StCirq

Jeanne: Tours to Poitiers to Limoges to Périgueux is the route to take. It will take a good 4 hours. And no, unfortunately, it's not a particularly scenic drive.

MaryC

Betty, sounds like you had a WONDERFUL time in France, even for a business trip. : ) Love your trip report.<BR><BR>One question: you received a "Fodor's" discount? Did you mention to them that you read about the Paris shuttle in one of the books or heard about it here and they offered a 2 euro discount?<BR><BR>Have you reported the Amboise section yet? I'm very interested. Would love to go there someday to visit da Vinci's grave/tomb/crypt.<BR><BR>prospec, sounds like Betty was in a different part of Paris than where the Familia resides (in the western 5th). It's not really in an area that you might happen to just pass it.<BR><BR>Betty, sounds like you enjoyed your time alone. It's very peaceful, isn't it?<BR><BR>I hope there's more????

chris

Mary send an e mail direct to Mark Harris - [email protected] - & mention that you discovered Parishuttle on Fodors & he will give you a discount.<BR>He's a very nice english guy ( we met him last month at a mini Fodor gathering ) can give good advice on hotels as well if you need it.

Linda

Dear Betty: Loved reading your trip report. Had a good laugh when you mentioned the shower doors at Hotel Muguet; they were narrow!! Would like to know more about the house you rented in La Tour d'Aigues: how did you find this rental? Do you have a website/address for the house? Thanks

Betty

To Hokeness: Yes, it can be done on the metro: From Gare de Lyon you would take line 10, direction Boulogne, transfer at La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle to line 8, direction Creteil, one stop to Ecole Militaire (or you could just hoof it from LMPG). BUT, I would do this only if I had a very manageable amount of luggage and it wasn't a rush-hour time on the metro. Otherwise, just take a taxi. I'd guess 8-10 &euro;<BR><BR>To Jeanne: I bow to StCirq's greater knowledge of the area concerning route to take from Tours to Perigueux.<BR><BR>To Mary: Chris is quite right about the way I got the Fodors discount from M. H. Reduced from 23&euro; to 21 &euro; (That's for a single, two or more riding together is less - I think 17-18 &euro I hope to do the Amboise and Dordogne sections this afternoon, but keep in mind, I was in Amboise less than 24 hours and in the Dordogne area only just over 24 hours. And yes, I really enjoyed the freedom and independence of traveling alone. I also think that it made it easier for me to meet and talk to French people.<BR><BR>A bientot!<BR><BR>

xxx

<BR><BR>MaryC, your comments to "prospec" are unfair. During Betty's stay she visited two hotels and one restaurant that are in fairly close proximity to the Familia. Prospec's question was fair.

Sue

Betty, so glad to happen upon your trip report--I have thought a lot about you recently, but couldn't remember when you were coming back. Sounds like a very productive trip. You're welcome for the SNCF help, and I see you went to the same SNCF boutique I did to pick up your tickets. I agree about second-class TGV; I got spoiled on Eurail passes (where you have to buy first-class) and so splurge on first-class when I travel now. I think I missed Nevil's trip report. Looking forward to hearing more.

kat

Bonjour Betty,<BR>what a lovely report - and from another francophile! I lived in France for 6 years and just reading your report makes me soooo nostalgic... need to go again soon! good luck for organizing your big big trip next year,<BR>salut,<BR>Kat

Betty

AMBOISE<BR><BR>After solving the “flashing red light” mystery, I set off for Amboise. Easy drive. About 2 hrs. later I arrived in A., crossed the river, just followed the “centre ville” signs, made a left turn when I thought I was at about the right place and stumbled upon Le Blason. Luckily, there is a large parking lot on the square just in front of the hotel and I found a spot a short distance away. Later that evening when the cars thinned out, I was able to move mine to a spot just in front of the hotel. I had made my reservations a few weeks earlier by e-mail and they were expecting me. My room was on the 2e &eacute;tage (3rd floor American) and there was no elevator, but the view was worth the climb. Looking out my window over the hotel restaurant and rooftops of Amboise, the entire castle was visible. There was no AC but there was a fan that kept the room comfortable. I did a little laundry, showered and rested before dinner.<BR><BR>I was on the demi-pension plan (half-board) so had dinner at the Hotel. Dinner was delicious: Pannequet de Jambon et Fromage St. Maure (little cakes of ham and St. Maure goat cheese with salad of greens and beets), Civet de lapin (rabbit cooked in wine) with au gratin potatoes and a wonderfully light dessert – sorry, don’t remember the name – of whipped fromage blanc (cheese) served with a raspberry coulis, ½ bottle of Evian – all this from their 14,30 &euro; menu. Wonderful!<BR><BR>Over dinner I got talking to another woman, about my age, eating alone, who was seated near me. I could tell by the way the waitress spoke to her that she must have been there for some time. I found out that she was German and was just finishing up a three-week course in French at the EuroCentre language school just up the street. Since my German is non-existent we continued to speak French. (I found out the next day that she was an English teacher in Germany but wanted to practice her French with me! And her French was quite good.) That evening we walked around town together for a while. There are a couple of pedestrian streets near the ch&acirc;teau that were still quite lively around 10-11 pm. Back at the hotel, we chatted for a bit with the nice lady at the front desk who told us that Rick Steves had just been by the week before. (I had to explain to my German friend who he was.) She had nothing but good things to say about him: thought he was handsome, conscientious, hard working and extremely nice. <BR><BR>Back in my room I heard music and realized that I was hearing the Renaissance “spectacle” at the ch&acirc;teau. I had thought about reserving tickets for this in advance, but I’m kind of glad I didn’t. It didn’t start until about 10:30 pm and finished up around midnight – not sure I could have lasted. From my room I could clearly hear the music and some of the spoken words, though not clearly enough to understand. And near the end, I got a free fireworks show!<BR>

Betty

AMBOISE (cont.)<BR><BR>The next morning Ann-Margaret (sp?) and I had breakfast together and then said good-bye. She was off to take her exam at the EuroCentre. I decided to walk to Clos-Luc&eacute; and since I was passing by the EuroCentre, went in and picked up a brochure, in case anyone I know would be interested. (It’s in the box of materials I mailed from Pertuis, so I can tell anyone who is interested more about it when that arrives, hopefully by the end of this week.) The walk was a bit longer than I had thought – took about 30-40 minutes, but I got there just after it opened. Glad I did, since by the time I left it was pretty crowded. The living areas were quite nice with period furniture, but the really interesting part is in the basement where they have models of many of Da Vinci’s inventions: movable bridges, a battle tank, a catapult, a helicopter, a parachute, so many things that were centuries ahead of their time. Really fascinating.<BR><BR>Back at the hotel I called the ch&acirc;teau-hotel where I hope my group can stay next year to ask if I could come by and have a look. I didn’t stay there because they were closed to give their staff some time off but the owner said I was welcome to stop by. After a few errands in Amboise (picked up a sandwich for lunch) I set off. Now, I must apologize. I am not going to reveal the name of the ch&acirc;teau, since it only has a few rooms and I may well need them all next June. I would hate to call later on and find that one or two rooms had already been rented to other Fodorites. As soon as my plans are set I will be glad to tell you the name. Until then, I hope you understand.<BR><BR>The ch&acirc;teau was a bit hard to find and I didn’t get there until around 1:30 pm. I pulled up to an iron gate and was about to get out of the car when the gate magically opened for me. I found out later that there is a camera on it. I drove through woods on a winding road, with ch&acirc;teau ruins on either side. After about a half-mile I arrived at the ch&acirc;teau. From my approach, it looked more like a manor house, with half-timbers. The other side was more ch&acirc;teau-like. I thought I would be there 15 minutes or so, but it took more like an hour, as “Monsieur” insisted on showing me the whole place and then took me back to his office to show me his website. (I told him I had already seen it, but he seemed so proud of it!) The rooms were really nice with canopied beds and beautiful fabrics, and each with a private bathroom. I really hope we can stay here. As I was leaving the owner said that if I had more people than he could accommodate, his friend, the “countess,” just down the road, could probably take the overflow! I was really thrown behind schedule by this visit but I wouldn’t have missed it for the world. Finally got away around 2:30 pm and headed for the Dordogne. <BR>Single room at Le Blason, demi-pension: 56 &euro; <BR>

Betty

Hi, Sue! Thanks again for your help with the SNCF site and also the recommendation for Le Blason. As you can see from my last post, I really enjoyed my short stay there.<BR><BR>And kat, glad you are enjoying my report. How lucky you are to have been able to spend 6 years in France! And thanks for the good wishes.

Wendy

Betty, I really enjoyed your trip report! Thank you.<BR><BR>And to prospec I have stayed at the Familia, I'm happy to answer any questions.<BR><BR>Wendy

Betty

Sorry, Linda, I somehow missed seeing your post earlier. (Glad to know I'm not the only one who had a problem with those shower doors!) I rented my house in La Tour d'Aigues through this site:<BR>http://www.provence-luberon.net/<BR>I was very late starting my search for a rental property. By the time I got an affirmative response on this one, I had had at least 40 responses saying "Sorry, but not available that week." So I pretty much grabbed it. It's listed under Houses for 2-4 and the owners' name is Piechaczek. (Never did quite learn how to pronounce that one!) Not a fancy place by any means, but it was fine for me. The site is in French only and you need to call or write the owners to book, so if you need some help, let me know. I'll have more to say about the house when I get to my section on Provence.<BR><BR>Sorry I didn't get to post any more today. I'll try again tomorrow.

kavey

Have enjoyed your report very much - thank you.<BR>Kavey

Sue

Betty, what an interesting trip and report! I am so impressed by the way you just zip all over France by yourself in a car! I've never done it alone, but you make it sound like a breeze, and very enjoyable.<BR><BR>Couple of digressions: have you ever checked out Hotel du Lys, on rue Serpente, in 6th? It's my favorite little budget--93 euro, inc. very good continental breakfast, for a single this past May.<BR><BR>Also, I like the Bistrot de Breteuil, altho have not been there in a few yrs. I'm eager to try some of the others you mentioned.<BR><BR>Sue (Pgh.)<BR><BR>

Betty

Thanks, Kavey. I have enjoyed your trip reports, too, during the year+ since I've been visiting this site.<BR><BR>And thank you, Sue, for your kind words. I'm afraid I don't know the Hotel du Lys. Another place to check out on my next visit to Paris.<BR><BR>DORDOGNE<BR><BR>Fairly long drive south by way of Loches, Ch&acirc;teauroux (picked up autoroute here), Limoges, Brive and exit at Souillac. Ran into some pretty heavy rain between Limoges and Brive. BTW, French autoroutes, at least the one I was on, have a speed limit of 130 kph in good weather, 110 kph in rain. I was one of the few paying any attention to them. Got to the Souillac exit about 7 pm. I had a bit of a hard time finding my B&B from the directions I was given. Not sure if it was bad directions or my ineptitude, but I finally arrived around 7:40 pm as they were all having ap&eacute;ritifs. (I had called to let them know I was running late.)<BR><BR>Time for another apology. For the same reason as I stated above I am not revealing the name of my B&B or its precise location. It was near Gourdon and was run by an English/Dutch couple, who apparently do everything themselves, including preparing gourmet dinners for the guests. It is actually a working farm, with geese and cows. Everyone eats at the same table family style. The first night, after ap&eacute;ritifs, we had soup, salad, pork roast w/vegs, cheese and dessert. All the guests were English speakers (English, Irish, Scots) and dinner conversation was lively. Got some recommendations for good historical fiction books. I was ready for bed after dinner. My room was very comfortable, with private bath (shower) and enough room for two.<BR><BR>Breakfast next morning was at 8:30. Did a little laundry and set off around 10:00 for Sarlat. Found a good free parking lot fairly near the old town, thanks to the owners of my B&B. Walked about there a bit, listened to some Russian musicians/singers playing near the church who were very good, took some pictures. By the time I left, around 11:30 Sarlat was crawling with tourists. I bought a picnic lunch, then set out for the hills above Sarlat. Stopped near Ste. Nathal&egrave;ne at the Moulin de la Tour, a walnut oil mill. Interesting, but very hot. (They must cook the crushed walnuts to extract the oil.) I’m afraid I missed some of the explanation since I had to get out of the heat from time to time. Bought some “Confiture Extra de Noix Vertes” (green walnut jam). <BR>

Betty

DORDOGNE (cont.)<BR><BR>That afternoon I visited the Hotel de la Pag&eacute;zie in the hills above Sarlat, which was nice, but a bit new for my tastes – built in the ‘80’s. Drove around a little more and got kind of lost in the small roads, but that was fun, too. You will eventually come out somewhere! Around 4:00 I set off for Gourdon and found the Hostellerie de la Bouriane without much trouble. A very nice place and Mathias at the front desk could not have been nicer. He must have shown me at least a dozen rooms. Said that a lot of people requested room #13 because it has such a nice view of the town. Also said that some of the crew who filmed the Drew Barrymore movie “Ever After” stayed at the Bouriane. Rates are very reasonable. (I can provide details if anyone is interested.) If we are too many for the B&B next June, I think this would be a good place to stay.<BR><BR>Headed back to my B&B, stopped to get gas and cash to pay my hosts. (They don’t take credit cards.) Arrived again just in time for dinner. Some people had left; others had arrived. Another wonderful meal, this time in the courtyard: soup, salad w/homemade p&acirc;t&eacute;, boeuf en daube, cheese, tiramisu. Another English couple and their son, who are caretakers of a nearby g&icirc;te and friends of the B&B owners, joined us for dinner. Settled my bill – no surprises – since I was heading out early the next morning for my long drive to Provence.<BR>

Jeannie

Hi Betty...great report. We'll be in Paris soon and we'll be picking up our rental - Renault Megane diesel. Definitely want to try Le Petit Chaise..thanks for the tip. We have a question for your regarding the Megane and luggage space..did you have any problems getting your luggage in the trunk..was it large or carry-one size? We're asking because we are meeting another couple over there, and altho we pack light, I don't know about them..and I have visions of that opening scene from the "Beverley Hillbillies"...complete with Granny on top! We will be visiting Provence and Cote d'Azure using rental units we found on the website..if you like, in preparation for your trip next year, I can give you a running review..Like you, we enjoy good restaurants, cooking at "home" and picnics...soooo.<BR> Any info or advice on the luggage situation would be most appreciated...Merci beaucoup

Betty

Hi, Jeannie. Glad you've found my report helpful. I found the Renault Megane to be very roomy, but then, I was traveling alone. I wish I had actually measured the trunk, but didn't think to do that while I was there. My two pieces - a 22" rollaboard and similar sized satchel fit with lots of room to spare. I would guess that I could have put 4 medium sized bags or 6 of my size in there with no trouble. I think it would comfortably accommodate 4 people with luggage if they pack fairly light.<BR><BR>I would love to hear about all your adventures, especially about house rentals and restaurants in Provence. You can post here or, if you like, e-mail me. Just substitute "charter.net" for "home.com" in the address above.

Betty

THE LONGEST DAY (DORDOGNE TO PROVENCE)<BR><BR>Got away about 8:15 after a quick cup of coffee with my hosts. The first portion of my drive went by fairly quickly, stopped near Rodez to have more coffee and a pain au chocolat and to call Mme. Piechaczek in La Tour d’Aigues. (I had called from Gourdon the day before, but got no answer.) We agreed that I would call her from the Post Office when I arrived in La Tour. Stopped again in S&eacute;verac-le-Ch&acirc;teau to buy picnic supplies, then a short drive N. on the A75 to the Mende exit. Seeing how smoothly traffic was flowing both ways on the A75 made me wonder if I should have taken it south to the A9, but who knows? - there could have been traffic jams just a few miles south of there. And I had been warned about Millau, so I went ahead into the C&eacute;vennes. Stopped and had my picnic at a nice spot just beyond Mende. <BR><BR>Here is where things began to really slow down. Twisting mountain roads required strict attention and gave no opportunity to pass slower vehicles. Had a rather bad scare when an impatient driver coming from the other direction tried it anyway. He barely got back over in time to avoid hitting me head on. By the time I reached the highest peak (Col de something or other?) I was ready for a coffee, bathroom and Whew! break. Shoulders very tense. The rest of the way to Al&egrave;s was a little better but I ran into my first real traffic jam there. I stayed in first gear (or put it in neutral to give my left leg a break) all the way through the town. Probably lost a good hour there.<BR>Stopped again in Uz&egrave;s for something to drink and got some advice from the waiter that I would probably be better off to skirt around Avignon through Beaucaire, Tarascon and St. R&eacute;my to Cavaillon. Somewhere around St. R&eacute;my I began to hear a noise, so I turned off the radio and opened the window. Ah! the cigales are welcoming me to Provence! And I could smell the lavender in the air. Oh, yes, the long drive is worth it!<BR><BR>Another brief tie-up around Cavaillon, and on to the D973, past M&eacute;rindol, Lauris and Cadenet to Pertuis. (Nice scenery!) Here I see my first sign for La Tour d’Aigues – only 5 km. By the time I pull into the Post Office in La Tour, it’s about 7:45 pm. I call Mme. Piechaczek, apologize for interrupting at dinnertime. She is very nice about it, comes to lead me to my little house – “home” for the next seven days.<BR>