Kristina

A couple of years ago my husband and I spent 2 weeks in Italy celebrating our 20th wedding anniversary. We’d gone to Italy on our honeymoon and at that time had done the trifecta of Venice, Florence, and Rome, along with the Amalfi coast in a whirlwind 10 days. While we’ve been back to Italy many times since we wanted to recreate at least a part of our honeymoon for this trip. In the end, our itinerary was four days exploring Tuscany based in the hilltop town of Pienza, a night in Pompeii to visit both Herculaneum and Pompeii, four days on the Amalfi coast based in Conca di Marini, and ending with 5 days in our favorite city, Rome.

Who we are: late 40's couple living in Southern California. We've traveled extensively all over the world and Italy is one of our favorite places on the planet.
Accommodations: we stayed in hotels in Pienza, Pompeii and Conca dei Marini. In Rome, we stayed in a vacation rental apartment right in the center.
Transportation: we had a rental car which we picked up at FCO in Rome and took though Pienza, down to the Amalfi coast and then back to Rome where we dropped it in the city on arrival. We rented through AutoEurope with no problems. In Rome, we walked or took the bus everywhere. We had a car pick us up for an early morning return to the airport (arranged through our apartment owner).

I apologize for the delay in the trip report, but it's taken me this long to write it and get most of it onto my blog with photos. I'm almost done. Instead of just posting a link, I'll post the text content so it's searchable for those looking for info on these places and then at the end of each post, I'll link to the pages with photos.

Kristina

La Bandita Townhouse and Restaurant, Pienza Italy
The first stop of our 20th-anniversary trip was the tiny hilltop town of Pienza, in Tuscany. We arrived, jet-lagged and sweaty in the 100-degree heat, after getting directly off the plane in Rome and into a rental car at the airport. The drive to Pienza was easy enough and we even stopped at my favorite AutoGrill (it spans across the highway on the way north from Rome).

La Bandita Townhouse is a boutique hotel set in a refurbished 500-year-old nunnery. We enjoyed all four days we spent here and wished it could have been longer. Our large room had a mix of rustic stone walls and modern furnishings which overlooked the garden and had a huge bathroom.

We loved that the mini bar drinks were complimentary, that a carafe of water was placed in the room each night, and that they’ll do a load of laundry for free if you stay more than 3 nights. Their goal is not to “nickel and dime” their guests and it works. The toiletries are upgraded with nicely scented locally made soap and shampoo. There are plush robes in the bathroom and an espresso machine in the room. There’s free wifi and the A/C works great (important as we were there during a horrible heat wave).

Everyone who worked in the hotel was extremely friendly and helpful. They made sure we had dinner reservations each night and plans for each day and were ready with advice and recommendations whenever asked. Every evening before dinner is aperitif time in the hotel’s Living Room where guests gather and chat (we did this every night and it was lovely) and have complimentary drinks. There’s a big book collection there and a record player with a lot of vinyl records too.

Breakfast has a limited selection of made to order items (there’s no big buffet) but we found it perfect for our needs. Make sure you try the locally made yogurt.

We ate in the hotel’s restaurant for two of our four nights and it was excellent. This is clearly not just a “hotel restaurant” but a place where both locals and tourists staying in other hotels come for dinner. It’s small so reservations really are necessary. The food is modern Italian with wonderfully fresh and local products (burrata, truffles!) and excellent preparations. They have a nice selection of wines by the glass and an open kitchen.

There is no parking at the hotel, but we were able to always find free parking just outside the town walls about 2 blocks from the hotel (on Google Maps this is listed as “Via del Cassello Parking” on Viale di Circonvallazione, 25). As for the town itself, we adored it. It’s really a one street town, but we loved the quaintness of it and with a car, it was perfectly situated for sightseeing in the area. In the evenings, after all the day tourists have left, the nightly passeggiata (stroll around town) with the local inhabitants is quite fun.

While we staying in Pienza, we visited Mate winery, the towns of Montepulciano and Montalcino, Sienna, and a working farm called il Casale (where we had a great farm-to-table lunch). More to come on these places later.

For my photos of the hotel, go here: La Bandita Townhouse and Restaurant, Pienza Italy

Kristina

Exploring Pienza Italy; Restaurants and Sightseeing

The first four days of our trip were spent in Pienza which gave us plenty of time to explore the village, where many tourists visit on day trips, but at night the town is left to locals and the few tourists who choose to stay there.

Along the outside edge of town is a walkway and a wall, and from there, one can see a fantastic view of the countryside for miles. The town is filled with its share of restaurants, gelato shops, boutiques, and of course, small food shops like an amazing cheese store (see link at bottom for photo). In terms of things to see, there are several churches, including the main cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and the church of San Franciso which is from the 13th century and has some lovely original frescos. There’s also the historic Palazzo Piccolomini, built by a 15th-century pope. This is a large old palace and gardens and admission comes with an audio tour. Along with your ticket comes and someone to shepherd tourists from room to room on a schedule and point out the number to push on the audioguide. The person also, unfortunately, prevents people from taking photos inside so all I have to share is the view from the garden. But it’s worth the hour or so it takes to visit.

Restaurants in Pienza:

A few doors down from La Bandita is the small but well-known Latte di Luna restaurant. We had a late lunch of gnocchi and wine there on our first day and after that, they were closed for their summer vacation. According to the owners of La Bandita, several hotels and restaurants in Pienza still close for several weeks to a month in July or August for the traditional summer holiday, even though summer is now busier than ever in Pienza with outside tourists. Needless to say, those who do stay open, do very well with less competition.

One night, we ate at the town’s “fancy” hotel/restaurant called La Terraza del Chiostro. The food was decent, but it’s all about the view there, eating on a patio overlooking the entire valley. The view at sunset was stunning and the service was very good. As for the food, I felt like they were trying too hard. Friends have eaten there more recently and said there is a new chef who is very good.

On another night, in a little square off the main drag, we had dinner at Sperone Nudo where we had the most incredible hand-rolled pasta with truffles! I still dream of this pasta today and would go back just to eat it again. Here's a photo of the pasta:


Pasta with truffles. Heaven in a bowl.

For more photos of Pienza, go here: Exploring Pienza Italy; Restaurants and Sightseeing

Kristina

Exploring Tuscany; Máté Winery, Montalcino, and Montepulciano

During our four days in Pienza, we took several day trips in the car out to the surrounding towns. The nice people at La Bandita helped us set up several things including a private visit to Máté Winery and a visit to a working farm (coming up next).

Máté winery is near the town of Montalcino so it was easy to combine our visit there into an outing to both at the same time. Máté Winery grows Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes on their 15 acres. The winery is owned by Ferenc Máté, a respected writer, and his wife Candace who is a painter. Their wines are very well reviewed by the likes of Wine Spectator and other sites and magazines. The property is stunning and includes a 13th-century friary which the couple restored.

We enjoyed tasting a few of the wines they had available and walking around the gorgeous property. While the region is known for its Brunello wines, I found I enjoyed their Syrah the most.

After the winery, it was time to head off through the hills and into the town of Montalcino where we had lunch at a place called Caffe Alle Logge di Piazza. They offered nice fresh salads, several kinds of pasta, and a great wine selection with a view (from the inside, over the valley and from outside, of a small piazza).

From Montalcino, it’s about a 45-minute drive to the slightly larger town of Montepulciano which is on the other side of Pienza. There, we stopped on the outside of town to check out the beautiful church of St Biagio. We parked on the outside of town (the roads are narrow and steep) and walked into the center. The main square was gearing up for some sort of event or festival but we were able to check out the local church and walk around the winding streets a bit before heading back to Pienza.

For my photos of Mate winery, Montalcino, and Montalcino, please go here: Exploring Tuscany; Máté Winery, Montalcino, and Montepulciano

KarenWoo

Great report so far. I am looking forward to hearing about amalfi coast. It's on my bucket list.

Kristina

Thanks Karen. You may be the only one reading, but I appreciate it! Amalfi Coast coming soon.

Kristina

Exploring Tuscany; Podere Il Casale Organic Farm

Right outside Pienza is a working farm with a small restaurant called Podere Il Casale. This place puts all others claiming “farm-to-table” to shame and is what true “farm-to-table” is all about.

The farm raises goats and sheep for milk and makes their own cheese (several kinds). They raise bees for honey and grapes for wine. The olive oil comes from the olive trees on their property, and they recently discovered an area of their land which produces white truffles. They even harvest their own grains to grind wheat for pasta, pizza dough and to make whole grain salads.

There is a restaurant on the premises where you can sample all this bounty and even a small campground if you want to stay there. Everything grown on the farm is 100% organic.

We had the opportunity to visit Podere Il Casale farm during our time in Pienza. We arrived in time for the morning tour which was given by Ulisse, one of the farm’s owners. With him, we toured the sparkling clean cheese making facility, the cheese aging room, the sheep and goat pens, and the apiary where the bees are kept.

After the tour, we settled in for lunch at the restaurant’s patio, overlooking the rolling hills of the Tuscan countryside. On a distant hill, we could see Pienza, sitting there in all of its Renaissance glory.

Of course we had to try the cheese and honey sampler plate. We also had house-made mozzarella, along with tomatoes and herbs, grown right there on the farm. Since the pizza oven had been fired up for a class being held there, we had to order one of those too.

This was a fun and interesting visit and a great way to see exactly where our lunch came from. It’s worth the trip if you have the time and are staying in the area. The easiest way to get there is by car.

thursdaysd

Sounds lovely!

Do you know if you can get to Pienza by public transport?

Kristina

thursdaysd- we really loved Pienza. I know there are local buses that go to the town, but I don't think there's a train that goes there. It's much, much easier by car.

Kristina

I forgot to include the link to the post with photos of all the amazing food, animals and cheese at the farm in the above post: Exploring Tuscany; Podere Il Casale Organic Farm

Coming next, a day trip to Sienna...

Kristina

Siena; Osteria da Trombicche and Sightseeing

The sign said “No Pizza, No Cappuccino, Si Miale, Si Vino”. My translation; If you want pizza and cappuccino, you tourist, go away. If you want pork and wine, we’ve got it, come on in!

With a sign like that, how could we not go in? What we found was unexpected. There were a tiny counter and bar, and maybe 5 or 6 tables. There’s a refrigerated case at the front filled with various platters of food and charcuterie and no kitchen, only (gasp!) a microwave. The cool sign notwithstanding, given the lack of kitchen, I might have been dubious had it not been for an emphatic recommendation from my mother who had eaten here before.

Osteria da Trombicche is on via Della Terme in Siena. We arrived from Pienza in time for lunch. After perusing the menu and looking in the cold case we selected several antipasti type items, some hot, some cold. We had mixed marinated vegetables, roasted garbanzo beans in olive oil and rosemary, a pasta with arugula pesto, zucchini stuffed with pork sausage, and the best thing, an incredibly creamy artichoke flan. Everything we ordered, plus a big bottle of water, a beer and 1/4 liter of house white came to about 40 euro.

They also had a gorgeous cheese and meat platter which we saw on another table (but did not order-I would get this next time). We were each given a little glass of Vin Santo by the owner as we were paying. I didn’t see any other people get this. However, we did clean our plates to the very last garbanzo. I liked the garbanzo dish so much, I created a recipe for on my other blog; Roasted Garbanzo Beans with Rosemary and Garlic.

Several years ago, my husband and I were in Rome with friends and were in the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva where St Catherine is buried. All except her head, that is. We learned she was martyred and her head was “in a box in a church in Siena”. After hearing that, it became a running joke, anytime anyone was acting like a martyr, someone would say, “I’ve got a box big enough for your head…”

Now that we were here in Siena, of course we had to go find this box with a head in it, which meant walking across town, up a steep hill in 95-degree heat, and sneaking a photo with my cell phone in a church filled with “no photo” signs. “Martyr, party of one….”

While in Siena, we also visited the famous gothic cathedral as well as the crypts underneath. The frescos are stunning, as is the architecture.

On the way back to our car, we walked through the famous piazza where the annual Palio horse race is held.

For the photos of the delicious lunch, the gorgeous churches, and my illicit (and blurry) photo of St Catherine's head, go here: Siena; Osteria da Trombicche and Sightseeing

hudsonguz

Great Trip Report! Thank you so much for sharing.

LouisaH

Wonderful trip report, and as always, your recipes. I’m looking forward to trying the garbanzo beans. I’ve been making your white bean, sausage, and kale soup ever since you posted it.

Unfortunately, we were only able to spend a few hours in Pienza and agree that it requires spending the night. On a Sunday morning in March the town was overrun with tour buses and it was not pleasant.

Kristina

Hudsonguz- Thanks so much!

LouisaH- I love that you make my soup! Do try the garbanzo beans. They are so simple and so delicious, I make them all the time. We were gone from Pienza during the daytime most days so never felt the tourist overrun too much. The evenings are lovely.

Kristina

Staying in Pompeii; Hotel Forum Pompeii and Restaurante Add u’ Mimi

We did something not many people do when visiting Pompeii and Herculaneum; we stayed in the town of Pompeii itself. Many, if not most, visitors to Pompeii come just for the day from places like Sorrento, Naples, or even Rome. They arrive by bus and train and are gone before the sun sets on the Bay of Naples. I’ve even done this myself, visiting Herculaneum by train from Naples on a day trip.

This time was different, as we drove to the area all the way from Pienza. Our plan was to drive down, visit Herculaneum in the afternoon, sleep in the town of Pompeii, visit the ruins of Pompeii the next morning and then heading to the Amalfi coast. It was jam-packed, but it worked, even though we had to spend the night in Pompeii to do it.

Hotel Forum, Pompeii

The Hotel Forum Pompeii is probably one of the best options in a town without a lot of choices. We booked a refurbished “garden view” room. It was nice enough, but on the ground floor so we felt like we needed to keep the drapes shut at all times for privacy.

The room was interesting. It was a good size, quite large, with a nice big bed and a good TV. The bathroom design was a bit odd. The sink was in the bedroom and it’s styled like a sloping trough (see photo below). The “faucet” is a chrome square pipe fixture which hangs down from the ceiling over the sink and splashes everywhere when turned on. That’s just poor design. The shower is a big walk-in type with a rain shower head and like most rain showers, does not put out enough water pressure to rinse one’s hair of shampoo. Also, there are rotating disco lights in the shower, I kid you not. The modern design extends to the uncomfortable, too high toilet.

The next morning we visited Pompeii (more on this later) getting there when they opened at 9am and leaving the site around noon (this was not our first visit and it was ungodly hot and crowded). We’d asked for a late checkout when checking in and were told no but I asked again the next morning and we were told we could check out at 1pm which was much appreciated.

That said, the hotel is conveniently close to the back entrance of the ruins of Pompeii. They have a little happy hour in the lobby bar area where they put out some snacks and you can order a drink from the bar, though I would recommend against the Negroni. Breakfast is served in the downstairs restaurant and has a decent choice of items in a buffet set up.

Dinner at Add 'u' Mimi

For dinner, we ate a place right down the street called Add ‘u’ Mimi, which is right down the street from the hotel. Get the house red, it’s excellent, and at the time was only about 5 euro for a nondescript unlabeled bottle. The octopus salad was fresh and perfectly cooked with a squeeze of lemon. The fried calamari (top photo of post) was outstanding as were our plates of pasta. If you have to stay in Pompeii overnight you can’t go wrong here.

For photos of our hotel and meal, go here: Staying in Pompeii; Hotel Forum Pompeii and Restaurante Add u Mimi

Next up, the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii and tips for visiting them.

Adelaidean

Enjoying your report and photos. Will have to try that bean recipe.
Pienza looks like a town I would enjoy wandering.

Kristina

Adelaidean- Thank you! Yes, Pienza is lovely.

Onward...

Pompeii and Herculaneum; Photos and Some Tips For Visiting the Ruins

I love walking around ruins. It thrills me to imagine what life was like thousands of years ago and seeing how some things haven’t changed (houses with fountains, shops that sell food or beer, bathhouses with hot and cold water), etc. I’ve managed to visit ruins all over the world; Thailand, Cambodia, Turkey, Morocco, Greece, England, Peru etc and those of the ancient Roman empire are some of the most complete and compelling. Who can resist the story of Pompeii? Who can’t help but imagine themselves with the fiery smoke and ash raining down from Mt Vesuvius burying everything in its path?

Over the last 25 years I’ve visited Pompeii several times and each time has been unique. The site is in a constant state of excavation and every time there is something new to see and explore. Herculaneum is Pompeii’s smaller and more accessible sister site. I first visited it in 2011 and for more complete photos and history than I will cover in this post, please click on this link to see my Day Trip to Herculaneum.

If you are going to visit both Pompeii and Herculaneum within 3 days, there is a pass you can buy to save a substantial amount of money off the cost of admission for both. The pass covers both sites as well as one of two others in the area (Oplontis or Boscoreale). This is the link to the official site for the Archaeological Park of Pompeii and the ticket and entrance info can be found there. Buying the entrance pass also saves waiting in line. We bought the pass at Herculaneum and then used it the next morning to get into Pompeii. Unfortunately, we did not have time to check out either of the other sites.

Tips for visiting Pompeii and Herculaneum:

• Wear closed toed shoes if possible. Lots of sandy dirt and I kept getting dirt and pebbles in my sandals. I imagine it’s also quite muddy in the rain.
• Plot your course but don’t expect everything to be open. The house of the Vetti was NOT open which was a disappointment.
• DO make the long walk out to the Villa of the Mysteries. It’s worth the trek as a lot has been restored since we were last here almost 20 years ago. Still, half the villa is closed off.
• Hire a guide if you think it’s necessary, otherwise, there are audio tours available and maps. We walked around Pompeii and Herculaneum on our own, but this was not our first visit.
• Bring water and snacks into both as there’s not much in the way of food available. There is a pricey snack bar in each; in Pompeii, it’s run by the AutoGrill and in Herculaneum, it’s only vending machines. Or, eat at Add u’ Mimi about a block outside the ruins of Pompeii.
• Buy the combo entrance ticket to save almost 50% (see above).

Herculaneum:

While everyone wants to see Pompeii (and for good reason) Herculaneum is well worth a trip if you have time. We visited on a summer afternoon, after driving all the way from Pienza and managed to see most of the site within a few hours. As I mentioned in the link to my 2011 post above, a visit to either site can also be done as a day trip from Naples. If you are driving there, search out the official parking lot for the ruins. We did not do this and ended up paying 5 euro to wedge ourselves into a restaurant parking lot space when we should have kept going to find the one for the ruins (no idea as to the cost, but we could see it from the ticket area and it was closer).

One of the things I like best about Herculaneum is the compact size and the completeness of some of the building and streets. It’s really easy to get a sense of a “neighborhood” when walking through about 6 square blacks of excavated buildings and streets that sit well below the modern-day town of Erculano. They say there is much more underneath the town which has yet to be (may never be?) unearthed.

Pompeii:

My sister in law writes about women in ancient Rome and asked us to take some photos of the famous brothel for her latest book. The brothel is one of the most popular sites in Pompeii, most likely because people are titillated by the painted images on the walls of the various “options” available therein, but I can only hope the place was less spartan when active 2000 years ago. A rock-hewn pillow doesn’t look that comfortable.

We also visited the stunning Villa of the Mysteries with its gorgeous frescoes, the thermal baths where it's easy to imagine oneself soaking in the hot water, and the Forum where there was a special exhibit going on inside a giant plywood pyramid.

Click here for all my photos of Herculaneum and Pompeii: Pompeii and Herculaneum; Photos and Some Tips For Visiting the Ruins

Dayle

Have you read Ferenc Mate's books? I read them several years ago and his really is an excellent writer. I have been curious about his winery since I read his book about buying and remodeling the old house, clearing and planing the vineyards. I plan to visit on my next trip!

Kristina

No, I haven't. I had no idea he was so prolific too. I'll have to check them out. The property is really beautiful. Hope you get to visit.

ebvacationer

Kristina, Love your trip report!
My husband and I are thinking about planning a trip to visit the same areas you visited. But, we are in our late 60’s/early 70’s and would much prefer to have a private English-speaking driver.
Do you think this would even be feasible?
Several years ago we were able to see quite a bit of Italy during a cruise that started with us spending 4 days in Venice. One of our favorite stops was the Sorrento/Positani/Amalie area. Beautiful.
Thank you for sharing your wonderful trip report!