta is an absolute taste sensation - really! It's delicious! I first had it in a tiny little tratt. at the end of Zattere pier - squid in it's ink with rigattoni. Discovered it only because I asked the waiter to surprise me & give me whatever they were having for their own lunch. Do try it next time you're in Italy 
Nov 16th, 2005 | 04:11 PM
#289
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,647
Likes: 21
I'm glad you people know what appeals to me. No one has said, "Oh Tom, it's so wonderful you loved Venice in the rain." Nope, you guys want drink recipes and pictures of Cat puppets! Purrfect.
I will take a picture of the cat puppet and put it on my blog once I finish the three Rome installments. As for the Singing Gondolier, I will post below what I found online, and I have done some tweaking to it.
Singing Gondolier (aka Sgroppino)
2 cups (16 oz) lemon sorbet, softened
2 Tbsp vodka
1/3 cupProsecco
4 Tbsp cream or half-and-half
Here is what I have done. I can't just put two Tbsp of vodka in anything. You don't want the vodka to overpower either. I used four Tbsps. and one more tblspoon of cream (if not a vodka person, it is not mandatory to put it in). You really shouldn't taste vodka anyway (I just like knowing it is there)
Melt the lemon sorbet until soft, and put ingredientsl in a blender. Blend until it becomes somewhat liquidy (I don't think that's a word, but who cares). Then comes the maitaitom method to make it frothy.
As it blends, open the little top of the blender and add the white of one egg as it continues to blend. Blend a little longer.
Pour immediately after blending or the mixture will separate. Drink perfection is an ongoing process, so should anyone have a better recipe, I am open to ideas. It is a perfect after dinner, stomach soothing drink.
OK, enough of this, I have to go back and look at my Rome notes.
I will take a picture of the cat puppet and put it on my blog once I finish the three Rome installments. As for the Singing Gondolier, I will post below what I found online, and I have done some tweaking to it.
Singing Gondolier (aka Sgroppino)
2 cups (16 oz) lemon sorbet, softened
2 Tbsp vodka
1/3 cupProsecco
4 Tbsp cream or half-and-half
Here is what I have done. I can't just put two Tbsp of vodka in anything. You don't want the vodka to overpower either. I used four Tbsps. and one more tblspoon of cream (if not a vodka person, it is not mandatory to put it in). You really shouldn't taste vodka anyway (I just like knowing it is there)
Melt the lemon sorbet until soft, and put ingredientsl in a blender. Blend until it becomes somewhat liquidy (I don't think that's a word, but who cares). Then comes the maitaitom method to make it frothy.
As it blends, open the little top of the blender and add the white of one egg as it continues to blend. Blend a little longer.
Pour immediately after blending or the mixture will separate. Drink perfection is an ongoing process, so should anyone have a better recipe, I am open to ideas. It is a perfect after dinner, stomach soothing drink.
OK, enough of this, I have to go back and look at my Rome notes.
Nov 16th, 2005 | 04:33 PM
#290
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
I want to write to you about Pitigliano. I own three small books by Edda Servi Machlin. "Servi" is the Italian word for "slaves". Her ancestors were among the Jewish slaves forced from Jerusalem in 70 AD when the Hebrew temple was destroyed by the Romans. Servi-Machlin has written 3 books, one is a memoir, "Child of the Ghetto, and two are cookbooks: "The Classic Cuisine of the Italian Jews I and II." She was born in the ancient Jewish quarter of Pitigliano where her father was the chief Rabbi. Pitigliano was known in Italy as "Little Jerusalem." She spent 1943-1944, during the Nazi period in hiding as a partisan and emigrated to the USA where she now lives in NYC. I highly recommend the books because they are filled with the little known history of Pitigliano during this wartime period. She writes about these Italian Jews who had 2000 years of Italian history before they faced the Nazis. This is a fascinating period of history and I know of no other American writer who has experienced it first hand from her unique Tuscan background.
Nov 16th, 2005 | 05:13 PM
#291
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Maitaitom: you are the best travel writer ever. - it kills me cuz I try to do the same for our local rag. However, Kudoes to you - I and my DH are just back from Italy, mostly Montecatini and 9 days in Rome, so can't wait for the rest of your tour.
I have spent LOTS of time in the val d'Orcia, and love it. Iris Origo's daughter, Benedetta still runs La Foce, just across the valley from San Quirico, and the gardens there are spectacular. Too bad you didn't know to take Tracy there. SeaUrchin is right , they rent villas and apts. at La Foce, a great way to spend time in the val d'Orcia. We've done it three times, try it sometime. Next May, Venice, so I'm printing out your wonderful report. Many thanks. Keep it up. We also spend some time every winter in Coronado, so do you have any great restaurants in San Diego to talk about? maybe on a different thread? also how do we get to your Blog with your photos???
I have spent LOTS of time in the val d'Orcia, and love it. Iris Origo's daughter, Benedetta still runs La Foce, just across the valley from San Quirico, and the gardens there are spectacular. Too bad you didn't know to take Tracy there. SeaUrchin is right , they rent villas and apts. at La Foce, a great way to spend time in the val d'Orcia. We've done it three times, try it sometime. Next May, Venice, so I'm printing out your wonderful report. Many thanks. Keep it up. We also spend some time every winter in Coronado, so do you have any great restaurants in San Diego to talk about? maybe on a different thread? also how do we get to your Blog with your photos???
Nov 17th, 2005 | 08:06 AM
#293
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Great report!! Just discovered it via the Fodor's newsletter and read it all this morning (couldn't stop!) We visit Italy often, including many of the places you went. I smiled in recognition and also laughed out loud more than once. I love your attitude. Can't wait to hear about Rome.
Nov 17th, 2005 | 08:38 AM
#295
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,647
Likes: 21
That's funny that it would be under the heading
Travel Horror Stories since the trip was not a horror at all (well except for that pesky gas thing). Maybe they want to highlight that when little (or big) things do go array on vacation, a little bit of humor goes a long way in making them no big deal.
betsys, the blog will be at
http://travelswithmaitaitom.typepad.com/travels/
(takes about 30 seconds for all pictures to load)
Right now, my 2003 trip (with photos, including the lovely Tracy) to France, Germany, Switzerland and Italy is up. Once I finish Rome and end this report (hopefully soon), I will clean up the spelling and post this report and pictures at the above site. Thanks for all the comments.
Travel Horror Stories since the trip was not a horror at all (well except for that pesky gas thing). Maybe they want to highlight that when little (or big) things do go array on vacation, a little bit of humor goes a long way in making them no big deal.
betsys, the blog will be at
http://travelswithmaitaitom.typepad.com/travels/
(takes about 30 seconds for all pictures to load)
Right now, my 2003 trip (with photos, including the lovely Tracy) to France, Germany, Switzerland and Italy is up. Once I finish Rome and end this report (hopefully soon), I will clean up the spelling and post this report and pictures at the above site. Thanks for all the comments.
Nov 17th, 2005 | 01:03 PM
#297
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,647
Likes: 21
<b> DAY 20 – STRANGERS ON A TRAIN AND THE SHERPA, MAY I BUTT IN, “SORRY, BUT THE TAXI IS BROKEN,” THE GLORIOUS GALLERIA, THE FAKE TERRORIST ATTACK, AND NOT THE NINA OR THE PINTA BUT THE…. </b>
When the phone rang a little after 4:30 am, I turned on the light and gazed at my wife, who even though she had her eyes closed, was giving me the look. “Why did you book such an early train?” she asked. There are no good answers at 4:30 am.
The four of us showered (not all together, this is a family post), and were ready for the water taxi at 5:45 am (I need a long shower at 4:30 in the morning).
The water taxi from La Calcina to the train station takes about 15 minutes, and, with tip, was about 70 euros. The skies were clearing, and we saw a few people taking early morning strolls. We guessed they had just arrived and their body clocks were off, but maybe they were just enjoying the incredible Venetian serenity of early morning.
Once again, I had purchased first class e-tickets for our train ride to Rome (via Florence). We left at 6:30 and were scheduled to arrive in Rome a little after 11. Tracy and I sat across from each other, and seated next to us were a couple of very good looking young women with bare midriffs (not that I noticed). Once again, Tracy gave me the look, which set a new European record of two “looks” before 7 am. Across the aisle, Kim and Mary just laughed.
Although I love driving in Europe, I do enjoy train travel. It was a good place to catch up on my notes, get in some reading and occasionally ogle the women next to me. The best part was that my three traveling companions were not in the mood for coffee, so they all ordered espressos for me. By the time we hit the Rome Termini station (4 1/2 hours and seven espressos later), I don’t believe I was able to blink.
Next, I made a husbandly faux pas of planetary proportion. As I was getting our luggage down from the rack, I saw my new girlfriends were in need of help. I started loading Tracy up with our luggage, and then gallantly took the girls’ luggage off the rack and handed each of them their suitcase.
I then turned to Tracy who had two suitcases hanging around her neck and shoulders, and one in each hand, and she did not look too pleased with me. She said, “What am I, your Sherpa?” I thought about doing a little Tenzing Norgay humor, bit immediately thought better of it.
We headed to the taxi stand and waited for a cab to drive us to the hotel Santa Maria in Trastevere. We were first in line when the taxi pulled up, and a couple proceeded to butt in front of us giving us a tale of woe in Italian (he looked like a student saying the dog ate his homework). I was about to get in a “discussion” with the gentleman when the taxi driver got out of his car and started yelling at the guy, who departed immediately.
The journey wound through the streets of Rome, and when we hit Trastevere, we were a little concerned. As I was to find out, Trastevere is similar to Campari, as it is also an acquired taste. There was tons of graffiti and it is not the cleanest place in the world. “What have I booked?” I thought.
We wound through alleys that didn’t seem able to accommodate two bicycles, much less one taxicab. Yet, in a few moments, we were at the gate of our new oasis, the Hotel Santa Maria.
We loved this hotel, too, and there is no doubt that it caters to an American clientele. The afternoon spread, put out about 5:30 pm is fantastic, the breakfast includes eggs and the people at the desk are more than helpful. The rooms are set up around a courtyard, and there was a bar for those who partake in wine, Campari and Prosecco drinking.
The hotel recommended a little place in the tiny square around the corner, and we had a nice lunch (it had been our first day without breakfast, except for my seven espressos). When we got back to the hotel, they called a taxi for us, because I had booked online 3 pm reservations for the Galleria Borghese.
This is one of those places they tell you to get to early to show your reservation so you can pick up your tickets. As usual, I gave us extra time, since I hate being late. As we drove down a Rome street, the taxi abruptly stopped. “Sorry, the taxi is broken,” our cabby said. “”You must get out and find another cab.” This is why you leave early.
Luckily for us, a taxi deposited someone only ten feet behind us, so we started to climb in. He wasn’t going to let us in, because he thought we were bypassing the taxi in front of us. When I told him the taxi was broken, he smiled and let us in.
We still arrived there in plenty of time, received our tickets and went to the entrance. We were first in line, and although many reports say to go upstairs to the paintings first, we did not. Tracy said she could have spent the entire time in the first room, with its incredible ceilings and walls.
There are some incredible sculptures on the first floor, my favorite being Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne, but I was completely blown away by many of them. As usual, the audio guide, to me, is a must. Although you have two hours to go through the museum, it took us a little less than 90 minutes to see both floors.
We then walked through the park, down a street to the Spanish Steps to the Trevi Fountain and finally to the Pantheon (nothing but net). That tired us out, so we stopped at the Campo de’ Fiore for cocktails (sometimes this seemed like a trip perfect for The Thin Man).
We walked back to the Hotel Santa Maria, and Dan and Linda greeted us at the hotel bar (I know you’re shocked). It was Happy Hour, Roman-style. Per Tracy’s notes: “It is a lovely presentation. The spread includes, bruschetta with pomodoro, mushroom pastries, a bowl of olives, pecorino with chili peppers, pizza bread with dried tomatoes and anchovies, caprese salad and much more.”
During Happy Hour Dan and Linda told us about their journey to the hotel the previous day. When they told the taxi driver at Termini Station they needed to get to the Hotel Santa Maria, the guy said he could not take them there. “Terrorist drill,” he said. It seemed the day Dan and Linda arrived, Rome was preparing for a terrorist attack at various venues in the city, so it was difficult for taxis to navigate the streets of Rom (like other days are a piece of cake).
They were told to take a bus that dropped them off in Trastevere, which they did. Unfortunately they did not have a map to the hotel, so it was sort of hit and miss on where to go. Then, it started pouring, and they ducked into an enoteca (any port or sherry in a storm), and started cursing Tuscan Tom’s Tours. “Where has he put us?” they asked. “What kind of area is this?”
A little digression. Kim, Mary, Tracy and I had been to Rome before, so we thought about Dan and Linda arriving in Trastevere the day before (although we did not know the entire story, of course). We even said, “Boy, this might be a little different for someone who had never seen the city before. They are probably wondering why we booked a hotel in this area.” Turned out, we were right.
Fortunately for Dan and Linda, someone knew where the hotel was, lead them to it, and they loved the hotel. Dan and Linda walked all over Rome later that day and said they had a great time. They also liked the Trastevere area. They also raved about the enoteca where they sat out the storm and said we had to go there later. It turned out that this little enoteca had the best dessert I tasted on the trip (more later).
Kim and I went to the desk at the hotel to get a restaurant recommendation, and the girl behind the desk was stunningly beautiful. I had already accumulated enough wives (and trouble) on the trip, so Kim said she could be his new wife. When I told Tracy (still not quite over the Sherpa episode), she said, “Great maybe Kim can have a double wedding with you and the Piccolo Oliveta girl, but remember, Mary and I get all the property.” Nothing like a wife to spoil a perfectly good middle-aged man’s fantasy.
We had a good, but not spectacular dinner. Tracy and Mary then called it a night. The rest of us went to Dan and Linda’s wine place, the Enoteca Trastevere, and sat outside enjoying vino and the most spectacular dessert on earth. The enoteca had a chocolate, cinnamon dessert that is hard to describe except to say I nearly licked the plate clean to get every last morsel. I knew it was bad when Dan said, “Tom, you have chocolate on your nose.”
We headed back to the hotel, bid farewell to Linda, and the three boys went off on our own. We had one cocktail (I made the mistake of ordering a brave bull that nearly killed me), and we started back toward the hotel. It was after midnight when we hit the happening Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. There were fire dancers and other street people doing their thing around the fountain. After nearly a day here (more for Dan and Linda), we decided we really liked Trastevere, warts and all.
Kim and I had rooms next to each, and Tracy answered my knock immediately. Mary, on the other hand, did not answer Kim’s knock on the door. The window was open, and we tried to get her up, but not wanting to be loud for those nested in their beds, we could not roust Mary from her deep sleep. Could it be another Ambien and wine episode? Fortunately, it was not. She just happened to be out colder than Robert Downey Jr. on a drug binge.
Finally, Tracy called Mary’s room, and after numerous rings, a very tired voice answered, and Kim had a place to sleep for the night. No matter what happens during the day, we also end up with the correct wives.
<b> TOMORROW – TOM’S TOURS HITS A SNAG, IS NERO NEAR, A FUNNY THING HAPPENED ON THE WAY THROUGH THE FORUM, A COLOSSEO SHORT CUT, THE DEAD POPE, NEARLY A DEAD HUSBAND, AND A MIME IS A TERRIBLE THING TO WASTE (ALTHOUGH I WOULD HAVE LIKED TO) </b>
When the phone rang a little after 4:30 am, I turned on the light and gazed at my wife, who even though she had her eyes closed, was giving me the look. “Why did you book such an early train?” she asked. There are no good answers at 4:30 am.
The four of us showered (not all together, this is a family post), and were ready for the water taxi at 5:45 am (I need a long shower at 4:30 in the morning).
The water taxi from La Calcina to the train station takes about 15 minutes, and, with tip, was about 70 euros. The skies were clearing, and we saw a few people taking early morning strolls. We guessed they had just arrived and their body clocks were off, but maybe they were just enjoying the incredible Venetian serenity of early morning.
Once again, I had purchased first class e-tickets for our train ride to Rome (via Florence). We left at 6:30 and were scheduled to arrive in Rome a little after 11. Tracy and I sat across from each other, and seated next to us were a couple of very good looking young women with bare midriffs (not that I noticed). Once again, Tracy gave me the look, which set a new European record of two “looks” before 7 am. Across the aisle, Kim and Mary just laughed.
Although I love driving in Europe, I do enjoy train travel. It was a good place to catch up on my notes, get in some reading and occasionally ogle the women next to me. The best part was that my three traveling companions were not in the mood for coffee, so they all ordered espressos for me. By the time we hit the Rome Termini station (4 1/2 hours and seven espressos later), I don’t believe I was able to blink.
Next, I made a husbandly faux pas of planetary proportion. As I was getting our luggage down from the rack, I saw my new girlfriends were in need of help. I started loading Tracy up with our luggage, and then gallantly took the girls’ luggage off the rack and handed each of them their suitcase.
I then turned to Tracy who had two suitcases hanging around her neck and shoulders, and one in each hand, and she did not look too pleased with me. She said, “What am I, your Sherpa?” I thought about doing a little Tenzing Norgay humor, bit immediately thought better of it.
We headed to the taxi stand and waited for a cab to drive us to the hotel Santa Maria in Trastevere. We were first in line when the taxi pulled up, and a couple proceeded to butt in front of us giving us a tale of woe in Italian (he looked like a student saying the dog ate his homework). I was about to get in a “discussion” with the gentleman when the taxi driver got out of his car and started yelling at the guy, who departed immediately.
The journey wound through the streets of Rome, and when we hit Trastevere, we were a little concerned. As I was to find out, Trastevere is similar to Campari, as it is also an acquired taste. There was tons of graffiti and it is not the cleanest place in the world. “What have I booked?” I thought.
We wound through alleys that didn’t seem able to accommodate two bicycles, much less one taxicab. Yet, in a few moments, we were at the gate of our new oasis, the Hotel Santa Maria.
We loved this hotel, too, and there is no doubt that it caters to an American clientele. The afternoon spread, put out about 5:30 pm is fantastic, the breakfast includes eggs and the people at the desk are more than helpful. The rooms are set up around a courtyard, and there was a bar for those who partake in wine, Campari and Prosecco drinking.
The hotel recommended a little place in the tiny square around the corner, and we had a nice lunch (it had been our first day without breakfast, except for my seven espressos). When we got back to the hotel, they called a taxi for us, because I had booked online 3 pm reservations for the Galleria Borghese.
This is one of those places they tell you to get to early to show your reservation so you can pick up your tickets. As usual, I gave us extra time, since I hate being late. As we drove down a Rome street, the taxi abruptly stopped. “Sorry, the taxi is broken,” our cabby said. “”You must get out and find another cab.” This is why you leave early.
Luckily for us, a taxi deposited someone only ten feet behind us, so we started to climb in. He wasn’t going to let us in, because he thought we were bypassing the taxi in front of us. When I told him the taxi was broken, he smiled and let us in.
We still arrived there in plenty of time, received our tickets and went to the entrance. We were first in line, and although many reports say to go upstairs to the paintings first, we did not. Tracy said she could have spent the entire time in the first room, with its incredible ceilings and walls.
There are some incredible sculptures on the first floor, my favorite being Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne, but I was completely blown away by many of them. As usual, the audio guide, to me, is a must. Although you have two hours to go through the museum, it took us a little less than 90 minutes to see both floors.
We then walked through the park, down a street to the Spanish Steps to the Trevi Fountain and finally to the Pantheon (nothing but net). That tired us out, so we stopped at the Campo de’ Fiore for cocktails (sometimes this seemed like a trip perfect for The Thin Man).
We walked back to the Hotel Santa Maria, and Dan and Linda greeted us at the hotel bar (I know you’re shocked). It was Happy Hour, Roman-style. Per Tracy’s notes: “It is a lovely presentation. The spread includes, bruschetta with pomodoro, mushroom pastries, a bowl of olives, pecorino with chili peppers, pizza bread with dried tomatoes and anchovies, caprese salad and much more.”
During Happy Hour Dan and Linda told us about their journey to the hotel the previous day. When they told the taxi driver at Termini Station they needed to get to the Hotel Santa Maria, the guy said he could not take them there. “Terrorist drill,” he said. It seemed the day Dan and Linda arrived, Rome was preparing for a terrorist attack at various venues in the city, so it was difficult for taxis to navigate the streets of Rom (like other days are a piece of cake).
They were told to take a bus that dropped them off in Trastevere, which they did. Unfortunately they did not have a map to the hotel, so it was sort of hit and miss on where to go. Then, it started pouring, and they ducked into an enoteca (any port or sherry in a storm), and started cursing Tuscan Tom’s Tours. “Where has he put us?” they asked. “What kind of area is this?”
A little digression. Kim, Mary, Tracy and I had been to Rome before, so we thought about Dan and Linda arriving in Trastevere the day before (although we did not know the entire story, of course). We even said, “Boy, this might be a little different for someone who had never seen the city before. They are probably wondering why we booked a hotel in this area.” Turned out, we were right.
Fortunately for Dan and Linda, someone knew where the hotel was, lead them to it, and they loved the hotel. Dan and Linda walked all over Rome later that day and said they had a great time. They also liked the Trastevere area. They also raved about the enoteca where they sat out the storm and said we had to go there later. It turned out that this little enoteca had the best dessert I tasted on the trip (more later).
Kim and I went to the desk at the hotel to get a restaurant recommendation, and the girl behind the desk was stunningly beautiful. I had already accumulated enough wives (and trouble) on the trip, so Kim said she could be his new wife. When I told Tracy (still not quite over the Sherpa episode), she said, “Great maybe Kim can have a double wedding with you and the Piccolo Oliveta girl, but remember, Mary and I get all the property.” Nothing like a wife to spoil a perfectly good middle-aged man’s fantasy.
We had a good, but not spectacular dinner. Tracy and Mary then called it a night. The rest of us went to Dan and Linda’s wine place, the Enoteca Trastevere, and sat outside enjoying vino and the most spectacular dessert on earth. The enoteca had a chocolate, cinnamon dessert that is hard to describe except to say I nearly licked the plate clean to get every last morsel. I knew it was bad when Dan said, “Tom, you have chocolate on your nose.”
We headed back to the hotel, bid farewell to Linda, and the three boys went off on our own. We had one cocktail (I made the mistake of ordering a brave bull that nearly killed me), and we started back toward the hotel. It was after midnight when we hit the happening Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. There were fire dancers and other street people doing their thing around the fountain. After nearly a day here (more for Dan and Linda), we decided we really liked Trastevere, warts and all.
Kim and I had rooms next to each, and Tracy answered my knock immediately. Mary, on the other hand, did not answer Kim’s knock on the door. The window was open, and we tried to get her up, but not wanting to be loud for those nested in their beds, we could not roust Mary from her deep sleep. Could it be another Ambien and wine episode? Fortunately, it was not. She just happened to be out colder than Robert Downey Jr. on a drug binge.
Finally, Tracy called Mary’s room, and after numerous rings, a very tired voice answered, and Kim had a place to sleep for the night. No matter what happens during the day, we also end up with the correct wives.
<b> TOMORROW – TOM’S TOURS HITS A SNAG, IS NERO NEAR, A FUNNY THING HAPPENED ON THE WAY THROUGH THE FORUM, A COLOSSEO SHORT CUT, THE DEAD POPE, NEARLY A DEAD HUSBAND, AND A MIME IS A TERRIBLE THING TO WASTE (ALTHOUGH I WOULD HAVE LIKED TO) </b>
