Very belated Italy trip report: thanks, fodorites!
Jan 6th, 2004 | 01:42 PM
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Very belated Italy trip report: thanks, fodorites!
This is my first post here, but I got a lot of good ideas from this site and would be happy to answer any questions about my great trip to Italy, spring 2003. My fourth trip, but it had been years; husband's first; met up with relatives for part of the trip. Our focus inluded returns to favorite places of mine, a combination of nature and culture, and plenty of eating and drinking.
Our itineray was affected by the days we could get reservations in Chianti and in Venice. Some places we winged, with good results.
Flew British Air into Milan via Heathrow. One night at hotel Zurigo, 15 minutes walk to the Piazza Duomo/Galleria for people watching and eating. Tiny room but very adequate. Visited the fun Sunday antique/flea market (in the canal area) the next day before our train to Santa Margherita.
One evening/night Santa Margherita, hotel Fasce. Nice hotel, "brisk" service. Loved the town, wonderful dinner, one night enough for us, however.
Trained to Levanto the next day; left our luggage at the station, checked out the town found a hotel and stayed two nights. Hotel Europa was friendly, catered to Italians and Germans, simple but very adequate. Perfect location to travel the short distance into the Cinqueterre for hiking/hanging out and eating pesto. I would stay in Levanto again: pretty location, nice restaurants, good for strolling, nice people and great gelato.
Trained to Venice for three perfect nights (second visit there). Stayed at tiny Casa Martini in the Canareggio district. Maybe not the best location for first time visits, but we loved it: wonderful hosts, who sent us to "local" restaurants down dark, mysterious passage ways, a laundromat and internet cafe across the street. Not for those who need to be near San Marco, although we went there each day anyway.
Trained to Verona where we had a rental car waiting. One unexpected night there; had planned to start driving to the Dolomites, but changed our minds on the spot. Tried Hotel Torcolo (Sorry, I think that is the spelling), but full. Nice owner sent us to hotel Armando. Simple and when we were there Italian only spoken, but very clean and friendly. Close to the Arena, and we could park on the street. Verona turned out to be one of our favorite spots: convenient, the most amazing fashionistas we saw, and, as wine lovers, we really enjoyed a couple of the wine bars. Oh, and the Arena, of course. Lovely, especially if you are not getting to Rome.
Next day drove into the Dolomites; we are road-trip types, so really enjoyed our long day of driving(this was a key part of the trip for us, so out of the way but not "skipable"
.Weird note: The hookers alongside the road/vineyards... very bizarre! Visited the Iceman museum in Bolzano; stayed in Castlerotto two nights and enjoyed the Austrian influences, the beauty, the hiking (some snow on the ground in places)and our inexpensive zimmer.
Back through Verona, where we spent another night at the Armando and were greeted (in Italian)like old friends. Again,Verona was the unplanned surprise of our trip!
Trained down to Perugia for just one day/night to meet the rest of our party (for various reasons this was the best place for us to meet, and it gave us a chance to see Assisi). Would love to return and spend more time in Umbria -- our time in Perugia was great and much too short. Assisi was a personal highlight of this trip.
Continued (in our friends car)on to spend three nights together in a charming agriturismo near Greve (Chianti/Tuscany) where we happily hung out, cooked, played cards, shopped in the market, walked the hills and relaxed! Most of us had been to Florence, so we just went for a day trip to see favorite sites (and a new one for all of us, the Science museum!)If the art/shopping buffs among us had not been to Florence before, we would have spent more time there; a day was perfect for our group.
Final days of the trip had to accommodate us getting back near Milan to fly home and our companions continuing their driving towards Switzerland. Settled on a day/night visit to Lake Garda (beautiful in the rain/mist) and then went our separte ways. Final night back in Milan, concluding with one of our best meals of the trip.
This is a lot of ground to cover in three weeks, but it worked for our style/needs. Got to spend a few nights in the places most important to us, and still to see a lot of diversity and make everyone happy. Train and car both worked out great. Thanks to this site for some great suggestions!
Our itineray was affected by the days we could get reservations in Chianti and in Venice. Some places we winged, with good results.
Flew British Air into Milan via Heathrow. One night at hotel Zurigo, 15 minutes walk to the Piazza Duomo/Galleria for people watching and eating. Tiny room but very adequate. Visited the fun Sunday antique/flea market (in the canal area) the next day before our train to Santa Margherita.
One evening/night Santa Margherita, hotel Fasce. Nice hotel, "brisk" service. Loved the town, wonderful dinner, one night enough for us, however.
Trained to Levanto the next day; left our luggage at the station, checked out the town found a hotel and stayed two nights. Hotel Europa was friendly, catered to Italians and Germans, simple but very adequate. Perfect location to travel the short distance into the Cinqueterre for hiking/hanging out and eating pesto. I would stay in Levanto again: pretty location, nice restaurants, good for strolling, nice people and great gelato.
Trained to Venice for three perfect nights (second visit there). Stayed at tiny Casa Martini in the Canareggio district. Maybe not the best location for first time visits, but we loved it: wonderful hosts, who sent us to "local" restaurants down dark, mysterious passage ways, a laundromat and internet cafe across the street. Not for those who need to be near San Marco, although we went there each day anyway.
Trained to Verona where we had a rental car waiting. One unexpected night there; had planned to start driving to the Dolomites, but changed our minds on the spot. Tried Hotel Torcolo (Sorry, I think that is the spelling), but full. Nice owner sent us to hotel Armando. Simple and when we were there Italian only spoken, but very clean and friendly. Close to the Arena, and we could park on the street. Verona turned out to be one of our favorite spots: convenient, the most amazing fashionistas we saw, and, as wine lovers, we really enjoyed a couple of the wine bars. Oh, and the Arena, of course. Lovely, especially if you are not getting to Rome.
Next day drove into the Dolomites; we are road-trip types, so really enjoyed our long day of driving(this was a key part of the trip for us, so out of the way but not "skipable"
.Weird note: The hookers alongside the road/vineyards... very bizarre! Visited the Iceman museum in Bolzano; stayed in Castlerotto two nights and enjoyed the Austrian influences, the beauty, the hiking (some snow on the ground in places)and our inexpensive zimmer.Back through Verona, where we spent another night at the Armando and were greeted (in Italian)like old friends. Again,Verona was the unplanned surprise of our trip!
Trained down to Perugia for just one day/night to meet the rest of our party (for various reasons this was the best place for us to meet, and it gave us a chance to see Assisi). Would love to return and spend more time in Umbria -- our time in Perugia was great and much too short. Assisi was a personal highlight of this trip.
Continued (in our friends car)on to spend three nights together in a charming agriturismo near Greve (Chianti/Tuscany) where we happily hung out, cooked, played cards, shopped in the market, walked the hills and relaxed! Most of us had been to Florence, so we just went for a day trip to see favorite sites (and a new one for all of us, the Science museum!)If the art/shopping buffs among us had not been to Florence before, we would have spent more time there; a day was perfect for our group.
Final days of the trip had to accommodate us getting back near Milan to fly home and our companions continuing their driving towards Switzerland. Settled on a day/night visit to Lake Garda (beautiful in the rain/mist) and then went our separte ways. Final night back in Milan, concluding with one of our best meals of the trip.
This is a lot of ground to cover in three weeks, but it worked for our style/needs. Got to spend a few nights in the places most important to us, and still to see a lot of diversity and make everyone happy. Train and car both worked out great. Thanks to this site for some great suggestions!
Jan 6th, 2004 | 04:02 PM
#5
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Thank you so much for the report Annabelle! In March 2003 I made my 11th trip to Europe and I still have tons of questions when I go somewhere new! I love to hear about good hotels and guest houses I can trust to be clean and safe! I am very adventurous and always willing to try new things & places and your trip sounds like you also like to see a bit of "real life!"
I've been to Milan twice for business, but next summer my husband & I are going further south, so your report will come in handy!
Lily
I've been to Milan twice for business, but next summer my husband & I are going further south, so your report will come in handy!
Lily
Jan 6th, 2004 | 04:04 PM
#6
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Hi Wendy
From my understanding, an agriturismo is a farm (ours had olives and grapes) that rents out rooms (b&b style) and/or apartments. There are websites that specialize in these, especially, it seems, in Umbria and Tuscany. I don't have the website anymore, but see what you can find with "agriturismos in tuscany" or something like that! Ours was called Podere Torre; they had three rooms only, only one of which had a kitchen. Definitely NOT like villa-renting, but just what we wanted. The owners bought it as a fairly run-down property; he is an architect, I think, and so it is a labor of love for them. Very nice people, but you need to NOT mind long, hilly dirt roads, and a country-atmosphere! The roses and the view...ahhh! Heaven
From my understanding, an agriturismo is a farm (ours had olives and grapes) that rents out rooms (b&b style) and/or apartments. There are websites that specialize in these, especially, it seems, in Umbria and Tuscany. I don't have the website anymore, but see what you can find with "agriturismos in tuscany" or something like that! Ours was called Podere Torre; they had three rooms only, only one of which had a kitchen. Definitely NOT like villa-renting, but just what we wanted. The owners bought it as a fairly run-down property; he is an architect, I think, and so it is a labor of love for them. Very nice people, but you need to NOT mind long, hilly dirt roads, and a country-atmosphere! The roses and the view...ahhh! Heaven
Jan 6th, 2004 | 04:08 PM
#7
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Hi LilyLace
You are right, I like nice places and don't mind tourist spots (they are usually tourist spots for a reason!) but I like off-the beaten track, too, AND I have a limited budget! All the places we stayed on the Italy trip were good choices for us, so if you have any questions, let me know! Have fun planning your trip. I am jealous!
You are right, I like nice places and don't mind tourist spots (they are usually tourist spots for a reason!) but I like off-the beaten track, too, AND I have a limited budget! All the places we stayed on the Italy trip were good choices for us, so if you have any questions, let me know! Have fun planning your trip. I am jealous!
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Jan 16th, 2004 | 01:12 PM
#9
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Hi traveling
We went to the Dolomites in very early June. I found a website, I think it was called Dolomites.com, that had multilingual information and current weather updates. The BEST information I had came from friends who spent a lot of time there and wrote a book "The Dolomites" by Anne and Jim Goldsmith. It may be out of print but worth looking around for; it has very good details on hiking (and skiing for the winter).
We liked the fantastic scenery, Austrian-Italian food, and good variety of places to stay. Castelrotto was a nice base, with good hiking/walking trails nearby in the Alpe di Suisi (I don't have the spelling handy, it is a huge alpine meadow). We just drove into town and found a simple but charming Garni (like a b&b) where they spoke to us in German (which we don't really speak, but it all worked out fine); there were lots of places like this renting zimmers (rooms) as well as a variety of hotel lodging. There was a small festival of sorts when we were there, bringing the cows through town to higher patstures -- very fun. We also went through Cortina and found it much more closed down than Castelrotto during early June; if you are going this early, keep that it mind. Also drove through the Val Gardena area, very beautiful.
There are numerous hiking trails in the Dolomites; again, we had the "Dolomites" book with us and used it to choose places to hike; also Rick Steves Italy book has some good suggestions. The higher trails were still snow covered when we were there, which limited our options.
It is helpful to have a German phrasebook if you don't speak German; of course Italian is an "official" language in the Dolomites but we found German used more in certain areas.
The driving invlolved VERY winding roads but we had no problems. Lots of bicyclists to watch out for, and many hairpin turns.
Not sure on the drive time to Switzerland, but I may have some information at home on that, so I will check!
See the Iceman in Bolzano; the archeology museum is a great preview to the geology and history of the Dolomites.
I hope this helps a little!
We went to the Dolomites in very early June. I found a website, I think it was called Dolomites.com, that had multilingual information and current weather updates. The BEST information I had came from friends who spent a lot of time there and wrote a book "The Dolomites" by Anne and Jim Goldsmith. It may be out of print but worth looking around for; it has very good details on hiking (and skiing for the winter).
We liked the fantastic scenery, Austrian-Italian food, and good variety of places to stay. Castelrotto was a nice base, with good hiking/walking trails nearby in the Alpe di Suisi (I don't have the spelling handy, it is a huge alpine meadow). We just drove into town and found a simple but charming Garni (like a b&b) where they spoke to us in German (which we don't really speak, but it all worked out fine); there were lots of places like this renting zimmers (rooms) as well as a variety of hotel lodging. There was a small festival of sorts when we were there, bringing the cows through town to higher patstures -- very fun. We also went through Cortina and found it much more closed down than Castelrotto during early June; if you are going this early, keep that it mind. Also drove through the Val Gardena area, very beautiful.
There are numerous hiking trails in the Dolomites; again, we had the "Dolomites" book with us and used it to choose places to hike; also Rick Steves Italy book has some good suggestions. The higher trails were still snow covered when we were there, which limited our options.
It is helpful to have a German phrasebook if you don't speak German; of course Italian is an "official" language in the Dolomites but we found German used more in certain areas.
The driving invlolved VERY winding roads but we had no problems. Lots of bicyclists to watch out for, and many hairpin turns.
Not sure on the drive time to Switzerland, but I may have some information at home on that, so I will check!
See the Iceman in Bolzano; the archeology museum is a great preview to the geology and history of the Dolomites.
I hope this helps a little!
Mar 6th, 2004 | 09:43 AM
#13
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Annabelle: We are planning to stay in Dolomites 3 nights and driving from Bolzano back to Milan. Where did you stay in Dolomites? We are thinking two nights in Castelrotto and one night in Cortina. Has anyone driven from Bolzano to Milan? What is the best route? Will it take more than 3 hrs?
Mar 6th, 2004 | 04:35 PM
#14
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Hi traveling
We did about the same thing; first Castelrotto and then Cortina. In Castelrotto we just drove into town and drove around a bit until we found a garni (b&b) we liked the looks of. Of all the places on our trip, this was the cheapest --simple and spotlessly clean. It is also the ONE place I don't seem to have the name of, but there are a lot of options, you probably couldn't go wrong! There are numerous places to stay there, both hotels and simple rooms to rent. WHEN are you going? This will make a big difference in needing a reservation or not. We were there in late May and things were very quiet.
Eat dinner at the Cavallino d'Oro;the food was delicious and it gets lots of good reviews on this site and others. Staying there looks nice!
Coritna is bigger and more "Italian" feeling after the very Austrian feel of Castelrotto. We stayed at Hotel Natale; nice rooms and good breakfast. Cortina, however, was definitely in slow season in late May: many shops and restaurants were not open at all and it had a bit of a ghost-town feeling.
Friends of ours really liked staying in the town of Ortisei in the Val Gardena area. We drove through and liked the area: very beautiful and the town is nice -- famous for wood carving.
We drove from Verona, but I looked in my Dolomites book and the most direct way from Milan seems through Brescia and then to Trento and on to Bolzano. About three hours. Try mappy.com or mapquest.com. We used these sites to get ideas on routes and driving times.
Hope this helps!
Annabelle2
We did about the same thing; first Castelrotto and then Cortina. In Castelrotto we just drove into town and drove around a bit until we found a garni (b&b) we liked the looks of. Of all the places on our trip, this was the cheapest --simple and spotlessly clean. It is also the ONE place I don't seem to have the name of, but there are a lot of options, you probably couldn't go wrong! There are numerous places to stay there, both hotels and simple rooms to rent. WHEN are you going? This will make a big difference in needing a reservation or not. We were there in late May and things were very quiet.
Eat dinner at the Cavallino d'Oro;the food was delicious and it gets lots of good reviews on this site and others. Staying there looks nice!
Coritna is bigger and more "Italian" feeling after the very Austrian feel of Castelrotto. We stayed at Hotel Natale; nice rooms and good breakfast. Cortina, however, was definitely in slow season in late May: many shops and restaurants were not open at all and it had a bit of a ghost-town feeling.
Friends of ours really liked staying in the town of Ortisei in the Val Gardena area. We drove through and liked the area: very beautiful and the town is nice -- famous for wood carving.
We drove from Verona, but I looked in my Dolomites book and the most direct way from Milan seems through Brescia and then to Trento and on to Bolzano. About three hours. Try mappy.com or mapquest.com. We used these sites to get ideas on routes and driving times.
Hope this helps!
Annabelle2
Mar 24th, 2004 | 03:34 PM
#15
Joined: Feb 2003
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Annabelle: Thanks for the info. We're going 1st week of July, so I believe it's just before things get too crowded. In the process of booking Cavallino Bianco in Ortesi, as I think the hiking will be the best from that area. Anyone have any comments on this hotel or hiking trails in Ortesi? Trying to decide if we should bother to move on to Cortina, since I believe it's another hour and a half away. Most hotels I contacted will not take reservations prior to 1 or 2 weeks before. Think it's okay to wait until last minute?
Mar 25th, 2004 | 02:30 AM
#16
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Traveling - I often go in the Cavallino Bianco for a drink although I've never stayed there. I'm sure you won't be disappointed - it's one of the top hotels in Ortisei.
Re hiking - check out which lifts are open in early July. The Val Gardena lifts from Ortisei, Santa Cristina and Selva take you up to fine hiking country.
There are also 'Via Ferrata' if you've got a head for heights
The mountain guide groups also offer guided hikes in the Val Gardena if you're interested in organised excursions.
If you have a car you have even more options.
Steve
Re hiking - check out which lifts are open in early July. The Val Gardena lifts from Ortisei, Santa Cristina and Selva take you up to fine hiking country.
There are also 'Via Ferrata' if you've got a head for heights
The mountain guide groups also offer guided hikes in the Val Gardena if you're interested in organised excursions.
If you have a car you have even more options.
Steve
Mar 27th, 2004 | 12:22 AM
#19
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Hi traveling
I would try and reserve your Dolomite hotels asap, since the hiking season seems to start late June/early July.
While we are glad we saw Cortina, I liked being in the Castelrotto area (which is in the Val Gardena, the same general area as Ortisei where you are staying) because of the smaller size of the town. Cortina, while not that big itself, seemed more "city-ish" (but it IS in a spectacular location). I don't think you can go wrong; I don't know what the snowpack is like there this year, but in early July you should be able to find good hiking in many areas.
And wildflowers...
Byrd, you are welcome!
Mars, if you look under "restaurants in Venice italy" in the search box on this forum, you can find tons of comments. I am sorry to report that I don't seem to have the names handy of the places our great hotel hosts sent us to in Canareggio (little out of the way locals' places...yum!) but I will keep looking for you! One place we did like, in San Polo, I think, that gets mixed reviews here, is Trattoria alla Madonna. We had fun and a good lunch. Yes, tourists eat there, but chatting with the Italian couple eating next to us (practically in our lap, the tables are close) was a memorable moment on our trip.
Spend the money to have an expensive glass of prosecco or wine or a beer in one of the classic San Marco cafes like Florian while you soak in the atmosphere and history of the Piazza.
Then save money and have a tasty lunch at a "regular" cafe -- the sandwiches in Venice cafe's were great.
Lucky you, a 5 week trip!
I would try and reserve your Dolomite hotels asap, since the hiking season seems to start late June/early July.
While we are glad we saw Cortina, I liked being in the Castelrotto area (which is in the Val Gardena, the same general area as Ortisei where you are staying) because of the smaller size of the town. Cortina, while not that big itself, seemed more "city-ish" (but it IS in a spectacular location). I don't think you can go wrong; I don't know what the snowpack is like there this year, but in early July you should be able to find good hiking in many areas.
And wildflowers...
Byrd, you are welcome!
Mars, if you look under "restaurants in Venice italy" in the search box on this forum, you can find tons of comments. I am sorry to report that I don't seem to have the names handy of the places our great hotel hosts sent us to in Canareggio (little out of the way locals' places...yum!) but I will keep looking for you! One place we did like, in San Polo, I think, that gets mixed reviews here, is Trattoria alla Madonna. We had fun and a good lunch. Yes, tourists eat there, but chatting with the Italian couple eating next to us (practically in our lap, the tables are close) was a memorable moment on our trip.
Spend the money to have an expensive glass of prosecco or wine or a beer in one of the classic San Marco cafes like Florian while you soak in the atmosphere and history of the Piazza.
Then save money and have a tasty lunch at a "regular" cafe -- the sandwiches in Venice cafe's were great.
Lucky you, a 5 week trip!
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