Gardyloo

Unless there are two St Abbs, the one I'm familiar with is in Berwickshire, on the North Sea coast not far from Berwick-on-Tweed (which is in England, barely.)

I'm a bit lost on your current route planning, but if it includes the Northumberland and/or Berwickshire coasts, I'd also mention a favorite route of mine from the coast inland. Look on a (good) map for the village of Etal, in Northumberland not too far from the Scottish border town of Coldstream. Etal is a tiny village with a tiny ruined castle, but its pub, the Black Bull, is of great character; it's the northernmost thatched pub in England.

From Etal you can hug the Tweed down to Kelso and on into the main Border towns, or if you wanted to aim for East Lothian and Edinburgh, the tiny "B" roads like the B6355 that cross the Lammermuir Hills (as in <i>Lucia di</i are drop-dead lovely. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_Vrc5EDiTo

As for Kirkcudbright, the town is small but quite picturesque and with a good harbo(u)r. The townsfolk have been creative with paint; I don't know if any are still there, but I remember a few houses painted in pastels but also some with primary colo(u)rs, but a couple painted shiny black. VERY striking. You could easily spend a day and a half or so toodling around the area - see the Grey Mare's Tail, or visit one of the several really old and traditional distilleries (lowland malt v. Highland malt) in the area. The only time I walked to the Grey Mare's Tail it was raining sideways (note you're on the "weather" side of the island) and not too fine a day, so I'm no expert.

Frankly I'd look at trending north from Kirkcudbright toward Ayrshire and Burns country. (If you didn't know, the "Grey Mare's Tail" refers to Tam O'Shanter's horse, Meg, who loses her tail to the witches as she runs to escape them over the Brig o'Doon. You can see the witch holding the horse's tail at the bow of the Cutty Sark in Greenwich - http://gardyloo.us/cutty%20sark%202ab.jpg )

I always think a big helping of Robert Burns is the best antidote to a diet of stately homes and smashed castles; sadly I won't be lifting a glass on Burns Night next week (25th of January) nor supping on haggis and clapshot, but I'll be there mentally. Ayrshire is lovely - very bucolic countryside; not much scenic drama (some, but not tons) but history lurking around every turn. Buy a CD of Jean Redpath singing Burns' songs and stick it in the car's CD player as you drive through Alloway. Maybe stop at the Brig o' Doon pub and look for dancing warlocks. If you see them, stop drinking. https://goo.gl/maps/EXfpcqkfoCU2

janisj

For clarification -- I lumped St Abbs Head in to the Borders -- it is south of North Berwick and north of Berwick on Tweed. Easy access from Kelso, Duns, Coldstream and other parts of the Borders.

indy_dad

Ok, slight change of plans -- thanks for staying with me on this.

We have 3 nights in Derby (with friends) and then 7 in Yorkshire. We decided to book a week in a self-catering house outside of Hovingham (with friends). That leaves us just 4 days/nights prior to our departure.

Given that, I think we will just work our way up Northumberland and the Borders while saving D&G and the rest of the west coast for another time. (We will be back!).

Gardyloo--I have saved your suggested route (and noted the Black Bull Pub in Etal).

https://goo.gl/maps/nMz3k6FHH9q

I think we'd like to visit Durham and Beamish -- that probably a bit much for one day, so perhaps a night in that area? Suggestions?

I'll check with the family on whether they want to revisit Hadrian's Wall and Alnwick/Bamburgh/Holy Island. Other suggestions in that area or en route? Should we spend a night in that area?

Then we'd have 2 nights or so in the Borders before departing from EDI (to LHR). I think I have that part covered up-thread.

deladeb

helpful!

janisj

>>I think we'd like to visit Durham and Beamish -- that probably a bit much for one day, so perhaps a night in that area? Suggestions?<<

Actually I think you can manage both on the same day. Hovingham > Durham > Beamish > to say Alnwick is about 3 hours car time. So with an hour for Durham Cathedral and 3 or 4 hours at Beamish it is still a doable day -- long but not bad.

If you wanted to head all the way in to the Borders -- somewhere like Kelso (a neat market town w/ the Abbey ruins in the middle of town, the river and Floors Castle) it would still be doable - about 4 hours car time.

Now, if you wanted to tack on Hadrian's Wall, Lindesfarne, etc then yes, you will want to break somewhere maybe along the Wall.

indy_dad

@Gardyloo

The Black Bull Pub in Etal is closed until further notice. Hopefully they'll reopen by summer.

<i>The Black Bull

An enthusiastic and entrepreneurial tenant is sought for the Black Bull, famous for being the only thatched pub in Northumberland.

Following several decades of being let to a pub chain the Black Bull has now been returned to Ford & Etal Estates, giving the opportunity for renovation and refurbishment to create a venue which will be at the centre of the local community as well as attracting visitors from further afield. </i>

http://www.ford-and-etal.co.uk/eat/the-black-bull

Gardyloo

Well that sucks. But I'm sure it's very temporary; the place is very well known.

PalenQ

Oh well you can always try the famous Red Lion! (joke)

http://www.fodors.travel/community/e...a-red-lion.cfm

indy_dad

Ok, here's my latest plan for anyone still following along.

MON -- leave Yorkshire, drive to Durham. Visit Cathedral, Castle (maybe), Riverwalk (maybe) in the morning. Visit Beamish in the afternoon.

Drive to Northumberland coast. Stay in Bamburgh or similar.

TUE -- Bamburgh Castle, St. Aiden Church/Beach. May consider trip out to Farne Islands but that would take a bit of time. Smooth water only!.

Drive to St. Abbs Head for a coastal walk. Try to fit Etal before or after St. Abbs.

Drive to Borders (Kelso or Melrose). Stay 3 nights.

WED/THU -- Borders stuff TBD. Would like to walk to Scott's View and Eildon Hills while visiting the various "historic piles of stones".

FRI -- early flight EDI to LHR. 15:30 LHR to USA departure.

Reasonable? How's Bamburgh vs Seahouses vs Craster for the 1 night stay?

janisj

>>Reasonable? <<

Very reasonable. Allow a lot of time for Beamish -- it is enormous. And if it is a warm day (you should be so lucky ) take hats and water bottles.

>>How's Bamburgh vs Seahouses vs Craster for the 1 night stay?<<

I could stay in any of the three -- I'd choose mainly by searching for a property that appeals to you most.

sofarsogood

Beamish needs a full day so if you're late leaving Durham (or the weather's against you) you may decide to skip it. If so, alternative suggestions below.

Washington Old Hall
https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/washington-old-hall

Penshaw Monunment
https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/penshaw-monument

Woodhorn Colliery Museum
http://www.experiencewoodhorn.com/

Or you could spend time wandering the majestic Georgian streets of Newcastle (that's not irony btw).

Morgana

Seahouses is a much larger village (comparatively) than Craster and Bamburgh and has a decent range of little shops, fish and chips etc.
I'm not a huge fan to be honest - we go there for our fish supper but prefer to stay elsewhere. It can get extremely busy at peak times. However, if you find accommodation that suits you in Seahouses then do go for it.
Bamburgh is well worth driving to even if you don't visit the castle. You can get magnificent views of the castle from the village or walking along the beach.
Craster is famous for its kippers and you can often smell them smoking in the village! Parking is very restricted in the village itself unless you have accommodation booked there. But there's a large car park on the outskirts.
The Jolly Fisherman does a good lunch (crab sandwiches, fish soup etc).
http://www.thejollyfishermancraster.co.uk/
There's also a very good walk from Craster to Dunstanburgh Castle (ruins). Got caught there once in a thunderstorm, very atmospheric!
http://www.walkingbritain.co.uk/walk-1199-description
Might be good to plan some indoor activities although hopefully you'll strike it lucky with the weather in July. If you go to Alnwick there's an excellent second hand book shop in the old railway building. It's huge, has a model railway going around high up, and also has a very good café - a good way to spend a couple of hours on a rainy day.
http://www.barterbooks.co.uk/
There's parking too and we've never not got a space there.
Alnwick Castle draws the Harry Potter crowds. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Alnwick Garden (two different attractions). We've also enjoyed lunch at the Tree House restaurant - maybe not fabulous food, but pretty good and a wonderful setting. You'd need to book - very popular.
https://alnwickgarden.com/visit-the-...the-treehouse/
Cragside (National Trust) would also be good for a bad weather day although the gardens are great and there's a big driving loop around the Estate which is ideal for stopping and exploring/picnicking.
https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/cragside
Cragside was the first house in the world to be lit by HYDRO electricity.

indy_dad

Janis -- thanks for the confirmation. I am proceeding with that plan for accommodations.

Sofarsogood & Morganna -- thanks so much for additional info. I have a few back-up plans already but it's good to have some more.

Early in my UK ex-pat assignment (2011) we did a quick trip to York and then on up to Alnwick so we have done some of the items mentioned (Alnwick Castle/Gardens, walk to Dunstanburgh Castle, bookstore (I think), etc.). Cragside is on the list as well -- thanks!

For some reason, I am rather keen on strolling around Durham so Beamish might have to fall out of the plans. [Again, thanks for the suggestions.] I'll do some more research. Is Beamish similar at all to Bliss Hill at Ironbridge? (been there, for reference)

Morganna -- I'll have some more questions about our Yorkshire Moors stay but let me do a little more research first. I'll make a separate post for that.

Morgana

That's fine, I'll do my best to help. I live in the Dales but can see the hills of the Moors in the distance from my house (if it isn't raining!!).
There are several Yorkshire locals who post on here, so between us we should be able to assist.

janisj

Beamish is like Blists Hill but is much larger and isn't just a 'town'. But it is similar enough that you could bypass it if you need to.

Play it by ear -- if you end up spending a lot of time in Durham, skip it, if you get out of Durham sooner - then go to Beamish.

carolyn

Scott's View was my sister's favorite stop on our trip to Scotland. Sort of "Scotland in a Nutshell," she said.

PalenQ

Had to look that up!

http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/scotts-view

janisj

>>Had to look that up!<<

That seems odd since Melrose and Drybugh are such favorites of yours. You pass right by when going from one to the other.

PalenQ

I do not claim to be an expert on the area -I did a day trip from Berwick-on-Tweed and saw Melrose and those two other abbeys -for others typically on a brief sojourn I will recommend that area.Is there something wrong with that?

How about being more positive than critical for a change?

Berwick is a really neat town few Americans visit it seems -yet it has a unique look - lots of fortifications and an ordinary regional town -which means nice.