Trulli Foodie Puglia-two weeks to eat through!!!
May 28th, 2012, 12:04 AM
#82
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Ah,
in Conversano there's a friend of mine that produce oil and manage local products (food).
If you would to bring out some apulian tastes you could consider him
http://www.frantoiodorazio.it/e_index.php
I use all of his products
Ask for Francesco*
Vito
* He's my wedding witness
in Conversano there's a friend of mine that produce oil and manage local products (food).
If you would to bring out some apulian tastes you could consider him
http://www.frantoiodorazio.it/e_index.php
I use all of his products
Ask for Francesco*
Vito
* He's my wedding witness
May 28th, 2012, 06:05 AM
#87
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So while we are having a little siesta (this morning was busy- alberobello and locorotondo!) time for a foodie update.
First i have almost recovered from our meal at il frotoio-phew!!! we have learned from it though. No more huge lunches!!!
So today after a couple of coffees in alberobello |(cute unique place, have to see it, dozens of white and silver trulli packed in tight together, which in the dazzling sun really look quite pretty!! Some set up as little shops and a lot still lived in as houses. I felt a little sorry for the residents, as i think if you took the number of tourists we had seen to date in Puglia and x 20 you still were nowhere near the tourists here, even on a "quiet" monday morning. I can't even begin to imagine what it is like in August!! It is almost like a toy town. Its definitely worth seeing and quite a few places selling pasta etc etc etc. Tip- visit the guy opposite the main stretch of cafes as he sells the sugared praline almonds! hmmmmmm they're back!!!! these ones are even bigger than the ones we had before. Also sells lots of olives included some huge plump and juicy chilli olives as well as lots of dried figs -i think they were figs anyway. You pay for the location mind at 8 euros for the two medium sized portions- but the are more than worth it.
Then on to Locorotondo, which was empty!!!!!! where are all the tourists!!!??? - oh yes is Alberobello
Locorotondo really is a pretty town (i think it is part of a group on beautiful villages/towns of Italy). Lots of mini white washed streets with the odd bit of baroque doors/windows.Beautiful big Church and on the whole very pretty indeed (also wonderful views from a little park down into the valley-pick your favourite trulli complex that you would have for your home!). Being Monday a lot of places were shut, and we were most sad that the pizza place basto was closed
we had heard great things!! But there was a truly divine smell coming from one place. So good that we spent about 10 minutes trying to find itt again after our wonder round. We did- yeh!! Think the smell came from the house foccacia that we were served when we sat (again just us!) down in the place- "Ai Tre Santi" . We then resisted the antipasti and just went for pasta. One orichiette with tomato and ricotta and one stuffed ravioli with mean and mozarella.
Both were absolutely yummy- the best oriichette in tomato sauce we had had. Slightly olive-oily but this was the good olive-oily!! In fact-delicious, I even used the melon slices we were given on side to mop up the sauce of each. Tasty, simple pasta in Puglia-this is what we came for The ravioli were huge (got 5- thats how big they were). The ricotta works so well it got me thinking why are we all so obsessed with parmesan over in the UK when this hard ricotta really packs a punch when it comes to flavour.
They were both cooked fresh to order by the guy running it (who was a tiny bit grumpy when we first arrived but soon started smiling). It was really excellent and we completely forgot about the pizza place (although it is supposed to be excellent!)
Nice and full we ventured back to the villa for the odd sugared praline almond with just one thought as we drove past little complexes of trulli homes....Puglia seemed nowhere near as poor as i had heard it was.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm
First i have almost recovered from our meal at il frotoio-phew!!! we have learned from it though. No more huge lunches!!!
So today after a couple of coffees in alberobello |(cute unique place, have to see it, dozens of white and silver trulli packed in tight together, which in the dazzling sun really look quite pretty!! Some set up as little shops and a lot still lived in as houses. I felt a little sorry for the residents, as i think if you took the number of tourists we had seen to date in Puglia and x 20 you still were nowhere near the tourists here, even on a "quiet" monday morning. I can't even begin to imagine what it is like in August!! It is almost like a toy town. Its definitely worth seeing and quite a few places selling pasta etc etc etc. Tip- visit the guy opposite the main stretch of cafes as he sells the sugared praline almonds! hmmmmmm they're back!!!! these ones are even bigger than the ones we had before. Also sells lots of olives included some huge plump and juicy chilli olives as well as lots of dried figs -i think they were figs anyway. You pay for the location mind at 8 euros for the two medium sized portions- but the are more than worth it.
Then on to Locorotondo, which was empty!!!!!! where are all the tourists!!!??? - oh yes is Alberobello
Locorotondo really is a pretty town (i think it is part of a group on beautiful villages/towns of Italy). Lots of mini white washed streets with the odd bit of baroque doors/windows.Beautiful big Church and on the whole very pretty indeed (also wonderful views from a little park down into the valley-pick your favourite trulli complex that you would have for your home!). Being Monday a lot of places were shut, and we were most sad that the pizza place basto was closed
we had heard great things!! But there was a truly divine smell coming from one place. So good that we spent about 10 minutes trying to find itt again after our wonder round. We did- yeh!! Think the smell came from the house foccacia that we were served when we sat (again just us!) down in the place- "Ai Tre Santi" . We then resisted the antipasti and just went for pasta. One orichiette with tomato and ricotta and one stuffed ravioli with mean and mozarella. Both were absolutely yummy- the best oriichette in tomato sauce we had had. Slightly olive-oily but this was the good olive-oily!! In fact-delicious, I even used the melon slices we were given on side to mop up the sauce of each. Tasty, simple pasta in Puglia-this is what we came for
The ravioli were huge (got 5- thats how big they were). The ricotta works so well it got me thinking why are we all so obsessed with parmesan over in the UK when this hard ricotta really packs a punch when it comes to flavour.They were both cooked fresh to order by the guy running it (who was a tiny bit grumpy when we first arrived but soon started smiling). It was really excellent and we completely forgot about the pizza place (although it is supposed to be excellent!)
Nice and full we ventured back to the villa for the odd sugared praline almond with just one thought as we drove past little complexes of trulli homes....Puglia seemed nowhere near as poor as i had heard it was.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm
May 28th, 2012, 08:17 AM
#89
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Hi HG001London,
you can send an email to [email protected]
The "Frantoio" (place where making the oil) is open Mon-Fri 8.30-18.30 and in the saturday morning.
Vito
you can send an email to [email protected]
The "Frantoio" (place where making the oil) is open Mon-Fri 8.30-18.30 and in the saturday morning.
Vito
May 28th, 2012, 01:16 PM
#91
HG - glad to see that you have recovered sufficiently to eat a little bit!
seriously, by about half-way through a trip, i find that I'm eating far less than at the beginning - it's as though my body reaches a satiation point at which it automatically starts to cut back.
i'm working away this week, and staying in a hotel, and I can feel it beginning to happen already!
BTW - which was the dish the mere thought of which was making you heave? honestly, i couldn't tell!
seriously, by about half-way through a trip, i find that I'm eating far less than at the beginning - it's as though my body reaches a satiation point at which it automatically starts to cut back.
i'm working away this week, and staying in a hotel, and I can feel it beginning to happen already!
BTW - which was the dish the mere thought of which was making you heave? honestly, i couldn't tell!
May 28th, 2012, 01:49 PM
#92
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yeah i completely get what you mean we had a far lighter day today (lunch great but dinner a huge huge let down!- more on that tomorrow).
oh the dish was the lasagne slap (i actully just coughed writing that)- it was quite nice at time but on my it will haunt me for a long time!!
Hope you are managing to enjoy a hotel despite being at work too.
we had a far lighter day today (lunch great but dinner a huge huge let down!- more on that tomorrow).oh the dish was the lasagne slap (i actully just coughed writing that)- it was quite nice at time but on my it will haunt me for a long time!!
Hope you are managing to enjoy a hotel despite being at work too.
May 28th, 2012, 02:10 PM
#93
Hope you are managing to enjoy a hotel despite being at work too.>>
not too bad as I've not actually got a whole load to do except sit at the back and make a note, so the main problem is boredom.
the hotel is quite pleasant - a nice position over looking the Avon Gorge and once the hoi-poloi have gone home, very quiet. and the weather is glorious. [the fact that it's raining at home makes it even sweeter].
not too bad as I've not actually got a whole load to do except sit at the back and make a note, so the main problem is boredom.
the hotel is quite pleasant - a nice position over looking the Avon Gorge and once the hoi-poloi have gone home, very quiet. and the weather is glorious. [the fact that it's raining at home makes it even sweeter].
May 28th, 2012, 10:28 PM
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ok so extremely quick right up of last night's foodiness!
every trip has to have one bad meal and sadly and unknown to us when we headed off in our little car to san vito, a tiny fishing cover in north pogliano, that this would be it.
We went to locanda di Abbrazia (which gets excellent reviews) and already had a badish feeling when despite walking up to entrance, the staff were determined that they would not let us (or another couple who left before they even entered as they seem annoyed too) in before 8. So we strolled back to the water and watched the fisherman go off for there night fishing before reterning several times until the door was already open. Again only ones there!!!
Started of well with some very nice prawns mornay but the mains of grilled mixed fish (the lemon risotto i actually wanted could only be done for 2- very annoying!) were absolutely bland as anything ever!! a good quantity but tasted of zero!! The most enjoyable bit was dipping the chips in the ketchup/mayo combo we created ( a la the burger van of surbiton we treat ourselves to at home every once in a while!).
We were both so disappointed - it was truly the worst meal we had had in a long time. To top it off we were then practically ignored- not offered coffee, we had to wait ages to get attention to get bill despite being only ones there. We payed (70 euros!!!!!) without leaving any tip and left quite annoyed. The odd thing was the whole time the owner was on his laptop looking at wines, vegetables etc etc with the other two guys sat watching discussing them. So he did seem to care about his produce but was totally taking for granted his customers (all 2 of them!).
On the bright side, San vito was cute and very eerie with all the birds flying around.
every trip has to have one bad meal and sadly and unknown to us when we headed off in our little car to san vito, a tiny fishing cover in north pogliano, that this would be it.
We went to locanda di Abbrazia (which gets excellent reviews) and already had a badish feeling when despite walking up to entrance, the staff were determined that they would not let us (or another couple who left before they even entered as they seem annoyed too) in before 8. So we strolled back to the water and watched the fisherman go off for there night fishing before reterning several times until the door was already open. Again only ones there!!!
Started of well with some very nice prawns mornay but the mains of grilled mixed fish (the lemon risotto i actually wanted could only be done for 2- very annoying!) were absolutely bland as anything ever!! a good quantity but tasted of zero!! The most enjoyable bit was dipping the chips in the ketchup/mayo combo we created ( a la the burger van of surbiton we treat ourselves to at home every once in a while!).
We were both so disappointed - it was truly the worst meal we had had in a long time. To top it off we were then practically ignored- not offered coffee, we had to wait ages to get attention to get bill despite being only ones there. We payed (70 euros!!!!!) without leaving any tip and left quite annoyed. The odd thing was the whole time the owner was on his laptop looking at wines, vegetables etc etc with the other two guys sat watching discussing them. So he did seem to care about his produce but was totally taking for granted his customers (all 2 of them!).
On the bright side, San vito was cute and very eerie with all the birds flying around.
May 29th, 2012, 07:46 AM
#96
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Went fff to Lecce today which took us away from the white washed stone of the valle d'itria and into a pinky/orchre orange baroque town scoffing on yummy conetto di cioccolato at the local bakery on the way (ok so they are nutella but they still taste delicious!)
Lecce is indeed very pretty and the old town has lots of baroque Churches and beautiful architecture, although was a bit smaller that i expected. It was a bit tricky parking but we found somewhere in the end, after the odd "toot" from the locals as we went at a snail's pace through the streets with the P signs. (Of and folk due a trip: Parking lines read yellow-never park. Blue-Park and often pay during peak hours and white-free parking. I think!) I loved the colour of the stone-almost pinky and really gives a feeling of warmth. The amphitheatres were nice to see too and its good they have not been built over as they are true pieces of history. (although the group of 20 or so school children obviously disagreed going by the look of boredom on their faces)
Walked round the quiet back lanes and found a pretty little delli that did coffee so had ourselves a couple of expressinos (expresso with milk- we were told these were the coffees to try!) and they were quite yummy! For lunch i was super annoyed to find "Pizza & Co" didn't open to 6pm!!!I had been craving pizza for 24 hours!! arrhh, so we quickly found somewhere else on the main stretch, i forget the name but it definitely was something "pizzaria". We settled in the back little "pizzaria" garden and tried to order a couple of pizzas ("no, no- pizza la cera!!) Arhh why is pizza only in the evening Oh well the locals know best and we admitted defeat and promised ourselves a trip to Il Tronco tomorrow or thursday. For now, we decided to have some lemon risotto with prawns (again this was only available for two, so maybe i was a little harsh on last night's place- on second thoughts you couldn't be too harsh on last night's place) . The risotto was super light yet creamy and lemony and a nice change from pasta and taught me that you don't need to stuff it with parmesan. Again cooked perfect (how does even the smallest of places here always get it spot on!) But my partner hated the black bit left in the prawns, so with much attempts to get them out ended up leaving the prawns- i ventured on and really enjoyed them- very fresh. I ordered one piccolo glass of vino bianco -she repeated "piccalo?", "si" i said. I was then given (no kidding) the world's biggest glass of wine!!! it was like one of those ones you get as a birthday pressent that fits an entire bottle. Oh well i'm still on holiday so i drank it!!
We did our first real bit of shopping and picked up some pasta in the "Benedetto Cavalieri" branding which we had read was very good. We also found a jar of "sugo con ricotta"-we are hoping it is like what we had in il frantoio-will sample tonight and if it is even half as good will be very annoyed we only got the one jar. That stuff was so so tasty!!!! Finally we found a great deli on the main drag (Lecce are definitely into their delis- which is great as so are we!!) and we bought some buffalo mozarella and a huge salami piccante (hmm they are both rather large so not sure how we will get through them!).
Back at the villa now, snacking on the oldd sugared almond or chilli olive. Hmmmmm
Lecce is indeed very pretty and the old town has lots of baroque Churches and beautiful architecture, although was a bit smaller that i expected. It was a bit tricky parking but we found somewhere in the end, after the odd "toot" from the locals as we went at a snail's pace through the streets with the P signs. (Of and folk due a trip: Parking lines read yellow-never park. Blue-Park and often pay during peak hours and white-free parking. I think!) I loved the colour of the stone-almost pinky and really gives a feeling of warmth. The amphitheatres were nice to see too and its good they have not been built over as they are true pieces of history. (although the group of 20 or so school children obviously disagreed going by the look of boredom on their faces)
Walked round the quiet back lanes and found a pretty little delli that did coffee so had ourselves a couple of expressinos (expresso with milk- we were told these were the coffees to try!) and they were quite yummy! For lunch i was super annoyed to find "Pizza & Co" didn't open to 6pm!!!I had been craving pizza for 24 hours!! arrhh, so we quickly found somewhere else on the main stretch, i forget the name but it definitely was something "pizzaria". We settled in the back little "pizzaria" garden and tried to order a couple of pizzas ("no, no- pizza la cera!!) Arhh why is pizza only in the evening
Oh well the locals know best and we admitted defeat and promised ourselves a trip to Il Tronco tomorrow or thursday. For now, we decided to have some lemon risotto with prawns (again this was only available for two, so maybe i was a little harsh on last night's place- on second thoughts you couldn't be too harsh on last night's place) . The risotto was super light yet creamy and lemony and a nice change from pasta and taught me that you don't need to stuff it with parmesan. Again cooked perfect (how does even the smallest of places here always get it spot on!) But my partner hated the black bit left in the prawns, so with much attempts to get them out ended up leaving the prawns- i ventured on and really enjoyed them- very fresh. I ordered one piccolo glass of vino bianco -she repeated "piccalo?", "si" i said. I was then given (no kidding) the world's biggest glass of wine!!! it was like one of those ones you get as a birthday pressent that fits an entire bottle. Oh well i'm still on holiday so i drank it!!We did our first real bit of shopping and picked up some pasta in the "Benedetto Cavalieri" branding which we had read was very good. We also found a jar of "sugo con ricotta"-we are hoping it is like what we had in il frantoio-will sample tonight and if it is even half as good will be very annoyed we only got the one jar. That stuff was so so tasty!!!! Finally we found a great deli on the main drag (Lecce are definitely into their delis- which is great as so are we!!) and we bought some buffalo mozarella and a huge salami piccante (hmm they are both rather large so not sure how we will get through them!).
Back at the villa now, snacking on the oldd sugared almond or chilli olive. Hmmmmm
May 29th, 2012, 10:10 PM
#100
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Carol- thanks, you should come its a foodie heaven here
kawh- ahhhh makes sense now!!!
Jubilada- it was very nice and light, although my partner said one that i make at home is better!!! i disagree but nice compliment to know i can compete on a small level with the Italians! Lecce is definitely worth a stop.
Update on the salami- having sampled last night, all concerns about not being able to get through it went out the window and instead mission set to accomplish before we leave- must find exact same salami to take home.
It is gorgeously intense and so so spicey-now i love spice and meat and so this was super yummy. It has a huge layer of fat running down the spine which may sound a little off putting but it gave it some amazingly moist almost gooey texture 9/10 in the salami/other sausage rankings (only beaten by a 10/10 saucisson infused with fois-gras that we bought from a tiny place on the left bank of Paris....OMG don't even get me started on that!!). I'm sad to say that we have now run out of gorgonzola we (well mostly I) ate the last bit last night. I've decided that it truly is in my top ten food items and i no longer have a need for butter
So in case you hadn't gathered we stayed in for dinner last night as we had been out more that we planned to in the evenings and had a load of stuff to be eaten. Got back from Lecce and the sun was blazing so cooled of in the pool (ahhhh, glad the weather has improved as it is such a nice pool!) For dinner gad a nice speck/ricotta ravioli with a side of salad caprese ( our little basil plant "basil" was in need of being eaten!) and we were so impressed how ripe yet firm and lovely the tomatoes were a week and a half on from buying them (they don't last 3/4 days in UK). That lovely deep red colour, still not too soft and with the buffalo mozarella from Lecce went down a treat (of of course smothered with extra virgin olive oil). Washed down with some local white wine from Marina Franca for me and that scrumptious red wine for partner......we were reminded that in a few days we would be back to work and not have the excuse to enjoy wine everyday Oh well look on the bright side, 3 days left to make the most of!! We sampled the tomato and ricotta jarred stuff and was nowhere near as good at the divinely tasty one at Il Frantoio - teaches us for using a jarred sauce!
kawh- ahhhh makes sense now!!!
Jubilada- it was very nice and light, although my partner said one that i make at home is better!!! i disagree but nice compliment to know i can compete on a small level with the Italians! Lecce is definitely worth a stop.
Update on the salami- having sampled last night, all concerns about not being able to get through it went out the window and instead mission set to accomplish before we leave- must find exact same salami to take home.
It is gorgeously intense and so so spicey-now i love spice and meat and so this was super yummy. It has a huge layer of fat running down the spine which may sound a little off putting but it gave it some amazingly moist almost gooey texture 9/10 in the salami/other sausage rankings (only beaten by a 10/10 saucisson infused with fois-gras that we bought from a tiny place on the left bank of Paris....OMG don't even get me started on that!!). I'm sad to say that we have now run out of gorgonzola
we (well mostly I) ate the last bit last night. I've decided that it truly is in my top ten food items and i no longer have a need for butter So in case you hadn't gathered we stayed in for dinner last night as we had been out more that we planned to in the evenings and had a load of stuff to be eaten. Got back from Lecce and the sun was blazing so cooled of in the pool (ahhhh, glad the weather has improved as it is such a nice pool!) For dinner gad a nice speck/ricotta ravioli with a side of salad caprese ( our little basil plant "basil" was in need of being eaten!) and we were so impressed how ripe yet firm and lovely the tomatoes were a week and a half on from buying them (they don't last 3/4 days in UK). That lovely deep red colour, still not too soft and with the buffalo mozarella from Lecce went down a treat (of of course smothered with extra virgin olive oil). Washed down with some local white wine from Marina Franca for me and that scrumptious red wine for partner......we were reminded that in a few days we would be back to work and not have the excuse to enjoy wine everyday
Oh well look on the bright side, 3 days left to make the most of!! We sampled the tomato and ricotta jarred stuff and was nowhere near as good at the divinely tasty one at Il Frantoio - teaches us for using a jarred sauce!
