Trip report - Switzerland and north Italy
Jun 5th, 2023, 10:14 AM
#81
Thanks neckervd, those identifiers are helpful.
Looking forward to Mel’s stay in Domodossola. We would have loved to jump off that bus at Simplon.
Lots to see in the Centovalli, too, the little villages and surprising things like a chimney sweep museum, so much historical hardship here.
Day 15 Locarno (bus to Sonlerto)
We had a 75 min bus trip today, heading for Sonlerto in the Bavona valley, a remote, deep valley with many landslides and very tough life for inhabitants a long time ago.
Farming in these challenging landscapes, the long winters with hardly any sun penetrating the valley floor. Incredible. Most inhabitants move out over the winter.
These days some of the homes are holiday homes, looking very appealing right now, with sun, flowers, and the surrounding rich green forests.
Sonlerto is tiny and built around the boulders of a prehistoric landslide. Also created small gardens on top of massive boulders, protected from the goats and maximised flat areas.
Old granary
Built around and under boulders from landslides
Sonlerto
Faedo
Roseto
Splüi are the buildings under the rock to create shelters, housing and stables, like this in Sabbione
photo from internet:
We did a short, easy 4 km walk from Sonlerto to Foroglio, passing little villages along the way (Faedo, Roseto)
Foroglio well known due to the waterfall
Some people climbed to the top of the waterfall and on into the Calnègia valley
https://swissfamilyfun.com/foroglio-waterfall/
We had to lunch at La Froda instead, and lingered too long over an excellent lunch (I had beef and polenta, and a poppy / chocolate cake), just a gorgeous day and very relaxing.
have a look at the bus stops…. stunning!
Looking forward to Mel’s stay in Domodossola. We would have loved to jump off that bus at Simplon.
Lots to see in the Centovalli, too, the little villages and surprising things like a chimney sweep museum, so much historical hardship here.
Day 15 Locarno (bus to Sonlerto)
We had a 75 min bus trip today, heading for Sonlerto in the Bavona valley, a remote, deep valley with many landslides and very tough life for inhabitants a long time ago.
Farming in these challenging landscapes, the long winters with hardly any sun penetrating the valley floor. Incredible. Most inhabitants move out over the winter.
These days some of the homes are holiday homes, looking very appealing right now, with sun, flowers, and the surrounding rich green forests.
Sonlerto is tiny and built around the boulders of a prehistoric landslide. Also created small gardens on top of massive boulders, protected from the goats and maximised flat areas.
Old granary
Built around and under boulders from landslides
Sonlerto
Faedo
Roseto
Splüi are the buildings under the rock to create shelters, housing and stables, like this in Sabbione
photo from internet:
We did a short, easy 4 km walk from Sonlerto to Foroglio, passing little villages along the way (Faedo, Roseto)
Foroglio well known due to the waterfall
Some people climbed to the top of the waterfall and on into the Calnègia valley
https://swissfamilyfun.com/foroglio-waterfall/
We had to lunch at La Froda instead, and lingered too long over an excellent lunch (I had beef and polenta, and a poppy / chocolate cake), just a gorgeous day and very relaxing.
have a look at the bus stops…. stunning!
Jun 6th, 2023, 09:58 AM
#86
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My goodness Adelaidean what amazing pictures in a bit of an off the beaten track area. (Till anyone sees those photos!)
Interesting to see what can be done with public transport although I'm sure the logistics are complicated.
We have a lease car this trip and it has been fine so far but you have to include access and parking into the mix. So many cities now have ZTLs and the clean air certificate is another complication. Thinking this may be our last trip with a car.
Interesting to see what can be done with public transport although I'm sure the logistics are complicated.
We have a lease car this trip and it has been fine so far but you have to include access and parking into the mix. So many cities now have ZTLs and the clean air certificate is another complication. Thinking this may be our last trip with a car.
Jun 6th, 2023, 11:48 AM
#87
Certainly no need for a car here, Hugo, hope you can see how easy it is.
Day 16 : Locarno (train to Lugano)I had a solo trip to Lugano, just to get a feel of the town.
DH stayed behind, and managed the shopping, cooking and washing. His choice!
Lugano is only a 30 min, very frequent, train ride from Locarno. I alighted at Paradiso to do the Funicular San Salvatore, a 2 step funicular with very steep incline on 2nd leg (61%).
Several of the older people struggled with the sardine car funicular, crowds and steps with their walkers and sticks.
Anyway, a nice day for it, lovely views from the panoramic points. So beautiful.
Return trip on funicular, then walked the lakeside promenade to the very elegant city centre which is humming with beautiful people, dressed in designer wear (I’m guessing). More Botox type clinics than hiking boots stores.
New and old
Sun loungers and swimming area
Gorgeous promenade
Welcome shade
Visited the Chiesa Santa Maria degli Angioli with its frescoes
https://www.ticinotopten.ch/en/monum...angioli-lugano
Crane watching and people watching, while I ate my fragola gelato. Which was divine.
Cranes delivering components for rooftop crane
Platform being transferred
People dining under the crane work!
Platform attached
So good!
lovely buildings in the centre:
Have another day planned for Lugano, this was just a taster.
Meanwhile DH has been busy
I might just leave him home tomorrow, too, lol!
Day 16 : Locarno (train to Lugano)I had a solo trip to Lugano, just to get a feel of the town.
DH stayed behind, and managed the shopping, cooking and washing. His choice!
Lugano is only a 30 min, very frequent, train ride from Locarno. I alighted at Paradiso to do the Funicular San Salvatore, a 2 step funicular with very steep incline on 2nd leg (61%).
Several of the older people struggled with the sardine car funicular, crowds and steps with their walkers and sticks.
Anyway, a nice day for it, lovely views from the panoramic points. So beautiful.
Return trip on funicular, then walked the lakeside promenade to the very elegant city centre which is humming with beautiful people, dressed in designer wear (I’m guessing). More Botox type clinics than hiking boots stores.
New and old
Sun loungers and swimming area
Gorgeous promenade
Welcome shade
Visited the Chiesa Santa Maria degli Angioli with its frescoes
https://www.ticinotopten.ch/en/monum...angioli-lugano
Crane watching and people watching, while I ate my fragola gelato. Which was divine.
Cranes delivering components for rooftop crane
Platform being transferred
People dining under the crane work!
Platform attached
So good!
lovely buildings in the centre:
Have another day planned for Lugano, this was just a taster.
Meanwhile DH has been busy
I might just leave him home tomorrow, too, lol!
Jun 7th, 2023, 01:27 AM
#91
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What a nice husband! (Tell him his cooking looks good too!). And ahh! Lugano. Que bella città ! The time taken now to get from Locarno to Lugano is a lot (by probably more than 30mns) shorter than it used to be now the Ceneri tunnel is open. Again train makes more sense than driving... and how well you know that Adelaidean!
Jun 7th, 2023, 09:44 AM
#92
Day 17: Locarno base (bus to Lavertezzo, Verzasca Valley)
I wanted to see these rockpools and knowing the Verzasca Valley was quite popular for swimming and hiking, we opted for a mid week trip.
The 40 minute bus trip alone is worth it.
Hairpin turns in a full size bus, deep ravine on one side, cliff face on the other, backing up inches to allow another bus past.
The Verzasca dam.
Corippo clinging to the hillside.
A deep valley.
The Verzasca river.
There’s a popular waterfall near Sonogno, at the end of the route, which the older hikers seemed to be heading for and the arched bridge at Lavertezzo and rockpool swimming that draws the younger, hipper crowd.
We started our walk at Lavertezzo - we are not hikers, just look for scenic walks.
Our end point was Brione, Ganne.
Lavertezzo was buzzing with sunbathers lounging on the huge boulders.
The walk is about 5km and is stunning.
Through forest, following the river, passes waterfalls, just perfection.
And at the Ganne bus stop, a gelato truck.
We had an hour until the bus so ate our lunch in the forest and then I had my fragola gelato - can the day get any better than this?
Return bus is Swiss efficient, so we knew to be on time, but we had to change in Tenero and blindly followed those ahead not remembering the ‘check the other side of the road rule’, lol.
So of course, the destination wasn’t the same (Gordola) and we had a quick dash across road, same number bus, but Losone destination (Locarno on the way).
Another perfect day.
I wanted to see these rockpools and knowing the Verzasca Valley was quite popular for swimming and hiking, we opted for a mid week trip. The 40 minute bus trip alone is worth it.
Hairpin turns in a full size bus, deep ravine on one side, cliff face on the other, backing up inches to allow another bus past.
The Verzasca dam.
Corippo clinging to the hillside.
A deep valley.
The Verzasca river.
There’s a popular waterfall near Sonogno, at the end of the route, which the older hikers seemed to be heading for and the arched bridge at Lavertezzo and rockpool swimming that draws the younger, hipper crowd.
We started our walk at Lavertezzo - we are not hikers, just look for scenic walks.
Our end point was Brione, Ganne.
Lavertezzo was buzzing with sunbathers lounging on the huge boulders.
The walk is about 5km and is stunning.
Through forest, following the river, passes waterfalls, just perfection.
And at the Ganne bus stop, a gelato truck.
We had an hour until the bus so ate our lunch in the forest and then I had my fragola gelato - can the day get any better than this?
Return bus is Swiss efficient, so we knew to be on time, but we had to change in Tenero and blindly followed those ahead not remembering the ‘check the other side of the road rule’, lol.
So of course, the destination wasn’t the same (Gordola) and we had a quick dash across road, same number bus, but Losone destination (Locarno on the way).
Another perfect day.
Jun 7th, 2023, 09:46 AM
#93
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If you like renaissance frescoes, you may visit Ponte Capriasca https://www.ticino.ch/en/commons/det...ogio/2695.html
For older frescoes, check Riva San Vitale https://www.ticinotopten.ch/it/monum...iva-san-vitale
For older frescoes, check Riva San Vitale https://www.ticinotopten.ch/it/monum...iva-san-vitale
Jun 7th, 2023, 10:23 PM
#96
what always amazes me is the shear poverty of these regions when they were entrance paths to the high passes through Switzerland which only began to change with the arrival of the railways and the start of the middle classes holidaying in the scenic places. Many say that the railway stitches Switzerland together and it was certainly used as a political tool to bind the cantons together but more, it brought real money to some desolate areas
Jun 7th, 2023, 11:11 PM
#97
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I think that all the mountain areas of Switzerland aside from those who have developed resorts, are poor. It is hard to farm in the mountains. Short growing season, rocky terrain and I suppose the only animals to keep up there are for dairy.
The photos are just lovely! What a nice "walk". (Did seem more like a hike to me)
The photos are just lovely! What a nice "walk". (Did seem more like a hike to me)
Jun 8th, 2023, 09:59 AM
#98
I don’t think I linked this great interactive hiking map earlier : very useful.
https://map.wanderland.ch/?lang=en&p...000&bgLayer=pk
Day 18: Locarno base (train to Lugano)Public holiday here
Roads quiet, some shops closed, assumed we had to be flexible - not sure how crowded it might be.
DH wanted to see Lugano, so I played tour guide.
Walked down from station, that first view is amazing. What a welcome.
Down the old lanes, into the piazza (now without crane and truck) - what a difference a holiday makes! Children on scooters in the piazza, families having a late breakfast, more joggers and walkers, Aperol spritz’s at the outdoor dining, such a relaxed vibe.
Introduced him to the Gelateria I tried the other day, he had coffee gelato, I always have fragola.
Then a leisurely wander along the promenade, through the wonderful Parco Ciani
Brilliant idea - Sun loungers and chairs and books while in the park
DH after a hectic day…
Wonderful huge trees
The beach area
and on to the Monte Bre funicular.
Totally expecting long lines and abandoning the idea, but no, it was hop in, up we go. Fantastic.
A clear day, so wonderful views.
Great view from the path heading down to Bre, just 5 min downhill, but lots of steps.
Had a kebab on the promenade, kids fishing, people reading, beautiful day.
Only one day left in Locarno, we have sorted and distributed all our recycling, and are clearing out the fridge.
https://map.wanderland.ch/?lang=en&p...000&bgLayer=pk
Day 18: Locarno base (train to Lugano)Public holiday here
Roads quiet, some shops closed, assumed we had to be flexible - not sure how crowded it might be.
DH wanted to see Lugano, so I played tour guide.
Walked down from station, that first view is amazing. What a welcome.
Down the old lanes, into the piazza (now without crane and truck) - what a difference a holiday makes! Children on scooters in the piazza, families having a late breakfast, more joggers and walkers, Aperol spritz’s at the outdoor dining, such a relaxed vibe.
Introduced him to the Gelateria I tried the other day, he had coffee gelato, I always have fragola.
Then a leisurely wander along the promenade, through the wonderful Parco Ciani
Brilliant idea - Sun loungers and chairs and books while in the park
DH after a hectic day…
Wonderful huge trees
The beach area
and on to the Monte Bre funicular.
Totally expecting long lines and abandoning the idea, but no, it was hop in, up we go. Fantastic.
A clear day, so wonderful views.
Great view from the path heading down to Bre, just 5 min downhill, but lots of steps.
Had a kebab on the promenade, kids fishing, people reading, beautiful day.
Only one day left in Locarno, we have sorted and distributed all our recycling, and are clearing out the fridge.
Jun 8th, 2023, 11:53 AM
#99
Clearly you know some higher-ups in the weather god pantheon.
It's nice how you are adding maps. Also, the interactive map is great. I've seen that one before.
Thanks for sharing, glad all is well.
It's nice how you are adding maps. Also, the interactive map is great. I've seen that one before.
Thanks for sharing, glad all is well.
Jun 8th, 2023, 04:55 PM
#100
Adelaidean I saw some of the same things you did while in Lugano. I went into the Chiesa Santa Maria degli Angioli to see the frescoes and walked along the water edge with the flowers. I would go back in a heartbeat. I had one of the best pizza slices there too.
