Nine of us (adults only) are going to Provence late May. None of us have ever been to any part of southern France. We have just 1 week. We are trying to decide between 2 farmhouses - one in St Remy and one in Robion. I am told that Robion is half way between Avignon and Aix.

We love wine. Want to see some vineyards but the Luberon area looks gorgeous too. Have heard wonderful things about St Remy, but have not heard much of any thing about the Robion area. Which location for our rental farmhouse would you recommend? And why?

The one in St Remy is supposedly close enough to walk into town. However, we will have 2 cars. Would it really be difficult driving at night back to Robion? How winding and challenging are the roads?

Thank you in advance for your advice!

If possible, we would also like to take 1 day to see the coast. Would you recommend Cassis?

st-remy would put you close to the pont du gard, arles, les baux, uzès, avignon, tarascon, the camargue, and the vineyards around chateauneuf du pape. since this will be your first visit, st-remy gets my vote.

Since we retired in '99, we've vacationed 11 weeks in Provence, including 4 in the Luberon & 2 near St Remy. Normally, I would suggest the Luberon - I think it's much prettier than the area around St Remy (see one of my back posts for an exlanation of this). However, Robion is in a corner of the Luberon that has a little too much ugly commerce near by. If you found a place in Gordes, Goult, Bonnieux, etc than I would strongly recommend you staying in the Luberon, but if it's a choice between Robion & St Remy, I would choose St Remy.

BTW, you will see more vineyards in the Luberon than you will see near St Remy. It's about 45 mins from St Remy to Robion, and another 15 to the heart of the Luberon, so you could go there for a day trip.

I have a 20+ page itinerary on Provence & Cote d'Azur, where I describe my favorite villages, drives, sites, markets, restaurants - and there is a section on Provence Fabrics. e-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy.

Cassis would be a nice 1 day visit - I have a description of a scenic drive to get there from Provence in my itinerary

Stu Dudley

We stayed in Robion this fall and found it to be a great location to use as a base. Our villa had 5 bedrooms. www.rentavilla.com I think it was called villa luberon. I didn't find any ugly commerce close by, don't know quite what Stu means by that. We were surrounded by beautiful mountains and vineyards. Having said that, Robion is not a swinging place, our villa was in the country, and we enjoyed most evenings at home. We had no problem driving back from any of our day trips in the evening, in fact, driving around there is a dream, just so easy to follow the signs and the roundabouts. St. Remy has much more townlife, if that's what you're looking for. We're thinking of staying in St. Remy or even Les Baux next year. So, either way, I'm sure you'll enjoy.

>>>I didn't find any ugly commerce close by, don't know quite what Stu means by that.<<

I'm not sure how close "close by" is, but the D2 from Cavaillon through Robion, and on to Coustellet has commerce that I don't find particulary attractive. The area just south of Coustellet has some gravel yards and other large storage/usine stuff that is kinda scrappy. Coustellet is not a charming place at all. On the D31 around Taillades (south of Robion), I think I remember an electrical plant or something like that. If you go directly east to Maubec, the terraine is prettier and gets even better east of Maubec. That's my recollection.

Stu Dudley

i don't think there's much in the way of nightlife in les baux, but it would be magical to wander the village and grounds after sunset.

I agree with underhill but must mention that most places that are listed as Les Baux are NOT in the village so that driving in and out is not a problem. They may be in a hamlet listed as Les Baux

Honestly, you can't go too wrong with either one. As Stu points out, you'll find plenty of vineyards around Robion (Côte du Luberon). The decidedly ugly usine/factory thing to which he refers in Coustellet is, in fact, the local wine co-op. As an aside, Coustellet is an unimpressive little "crossroads" village but with two major redeeming features: 1) the best true "farmers" market in Provence; and 2) Maison Gouin, on of our favorite local restaurants.

In Robion, by the way, is one of the best boulangeries I've ever tried. They make an olive bread which is a meal in itself.

At the margin, Robion might be easier to access the autoroute for quick drives to Aix, Marseille/Cassis, Orange, etc. But that's really marginal. Both are along straight, easily-driven roads. Given that St. Remy and Robion are probably not more than 30 minutes from each other, I'd focus much more heavily on the quality of the rental.

Cassis is a nice choice for a day trip to the coast. Just beware if it's high tourist season as traffic getting in and out can be bad. If you do go, take a hike or boat ride into the calanques.

From St. Remy, you night want to consider the Camargue (especially Aigues-Mortes.

-Kevin

>>>Coustellet is an unimpressive little "crossroads" village but with two major redeeming features: 1) the best true "farmers" market in Provence;<<

That's an excellent market for food and a few antiques. The only problem is that it's on Sunday & I have a hard time convincing my wife to go there instead of the l'Isle sur la Sorgue market, just 20 mins away. She did, however, manage to find soem nice fabric at the Coustellet market. Have you every bought a pizza at the pizza place there??


>>> 2) Maison Gouin, on of our favorite local restaurants.<<<

Is that the place with the superb deli and the excellent wine cellar??? If so, we've purchased a lot of wine there and also lots of prepared food we just re-heat in the oven for dinner. Excellent cheeses, pates, etc. However, every time we think of dining there, we've glanced at "todays" menu & it didn't seem that exciting. Don't know about the quality of the food (I'll take your word that it's good), but the selections did not seem that unique & unusual. Bernard Mathys is our favorite (by far) in the Luberon (we don't dine at the real expensive places)

Stu Dudley

I just love St. Remy so that would get my vote. It is a very easy day trip to the Luberon so you wouldn't miss anything there. Both areas are quite lovely and you can't go wrong. Perhaps the best way to choose is to decide which farmhouse is better for your group. While visiting the Luberon, be sure to try to get to the Abbaye de Senanque near Gordes. It is lovely and sits amid fields of lavender, which probably won't be in bloom yet. And whatever you decide, be sure to get a list of market days for the surrounding towns. Markets in Provence in May are worth it even if you don't do another thing!

Stu -

Not sure which pizza place you mean in Coustellet. Be interested in knowing.

Yes, Maison Gouin is the one with the fantastic epicerie (only place around to buy real high quality meats) in front and great wine cellar. For lunch, they have a menu with many choices. Dinner is a set meal, so best to call ahead and make sure you like what they are serving. The best veal I have ever had in my life was at chez Gouin. Service is excellent, a fine family run business. Make sure you call to reserve.

Interesting you mention Mathys, been meaning to try it for some time now, but had heard mixed things. Will have to check it out.

-Kevin

>>>Not sure which pizza place you mean in Coustellet. Be interested in knowing.<<<

I think there is one back in the little "village" thats just north of the N100 and east of the D2. Never bought a pizza there, however.

Last time we checked out the menu at Maison Gouin the set menu was magrets du Canard. This is what I cook at the gite, so didn't have any interest in having it at a restaurant. We spend a lot of time in the Dordogne/Quercy/Lot region where magrets is on every menu.

We've dined at Bernard Mathys about 5 times - always great. We spend 2 months in France most years, so that's probably 30-40 meals in restaurants every year. Bernard Mathys is the only Provence restaurant I would put in my top 10%. There are some other very good/great restaurnats near Uzes, but that is technically not Provence - it's the Languedoc.

Stu Dudley

Stu -

Well given that high of a recommendation, we'd be remiss not to check it out - especially as it is only 10 minutes or so from our house !!

The menu at Maison Gouin changes each evening - but better yet is to go there for lunch as then you really have quite a nice choice.

A la prochaine,
Kevin

Stu, Mathy's has been on my list for several years and my list was too long.
Is lunch available without reservations?

ditto for Chez Bruno.

annieladd,

You mentioned in a past post that you stayed at Villa Luberon. We're considering renting that place next year. May I ask you a few questions about it? mf1 @ fromherz.us

Thanks much,
Markus