We bag 4 of the big 5 in Orkney
Dec 29th, 2019, 08:19 AM
#1
We bag 4 of the big 5 in Orkney
You know Orkney, the group of islands on the top of the British Islands on the right-hand side just before you hit the Shetlands, up there.
We were asked to spend Christmas on the Main Island with some new “incomers”. We try to avoid flying so left Leeds at 9 am by train to get to Aberdeen by 3 pm and then a ferry from Aberdeen to Kirkwall by 23:30. A little slower than by plane, not much, but far less CO2 released. We ate supper on the ferry and it was “meh” a bit like school dinners but perfectly edible. Our hosts picked us up from the ferry and then drove to Stromness which is 20 minutes from Kirkwall. We've visited the islands, which lacks trees, a couple of times before and for the first time got to see the Christmas lights on all the houses.
We were staying in Stromness a town of 1800 inhabitants with one small supermarket and three delis so drove over to Kirkwall to fill up for Christmas, everyone very friendly as the store was packed but no pushing of crying kids. It was also the last chance to buy presents for our hosts on the main street which is a little gem with high-quality local shops full of locally made quality goods. About the only international branded products are Helly Hansen waterproofs everything else was from the backend of nowhere and the quality was startling good. We also had the usual UK branded shops but really who would visit Boots when you could visit a local deli.
The weather was lovely for 5 days, dry cold and clear with fantastic light and a mirror finish on the sea and lochs. Christmas Eve saw us driving around visiting empty beaches, little ancient stones. We bagged the four of the big five, Otters, Highland Cows, Grey Seals and Common Seals but missed out on Orca. We managed to avoid the druids gathered for sun-worshipping around an ancient stone circle, though Mrs Bilbo was enticed into the inner circle for a few minutes. We also joined the local whale watching facebook page so if there were a lot of sightings we could race off, but it looks like Christmas pudding got in the way of everyone looking for them.
Christmas day required us to trek off again to Kirkwall to watch the Ba'. A game of football like no other you will have seen outside Scotland. Roughly 40 tough men aside, try to push a football from the centre of town into one of two docks. We watched for about an hour. No punching or kicking but a fair bit of pure muscle (my photos show steam rising from the players) as they jostled on the high street pushed up against the wooden partitions covering the windows of the beautiful little shops. After an hour we left, but the game finished 6 hours later, to run again on New Years Day. We went off to a beach to walk, take photos of the sun and snack on Christmas bites before going home for a giant salmon en croute.
Boxing day was another beautiful day, no wind, blue skies and fantastic views.
The last day the weather was terrible, we managed to visit the local Museum and rang a specialist shop asking them to open for us out in the hills. They did and the winds were fierce but a friendly visit and a little business for them. That evening the ferry turned up after midnight to take us home towards Aberdeen and then Yorkshire. We took a small cabin which was very cheap, clean and silent despite the storm outside. The trains were more of a problem as any visitor to the UK knows Christmas is a tricky time to use the trains, but we were home by 4 pm
Would we recommend it? Yes, but if you don't have contacts to stay with I would probably, as a first time visitor, stay in Kirkwall and probably in a hotel. I might also look at a tour of the island with a small tour company. There are lots of ancient sites to visit (many pre-pyramids) and if you are only coming for a short time a guide would be more effective. If you want to visit all the artists the islands support then come in the summer.
We were asked to spend Christmas on the Main Island with some new “incomers”. We try to avoid flying so left Leeds at 9 am by train to get to Aberdeen by 3 pm and then a ferry from Aberdeen to Kirkwall by 23:30. A little slower than by plane, not much, but far less CO2 released. We ate supper on the ferry and it was “meh” a bit like school dinners but perfectly edible. Our hosts picked us up from the ferry and then drove to Stromness which is 20 minutes from Kirkwall. We've visited the islands, which lacks trees, a couple of times before and for the first time got to see the Christmas lights on all the houses.
We were staying in Stromness a town of 1800 inhabitants with one small supermarket and three delis so drove over to Kirkwall to fill up for Christmas, everyone very friendly as the store was packed but no pushing of crying kids. It was also the last chance to buy presents for our hosts on the main street which is a little gem with high-quality local shops full of locally made quality goods. About the only international branded products are Helly Hansen waterproofs everything else was from the backend of nowhere and the quality was startling good. We also had the usual UK branded shops but really who would visit Boots when you could visit a local deli.
The weather was lovely for 5 days, dry cold and clear with fantastic light and a mirror finish on the sea and lochs. Christmas Eve saw us driving around visiting empty beaches, little ancient stones. We bagged the four of the big five, Otters, Highland Cows, Grey Seals and Common Seals but missed out on Orca. We managed to avoid the druids gathered for sun-worshipping around an ancient stone circle, though Mrs Bilbo was enticed into the inner circle for a few minutes. We also joined the local whale watching facebook page so if there were a lot of sightings we could race off, but it looks like Christmas pudding got in the way of everyone looking for them.
Christmas day required us to trek off again to Kirkwall to watch the Ba'. A game of football like no other you will have seen outside Scotland. Roughly 40 tough men aside, try to push a football from the centre of town into one of two docks. We watched for about an hour. No punching or kicking but a fair bit of pure muscle (my photos show steam rising from the players) as they jostled on the high street pushed up against the wooden partitions covering the windows of the beautiful little shops. After an hour we left, but the game finished 6 hours later, to run again on New Years Day. We went off to a beach to walk, take photos of the sun and snack on Christmas bites before going home for a giant salmon en croute.
Boxing day was another beautiful day, no wind, blue skies and fantastic views.
The last day the weather was terrible, we managed to visit the local Museum and rang a specialist shop asking them to open for us out in the hills. They did and the winds were fierce but a friendly visit and a little business for them. That evening the ferry turned up after midnight to take us home towards Aberdeen and then Yorkshire. We took a small cabin which was very cheap, clean and silent despite the storm outside. The trains were more of a problem as any visitor to the UK knows Christmas is a tricky time to use the trains, but we were home by 4 pm
Would we recommend it? Yes, but if you don't have contacts to stay with I would probably, as a first time visitor, stay in Kirkwall and probably in a hotel. I might also look at a tour of the island with a small tour company. There are lots of ancient sites to visit (many pre-pyramids) and if you are only coming for a short time a guide would be more effective. If you want to visit all the artists the islands support then come in the summer.
Dec 29th, 2019, 09:20 AM
#2
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Sounds like a wonderful visit. I have made about a half dozen trips to Orkney as it is one of my favorite places.You know, of course, you were very lucky with the weather. I’ve been there in the summer when faced with strong winds of sleet blowing off the ocean. Certainly a far less hectic Christmas than most of us are used to but must say, I’d welcome it. Have never taken the ferry from Aberdeen although would like to do the overnight on a trip. I feel safer on a good-sized ferry even with rough seas than a small plane fighting the wind. Usually travel to Thurso, John O Groats or Scrabster for the ferry across. Don’t suppose you managed to snatch up one of those fabulous Orkney chairs ?
Thanks for the report!
Thanks for the report!
Last edited by historytraveler; Dec 29th, 2019 at 09:29 AM.
Dec 29th, 2019, 01:43 PM
#5
No to the chairs, though they are pretty. The sea food is exceptional, I made a great paella, and ate a sort of linguini Atlantichi . The isles lobsters are fantastic as well. For those who drink there are two distilleries and a brewery. The water driven mill makes barley flower which makes a mean mince pie.
Dec 30th, 2019, 02:38 AM
#7
The Ba' in temperatures of 5C
In high summer it is still pretty empty, though all the rental properties tend to fill up pretty well so booking ahead is worth it. The digs are going pretty much full time in the warmer 6 months. Orkney has the highest density of archaeologists in the world in the summer months as just about everywhere has a site needing digging. The midges can be an issue but winds tend to be above 4 mph which helps. I think you only really get to know the islands proper out of season. Many of the pubs and shops close after Christmas for 3 months.
Last edited by bilboburgler; Dec 30th, 2019 at 02:45 AM.
Dec 30th, 2019, 03:12 AM
#9
Bilboburgler,
Stunning photo!
You bring back many pleasant memories for me. Many years ago, I visited friends in Orkney and later, the Shetlands. Beautiful and (then) remote, though I guess nothing is that untouristed anymore.
I do remember trying to fly from the Orkneys to Shetland, and having to wait several days to fly out because the planes weren’t taking off when it was heavily clouded.
Stunning photo!
You bring back many pleasant memories for me. Many years ago, I visited friends in Orkney and later, the Shetlands. Beautiful and (then) remote, though I guess nothing is that untouristed anymore.
I do remember trying to fly from the Orkneys to Shetland, and having to wait several days to fly out because the planes weren’t taking off when it was heavily clouded.
Dec 30th, 2019, 04:47 AM
#10
I flew into Kirkwall one time, many years ago and we landed despite a very strong crosswind but it felt a bit touch-and-go. Large Texan behind me growled, "that was fine flying, he is a great pilot". The little boy behind him said, "that was my mum". It was and the Texan was surprised and learnt a bit.
Dec 31st, 2019, 12:50 PM
#12
Gorgeous photos bilbo and what luck with the weather. did you see that it had been 16C in Aberdeen over the hols? at night!!
I've never been to Orkney or Shetland and now I'm beginning to wonder why.
I've never been to Orkney or Shetland and now I'm beginning to wonder why.
Dec 31st, 2019, 02:24 PM
#14
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Another great place to visit is Fair Isle. The island is about 3 miles long and 1 + (? ) mile wide. It is famous as a bird sanctuary and the island is featured in Ann Cleeves Shetland series. The island has a small but active community and is very welcoming. It also has some of the best knitters of the authenic Fair Isle designs. For someone really wanting to get away from tourist sights, this is the place. I will warn you that you either fly ( when weather permits ) or there is a ferry which from what I heard is not for those with a tendency to sea sickness.
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