Two Weeks in Croatia

Old Mar 6th, 2017, 12:10 PM
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Two Weeks in Croatia

We are two couples on our mid (closing in on upper) 60's, planning our annual fall two-week vacation to Europe. Time frame will be the first two weeks of October, and we are in the middle of researching the itinerary ... the route we will travel, hotels, activities, etc. I am looking for some recommendations on interesting things to see and do, places to stay, etc.

One very early, and eminently flexible idea is to arrive and spend a few days in Zagreb, then rent a car and head east and then south for two or three more bases. Potential areas to sleep in would be Dubrovnik (very likely) Hvar, Zadar, and Split, which would likely be our point of departure. Either three or four bases total, with no stay being less than 3 nights. I realize this route does not include Istria, which I would like to see, but with just two weeks, don't want to push it. We do not want a crazy-fast pace - one or two attractions per day is our limit - museums, churches, castles, gardens, historical sites, natural wonders, etc. Relaxation, enjoying the local atmosphere, having a leisurely lunch in a nice outdoor restaurant ... these are as important to us as rushing to the next medieval cathedral.

We usually prefer small, traditional, family-run hotels or B&B-type establishments, though we sometimes do stay in larger hotels. We strive to average about 200 Euro per night. Though we will have a car when not in a large city, we shy away from staying in farmhouses or other country-side locations. We want to be based in a town, where we can walk to local restaurants for dinner - we all enjoy our wine, so would prefer to park the car at night.

This will be about the 30th trip we've taken with our friends, including about 10 work-related excursions where many other business associates were present, and around 20 trips with just the four of us together. Last year, we went to Portugal, with a few days in Galicia, Spain, and had a wonderful time. We are in good health, and though not interested in very strenuous hikes, always plan on dong a lot of walking. We could not possibly have better travel companions - we meet for breakfast every morning, travel together throughout the day doing whatever activities we have planned, and generally return to our hotel by around 5 PM. The wives then rest up, read, and otherwise take it easy while my buddy and I walk to a local watering hole, have a few cold beers, and return to pick up our wives for dinner around 7:30 or 8 PM. We usually turn-in by 10:30 or 11 PM, then meet for breakfast at 9 AM the next day, and start all over again. So, the four of us spend practically every waking moment together for two solid weeks, laughing and enjoying each other's company the entire time, and have never had a cross word - pretty special. We have other friends that we love, but I wouldn't go away for a weekend with most of them.

Any input from Croatia-savvy Fodorites greatly appreciated.
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 01:30 PM
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The Dalmatian Coast starts to shut down for the season in October, as the weather turns colder and more rainy. So I suggest you start in Dubrovnik and head north and out of Zagreb at the end instead of the other way around.

On my first trip to Croatia, I visited in early October, and the weather turned from warm and sunny overnight to cold and rainy while I was there. I was lucky to have great weather in Dubrovnik, not so much in Korcula and Split. But of course, the weather varies from year to year, so who knows? You're playing the odds with weather. But it should matter less if you get rain in Zagreb than you would in say Dubrovnik.

Still, I kind of wished I had gone at the end of September instead of early October, though I don't think going in October is a mistake at all.

You can pick up the car in Dubrovnik as you leave (or drop it when you arrive) - you won't want a car there unless you plan to do day trips. Otherwise, you'll either need to park the car in a lot or stay a bit away from the old town of Dubrovnik - and I really recommend staying in or just outside the old town, which is touristy during the day but much calmer at night and beautiful. I stayed right outside the Pile Gate (no steps) and found that very convenient - easy to walk into town.

Have a drink at the Buza Bar if it is still open (seasonally) while you are in Dubrovnik! Lovely place to view the sunset.

If you haven't already, try to plan a stop at the amazing Plitvice Lakes National Park a few hours of Zagreb.

You can view my two trip reports for my Croatia trips by clicking on my name - lots of photos too.
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 01:47 PM
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Thanks Andrew, very helpful information about switching our route from North-South to the reverse. We normally take this annual trip in the last two weeks of September, and would have preferred to do that again, but some pesky work issues got in the way this time.

Yes, seeing Plitvice Lakes is already a definite somewhere on our schedule, we're started scanning guidebooks, the internet, etc.

And I'll check out you trip reports.
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 01:57 PM
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I love early October in Dalmatia. The only bad thing is, the locals are all exhausfed by the season at that point... please don't take it personally if they don't speak. It's because they no longer can.

200 euros is a very nice budget. Is that for both couples? There are a ton of apartments in Dubrovnik and Hvar... in Split hotels are more common. If you want to go to Plitivice you might consider skipping Zadar or just visiting for a day. Spend two nights at Plitvice, so you can go to the park when the weather is best. It really is not the same if the sun is not shining.

it is a great time of year to visit.
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 03:26 PM
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Thanks rialtogrl - the 200 Euro budget is per couple/per night. Realize that this will probably get us more in Croatia than Italy or France. If we can find what we like for less, we'll go for it.

We probably won't do apartments, at this point in our lives, we want to be pampered, have someone else make us breakfast, etc.

We're not sure about Zadar, it was just one of the places we are looking at. Definitely will stay in Dubrovnik, probably in Zagreb, the one or two other places we stay are still up in the air ... Hvar, Zadar, Korcula, Brac are all getting consideration.
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 03:44 PM
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I think you are wise to skip Istria this trip – as you say, you can’t see it all.

Although I understand the idea of staying in any one place for at least 3 nights, on this trip, it could “force” you to skip the Plitvice Lakes National Park, which is, IMO, he single most un-missable of Croatia's many splendors. Not only are the lakes connected by travertine waterfall formations, each lake has unique microbiota, and as a result, the lakes are different colors. A two-night stay would suit what you say of your travel styles; a three night stay is, IMO, one night too many.

When you speak of heading east from Zagreb, are you thinking of Varazdin?
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 04:04 PM
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BTW, I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that Korcula would be essentially shuttered by October.
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 04:06 PM
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I probably wouldn't want two nights at Plitvice, unless I had to arrive late the first day and leave early the third. There's almost nothing to do at night in the area - no restaurants (except the hotel restaurants, and a pizza joint at the place that rents skip equipment as I recall; the pizza is good though). You can drive a ways to get to restaurants, though.

I think most people can get the gist of Plitvice in 5-6 hours. It's best if you plan to get into the park first thing when it opens - 7AM in season, not sure about October - before the tour groups arrive mid-morning. The park probably won't be mobbed in October but will still be busy. If you arrive mid-day the first day and you are staying at one of the park hotels (overpriced but convenient), they will stamp your ticket the next day so you can re-enter the park again on the same entrance ticket without paying again. So you might get a few hours the first afternoon and then the next morning.

Having two nights would give you more flexibility in case of rain one day, however. It might be nice to have some wiggle room in your agenda, if you can, instead of committing to a fixed schedule, so you might adjust in case of rain. I'd rather be in a town like Zadar or Split in the rain than at Plitvice. You shouldn't have trouble finding lodging last minute in October if you need to change things up.

Some people love Zadar. I didn't - can't really explain why. I wouldn't have wanted three nights there, but if you talk to someone who loves Zadar, they'll think you'd be nuts so spend less. One night was enough for me, but I'm glad I visited. Unfortunately, I didn't see Hitchcock's famous sunset - just a bit clouded over...
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 04:08 PM
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Korcula was not "shuttered" in mid-October 2009, but it was pretty empty. There were a few tour groups during the day. Restaurants were open at night but certainly weren't busy.
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 06:03 PM
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Andrew that is what I meant... to go to Plitvice for 2 nights but arrive the late afternoon on the first day. Not spend two days there, unless one is really into hiking.

But it might be better to start in Zagreb and go to Plitvice first. The inn I stay at there DOES close after the first weekend in October. The season will still be going in Dalmatia until at least mid October. But.. phillyboy if you want to be staying in a town, then Plitvice is probably not the stop for you.
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Old Mar 7th, 2017, 05:17 AM
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Thanks for all of your replies.

kja - Looks like my dyslexia is acting up, should have said we'd be heading south and west from Zagreb, not east. Not planning on Varazdin.

Concerning Plitvice, we were thinking that, with 4 nights in Zagreb, we'd have 3 full days there, and would keep an eye on the weather and shoot for the nicest day to take a day trip there. At about 2 hours from the city, we would either jump on an organized tour, or hire a private guide to take us there for the day. We have often taken day trips 2 hours away from our hotel, and it has been fine.

Our most likely three bases at this point look to be Zagreb for 4 nights, Dubrovnik for 5 and Split for 5. Still debating the question of whether to start in the north or south.

Further opinions are still welcome.
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Old Mar 7th, 2017, 06:40 AM
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Easy for me to say, as someone who has already seen Split and Dubrovnik, but in October I would consider visiting Istria instead. It's truffle season, and it's probably fairly lively in the hill towns. I've visited four times, and although Dubrovnik is undeniably beautiful, and Diocletian's Palace in Split is fascinating, I have always found the natural beauty of Croatia to be the draw. I have not yet been to Istria, I just know that is where I would head in October. If that would bore you silly, ignore of course.
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Old Mar 7th, 2017, 06:50 AM
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I agree with most of what has been said in previous comments. My piece of advice is also to start your trip in Dubrovnik and finish it in Zagreb. The weather is stil nice and balmy but it can get mood occasionaly and maybe you'll have to change your plans.

I wouldn't suggest renting a car in Dubrovnik, as it is pretty hectic with parking place and everything is reachable with city bus anyway so I advise you to rent a car for the next leg of your trip. In Dubrovnik you should see City walls and go on a cablecar ride to the top of the Srđ mountain (or opt for bus instead). Buza bar (if still open) is also great for a sunset drinks.

If you prefer a scenic drive over highway choose driving to Split through Makarska riviera and witness beautiful coastline and small villages along the way.

In Split I recommend seeing Diocletian palace, enjoying coffee on Riva (city's main promenade) and a walk through a park Marjan. Zadar is famous for it's Sea Organs - you got to hear those sounds.

Definetly go see Plitvice lakes (the tour can be done in 1 day) and Krka waterfalls. While in Dubrovnik, you can maybe do a one day bus trip to Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina).

Ask locals about opened restaurants as few can already close for the season. Early October will definetly be more pleasant regarding high season's crowds in Dubrovnik.
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Old Mar 7th, 2017, 11:22 AM
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Yorkshire - As much as we'd like t get to Istria, it just isn't in the cards this time. I am hoping to get back to Northeastern Italy in a future trip, and would like to make it to Trieste, and then down the peninsula to Istria.

PatriciaSM - thanks for your comments. What are your thoughts about keeping a car in Split?
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Old Mar 7th, 2017, 11:34 AM
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I might want a car in Split if you plan to do self-guided day trips beyond what you can do by ferry or by excursion. For example, you can take a bus or excursion to Krka National Park from Split (or stop on the way down if driving from Zadar). I guess I'd decide first what I want to do from Split - day trips to where? Trogir probably. Some of these places are easy to get to by bus or ferry.

If you're planning to kick back in Split and do little, just wander around and relax and do some exploring here and there, I don't see much point in keeping the car. You can take a catamaran or bus to Dubrovnik. (In October, you might have fewer excursion and ferry options.) But having the car from Zagreb to Split would sure make stops like Plitvice a lot easier.
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Old Mar 7th, 2017, 11:38 AM
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Create your dream list of excursions, as that will determine the car need. That could also help decide the north or south first conundrum--for example, if some are more reliant on better weather.
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Old Mar 7th, 2017, 05:10 PM
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Yes, you can visit the Plitvice Lakes from Zagreb if you don’t mind a long daytrip. I strongly recommend a single loop of about 6 or 7 hours (including time for the boat that connects the lower and upper lakes), and by all means, start at the lowest part of the park so you are facing the falls as you proceed. As I understand it, the majority of tour groups arrive in the park between 9 and 10 a.m., so you might want to time your arrival to either get there substantially earlier (many tour groups move FAST and so can catch up with those who left shortly before them) or to get there just after 10 a.m. And if possible, consider timing your trip so you aren’t driving in the dark in the area around the Plitvice Lakes.

Having a car in Zagreb could complicate your time there -- you might want to just rent one for the day of this trip, and make sure you know where you will park it if you do have it while in Zagreb.

As for dividing your time, I think 5 nights extremely generous for Dubrovnik, as the city itself takes barely more than a day to explore. 4 nights would make sense to me for Zagreb, if you are using it for the Plitvice Lakes, but then I really enjoyed Zagreb, and not everyone does. Depending on your interests, you might want to add time to Split. I say that not because it’s my favorite city in Croatia (although it is), but because I think it will give you the best array of day trips – Trogir, Hvar, Zadar, Sibenik, the Krka National Park, etc. Just something to consider. (And FWIW, I visited all of those locations without a car -- and found it easy to do so.)

I think the idea of traveling northward – starting in Dubrovnik and ending in Zagreb – is very well worth considering.

Personally, I wouldn’t rent a car for your time in Dubrovnik or Split. The scenery between Dubrovnik and Split is breathtaking, but the road is one that will NOT allow the driver to safely enjoy that scenery. The bus is easy, comfortable, and convenient. You don’t need a car for most day-trip options from either Dubrovnik or Split, and could easily rent a car for just a day if it proved necessary. And having a car in either Dubrovnik or Split could greatly complicate your travel, as parking is not readily available in many parts of either city.

Hope that helps!
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Old Mar 8th, 2017, 08:00 AM
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kja - Thank you again for this additional information. Very helpful.

Now you have me wondering - if we were to cut back our time in Dubrovnik, would adding a stop in Istria be crazy? In this order ...

Split - 4 days
Dubrovnik - 3 days - these first two bases could be reversed in order.
Rovinj or Pula - 3 days
Zagreb - 4 days

Fly into Split, leave from Zagreb. Realizing that a move from Dubrovnik to wherever in Istria would consume an entire day, perhaps go immediately to Dubrovnik after landing, and making Split the second stop would save a couple of hours when moving north to Istria.
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Old Mar 8th, 2017, 08:34 AM
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May I ask what's the appeal of Zagreb? Why do you want to spend four days there? I'm not saying you shouldn't - maybe Zagreb is the kind of city you would enjoy, but I think a lot of tourists would not want nearly that much time in Zagreb. It's not particularly charming city. I think one night there would be plenty for many people.

I'm not sure what you like to do when you travel, besides go leisurely exploring, restaurants and wine, etc. Zagreb definitely has restaurants, and it is the capital city, but I can think of other places near your route that would be more appealing to me, at least for that long of a stay. I know you prefer to stay multiple nights in each place.

If you're thinking fun and relaxation, I'd say an island for a few nights might be more fun than Zagreb, though in October they do kind of slow down. You should get your "real city" fix in Split. I'd probably recommend Ljubljana, Slovenia instead of Zagreb, but then you are kind of stretching your travel time, and you'd have the car-returned-in-a-different-country issue...

In Istria, I really loved little Rovinj - but it is tiny. It's a great place to come back to at night after day tripping around. I daytripped to Pula and didn't really care for it that much, not a place I would particularly wish to spend a few nights.
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Old Mar 8th, 2017, 08:49 AM
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I think Andrew nailed it--chop a couple days off Zagreb for Istria and that dilemma is solved, of course you still have the dilemma of how/when to fit in Plitvice. I like Zagreb and consider it underrated, but I would not spend 4 nights there when cute little hill towns (or an island) are beckoning.
Too bad you have to drive south and then north--are you stuck with flying into Split?
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