Thank you dreamon and Paqngo. We saw very little public transport in this region, so a car would be critical here.

Thanks Leely and ekscrunchy for your continued interest.

This morning, we set out for Venafro, a town set at the foothills of the Maltese mountains, in beautiful natural surroundings.




As we drove into Venafro, we discovered it was market day, so finding parking was a bit of a challenge.


The market had spilt onto and taken over the "main" streets of Venafro


We began at the medieval Castle Pandone, which houses a museum, and has great views overlooking the town and countryside.


Approaching the castle


Up the stairs


and inside


Views from castle


View from belvedere and parking


We walked through the old town....


Past the Winterline Museum, dedicated to WW2


And through the old town


... and eventually made our way to the starting point of a walking route through the olive groves, just around the corner from the Cathedral. The experience was wonderfully refreshing. On our way back to town, we passed by the Roman Theatre (currently under repair) and the Archaeological Museum, adding a touch of history to our scenic walk.


By the church


Along the path, view of Venafro through the trees


Picnic bench


Amidst the trees


View of the trees, and if you zoom in, you can spot the torre up in the hill


Interesting tree


Heading back to our parking


We headed out to Monteroduni, another perched village with a castle : Castello Pignatelli, which seemed only open on weekends. Nevertheless, we enjoyed strolling around the narrow lanes of the town centre, stumbling upon a beautiful church dedicated to St Michael the Archangel.


Castello Pignatelli


The beautiful church


Little piazza, off Corso Umberto


Porta, start of Corso Umberto


Beautiful little spot, right by our car parking


Our final stop was Macchia d'Isernia, to enjoy the views from another Big Bench, just outside town.


The bench


View from near the bench


In the evening we strolled around Isernia again (minus the crowds). The Isernia Cathedral (Cattedrale di San Pietro Apostolo) is very beautiful, and sits on the site of a former pagan temple dating back to 3BCE. There's an entrance beside the cathedral (easy to miss) with free access to the excavations beneath the church, which we also found very interesting. Isernia was once the Samnite town of Aesernia, and claims to be the first capital of Italy. Evidence of a Paleolithic village was also found here in Isernia, the remains of which are displayed in the Paleolithic museum.


Fontana Fraterna


The main square, Piazza Celestino, without crowds or market stalls


The pedestrian Corso Marcelli running through the old town


Arco San Pietro


The cathedral


Inside the cathedral


City view from the belvedere, by the cathedral


Valley view from belvedere, by the cathedral

We followed this driving route, as we made our way to Pescocostanzo.




Our first stop was Castel San Vincenzo, with beautiful views over the lake (from the parking area) and the valley (from the borgo).


View from parking area at Castel San Vincenzo


In the borgo


View of valley from borgo


View of valley from borgo


We drove the circular road (Viale Mainard) around the Lago Castel San Vincenzo, there are several points to pull off the road and walk down to the lake itself.


On the shores of Lago Castel San Vincenzo


The Abbey of San Vincenzo in Volturno was next. It's a historic, functional monastery housing a group of Benedictine nuns. The excavated ruins of the old monastery from the early Middle Ages, which preceded it, are located across.


Approaching the abbey, from the parking


View of abbey through the arches


The abbey


The excavations of the former abbey, nearby


We made brief stops at the Castello Pandone in Cerra al Volturno .....


Approaching Cerro al Volturno


Up to the castle


The door to the castle (privately owned)


Views from near the castle


Views from near the castle


.... and the Belvedere at Castel di Sangro for the panoramic views.


At the belvedere


.. and the view


We stretched our legs at the ski resort towns of Roccaraso and Rivisondoli, before reaching Pescocostanzo. Roccaraso was recently in the news when the town was overwhelmed by 10000+ daytrippers (triggering emergency procedures) due to social media posts by an influencer from Naples.


At Roccaraso, the main street lined with ski resorts and hotels


Near our parking at Roccaraso


At Rivisondoli


View of Rivisondoli rooftops


We finally reached Pescocostanzo and checked into our B&B. Pescocostanzo is popular for its well-preserved architecture and stunning natural surroundings, within the Maiella National Park. The town is also a popular winter ski destination and is amongst the most beautiful villages of Italy ("I Borghi più Belli d'Italia").


View from our window


Piazza Municipio, the main square


Smaller piazza


Smaller piazza


The streets of Pescocostanzo


The streets of Pescocostanzo


The most famous biscuit shop in town, that aroma wafting out of there just drew you in !


.... TO BE CONTINUED

Pescacostanzo is also home to two stunningly beautiful churches - Santa Maria del Colle Basilica and Santa Maria del Suffragio dei Morti church, right beside it.


The Basilica (with rose window), and the adjoining church (in white)


The Santa Maria del Colle Basilica is a stunning Baroque church, originally built in the Renaissance with some reconstructions since due to damage from earthquakes. It also has stunning art adorning some walls.


Inside the basilica


Inside the basilica


The beautiful ceiling


Some of the fascinating art


The Santa Maria del Suffragio dei Morti church, from the 17th century, overlooking the same staircase, and right beside it was also fascinating.


Inside the church


The ceiling


In the evening, we set out to tackle Mount Calvario, which towers over Pescocostanzo. The path begins from near the chairlift at Valle Fura. Although we didn't reach the summit marked by a cross, we hiked a considerable distance, taking in the vibrant colors of the wildflowers in bloom and breathtaking sweeping views in every direction.


And off we go...


View of Rivisondoli


Wildflower


Slogging on


Views


Views


Back in Pescocostanzo, we stumbled upon another gorgeous elevated viewpoint as we headed back to our B&B.


Views


Views

The maps are so useful to see where you are heading without having to check on Google Maps. There are lots of places here that I know absolutely nothing about. It must have taken you ages to research and plan this trip and not easy I should think - most Italians who don't live in the area would find it hard to place them and I'm impressed that you even knew which suitable hike to do in each place....complimenti!

Thank you just_tina, for your kind remarks. This trip did entail a more intense planning effort, but I received very helpful advice from our hosts e.g. some hikes/drive routes/ideas were just high level notes, which I could corroborate/flesh out with local input. The (very) few tourist offices on the ground were rarely open. This TR is an attempt to document as much of this as possible for wider benefit.

Today's driving route had a few interesting stops.




Our first halt was at the village of Barrea, on the shores of Lake Barrea, which was created after building of a dam across the River Sangro. We enjoyed beautiful views of the lake, and also explored the compact historic centre.


View of Barrea, cascading down the hillside


View of the lake


Walking to the historic centre of Barrea


The main piazza


The fountain


View of ravine from belvedere, behind the fountain


Strolling around the centre


The castle


We could have spent a lifetime just sitting on this bench !


There are places to pull off the SS83 running along the lake, we stopped at Spiaggia La Gravara.


The beach, by La Gravara


Our next stop was Civitella Alfedena. It's a small town, which is famous for its Lupo Appenninico Museum, dedicated to the history of the Apennine mountain wolf. Slightly further down the road is a fenced area of about four hectares, where we observed three wolves in a near-natural habitat.


The town


The beautiful garden of Albergo La Torre


The wolf museum


View of the reserve, if you zoom into the centre - between the trees, the white specks are resting wolves !


View of the town from belvedere


While walking back to our car, a deer had somehow entered the town and casually walked past us. Even the locals were in shock!


The deer casually walks by !


Our final stop was Opi, perched high on a ridge overlooking the valley. Opi is also one of the "Most Beautiful Villages of Italy" (I Borghi più Belli d'Italia).


View from the parking


The single "main" street of Opi ....


.... leading to the fountain and clocktower


By lanes of Opi


View from Opi


As we had a late check in at our hotel in Pescasseroli, we decided a walk in the woods would be a good use of time (and good for our lungs.) It was a very refreshing experience in the Bosca della Diffesa ("Bosca" means forest in Italian). The routes aren't clearly signposted, but we roughly walked the C1 to the Baita Padre Terzi and returned by the C3.


The starting point of the route


.. and off we go


Through the trees..


.. up the stairs


.. to the baita and back


Dense foliage


Wildflower


... TO BE CONTINUED

We finally reached Pescasseroli by early evening. Pescasseroli is the gateway to the Abruzzo National Park, at the heart of many itineraries focused on exploring the flora and fauna in summer and skiing in winter, with facilities to meet tourist needs around the year. There isn't much by way of attractions in the town itself, though we spent the evening in the "centre". While sitting on a bench, we were entertained by three very friendly Abruzzese sheepdogs in the square and a little girl giving us a demonstration of her football skills.


Park


Fountain


Church of Saints Peter and Paul


Streets of the centro


Ths is one of the 3 abruzzese sheepdogs lounging in the square. This gentle giant was craving gelato, drawing attention from all the customers of the ice cream shop/patisserie nearby.



Another memorable meal of this trip was here - so La Rotonda deserves a special mention. It’s a small, family run pizzeria, lots of vegetarian options on the menu, fresh pizzas coming out from a wood fired oven, with friendly service.

After ~2 weeks of sustaining a hectic pace and activity, today was our designated rest day. We woke up late, ate a leisurely breakfast and were headed directly to Scanno, our base for the next 2 nights.

My prepaid card loaded with euros had been playing up, and despite assurances from my bank that the issue had been fixed, I faced another (embarassing) transaction decline when checking out from our hotel. So the morning got off to a rough start. It amazes me that banks are the largest tech spenders, but can't seem to get basic things to work.




My host suggested we stop by Villetta Barrea, on our way to Scanno, to spot deer. Located on the north end of Lago di Barrea, Villetta Barrea is a town we had completely bypassed on our way in but was along our route anyway. We parked our car, went down to the banks of River Sangro and discovered a path through a gorgeous nature reserve. We spotted multiple deer grazing and drinking water from the river!


By the river


The reserve


Spotted a deer in the distance


... and walked up for a closer look


More deer walking by


The winding SR479 road to Scanno is one of the most beautiful roads we have ever driven in Italy, via the Godi mountain pass. It was also memorable due a close encounter of the furry kind, near the Visitor Centre Daini (where you can pet and feed deer) about 10 minutes away from Villetta Barrea. The road was blocked by the most delightful family of Appenine sheepdogs. We paid our toll in biscuits, and went on our way.


Rifugio Passo Godi


Views at the Godi pass


Views at the Godi pass


We checked into our B&B, to a very warm welcome with coffee and biscuits. Our host spoke absolutely no English, and our Italian is rather rudimentary - but she was one of the kindest and friendliest hosts we encountered during this trip.

After some rest, we decided to explore the town itself. Scanno is a photographer's dream and ranks amongst the most beautiful medieval towns we have visited in Italy. I'll let the photos speak for themselves.


The "classic " shot of Scanno, with cascading houses


Piazza Madonna del Lago, a small square with residential and historic buildings, and two staircases


Via Roma


Lane off via Roma, through the arch


Arch of the Nocella and the Cimmosa: typical architecture of Scanno with a stairway below an arch


Le Scale de Escher, famously photographed by MC Escher


Porta della Crosse, the last remaining old town gate


Narrow lane


Set of arches, famously photographed by Kurt Hielscher


Strada Silla from above


Strada Silla from below


Descending from Alla piazza Vecchio

and more steep steps .....


Sarraco Fountain


Despite it size, Scanno is also home to a number of fascinating churches.


Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vale

Fresco inside

Inside Santa Maria della Vale

Inside Santa Maria della Vale



Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie



Orario Santa messe



Chiesa di San Rocco



Chiesa St Eustachio

Inside Chiesa St Eustachio

The ceiling of Chiesa St Eustachio



Chiesa di Sant Antonio de Padua

Inside Chiesa di Sant Antonio de Padua (looking fornt)

Inside (looking back)

The ceiling


I also redicovered my fascination for old doors (readers may recall this from my June 2022 Trip Report - in Pezenas in Languedoc, France) in Scanno !


Door (home)


Door (home)


Door (Palazzo di Rienzo)

What a fabulous update.
The laneways in tiny villages, the sweeping vistas, the gelato eating dog.
So enjoying your trip.

What a great TR-thank you. I'm hoping to go to these less visited regions in the future and am saving your TR. I can see why having a sturdy vehicle was necessary.

Anuj I so agree with you about the beauty of Scanno. We approached from the opposite direction, from Sulmona, passing through Anversa degli Abruzzi. I was excited when I spotted a road sign warning of bears in the area, not something one expects to see in Italy. Your photos are a testament to the glories of that region, and every region you visited. I am amazed at how much ground you covered, much of its on two feet (or four feet, I should say). And the inclusion of the maps tracing your route in a valuable addition to the report.

I wonder why so many towns in the area begin with "Pesca-" or "Pesco-"

I'm eager to learn where you are considering for your next trip!!

Have been following this report and am amazed at the wonderful trip you've had! It's not really a trip I could do with all those steep streets and stairs and hiking, but fun to see it all. Gorgeous pictures! I also love taking pictures of interesting doors.

ANUJ, I am having a hard time deciphering how many nights you spent in each place (well, I see two nights Scanno). I think I get really caught up in the gorgeous photos and lose my focus.

I agree with the others that the little map PDFs with your routes are very helpful!

Thank you everyone for your comments.

Adelaidean, so many memories from this trip but those Abruzzese sheepdogs have a special place in my heart.

studenttobe, happy futue travels (and discoveries) !

ekscrunchy, we headed to Sulmona after Scanno via Anversa - same route as yours, opposite direction. Stay tuned the Sulmona instalment to follow soon. Looking back, am also surprised how much we covered, but when you're surrounded by such beauty - any awareness of time or sense of fatigue tends to disappear. On the "Pesca/Pesco" prefixes, I read somewhere that it may have to do with the word "peschio" which can be intepreted as "built on a rock", but I could be wrong. Am planning to return to one our favourite destinations - Scotland, as I need to travel to the UK this October.

SusanP, I didn't mean to deter anybody with the steep stairways etc. - in many ways, these places are no different from other classical Italian perched villages/hilltowns. And this would be enjoyable, even without the hiking.

Leely, correct, it was 2 nights in Scanno - am posting the second instalment soon.

The must-do activities while in Scanno are a walk around the lake itself, and a hike to the viewpoint where you can see the distinctive heart shape of the lake (Sentiero del Cuore).




Along the eastern shore, you need to be careful of passing cars as you walk directly on the road which circles the lake. The western shore has a pedestrian path running along the route most of the way. It took us about 75 minutes to circle the lake at a leisurely pace, with frequest stops.

Our starting point was the Chiesa di Santa Maria dell'Assunta, near the southern tip of the lake. It's a very charming little church that sits on the lake shore and straddles the road passing below it !


The church, cars passing below


By the church


Inside


Beautiful dome


And off we go .. some photos along the eastern shore of the lake.




Boating on the lake


Signboard


House along the lakeshore


Reflections


We finally reached the northern tip of the lake, and enjoyed this bench with a glorious view.




We then walked along the western shore, largely sticking to the pedestrian path.




Boats at the resort near La Spiagetta


Solitary boat in the waters


Waterwheel


Potable water fountain


Bench near Spiagetta di Scanno


Boats for hire near Spiagetta di Scanno


And back where we started, view of church between the boats


... TO BE CONTINUED

For the hike (The Path of the Heart or Sentiero del Cuore), there appear to be several approaches but we took the prescribed trail starting by the lake. Some sections are mildly challenging - either due to a steep gradient or boggy due to last night's rain. It took us about an hour to get to the top, but the rewarding views are well worth the effort. We took a gentler, easier path returning to the lake.


The start of the path


and the climb begins ....


Early views of lake through the trees


View of Scanno through the trees


Continuing on..


.... till we reached the hermitage


View of Scanno from hermitage


Closer to the viewpoint


Finally at the viewpoint, the iconic shot !


Later that evening, we also drove up the steep, narrrow and winding road to the hamlet of Frattura, for another sweeping view of the lake and valley.


View from the panoramic terrace at Frattura


View of Scanno as we returned


We enjoyed two meals in Scanno, so they deserve a mention.

The service at the very popular Trattoria Lo Sgabello may have been somewhat distracted, but the ravioli in saffron sauce was outstanding (even if the spaghetti in tomato sauce was average).


Trattoria Lo Sgabello


The standoout ravioli


Our dinner on the last night in Scanno, at Pizzeria Angelone, was fun. It's a tiny place, very easy to miss, with maybe all of 3 tables, one chef and one server, with zero English spoken. The pizzas had a thin, crisp crust - unusual for most pizzerias in Italy. The margherita and marinara, were both terrific, and served with a smile, fresh out of a wood-fired oven. The dinner ended with a complimentary round of shots of what was described to us as a local "herbal liquer" - very interesting, very potent - we slept very well that night.


Angelone


The thin-crust pies

After bidding a sad farewell to Scanno this morning, we set off for Sulmona on this driving route.




The magical road SR 479 which took us through the mountains yesterday, continued to cast its spell, this time by snaking its way along the beautiful Gole di Sagittario (Sagittarius Gorge). Our first stop was Villalago. This enchanting village, with a population of around 600, is part of “Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages” (I Borghi più belli d'Italia), given its architectural beauty and surrounding landscapes. The origins of this small village date back to the 11th century, when it was built by Benedictine monks.


Entering the village, a steep stairway (and a bear statue) welcome us !


And up we go, along via Roma


Along via Roma


Arco di Escher, as famously photographed by MC Escher


The torre


View of the SR437 curving along the Sagittarius Gorge, from near the torre


It was market day in Villalago, and the village was beginning to stir as vendors set up their stalls. We made a quick visit to the Lago Pio (close to where we had parked), before we left.


Market day


Lago Pio


View of Villalago, on our way out


Our next stop was the Hermitage of San Domenico, on the shores of an artificial lake created by the dam. The hermitage is built around a cave carved into the limestone rock, where the Benedictine monk Saint Dominic of Sora dwelled in 1000. It was an idyllic setting.


Walking across the bridge, after parking


The hermitage


Through the arches


Inside the hermitage


Inside the grotto, accessed by a spiral staircase inside the hermitage


Admiring the lake and hermitage...


.. from the picnic benches !


We made another brief stop at the dam (a short distance down the road from the hermitage) to enjoy one last view of the San Domenico lake.


The lake


The dam


We made a brief stop at Anversa degli Abruzzi, our jump-off point to a popular trailhead for the Gole di Sagittario.


Approaching Anversa degli Abruzzi


At Anversa


At the main square (Piazza Roma), by the church


At the main square, by the cafes


The trailhead for the Riserva Naturle Gole del Sagittario can be reached by taking the road heading east out of town, and watching out for the signs. We found parking reasonably close to the start. For lack of time (and energy), we covered only a part of the 8km "geological" route. The full route goes all the way to the hamlet of Castovalva, but we retraced after reaching the waterfall.


The WWF visitor centre


And off we go


Through the trees, and by the water


.. deep into the canyon


.. with the rock walls towering over us


.. to finally reach the waterfall !


View of Anversa, from another walking trail close to our parking


This had been a very beautiful walk surrounded by nature, in absolute solitude. Refreshed from the experience, we finally left for Sulmona, our home for the next 2 nights.


... TO BE CONTINUED

We reached Sulmona in the afternoon, and checked into our apartment. Sulmona is undoubtedly the most beautiful city in Abruzzo, set in the Peligna valley with snowcapped mountains in the backdrop. It is also the starting point of the legendary Italian Trans-Siberian Railway. Sulmona is an absolute delight to stroll around, as the photos will testify.


Along the main pedestrian street, Corso Ovidio


Along Corso Ovidio, by Complesso della Santissima Annunziata


Arched lane off Corso Ovidio


Statue of Ovidio. Ovidio (Publius Ovidius Naso), also known as Ovid in English, was a famous Roman poet during the reign of Augustus and the most celebrated son of Sulmona


Fontana del Vecchio and Aqueduct medievale


Streetside Cafe


Rotonda di San Francesco


Corso Ovidio, towards the end and near Porta Napoli


Celestino V statue


Beautiful courtyard


Sulmona is also home to several stunning churches, some of which we visited (some of which were closed, unfortunately the Cathedral was closed every time we passed by).


Complesso della Santissima Annunziata

Inside Complesso della Santissima Annunziata

The ceiling, Complesso della Santissima Annunziata

Chapel of Cross (Complesso della Santissima Annunziata)

Chapel of Annunziata (Complesso della Santissima Annunziata)



View of Monastero di Santa Chiara through the aqueduct arcade



Chiesa della Madonna del Carmine



Chiesa di Santa Maria della Tomba at Piazza Plebiscito

Inside the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Tomba



Chiesa di San Filippo Neri at Piazza Garibaldi

Inside San Filipo Neri


Sulmona is famous as the birthplace of confetti - almond candy coated in sugar, not to be confused with tiny pieces of colored paper used in celebrations and weddings (which is called coriondali in Italian!). There are many vibrant shops selling confetti in Sulmona.


Storefront


Storefront

However, our visit to Pelino, the pioneer and largest producer of confetti in Sulmona was most interesting. Located about 10 minutes by foot outside the historic centre of Sulmona, Pelino has its historical factory, museum (open to visitors) and shop in a single location. We tasted some unique (delicious) variants of confetti (orange, mint, chocolate.. amongst the many flavours), and bought gifts to take back home for friends and family.


Outside Pelino


We began at the museum with the short film, explaining the history and process of confetti making in Sulmona and the multi-generational history of Pelino


Museum exhibits - the old equipment


Museum exhibits - photos of the family, and bust of the founder


View of factory, adjoining the museum through a window at the museum. An interesting combination of traditional equipment with modern automation!


At the store


Store display


As we headed back, we lingered around the vast Piazza Garibaldi, the main square of Sulmona.


A view of Piazza Garibaldi, behind the aqueduct


Views from the square, facing the mountains


Views from the square, facing the aquaduct and city


There a number of historic buildings in Sulmona. We found the Palazzo Tabassi (now a residential complex) rather interesting architecturally.


Outside the palazzo


The courtyard


Before returning to our apartment, we made another attempt to visit the cathedral (located beyond the Villa Communale Gardens), but it had closed again (sigh!).


Villa Communale


The cathedral

Today we embarked on this driving loop. The SS487 leading to Carmanico Terme is a scenic mountain road, but narrow, steep and winding with many sharp switchbacks. While returning to Sulmona from Carmanico, we opted for the SS5/SS17 (hence the loop) which was faster with less stressful driving. Along our return route, the Strada del Vino (or wine route) landscapes near Popoli were gorgeous, but we didn’t make any real stops.




Our first stop was Pacentro, a well preserved medieval city, also one of "The most beautiful villages of Italy" (I Borghi più belli d'Italia). Pacentro is topped by the Caldora Castle (closed at the time), with three of its for towers still standing. The charm of the little lanes was accentuated by beautiful floral displays.


The main square


The most beautiful bathroom/toilet in all of Abruzzo !


The old town


Floral displays


Floral displays


The castle


Leaving Pacentro


The curvy mountain road then led us to the San Leonardo pass, where we stopped briefly.


Iconic view of Pacentro from the mountain road, as we left


At the pass


At the pass


At the pass


We made a short stop at the quaint Roccacaramanico, a former ghost village, that is slowly reviving due to tourism.


Strolling around Roccacaramanico


Strolling around Roccacaramanico


Yes - thats a fox ! My wife was happily walking alongside it, mistaking it for a cat.


Through the trees


View of the valley


Tower


Through the Arches


The fox even came to bid us goodbye, near our parking !


View of Roccacaramanico, from the road


Our final stop was Caramanico Terme. Caramanico is a spa town, with a small historic centre (borgo) and pleasant to walk about. This was our jumping off point for Valle dell'Orfento.


Stairs, I believe those were the words of a poem


Along the main street in Caramanico


Streets of Caramanico


Little lane in Caramanico


The main square


The terme di Caramanico, which is currently closed (perhaps undergoing an ownership change?)


Viewpoint


The borgo/old town


The Valle dell'Orfento is one of the most beautiful places in the Majella National Park. As the only canyon in the Majella that is crossed by a perennial river, it provides a perfect habitat for flora and fauna to thrive. We attempted (part of) the trail of La Scallele which cross the river multiple times through wooden bridges, in a fairytale setting. There are different approaches to the trail, we found the access from the road leaving Caramanico (marked on Google Maps) most convenient, with (limited) parking nearby. The trailhead sign reads Ponte del Vallone, as it is part of a longer circular loop.


Near the trailhead, by the parking


The signage at the trailhead


Descending into the canyon via steep steps


The first bridge and waterfall


By the first waterfall


The second bridge


Along the gorge


View from the second bridge


The thrid bridge


.. and finally the falls appear before us !


A closer look at the falls, this is the point at which we turned back


This La Scalelle trail in Valle dell'Orfento had been one of the most rewarding treks of this trip. We returrned to Sulmona to enjoy our last night there (and final night in beautiful Abruzzo).