I just returned from a weeks stay in England - London mainly, with a one day jaunt to Paris via the Eurostar.

I traveled with my wife, my sister, and my brother-in-law. We went from Denver to London Heathrow with a change in Chicago. We flew United Airlines business class and it was wonderful. Great seating and videos, the food was good for airline food, and the service was nice. It was my first time traveling anything other than coach class, and the seating was nice for sleeping.

We got into Heathrow on a Sunday morning about 8:15. Customs was easy and Ray Skinner was waiting for us with my name on his sign. He was cheerful, loaded up a minivan with far too much luggage, and then wisked us to the Marriott County Hall Hotel in London. I highly recommed Ray Skinner and his service. I know that Swiss Cottages also provides transport services, but I liked the personal treatment from Ray. He showed us around on the way, pointed out landmarks, and told us some good intial information. He was funny and the ride was well worth it - 4 full sized people, 4 27" wheeled bags, two toiletry bags, and two backpacks. Total cost - 59 pounds, not including tip. I know that I could have used the mass transit, but with the bags, what a hassle it would have been. After riding the tube and busses for days, I can tell you to EXPECT stairs. We also used Ray later in the week to take us back to a rental car office near Heathrow.

The weather was HOT and very very HUMID. We took all kinds of clothes ranging from cooler wear to shorts and t-shirts. We should have taken shorts and t-shirts for the whole trip, it was so hot! Mass transit - the buses and tubes are not air conditioned, and after wearing something as cool as a cotton button downed shirt and chinos, I felt like I had melted each day. And don't worry about dressing like an American. London was really casual, and the British tend to dress as we do - yes even in shorts and sneakers (trainers). One style I saw all over was a habit for men (20 - 45) to shave their heads, wear no shirts, and have loads of tatoos on their arms - what a look. Anyway, don't be ashamed to wear your shorts and white trainers. Also, I saw less Americans there than French, German, Italian, and asian travelers. Dress to have fun.

The hotel was nice, four star - air conditioned, nice staff, huge rooms and bats, king size beds, etc. We had a room overlooking the Thames with St. Stephens Tower (Big Ben) in sight. The building is also shared with the Travel Inn County Hall. There are a few restaurants - the hotel's (expensive - as was everything in the hotel), a nearby Chinese buffet, a McDonalds, a Starbucks, and a bagel shop. The London Eye is right there also. We found ourselves walking to Waterloo station (about four city blocks) most mornings for breakfast at various shops in the station.

I have to take care of some business now, so I will continue to report later.

Hi tada,

Thanx for your report.

I have been to London about six times in the Summer months, and it was always hot and humid, yet I am always told how unusual the weather is.

tada,
I'm happy you had a good time - we were last in London in April and hit a very warm spell (shirtsleeve weather for sure) so I can only imagine what Hot/Humid must have been like. You simply never know what to expect, we've been many times and never get the same weather twice (we go about the same time every year).

I'm glad you enjoyed your ride with Ray! I have recommended him a lot on this forum and we use him whenever in London. He provides a good service we think and is quite an entertaining fellow as well.

I'm looking forward to your Eurostar report (our last trip on Eurostar was not the world's greatest - late leaving Paris, crawling along at a snails pace in some areas, etc.)

As far as the hotel location, it was close to many attractions - Parliament, Westminster Abbey, the Thames, Tower of London, etc., but it was not the center for eating and shopping. We found that we spent most evenings dining in the Leicester Square/Covent Garden areas, and we shopped in the same area too.

The first day, we went over to Covent Garden and had lunch at a pub. I apologize for not writing down the names of the restaurants. But to be honest, pub food is pub food. I sampled the bangers and mash and in every pub I had either a lager or ale. The drinks were good, the food so-so. The drinks were cold though.

From there we took the Big Bus Tour (2-1/2 hours). It was a good general overview, but very touristy and very loud (the speakers grate on you). Then we toured Trafalgar Square - a great place for pictures. After a little rest for our guests, we walked the Embankment along the Thames, took pics at the area where the state barristers work (there's a statue of a little boy with a book that says "I suppose lawyers were children once&quot, got a pic of Tony Blairs law office. My wife is a paralegal and insisted on these pics. We also photographed Cleopatra's Needle.

From there we had an Indian meal at Soho Spice in the Soho area. It was excellent and well priced.

To get around we bought day passes and used the buses, the tube, and our legs. The buses worked well, the tube was easy to uses, but be prepared for stairs. All in all, be prepared to walk - get comfortable walking shoes.

By this point in the day, and with the jet lag of arriving, we shared a cab back to the hotel and collapsed.

I too am anxious to hear how the day trip was to Paris. I'm thinking of doing that in Aug. and am eager to read people's views of that trip.

Hello tada
I leave for London on June 9 and am curious about the weather (of course). I live in Arkansas, where it's already been hot and humid this spring. I'm curious as to where you're from in the States, and if the weather where you live might have influenced the way you described London's weather. For example, when I read threads about Florida's weather, I know what to expect weather-wise b/c my state is pretty hot and humid too.

I am enjoying your trip report and look forward to more!

The next day (2nd day there) we started with a cruise on the Thames from Westminster bridge to the Tower of London. The cruise comes free with the Big Bus ticket. The cruise was nice, and the narrator pointed out buildings along the Thames. It was also a great place for pictures of the Tower bridge.

We toured the Tower of London next. The tour lead by the Beefeater was excellent. He was very personable and funny. He told the story of the castle well. We then went in to see the Crown Jewels. Just seeing the jewels was well worth the admission. We spend about two hours touring the Tower, but could have easily spent more.

We grabbed a light lunch at an Italian restaurant next to the Tower among a group of souvenier shops and restuarants.

From there we took a bus to St. Paul's Cathedral. The cathedral is undergoing renovation and cleaning, some some parts are not viewable. The crypts in the basement of the cathedral were great. Many great people who you have read about through the ages - Admiral Nelson, Lawrence of Arabia, Christopher Wren (the cathedral's designer), etc.

From there, my wife and I went shopping along Oxford street.

Overall, London is expensive. The pound is high compared to the dollar, so expect to spend more than you planned.

We then took the tube back to the hotel and got ready to see "My Fair Lady" at the Royal Drury Theater. The play was excellent. It lasted three hours. The actors did a wonderful job. Dress for the theater is casual. After the play, we had an excellent Itialian meal at a restaurant directly across from the Royal Drury Theater.

From there, a cab back to the hotel.

Lee4,

The area I come from does affect my view of the weather. I'm from Denver where the humidity is very low.

I watched the weather in London, the UK, and Paris for a week before leaving. The days looked like 70s, the nights in the 50s. And it was. But while I was there, the media reported that it was the hottest May on record for the last fifty years.

It was hot, but bearable. What was hotter was mass transit, loaded with people and no air-conditioning. After re-reading my posts, I realize that I am a spoiled American, used to air-conditioning and ice!

Hi again, Tada
Thanks for letting me know about the weather. Even though I live where it's hot and humid, I love A/C too! Thanks for telling me about the transportation situation--no A/C with all those bodies--it can't smell nice either! My hotel does have A/C so that will probably help out sometimes. Reading your posts kind of helps me prepare for riding the tube and buses. Again, I'm loving your trip report--keep it coming!!

The third day in London began with a visit to Westminster Abbey. It was beautiful, had the crypts of several kings, Queen Elizabeth I, Mary Queen of Scots, etc. I saw it in ceremonies, and imagined it much larger.

From there we bused to the British Musuem. Spectacular collection. If you enjoy Egyptian, Roman, and early Near East culture, it will be especially exciting. We knew what we wanted to see, used the map purchased at the admission desk, and had a great time.

After the museum, we took the tube to Harrod's for shopping. Not an all-out-expense-is-no-object shopping spree, just some gift shopping at the food department and the souvenier department. Many small tins of candies and chocolates are available for under 20 pounds. When you purchase them, the clerks are genuinely gratious and package them exquisitely. And even if you spend only very little, you are given Harrod's bags and you had the experience.

The next day was planned for a one day Eurostar trip to Paris, so we ate dinner at a mexican restaurant in Leicester Square called Cafe Pacifico. The atmosphere was noisy and fun, and the food and margaritas were great.

Just some observations about the trip. Walking was really essential to see many sights. The mass transit systems of both Paris and London are excellent, but not every sight is located in front of a bus stop or tube entrance.

After three days of walking we were tired, but still very determined. I have a very arthritic knee, and I had a cortisone injection by my doctor given weeks prior to leaving, because I knew I wanted to see the sights and I wanted to walk comfortably.

On the topic of cameras and pictures, I took a 3.3 megapixel digital camera, took pictures about 1 MB big, and took three 128 MB and one 64 MB Smartmedia cards worth of shots - 448 pictures total. I used 2 sets of NiMH batteries (one set in use, one set fully charged) and took a 220V recharger with me, with a british plug adapter.

Two tips - pack light and take wash cloths. Wash cloths are rarely supplied, but can be obtained by asking. Packing light is learned by experience. Every time I swear to pack lighter - dragging through the airport in my home destination comes to mind.

The fourth day of our trip was actually the day of our 20th wedding anniversary. So I planned ahead and bought a day trip on the Eurostar for my wife and myself. I got first class seats for about 68 Euros each way.

We took off from Waterloo station where I had picked the tickets up a couple of days earlier. I bought the tickets online through eurostar.com. We departed at 5:15 AM and had to be there by 4:45 AM. It was an early day. The train departed right on schedule.

It was a very nice ride, quiet and smooth. It seemed slow throughout England, the tunnel was 20 minutes of darkness (barely noticeable - more like being on a train or plane at night), and the speed picked up through France. The food was so, so. An english breakfast of sausage, hash browns, and spinach. The train arrived right on time about 8:15 AM.

Gare du Nord was big, and after reading about pickpockets on Fodors, I was wary. But, I did not take a money belt, just my normal wallet in my backpocket of my Levis. But, I did try to know where I was going and I tried to keep watch on it all day. \

The first news was that there are no ATMs in Gare du Nord - be prepared for that. But, thanks to the kindness of a few French people, the directed us to a post office on the east side of Gare du Nord that had a working ATM.

I had been to Strasbourg France a few years back and had a bad opinion of the French. That changed totally in Paris. The Parisians were kind, spoke English when they knew it, and made us feel right at home. I saw no anti-Americanism at all. In fact, upon arriving at the train station from London, my wife needed to use a restroom. We found the "McClean" facilities required 1 Euro to use and we had not yet found an ATM. A kind French women saw our delima and offered to pay for my wife to use the facilities. She didn't have to do that, and we thanked her gratiously for her assistance.

From the train station, we took the number 38 bus directly to Notre Dame and saw the beautiful church. The stained glass was amazing. We passed on climbing the tower because of the lines (probably a 30 minute wait).

From there, I went an purchase a box of cuban cigars for friends in the states. I used tobacconists recommended here on Fodors - thank you all for your help, it was easy to find.

On to the Louvre. I had prepurchased tickets here in the states, had read to use the Richeleaux entrance and so forth. But, I had forgotten the tickets. So, at about 11 AM on a Wednesday morning we went to the pyramid entrace, bought tickets, and were in the Louvre in five minutes - no waiting! We got a museum map and went and saw and photographed the Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, the French Crown Jewels, and Mideivel Louvre. We knew we couldn't see it all - so we saw want we thought were important. The place is grand, you could spend a week there alone. Short on time, we grabbed baggette (sp?) sandwich, chips, and a drink at the Louvre, and made a few purchases at the gift shop.

From there we walked the Champs Elysees to the Arce de Triomphe. Please excuse spelling errors But, our legs and feet were wearing out. While still in the park part of the Champs, we had to take a break on a park bench. There we discovered the blisters on our feet, took out first aid kit, and treated our wounds. I sounds strange, but it was necessary. We saw other tourists doing the same.

The panic hit. While treating our feet, we misplaced the camera. The frantic search began. I ran up and down the boulevard searching for the lost camera on the sorest feet around. Just about when tempers were about to flare on who did what with the camera last, we found it in our backpack. I thanked the Lord for his mercy.

At this point, walking was becoming hard, so we used the bus to get as to the Arch. More pics. Then onto the Eiffel Tower.

By now it was about 5 in the afternoon. We took many pictures of the tower. We walked up and found no lines at all for the elevators. So, we went to the top. Fantastic views! Paris is enourmous! Just a wonderful site. The upper structure is very safe and I felt at ease. Knowing that we had to get back to Gare du Nord by 8:15 PM for a 8:45 departure, and now the time was getting to be 6:30 PM, we decided to pass on the Bateaux river cruise and head back leisurely on bus route 42 which runs directly from the Eiffel Tower to Gare du Nord. We arrived with plenty of time to spare and had a cold drink (sorry didn't want wine) at the McDonalds across from the station.

Paris was gorgeous, the architecture cannot be rivaled. But, we need many more days than one to see and really get the feel of the town. We knew our stay would be short, and we made the best of it.

Next time, more cafes, more food, more drink, more museums, less walking! :}

Forgot to say in the last post, the Eurostar back was right on time, leaving France and arriving in London. The food again was good, but like airplane food, even with wine. We arrived back at Waterloo around 10:40 PM, went right to the hotel, and I did a little packing for the next day. For the next day, we were leaving London, renting a minivan, and heading for York.

thanks for your detailed report! We are leaving for London 6/6/03. We want to do a day in Paris also, I think we will try after reading your report! PJ

The fifth day we had Ray Skinner pick us all up (four adults and too much luggage) and take us to the Practical Rental Car office at the Heathrow Crowne Plaza. It ran 49 pounds (plus tip). I again recommend Rays service if you are traveling with a lot of bags and are not staying near a tube station.

We picked up a Volkswagen Sharan (about the size of a Dodge Caravan) and took of for York. I did the driving, and it was a task to remember to stay left. I also felt like drifting in my lane, being used to sitting on the other side. It is funny to watch passengers try to get in on the driver's side, though. Anyway, with a little practice, I got the hang of it. Just be ready for traffic circles (roundabouts). The M highways were just like our interstate highways, and the Brits drive fast. I live in Denver and drive fast on our highways, but I found myself being passed at 80mph. The A highways were smaller, but had lots of pulloffs and services. The big service centers on the M are nice and offer about everything.

We arrived in York mid afternoon and found the hotel and car park after a lot of map reading and a few wrong turns. We stayed at the Quality Hotel. Be forewarned! There are no hotels in York that are air conditioned. Normally, that would be no problem, but we were there for the hottest spell in 50 years! The rooms were clean and modern, but small. Luggage took up valuable floor space. An to make a king bed, the zip together two twins, worked out well.

We ate lunch at Meltons Too, a little bistro, and it was very good. Plenty of small restaurants in York, some good like Meltons and Ceasars Pizzaria, and some not so good like Gert & Henrys.

At this point, part of our part retired to the hotel for well needed rest, while my wife and I shopped for cool clothes - meaning shorts and polo/t-shirts, and sandals. Changing to the cooler outfits was a necessity. After shopping, we rejoined our traveling companions and walked the city a bit, through the Shambles, by York Minster, and then on to an Itialian dinner. We would save most of York for the next day.

The sixth day we did the sites of York. We started with a trip to York Minster. It is a fine example of architecture and is very good shape. The stained glass windows are excellent.

From there we toured the Jorvik Viking Museum. The lines aren't too bad, and it is basically a ride. It's kind of tacky, but fun. The real viking artifacts found are impressive.

We then walked the Shambles. Lots of quaint shops and restaurants sprinkled about. We actually grabbed a bite at McDonalds for lunch - tried a Mexican Quarter Pounder.

From there, my wife and I took the van and headed for the coast. The nearest town was Scarborough, facing out on the North Sea. It is a quaint sea side town with two beaches - the north, very quiet and somewhat secluded, and the south with the tourist beaches, restaurants, casino, beach donkey rides, etc. Looks like it boomed in the late 1800s. Very cute. Towering above the town was Scarborough Castle. It dates back to King John, and it was even used as a Roman signaling post. Parking was tight in Scarborough (especially with a van - travel tip: get as small a car as possible!), but there were numerous parking garages.

We parked in town and walked down to the beach. It was a gorgeous day and many people were out. We had an ice cream treat that was a soft serve cone with a Cadbury chocolate stick inserted in it. Very tasty.

From there, we walked up a lot of stairs to the wall of the castle, and walked the wall to the entrace. But, at 10 till 6:00 PM, we had only ten minutes to tour it.

We decided to head back to York directly, eat some dinner, and return the next day with our traveling companions for a tour.

Got too quick witht he submit button.

In York, we also toured Clifford's Tower - the remains of an early castle and later a prison, located right in the heart of York. Great views of the surrounding area, and offers directed views of key monuments.

Tada,
Outstanding report. We are headed to London in a week and wondered what to pack. Good show! Has anyone seen any good plays that will be in London through the 19th?

B&S

On the seventh day, we left York to return to London, but first we would make a loop from York to Scarborough, to Whitby, to Pickering, and back to York. We took this route to see the seashore, some quaint towns, and to see the Moors that I had always read about.

We first went to Scarborough Castle that was build by King John. It was an early Roman signaling outpost, and remnants of the original buildings are still there. The castle sits high on a hill towering above the North Sea. The admission included a free narrated tour (radios) that was really infomative. Well worth it. We then toured the town of Scarborough shortly with our traveling companions.

Then we drove to Whitby. I again must urge travelers to rent as small a vehicle as possible. Many roads are very narrow (one lane) and you must work with oncoming drivers to get through. Whitby is a fun little fishing village turned tourist town. Plenty of good fish and chips! The Endevor (sp?) is moored there. Captain Cook's museum is there on Grape Street. Above the town is an ancient Abbey that was sacked and looted by Henry VIII. We didn't have the time the see it, but it looked very interesing. You can photograph it with a zoom lens from Whitby.

We had fish and chips at a restaurant called Trenchers. It was the best of the whole trip. The staff was nice and the food was delicious. Try the mushy peas as a condiment for your fish. Whitby is getting north in England and the locals speak with almost a Scottish accent. For examply, mushy peas were pronounce "Mooshy peas" and jug was "joog". Lovely little town.

Then we when on to Pickering, a tiny town, but you drive though the Moors. I imagined flat barren ground covered with fog (like in Sherlock Holmes stories). It was barren, but the land had swells. It was like low brown bushes, with nothing else growing. Strange country. And on the way, there is a huge RAF installation with the strangest shaped building that you can see for miles.

From there, another high speed drive down A64 to M1, to M25, to M4 on to the Heathrow Marriott. My sister got us two lovely rooms using her Marriott points. This was a great hotel. Right next to Heathrow. But be aware, they have a bus that goes between hotels that takes you to the airport. You cannot get a regular cab from there, only the hotels private cab service (about 10 pounds - a ripoff).

I returned the car to Practical Rental Car with no problems. The van was practical for four people with a lot of luggage, but it was huge in terms of European cars.

The next day, a quick breakfast at McDonalds (my weakness) and then a flight back to Denver via Chicago. I really do recommend flying business class, just so much more comfortable. If you belong to a mileage club - United, Delta, American, etc., you can usually buy enough miles to upgrade a regular class economy (coach) ticket for under $500. So a full price economy ticket to London from Denver is about $1000. Upgrade it for $415 (15000 miles), and you get a business class ticket for practically half of its normal or sale price.

Thank you all for reading my long winded post. I apologize for an remembered inaccuracies and hope that this information can help others as much as all the people here helped me.

Have fun!!

ttt