Betty

First, thanks to all who helped me plan this trip. It was rather spur-of-the-moment for me – started planning in late May for a late July departure. I couldn’t have done it without Fodors and the Internet. My purpose in going was to plan for a group trip next June, so I spent most of my time checking out hotels, B&B’s and houses for rent, plus the occasional restaurant. Not much tourist-type activity. This was the first time I have gone to France totally alone and, I must say, I really enjoyed the freedom of the experience. Since I speak French well, it was easy for me to strike up conversations with people so I never felt too lonely.<BR><BR>In this first post I will give a brief overview of my trip. If that is enough for you, you can stop there. Following posts will be for real Francophiles and those who enjoy the details.<BR><BR>July 28 – Left GSP (SC) for Chicago for a 7:30 pm departure on AA. (Got a great fare through the American Association of Teachers of French.) Plane delayed over an hour, but just made my flight out of Chicago with a mad dash from one gate to the other. Plane took off 5-10 minutes after I boarded!<BR><BR>July 29-30 – Arrived CDG right on time, called for my Parishuttle, was at Hotel Muguet within the hour. Checked out a couple of other hotels, dined at La Croque au Sel (next door to La Fontaine de Mars) and Chantairelle. (Really liked the latter.)<BR><BR>July 31 – Train to Chartres, picked up my Renault M&eacute;gane (straight drive, diesel, AC) at Hertz office (arranged through AutoEurope), drove to Amboise. Spent night at Le Blason.<BR><BR>Aug 1-2 – Went to Clos Luc&eacute;. (Fascinating!) Checked out a chateau-hotel just south of Tours, then headed for the Dordogne. Spent 2 nights at a B&B near Gourdon on demi-pension plan run by a Dutch/English couple. Wonderful dinners. Checked out Hotel de la Pag&eacute;zie near Sarlat and Hotel de la Bouriane in Gourdon.<BR><BR>Aug 3-10 – LONG drive from Dordogne to Provence. I purposely avoided the autoroutes, going through Figeac, Rodez, S&eacute;verac-le-Ch&acirc;teau, Mende, Al&egrave;s, Uz&egrave;s, skirted around Avignon by way of Tarascon and St. R&eacute;my to Cavaillon and finally to my little village in the Lub&eacute;ron, La Tour d’Aigues. With 3-4 coffee/bathroom/picnic stops, it took close to 12 hours, but with the exception of about an hour’s tie-up in Al&egrave;s, at least I kept moving. I heard later that there were long traffic jams on the autoroutes, so I think I made the right decision. Got into my little rental house in the village around 8 pm. Loved having my own place for a week. Living/dining/kitchen (one room) downstairs, bedroom/bathroom upstairs – 274 &euro; for the week. (We’ll see if that comes out as a euro symbol when I paste from Word to Fodors Forum.) Spent the week driving all over the Lub&eacute;ron, trying to check out house rental possibilities for next June. Not as easy as I’d hoped it would be, since most of the houses were rented and I couldn’t have a look inside (I was able to see inside one), but at least I could drive by, have a look at the outside, get a sense of the location. And I really feel like I know that mountain now! Also got a number of leads to check out later. What a beautiful part of France this is!<BR>

Betty

Continuing...<BR><BR>Aug 10-11 – Turned in car in Avignon, took TGV back to Paris, taxi to Hotel R&eacute;sidence Monge in the 5th. Met up with some friends who arrived in Paris on the 10th, had dinners at La Petite Chaise (an old favorite) and Le Bistrot de Breteuil. Both very good but I liked the service at LPC better. Went to mass at Notre Dame Sunday morning, very moving in spite of all the tourists milling about. Checked out the Hotel des Grandes Ecoles: looks wonderful as long as you don’t need AC and the walk up from Cardinal Lemoine metro stop is not THAT difficult. I’m 57, overweight and out of shape, so I’m sure if I can do it, anyone can!<BR><BR>Aug 12 – Parishuttle arrived on time (I had called the previous day to confirm), got to CDG 2 hours before flight time. No problem with check-in or security – even with a long walk to my gate, I was there within a half-hour of arrival at CDG. A little last minute shopping for a friend, flight boarded and left on time. Sat next to a French plastic surgeon on the flight home, so I got to speak French for a few more hours! 3 hour layover in Dallas and then home to GSP. By the time I got to my house I had been awake close to 24 hours.<BR><BR>All in all, a great trip. I kept waiting for something to go wrong, but it never did! My only regret is that I didn’t plan for another week in Provence. Of course I haven't got my bills yet, so I could have an ugly surprise there. Let’s hope not. I did have one little mishap – while rushing to mail a package in Pertuis before driving back to Avignon to get the TGV back to Paris, I didn’t see a slight rise in the sidewalk and went splat! on my knees and elbows. Nice woman helped me up, made sure I was OK. Just a couple of scrapes, though. It could have been a lot worse! <BR><BR>Sorry this is not quite as “brief” as I meant it to be. It’s hard to condense and still include what I hope to be useful info. <BR><BR><BR>

Betty

FLIGHT, AIRPORTS, PARISHUTTLE<BR><BR>Flew AA from my hometown to Chicago to Paris CDG. Except for the delay leaving my hometown, flights were on time and uneventful. AA claims to have added a little extra room between seats – not so you would notice and I’m only 5’ 2”. Flight over was fine except for a bunch of chatty French teenagers that kept going all night. Food edible. No seat-back screens going over. Coming home, went through Dallas. This flight did have the seat-back screens. Again, food OK. <BR><BR>Airport security was minimal. I was never even “wanded.” The only thing I noticed that was anything more than pre- 9/11 was that they put my carry-on through an extra screening as I left SC. Coming back I sailed through immigration and customs even though I had admitted to having some “food” with me – jams, coffee, cookies. Baggage showed up promptly at both ends. <BR><BR>Parishuttle worked well both ways. I got my Fodors discount of 2 &euro; (yippee!) Going in to Paris we dropped some others at Terminal 1, another lady at a hotel near mine and then me. Leaving there was a large group of Americans that he picked up after me and dropped at United before me, but I still made it with time to spare. I had a 7:45 am pick-up for a 10:55 am flight.<BR>

Betty

PARIS HOTELS<BR><BR>Booked my hotels, Hotel Muguet and Hotel Residence Monge by e-mail, took copies with me in case of any problem – there was none. Even was allowed into my room at the Muguet shortly after noon. Mme. Bonnet at front desk was a bit on the brusque side, but warmed up a bit later. The owner, whose name I’ve forgotten, (darn it!) was much friendlier. The next day Mme. Bonnet showed me some other rooms in case my group wanted to stay there next June. My single room was small as was the bathroom, but I’ve had smaller, and they were spotlessly clean. Shower with glass door that only opened part way. It’s a good thing I lost a few pounds before I left, otherwise I’m not sure I would have fit! Honestly, the opening could not have been more than about 12 inches. Breakfast was good. In addition to the usual, I could have had cheese, fruit, cereal and even a boiled egg. I didn’t choose to have those, so don’t know if they might have been extra. There was a small courtyard where you could take your tray if you liked. Location was excellent: easy walking distance to Rue Cler and Ecole Militaire metro. Single room at Muguet: 83 &euro; night; breakfast 7,20 &euro;<BR>The Hotel Residence Monge was very nearly as nice. Room comparable size, bathroom a bit larger. Had a nice view of the Ar&egrave;nes de Lut&egrave;ce. I was on the 6th floor, room no. 66. No. 61 was also on the back with similar view. On the lower floors the arrangement was the same: 51 & 56, 41 & 46, etc. would overlook the Ar&egrave;nes. Room also had a fridge that I almost didn’t see; it looked like part of the desk! Again a small shower stall with an attacking cloth curtain (you know, the kind that keeps sticking to you). One oddity I haven’t run into elsewhere: in order for the hair dryer to work, you had to have the light on in the bathroom. Again, good location on the rue Monge, a block from Cardinal Lemoine metro. Lots of caf&eacute;s, ATM’s, phone booths, even a Mail Boxes, Etc. (Boites Postales) nearby. Walking distance to Boulevard St. Michel, Notre Dame, Panth&eacute;on, etc. Small negatives: tiny elevator, somewhat less for breakfast, though they had cheese & yogurt and you could pay extra for orange juice. Desk clerk Julie seemed rather standoffish at first but warmed up later. Sunday morning when I asked her about the hours for mass at ND she asked softly if I would do her a favor. I, of course, said I would. She handed me a 2 &euro; coin from behind the desk and asked if I would light a candle and say a prayer for her, as she did not have time to go to mass that morning. I was very touched by her trusting me to do that. Later when I asked for some maps for a French teacher friend, she handed me a huge stack. I had to tell her I didn’t have room for that many! She even helped me with my luggage when the van came to pick me up. Single room at H. Monge: 79 &euro; night ; breakfast 6,10 &euro;<BR>Both hotels have AC.<BR>

Betty

PARIS HOTELS (cont.)<BR><BR>I also had a look at rooms in the Relais Bosquet: nice d&eacute;cor, somewhat larger rooms, may be worth the higher price; and the Grand Hotel L&eacute;v&ecirc;que, a bit shabbier, but not bad. Desk clerk said they normally didn’t take “groups.” (But we could probably work something out!) When I asked the reasoning behind this policy, she explained that if a “group” cancelled, they could be stuck with several unrented rooms. (Not sure I buy that.) Poked my head in at the Hotel du Cadran, but my timing was wrong to see the rooms. The lobby was very attractive and desk clerk very friendly. Did the same later at the Agora St. Germain where they also had a policy not to take groups. I learned not to use that word before I got to the Grandes Ecoles. There I just spoke about “some friends.” My friends stayed at the Villa des Artistes on the border between the 6th and the 14th and liked it very much, especially the breakfast buffet.

Betty

TRAINS AND CAR RENTAL<BR><BR>I ordered my train tickets before I left from the SNCF site using my credit card and indicating I would pick them up there. Paris – Chartres 11,40 &euro; , Avignon-Paris TGV 56 &euro; (J8 advance purchase, J30 was already sold out for my date). I was able to pick up both tickets at the SNCF boutique at 78 rue St. Dominique near rue Cler my first day in Paris, showing the same CC and my confirmation e-mails from SNCF. (A big thank you to Sue W for helping me deal with the SNCF site.) Very easy. Paris to Chartres was about an hour. I left on a Weds. and had the whole car to myself!<BR><BR>When I arrived in Chartres, I took a taxi to the Hertz office a short distance away to pick up my Renault M&eacute;gane – manual, diesel, AC – just what I had ordered. Took about a half-hour. I had originally planned to pick up the car at the station (Europcar) but the lady at AutoEurope said she could only guarantee me a diesel if I got it from Hertz. The little extra time and effort were worth it. A quick run-through of operation of the car and I was off. I do wish they had told me about the “anti-d&eacute;marrage” light on the dashboard. After I had parked the car in the underground lot near the cathedral, a little red light near the speedometer started blinking. On one side of it, it said, “STOP” and on the other “SERV.” I had no idea what this meant, but I went on to the cathedral and then decided I’d better find out before leaving Chartres. I finally got the number of the office from a nice caf&eacute; owner who looked it up for me, since the one on my papers was wrong! But by the time I called it was after noon and the office was closed until 2 pm. Eventually it dawned on me that I could check the manual. Turns out that it is just an indicator that the anti-theft system is working! Apparently, the car cannot be “hotwired” or started without the key. Wish I had known that earlier. Anyway, the car was fine and I got used to driving a manual again pretty quickly. Only problem with the car – the AC was near useless when the temps got above 90 or so, just blew hot air!<BR><BR>I was very glad that I had insisted on a diesel because there was quite a difference in price and it got great mileage. I drove from Chartres to Amboise, to the Dordogne, to Provence and all over the Lub&eacute;ron in 10 days and only filled up 3 times (actually about ¾ of a tank each time, since I didn’t let it get too low). Diesel at the big shopping centers was about 0,78 &euro; per liter but I saw prices up to 0, 85 &euro; Regular gas ran about 1,10 – 1,15 &euro; I spent an average of 25 &euro; per fill-up or about 75&euro; total, the last just before turning in the car in Avignon. The car rental was just under 300 &euro; for the 10 days. <BR><BR>Finding the TGV station in Avignon was not too difficult, though I only saw one sign, saying “Gare TGV – suivre (follow) direction Courtine.” As I was approaching from the east, I took the ring road (“Rocade”) on the south toward Courtine and finally an exit marked “Gare TGV.” Signs directed me to Parking 3 for car rentals. Parked the car, took out my luggage, turned in the key and that was that. No one even looked at the car. (Maybe I should have insisted that they do so, to verify that I did not have any dents or scrapes? I guess I’ll know when I get my final bill.)<BR>

Betty

TRAINS AND CAR RENTAL (cont.)<BR><BR>Since car rental return was just in front of the main entrance to the station, it was an easy walk. Got a sandwich, talked to some nice New Zealanders, and boarded the train nearly on time (it was about 5 mins. late). BTW it is easy to locate your car with the sign posted on the lower level that shows where it is in the lineup and gives a letter “r&eacute;p&egrave;re” that shows you where you should be on the quai to board that car. <BR><BR>I was not overly impressed with the second class car on the TGV. Carpet was fairly dirty, aisles were narrow, and seats were pretty cramped. There were, however, three sections on each side with four seats facing each other where I guess there was a little more legroom. The rest of the seats faced forward and were much like airplane seats, with a tray on the back of the seat in front. I was lucky to have a space behind my seat where I could put my luggage. Although I smoke, I had taken a non-smoking car and I am glad I did. About half way to Paris I went to a smoking car to have a cigarette and the air was so thick with smoke that even I wanted out of there as soon as possible. If cigarette smoke bothers you at all, you want to make sure you have a non-smoking car.<BR><BR>We got to Paris Gare de Lyon right on time, 2 hrs. 40 mins after leaving Avignon. I had a pretty long walk to the station from my car, so when I got to the taxi stand outside there was a long line. But it moved very quickly and I was at my hotel in the Latin Quarter in short order.<BR>

Betty

FOOD<BR><BR>In Paris and elsewhere I took breakfast at the hotel just because I find that easier. For lunch I ate at caf&eacute;s or picnicked. Caf&eacute; lunches (Salade nicoise or other salade compos&eacute;e or omelette & salade or moules & frites plus a beer, a glass of wine or mineral water – I drank lots of mineral water to prevent dehydration in the heat) ran 12 –17 &euro; . Picnic supplies for one (typically a couple slices of ham, salad from the charcuterie, tomato, cheese, bread) could be had for 5 –6 &euro; . <BR><BR>For dinners in Paris I ate at La Croque au Sel on rue St. Dominique next door to La Fontaine de Mars, which was just a bit above my tight budget. Once the drunken (?) waiter sorted out our orders (the ladies next to me had to ask for a bottle of mineral water three times – he tried to give it to me) I enjoyed the meal: salad with chicken livers, braised veal with vegs., ile flottante and ½ bottle of Evian – about 18 &euro; . <BR><BR>Dinner at Chantairelle, 17 rue Laplace, was a bit of a splurge for me but was excellent: the house aperitif was delicious, a combo of white wine and blueberry syrup; salade du B&eacute;al (greens, goat cheese on rounds of country bread, mushrooms, and blueberries); tarte haute (a sort of tall quiche with cheese and zucchini served with smoked salmon and lettuce); millard aux myrtilles (sort of blueberry tart); a glass of red wine; coffee – all for 33,50 &euro; . I went by at lunchtime and reserved for dinner. Ate in the very pleasant courtyard although rain was threatening. We lucked out – no rain.<BR><BR> La Petite Chaise, 36 rue de Grenelle, is supposed to be one of, if not the, oldest restaurant in Paris. I first ate there about 25 years ago. On this trip I went there with a couple of friends on Sat. night and we really enjoyed it. We all had the 29 &euro; menu with 3 courses. (Could have had 2 courses for 24 &euro I had escargots, salmon, and chocolate cake. My friends had the duck and the beef brochette. All were very good (we shared bites!) Good service. I had reserved for us about 2 weeks earlier.<BR><BR>Sunday night we ate at Le Bistrot de Breteuil, 3 place de Breteuil. Again, I had reserved two weeks before. The 29 &euro; menu (I think that’s right, forgot to write this one down) is a good deal including aperitif, 3 courses and a bottle of wine for two. The food was good but I was slightly disappointed. My friends, who arrived before me, ordered beers, which they were charged extra for without being told that an aperitif was included – OK, not a serious breach. We all ordered lamb chops. I found the serving a bit skimpy and all were over-cooked. We ordered “&agrave; point” knowing that the French tend to cook less than we do, expecting to get something like “medium rare.” Perhaps they adjusted their cooking knowing that we were Americans and cooked them to what I would call “well done.” Only one serving was still slightly pink in the middle. And finally one of my friends was served coffee in a very cracked cup, which they replaced when she asked. None of these small disappointments would cause me not to recommend the restaurant.<BR>

Betty

FOOD (Cont.)<BR><BR>In Amboise and the Dordogne I was on a demi-pension plan and so had dinner at my hotel/B&B. I will include info about those later.<BR><BR>In Provence I was self-catering so mostly I cooked at home. Had one dinner out at the Hotel Restaurant de l’Etang in Cucuron. Escargots, lamb, strawberries from 24,40 &euro; menu. Not the best I ever had: escargots and lamb were a bit tough, strawberries a bit overripe. Can’t really recommend it, though the setting beside the pool in Cucuron was nice. I tried to time it so that I could be home before dark, but it didn’t work. Cucuron to La Tour d’Aigues should have only been a 15-20 minute drive, but I got a bit lost on the tiny mountain roads (it seems all roads lead to everywhere!) It didn’t help that I either couldn’t find the high beams or they were not very effective. I was very glad to see my little house in La Tour and decided there would be no more nighttime excursions!<BR><BR>OK, it’s obvious that I adhere to the “There’s no such thing as too much information” school of thought. But I am writing this as much for myself as for anyone else and don’t want to forget any details that might be important to me later. Feel free to skip anything that doesn’t interest you. Other parts to come: Amboise, Dordogne, Clothes and packing, Using cell phone in France, Self-catering and house hunting in the Lub&eacute;ron, and maybe a few other tidbits. In the meantime, questions are welcome.<BR>

prospec

Betty, I love your trip report; in your look at various hotels, did you by chance pass by the Familia in the Latin Quarter? I'm considering it for my trip next year. There have been many favorable, but some unfavorable, comments about it on this forum. Just wondering.

Betty

Sorry, "prospec," as far as I know, I did not even walk by the Familia, so can't tell you anything about it. I did pass by a few others that I recognized from Fodors posts, but the only ones I took a look at are the ones mentioned above.

prospec

Thanks.

Paule

Betty,<BR>Thank you for a wonderful report! I love all the details, no apologies needed! <BR><BR>I'll also be going next year, and am especially interested in hearing your experience in the Dordogne, however brief.<BR>

Paula

Betty, I am really enjoying your wonderful trip report - particularly, the details of your Paris meals - thank-you!

StCirq

Thanks for the reports, Betty. Only two days in the Dordogne (and not even in the Dordogne proper)? Boo hoo! Did you enjoy the Bouriane in Gourdon?

Betty

I know! I know! It was all way too fast, especially Paris, Amboise and Dordogne. But it was more "business" than "pleasure," checking out places to stay for next June. I managed to see what I needed to, but I would have liked to have more time everywhere. I just didn't think I could afford more than two weeks - penny wise and pound foolish maybe? Thanks, St. Cirq, for recommending la Bouriane. I did get to see lots of rooms there - a lovely place. More on that later. And to the others, thanks for the kind comments. I'll try to do some more tomorrow.

jeanne

Oh, Betty! Your trip sounds like a dream! We're going in Oct. and I think we're going to pick up our car in Chartres, so this information is very helpful. <BR><BR>You don't give the drive time to the Dordogne. Can we plan to drive from Tours area to Perigeaux area in a reasonable day's drive? Pretty drive?

TOP

ttt

Betty

Good morning, Jeanne. Sorry I didn't see your question last night. (You either stay up later than I do or live somewhere west of me!)<BR><BR>I think Chartres was a very good place to pick up the car - short and cheap train ride from Paris and easy to get out of.<BR><BR>I left the Tours area around 2- 2:30 pm and arrived in the Dordogne area (Souillac exit)around 7 pm. So for me it was about 4-5 hrs., but I drive pretty slowly compared to most - top speed of 125-130kph even on the autroutes, and I ran into some pretty heavy rain between Limoges and Brive that probably slowed me down as well. I took the national route toward Loches and picked up the autoroute near Chateauroux, then straight down to Souillac. Since you are going to Perigueux, which is a bit NW of where I was, you might take that route and get off at Brive or even Limoges. Or it might be better to go from Tours to Poitiers to Angouleme to Perigueux. Either way, I imagine you could do it in around 4 hrs. My route was not particularly pretty. If you have the time, I'd advise you to stay off the autoroutes. October should be beautiful around there with far fewer tourists.I wish you a great trip!

hokeness

Really enjoyed your "report", Betty. We will be doing almost the same trip in October. Will go right to the Loire from CDG, tho, and spend 5 days in Paris at the end of our trip. Two days in Loire, 7 in Dordogne and 7 in Provence. Will spend a night in la Malene on the way to Provence. We are also taking the TGV from Avignon to Paris. My question...how do we get from Gare de Lyon in Paris to our hotel in 7th? (Champ de Mar). Thought we could take the Metro..possible? Thanks for any help and keep posting! Marie