Venice Mini-Report

Sep 11th, 2009, 06:38 AM
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Venice Mini-Report

Two of us took a hastily planned five-day trip to Venice mid-August. We expected hot weather, and we got it. But the canals did not smell as some people had told us they would, and we were not eaten alive by mosquitos either. The month did offer hoards of tourists, but we were never inconvenienced by long lines. This short report is offered for the few nuggets of info we can provide for those researching their future trip.

Dates of Trip: August 13 (arrival) through August 18 (departure). Flew into Marco Polo airport.

Average High during stay: 85F

Surprise of the Trip: Mentally, I always thought Venice was a peninsula. Yeah, I knew that canals were the "streets" of Venice, and goodness knows I had seen pictures of the place. So I think the first major shock to the system was understanding that causeway or not, Venice was basically a group of islands in the middle of the Adriatic that over time developed an infrastructure.

Second surprise of the trip: I can tell you I have always loved world history, yet I was unaware of how the Age of Exploration created the demise of Venice. In fact, I'd say I was totally unaware of Venice's former stature as not only a trading empire-unto-itself but also as a ship-building megamart. I can recite facts about Portuguese, Dutch, Spanish, and English maritime battles, exploration and economics plus their eventual impact upon the economics of the New World, but I hadn't a clue about how all this destroyed the Venetian economy. In fact, had I not been to Istanbul a year ago, I don't think I would have understood the city's tenuous relationship with the Ottoman Empire at all. Living proof of that statement, "Just when you think you know...". And proof that there is ALWAYS a good reason to travel!

Back to the trip itself...

Transportation Method from Airport: Bus 5 D (good with Venice Connected Pass) to Piazzale Roma; vaporetto to Rialto. We could have taken (for over 100E) a water taxi directly from the airport to our hotel's reception desk. More on the Venice Connected Pass below.

Accommodations: Palace Bonvecchiati , San Marco, Calle dei Fabbri 4680 (located on San Marco between Rialto and St. Mark's Square; not to be confused with Hotel Bonvecchiati. Price (discounted) for five nights: 1,080.00 Euros. Included all VAT, misc taxes and breakfast.

We were pleased with the hotel. We had originally booked a Superior Double, but after considering we were two women sharing a bath, we decided that we'd splurge on an Executive Double to get a larger bathroom for more mirror space. You can imagine our surprise that while our assigned room was huge with a private terrace, our bath was teeny-tiny with no additional mirror outside the bathroom.

Luckily, we had arrived quite early in the day, and when I explained to the desk why I had upgraded our original reservation, she looked over her room availability for the largest available Executive Double bathroom. We didn't get a terrace with this one, but considering the heat outside, that was hardly a hardship. The bathroom in the new room wasn't exactly palatial in size, but it was more than adequate, and we also had a decorative mirror outside the bathroom that was perfect for drying hair or applying make-up. There were lots of plugs in the room, our bedding was excellent, the air conditioning was central (though still a bit noisy), and housekeeping serviced the room twice a day. By the way, the bathroom hairdryer was one of those attached-to-the-wall hose ones, so I'm glad I brought my teeny travel one, too.

In researching our hotel, the major complaint I read about was the included breakfast. On the first day, looking at the considerable buffet and having stayed in Italy on prior trips, I thought, "Must have been a lot of spoiled people doing the write-ups." By the third day, I had moved into their camp of opinion. I'll put it this way--no one in the family is going to starve at the Palace Bonvecchiati. There are cereals, fruit, cheese, pastries, eggs, sausage/bacon, juices, etc. But nothing seems to have that much flavor, the eggs/bacon are way overcooked, and the coffee is abysmal. Overall, though, the quality of the breakfast would not prevent me from returning to this hotel.

One of the reasons I had to choose this hotel is that I was traveling with an athlete who had to keep up training. This hotel offered an exercise room (free of charge to guests) that was adequate for her needs. The hot tub and sauna in that area on the 4th floor were an extra charge, but since they were not services we were seeking, that extra pricing was not a problem for us. Internet connection, which we did not use, was available in the rooms via the TV and in the lobby for a charge. I had been warned that it was expensive and not that reliable by other posters. The desk allowed us access to their computers to print out our boarding passes.

Minor but very POSITIVE note: For those of you with a pet peeve with Dynamic Currency Conversion, I was so worried when I went to check out that I was being charged in dollars because the desk manager passed me a receipt with all the same wording I've encountered in the past. I had done battle before over DCC and was very sadly gearing up to do it again. Luckily, my daughter was able to decipher the desk clerk's thick accent and caught me before I went on a tirade. "She's telling you that you are NOT to sign this slip--it is informational only." And sure enough, the desk clerk then passed me the "real" charge receipt, clearly marked in Euros only.

(to be continued)
AlessandraZoe is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 07:00 AM
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Venice Connected passes: Indecision cost me a lot of money. I could not decide whether or not it was worth it to buy a vaporetti pass online OR for what length of time to buy a vaporetti pass. The relatively new pass purchase system is available online at Pricing for passes depends on the time of year and the amount of time in advance you purchase it. I dillydallied so long that I had to pay full price for our passes.

Here was my understandable dilemma. Passes are offered for 7-Day (50 Euros), 3-Day (33 Euros), 2-Day (28 Euros) and 36 hrs (23 Euros). Had I ordered any of those 3 full days in advance, my discounted prices would have been 42.50E, 28.05E, 26.60E, or 21.85E respectively. I was staying five days: the three-day pass was therefore short of our stay and the seven-day was too long. Another factor in my procrastination was the knowledge that we are tireless walkers. In Paris, we just bought carnets on an as-needed basis because we began finding we might only take one metro ride a day, choosing instead to walk miles and miles. In the end, I purchased a 7-day pass at the full price--100 Euros for the two of us.

Although it did not seem as though I made the right decision at first, by the trip's end, we more than got our money's worth.

First, although I had made the decision that I would NOT use the Alilaguna water transport from the airport (25 E both ways with a potential 23.75E discounted price) and would instead pay extra 3E for the ACTV Blue Bus (direct airport service) to Piazzale Roma and then the vaporetto transfer to Rialto, we ended up taking the regular city 5D bus into Piazzale Roma. When I picked up our passes at the Venice Connected desk, I asked the clerk where to get the Blue Bus and its tickets. She said sternly, "You are crazy to take that this time of day. There's more than enough room for you to sit right now, there will not be that many stops, and it's free with your pass." So we meekly boarded the 5D bus (we also could have taken the 5), placed our luggage in the little luggage corral, and took our seats. In 20 minutes we were there. I'd say we only stopped four times. (Note: airport our return via the 5D was more crowded and had more stops, but considering I didn't have to pay one more dime, it was worth the hassle.)

Then our "savings" came to a halt. For the next 36 hours after our arrival, we did very little vaporetto riding. Most of what we saw was by foot, mainly on San Marco where we were staying. By the third day, however, we were hopping on and off all over the place, even taking an excursion out to Burano.

Transport Pass Recommendation:
To each his own for airport transportation. If we were a family of four, water taxi transport would have been easy and fun. For the two of us, it would have made no sense. We would probably do our economy version again, taking the 5 or 5 D, especially since we only travel with light luggage.

As to vaporetto passes, the key is to order early online. If you are staying just a short time--three days or less--I'd argue against buying a pass as long as your hotel is at a central location.

How Does Venice Connected Work?: You order "services" via the "shopping cart". We ordered the transportation passes, a week's worth of toilet cards for one person (more on that below), and museum passes. You are emailed a PNR number plus print-outs of your museum pass with barcodes. As soon as you exit baggage at Marco Polo, the Venice Connected desk is straight ahead. I handed the clerk the email, and she produced the transport passes and counted out 10 toilet cards. As stated above, we were then directed toward the 5D bus into town. We validated our passes on the bus.

Museum Passes: Full price was 18E for adults and 12E for students and had we been on top of our game and ordered three days earlier, would have been discounted for 16E and 10E respectively. Covered were:
•Doge's Palace;
•Correr Museum;
•National Archaeological Museum;
•Grand Chambers of the Marciana National Library;
•Ca'Rezzonico, Museum of Eighteenth Century Venice;
•Carlo Goldoni's House;
•Mocenigo Palace Museum and the Centre of Studies on the History of Textiles and Costumes;
•Ca' Pesaro - International Gallery of Modern Art and the Oriental Art Museum;
•Glass-working Museum at Murano;
•Lace Museum at Burano

Museum Pass Recommendation: I'd recommend getting the St Mark's Museum Plus Pass instead of the full pass(13E/7.50E) for most people. That would have provided entrances to all below:

The four Museums in St. Mark's Square:
•Doge's Palace
•Museo Correr
•Museo Archeologico Nazionale
•Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana

Plus from April 1 to November 1 you can visit an additional municipal museum at your choice:
•Ca'Rezzonico, Museum of Eighteenth Century Venice;
•Carlo Goldoni’s House;
•Mocenigo Palace Museum and the Centre of Studies on the History of Textiles and Costumes;
•Ca' Pesaro - International Gallery of Modern Art and the Oriental Art Museum;
•Glass-working Museum at Murano;
•Lace Museum at Burano
and out of those I'd choose Ca'Rezzonico

We got our money's worth out of the original pass, but we are a little bit "museum crazy" and knew that pre-trip.

Toilet Cards: Let's just say that both of us had some digestive challenges pre-trip, and I couldn't take a chance that we would be anywhere without access to a clean toilet. Ten toilet cards (one week for one person, but anyone can use the cards) cost me 9 Euros (7E if I had ordered early). I still have six left. They really were not needed. We did just fine using museum bathrooms and our hotel's location was such that we passed it frequently during the day. However, our trip to the island Burano necessitated two visits per person there. Each of those public bathroom visits would otherwise have cost us 1.5 Euros. So all in all, I'm only out 3 Euros and I can use the leftover six cards on a return trip (have explained to my husband the need to return to Venice with him so I can use the toilet cards).

Tour Books Used: In addition to reading SlowTrav, TripAdvisor and Fodor's forums, I took an "Insight City Guide Venice" and "Rick Steve's Venice", plus a Kindle version of "Chow! Venice". Had I had more time to plan the trip, I probably would not have relied so heavily on Rick Steves, but I do have to say that for a hastily planned excursion, his book came in handy. Thanks to his touring guidelines, we never waited in a line other than to get into a vaporetto.

MP3 Tip: Before the trip, we downloaded 4 free Rick Steves audiotours to my daughter's iphone. She had set the phone in airplane mode, so we were not charged for any data. We each brought our earphones plus a splitter, so for the Grand Canal via vaporetto, St. Mark's,St. Mark's Square, and The Frari Church,we had a very relaxing tour. We found many other free audiotours online, but quite frankly, they seemed so boring that we rejected downloading them. By the way, we also used the splitter for any place that charged us for audiotours. Although we felt like conjoined twins at time, it worked rather well that we didn't have to do our usual synching of audiotours.

Favorite sights/experiences:
•Travelling vaporetti at night--the heat of the day translates into velvet nights
•St. Marks Square at night--"battling" orchestras, a softly lit square, and dancing couples
•The island of Burano--we were totally unprepared for its charm

Favorite museums/churches
•Peggy Guggenheim
•Frari Church
AlessandraZoe is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 07:06 AM
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(trip report continued)
Restaurant Tips:
Although we ate at Bistrot de Venice (San Marco,Calle dei Fabbri) three times and liked it, it was more a matter of convenience and our exhaustion than true affection. It's situated across from our hotel. The food is good, but it's also pretty pricey. The bartending staff, though, are gems.

If you would have told me I'd be recommending a tourist pizza place, I would have never believed it. But the Academia Pizzaria, smack dab between the Academia bridge and the museum, was a perfect stopping point in the middle of a long touring day. Their limited menu is priced appropriately with no hidden charges. Service is fast, the outside location manages to catch breezes on a stifling hot day, and the pizza was good! Again, this is not a recommendation for a fine dining experience, but boy did it fill a need!

Al Garanchelo is a family-owned establishment not far from the Rialto fish market on Calle dei Botteri (DO NOT CONFUSE THIS WITH THE ONE ON VIA GARIBALDI). We ate here our last night and feel bad we did not discover it our first night. It's the type of place where the kitchen staff, even the dishwasher, would come out from time to time to see how everyone was liking their meals. The owners are the waitstaff, and they have no problem telling any newcomers "I don't think you have ordered enough" OR "You have ordered too much--may I suggest..." If you have a family, this is the place to go.

And for entertainment value...We had decided to Antica Birraria La Corte based on others' recommendations. There were very few tables filled there, but we were given the ugliest table facing a defaced wall. When I asked if we could sit in another location, I was given a stern "no." I have to say that other posters have said that this restaurant really is more interested in their local clients than in tourists, but at the same time, I'd like to point out that their BEST tables weren't exactly prizes, so... Anyway, it had been a long day, and forking over $$$$$ to look at this ugly wall for an hour or more didn't appeal to me. So we did what we knew was insane--we left and walked along the canal near Rialto bridge and plopped down in prime tourist rip-off territory.

We had a GREAT time! I can't remember the restaurant--they all look alike there--but the summer evening was lovely, the strung lights were so welcoming, and the service was pretty darn good. Our food was better than we expected, and our bill was not outrageous. What was free was the floor show--the maitre d' and the entire staff shooing people away from the prime, canal-side tables. One tourist moved in and stood his ground, and the entire waitstaff moved in and physically threatened him. As he moved down the street, they followed him shouting insults. Another man had made a reservation for six and had at the last minute changed it to 10, demanding that the staff accomdate his needs. They shouted at him and chased him down the street, too. We LOVED it!

to be continued
AlessandraZoe is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 07:18 AM
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Internet Note:
On past trips, I've paid for internet service only to be given something unreliable that is more trouble than it's worth, wasting my vacation time for worthless, ineffective communication. This trip,I did need to check for some important emails, and I considered testing out the Venice Connected charge for the new citywide WiFi service. Although techno-savvy friends showed us how to turn on WiFi for the iphone in airplane mode, we eventually decided that we'd just ask others to review our emails in case there was anything urgent.

For us, it was the perfect decision. While we were in Venice, we were IN Venice, not tethered to lives back home. No urgent emails came through, so we would have just wasted our efforts.

However, I feel bad that I cannot report for other members of this forum about our hotel's service (though one client was complaining about it while we were there) or the Venice Connected WiFi. I CAN tell you that we saw many restaurants with "Free WiFi connection if you eat inside" signs, which might be a viable option for people searching for an economical solution.

I hope this rather outlined report has been of some help. And I thank all others who have taken the time to post about their trips.
AlessandraZoe is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 08:01 AM
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Alessandra: Your report is a gem. full of good information, and making me want to return to Venice.
I must say that we rode the vaporetti all the time, even though we walked about 3 miles a day. (DH is walking-phobic, and even HE walked 3 miles.
But we didn't want to give up our nightly Grand Canal vaporetto ride. Every late evening, we just jumped on and went all the way around. We were with friends who had done this, and we just joined in and watched the passing parade of ever-changing Venice.
We also rode out to Burano, Murano, and even Torcello, all of which were fascinating in their own ways.

Many thanks for a very good valuable report.
taconictraveler is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 08:18 AM
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AlessandraZoe-We leave on Monday for Venice and my original plan was to buy the vaporetti pass but not do all the museums, just to walk and get lost in Venice. Now I am re-thinking my plan. Was this your first trip to Venice? You have provided great thorough information here. I did look at the venice connected site previously but wasn't sure I wanted to pre-purchase. The dates we will be there 15-18 are full price so is there any benefit to pre-purchasing? Thanks!
galelstorm is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 10:41 AM
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galelstorm: I so very much identify with your dilemma, especially since you are only there for so short a time and would have to pay full price anyway.

I can't even attempt to tell you what to do, but I can help you work it out.

If your hotel is on San Marco, chances are you only really NEED transport from the airport and to the airport. If you use the public bus/vaporetto for this purpose, that's at most 13E per person per way--and there's a good chance it's actually only 6.50E pp if that ticket allows a bus/vaporetto transportation transfer within one hour--I'm not up on that info at all. You might want to check online about that. So put your airport transport cost against any potential pass purchase cost.

Again, if your hotel is on San Marco, most of what you want to see centers around St. Mark's Square and then the Rialto Bridge area anyway. No transport needed. And you can easily walk over the Accademia bridge from San Marco to explore L'Accademia Museum if you want (we didn't like it), the Guggenheim house and museum (we loved it) and the pretty Santa Maria della Salute Church (worth a stop). So for 99% of your touring for your short stay, no vaporetto would be needed.

You might, though, want to take a vaporetto over to visit the San Giorgio Maggiore, not only the lovely Palladian church but also for the 360 views from its bell tower (it's possible to do this within the hour time limit on your 6.5E ticket; if not, count that as a max 13E cost pp).

I'd say that if all you're going to do intially is ride vaporetti to your hotel and then just do the San Marco/Rialto stuff for the next two days, a pass probably makes no sense for that first 48-hr time period. What then would be the reason to buy a pass for the next 36 or 48 hrs? Well, like taconictraveler wrote above, we too became addicted to taking a nightly vaporetti ride to nowhere, just soaking in Venice. We would not have done that without our passes. And then when we became better judges of distances, we started skipping around from dock to dock as needed, helping us cover more ground when we finally got a grip on what we wanted to see.

Of course, the advantage of buying any pass online is to stand in ONE LINE once when you arrive at San Marco. From then on in, you are just waiting for the boat, not in a ticket queue.

I hope this is helpful in some way for you to make up your mind. And I like your plan--Venice is a LOVELY place in which to get lost early and often!
AlessandraZoe is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 11:16 AM
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Great info! Thank you. I've been wondering about buying the vaporetto pass from Venice Connected, so it's good to hear that it is a good idea to buy it early and that you can pick it up right at the airport. And thanks for the clarification that the same pass covers the bus to/from the aiport and Piazzale Roma. I assume the bus runs frequently from the airport and Piazzale Roma and that it is easy to find the "bus stop."
SCFoodie is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 11:38 AM
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SCFoodie: All buses were right out front of the airport exit doors (it's an easy airport to navigate, too). The Blue Bus is of course blue, so look at the numbers on the non-blue ones. We only ever saw the 5D and 5 anyway at the airport. However, when we returned to the the Piazzale Roma to return to the airport, finding 5 or 5D bus in the huge lot threw us for a loop--had to ask one of the bus drivers. Just make sure you allow enough time then (or just get a ticket for the Blue Bus if you're running late).

Thanks for the compliments, and thank you, too, taconictraveler.
AlessandraZoe is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 11:42 AM
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I just re-read your post SC Foodie, and I may not have answered your question. 5D ENDED at the Piazzale Roma, so that was easy. I was a little confused as to where we got the vaporetto to Rialto after we got off the bus, but we were OK in five minutes. Just keep walking right--you'll end up canalside--and walk along the pathway there until you see the vaporetto docks for all the lines (e.g., 1,2, etc). Your hotel will tell you which line to take, I'm sure.
AlessandraZoe is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 01:23 PM
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WHAT ABOUT IF THE HOTEL IS ON CARNAVAGGIO-ONLY FOR 2-3 NIGHTS sorry didn't realize caps were on
frenchwow is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 01:58 PM
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Do you mean in the Cannaregio? If so, it just depends on WHERE you are in the Cannaregio. We thought one night after dinner near the Rialto fish market that we'd just stroll over to the Venice casino by the vaporetto stop San Marcuolo in the Cannaregio. What WERE we thinking? We didn't have THAT much wine. Well, Venice just doesn't have a lot of bridges (something that's hard to know unless you've walked a few miles to nowhere day after day), so the "as the crow flies" mentality can't apply at all, and what's more, things can be a lot further than they look on any Venice map because of all the mini twists and turns. So if I were staying near the casino, I know I would buy a pass no matter how short my stay.

By the way--really neat area (if it is indeed the Cannaregio of which you speak). Apparently it's one of the last bastions of "true" Venetians, and we heard veteran tourists speak of some fabulous restaurants over that way.
AlessandraZoe is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 02:57 PM
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(have explained to my husband the need to return to Venice with him so I can use the toilet cards).

Good for you!!!

And, thank you for taking the time for clear explanations/descriptions of so many things.
YvonneT is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 06:14 PM
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AlessanraZoe-I did it, bought all four vaporetti passes online, got my PNR, and I can't wait! I want to explore the six sestieri, and head out to Burano and maybe Lido so I believe it is a worthwhile investment. I am not a very patient person so the one line works fabulously for me! Thank you for responding and this post has been wonderfully helpful.
galelstorm is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 08:19 PM
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AlessandraZoe, thanks for a great report. Going in October w/my sister. We were just going to wing it, for the most part. Not anymore. Bookmarking this.
Blacknight is offline  
Sep 11th, 2009, 08:47 PM
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Can anyone clear up a bit of confusion for me. We'll be arriving in Venice via plane and departing for Rome on the train. Which tickets should I get? The Airport Transfer Return pass or the Fusina Zattere pass? Or, just pay the different fares for each destination? I googled Fusina Zattere and (correct me if I'm wrong) that is the parking garage on the mainland.

The rest of the pass info is pretty self explanitory. Thanks
Blacknight is offline  
Sep 12th, 2009, 04:19 AM
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Thanks for all the nice words, folks. I want to correct something--made a typo on my favorite restaurant: It should be Al Garanghelo.

Blacknight, if you are going straight to the train station from the airport, you could do a variety of things, none of which would require the listed Venice Connected Airport Transfer products. I think you could take a water taxi directly to the train, a bus/vaporetto combo, etc.

HOWEVER, if you mean your arrive in Venice via airport, go to your Venice hotel, and then leave a few days later by train, I can help a bit. Ignore for a second those "airport transfer" options online.

Here's the deal--you can get to Venice by at the least four ways from the airport (and please correct anything, guys, that you see is wrong):

Water Taxi:100E or more, but no pp cost. If your hotel has a dock, if you have a lot of luggage, and if you have a party of three or more, this would make some sense. I believe you still must get yourself and your luggage to the airport dock, but after that, you are directly on your way to your hotel with an impressive ride. We could have done this. We just didn't.

Alilaguna:This is a boat that quickly takes you from the airport to one of several available stops. 25E pp both ways, but discount available for advance online pre-purchase. There is no online one-way purchase, but I think the cost one way is 17E pp and you can buy those tickets at the airport. Depending on the line you choose from the airport dock, you can be taken as far as the Rialto vaporetti stop. The map for these 5 lines is Again, you still have to get your luggage to the airport dock.

Airport Direct Bus (Blue Bus)and then Vaporetto: Again, I think the Blue Bus costs 3 E pp one way. You hop on it right in front of the airport and it takes you to the big bus parking lot on Piazzale Roma. From there, you take your luggage to the canal side and purchase a vaporetto ride (6.5 E pp), going to the stop most convenient for your hotel location. I've been told the advantage of the Blue Bus is that there is room for your luggage underneath the bus and that there are no stops between leaving the airport and arriving at Piazzale Roma. I had originally planned to do this option.

Public Bus/Vaporetto: I think, but I am not sure at all, that the 6.5 E for the bus may also cover the vaporetto if completed within one hour. If not, then the max pp price would still only be 13pp to get from the airport to your final vaporetto stop. Both bus and vaporetto would be covered by one of the passes (the 24,36,48,72 or 7-day) which is why the lady at the Venice Connected desk at the airport told me I would be crazy not to take the public bus early a.m. Either the 5D or 5 right at the airport will take you, just like the Blue Bus, to the Piazzale Roma, and then, just like with the Blue Bus, you walk your luggage canalside and jump on the right vaporetto. It worked just fine for us.

It's totally up to you to choose any of the options above to get to your hotel. Then at the end of the stay, you'd just ride a vaporetti (6.5 E pp) to the train station vaporetto stop (Ferrovia S. Lucia)or if your hotel has a dock, then probably water taxi would be an option.
AlessandraZoe is offline  
Sep 12th, 2009, 05:19 AM
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Thanks so much for the detailed information! I'm going to Italy for the second time, leaving for Italy in 5 days and didn't do a lot of research on vaporetti passes as we never used it the first time. Your description of the evening ride sounds wonderful! Can't wait!!
Jo1023 is offline  
Sep 12th, 2009, 05:59 AM
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AlessandraZoe, you are correct in assuming we're stay a few day (3) in Venice before heading to Rome. Thank you so much for your help. Now, at least I know we won't get swallowed up by the canals... LOL
Blacknight is offline  
Sep 12th, 2009, 07:06 AM
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Lots of good info-bookmarking with prayers for a visit to Venice soon!
TDudette is offline  

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