Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast and Rome; the 20th Anniversary Trip
Apr 8th, 2018, 03:16 PM
#22
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Ebvacationer- Glad you are enjoying the report! You asked: My husband and I are thinking about planning a trip to visit the same areas you visited. But, we are in our late 60’s/early 70’s and would much prefer to have a private English-speaking driver.
Do you think this would even be feasible?
I would assume so. Everything is feasible for a price, right? I've never had a private driver in Italy for anything other than airport trips so I have no personal knowledge of it there, but I'm sure if you asked it as a separate post here on the Europe board, you'd get some answers. Depending on where you plan on going, it might make sense to hire separate drivers for different regions if you were going to say, Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast, rather than one driver for the whole trip. You might also be able to arrange for drivers for day trips through your hotels in each location.
Hudsonguz- Thanks so much! More to come...
Do you think this would even be feasible?
I would assume so. Everything is feasible for a price, right? I've never had a private driver in Italy for anything other than airport trips so I have no personal knowledge of it there, but I'm sure if you asked it as a separate post here on the Europe board, you'd get some answers. Depending on where you plan on going, it might make sense to hire separate drivers for different regions if you were going to say, Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast, rather than one driver for the whole trip. You might also be able to arrange for drivers for day trips through your hotels in each location.
Hudsonguz- Thanks so much! More to come...
Apr 9th, 2018, 07:18 AM
#23
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Hotel Belvedere on Italy’s Amalfi Coast
We arrived at the lovely, isolated, Hotel Belvedere in the tiny village of Conca dei Marini, hanging on the cliff between Positano and Amalfi, after driving from Pompeii. The hotel is very Italian, with an old-fashioned ambiance and the faded impression of once glory days. We got the feeling that there were a lot of regular guests here, those who come every year for a week to sit at the pool all day and take full board in the hotel dining room every night. We spent four nights here, trying to achieve a bit of our own “R&R” in the middle of our trip.
After our check-in, we went to the bar for a drink where I finally had a proper Negroni and David had a nicely made Martini (sometimes a challenge in Italy).
We had booked a Superior room and they offered us a Junior Suite for 20 euro more a night on arrival. After looking at both rooms, and contemplating the views from each, we took the Junior Suite because it offered substantially more space and a larger bathroom. The drawback (for us, and everyone is different) was the view.
We had really wanted a room with a view of the Amalfi coastline (see top photo in the link at the bottom of this post) but most of the rooms, including both offered to us, had only a view out to sea, straight ahead. If we looked down, we could see the pool. As it turns out, there are only a few rooms with views toward the coastline and those are the rooms on the corner of the hotel. The others all have sea views but are hampered by walls on the sides of the balconies, which also give more privacy.
As Americans I think we expect some things which were missing at this price point; bathrobes in the room, Kleenex in the bathroom, a kettle and/or coffee maker in the room. While I’ve had these things in hotels all over the world (and not at just US chain hotels), they were not included here. We’ve also had these things in less expensive Italian hotels so I’m not sure why they weren’t here. It’s more of an observation than a criticism. The room did have a mini fridge where we kept some water and snacks which was useful.
Breakfast was plentiful with lots of different bread and pastries, yogurt, fruit, juice, coffee and hard-boiled eggs. The view from the restaurant’s terrace, which appeared to be only used for breakfast, never dinner, unfortunately, was stunning.
The saltwater pool was excellent. We spent most of one entire day there and had lunch poolside. Warning, there are people who claim chairs all day but do not sit in them except for a few hours. Get there early and stake out your spot!
There is access to the sea by way of about 200 steps. We climbed down one day and went in. It was nice, but choppy from all the boat traffic. There are lounge chairs available down there but no food or drink service.
The hotel’s restaurant is very pricey, even for the Amalfi Coast, which has high prices everywhere. It has very few low-cost options, and a 40 euro pre-fixe menu every night. We were there four nights and ended up eating in the hotel on two of the nights just because we could not be bothered to drive somewhere else for dinner. There’s not much within walking distance unless you count the 300 steps down (and then back up) to the little marina below (we did this one night, more on this later). The hotel’s dining room service is formal with white-jacketed waiters and a maitre d’, yet in the middle of a 100-degree heat wave, there was no air conditioning and it was buzzing with mosquitos. One nice thing, if you buy a bottle of wine and don’t finish it, they will hold it for you for the next night or let you take it back to your room.
All in all, we liked our time at the Hotel Belvedere, though the next time we visit the Amalfi Coast, it won’t be in high summer (too hot, too busy, too expensive), and I’d like to be in a hotel or a vacation rental with more local dining options. Be forewarned, hotel rates in the summer high season on the Amalfi Coast are astronomical and can be about 40% higher than other times of the year. Our room was 290 euro a night, and while it was a splurge for us for our anniversary, that price was still mid-range as far as most hotels in the area for the summer.
For photos of the hotel, pool, and views, go here: Hotel Belvedere on Italy's Amalfi Coast
We arrived at the lovely, isolated, Hotel Belvedere in the tiny village of Conca dei Marini, hanging on the cliff between Positano and Amalfi, after driving from Pompeii. The hotel is very Italian, with an old-fashioned ambiance and the faded impression of once glory days. We got the feeling that there were a lot of regular guests here, those who come every year for a week to sit at the pool all day and take full board in the hotel dining room every night. We spent four nights here, trying to achieve a bit of our own “R&R” in the middle of our trip.
After our check-in, we went to the bar for a drink where I finally had a proper Negroni and David had a nicely made Martini (sometimes a challenge in Italy).
We had booked a Superior room and they offered us a Junior Suite for 20 euro more a night on arrival. After looking at both rooms, and contemplating the views from each, we took the Junior Suite because it offered substantially more space and a larger bathroom. The drawback (for us, and everyone is different) was the view.
We had really wanted a room with a view of the Amalfi coastline (see top photo in the link at the bottom of this post) but most of the rooms, including both offered to us, had only a view out to sea, straight ahead. If we looked down, we could see the pool. As it turns out, there are only a few rooms with views toward the coastline and those are the rooms on the corner of the hotel. The others all have sea views but are hampered by walls on the sides of the balconies, which also give more privacy.
As Americans I think we expect some things which were missing at this price point; bathrobes in the room, Kleenex in the bathroom, a kettle and/or coffee maker in the room. While I’ve had these things in hotels all over the world (and not at just US chain hotels), they were not included here. We’ve also had these things in less expensive Italian hotels so I’m not sure why they weren’t here. It’s more of an observation than a criticism. The room did have a mini fridge where we kept some water and snacks which was useful.
Breakfast was plentiful with lots of different bread and pastries, yogurt, fruit, juice, coffee and hard-boiled eggs. The view from the restaurant’s terrace, which appeared to be only used for breakfast, never dinner, unfortunately, was stunning.
The saltwater pool was excellent. We spent most of one entire day there and had lunch poolside. Warning, there are people who claim chairs all day but do not sit in them except for a few hours. Get there early and stake out your spot!
There is access to the sea by way of about 200 steps. We climbed down one day and went in. It was nice, but choppy from all the boat traffic. There are lounge chairs available down there but no food or drink service.
The hotel’s restaurant is very pricey, even for the Amalfi Coast, which has high prices everywhere. It has very few low-cost options, and a 40 euro pre-fixe menu every night. We were there four nights and ended up eating in the hotel on two of the nights just because we could not be bothered to drive somewhere else for dinner. There’s not much within walking distance unless you count the 300 steps down (and then back up) to the little marina below (we did this one night, more on this later). The hotel’s dining room service is formal with white-jacketed waiters and a maitre d’, yet in the middle of a 100-degree heat wave, there was no air conditioning and it was buzzing with mosquitos. One nice thing, if you buy a bottle of wine and don’t finish it, they will hold it for you for the next night or let you take it back to your room.
All in all, we liked our time at the Hotel Belvedere, though the next time we visit the Amalfi Coast, it won’t be in high summer (too hot, too busy, too expensive), and I’d like to be in a hotel or a vacation rental with more local dining options. Be forewarned, hotel rates in the summer high season on the Amalfi Coast are astronomical and can be about 40% higher than other times of the year. Our room was 290 euro a night, and while it was a splurge for us for our anniversary, that price was still mid-range as far as most hotels in the area for the summer.
For photos of the hotel, pool, and views, go here: Hotel Belvedere on Italy's Amalfi Coast
Apr 10th, 2018, 03:13 AM
#24
Sigh....just lovely. Cetara looks fabulous.
(Slightly off topic, I made the chick pea dish, the simple one with garlic and rosemary, it so improves the flavour, an extra bit of healthy side to my lunch the last 2 days.)
(Slightly off topic, I made the chick pea dish, the simple one with garlic and rosemary, it so improves the flavour, an extra bit of healthy side to my lunch the last 2 days.)
Apr 10th, 2018, 11:14 AM
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Yay! So glad you enjoyed it! It's one of my favorites too. So easy, yet so delicious.
Apr 12th, 2018, 05:20 AM
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A visit to Cetara and Driving on the Amalfi Coast
When could you convince me that driving 40 minutes each way along steep cliffed coastal roads just for lunch is a good idea? When that lunch is in Cetara, a tiny fishing village with several highly recommended restaurants packed into the winding main street. Cetara has a population of under 2400 people, but even in the height of summer with the little beach filled with sunbathers and swimmers, it reminded me of the charm of Positano from 25 years ago.
We were only there a few hours, but now I want to return to stay in the village overnight and be there when the tourists go home. I want to eat anchovies and pasta and freshly grilled fish. I want to sit by the sea and watch the boats haul in their catch.
Cetara is best known for its fishing industry, much of which focuses on anchovies and colatura di alici, the liquid gold which is a by-product of salting and curing those anchovies. Colatura is closely related to the ancient Roman fermented fish product called garum and is similar in many ways to south-east Asian fish sauce, though colatura is a bit milder. I wanted to taste this umami bomb at the source.
But first, we had to get there.
Tell people you’re going to the Amalfi Coast and they will say “Oh my God, just don’t drive there!” I’m here to tell you otherwise. We’ve done it several times and lived to tell the tale. My husband even enjoyed the driving part while I navigated.
If you are a confident driver, don’t let anyone dissuade you from driving the Amalfi Coast road. Yes, it’s narrow. Yes, it’s twisty and turn-y. And yes, there will be giant buses coming at you around blind curves, but don’t panic.
On the plus side, you have the flexibility of going where you want when you want, and you can wander at will. You can drive down the coast for lunch stopping in other towns along the way like Amalfi, Minori, and Maiori. Sure, there are local buses that ply the coastal route, but in the summer they are very crowded and are liable to pass you by, full to the brim. There are ferries between some of the towns, but you are limited to their schedules. There’s also the sticker shock of a private driver from Naples to the Amalfi Coast, which can cost as much as a week’s car rental round trip.
My advice? Rent the smallest car you are comfortable driving and spend the extra for an automatic if you are not 100% comfortable with a standard (stick) transmission. It will be one less thing to worry about. Take your time, plan your route, and be prepared for traffic. Also, do learn the parking rules or you could end up with a ticket like we did in Positano. It was a comedy of errors trying to figure out how to pay it (more on that later). All that said, having a rental car can be liberating and we didn’t find it nearly as scary as some people say it is to drive the Amalfi Coast.
We arrived in Cetara in time for lunch and parked at the port parking lot (I would not recommend attempting to drive through the village). I had a list of three or four recommended restaurants but ultimately, we ended up at Ristorante al Convento (Piazza San Francesco, 16), a short walk up the main street away from the crowd at the small beach.
The restaurant is in part of a former convent (hence the name) and the inside has whitewashed walls with soaring arches and frescoes. Outside, there’s a lovely shaded terrace which is where we sat. We started with a mixed seafood plate and of course had to try the spaghetti with colatura, garlic, and olive oil. We also had a fried fish and calamari plate and eggplant parmesan, both very enjoyable.
The mixed seafood antipasti were my favorite; marinated octopus, marinated white anchovies, salt-cured anchovy on toast, some fried treats, and cured swordfish.
The spaghetti with colatura was a study in simple deliciousness; perfectly cooked pasta, garlic, olive oil, fresh parsley and the slightly salty, slightly savory, taste of the colatura.
Away from the water, everything was a bit quieter and this was the view of the Piazza S. Francesco from our table.
We enjoyed walking through the town on the way back to the car. It was blessedly uncrowded, unlike the streets in Positano and Amalfi which we found filled wall to wall with tourists, many dropped off for just a few hours from gigantic cruise ships.
Go here for photos of Cetara: A visit to Cetara and Driving on the Amalfi Coast
When could you convince me that driving 40 minutes each way along steep cliffed coastal roads just for lunch is a good idea? When that lunch is in Cetara, a tiny fishing village with several highly recommended restaurants packed into the winding main street. Cetara has a population of under 2400 people, but even in the height of summer with the little beach filled with sunbathers and swimmers, it reminded me of the charm of Positano from 25 years ago.
We were only there a few hours, but now I want to return to stay in the village overnight and be there when the tourists go home. I want to eat anchovies and pasta and freshly grilled fish. I want to sit by the sea and watch the boats haul in their catch.
Cetara is best known for its fishing industry, much of which focuses on anchovies and colatura di alici, the liquid gold which is a by-product of salting and curing those anchovies. Colatura is closely related to the ancient Roman fermented fish product called garum and is similar in many ways to south-east Asian fish sauce, though colatura is a bit milder. I wanted to taste this umami bomb at the source.
But first, we had to get there.
Tell people you’re going to the Amalfi Coast and they will say “Oh my God, just don’t drive there!” I’m here to tell you otherwise. We’ve done it several times and lived to tell the tale. My husband even enjoyed the driving part while I navigated.
If you are a confident driver, don’t let anyone dissuade you from driving the Amalfi Coast road. Yes, it’s narrow. Yes, it’s twisty and turn-y. And yes, there will be giant buses coming at you around blind curves, but don’t panic.
On the plus side, you have the flexibility of going where you want when you want, and you can wander at will. You can drive down the coast for lunch stopping in other towns along the way like Amalfi, Minori, and Maiori. Sure, there are local buses that ply the coastal route, but in the summer they are very crowded and are liable to pass you by, full to the brim. There are ferries between some of the towns, but you are limited to their schedules. There’s also the sticker shock of a private driver from Naples to the Amalfi Coast, which can cost as much as a week’s car rental round trip.
My advice? Rent the smallest car you are comfortable driving and spend the extra for an automatic if you are not 100% comfortable with a standard (stick) transmission. It will be one less thing to worry about. Take your time, plan your route, and be prepared for traffic. Also, do learn the parking rules or you could end up with a ticket like we did in Positano. It was a comedy of errors trying to figure out how to pay it (more on that later). All that said, having a rental car can be liberating and we didn’t find it nearly as scary as some people say it is to drive the Amalfi Coast.
We arrived in Cetara in time for lunch and parked at the port parking lot (I would not recommend attempting to drive through the village). I had a list of three or four recommended restaurants but ultimately, we ended up at Ristorante al Convento (Piazza San Francesco, 16), a short walk up the main street away from the crowd at the small beach.
The restaurant is in part of a former convent (hence the name) and the inside has whitewashed walls with soaring arches and frescoes. Outside, there’s a lovely shaded terrace which is where we sat. We started with a mixed seafood plate and of course had to try the spaghetti with colatura, garlic, and olive oil. We also had a fried fish and calamari plate and eggplant parmesan, both very enjoyable.
The mixed seafood antipasti were my favorite; marinated octopus, marinated white anchovies, salt-cured anchovy on toast, some fried treats, and cured swordfish.
The spaghetti with colatura was a study in simple deliciousness; perfectly cooked pasta, garlic, olive oil, fresh parsley and the slightly salty, slightly savory, taste of the colatura.
Away from the water, everything was a bit quieter and this was the view of the Piazza S. Francesco from our table.
We enjoyed walking through the town on the way back to the car. It was blessedly uncrowded, unlike the streets in Positano and Amalfi which we found filled wall to wall with tourists, many dropped off for just a few hours from gigantic cruise ships.
Go here for photos of Cetara: A visit to Cetara and Driving on the Amalfi Coast
Apr 17th, 2018, 11:47 AM
#29
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Karen- Thank you! Here's a bit more...
Amalfi Coast Dining and Sightseeing
While staying in Conca dei Marini we had limited choice for where to eat. We ended up in the hotel's dining room for two of our four dinners, mostly because we couldn’t be bothered to walk or drive anywhere (the drawback of staying somewhere so isolated). It was overpriced and mediocre. However, when we did go out, we some lovely dinners, as well as a nice lunch in Positano and one in Cetera.
One of Conca dei Marini’s charms is its piccolo fishing village which can only be reached by boat or by walking down (and then back up) about 300 stairs. One night we did just that, choosing one of the three restaurants down there at random.
This was the view of the cove from our table, overlooking the beach, walkway and tiny wooden pier where boats dropped tourists coming in just for dinner from the surrounding towns.
We ended up eating at Ristorante Risorgimento (Marina di Conca,42 sulla spiaggia di Conca dei Marini, 84010 Conca dei Marini, Italy). Still crazy hot at about 8 pm, we had a chilled bottle of local white wine, a Falanghina, a varietal grown in the area. Of course, we had to order seafood; a mixed antipasto of marinated white anchovies and octopus, linguine clams, and (not shown) a pasta with ragu and some grilled vegetables. The food was enjoyable but the best part was watching the boats come and go filled with tourists and the local teenagers hanging out in their little dinghies, just goofing off.
On another night we were picked up at our hotel and driven up the hillside Le Bonta del Capo(Via Primo Maggio, 14, 84010 Conca dei Marini, Italy). If you make a reservation and ask for it, the restaurant will send a car for you no charge. The food was very good, but the view was spectacular.
Our meal was as enjoyable as the view; mixed seafood antipasti (yes, again), wood-fired pizza, ravioli, and steamed clams. One thing and I will spare you the video, but there was some cheesy “entertainment” (someone with an electronic keyboard and someone singing not much better than karaoke) during our meal. But even that could not spoil things.
On one of our days on the Amalfi coast, we re-visited the town of Amalfi, mostly to find an ATM and a pharmacy where we could buy some mosquito repellant. We parked in an underground parking lot off the road between Amalfi and Atrani. While in Amalfi, we walked through the lovely Romanesque and Byzantine cathedral.
If you go, make sure your shoulders are covered so you don’t have to be like the girl in the photo (photo in link below) and wrap a big sheet of butcher paper around yourself.
On another day, we drove to Positano in the morning and parked on one of the roads high above the town and walked down into the center. We failed to notice that parking was only for residents and ended up with a parking ticket. This ticket led to us being told several different conflicting ways to fix the problem by people at our hotel. In the end, we drove back to Positano the next day, found a helpful policewoman who led us to the tiny station in the center of town where we paid our fine in cash.
Our tip: park in the paid lot at the bottom of town. Look for “Gennaro Di Bartolomeo – Central Parking”. Don’t risk parking on the road.
The day we were in Positano it was almost 100 degrees by 10 am and after about an hour of walking around, I was so soaked in sweat I ended up buying a sundress and changing my clothes in the public restroom near the beach.
Twenty years ago, we stayed in Positano on our honeymoon and have visited several times since, always eating at Buca di Bacco, so we had to eat there this time as well. It’s located right on the water, in the hotel of the same name, above their La Pergola bar. There’s a fantastic view from just about anywhere you sit. We started with cold drinks in La Pergola, walked around a bit more, and then later had lunch on the covered patio in the restaurant upstairs. As always, the food was tasty and beautifully prepared.
For photos of the food and sightseeing and more, go here: Amalfi Coast Dining and Sightseeing
Amalfi Coast Dining and Sightseeing
While staying in Conca dei Marini we had limited choice for where to eat. We ended up in the hotel's dining room for two of our four dinners, mostly because we couldn’t be bothered to walk or drive anywhere (the drawback of staying somewhere so isolated). It was overpriced and mediocre. However, when we did go out, we some lovely dinners, as well as a nice lunch in Positano and one in Cetera.
One of Conca dei Marini’s charms is its piccolo fishing village which can only be reached by boat or by walking down (and then back up) about 300 stairs. One night we did just that, choosing one of the three restaurants down there at random.
This was the view of the cove from our table, overlooking the beach, walkway and tiny wooden pier where boats dropped tourists coming in just for dinner from the surrounding towns.
We ended up eating at Ristorante Risorgimento (Marina di Conca,42 sulla spiaggia di Conca dei Marini, 84010 Conca dei Marini, Italy). Still crazy hot at about 8 pm, we had a chilled bottle of local white wine, a Falanghina, a varietal grown in the area. Of course, we had to order seafood; a mixed antipasto of marinated white anchovies and octopus, linguine clams, and (not shown) a pasta with ragu and some grilled vegetables. The food was enjoyable but the best part was watching the boats come and go filled with tourists and the local teenagers hanging out in their little dinghies, just goofing off.
On another night we were picked up at our hotel and driven up the hillside Le Bonta del Capo(Via Primo Maggio, 14, 84010 Conca dei Marini, Italy). If you make a reservation and ask for it, the restaurant will send a car for you no charge. The food was very good, but the view was spectacular.
Our meal was as enjoyable as the view; mixed seafood antipasti (yes, again), wood-fired pizza, ravioli, and steamed clams. One thing and I will spare you the video, but there was some cheesy “entertainment” (someone with an electronic keyboard and someone singing not much better than karaoke) during our meal. But even that could not spoil things.
On one of our days on the Amalfi coast, we re-visited the town of Amalfi, mostly to find an ATM and a pharmacy where we could buy some mosquito repellant. We parked in an underground parking lot off the road between Amalfi and Atrani. While in Amalfi, we walked through the lovely Romanesque and Byzantine cathedral.
If you go, make sure your shoulders are covered so you don’t have to be like the girl in the photo (photo in link below) and wrap a big sheet of butcher paper around yourself.
On another day, we drove to Positano in the morning and parked on one of the roads high above the town and walked down into the center. We failed to notice that parking was only for residents and ended up with a parking ticket. This ticket led to us being told several different conflicting ways to fix the problem by people at our hotel. In the end, we drove back to Positano the next day, found a helpful policewoman who led us to the tiny station in the center of town where we paid our fine in cash.
Our tip: park in the paid lot at the bottom of town. Look for “Gennaro Di Bartolomeo – Central Parking”. Don’t risk parking on the road.
The day we were in Positano it was almost 100 degrees by 10 am and after about an hour of walking around, I was so soaked in sweat I ended up buying a sundress and changing my clothes in the public restroom near the beach.
Twenty years ago, we stayed in Positano on our honeymoon and have visited several times since, always eating at Buca di Bacco, so we had to eat there this time as well. It’s located right on the water, in the hotel of the same name, above their La Pergola bar. There’s a fantastic view from just about anywhere you sit. We started with cold drinks in La Pergola, walked around a bit more, and then later had lunch on the covered patio in the restaurant upstairs. As always, the food was tasty and beautifully prepared.
For photos of the food and sightseeing and more, go here: Amalfi Coast Dining and Sightseeing
Apr 21st, 2018, 07:01 AM
#32
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tripandjoy-I've pretty much posted everything I've got from this trip on the Amalfi Coast. Do make sure you check out the links to my blog posts. There's more there in the way of photos that the text here just cannot convey. "A picture is worth a 1000 words".
Apr 22nd, 2018, 03:18 PM
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Rome Restaurants; Dining and Drinking in the City
Rome abounds with literally thousands of restaurants. Over the last decade, I’ve done my best to eat in as many as possible, returning occasionally to favorites and always trying new ones.
One of our favorite places in Rome is Armando al Pantheon. We’ve been coming here since 2008 and a few years ago they renovated the inside of the restaurant, adding blessed air conditioning, and updating the dining room’s decor. There are now cushioned banquets where there were once only wood chairs. The menu is pretty much the same traditional well made Roman food we’ve come to love. The restaurant is mere steps from my favorite building in Rome, the Pantheon, and is very small so it tends to book up. Fortunately, you can make reservations online through their website.
The daughter of the owner took our order and remembered us even though we haven’t been in for several years. One of my favorite dishes is the simple pasta alla verde with lemon, arugula, and Parmesan cheese. In addition to the pasta, we started with anchovies on toast with butter, and then had the lamb chops, homemade pork sausages, and sautéed chicory with tiny chili peppers and garlic. Our meal was 95 euro including items above, a bottle of water, 2 glasses prosecco, 1/2 bottle wine and 1 dessert. That’s on the high end of what we’ve been spending on meals too.
Overheard at dinner last night; “grappa is like the ouzo of Italy, but it doesn’t taste like licorice.”
Me: ((eyeroll)) Really??
One day we found ourselves late for lunch and close to getting hangry. We ended up at La Fiametta which, while near the Piazza Navona, is far enough away to not be too touristy or chaotic. I’ve been here before (see this post for more food in Rome) and they have some of the best eggplant Parmesan I’ve ever had. On this visit, we had a mixed vegetable antipasti, a pizza, and an octopus salad, one of that day’s specials. Everything was great and they have a lovely outside seating area.
While in Rome we rented a tiny apartment on Via del Governo Vecchio, literally around the corner from our favorite gelateria, Frigidarium. At night, we could see the line stretching around the corner from our window. Over the years we’ve become friends with Fabrizio, Frigidarium’s owner, and always go back for a visit when we can. If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend you give them a try.
Farther down Via Del Governo Vecchio we discovered Mimi e Coco, a bar/restaurant with well made (and generously sized) cocktails. We stopped there for a Negroni on our first hot night in Rome and it became our go-to place for a drink as well as a light dinner one night. The staff is incredibly friendly as well. The first time we were there, after the Negronis, they plied us with complimentary limoncello, a mini negroni, and then Amaro Lucano, once we mentioned we liked it.
On another day we had lunch at Enoteca Corsi a restaurant near Largo Argentina with about 300 different bottles of wine lining the walls. They are open only for lunch, Monday through Saturday. I had the lasagna bianchi with peas and mushrooms, the spinach, and a lovely chilled rose. David had an amatriciana pasta, a salad and a glass of sauvignon blanc. It was affordable and of course, the wine selection was impressive. I loved sitting among all the different bottles.
Overheard at dinner:
Him- “You know they call arugula “rocket” here?”
Her- “That’s right, that’s what Jamie Oliver in England calls it on his TV show!
Me- (sotto vocce to David) “No, they call it “rucola” here”
Not every meal is perfect, even at an old classic like Ristorante Piperno. Maybe my expectations were too high. Maybe we ordered the wrong things, but we just weren’t impressed with the minuscule antipasti vegetable plate for 10 euro or the parsimonious pour on the glass of wine. The gnocchi and the veal saltimbocca were well made, but the value was not there for the price.
While wandering through Trastevere one day, about to completely melt in the 100-degree heat, we came across Trattoria da Augusto (no website, Vicolo De’ Renzi, 15), a place I’d eaten at in 2009. We stopped again, this time for a quick pasta lunch. This place is old school Trastevere. The food is super simple but solid, the service is gruff at best, and they total your check on the paper covering the table at the end of the meal. They also have one of the few remaining squat toilets in Rome. Word to the wise; don’t order the house red, it’s ice cold. Go for the white wine.
We discovered Ditirambo on this last trip and enjoyed our dinner there so much that we dined there again on our last night. The menu is a modern take on classic Roman food and is reasonably priced. We had the mixed seafood antipasti platter both times we ate there and it included items which were raw, cured and cooked. There was a lovely pasta with eggplant and ricotta salata on it, two of my favorite things. Some of the main dishes we tried were roasted pork and braised beef. One night dessert was a deconstructed cannoli.
97 degrees in the shade.
10 euro for 2 beers.
That view on the last day in Rome?
Priceless.
On our last day in Rome, we climbed up the stairs of the Vittorio Emanuale Monument. This is the giant white building across from Piazza Venezia, and next to the Forum. It’s the building that looks like a big white wedding cake and has also be likened to a giant typewriter. Technically, the building is the Altare de Patria (the altar of the fatherland). From the mid-level, at the top of the stairs, you get a bird’s eye view of most of Rome, including the Forum and the Colosseum. In addition, at the time there was a nice cafe there (it may currently be closed) where we were able to have a beer and a snack. We could have spent 14 euro for the two of us to go to the very top of the monument (via an elevator) or sit and enjoy two beers and this view for 10 euro. I think we know who got the better deal.
For photos of all these meals, check out my post at Rome Restaurants; Dining and Drinking in the City
Up next, sightseeing in Rome.
Rome abounds with literally thousands of restaurants. Over the last decade, I’ve done my best to eat in as many as possible, returning occasionally to favorites and always trying new ones.
One of our favorite places in Rome is Armando al Pantheon. We’ve been coming here since 2008 and a few years ago they renovated the inside of the restaurant, adding blessed air conditioning, and updating the dining room’s decor. There are now cushioned banquets where there were once only wood chairs. The menu is pretty much the same traditional well made Roman food we’ve come to love. The restaurant is mere steps from my favorite building in Rome, the Pantheon, and is very small so it tends to book up. Fortunately, you can make reservations online through their website.
The daughter of the owner took our order and remembered us even though we haven’t been in for several years. One of my favorite dishes is the simple pasta alla verde with lemon, arugula, and Parmesan cheese. In addition to the pasta, we started with anchovies on toast with butter, and then had the lamb chops, homemade pork sausages, and sautéed chicory with tiny chili peppers and garlic. Our meal was 95 euro including items above, a bottle of water, 2 glasses prosecco, 1/2 bottle wine and 1 dessert. That’s on the high end of what we’ve been spending on meals too.
Overheard at dinner last night; “grappa is like the ouzo of Italy, but it doesn’t taste like licorice.”
Me: ((eyeroll)) Really??
One day we found ourselves late for lunch and close to getting hangry. We ended up at La Fiametta which, while near the Piazza Navona, is far enough away to not be too touristy or chaotic. I’ve been here before (see this post for more food in Rome) and they have some of the best eggplant Parmesan I’ve ever had. On this visit, we had a mixed vegetable antipasti, a pizza, and an octopus salad, one of that day’s specials. Everything was great and they have a lovely outside seating area.
While in Rome we rented a tiny apartment on Via del Governo Vecchio, literally around the corner from our favorite gelateria, Frigidarium. At night, we could see the line stretching around the corner from our window. Over the years we’ve become friends with Fabrizio, Frigidarium’s owner, and always go back for a visit when we can. If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend you give them a try.
Farther down Via Del Governo Vecchio we discovered Mimi e Coco, a bar/restaurant with well made (and generously sized) cocktails. We stopped there for a Negroni on our first hot night in Rome and it became our go-to place for a drink as well as a light dinner one night. The staff is incredibly friendly as well. The first time we were there, after the Negronis, they plied us with complimentary limoncello, a mini negroni, and then Amaro Lucano, once we mentioned we liked it.
On another day we had lunch at Enoteca Corsi a restaurant near Largo Argentina with about 300 different bottles of wine lining the walls. They are open only for lunch, Monday through Saturday. I had the lasagna bianchi with peas and mushrooms, the spinach, and a lovely chilled rose. David had an amatriciana pasta, a salad and a glass of sauvignon blanc. It was affordable and of course, the wine selection was impressive. I loved sitting among all the different bottles.
Overheard at dinner:
Him- “You know they call arugula “rocket” here?”
Her- “That’s right, that’s what Jamie Oliver in England calls it on his TV show!
Me- (sotto vocce to David) “No, they call it “rucola” here”
Not every meal is perfect, even at an old classic like Ristorante Piperno. Maybe my expectations were too high. Maybe we ordered the wrong things, but we just weren’t impressed with the minuscule antipasti vegetable plate for 10 euro or the parsimonious pour on the glass of wine. The gnocchi and the veal saltimbocca were well made, but the value was not there for the price.
While wandering through Trastevere one day, about to completely melt in the 100-degree heat, we came across Trattoria da Augusto (no website, Vicolo De’ Renzi, 15), a place I’d eaten at in 2009. We stopped again, this time for a quick pasta lunch. This place is old school Trastevere. The food is super simple but solid, the service is gruff at best, and they total your check on the paper covering the table at the end of the meal. They also have one of the few remaining squat toilets in Rome. Word to the wise; don’t order the house red, it’s ice cold. Go for the white wine.
We discovered Ditirambo on this last trip and enjoyed our dinner there so much that we dined there again on our last night. The menu is a modern take on classic Roman food and is reasonably priced. We had the mixed seafood antipasti platter both times we ate there and it included items which were raw, cured and cooked. There was a lovely pasta with eggplant and ricotta salata on it, two of my favorite things. Some of the main dishes we tried were roasted pork and braised beef. One night dessert was a deconstructed cannoli.
97 degrees in the shade.
10 euro for 2 beers.
That view on the last day in Rome?
Priceless.
On our last day in Rome, we climbed up the stairs of the Vittorio Emanuale Monument. This is the giant white building across from Piazza Venezia, and next to the Forum. It’s the building that looks like a big white wedding cake and has also be likened to a giant typewriter. Technically, the building is the Altare de Patria (the altar of the fatherland). From the mid-level, at the top of the stairs, you get a bird’s eye view of most of Rome, including the Forum and the Colosseum. In addition, at the time there was a nice cafe there (it may currently be closed) where we were able to have a beer and a snack. We could have spent 14 euro for the two of us to go to the very top of the monument (via an elevator) or sit and enjoy two beers and this view for 10 euro. I think we know who got the better deal.
For photos of all these meals, check out my post at Rome Restaurants; Dining and Drinking in the City
Up next, sightseeing in Rome.
Apr 22nd, 2018, 03:59 PM
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Nope, we were there in July during a record heat wave! That said, friends are in Italy this week and it's in the mid-80's right now.
Apr 24th, 2018, 03:25 PM
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Hotel Belvedere on Italy’s Amalfi Coast
We arrived at the lovely, isolated, Hotel Belvedere in the tiny village of Conca dei Marini, hanging on the cliff between Positano and Amalfi, after driving from Pompeii. The hotel is very Italian, with an old-fashioned ambiance and the faded impression of once glory days. We got the feeling that there were a lot of regular guests here, those who come every year for a week to sit at the pool all day and take full board in the hotel dining room every night. We spent four nights here, trying to achieve a bit of our own “R&R” in the middle of our trip.
After our check-in, we went to the bar for a drink where I finally had a proper Negroni and David had a nicely made Martini (sometimes a challenge in Italy).
We had booked a Superior room and they offered us a Junior Suite for 20 euro more a night on arrival. After looking at both rooms, and contemplating the views from each, we took the Junior Suite because it offered substantially more space and a larger bathroom. The drawback (for us, and everyone is different) was the view.
We had really wanted a room with a view of the Amalfi coastline (see top photo in the link at the bottom of this post) but most of the rooms, including both offered to us, had only a view out to sea, straight ahead. If we looked down, we could see the pool. As it turns out, there are only a few rooms with views toward the coastline and those are the rooms on the corner of the hotel. The others all have sea views but are hampered by walls on the sides of the balconies, which also give more privacy.
As Americans I think we expect some things which were missing at this price point; bathrobes in the room, Kleenex in the bathroom, a kettle and/or coffee maker in the room. While I’ve had these things in hotels all over the world (and not at just US chain hotels), they were not included here. We’ve also had these things in less expensive Italian hotels so I’m not sure why they weren’t here. It’s more of an observation than a criticism. The room did have a mini fridge where we kept some water and snacks which was useful.
Breakfast was plentiful with lots of different bread and pastries, yogurt, fruit, juice, coffee and hard-boiled eggs. The view from the restaurant’s terrace, which appeared to be only used for breakfast, never dinner, unfortunately, was stunning.
The saltwater pool was excellent. We spent most of one entire day there and had lunch poolside. Warning, there are people who claim chairs all day but do not sit in them except for a few hours. Get there early and stake out your spot!
There is access to the sea by way of about 200 steps. We climbed down one day and went in. It was nice, but choppy from all the boat traffic. There are lounge chairs available down there but no food or drink service.
The hotel’s restaurant is very pricey, even for the Amalfi Coast, which has high prices everywhere. It has very few low-cost options, and a 40 euro pre-fixe menu every night. We were there four nights and ended up eating in the hotel on two of the nights just because we could not be bothered to drive somewhere else for dinner. There’s not much within walking distance unless you count the 300 steps down (and then back up) to the little marina below (we did this one night, more on this later). The hotel’s dining room service is formal with white-jacketed waiters and a maitre d’, yet in the middle of a 100-degree heat wave, there was no air conditioning and it was buzzing with mosquitos. One nice thing, if you buy a bottle of wine and don’t finish it, they will hold it for you for the next night or let you take it back to your room.
All in all, we liked our time at the Hotel Belvedere, though the next time we visit the Amalfi Coast, it won’t be in high summer (too hot, too busy, too expensive), and I’d like to be in a hotel or a vacation rental with more local dining options. Be forewarned, hotel rates in the summer high season on the Amalfi Coast are astronomical and can be about 40% higher than other times of the year. Our room was 290 euro a night, and while it was a splurge for us for our anniversary, that price was still mid-range as far as most hotels in the area for the summer.
For photos of the hotel, pool, and views, go here: Hotel Belvedere on Italy's Amalfi Coast
We arrived at the lovely, isolated, Hotel Belvedere in the tiny village of Conca dei Marini, hanging on the cliff between Positano and Amalfi, after driving from Pompeii. The hotel is very Italian, with an old-fashioned ambiance and the faded impression of once glory days. We got the feeling that there were a lot of regular guests here, those who come every year for a week to sit at the pool all day and take full board in the hotel dining room every night. We spent four nights here, trying to achieve a bit of our own “R&R” in the middle of our trip.
After our check-in, we went to the bar for a drink where I finally had a proper Negroni and David had a nicely made Martini (sometimes a challenge in Italy).
We had booked a Superior room and they offered us a Junior Suite for 20 euro more a night on arrival. After looking at both rooms, and contemplating the views from each, we took the Junior Suite because it offered substantially more space and a larger bathroom. The drawback (for us, and everyone is different) was the view.
We had really wanted a room with a view of the Amalfi coastline (see top photo in the link at the bottom of this post) but most of the rooms, including both offered to us, had only a view out to sea, straight ahead. If we looked down, we could see the pool. As it turns out, there are only a few rooms with views toward the coastline and those are the rooms on the corner of the hotel. The others all have sea views but are hampered by walls on the sides of the balconies, which also give more privacy.
As Americans I think we expect some things which were missing at this price point; bathrobes in the room, Kleenex in the bathroom, a kettle and/or coffee maker in the room. While I’ve had these things in hotels all over the world (and not at just US chain hotels), they were not included here. We’ve also had these things in less expensive Italian hotels so I’m not sure why they weren’t here. It’s more of an observation than a criticism. The room did have a mini fridge where we kept some water and snacks which was useful.
Breakfast was plentiful with lots of different bread and pastries, yogurt, fruit, juice, coffee and hard-boiled eggs. The view from the restaurant’s terrace, which appeared to be only used for breakfast, never dinner, unfortunately, was stunning.
The saltwater pool was excellent. We spent most of one entire day there and had lunch poolside. Warning, there are people who claim chairs all day but do not sit in them except for a few hours. Get there early and stake out your spot!
There is access to the sea by way of about 200 steps. We climbed down one day and went in. It was nice, but choppy from all the boat traffic. There are lounge chairs available down there but no food or drink service.
The hotel’s restaurant is very pricey, even for the Amalfi Coast, which has high prices everywhere. It has very few low-cost options, and a 40 euro pre-fixe menu every night. We were there four nights and ended up eating in the hotel on two of the nights just because we could not be bothered to drive somewhere else for dinner. There’s not much within walking distance unless you count the 300 steps down (and then back up) to the little marina below (we did this one night, more on this later). The hotel’s dining room service is formal with white-jacketed waiters and a maitre d’, yet in the middle of a 100-degree heat wave, there was no air conditioning and it was buzzing with mosquitos. One nice thing, if you buy a bottle of wine and don’t finish it, they will hold it for you for the next night or let you take it back to your room.
All in all, we liked our time at the Hotel Belvedere, though the next time we visit the Amalfi Coast, it won’t be in high summer (too hot, too busy, too expensive), and I’d like to be in a hotel or a vacation rental with more local dining options. Be forewarned, hotel rates in the summer high season on the Amalfi Coast are astronomical and can be about 40% higher than other times of the year. Our room was 290 euro a night, and while it was a splurge for us for our anniversary, that price was still mid-range as far as most hotels in the area for the summer.
For photos of the hotel, pool, and views, go here: Hotel Belvedere on Italy's Amalfi Coast
Apr 25th, 2018, 11:51 AM
#39
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When you were there, did you eat dinner in the hotel or did you go out?
Apr 28th, 2018, 07:58 AM
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We had dinner at the hotel. They have so many gorgeous bar area and nooks. We stayed 3 nights there after coming from Le Sirenuae in Positano.
if you are in the area and want a spa day, the spa was incredible!!!
if you are in the area and want a spa day, the spa was incredible!!!
