Trulli Foodie Puglia-two weeks to eat through!!!
May 24th, 2012, 12:23 PM
#41
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Ann, Eks im sorry to say but i have failed!!
We just went for dinner....now i knew that two meals a day like this couldn't work from my last encounter but i was so keen i had us eat out again and on the way home we actually had to stop mid mortorway as i was so ill. Two minutes earlier i was absolutely fine and suddenly the most intense pain i have ever had came over me. I have never felt anything like it and was actually scared i was going to collapse!!!!
Eventually we drove on with my head half out of a fully open window all the way home- i couldn't even help us navigate out narrow country road- i looked like a mannequin handing out the window.
So im sorry, truly i am as i wanted to face food head on and win....and clearly i have failed
perhaps tomorrow i will feel brave enough to re-live the dinner and let you folks know how it went, but for now i am well and truly ignoring all the puglia treats in the villa.
Italian Food 1: Me:0
We just went for dinner....now i knew that two meals a day like this couldn't work from my last encounter but i was so keen i had us eat out again and on the way home we actually had to stop mid mortorway as i was so ill. Two minutes earlier i was absolutely fine and suddenly the most intense pain i have ever had came over me. I have never felt anything like it and was actually scared i was going to collapse!!!!
Eventually we drove on with my head half out of a fully open window all the way home- i couldn't even help us navigate out narrow country road- i looked like a mannequin handing out the window.
So im sorry, truly i am as i wanted to face food head on and win....and clearly i have failed
perhaps tomorrow i will feel brave enough to re-live the dinner and let you folks know how it went, but for now i am well and truly ignoring all the puglia treats in the villa.
Italian Food 1: Me:0
May 24th, 2012, 01:34 PM
#43
perhaps tomorrow i will feel brave enough to re-live the dinner and let you folks know how it went, but for now i am well and truly ignoring all the puglia treats in the villa. >>
oh dear - the spirit was willing....
hope the flesh perks up soon!
oh dear - the spirit was willing....
hope the flesh perks up soon!
May 24th, 2012, 09:44 PM
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ok i can face writing about it now just
(thanks for all your well wishes-i am nearly recovered, and happy to share all these little experiences as helps me make like of subject- i will need to seek out biterscott's story)
So last night we went to Il Cortiletto in Fasano area and just outside Pezze di Greco (i think there is another restaurnat with same name in Fasano centro, this one was on via lecce)
http://www.tripadvisor.it/Restaurant...si_Puglia.html
Its a pretty little place with warm yellow decor inside and a pretyy stone white terrace outside with lots of dried chillies/fruit hanging on the walls. We were sat in the courtyard and were the first to arrive but it soon filled up despite being the restaurant in the least tourist place we had ben to (it was just a roadside place in a quiet resi area). It was mostly full of locals with except maybe one other british couple.
There were no menus and the waitress told you the offereings (antipasta, 3 different pastas and several secondi plats) We just about picked up what was on offer despite being said in Italian (with the ok english word when our faces looked truly confused) went with antipasti and ocreciette with rolled mean stuffed with mozarella and zuccini flower and the pettole balls (thanks eks
)
Not realising it fully we had ordered a near identical mains to what we had in cistercino!
The antipasta was very good, with very tasty quiche style dishes that had lots of flavour as well as ham, cheese, relishes and a yummy pearl barly little risotto looking tower and a truly sweet mini onion gratin which was perfected well. There was also a gorgeous fat little fluffy soft fritata of some sort- almost like a corn cake without the corn. It came with a gorgeous pink sauce which i would love to know what it was!
As soon as we finished these we were very grateful we had only ordered pasta and not secondi plats.
The orichiette was done very simply in sweet but sharp passata with parmesan springled on the top and the meat rolls/ cooked pettole were served in a big stew dish for two. The mat was a tad tough but very flavoursome indeed. We were both quite contently full (too full but i didn't know that yet!!) and asked for il conto. 44 euros including 2 glasses of wine and a bee and three little dolce cakes-i definitely should NOT have eaten these but i did!, and while they were very well made they all were marzipan based and that is one of the very few things i truly hate!
The place is definitely a popular locals spot and there was a table of 8 loud men enjoying a good meal- i commented to my partner that in Italy blokes don't go for a drinking session in the pub for their big night our they come to feast on delicious food instead!
The secondi plats coming out did look very very nice. The decor was lovely and charming and it was very pretty with little candles in nooks and crannies of the white stone. It made me think of the strong greek feel Puglia has and how very different it is from northern Italy.
Probably not our best meal but i think if we had tried the secondi plats we would have been more blown away. Don't get me wrong the pasta was very tasty but too simple a choice for it to be in the running for best meal. The antipasti. Would definitely recommend though and this place is clearly a winner with the locals, whom are the true judges!
So we set off home and your know what happened then! ;-)
Today Matera or Lecce- not quite decided yet- hoping to stop feeling so full!
Food cravings of pasta- come back to me please, I am in Puglia- I need you
On a side note, after being totally convinced that Puglia was the foodie capital of Italy, i have done further reading and it appears to have two northern serious contenders- Piedmont and Emilia Romagna (whom i hear always battle amongst themselves for the crown-beware of Puglia guys!!)- Anyhow i thought oh dear i am just going to have to visit them! I went to Bologna once but it was over the easter weekend so very little was open and at the time it ranked it furthest down on my city stopping tour. I have always felt i misjudged this place as continue to hear wonderful things about it so now i have an excuse to go back and seek out that divine world renound vinegar that features in 70% of what we cook at home! But although it doesn't have the balsamic vinegar crown, Puglia produces circa 45% of all italian olive oil and that's pretty foodie eh!
(thanks for all your well wishes-i am nearly recovered, and happy to share all these little experiences as helps me make like of subject- i will need to seek out biterscott's story)
So last night we went to Il Cortiletto in Fasano area and just outside Pezze di Greco (i think there is another restaurnat with same name in Fasano centro, this one was on via lecce)
http://www.tripadvisor.it/Restaurant...si_Puglia.html
Its a pretty little place with warm yellow decor inside and a pretyy stone white terrace outside with lots of dried chillies/fruit hanging on the walls. We were sat in the courtyard and were the first to arrive but it soon filled up despite being the restaurant in the least tourist place we had ben to (it was just a roadside place in a quiet resi area). It was mostly full of locals with except maybe one other british couple.
There were no menus and the waitress told you the offereings (antipasta, 3 different pastas and several secondi plats) We just about picked up what was on offer despite being said in Italian (with the ok english word when our faces looked truly confused) went with antipasti and ocreciette with rolled mean stuffed with mozarella and zuccini flower and the pettole balls (thanks eks
)Not realising it fully we had ordered a near identical mains to what we had in cistercino!
The antipasta was very good, with very tasty quiche style dishes that had lots of flavour as well as ham, cheese, relishes and a yummy pearl barly little risotto looking tower and a truly sweet mini onion gratin which was perfected well. There was also a gorgeous fat little fluffy soft fritata of some sort- almost like a corn cake without the corn. It came with a gorgeous pink sauce which i would love to know what it was!
As soon as we finished these we were very grateful we had only ordered pasta and not secondi plats.
The orichiette was done very simply in sweet but sharp passata with parmesan springled on the top and the meat rolls/ cooked pettole were served in a big stew dish for two. The mat was a tad tough but very flavoursome indeed. We were both quite contently full (too full but i didn't know that yet!!) and asked for il conto. 44 euros including 2 glasses of wine and a bee and three little dolce cakes-i definitely should NOT have eaten these but i did!, and while they were very well made they all were marzipan based and that is one of the very few things i truly hate!
The place is definitely a popular locals spot and there was a table of 8 loud men enjoying a good meal- i commented to my partner that in Italy blokes don't go for a drinking session in the pub for their big night our they come to feast on delicious food instead!
The secondi plats coming out did look very very nice. The decor was lovely and charming and it was very pretty with little candles in nooks and crannies of the white stone. It made me think of the strong greek feel Puglia has and how very different it is from northern Italy.
Probably not our best meal but i think if we had tried the secondi plats we would have been more blown away. Don't get me wrong the pasta was very tasty but too simple a choice for it to be in the running for best meal. The antipasti. Would definitely recommend though and this place is clearly a winner with the locals, whom are the true judges!
So we set off home and your know what happened then! ;-)
Today Matera or Lecce- not quite decided yet- hoping to stop feeling so full!
Food cravings of pasta- come back to me please, I am in Puglia- I need you
On a side note, after being totally convinced that Puglia was the foodie capital of Italy, i have done further reading and it appears to have two northern serious contenders- Piedmont and Emilia Romagna (whom i hear always battle amongst themselves for the crown-beware of Puglia guys!!)- Anyhow i thought oh dear i am just going to have to visit them! I went to Bologna once but it was over the easter weekend so very little was open and at the time it ranked it furthest down on my city stopping tour. I have always felt i misjudged this place as continue to hear wonderful things about it so now i have an excuse to go back and seek out that divine world renound vinegar that features in 70% of what we cook at home! But although it doesn't have the balsamic vinegar crown, Puglia produces circa 45% of all italian olive oil and that's pretty foodie eh!
May 24th, 2012, 11:45 PM
#51
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Haha love the food description - cannot wait to get there!!!
Here is last years trip report where bikerscott lost his battle with food!
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ance-again.cfm
Looking forward to more!!
Here is last years trip report where bikerscott lost his battle with food!
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ance-again.cfm
Looking forward to more!!
May 24th, 2012, 11:54 PM
#52
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ah cool thanks Jamikins will have a res through tonight, ooh i am going to be so jealous when we are leaving and you are on your way here-sure it will be a great trip
Ok coffee-done, yummy bread- done..Matera here we come!!
Ok coffee-done, yummy bread- done..Matera here we come!!
May 25th, 2012, 09:42 AM
#53
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Today we went to Matera and viewed the unique sassi. The drive along the back roads into Basilica was very quiet roads and vast open fields with only the odd hay bale here and there and some cute baby foals, reminded me that agriculture still is such a dominant (number 1) industry down here.
The sassis are very unique indeed and we were surprised (and relieved) to suddenly see then after walking the new town for so long thinking they had gone! They truly are quite something and worth a visit to see.
I have to say don't try and use a map once you find them!! it was very difficult and we ended up just walking wherever the cobbled lanes would take us. They were (again!) very very quiet and we only saw a handful of people walking through them, so apart from dozens or sparrows chirping away we had the little world of sassi to ourselves I am assuming in summer these places are busy right? i cant believe how few tourists there are- don't get me wrong its great but very unexpected.
For lunch we went to
http://www.osteriapico.it/en/
deep in the sassi and enjoyed some great antipasti "pico"
A gorgeous bean rich soup (kindoff!) with soft cheese sprinkled on top which was yummy and had little black eyed beans (my favourite!) bursting with flavour and a juicy pork dish with fennel (i though i disliked funnel turns out i don't!) which was just that tiny bit spicy, a very tasted wilted spinach dish was excellent and again great depth of flavour and again some nice salty cheese and local hams and some of the regions fired peppers ("fingerfood") which were very different and almost like pepper popcorn in texture (all thought were long peppers rather than being popcorn shape!!). The antipasti was on the whole wonderful and very unique and seemed to keep on coming! ("no finito" he kept on saying!!!- oh dear i was getting a sense of deja vu for later on!)
We then moved on to pasta (can you ever get fed up of pasta?)...I had the local dish of strozapetti pasta which featured that yummy pepper this time chopped up and pana fritta (fried breadcrumbs). The pasta was cooked to perfection and had just the right amount of tasty coating of delicate sauce- pasta don't always need parmesan here (and in fact more often have ricotta) as their own flavours hold their own!! (i had attempted this strozapetti style pasta in the villa and got it very wrong!). My partner's cavatelli con funghi and sausage was also very good, with a very deep earthy taste which was certainly very filling and rich. Again cooked perfectly al dente with the right amount of coating.
We got a bottle of wine by accident (thought we had ordered a caraffe) but we thought oh well i will just have to have as much as i can, my partner a very small glass (driving) and we would leave the rest. It was from basilica and very enjoyable (all the wines we have had have been great) although my head is suffering now.
The restaurant is very unique and a great space in the arches with tables going extremely deep down. The guy in charge was very pleasant and helpful and we enjoyed listening to his enthusiasm for the dishes even though again we only made out the odd word here and there. There was just one young chef who we saw pop out on occasion, i was surprised how young he was given the quality of the food. Bravo!!!
I have decided i have over-eated and just know my stomach can not take one more bite of food or i might be very very ill!!- dinner has been cancelled despite being the place i was looking forward to most I just know i cant risk it so will desparately try to re-arrange for another night when we can really enjoy it and are both feeling well again and not so overfed and on the verge of getting very ill!!) This reporting may need to be a part time job!!
If i recover before midnight i might manage some of that delicious creamy parma ham and gorgonzola in the fridge- it would after all be a sin to waste these!!
The sassis are very unique indeed and we were surprised (and relieved) to suddenly see then after walking the new town for so long thinking they had gone! They truly are quite something and worth a visit to see.
I have to say don't try and use a map once you find them!! it was very difficult and we ended up just walking wherever the cobbled lanes would take us. They were (again!) very very quiet and we only saw a handful of people walking through them, so apart from dozens or sparrows chirping away we had the little world of sassi to ourselves
I am assuming in summer these places are busy right? i cant believe how few tourists there are- don't get me wrong its great but very unexpected.For lunch we went to
http://www.osteriapico.it/en/
deep in the sassi and enjoyed some great antipasti "pico"
A gorgeous bean rich soup (kindoff!) with soft cheese sprinkled on top which was yummy and had little black eyed beans (my favourite!) bursting with flavour and a juicy pork dish with fennel (i though i disliked funnel turns out i don't!) which was just that tiny bit spicy, a very tasted wilted spinach dish was excellent and again great depth of flavour and again some nice salty cheese and local hams and some of the regions fired peppers ("fingerfood") which were very different and almost like pepper popcorn in texture (all thought were long peppers rather than being popcorn shape!!). The antipasti was on the whole wonderful and very unique and seemed to keep on coming! ("no finito" he kept on saying!!!- oh dear i was getting a sense of deja vu for later on!)
We then moved on to pasta (can you ever get fed up of pasta?)...I had the local dish of strozapetti pasta which featured that yummy pepper this time chopped up and pana fritta (fried breadcrumbs). The pasta was cooked to perfection and had just the right amount of tasty coating of delicate sauce- pasta don't always need parmesan here (and in fact more often have ricotta) as their own flavours hold their own!! (i had attempted this strozapetti style pasta in the villa and got it very wrong!). My partner's cavatelli con funghi and sausage was also very good, with a very deep earthy taste which was certainly very filling and rich. Again cooked perfectly al dente with the right amount of coating.
We got a bottle of wine by accident (thought we had ordered a caraffe) but we thought oh well i will just have to have as much as i can, my partner a very small glass (driving) and we would leave the rest. It was from basilica and very enjoyable (all the wines we have had have been great) although my head is suffering now.
The restaurant is very unique and a great space in the arches with tables going extremely deep down. The guy in charge was very pleasant and helpful and we enjoyed listening to his enthusiasm for the dishes even though again we only made out the odd word here and there. There was just one young chef who we saw pop out on occasion, i was surprised how young he was given the quality of the food. Bravo!!!
I have decided i have over-eated and just know my stomach can not take one more bite of food or i might be very very ill!!- dinner has been cancelled despite being the place i was looking forward to most
I just know i cant risk it so will desparately try to re-arrange for another night when we can really enjoy it and are both feeling well again and not so overfed and on the verge of getting very ill!!) This reporting may need to be a part time job!!If i recover before midnight i might manage some of that delicious creamy parma ham and gorgonzola in the fridge- it would after all be a sin to waste these!!
May 25th, 2012, 10:01 AM
#54
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oh and should have said, apologies those expecting a report of La Botteghe, which we had wanted to visit after seeing it on "A place in the Sun".
We arrived less than 10 minutes early at about ten to one and were ignored by one man and then (politely at least but still) told to come back later in 8 or 9 minutes! Slightly annoyed me as the place was already all lit up and prepared and having seen how huge it was inside and not really like you would feel in sassi we decided to try somewhere else.
We arrived less than 10 minutes early at about ten to one and were ignored by one man and then (politely at least but still) told to come back later in 8 or 9 minutes! Slightly annoyed me as the place was already all lit up and prepared and having seen how huge it was inside and not really like you would feel in sassi we decided to try somewhere else.
May 25th, 2012, 11:49 AM
#55
HG - confession time - i wasn't really aware of what Sassi were so I had to google it.
CAVES!
I understand now.
shame about the indigestion - i don't know how the italians do it.
no probs about La Botteghe - if they didn't want you, we don't want them.
CAVES!
I understand now.
shame about the indigestion - i don't know how the italians do it.
no probs about La Botteghe - if they didn't want you, we don't want them.
May 25th, 2012, 11:56 AM
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haha, no neither do I..but they do have this huge 4 hour shut down period where they have a big lunch and then recover from it. Traditionally (I think) lunch is a bigger occasion than dinner. The good thing about it is that at about 12.45 loads of parking spaces become free although shops closed but restaurants don't so i am happy!!
yeah i think i only knew the term sassi since i planned the trip to Matera, which was only about 1hr45 from our base near Monopoli
Well said re La Botteghe thats kind of how we felt today. Glad though as the man at pico was so nice and helpful and did want us
although shops closed but restaurants don't so i am happy!!yeah i think i only knew the term sassi since i planned the trip to Matera, which was only about 1hr45 from our base near Monopoli
Well said re La Botteghe thats kind of how we felt today. Glad though as the man at pico was so nice and helpful and did want us
May 25th, 2012, 12:10 PM
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oh and i should have said, we had a reservation at la botteghe and told them when we arived but were still asked to come back in 8/9 minutes. It was the fact we can gone to trouble emailing to reserve etc etc and then just to be told to come back at the reserved time that annoyed me or i would not have minded all that much!
ok anger released!!
ok anger released!!
May 25th, 2012, 12:33 PM
#58
It was the fact we can gone to trouble emailing to reserve etc etc and then just to be told to come back at the reserved time that annoyed me or i would not have minded all that much!>>
yes, that would have peed me off too. redolent of an attitude that you exist for their benefit, not theirs for you. which does not auger well for a restaurant.
yes, that would have peed me off too. redolent of an attitude that you exist for their benefit, not theirs for you. which does not auger well for a restaurant.
May 26th, 2012, 06:36 AM
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Started the day with some gorgeous soft and light chocolate croissants from the bakery down the road (we felt bad always having savoury stuff for breakfast when the Italians like sweet pastries mostly) and then headed off to Martina Franca for lunch After travelling up through the hills and seeing lots of pretty trulli and catching a glimpse of pearly white locorotondo we reached the designer destination! This is certainly an upmarket town, apparently the rich flocked to for its position in the valle plateau where you could see panaramic views across Puglia. It was certainly grander than others places with a huge central Church and a tree lined promenade with and big arched entrance to the old town. Again very white but with more grandness, with big detailed doors and some upmarket clothes shops and little cafes. At12.00 the place was full of locals do their morning shop (their was even a parking attendant making sure the desire for a good spot was capitalised on!) Once more, as soon as you enter deeper into the narrow lanes, it becomes eerily quiet again, with little old ladies walking or children playing in the street. No tourists (except us!) and a real sense of what it is like to live here. I think it is this (probably not the case in july/august) that sets Puglia apart from the like of Tuscany- you really manage to get a feel for life here.
We eventually stumbled on our lunch destination after a frantic search for a farmacia (everything shuts at about 1pm!!)
http://www.cocopazzo.it/ in the old town
We were one of only two couples there (The other locals) and enjoyed the full attention of the chef/owner whom spoke excellent english and was very helpful in explaining all the antipasti on offer- he won us over and we went for antipasti for two followed by yet more pasta (we always have intentions of going for simple started and then secondi plat but the antipasti always tempts us and then we feel like a secondi plat would be too much!!)
Anyhow the antipasta was great as it has been everywhere, local cheese, tasty ham ham and raw pancetta (yummy and soft, really works) as well as flava bean puree on fried bread, artichoke(oh dear!) tempura (i actaully went back for more as the batter was so tatsy!), fresh burrata mozarella with cream bursting out from its centre, polpette in tomato sauce (a little bland), a very smooth and soft melt in mouth fish cappacio with pearl barly and a hint of lemon (seems to be a popular ingredient here)
Then on to my pasta....after my lunch occasion with the divine truffle pasta in Pogliano when i saw something similar (this time the stuffing was pumpkin and it was in a truffle butter) i had to go for it. After my first taste i said "Phenomenal!!!, this has done the impossible and blown the other one out the window", my parter tasted and agreed. It was delicious with a strange parmesan style suggary coating on the truffle butter, the butter with this coating was simply divine and more tangy then the other (which was amazing remember). However once i continued eating and as yummy and amazing the butter was and the thin pasta was as well as perfect texture it had the pumpkin stuffing wasn't nearly as good as the stuffing in pogligano and i changed my preference back to that one (partner disagreed). Don't get me wrong It was wonderful and every time i ate the sauce i was blown away but the other one as a whole had the edge as the stuffing was sublime too- i truly think this sauce/pasta with the other one's stuffing might possibly the most delicious creation ever made- they need to get together!!- genuinely components of both were truly stunning and i think together would be a masterpiece!! My partner had a tasty crepe stuffed with mozarella and roasted pepper, which too was very well executed with perfectly fine crepe, oozing mozarella and peppers which were very nice and sweet and bronzed from baking, but it came second to the pasta which was fab.
Enjoyed a tasty rose (puglia has great rose wines, i am not a rose wine drinker but very much enjoyed the one he recommended). One of our more pricey lunches at 61euros including two glasses of rose and un afe (plus some delicious little almont buiscuits with sugared nuts) but was very good, it had a nice terrace out front but it was far too quiet for that today-besides it started raining
Stopped on the way back at the local bakery to pick up some little cakes for later...............(if they last that long!)
We eventually stumbled on our lunch destination after a frantic search for a farmacia (everything shuts at about 1pm!!)
http://www.cocopazzo.it/ in the old town
We were one of only two couples there (The other locals) and enjoyed the full attention of the chef/owner whom spoke excellent english and was very helpful in explaining all the antipasti on offer- he won us over and we went for antipasti for two followed by yet more pasta (we always have intentions of going for simple started and then secondi plat but the antipasti always tempts us and then we feel like a secondi plat would be too much!!)
Anyhow the antipasta was great as it has been everywhere, local cheese, tasty ham ham and raw pancetta (yummy and soft, really works) as well as flava bean puree on fried bread, artichoke(oh dear!) tempura (i actaully went back for more as the batter was so tatsy!), fresh burrata mozarella with cream bursting out from its centre, polpette in tomato sauce (a little bland), a very smooth and soft melt in mouth fish cappacio with pearl barly and a hint of lemon (seems to be a popular ingredient here)
Then on to my pasta....after my lunch occasion with the divine truffle pasta in Pogliano when i saw something similar (this time the stuffing was pumpkin and it was in a truffle butter) i had to go for it. After my first taste i said "Phenomenal!!!, this has done the impossible and blown the other one out the window", my parter tasted and agreed. It was delicious with a strange parmesan style suggary coating on the truffle butter, the butter with this coating was simply divine and more tangy then the other (which was amazing remember). However once i continued eating and as yummy and amazing the butter was and the thin pasta was as well as perfect texture it had the pumpkin stuffing wasn't nearly as good as the stuffing in pogligano and i changed my preference back to that one (partner disagreed). Don't get me wrong It was wonderful and every time i ate the sauce i was blown away but the other one as a whole had the edge as the stuffing was sublime too- i truly think this sauce/pasta with the other one's stuffing might possibly the most delicious creation ever made- they need to get together!!- genuinely components of both were truly stunning and i think together would be a masterpiece!! My partner had a tasty crepe stuffed with mozarella and roasted pepper, which too was very well executed with perfectly fine crepe, oozing mozarella and peppers which were very nice and sweet and bronzed from baking, but it came second to the pasta which was fab.
Enjoyed a tasty rose (puglia has great rose wines, i am not a rose wine drinker but very much enjoyed the one he recommended). One of our more pricey lunches at 61euros including two glasses of rose and un afe (plus some delicious little almont buiscuits with sugared nuts) but was very good, it had a nice terrace out front but it was far too quiet for that today-besides it started raining
Stopped on the way back at the local bakery to pick up some little cakes for later...............(if they last that long!)
