elaine

Hi, not much regarding sightseeing or logistics--those are in my long Venice file which I will be happy to send to anyone who emails me <BR>Hotel Colombina Calle dei Remedio, Castello 4416, phone 39 041 277 0525; fax, 39 041 277 6044, www.hotelcolombina.com I haven't stayed there but I had originally reserved a triple room there; I decided to change to the Saturnia & Internazionale instead. I was curious about the Colombina which has only been open for two years, so I went to look at it. Location is behind P. San Marco, a 7-10 minute walk from the San Zaccaria vaporetto stop. Walking there the first time might be a little confusing, but after that it's easy. Since it's new, everything about it is fresh and attractive. I saw a large double that could accommodate a third person in a nice built-in daybed, and I also saw a standard double. Rooms were medium-sized; I would not call them small by European standards. Bathrooms also medium-sized, completely modern. Room décor traditional, but light, airy, and charming. Very quiet location, especially the rooms that face the courtyard. Attractive breakfast room, and breakfast is included in the price. There's also a bar on the main floor. I may very well try this place next time. <BR> <BR>Hotel Saturnia via XXII Marzo 2398 tel 041 208377, fax 041 5207131 email [email protected] www.hotelsaturnia.it The Saturnia has a great location 5 minutes from Piazza San Marco, just down the street from the Bauer, the Europa Regina, and the Flora, among others. Some rooms face a courtyard that in nice weather is used by the hotel's praised La Caravella restaurant. This means you may hear a little music or restaurant sounds until about 11pm or so, but nothing raucous. The staff ranged from polite, to polite and very friendly. All were helpful. Our twin-bedded room would have been more than large enough to comfortably accommodate a third bed on request. Bathroom was good-sized, with shower plus tub. Hotel has a nice outdoor sundeck with a gorgeous view of the Salute church, tables and chairs. However, I don't know that I'll stay at that hotel again. We knew we were splurging on the approx $375 per night cost (we were three people) but the décor can only be described by me as "tired", not shabby just very much in need of a redo. Furniture was old fashioned and dark wood, floors dark wood, everything about the room was dark which wasn't helped by the 25-watt lightbulbs on wall sconces. For that money I would prefer a more modernized hotel, or else I'd rather pay much less for a much smaller room at the Flora. IMO, the Saturnia was not a good value for the lira. For an alternative, see my comments above on the Colombina. <BR>cont'd

elaine

Restaurants <BR>Da Fiore <BR>Calle del Scaleter 2202, San Polo; Tel. +39 041 721308; Closed Sunday & Monday <BR>It was perfect. We had a table in the back, overlooking a canal. Subdued atmosphere, dressy, service was formal but not off-putting. They even brought a little stool to hold my handbag. Outstanding food. The squash risotto was mouthwatering. Cost the equivalent of almost $200 for two with a bottle of wine. This was one of the best dining experiences of my life. <BR> <BR>Florian's, Piazza San Marco. People criticize this place for its high prices, but as far as I'm concerned their gelato is among the best--it will cost you $10 for the dish of three small scoops, but then again you are eating it on Piazza San Marco. Even if you think you don't like hazelnut, try the hazelnut gelato. Trust me. <BR> <BR>Da Ivo <BR>Calle dei Fuseri 1809, vaporetto San Marco, reservations "essential", <BR>This disappointed us very much, I found it good but forgettable. The Florentine steak was very good, but nothing else about the food, décor, or rather rushed service stood out for us, and for the money there are many other places I would rather choose. <BR> <BR>Sempione, Ponte Baraterri 578, San Marco. Phone 041 522 6022 <BR>A little tricky to find: Leave Piazza San Marco by the Mercerie d'Orologico, follow it as it turns into Calle dei Pignoi, and then your are on the Bareterri bridge. Stand on the bridge, the Splendid hotel will be on your right and Sempione is on your left. <BR>We really loved this place and it's a great value. Go after 8:30 when the tourists thin out and it will be a less hectic experience. Really excellent food, friendly service, casual dress, waiters speak many languages. Décor isn't much, but don't let that put you off when you walk in. About $70 for full meal for two with house wine. I had Venetian specialities, sardines in saor, and calve's liver, but there are many other choices. Highly recommended. <BR> <BR>Ristorante da Raffaele Calle Larga XXII Marzo (Fondamenta delle Ostreghe), San Marco 2347 Phone 041-523-2317 <BR>It is connected to the Do Pozzi hotel, hotel guests get (or used to get) a discount at the restaurant. outdoor tables overlooking a small canal, with gondolas occasionally gliding past. Indoor seating as well. They don't frown if you just want to order a first course and a pasta, which is great because it is the meat and fish dishes that are more expensive. Food very good, perhaps not outstanding, but combined with the setting I very much like this place. Can't pretend that the clientele isn't more tourist than Venetian, but I like it anyway. Casual, but not jeans in my opinion, especially if you are going to sit inside. I choose this place for my first night in Venice when I'm tired and don't want to dress much, and when I don't want to walk very far from my San Marco area hotel. <BR>

elaine

For places in Venice to buy glass, as well as masks and other Venetian specialties, timeout.com has great lists of shops. Here are a few places I found on my own. <BR>Stuffi, Ruga Giuffa 4867 Castello, not far from Santa Maria Formosa. Prints, desk accessories, stationery, other small gifts <BR>Perle Veneziane, Pondte della Canonica 4308, San Marco. They may have other shops in Venice; I know they have one at the airport. Beautiful jewelry made of Venetian glass beads. <BR>Papier Mache: Castello 5175, Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa. Open 9am to 7:00pm and often on Sundays. This workshop/retail store is a gem if you are interested in handmade masks and can pay accordingly. The decoration determines the price and masks come in all sizes and are made to be hung rather than worn. These are just gorgeous, and the owners (husband and wife) take great pride in their work. <BR> <BR>I took Fodorite Paulo's advice (where's he been lately anyway?) and attended mass at San Marco, on a weekday. Mass was at 9:30am (earlier as well, I think) and the Basilica doesn't open to the public until 9:45, so when Mass was over at 9:30 we had the Basilica to stroll through without the crowds. Couldn't get up to the loggia until everything was officially opened. I am not Catholic but this was an interesting and beautiful way to experience St Mark's. <BR>

elaine

if only my brain had spell check <BR>that was <BR>Calf's liver

robin-k

How did this trip to Venice compare to your previous visits? Explore any out of the way places? Interesting churches? Or returns to a favorite site?

elaine

Venice is my dream, I love it, I am sad to not be there now. <BR>I am a compulsive sightseer (my sister, a first-time visitor to Venice, now tells people she went to Venice with Napoleon) so I've seen scads of churches. <BR>On this trip I did not go to the Accademia, P. Guggenheim, or the <BR>Correr, just because I wanted to try some new places. I still haven't gotten to the Scuola di San Rocco, I'm sorry to say. <BR>Here are a few places I went this time, can't claim that they should all be on the list for a first-timer (I didn't make my sister go to all of them with me) <BR>The Museo Diocesano: Leave PSM from the Piazetta do Leoni, to the left of the Basilica as you face it. Turn right immediately and find Ponte della Canonica. Across this bridge and immediately to the right is the entrance to this small museum which has mostly church treasures, occasional special exhibits, tapestries designed by Tintoretto and Tiepolo. What makes this museum worthwhile to me is its arched Romanesque courtyard cloister, lovely to see. Museum is closed Sundays I think, and open other days only until noon or 12:30. <BR> <BR>San Francesco della Vigna. The bas reliefs in the chapel to the left of the high altar are by the Lombardos, said to be Venice's greatest Renaissance sculptors. And inside a chapel farther to the left is Giovanni Bellini's Madonna and Child with Saints. This church's cloisters are a lovely tranquil spot in Venice. <BR> <BR>S. Giorgio Maggiore was designed by noted architect Palladio, although the steeple is newer, previous ones having fallen down. This church is on its own island of the same name, separated by a narrow strip of water from Giudecca Island, which is home to another Palladian church called the Redentore (closed at the moment for renovation), as well as to the famous Cipriani hotel, immediately south of the Palazzo Ducale. S G Maggiore: There are two pictures by Tintoretto in the chancel - The Fall of Manna and The Last Supper. On the left of the choir a corridor leads to the Campanile, the best vantage point in the city. You will have a view of the Salute, the Doge's Palace, and the entire San Marco-Castello waterfront. <BR> <BR>The Museo della fond. Querini Stampalia is a private palazzo turned into a museum. Features furniture and objects from the 16th century, plus important paintings by Bellini, Longhi, and Tiepolo. Occasional special exhibits--I just saw one of Whistler's etchings of Venice. Closed Mondays and at some point during riposo. Check the hours. <BR> <BR>Campo San Vio <BR>In Dorsoduro, the only Campo that actually faces the Grand Canal. Has some grass and trees, too.

Heather

Elaine, thank you so much for the wonderful report on your trip. I'm filing it for use in 2002 (I hope). <BR> <BR>Glad you felt the same way about Da Fiore as I did this Summer. It still makes my mouth water to think about the meal. I still haven't splured on Florian's yet, but will follow your urging to do so next year. <BR> <BR>Next time, make it a priority to see the Scuola di San Rocco. It took me three trips to get there, but it was well worth the effort. Mirrors are provided to view the works on the ceilings, so no neck cramps. <BR> <BR>I'm dropping you an email for your Venice notes. Thank you for the offer.

Frank

Elaine: Ah, you brought back wonderful memories of Venice, especially Ristorante da Raffaele. We ate at the outdoor cafe late one evening this past May. The geraniums were in bloom, the small canal was still and beautifully reflecting the light. The stillness was occasionally broken by the sounds of the gondolas cutting through the water. The food and service were good, but the setting was other worldly. It was great re-living Venice through your report. Thanks.

dan woodlief

Elaine, you said that Mass was at 9:30 and ended at 9:30, and the basilica opens at 9:45. What time did mass begin? I recall Paulo saying to get there by around 8:45. I have been thinking a lot about taking his advice on this one. Sounds like a good way to start a visit to the basilica. What would you suggest?

Logan

Elaine, <BR>Thanks for the good notes on Venezia--one of the best postings I've read. I may be one who recommended Ristorante da Ivo, as I recommend it regularly. I had one of my most memorable meals there and will be going there again in Nov (if I don't have to cancel), so I will approach it warily this time. It was my best meal in Venice. <BR>I'm interested in the stationery/gift shop you mentioned in Castello and will look for it. <BR>As a fan of the witty, literate detective series set in Venice by American-born Italian university professor Donna Leon, I'm going armed with one of her paperbacks and do a Detective Brunetti self-tour. So this time for me it's forget the Accademia; take me to the Questura!

elaine

Sorry for the typo on weekday mass. <BR>last week there was a mass at 9am that we attended that finished at 9:30, and at least one earlier than that one. We actually arrived at the Basilica at 8:30 and they let us in, but there was no mass going on at the time--perhaps the 8am mass, if there was one, had ended. <BR>There was not one at 8:30. By getting there so early we had to wait a half hour, but we got to listen to some lovely chanting prior to mass--the acoustics are other-worldly. <BR>

robin-k

Elaine: <BR> <BR>Printed out a copy of your Venice file and it's gone way past the "notes" stage --- it's a book! And a well written & organized book at that. I celebrate your anal retentiveness. Thanks for sharing your information & insights about Venice. <BR> <BR>

:) :)

I don't know Elaine personally,but after reading her reports, I somehow trust her judgment and recommendations. I will follow her advice on Da Fiore next week.

Sylvia

Hi Elaine, <BR>I'm glad you had a nice safe trip. Since we had to cancel out 9/15 trip, it was very nice to read about Italy. Some of my travel mates are still nervous, so it looks like it will be May 2003 before we try again. By then, you will have replaced Rick Steves on PBS <BR>

Debbie

Elaine, Reading this makes me want to go back. I would love to have a copy of your trip report for next time. Thank you so much.

dan woodlief

I got your notes last night Elaine and have read through quite a bit. Very thorough. I have had the hardest time getting my wife to participate in planning this trip. She has been very busy with a new job and other things. I will get her to read your notes on the way to Italy, so I am not the only one with a clue when we arrive. Thanks.

sandi

I agree with everyone, great report. I've only been to Venice once, and didn't even know about the Florian until we walked by it last Oct. My husband, son and I stopped in for some refreshements. I was expensive but the oppulence & history of the place is well worth it. It should be a must-see for everyone.

Sheila

Elaine, I loved your report. We will have 3 nights in Venice at the end of October and will take your recommendations along with us. Will report after our return.

DJ

Welcome back Elaine! Great trip report. After reading your post on Venice, I would like to give Venice another try. I must admit, my initial impressions were not quite as enthusiastic as most folks. However, I chaulked this up to several factors. One of which was that our overall dining experiences could have been better. Next time we will definately have them better planned (prior to our departure), and be willing to spend the money to ensure it.

Christie

Thanks for the great info on Venice. I am traveling to Florence and Venice soon. I have 6 nights to split between the two. Any suggestions as to how many nights in each city?