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Vignettes from my Amalfi Trip

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Vignettes from my Amalfi Trip

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Old Jun 8th, 2004, 12:02 PM
  #41  
ira
 
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>So you never know how you will meet interesting people, do you? <

The beauty of travel.
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Old Jun 8th, 2004, 02:08 PM
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Thanks for more funny bits and stories! Seaurchin, reading your posts, almost makes me feel that I'm back there right now!

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Old Jun 8th, 2004, 08:23 PM
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Seaurchin, keep on writing!
Maybe you can get a book deal if you can get an editor interested.
I have read a lot of travel books and your writing is right up there with them. I would buy a book of your travel stories!
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Old Jun 8th, 2004, 10:44 PM
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Thanks nocino nut that would be great wouldn't it?!

THE DAY OF THE HIGH WINDS IN AMALFI

We woke up to the telephone ringing, it was Sorrentino saying he was coming over around noon to make us a gourmet lunch. Yeaa, he is a wonderful cook, what a treat.
He asked me to buy about four pieces of thinly sliced chicken breasts. OK, sounds great.

That morning also was the day of the high winds swooping down the canyon where Amalfi lies. Since we were about the highest building before you reach the town square we received the brunt of the wind, it had crashed against that side of the apartment since early morning light. Seashell and I swept into domestic gear, we had allowed the apartment to become cluttered, actually I cluttered it up and Seashell chose to ignore it. Anyway we had a guest coming so we devoted that morning to household chores.

Our clothes washer was on an outside porch on the same side as our clothesline and all of this was five or six stories above the road. We never did figure out the clues for opening the washer, sometimes it just would not open and other times it would open right up, sometimes just after one of us would give up and ask the other to try it. If we didn't know better we would think the washer had a devious mind of its own.

I washed a load of clothes and then when the door gave way and let me take out my clothes I walked like a mime against the wind to the clothes line which hung about two feet out from our balcony ledge so you had to lean way out to reach it. The wind would die down enough for me to lean over and then diabolically start again when I had something halfway pinned on the line (I hadn't used a clothesline since I was a child).
This is the morning I wrote about from Amalfi when my pink undies and a camisole flew off the line and took to the skies. I watched helplessly as the pink panties flew over the apartment, whipped around, then swooped behind the apartment somewhere. My camisole was less adventurous and just fell onto the dirty porch. Well, so much for that domestic experience, I brought the rest of the wash inside and draped it over furniture.

Now it was time for me to buy the chicken. I went down to the butcher and then realized I didn't know how to say breast of chicken. I waited while some of the local ladies left with their packages then I approached the butcher, "vorrei pollo" and pointed to my chest, he smiled and nodded "white meat" he said, good, some tourist had paved the way for me. I put my fingers almost together "piccolo"and then mimed slicing. Si si. Oh I want quatro pieces. OK, Senora. Wow, was I becoming a local or what!

Just then our neighbor came in. We had been friendly with her since she helped us with our door locks the week before, we had introduced ourselves and we waved and said greetings whenever we met on the landing. Some mornings she would glance up to our porch as we sat with our coffee and cereal, our feet up on the railing.

I had a suspicion that my Victoria Secret pinks had fallen into her yard earlier. We greeted each other again and I said, I think some of my clothes fell into your yard.
Cloths?
No, clothes. (I mimed something flying)
(blank stare)
(I didn't want to say panties so I pointed to my hip area, then mimed flying clothes again)
(she looked a little frightened and glanced at the butcher)
(I looked at him and he smiled at me non judgementally then went back to his slicing)
I have no cloths.
She looked down at my hip.
It was getting too complicated for a butcher shop conversation.
OK, that is fine, ok, nevermind (big smile to show I am not raving and looney)
You fly? You fly away? Today? You want cloth?
No, just my...... clothes flew.......nevermind it is ok.

The butcher said, Senora, told me the price which was reasonable and handed me a rather large package. I paid, thanked him, nodded to my confused neighbor and made a quick exit. I glanced back, my neighbor was watching me with narrowed eyes.

Meanwhile back at the apartment, Sorrentino had just arrived and Seashell and I then remembered that we couldn't get the stove to light (we had been cooking on the hot plate because of no propane). Sorrentino called our rep and this is when she agreed to come over and show us the propane tank and how to turn it on. (It was outside in the same hut as the washer, who would have known that?) I put the chicken (boy it IS a big package, he must have really wrapped it well) in the refridge, and we went to the other porch to sip our wine.

After our rep came, glared at us and left, we lit the burners and he started to cook, then he asked "where is the chicken" "Did you buy four slices?"
"Um, no, I bought four breasts."
"Four breasts?"
"Yess" and I plunked down the package with a thud. He stood there looking at it, not speaking, the only sound was the sizzling olive oil in the pan. "Who are you inviting, the Italian army?"
"you said four"
"four slices, not whole breasts, my dear.... sweet".
I am used to buying little styrofoam packages of chicken in my market chain, where we get four scrawney chicken breasts at a time. This butcher cut up and sliced four whole chicken breasts, basically the front of four chickens.

Oh, I see, I said. Hmmmm, I guess that is alot. I can freeze the rest. He picked out four slices, I froze the rest (we actually left it for the maid) and he started lunch. It was delicious, we opened all the windows, let the wind blow through (my idea) until it blew books off the table so the side windows were shut (their idea) and we still had a lovely lunch, and to make our chef happy we turned on some racing event on TV.

When he left he said he would make reservations for a romantic dinner at Luna Convento in the Torre later that night. He called just before 8pm and said he couldnt make it, we would have to postpone until the next evening. But he suggested that since he had made all the arrangements Seashell and I should still honor the reservations. We said ok and we walked against that darn wind over to the restaurant. I gave my name and we got curious glances, but they were very courteous and looked down as they swept us to our table. Hmmm, ok, I could see why we had the PC treatment, there was champagne waiting and we had the most romantic table, he must have told them it was to be a romantic dinner and then two disheveled women trudge in. It was nice that they accepted us as romantic diners and they gave us first class service. It is a romantic place to have dinner or drinks especially at sunset. Seashell looked out the window at the sea, then said, hmmm, I think I see your undies in the water. I looked and there was something floating but I don't think it was them. We laughed and then the waiter coughed, he had been standing there.

So more people of Amalfi had more things to say about us that evening I am sure.



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Old Jun 9th, 2004, 04:00 AM
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I'm so glad you posted all your stories here instead of in a book because one thing that makes them entertaining is the interaction with the author and the immediate responses! Kind of like a blog after the fact....! But I can't imagine why Sorrentino set up such a romantic evening and didn't materialize! Hope he made up for it somehow!!
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Old Jun 9th, 2004, 07:59 AM
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Hi, yes it did cause me to question my importance in his life and we did have a little "thing" over it the next day but we both felt closer afterwards.

I am writing and emailing these for friends so I am just putting it on here too. I have received some emails telling me to continue, so there are a few more coming.
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Old Jun 9th, 2004, 08:07 AM
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SeaUrchin, So after your two trips to the Amalfi Coast, and having developed something of an intimate familiarity with it, where would you recommend people base for say a week or two visit and why?
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Old Jun 9th, 2004, 08:59 AM
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SeaUrchin, I have had so many conversations like the one with your neighbor in the butcher shop. There is this moment of decision when you think, briefly, should I attempt this? And then something too cocky in you says, sure, why not? And the next thing you know you are mired deep in the mud of misunderstanding. Very funny to read your telling of it!
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Old Jun 9th, 2004, 10:37 AM
  #49  
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Thanks all.
Grasshopper, your question made me think for a while.
I have been coming to that area since the mid-90's and I have stayed in various parts in hotels and apts. over these years.
I liked Sorrento after I got to know it better and found secret places where it is not so crowded. It doesn't sleep, you can be up all night and something is going on somewhere. The views here are wonderful of Naples in the distance and Mt. Ves. over the bay.
I liked Positano for its beauty and charm. I would choose to stay here for the views and the small town feeling. Positano doesn't have any views really though of anything other than the coast, I mean there is nothing across a bay to look at like in Sorrento (from parts of Positano you can see Capri though).
I liked Praiano for it's small town charms too, the views are mostly of the sea and down the coast with Capri in the distance. In Positano and Praiano I would have to have a place with a view though, because there is not much to do in either (after you have raided all the shops in Positano) and sitting on a veranda looking at the sea is what you find yourself doing most of the time.
Massa Lubrense has beautiful views of Capri and back towards Naples too, but it is a small town and the views are the main attraction too.
I liked Amalfi on this last trip (the first time I have stayed there overnight - and we were there two whole weeks). It is small too and more isolated so it has both the good and not so good parts of a small town, everyone knows what you are doing but you get to meet everyone too.
Ravello is beautiful and of course has the views, but it is more isolated than even Amalfi so you spend time traveling.
I like Minori and Maoiri (sp?) too.
San Aignello is nice too with great views and more of a city feel.
There are more small towns too along both coasts.

It depends on what you want to do too. Do you want to veg. out or trip around?
Will you have a car or take public transporaton?
Will you be in a hotel or rental?

Why dont you email me at [email protected] and you can we figure it out, there are so many variables. (better put fodors in the title, I have been getting alot of p...s enhancement offers by spammers lately {!})
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Old Jun 9th, 2004, 01:53 PM
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Hi Seaurchin- don't know if we live in the same town, but where I am it's so hot today you could probably fry an egg on the sidewalk..and I'm wishing I could be standing on a cliff feeling the breezes of the Tyrrenian sea on my face...
Glad you will keep up these stories for a little while. Having been to the Amalfi Coast myself six times now in recent years, I have had a few similar things happen here and there. (Being maybe stood up?, maybe not?)
I have finally (I think) gotten used to the learning curve and the difference in cultures, so thankfully, I still have the friendships intact! I have a question for you, based on your funny experience at the butcher shop, and the fact your have been going there for years- have you learned to speak some of the language?
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Old Jun 9th, 2004, 02:53 PM
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SeaUrchin, you should put all your travelling adventures in a book..
You are funny and entertaing...Keep on writing..
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Old Jun 9th, 2004, 03:57 PM
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THE DAY I GOT BIG HAIR:

We decided to take advantage of a free ride into Sorrento (Sorrentino was passing by) so after eating lunch we decided to get our hair "done".

We found a nice lively place right on the Corso with named something like "Unisex". We went in and talked to the woman in charge and boy was she in charge, she has a type "A" personality, she was obviously the boss.

I went in first and said "shampoo?" and mimed sudsing up my hair.
Si si, one minute, sit down please.

Seashell came in and said "me too?"
Si si, one minute, sit down please.

We waited, sitting on our little couch. One customer was not liking her style and was very loudly communicating this to the shop. Her arms were waving, she was pointing to her hair and her voice was getting more and more shrill. I could feel my anxiety level going up a bit. She kept at it, her final comb out had taken a wrong turn and she had a flip which she didn't want (we determined quietly to each other). Her stylist started yelling back at her and easily matching her with shrugs and histrionics, finally he threw down the comb and went to the back room, some of the young styling assistants went to him like they were refreshing him ringside at a boxing match. He calmed down and came back and quietly recombed her hair, she sat still but kept berating him (I think).

A young English girl came in shyly, "I want a haircut and wash, but my friend said that it will be cheaper to just have a cut and not a wash". I knew she was saying way too many words and that she was making a mistake. Sure enough, the boss said to her "sit" so she scurried over to our couch, we made room for her and we three sat like little birds on a wire, our hands folded meekly in our laps.

I was the first to be chosen:
"come!" I got up obediently and followed the girl to my seat. The boss came over and tossed my hair, "you need big color".
"big color or big hair?" (too many words I realized too late ).
"big color, take out rosso, red"
"keep the color, just take out the red?"
"si"
"so, no big change to color"
"no, look at book"
"si"
I found a nice color and she agreed that it was "big" because it had no red in it (I guess she was thinking big, blond hair, I was beginning to get a little worried)
"ok, fine, go ahead" (sometimes I am like this)
They put some goop on my hair and put me to the side. After a long time it was starting to burn my scalp so I kept waving to get someone's attention (I had lost my nerve in this crowded salon to actually get up and talk face to face).
Finally the boss came over and checked me and said something to an assitant, who went over and got Seashell and took her to get washed (I guess she wasn't going to get big hair).
While they washed her hair I had visions of my hair actually falling out due to the chemicals, my anxiety level was maximizing. I took all of my courage and stood up, the assistant rushed over and sat me down again and washed out my hair and it didn't fall out, they had something like a vacuum cleaner that sucked the excess water which is really a good idea.

I looked over at the couch and the English girl was sitting there like she was in a Norman Rockwell painting, toes pointed in and all.

They finished my hair and it did look brighter! It glowed and I didn't look like a Las Vegas Showgirl with Big Blond Hair.

Seashell was finished in a nice straight "do", we paid the "tourist price" I am sure (I paid 80 euro, but I hadn't asked the price beforehand) and we walked out of there feelin' fine, but we headed for "David" for gelato to calm our nerves.

I looked back and our little English friend was being led away to the sinks, she gave me one last look and disappeared behind the curtain.




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Old Jun 10th, 2004, 01:43 AM
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You are SO brave, Seaurchin! Glad the color worked out, but it sounds like you might have paid the tourist price! If you go again, there's a great (and less expensive) parucchiere over on via degli Aranci where the locals go....then you'll have some Euros leftover for a manicure!
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Old Jun 10th, 2004, 10:47 AM
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OOps- I forgot to say (half asleep this morning when I posted) your latest vignette is very funny!
Thanks
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Old Jun 10th, 2004, 11:30 AM
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VERY funny, SeaUrchin, especially the hair salon story. Wonder whatever happened to the little English girl...
Saw lots of Smart cars in Germany--wonder if they'd ever catch on in the US? Our car delimma was the pull out cover (sort of like a window shade) that's meant to cover your possessions when they're in the truck if it's a hatchback. With the luggage of 4 adults, we could barely squeeze it all in the back and no room for the window shade bar, which was known for the remainder of the trip as "that d#@*n bar!"
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Old Jun 10th, 2004, 04:24 PM
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Thanks for all the laughs, Seaurchin. I'm amazed at how many restaurants you have gone to. And I think Victoria's Secret owes you a discount for plugging them several times! I'll be chuckling to myself on my next visit to the Amalfi Coast, but I still wonder whatever happened to your photos?
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Old Jun 10th, 2004, 07:29 PM
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Thanks Sognatrice. About those pictures, I have been so busy at work that I haven't had a chance to upload them, but I do sneak over to Fodors when I have a minute.

We had some new restaurant finds this trip, I should list the good ones and that one bad one...tomorrow, hopefully I'll do both.
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Old Jun 11th, 2004, 12:27 AM
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I think everyone would love the restaurant info! When I'm there, I like to mix it up between the kinds of places I go to. Sometimes I just go to really local places which helps me practice my language skills.
Sometimes I'll go to a more upscale restaurant. But by far the best memories are home-cooked meals with friends!
BTW-can you recommend a contact to find apartments further out on the coast?
My friends are going there for one of the Music festivals (they are performing) and looking for a place.
It sounds like you had a good experience in Amalfi, and also know Minori and Maori. Any ideas would be appreciated!
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Old Jun 11th, 2004, 01:00 AM
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Sea Urchin,

Sounds like a great trip. I love the hairdresser experience. Sometimes you just have to go with it! I don't think 80 euro was expensive compated to Dublin Prices. I pay apprix 100 for cut and colour and its not the most expensive place in town but I like the girl who does my hair. I must get my hair done in another country...haven't done it in ages
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Old Jun 11th, 2004, 08:36 AM
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SeaUrchin - I have truly enjoyed your stories, laughing out loud many times! In your latest update, you mention shoes in Sorrento. Where do you recommend? I am planning to go in August and love shoes and love to shop. Any tips would be great.
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