Trip report - Switzerland and north Italy
Jun 2nd, 2023, 03:54 AM
#61
Agree, Hambagahle, that was a fabulous lunch! And good company, too 😉
Day 10 : Stresa base
Weather: locals say it’s been very dreary and wet, with no real spring until a week or so ago.
The forecast has shown thunderstorms every day, and there has been thundery showers/ rain every morning or night. Weather clearing during the afternoon most days, often blue skies.
Last night we had an epic thunderstorm, pouring rain and incredibly loud cracks of thunder.
Then calm overnight and in the morning.
Very slow, lazy start, slept in, our usual double espresso each at our local bar (older chaps already on the beer/ wine).
It’s warm and humid during the day, 25-27C.
Today we intended to visit Arona Arona : history and modern vitality another historic lakeside town.
Few ferries Stresa - Arona route, so headed for the bus stop, with 5 min to spare, to see a bus pull in on the other side of the road (heading reverse route to Baveno I assumed, but no, it was our bus and turned off left further down the street). Oh well.
We are now in holiday mode and just wandered down the promenade instead, so lovely.
2 of the Borromean islands
Happy dogs …..
Gelati stop on way home.
Stresa is such a tidy town, where the mechanical street sweeper can’t access, the tiny tuck comes through and someone sweeps the cobblestones
the area is known for its’ granite, check out the quarry!! Incredible.
Final thoughts:
We have really enjoyed our Stresa stay.
Very easy place to settle into with lakeside outings accessible by ferry, and the little towns by train or bus.
I’d either base in Baveno or Stresa though, as the ferry timetable is less convenient in other towns. Quite busy already, so I imagine summer will be pretty crowded.
We found the towns very charming and it’s been quite relaxing.
There’s much more we could do from here, but it’s time to move on to Locarno and the valleys of the Ticino.
Day 10 : Stresa base
Weather: locals say it’s been very dreary and wet, with no real spring until a week or so ago.
The forecast has shown thunderstorms every day, and there has been thundery showers/ rain every morning or night. Weather clearing during the afternoon most days, often blue skies.
Last night we had an epic thunderstorm, pouring rain and incredibly loud cracks of thunder.
Then calm overnight and in the morning.
Very slow, lazy start, slept in, our usual double espresso each at our local bar (older chaps already on the beer/ wine).
It’s warm and humid during the day, 25-27C.
Today we intended to visit Arona Arona : history and modern vitality another historic lakeside town.
Few ferries Stresa - Arona route, so headed for the bus stop, with 5 min to spare, to see a bus pull in on the other side of the road (heading reverse route to Baveno I assumed, but no, it was our bus and turned off left further down the street). Oh well.
We are now in holiday mode and just wandered down the promenade instead, so lovely.
2 of the Borromean islands
Happy dogs …..
Gelati stop on way home.
Stresa is such a tidy town, where the mechanical street sweeper can’t access, the tiny tuck comes through and someone sweeps the cobblestones
the area is known for its’ granite, check out the quarry!! Incredible.
Final thoughts:
We have really enjoyed our Stresa stay.
Very easy place to settle into with lakeside outings accessible by ferry, and the little towns by train or bus.
I’d either base in Baveno or Stresa though, as the ferry timetable is less convenient in other towns. Quite busy already, so I imagine summer will be pretty crowded.
We found the towns very charming and it’s been quite relaxing.
There’s much more we could do from here, but it’s time to move on to Locarno and the valleys of the Ticino.
Jun 2nd, 2023, 04:10 AM
#62
Day 11 :
(move to Locarno) Leaving Italy, returning to Switzerland
The Centovalli route
Train from Stresa to Domodossola (30 mins), connecting with Centovalli train from Domodossola to Locarno (2hours) about 20 CHF, what a lovely slow train ride, thick forests, stone roofed villages, deep ravines, from valle Ossola, through valle Vigezza, Centovalli to Lake Maggiore. Another option is a 3 hour ferry.
Tiny hamlet on the hillside
It’s an easy 10 min stroll from the train station to the lake and our apartment, in the flat and modern part of town, quite some modern high rise around us.
A quick shop at Aldi and we were stocked up, then an orientation stroll to the Piazza Grande, Castello Visconteo (some original 12th Century foundations remain, building remains from the 15/16th Century and is an archaeological museum) and lakefront.
We are located 100 m from the lake and the Locarno Centro bus stop, and near the Piazza Grande, and shops, so it’ll be a convenient base.
(move to Locarno) Leaving Italy, returning to Switzerland
The Centovalli route
Train from Stresa to Domodossola (30 mins), connecting with Centovalli train from Domodossola to Locarno (2hours) about 20 CHF, what a lovely slow train ride, thick forests, stone roofed villages, deep ravines, from valle Ossola, through valle Vigezza, Centovalli to Lake Maggiore. Another option is a 3 hour ferry.
Tiny hamlet on the hillside
It’s an easy 10 min stroll from the train station to the lake and our apartment, in the flat and modern part of town, quite some modern high rise around us.
A quick shop at Aldi and we were stocked up, then an orientation stroll to the Piazza Grande, Castello Visconteo (some original 12th Century foundations remain, building remains from the 15/16th Century and is an archaeological museum) and lakefront.
We are located 100 m from the lake and the Locarno Centro bus stop, and near the Piazza Grande, and shops, so it’ll be a convenient base.
Jun 2nd, 2023, 04:18 AM
#63
What a fabulous trip report and photos! What I love is how you’re doing this without a car and going slowly, soaking up the atmosphere, taking your time to just be there. Just wonderful. I feel relaxed as I’m reading this. Thank you!
Jun 2nd, 2023, 08:27 AM
#65
Day 12 : Locarno base
Bus to Bellinzona
https://www.ticinotopten.ch/en/monum...les-bellinzona
SBBApp to plan trip and buy tickets as we went, so easy.
Our bus stop and lake at end of street
We opted for the bus as it routes through the hilly suburbs of Locarno, some hamlets, passes the food bowl (sunny flat valley bed so vegetables grown here, grapes across hillside), some light industry. Forested mountains all around.
Bellinzona is so pretty and the 3 castles and fortifications are a UNESCO listed site
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/884/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castles_of_Bellinzona
There’s an elevator built into the rock to access the Castel Grande, or an easy walk along the walls.
2 other castles visible from this one
Visited the Chiesa Collegiata dei Santi Pietro e Stefano with its very visible facade from the castle.
Bought our essential provisions on way home (beer! chocolate!)
I walked the lakeside promenade to San Quirico church, a sunny afternoon and very pleasant. Passes the ferry station, lots of restaurants, nicely gardened, family friendly with a playground and some grassy areas one can sit on.
Fancy villas, some with gardens right to the lake, blocking access to the promenade and diverting walkers to a lane, and others that are backed right onto the train line. Otherwise, mostly apartments.
A really nice area to walk.
Bus to Bellinzona
https://www.ticinotopten.ch/en/monum...les-bellinzona
SBBApp to plan trip and buy tickets as we went, so easy.
Our bus stop and lake at end of street
We opted for the bus as it routes through the hilly suburbs of Locarno, some hamlets, passes the food bowl (sunny flat valley bed so vegetables grown here, grapes across hillside), some light industry. Forested mountains all around.
Bellinzona is so pretty and the 3 castles and fortifications are a UNESCO listed site
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/884/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castles_of_Bellinzona
There’s an elevator built into the rock to access the Castel Grande, or an easy walk along the walls.
2 other castles visible from this one
Visited the Chiesa Collegiata dei Santi Pietro e Stefano with its very visible facade from the castle.
Bought our essential provisions on way home (beer! chocolate!)
I walked the lakeside promenade to San Quirico church, a sunny afternoon and very pleasant. Passes the ferry station, lots of restaurants, nicely gardened, family friendly with a playground and some grassy areas one can sit on.
Fancy villas, some with gardens right to the lake, blocking access to the promenade and diverting walkers to a lane, and others that are backed right onto the train line. Otherwise, mostly apartments.
A really nice area to walk.
Jun 3rd, 2023, 12:39 AM
#67
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Hallo again!
Been quiet but have been really enjoying your narrative and of course your photos!
Belgirate looks like a lovely little town ... those boats sitting at the harbor, waiting. Tiny cobbled streets.
Domodossola looks very inviting! I looked it up, and it's just about 2h from Montreux, so a possibility for my trip in the Fall. That is so interesting, nechervd, about Domodossola!!
Oh gosh, I love promenade strolls, and in fact arrange entire days around them, lol! I love your pace.
>>
The journey to Locarno looks so lush! Were you not tempted by the ferry trip to Locarno instead? One long trip vs. two short ones??
Love the stone buildings & walls there.
Bellinzona looks nice, too. It's been on my list for a long time, but I haven't made it there yet.
Love the frescoe.
And of course there can never be too many promenade/lakeside/sailboat photos for me!
Thanks again for posting so we all can enjoy the trip!!
s
Been quiet but have been really enjoying your narrative and of course your photos!
Belgirate looks like a lovely little town ... those boats sitting at the harbor, waiting. Tiny cobbled streets.
Domodossola looks very inviting! I looked it up, and it's just about 2h from Montreux, so a possibility for my trip in the Fall. That is so interesting, nechervd, about Domodossola!!
Oh gosh, I love promenade strolls, and in fact arrange entire days around them, lol! I love your pace.
>>
The journey to Locarno looks so lush! Were you not tempted by the ferry trip to Locarno instead? One long trip vs. two short ones??
Love the stone buildings & walls there.
Bellinzona looks nice, too. It's been on my list for a long time, but I haven't made it there yet.
Love the frescoe.
And of course there can never be too many promenade/lakeside/sailboat photos for me!
Thanks again for posting so we all can enjoy the trip!!
s
Jun 3rd, 2023, 08:53 AM
#68
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Didn't your host give you a Ticino Ticket?
https://www.ticino.ch/en/ticket.html
https://www.ticino.ch/en/ticket.html
Jun 3rd, 2023, 09:23 AM
#70
Hi swandav, no, the ferry was only at 2 pm (pre season) so didn’t suit us, plus I wanted that train ride.
In summer, though, there’s one at 11am and offers lunch.
I know how much you love Switzerland, it’s nice to share my journey with you.
Day 13 : Locarno base (daytrip to Giornico)
Dramatic thunderstorm over night, cooler today.
Reminder to check those hourly weather sites, and avoid being out in them.
It’s an Italian long weekend, and we are avoiding popular outings so as not to be in crowds or crammed in a bus.
We are quite content to see quieter places, it’s all so different and interesting to us. Most online searches will lead you to the Verzasca valley, but that’d be a zoo over the weekend (we will go through the week).
I love mixing a bit of busy with small hamlets and gentle strolls.
We chose Giornico in the Leventina valley as our daytrip.
https://www.borghisvizzera.ch/en/scheda/giornico/
https://www.bellinzonaevalli.ch/en/i...co/138315.html
It was a 50 min journey, on an excellent train, change to bus in Bodio, a 3 minute transfer.
clean and modern train
bus with stops displayed
Wow!! What a charming village.
How’s this for a bus stop??
It’s on the Gotthard route, so gets some traffic (motorbikes mostly) but rest of traffic is on a bypass road.
So, it’s peaceful, in a lush valley, with historic buildings adapted to modern life, several significant churches, surrounded by mountains.
The museum
The museum
A brilliant day wandering and lunching in the Grotto dei due Ponti, because, although we had packed our lunch, this was too perfect to not dine in.
Only heard Italian spoken by other guests, the menu was in Italian, the waitress didn’t speak English or German, so we had fun deciphering each other and she was most gracious and patient.
After my divine melon / prosciutto starter (DH wasn’t sure what his was but he ate it, lol, and pronounced it delicious), I had a spicy chicken dish (thanks to Google) and he had ribs. Fantastic. A beautiful location. Perfect day.
Then the Sicilian couple at next table who are holidaying nearby, joined us, bought us wine, and we chatted. Their English much better than our Italian..
village and church wanderings :
The river divides, creating a tiny island
Chiesa San Nicolao, oldest Romanesque church in Leventina, 12th C
Chiesa San Michele
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Castello is perched up on a rocky outcrop
Incredible history, natural landscape, charming village, fantastic lunch. Really perfect day, exactly what I was hoping to experience in the Ticino.
In summer, though, there’s one at 11am and offers lunch.
I know how much you love Switzerland, it’s nice to share my journey with you.
Day 13 : Locarno base (daytrip to Giornico)
Dramatic thunderstorm over night, cooler today.
Reminder to check those hourly weather sites, and avoid being out in them.
It’s an Italian long weekend, and we are avoiding popular outings so as not to be in crowds or crammed in a bus.
We are quite content to see quieter places, it’s all so different and interesting to us. Most online searches will lead you to the Verzasca valley, but that’d be a zoo over the weekend (we will go through the week).
I love mixing a bit of busy with small hamlets and gentle strolls.
We chose Giornico in the Leventina valley as our daytrip.
https://www.borghisvizzera.ch/en/scheda/giornico/
https://www.bellinzonaevalli.ch/en/i...co/138315.html
It was a 50 min journey, on an excellent train, change to bus in Bodio, a 3 minute transfer.
clean and modern train
bus with stops displayed
Wow!! What a charming village.
How’s this for a bus stop??
It’s on the Gotthard route, so gets some traffic (motorbikes mostly) but rest of traffic is on a bypass road.
So, it’s peaceful, in a lush valley, with historic buildings adapted to modern life, several significant churches, surrounded by mountains.
The museum
The museum
A brilliant day wandering and lunching in the Grotto dei due Ponti, because, although we had packed our lunch, this was too perfect to not dine in.
Only heard Italian spoken by other guests, the menu was in Italian, the waitress didn’t speak English or German, so we had fun deciphering each other and she was most gracious and patient.
After my divine melon / prosciutto starter (DH wasn’t sure what his was but he ate it, lol, and pronounced it delicious), I had a spicy chicken dish (thanks to Google) and he had ribs. Fantastic. A beautiful location. Perfect day.
Then the Sicilian couple at next table who are holidaying nearby, joined us, bought us wine, and we chatted. Their English much better than our Italian..
village and church wanderings :
The river divides, creating a tiny island
Chiesa San Nicolao, oldest Romanesque church in Leventina, 12th C
Chiesa San Michele
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Castello is perched up on a rocky outcrop
Incredible history, natural landscape, charming village, fantastic lunch. Really perfect day, exactly what I was hoping to experience in the Ticino.
Jun 3rd, 2023, 11:13 PM
#71
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NeckerVD - That is right. It takes a bit longer on the IR90 which necessitates a change in Brig. (I took the IR90 to go to Domo to meet Adelaidean last week...came back on an EC train headed for Geneva but only found one free seat. I was lucky!). Swandav - Domo might be a possibility for us in October ?
Adelaidean - more lovely photos (I particularly appreciated the one of the beer! Comes from near here...). But I echo NeckarVD's comment - didn't your host give you the Ticino Card ? That would cover all travel in the entire canton. You should have been given it as part of the rental.
Adelaidean - more lovely photos (I particularly appreciated the one of the beer! Comes from near here...). But I echo NeckarVD's comment - didn't your host give you the Ticino Card ? That would cover all travel in the entire canton. You should have been given it as part of the rental.
Last edited by Hambagahle; Jun 3rd, 2023 at 11:19 PM.
Jun 4th, 2023, 02:29 AM
#72
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Moi, par contre, j'ai été choqué de voir qu'un grotto a Giornico - à quelque 10 km de la fameuse Birreria del Gottardo a Faido - vend de la Bière Valaisanne.
Quel snobisme!
Quant au train vous avez raison. En haute saison, il peut être plus confortable to reach Brig by BLS train (which usually continues up to Berne, along the scenic old Loetschberg line).
Quel snobisme!
Quant au train vous avez raison. En haute saison, il peut être plus confortable to reach Brig by BLS train (which usually continues up to Berne, along the scenic old Loetschberg line).
Jun 4th, 2023, 05:27 AM
#73
I failed to notice if Adelaidean is staying in an apartment...not all accommodation provides the Ticino card - our apartment in Locarno didn't - and I asked specifically. I run into this all the time in Switzerland, not all accommodation offers guest/transport cards...and it has nothing to do with being licensed from what I understand.
The guest card situation seems to vary by location and apartment owner, whereas staying in a hotel seems to guarantee a guest card.
Per the Ticino Ticket website "Everyone overnighting in hotels, youth hostels or campsites taking part in the project can get a Ticino Ticket". Not a word about apartments.
The guest card situation seems to vary by location and apartment owner, whereas staying in a hotel seems to guarantee a guest card.
Per the Ticino Ticket website "Everyone overnighting in hotels, youth hostels or campsites taking part in the project can get a Ticino Ticket". Not a word about apartments.
Last edited by Melnq8; Jun 4th, 2023 at 05:43 AM.
Jun 4th, 2023, 07:42 AM
#74
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Melnq, you are right. The same problem occurs regularly with the Konus Card for Black Forest.
The Arcobaleno daypass for Ticino and Mesolcina doesn't give any discount, unless you do more than 1 RT travel the same day.
The Arcobaleno daypass for Ticino and Mesolcina doesn't give any discount, unless you do more than 1 RT travel the same day.
Jun 4th, 2023, 08:43 AM
#75
Mel, we are in an apartment, definitely need the space for longer stays. No Ticino ticket for this booking.
neckervd, don’t jump to conclusions, there may have been many local beer options on that grotto’s menu, we just asked for a beer, and a vino russo, without checking the drinks menu as it was taking me long enough to order from the food menu. Maybe we looked like snobs
Day 14 :
Locarno base (Ascona)
Visited Ascona -
It’s gourmet market day today https://www.terreniallamaggia.ch/en/...ercatodelgusto
Can buy small dishes to try at CHF5 https://www.terreniallamaggia.ch/en/...delgusto/chefs
Frequent bus or occasional ferry to and from Locarno, we took the bus, 9 min.
Ascona was buzzing, its lakeshore promenade is really picturesque with a wide pedestrian zone, lakeside dining, attractive buildings.
(It’s a short convenient bus ride to Locarno, I can see why it would appeal as a base)
We weren’t hungry, so skipped the opportunity for great taster dishes at the gourmet festival and headed back to Locarno, taking the funicular to Madonna del Sasso (cloudy higher up, so didn’t add Cardada-Cimetta)
The Madonna del Sasso is extraordinarily sited, even though I’ve seen it dozens of times online it really took my breath away.
A great beer and pizza lakeside afterwards.
neckervd, don’t jump to conclusions, there may have been many local beer options on that grotto’s menu, we just asked for a beer, and a vino russo, without checking the drinks menu as it was taking me long enough to order from the food menu. Maybe we looked like snobs
Day 14 :
Locarno base (Ascona)
Visited Ascona -
It’s gourmet market day today https://www.terreniallamaggia.ch/en/...ercatodelgusto
Can buy small dishes to try at CHF5 https://www.terreniallamaggia.ch/en/...delgusto/chefs
Frequent bus or occasional ferry to and from Locarno, we took the bus, 9 min.
Ascona was buzzing, its lakeshore promenade is really picturesque with a wide pedestrian zone, lakeside dining, attractive buildings.
(It’s a short convenient bus ride to Locarno, I can see why it would appeal as a base)
We weren’t hungry, so skipped the opportunity for great taster dishes at the gourmet festival and headed back to Locarno, taking the funicular to Madonna del Sasso (cloudy higher up, so didn’t add Cardada-Cimetta)
The Madonna del Sasso is extraordinarily sited, even though I’ve seen it dozens of times online it really took my breath away.
A great beer and pizza lakeside afterwards.
Jun 4th, 2023, 11:32 AM
#77
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....and I really enjoy your report with all the marvellous photos of places in my home country (plus VCO Province) that I all know and like very well.
May be you are interested in a legend of yor pictures. For post 22 (Simplon), that gives:
Einigen (Lake Thun)
Faulensee (Lake Thun)
Brig, train from Fiesch
Brig, historic railway station building
Postbus
View from Ried to Glishorn (in the clouds) and Gibidum
near Rothwald
Niwen (Simplon)
Altes Hospiz (built 1650 by Kaspar Jodok von Stockalper, the man who organized the goods traffic between Lake Geneva and Lake Maggiore)
Chnubla, close to Maschuhuis
Gschonas Erb and entry to the Gorge of Gondo
Gsteihuis (Laggintal)
Ramsera (Gondo Gorge).
May be you are interested in a legend of yor pictures. For post 22 (Simplon), that gives:
Einigen (Lake Thun)
Faulensee (Lake Thun)
Brig, train from Fiesch
Brig, historic railway station building
Postbus
View from Ried to Glishorn (in the clouds) and Gibidum
near Rothwald
Niwen (Simplon)
Altes Hospiz (built 1650 by Kaspar Jodok von Stockalper, the man who organized the goods traffic between Lake Geneva and Lake Maggiore)
Chnubla, close to Maschuhuis
Gschonas Erb and entry to the Gorge of Gondo
Gsteihuis (Laggintal)
Ramsera (Gondo Gorge).
Jun 4th, 2023, 11:54 PM
#79
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Moi, par contre, j'ai été choqué de voir qu'un grotto a Giornico - à quelque 10 km de la fameuse Birreria del Gottardo a Faido - vend de la Bière Valaisanne.
Quel snobisme!
Quant au train vous avez raison. En haute saison, il peut être plus confortable to reach Brig by BLS train (which usually continues up to Berne, along the scenic old Loetschberg line).
Quel snobisme!
Quant au train vous avez raison. En haute saison, il peut être plus confortable to reach Brig by BLS train (which usually continues up to Berne, along the scenic old Loetschberg line).
I took the BLS train Domo/Brig one winter. It was fine. And when I went to Domo last week I took a CFF train that came from Bern (I think) from Brig to Domo. Again no problem and certainly plenty of seats. However even if I had had to stand I would have taken the EC train simply because the frequency of trains from Domo to Brig is not that great.
Stockalper did more than just build things. He founded the school my granddaughter attends in Brig. And that in the 17th century (1642 I think but could be wrong). It is a really good school. He must have been a very interesting man.
Last edited by Hambagahle; Jun 5th, 2023 at 12:04 AM.
Jun 5th, 2023, 08:15 AM
#80
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Personne ne dit que la bière valaisanne n'est pas excellente. But so is la birra del Gottardo. I just critcize the (in my eyes) unneccessery transport. I have the same problem if I get Passuger Mineralwasser at Geneva and Henniez at Chur.
I know, the Domo - Brig timetable is not really passenger friendly.
EC trains from Milan arrive often late and crowded (except those with 2 modules) and leave therefore often so late that the "connecting train" at Brig couldn't wait.
BLS trains run every 2 hrs, but don't wait if the regional trains from Gallarate (Malpensa airport!) - Stresa arrive a few minutes too late.
Only CFF trains leaving at ... 48 and having Domo as origine are somewhat thrustworthy, but there aren't many of them.
Kaspar Jodok von Stockalper - de Riedmatten was a great person indeed. He spoke Wallisertitsch, German, French, Italian, Latin and Greek. He built resp. improved the whole Simplon itinerary, owned the gold mines of Gondo (and many other mines), built schools, hospitals in Valais and warehouses from Milan up to Lyon,dealt with Pope Urbain 8th, King Louis 14th, Emperor Ferdinand 3rd..........
I know, the Domo - Brig timetable is not really passenger friendly.
EC trains from Milan arrive often late and crowded (except those with 2 modules) and leave therefore often so late that the "connecting train" at Brig couldn't wait.
BLS trains run every 2 hrs, but don't wait if the regional trains from Gallarate (Malpensa airport!) - Stresa arrive a few minutes too late.
Only CFF trains leaving at ... 48 and having Domo as origine are somewhat thrustworthy, but there aren't many of them.
Kaspar Jodok von Stockalper - de Riedmatten was a great person indeed. He spoke Wallisertitsch, German, French, Italian, Latin and Greek. He built resp. improved the whole Simplon itinerary, owned the gold mines of Gondo (and many other mines), built schools, hospitals in Valais and warehouses from Milan up to Lyon,dealt with Pope Urbain 8th, King Louis 14th, Emperor Ferdinand 3rd..........
