We Didn't Drink ALL the Vino! Maitaitom's Italy Uncensored
Oct 31st, 2005 | 11:39 AM
#222
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6,024
Likes: 0
I forgot to ask: where does one sign up for Tuscan Tom's Eastern European Adventure? I might be done paying college tuition by then. The one left in college had her own excellent adventure in the Czech Republic and Croatia a few years ago and we think it's our turn.
Oct 31st, 2005 | 02:38 PM
#223
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,647
Likes: 21
<b> DAY 15 - LEAN TO THE LEFT, LEAN TO THE RIGHT, "ARE YOU TALKING TO ME?", NO CHICKEN SANDWICHES, SOME DEAD MEDICIS AND, “OH NO, NOT ANOTHER IRISH PUB!” </b>
This was the morning that I had pre-reserved an 11:40 am climbing of The Leaning Tower of Pisa. The plan was for the four of us to take the 8:27 train from Florence that got in to Pisa at 9:30. At 7 am, I realized that there were only going to be three of us, since Tracy had the Mary/Alexandra cough (though not nearly as bad).
Tracy decided to relax for part of the day in an attempt to nip her illness in the bud, so she decided to stay behind. “I’ve been to Pisa and can live without it.” Since there was still a week to go on the trip, she thought it would be a good idea, and, as it turned out, it was.
One of my idiosyncrasies (one of many) is that I am a freak about not being late. I tend to get to places too early, but I figure it’s better being too early than too late. Fortunately Kim and Mary know that about me, so they noticed that, as we were having a cappuccino at The THG, I was getting a little antsy about departing for the train station to get our tickets and make the train (although I think Kim likes me to sweat just a little bit for amusement).
We walked (briskly) to the station, and, of course, we got there early (sorry K&M, you were right). We got the tickets, but I had forgotten that the train station sometimes plays pranks with overly time-conscious travelers such as myself. 8:10 (no track number). 8:15 (no track number). 8:20 (no track number). I know that the trains run on time, so where do we go? As usual, my worries are stupid since we have plenty of time once they announce the track number.
Two years ago, Tracy and I had driven to Pisa, which is why I decided on the train. On that journey, Tracy and I drove through the maze of streets in Pisa following phantom signs to the Campo dei Miracoli. It was a miracoli we ever found it. I didn’t have a good impression of Pisa on that trip.
On this trip, the train arrived at 9:30 and it was an easy 20-minute walk to the Campo dei Miracoli. When not trying to negotiate one-way streets and nearly maiming pedestrians, one gets a different perspective of a place, and my thoughts about Pisa are a little different now. Pisa wasn’t so bad after all.
The last time we walked in, all the booths selling Leaning Tower crap kind of cheapened the experience, so I warned Kim and Mary to just look at the Campo and imagine how beautiful this whole area was before tourism. We walked by a restaurant where a bird had crapped on a guy’s shirt on our trip in 2003 (ah, some memories just never leave you), and we were in the Campo.
I brought the printed proof of receipt to the ticket offices of Opera della Primaziale Pisa and they gave us our tickets, and we all bought the combo ticket for the Duomo and the Baptistery. The interior has a neat Pisano pulpit and a large baptismal font. We were told that, if you count the statue on top of the Baptistery, the building is actually taller than the Leaning Tower. Useless trivia, but good cocktail party fodder.
Then we visited the Duomo. For some reason, we got obsessed with finding “Henry’s Tomb”, the tomb of Emperor Henry VII (whoever he was), which was one of the pieces that survived a 16th century fire that destroyed a lot of the Duomo’s art works.
Near a 14th century pulpit (which obviously survived the fire, too) is a bronze lamp that, according to legend, favorite Pisa son, Galileo, started staring upon one day at Mass (obviously bored by the length of the service). Just like me after a few bottles of Chianti, the lamp started to sway back and forth. This is supposed to have given him the idea for the Pendulum. Since then, some know-it-all Pisans have argued that the lamp was cast in 1586, a few years after his discovery, but we went with the original Galileo story.
We still had some time before the big climb, so we decided that we needed more caffeine and downed a cappuccino. It was then time for the climb to the top of the Torre Pendante, and I had forgotten about Mary’s fear of heights.
Mary, like myself, is more a Type A personality, meaning we tend to yap a lot. Fortunately, our respective spouses are more the B variety and usually just shake their heads as we banter on. Today, Mary, feeling a little uncomfortable as we started the climb upward, began bantering…with herself.
I must admit, it was an odd feeling listing to one side or another as we walked around and around. I was right behind Kim, and we could Mary talking a blue streak, singing songs and just staying busy talking about nothing in particular. I said, “Kim, who is she talking to?”
He was laughing when he said something like, “Oh, no one in particular.” Our spouses did a lot of laughing, although they were usually really laughing with us…weren’t they?” Well, we made it to the first landing with no problem.
You could see, where if it was slippery, there are a couple of places with any kind of misstep, you could pull a Kim Novak in Vertigo and become a minced Pisa Pie. Fortunately, we safely made the top of the tower, Mary was calm (sort of) and we took some fantastic pictures. It was cool to look across at the difference in height, but unfortunately that differential didn’t show up that great in the otherwise terrific photos we took.
Just before noon, a voice came over the speakers saying in various languages that the bells are going to ring, it’s going to be real loud and don’t be so scared you fly off the tower. They were loud, and we are still here to tell about it. The tour is limited to 1/2 an hour, and the groupings are limited to how many people who can go each trip.
ALERT: Read the signs before you go that say “no backpacks and purses.” They mean it. Mary had deposited her purse, but a couple of people with daypacks obviously did not think the signs were intended for them and did not heed the signs.. They did not make our tour, and were not in the next group (probably full). I don’t know if they ever made it up to the top, but they are strict about that detail.
We made it to the station for the 1 pm train (after a gelato stop) and were back in Florence a little after two. Kim and Mary went off on their own, but I went in search of the greatest chicken sandwiches on the face of the earth at Caffe Giacosa, off the Via Tornabuoni.
This was Tracy and my fourth visit to Florence, and these morsels from heaven are the tastiest, freshest little sandwiches ever made. We have them every time we are here, and this seemed like a nice opportunity for me to do something nice for my wife. I thought, “Tracy will say I am the greatest, most considerate husband on earth (well, she could lie) when I bring these back for her.”
To my horror, they were sold out. Panic set in, because we only had one day left in Florence and had dreamed about these sandwiches from the time we got to Italy (sure that’s weird, but damnit these are GOOD sandwiches!). “We usually put them out at 11,” the woman said. I made a mental note that we should not forget to be here tomorrow morning at 11 am. Remember, however, I am the guy who put Super Gas in a Diesel.
Back at the hotel, Tracy was feeling better (even without sandwiches) and had even washed some of our clothes so we didn’t have to look like transients by the time we reached Venice. That afternoon, the four of us went over to the Cappelle Medicee to see the tombs of the dead Medicis. When I visited this museum in 1996 with Tracy, there was some bizarre fashion show going on and the entire inside was full of Christian Dior crap (sorry fashion people, I’m more into dead bodies and stuff). I was looking forward to seeing the place uncluttered.
So, of course, when we get inside we see that the whole place is under scaffolding, and some of the statues have been removed for renovation. It was still interesting, but not great.
We walked across the Arno to the district of Oltrarno where we have purchased historical pieces of art before. Luckily, we didn’t see anything we wanted, so after the four of us window-shopped, we looked at our watches and said (all together) “Cocktail Hour!”
I heard Kim laughing, and knowing that neither Mary nor I had not bantered for minutes (ok seconds), it could only be one other thing…he had found another Irish pub.
Yes, soon we found ourselves drinking Campari, Guiness, Jack Daniels and Scotch (not all in one drink fortunately), at Irish pub Numero Due. We met some guy who, after hearing we had gone to Pisa, said he was an engineer, and proceeded to tell us that a number of tourists fall to their deaths from the tower each year. We weren’t drunk, so we really did not believe his accounts, because I think hordes of tourists falling to death from a famed landmark would make the news. Our second cocktail made the story no more plausible.
We walked by the Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco and made reservations for dinner later on that evening. We then crossed the dangerous Ponte Vecchio. No, not dangerous for pickpockets but by the plethora of bling-bling shimmering its blinding glare toward Tracy’s eyes (and fingers and ears). At this point, I was feeling the bridge experience would be cheaper for me if I was pick pocketed before she could find earrings, a necklace or ring that called her name. Fortunately, neither happened, which meant we could afford to spring the cats when he arrived home.
Later that evening, we walked back over to Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco for dinner. The place was busy. I was the lucky recipient of the night’s best meal, a fantastico veal chop. We had been fortunate enough to enjoy numerous delicious meals on this trip, and tomorrow would arguably be the best we would encounter (at least, in hindsight, it was my favorite). It was also one of the most fun.
<b> TOMORROW – GALILEO GIVES KIM AND MARY THE FINGER, A MUSEUM OFF THE BEATEN PATH, THE ELUSIVE CHICKEN SANDWICH, RACING FOR THE SUNSET, MY FAVORITE RESTAURANT OF THE TRIP
AND
INTRODUCING DAN AND LINDA SHARING TRAGIC (AND FUNNY) STORIES OF A SUNKEN CAMERA AND THE MOST EXPENSIVE FISH IN THE WORLD </b>
This was the morning that I had pre-reserved an 11:40 am climbing of The Leaning Tower of Pisa. The plan was for the four of us to take the 8:27 train from Florence that got in to Pisa at 9:30. At 7 am, I realized that there were only going to be three of us, since Tracy had the Mary/Alexandra cough (though not nearly as bad).
Tracy decided to relax for part of the day in an attempt to nip her illness in the bud, so she decided to stay behind. “I’ve been to Pisa and can live without it.” Since there was still a week to go on the trip, she thought it would be a good idea, and, as it turned out, it was.
One of my idiosyncrasies (one of many) is that I am a freak about not being late. I tend to get to places too early, but I figure it’s better being too early than too late. Fortunately Kim and Mary know that about me, so they noticed that, as we were having a cappuccino at The THG, I was getting a little antsy about departing for the train station to get our tickets and make the train (although I think Kim likes me to sweat just a little bit for amusement).
We walked (briskly) to the station, and, of course, we got there early (sorry K&M, you were right). We got the tickets, but I had forgotten that the train station sometimes plays pranks with overly time-conscious travelers such as myself. 8:10 (no track number). 8:15 (no track number). 8:20 (no track number). I know that the trains run on time, so where do we go? As usual, my worries are stupid since we have plenty of time once they announce the track number.
Two years ago, Tracy and I had driven to Pisa, which is why I decided on the train. On that journey, Tracy and I drove through the maze of streets in Pisa following phantom signs to the Campo dei Miracoli. It was a miracoli we ever found it. I didn’t have a good impression of Pisa on that trip.
On this trip, the train arrived at 9:30 and it was an easy 20-minute walk to the Campo dei Miracoli. When not trying to negotiate one-way streets and nearly maiming pedestrians, one gets a different perspective of a place, and my thoughts about Pisa are a little different now. Pisa wasn’t so bad after all.
The last time we walked in, all the booths selling Leaning Tower crap kind of cheapened the experience, so I warned Kim and Mary to just look at the Campo and imagine how beautiful this whole area was before tourism. We walked by a restaurant where a bird had crapped on a guy’s shirt on our trip in 2003 (ah, some memories just never leave you), and we were in the Campo.
I brought the printed proof of receipt to the ticket offices of Opera della Primaziale Pisa and they gave us our tickets, and we all bought the combo ticket for the Duomo and the Baptistery. The interior has a neat Pisano pulpit and a large baptismal font. We were told that, if you count the statue on top of the Baptistery, the building is actually taller than the Leaning Tower. Useless trivia, but good cocktail party fodder.
Then we visited the Duomo. For some reason, we got obsessed with finding “Henry’s Tomb”, the tomb of Emperor Henry VII (whoever he was), which was one of the pieces that survived a 16th century fire that destroyed a lot of the Duomo’s art works.
Near a 14th century pulpit (which obviously survived the fire, too) is a bronze lamp that, according to legend, favorite Pisa son, Galileo, started staring upon one day at Mass (obviously bored by the length of the service). Just like me after a few bottles of Chianti, the lamp started to sway back and forth. This is supposed to have given him the idea for the Pendulum. Since then, some know-it-all Pisans have argued that the lamp was cast in 1586, a few years after his discovery, but we went with the original Galileo story.
We still had some time before the big climb, so we decided that we needed more caffeine and downed a cappuccino. It was then time for the climb to the top of the Torre Pendante, and I had forgotten about Mary’s fear of heights.
Mary, like myself, is more a Type A personality, meaning we tend to yap a lot. Fortunately, our respective spouses are more the B variety and usually just shake their heads as we banter on. Today, Mary, feeling a little uncomfortable as we started the climb upward, began bantering…with herself.
I must admit, it was an odd feeling listing to one side or another as we walked around and around. I was right behind Kim, and we could Mary talking a blue streak, singing songs and just staying busy talking about nothing in particular. I said, “Kim, who is she talking to?”
He was laughing when he said something like, “Oh, no one in particular.” Our spouses did a lot of laughing, although they were usually really laughing with us…weren’t they?” Well, we made it to the first landing with no problem.
You could see, where if it was slippery, there are a couple of places with any kind of misstep, you could pull a Kim Novak in Vertigo and become a minced Pisa Pie. Fortunately, we safely made the top of the tower, Mary was calm (sort of) and we took some fantastic pictures. It was cool to look across at the difference in height, but unfortunately that differential didn’t show up that great in the otherwise terrific photos we took.
Just before noon, a voice came over the speakers saying in various languages that the bells are going to ring, it’s going to be real loud and don’t be so scared you fly off the tower. They were loud, and we are still here to tell about it. The tour is limited to 1/2 an hour, and the groupings are limited to how many people who can go each trip.
ALERT: Read the signs before you go that say “no backpacks and purses.” They mean it. Mary had deposited her purse, but a couple of people with daypacks obviously did not think the signs were intended for them and did not heed the signs.. They did not make our tour, and were not in the next group (probably full). I don’t know if they ever made it up to the top, but they are strict about that detail.
We made it to the station for the 1 pm train (after a gelato stop) and were back in Florence a little after two. Kim and Mary went off on their own, but I went in search of the greatest chicken sandwiches on the face of the earth at Caffe Giacosa, off the Via Tornabuoni.
This was Tracy and my fourth visit to Florence, and these morsels from heaven are the tastiest, freshest little sandwiches ever made. We have them every time we are here, and this seemed like a nice opportunity for me to do something nice for my wife. I thought, “Tracy will say I am the greatest, most considerate husband on earth (well, she could lie) when I bring these back for her.”
To my horror, they were sold out. Panic set in, because we only had one day left in Florence and had dreamed about these sandwiches from the time we got to Italy (sure that’s weird, but damnit these are GOOD sandwiches!). “We usually put them out at 11,” the woman said. I made a mental note that we should not forget to be here tomorrow morning at 11 am. Remember, however, I am the guy who put Super Gas in a Diesel.
Back at the hotel, Tracy was feeling better (even without sandwiches) and had even washed some of our clothes so we didn’t have to look like transients by the time we reached Venice. That afternoon, the four of us went over to the Cappelle Medicee to see the tombs of the dead Medicis. When I visited this museum in 1996 with Tracy, there was some bizarre fashion show going on and the entire inside was full of Christian Dior crap (sorry fashion people, I’m more into dead bodies and stuff). I was looking forward to seeing the place uncluttered.
So, of course, when we get inside we see that the whole place is under scaffolding, and some of the statues have been removed for renovation. It was still interesting, but not great.
We walked across the Arno to the district of Oltrarno where we have purchased historical pieces of art before. Luckily, we didn’t see anything we wanted, so after the four of us window-shopped, we looked at our watches and said (all together) “Cocktail Hour!”
I heard Kim laughing, and knowing that neither Mary nor I had not bantered for minutes (ok seconds), it could only be one other thing…he had found another Irish pub.
Yes, soon we found ourselves drinking Campari, Guiness, Jack Daniels and Scotch (not all in one drink fortunately), at Irish pub Numero Due. We met some guy who, after hearing we had gone to Pisa, said he was an engineer, and proceeded to tell us that a number of tourists fall to their deaths from the tower each year. We weren’t drunk, so we really did not believe his accounts, because I think hordes of tourists falling to death from a famed landmark would make the news. Our second cocktail made the story no more plausible.
We walked by the Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco and made reservations for dinner later on that evening. We then crossed the dangerous Ponte Vecchio. No, not dangerous for pickpockets but by the plethora of bling-bling shimmering its blinding glare toward Tracy’s eyes (and fingers and ears). At this point, I was feeling the bridge experience would be cheaper for me if I was pick pocketed before she could find earrings, a necklace or ring that called her name. Fortunately, neither happened, which meant we could afford to spring the cats when he arrived home.
Later that evening, we walked back over to Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco for dinner. The place was busy. I was the lucky recipient of the night’s best meal, a fantastico veal chop. We had been fortunate enough to enjoy numerous delicious meals on this trip, and tomorrow would arguably be the best we would encounter (at least, in hindsight, it was my favorite). It was also one of the most fun.
<b> TOMORROW – GALILEO GIVES KIM AND MARY THE FINGER, A MUSEUM OFF THE BEATEN PATH, THE ELUSIVE CHICKEN SANDWICH, RACING FOR THE SUNSET, MY FAVORITE RESTAURANT OF THE TRIP
AND
INTRODUCING DAN AND LINDA SHARING TRAGIC (AND FUNNY) STORIES OF A SUNKEN CAMERA AND THE MOST EXPENSIVE FISH IN THE WORLD </b>
Nov 1st, 2005 | 08:56 AM
#228
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,647
Likes: 21
Kopp,
Yes, it is very easy to reserve your Leaning Tower tickets online.
Here is website:
http://www.opapisa.it/boxoffice/index.jsp
They will ask for your passport number. Pick a date and time you want to go, and they will send you a confirmation.
It costs 17 Euros per ticket online. You have to be at the Opera della Primaziale office near the tower about an hour before your scheduled time. Bring your confirmation, and they will give you tickets. About 10-15 minutes before you go up, go over to the TI if you need to check your purse, backpack, etc.
Have fun, and save a chicken sandwich or two for us in Florence.
Yes, it is very easy to reserve your Leaning Tower tickets online.
Here is website:
http://www.opapisa.it/boxoffice/index.jsp
They will ask for your passport number. Pick a date and time you want to go, and they will send you a confirmation.
It costs 17 Euros per ticket online. You have to be at the Opera della Primaziale office near the tower about an hour before your scheduled time. Bring your confirmation, and they will give you tickets. About 10-15 minutes before you go up, go over to the TI if you need to check your purse, backpack, etc.
Have fun, and save a chicken sandwich or two for us in Florence.
Nov 1st, 2005 | 09:48 AM
#229
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Really enjoying your trip-are you a professional writer??
My DH is also an early person. His elementary school principal called to ask his mother to keep him home until the staff actually arrived. We tried telling him the wrong time for one party but I gave it away by not nagging him that we were too early!
My DH is also an early person. His elementary school principal called to ask his mother to keep him home until the staff actually arrived. We tried telling him the wrong time for one party but I gave it away by not nagging him that we were too early!
Nov 1st, 2005 | 10:46 AM
#230
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,647
Likes: 21
"What? I have to wait till tomorrow for your fav restaurant. My guess is it is the one in Lamole."
Ah, that was the CONSENSUS #1, but not mine, although it was a very close second. My favorite restaurant was in Firenze and it is.......
Ah, that was the CONSENSUS #1, but not mine, although it was a very close second. My favorite restaurant was in Firenze and it is.......
Nov 1st, 2005 | 11:01 AM
#232
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
Donco, your story got a laugh out of me. I have the opposite problem. My fiancee, his son and a few other members of my family are always late so I just tell them an earlier time.
Sometimes it works and they arrive on time!
Gail
Sometimes it works and they arrive on time!
Gail
Nov 2nd, 2005 | 11:14 AM
#233
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 0
I'm still waiting for your next installment. I hope all the gushing and fawning over Barb's story hasn't deterred you from continuing the account of your Odyssey. I'm finding it most entertaining and informative. Please continue!
Nov 2nd, 2005 | 12:19 PM
#235
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Yeah, thanks for the link. I was also wondering how to make reservations for the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
Looking forward to another chapter of Tom’s Tuscan Tours. Just what does that chicken sandwich have that makes it so delicious?
Looking forward to another chapter of Tom’s Tuscan Tours. Just what does that chicken sandwich have that makes it so delicious?
Nov 2nd, 2005 | 01:33 PM
#236
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,647
Likes: 21
Unfortunately it has been a very bust couple of days, but will post next installment in a few hours when I get home from work.
Simone, the chicken sandwich is really very simple. Lettuce, mayo and chicken on the freshest little round pieces of bread. It sounds like any other chicken sandwich, but for some reason, it is just incredibly delicious (and it's not because we love Florence, although it doesn't hurt).
Simone, the chicken sandwich is really very simple. Lettuce, mayo and chicken on the freshest little round pieces of bread. It sounds like any other chicken sandwich, but for some reason, it is just incredibly delicious (and it's not because we love Florence, although it doesn't hurt).
Nov 2nd, 2005 | 03:08 PM
#237
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Maitai: My fav restaurant for dinner was also in Firenze and it was...."GARGA". On Oct 11, 2005. Second Fav was in Siena, "San Desiderio", a super lunch,10/5/05 and Third was also lunch 10/12/05 in Chiusi, "La Solita Zuppa", run by the "Soup Nazi". We didn't get to many places recommended by Fodorites because of many reasons, mainly that we couldn't find them and my husband said: "Let's find our own great places". He won, and we found good and bad cafes.
Nov 2nd, 2005 | 03:11 PM
#238
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,527
Likes: 0
Okay, Tom, we are counting on the continuation of the trip. As much as I enjoyed Barb's epic mis-adventure, it is nice to read about a journey where everyone got along so well. (I think your group's wine consumption could have something to do with that??)
Nov 2nd, 2005 | 03:38 PM
#239
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,647
Likes: 21
"Okay, Tom, we are counting on the continuation of the trip."
I am just waiting for Dan to call me back and tell me the exact name of the restaurant where he had the most "expensive fish in the world," which he said he would do shortly.
Everyone on our trip remains close friends, and they are actually "reading" along without fear I am saying anything behind their backs. Kim is very busy, so he sometimes falls a little behind in the report. I talked to him a couple of nights ago, and he asked, "Where are we today in the report?" When I said Florence, he replied dryly, "Great, did we have a good time?"
We all got along so well together because laughter truly is the best medicine (well, at least better than a wine and Ambien combo). And yes, any trip, any where, any time, is better with wine.
I am just waiting for Dan to call me back and tell me the exact name of the restaurant where he had the most "expensive fish in the world," which he said he would do shortly.
Everyone on our trip remains close friends, and they are actually "reading" along without fear I am saying anything behind their backs. Kim is very busy, so he sometimes falls a little behind in the report. I talked to him a couple of nights ago, and he asked, "Where are we today in the report?" When I said Florence, he replied dryly, "Great, did we have a good time?"
We all got along so well together because laughter truly is the best medicine (well, at least better than a wine and Ambien combo). And yes, any trip, any where, any time, is better with wine.
