Visiting Turkey for Fun and Adventure, Oasis or Chaos
Jan 13th, 2016, 01:45 AM
#203
It breaks my heart, but I have to warn future travelers to Turkey to be very flexible with their plans, to make sure not to commit advance payment for services and to buy refundable air tickets.
I follow most newspapers and TV news, as well as many pro-government tweets. The hate and the call for violence against intellectuals, thinkers, real liberals, modernists, human rights activists, progressive artists, actors, directors has increased geometrically (not increments but multiples) since November 1 elections, and seems to have reached a point when nation-wide civil war may suddenly pop up after the threatened witch hunt and violence against all government critics or civil/human rights advocates.
Today, a well known former mafia boss, current government supporter, Islamist, Nationalist wrote on his website that if the scurity forces were not there to protect all the so-called intellectuals, academics, scientists and their foreign bosses, he and his ilk would be taking their baths in their blood.
This is standard fare for many pro-government columnists and anchors and I doubt anyone can successfully seek redress at Turkish courts.
It is already unfortunate that the complaint of the Diyarbakir bar association directly to the International Court of Human Rights regarding the curfew, hunger, resident death, inability to reach the bodies for up to three weeks, lack of food, water, electricity resulted in only a "We shall observe and ask the Turkish government if the Turkish military is stepping over their boundaries," response.
I have even written to an American friend who was on occasion called on as consultant on the Middle East to some United States government agencies, to ask why the Obama administration decided to support AKP again in the last 6-12 months, hoping to get news of the ceasing of this support.
Do you think that Noam Chomsky, one of the now 1128 signatories of the Academics Declaration to the Turkish Government to stop the military action in the Southeast and negotiate a peace, will be terribly afraid after Erdogan included him in his categorization of "ignorant" "so called academics" who will be punished?
I follow most newspapers and TV news, as well as many pro-government tweets. The hate and the call for violence against intellectuals, thinkers, real liberals, modernists, human rights activists, progressive artists, actors, directors has increased geometrically (not increments but multiples) since November 1 elections, and seems to have reached a point when nation-wide civil war may suddenly pop up after the threatened witch hunt and violence against all government critics or civil/human rights advocates.
Today, a well known former mafia boss, current government supporter, Islamist, Nationalist wrote on his website that if the scurity forces were not there to protect all the so-called intellectuals, academics, scientists and their foreign bosses, he and his ilk would be taking their baths in their blood.
This is standard fare for many pro-government columnists and anchors and I doubt anyone can successfully seek redress at Turkish courts.
It is already unfortunate that the complaint of the Diyarbakir bar association directly to the International Court of Human Rights regarding the curfew, hunger, resident death, inability to reach the bodies for up to three weeks, lack of food, water, electricity resulted in only a "We shall observe and ask the Turkish government if the Turkish military is stepping over their boundaries," response.
I have even written to an American friend who was on occasion called on as consultant on the Middle East to some United States government agencies, to ask why the Obama administration decided to support AKP again in the last 6-12 months, hoping to get news of the ceasing of this support.
Do you think that Noam Chomsky, one of the now 1128 signatories of the Academics Declaration to the Turkish Government to stop the military action in the Southeast and negotiate a peace, will be terribly afraid after Erdogan included him in his categorization of "ignorant" "so called academics" who will be punished?
Jan 13th, 2016, 06:24 AM
#205
@otherchelebi:
I was extremely sad to read of the atrocity in Istanbul.
I am currently working on an itinerary for a trip in late summer, that would start in Ankara, loop up to the Black Sea coast and back to Ankara, followed by a flight to Trabzon or Erzurum, overland to Kars and Ani, and then overland to Georgia. I would not go south.
The attack in Istanbul did not convince me to change my plans, but your post might. Would you consider the northeast as "dangerous" as the rest of the country?
I was extremely sad to read of the atrocity in Istanbul.
I am currently working on an itinerary for a trip in late summer, that would start in Ankara, loop up to the Black Sea coast and back to Ankara, followed by a flight to Trabzon or Erzurum, overland to Kars and Ani, and then overland to Georgia. I would not go south.
The attack in Istanbul did not convince me to change my plans, but your post might. Would you consider the northeast as "dangerous" as the rest of the country?
Jan 13th, 2016, 07:29 AM
#206
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I am very sorry to hear about the state of Turkey. You know how much we appreciate the culture, the cuisine, and the history and, of course, the hospitality of you and the Turks.
Unfortunately, I fear this Islamic civil war will last at least another generation at this level of hostility and people like Erdogan will last always be with us.
Unfortunately, I fear this Islamic civil war will last at least another generation at this level of hostility and people like Erdogan will last always be with us.
Jan 13th, 2016, 07:44 AM
#207
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Ahmet:
Just heard. I have had some of my happiest, most interesting travel moments on my visits to Turkey. And no small part of that was due to the people. Hope you and family are well. Nasty world.
Stu
Just heard. I have had some of my happiest, most interesting travel moments on my visits to Turkey. And no small part of that was due to the people. Hope you and family are well. Nasty world.
Stu
Jan 13th, 2016, 09:05 AM
#208
thursdayd,
there are no specific dangers or safety matters relating to traveling within Turkey at this moment.
The PM and the Minister of Interior have gone live to assure all potential travelers, and neither did the German government warn their citizens traveling or living in Turkey.
What I wrote above relates to an undetermined future and was written as a precaution.
Your plan to the North has more risk from heavy rains and flooding than civil strife or terrorism on the Black Sea Coast, if you stretch it into the second half of September.
Please check rainfall figures for the cities you will travel.
Kars may have a somewhat higher risk quotient due to possible PKK activity in the region.
I should refer you to some of my previous posts regarding infiltration of ISIS by Turkish intelligence and police.
This reduces the risk of getting caught by suicide bombers. Note that the recent suicide bomber had entered Turkey the day before directly from Syria and relations with local suspected activity could not be found.
To help you with planning, I suggest :
- Fly into Ankara and visit to museum of Anatolian Civilizations
- Drive through Safranbolu to Bartin and Amasra
- Drive to Kastamonu through Ulus and Pinarbasi (inland)
- Drive throgh Corum and Amasya to Alacahoyuk and Hattusas
- Drive back to Ankara airport to return car and fly to Trabzon.
- Drive to Sumela monastery, Uzub gol, Ikizdere, Camlihemsin, Ayder on route to Hopa,
- Drive to Borcka and Macahel.
- Drive to Savsat, Ardahan, Kars, Ani.
- You will have to drive back to Hopa to cross to Georgia .
- Arrange to return car at border and pick new car (possibly with driver) at Georgian side of the border. An easy walk across.
Please check Eser's blog (four parts) for photographs and notes on our 2007 trip to the region.
http://eserahmetcelebilerblackseatrip1.blogspot.com.tr/
and parts 2,3 and 4
there are no specific dangers or safety matters relating to traveling within Turkey at this moment.
The PM and the Minister of Interior have gone live to assure all potential travelers, and neither did the German government warn their citizens traveling or living in Turkey.
What I wrote above relates to an undetermined future and was written as a precaution.
Your plan to the North has more risk from heavy rains and flooding than civil strife or terrorism on the Black Sea Coast, if you stretch it into the second half of September.
Please check rainfall figures for the cities you will travel.
Kars may have a somewhat higher risk quotient due to possible PKK activity in the region.
I should refer you to some of my previous posts regarding infiltration of ISIS by Turkish intelligence and police.
This reduces the risk of getting caught by suicide bombers. Note that the recent suicide bomber had entered Turkey the day before directly from Syria and relations with local suspected activity could not be found.
To help you with planning, I suggest :
- Fly into Ankara and visit to museum of Anatolian Civilizations
- Drive through Safranbolu to Bartin and Amasra
- Drive to Kastamonu through Ulus and Pinarbasi (inland)
- Drive throgh Corum and Amasya to Alacahoyuk and Hattusas
- Drive back to Ankara airport to return car and fly to Trabzon.
- Drive to Sumela monastery, Uzub gol, Ikizdere, Camlihemsin, Ayder on route to Hopa,
- Drive to Borcka and Macahel.
- Drive to Savsat, Ardahan, Kars, Ani.
- You will have to drive back to Hopa to cross to Georgia .
- Arrange to return car at border and pick new car (possibly with driver) at Georgian side of the border. An easy walk across.
Please check Eser's blog (four parts) for photographs and notes on our 2007 trip to the region.
http://eserahmetcelebilerblackseatrip1.blogspot.com.tr/
and parts 2,3 and 4
Jan 13th, 2016, 12:08 PM
#209
Thanks for the link. I will be using public transport, not driving myself. I was hoping to take the coast road from Amasra to Sinop, is that as scenic as it sounds? Are you recommending that I avoid Erzurum? I was thinking of taking the train from there to Kars.
Lonely Planet says that there is a crossing near Posof to Akhaltsikhe in Georgia, but LP is not as up to date as I would like. Do you know if that crossing is still operational for foreigners? I've already visited Batumi and Kutaisi, don't especially need to go back.
I would probably be there the second half of August. Thanks.
Lonely Planet says that there is a crossing near Posof to Akhaltsikhe in Georgia, but LP is not as up to date as I would like. Do you know if that crossing is still operational for foreigners? I've already visited Batumi and Kutaisi, don't especially need to go back.
I would probably be there the second half of August. Thanks.
Jan 13th, 2016, 12:52 PM
#210
Erzurum is extra conservative, Other than that there is no problem with it.
However the bus ride from Erzurum to Kars goes through some risky territory.
The Turkgozu (Posof) border crossing appears to be operational but open only 12 hours a day rather than 24 hours.
You should be aware that this crossing is quite a distance from the closest city, Ardahan and unless you find a bus crossing to Georgia, you may have some difficulty in arranging transportation and lodging in the area.
If you wish to take the coastal route, Amasra to Sinop is quite lovely althogh it does not have the well trodden valley routes that Trabzon to Hopa route has,
You may have to take several part way dolmus or buses between Amasra or Bartin and Sinop.
Once you get to Sinop, it makes no sense to backtrack to Ankara.
You should just continue on the coast to Hopa and then up.
My blog otherchelebis travels covers some parts of Western Black Sea.
We did the 2007 trip in second half of August and found that a light cardigan or a hoodie windbreaker was useful in the higher elevations. Ardahan is about a mile high like Kars.
However the bus ride from Erzurum to Kars goes through some risky territory.
The Turkgozu (Posof) border crossing appears to be operational but open only 12 hours a day rather than 24 hours.
You should be aware that this crossing is quite a distance from the closest city, Ardahan and unless you find a bus crossing to Georgia, you may have some difficulty in arranging transportation and lodging in the area.
If you wish to take the coastal route, Amasra to Sinop is quite lovely althogh it does not have the well trodden valley routes that Trabzon to Hopa route has,
You may have to take several part way dolmus or buses between Amasra or Bartin and Sinop.
Once you get to Sinop, it makes no sense to backtrack to Ankara.
You should just continue on the coast to Hopa and then up.
My blog otherchelebis travels covers some parts of Western Black Sea.
We did the 2007 trip in second half of August and found that a light cardigan or a hoodie windbreaker was useful in the higher elevations. Ardahan is about a mile high like Kars.
Jan 13th, 2016, 12:59 PM
#211
Thanks. This would be my fifth visit to Turkey (although the first was way back in 1974 - not the best year to pick!) and I would like to make it to the east. However, I am starting to think that since my real target is Central Asia I should maybe start in Tbilisi (I didn't get up to the high mountains last time).
Jan 13th, 2016, 11:48 PM
#213
Thanks gertie3751, you're right.
Here is a full list of all museums (or parts of museums) and other sites with dates of closure :
It is in Turkish but easy to understand.
Last column is expected reopening date.
http://www.kulturvarliklari.gov.tr/T...-birimler.html
Here is a full list of all museums (or parts of museums) and other sites with dates of closure :
It is in Turkish but easy to understand.
Last column is expected reopening date.
http://www.kulturvarliklari.gov.tr/T...-birimler.html
Jan 14th, 2016, 05:48 AM
#216
According to google translate it's September.
Thanks for the warning, that's later than I wanted to be there. Am definitely thinking of starting in Georgia instead.
I see that Jakarta was the latest target. I would not decide my destination on the basis of the last ISIS atrocity, but Erdogan's renewed attack on the Kurds was giving me some concern.
Thanks for the warning, that's later than I wanted to be there. Am definitely thinking of starting in Georgia instead.
I see that Jakarta was the latest target. I would not decide my destination on the basis of the last ISIS atrocity, but Erdogan's renewed attack on the Kurds was giving me some concern.
Jan 17th, 2016, 10:50 PM
#219
Thanks gertie, Ian, et al.
Heavy snow in istanbul for two days.
Both airports closed today
A columnist, writing about the Turkish president, said that
someone who is not an experienced poker player should not bluff
in the international arena and someone who has hot seen and understoon the God Father trilogy should not try to act like a
gangster.
Most recent polls show that votes of AKP are reaching 55% and those of the Kurdish HDP falling below the 10% minimum. I guess violence
and authoritarian rule fulfill some subconscious needs of the voting public in Turkey.
No new safety issues except for weather conditions.
Heavy snow in istanbul for two days.
Both airports closed today
A columnist, writing about the Turkish president, said that
someone who is not an experienced poker player should not bluff
in the international arena and someone who has hot seen and understoon the God Father trilogy should not try to act like a
gangster.
Most recent polls show that votes of AKP are reaching 55% and those of the Kurdish HDP falling below the 10% minimum. I guess violence
and authoritarian rule fulfill some subconscious needs of the voting public in Turkey.
No new safety issues except for weather conditions.
Feb 13th, 2016, 11:00 AM
#220
It was a month of atrocities, violence and breast beating.
Berating Russia, United States, United Nations, European union.
Making a deal with Saudi Arabia to use their F15s, to be stationed in Turkey so that the planes could clandestinely be flown by Turkish pilots to attack Kurdish locations in Syria because of Russian threat to any Turkish air activity over Syria.
More journalists jailed or forced out of work.
Over 1,300 court cases for insulting El Presidente against people who criticized or opposed or made fun of him on twitter, facebook, press radio, tv, instagram, and such.
In the meantime, a terrible flu epidemic swept over the country. Some with highish fever. Every case exhibiting sore throat, dry coughing and bronchitis, staying for as long as 3-4 weeks.
Weather warm after the snows, up to 19 Centigrade tomorrow.
No more terror attacks anyplace, except for those against the security forces in at least six Southeastern cities where the complete curfew has been extended to an impossible to perceive period of over eighty days. Those who could not escape trying to survive in basements with no water or electricity.
The cities are in as bad shape as the Syrian cities bombed by all sides. In this case, it was tanks and cannon against a handful of insurgents. Government proudly declared that they have killed 659 terrorists with no mention of 100,000 households and thousands of businesses totally destroyed and 300,000 immigrants out of the region.
Istanbul seems safe.
But, I advise staying away from protests, tour groups (and Istiklal Street on the weekend)
Not too long before the Tulip festival goes underway.
Independent film festival starts in two weeks.
Today is older daughter's birthday and here's my poem and photos for her:
https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?bl...0;src=postname
or
www.ahmetcafercelebiler.blogspot.com
Berating Russia, United States, United Nations, European union.
Making a deal with Saudi Arabia to use their F15s, to be stationed in Turkey so that the planes could clandestinely be flown by Turkish pilots to attack Kurdish locations in Syria because of Russian threat to any Turkish air activity over Syria.
More journalists jailed or forced out of work.
Over 1,300 court cases for insulting El Presidente against people who criticized or opposed or made fun of him on twitter, facebook, press radio, tv, instagram, and such.
In the meantime, a terrible flu epidemic swept over the country. Some with highish fever. Every case exhibiting sore throat, dry coughing and bronchitis, staying for as long as 3-4 weeks.
Weather warm after the snows, up to 19 Centigrade tomorrow.
No more terror attacks anyplace, except for those against the security forces in at least six Southeastern cities where the complete curfew has been extended to an impossible to perceive period of over eighty days. Those who could not escape trying to survive in basements with no water or electricity.
The cities are in as bad shape as the Syrian cities bombed by all sides. In this case, it was tanks and cannon against a handful of insurgents. Government proudly declared that they have killed 659 terrorists with no mention of 100,000 households and thousands of businesses totally destroyed and 300,000 immigrants out of the region.
Istanbul seems safe.
But, I advise staying away from protests, tour groups (and Istiklal Street on the weekend)
Not too long before the Tulip festival goes underway.
Independent film festival starts in two weeks.
Today is older daughter's birthday and here's my poem and photos for her:
https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?bl...0;src=postname
or
www.ahmetcafercelebiler.blogspot.com
