Trip Report - Scotland & Yorkshire 2005
Jul 17th, 2005 | 07:17 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 17
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Trip Report - Scotland & Yorkshire 2005
Hello everyone. Haggis Girl and Tug Boat Guy are finally here to give you are trip report. We were gone 31 days so the report will be sent in different installments. I'd like to send along a few pictures so would appreciate someone (Mr. & Ms. GO?) letting us know how to do that.
Installment #1
Best decisions we made before we left:
1. to research our itinerary on Fodor's Talk Forum (Thank you everyone!)
2. to buy a digital camera
Two really good experiences:
1. seeing the croft house on North Uist where my paternal grandfather was born & raised & being welcomed by relatives we'd never met
2. staying on the left side of the road & managing to not hit any of the hundreds of sheep & lambs we saw
B&Bs we enjoyed the most:
1. Ballater, Scotland: Moorside Guest House
2. Penrith, Cumbria, England: Arendal Guest House
3. York, England: Four Seasons Hotel B&B
Castle we enjoyed the most: Blair
Best unplanned sites we saw:
1. stone bridge & waterfalls in Invermoriston, Scotland (junction of A887 & A82)
2. visiting the Folk Museum in Fochabers, Scotland
Best unplanned adventure:
buying a day pass for the buses in Edinburgh
What we'd do the same:
paying a bit more for the B&B but staying right in town when visiting the larger cities
What we'd do differently:
not drive in one day from Glasgow to Portree (you were right Sheila)
May 8th had finally arrived and today we were leaving for Scotland. We had traveled to England a few times before but this was our first trip to Scotland, our focus being to visit the Island of North Uist (Outer Hebrides) to visit relatives of Haggis Girl and see the croft house where her paternal grandfathr, his parents and six siblings had lived. We were not disappointed!
Packed & ready to go, three of Haggis Girl's girlfriends drove us to the airport. Poort Tub Boat Guy - like being in a henhouse. Check-in at the airport took hardly any time & when we finally went to our Gate, we found out that our plane hadn't even arrived yet due to strong head winds and some sort of Gate problems in Winnipeg. Anyways, we left about an hour late but due to good tail winds, arrived in Glasgow only about 10 minutes late. We flew with Zoom Airlines & were happy with the meals & service. Relatives who had insisted on guiding us out of Glasgow met us. We purchased two Great Britain Heritage Passes, picked up some travel brochures, picked up our rental car & off we drove. Stay on the left, stay on the left .....
After stopping a few times for sightseeing and tea we parted ways with our relatives (who we would stay with a little later in the trip) and continued on to Portree. Checked into our pre-booked B&B, went & found a place to eat, walked around the town and down to the harbour & were in bed by 7:30pm.
The next 2 days we ventured out over many roads (some are really goat trails!) & saw lots along the way. I'm sure we travled on almost every road and were amazed at how different the scenery can be on such a small island. In short distances you see forests, then high sharp bare mountains & then dark green mossy-like hills. It still amazes us. We drove by The Three Chimneys Restaurant (it's in the middle of nowhere) and went to the Glendale Toy Museum which we had been told was the best thing to see on the island. We beg to differ. It has a very small collection of old toys/games & although interesting, is not worth the price of the effort to get there. On the other hand, we had read on Fodor's Travel Talk Forum about the Skye Museum of Island Life in Kilmuir & agreed that it was worth seeing. Flora MacDonald's gravesite/burial statue is just behind and up the hill from the Skye Museum.
On May 12th after driving up the A855 (we'd already been on the A87) stopping at Kilt Rock (George Kennedy is still there selling his 'cottage scenes on flat rocks' paintings), Quaring (narrow but manageable hillside road if you're in a small car) and the Skye Museum of Island Life, we sailed from the pretty harbour of Uig to Lochmaddy. Sailing was smooth with the help of new better-stabilized ferries and good weather.
We had sent an E-mail to my relatives giving them a description of our car & the licence plate # as we were to be met there. It helped that one of them worked at the terminal. We were immediately flagged over to the parking lot & Haggis Girl met the first two of many relatives. Over the next 5 days/4 nights we put on 300 miles traveling up & down and all around the single track roads on North & South Uist, Benbecula & the Island of Berneray (apparently Prince Charle's fabourite). Haggis Girl met a lot of her relatives (either through marriage or blood) & is convinced that she is related to everyone - her geneaology research is now completed! The total population of North & South Uist is probably 3500-4000. We visited the award-winning Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum, the Hut of the Shadows (not working due to the hurricane), Flora MacDOnald's birthplace statue, saw the aftermath destruction of the January hurricane and of course Hosta - where my grandfather's croft house is. On our first visit to Hosta I found out that the house would be coming down this year so wasn't my timing good for making this the year to visit. Also saw the school he attended (Tigharry), the North Uist War Memorial and the cemetery where family members are buried. Not the usual tourist attractions but something you do when researching your family tree.
Instructions for finding the Hut of the Shadows (for Sheila in Aberdeen):
1. from the parking lot of the museum in Lochmaddy, turn right & follow the signs for the Uist Outdoor Centre & turn right at road end
2. at one point will have to walk over a wooden swinging bridge
Our weather was good - always windy but lots of blue sky. This is apparently not always the case so we felt lucky. It was also light out until very late at night. The islands are quite barren but there is a beauty to that & people do visit to go cycling or visit the nature reserves. They also have Highland Games in the summer. When the heather blooms it must be outstanding. There are lots of lakes (Lochs) & the beach at Hosta is beautiful. Although jobs are not plentiful & some people have left for better opportunities, there are some, even the younger ones, who would never leave.
Had meals at The Stepping Stones restaurant in Benbecula (pretty fancy) and the Dark Island Hotel pub. Enjoyed both places.
On May 16th after a great send off by the relatives, we sailed back to the Isle of Skye. We were met with stormy skies & hail. Drove through Skye & over the bridge (no more tolls) & stopped to walk through the Balmacara Estate & Lochalsh Woodland Garden. Then stopped to take a couple of photos at the Eileen Donan Castle. We then drove on to Ivermoriston where we stayed the night. This is where we discovered, in a small forest near the junctions of A887 and A82, beautiful trails, a wonderful stone bridge & equally wonderful waterfalls. If you're in the area, it's definately worth seeing. This is an area where a lot of walkers/hikers stay; very evident at our B&B which had a sauna for those tired aching bodies.
The nex day we drove on to Urquhart Castle. The short film we saw before touring the castle was good & although the skies opened up again with rain, hail & wind, we managed to see almost all the castle before retreating inside (our umbrella had blown inside out). We then drove on to Inverness where we managed to find a parking spot just behind the downtown part. We walked around, going into the large indoor market, up & down various streets and generally taking in the city's ambience. We then stopped at the Safeway's store for supplies - beer and bakery goods. Next stop was Culloden. Interesting site but felt that unless you went into the hall to view the film and listen to the commentator (soldier of the era) beforehand, the visit wouldn't be as meaningful. He was excellent as was the film. Wars over land. Nothing much has changed has it?
Next stop was Brodie Castle - arrive 15 minutes before it closed. It was good to find out that the doors closed at a certain time but you still had a good hour after that. Enjoyed this castle although the staff followed you around. After Brodie we drove to Forres and then on to a very small road & on to the Dallas Dhu Distillery where we went on a self-directed audio tour. Really interesting tour but after a full day we regrettably turned down the 'wee dram' at the end. Must be getting old. We drove back to Forres and found a nice B&B. Owner was a bit standoffish but the room and property was very nice. We also love animals but were not impressed with her having her two large dogs come into the breakfast room and rest their heads next to our plates. We felt she wanted her guests to eat & leave & the dogs were an incentive to do that. We had a very good supper at the Ramnee Hotel Pub (Tipplings) & would certainly recommend it. Great food & friendly service. After dinner we went for a walk & discovered the Sueno's Stone. There are lots of websites for this so if you're interested just put in Sueno's Stone into your search engine & go from there.
Next day we went to Elgin & visited the cathedral ruins which included walking up 134 rock stairs. Of course you know that that means climbing down the same 134 stairs. Great view. Then on to Spynie Palace (ruin) where we were the only people. Beautiful countryside all around. Then traveled south to Dufftown & visited Balvenie Castle (ruin) & saw the famour Glenfiddich Distillery across the road. We then traveled on various scenic B roads to Buckie, Findochty & on to Portknockie where we were to stay with relatives (the ones who met us in Glasgow). Beautiful views of nearby Cullen. Saw the Bow Fiddle ( photos available on the internet) & the Whale's Mouth, both rock formations. Also visited the harbour. Very picturesque town.
Next day we went for a drive along the coast (west on A98 as well as some B roads). TuG Boat Guy liked that someone else was doing the driving. We went to Buckie, Port Gordon (used to be the largest harbour in the area) & then on to Fochabers where we went to the Folk Museum (formerly the Pringle Memorial/United Free Church). What a treasure! The top floor is full of old horse buggies along with prams, an old wheelchair, part of a hearse as well as a display of wedding dresses, pictures & invitations. On the ground floor is a wonderful well put together display of old hosue & farming equipment, pictures, medals, clothing, ledger books, china, letters, postcards, etc. You could easily spend a whole afternoon (or day if you looked at every single item) here. Admission is by donation. Your donation allows them to further their work. They used to have a section on the ground floor where you could buy antiques but that is no longer there.
Next we drove on and into the Gordon Castle Park grounds where we saw the family house. Very wealthy family. Then drove on to the coastal road (A98) to Banff, Sandend, Macduff, & on to Fraserburgh. After supper Tub Boat Guy & my relative went out on a friend's boat to check the lobster creels. While staying here we had daily feasts of lobster, crab, haddock & scampi. Yummy but didn't want to check our cholesterol levels.
Next day we took the family dog for our dailt walk, this day to Cullen where we visited the Pet Cemetery. It's located near the ocean & is very well maintained by the caretaker. Each animal has their own memorial with different types of headstones (some professionally made), decorated with pictures & flowers. Afterwards we went to a local ice cream store which was supposed to be the best in the area (it was good) & then back to Portknockie. In the evening we drove up to a pub in Forres to attend a 'thank you to the volunteers' reception for the local SNP (Scottish National Party) candidate, Angus Robertson, who had won in that area. Winnie Ewing who was at one time the head of the SNP was there. Angus thanked us for coming all the way from Canada to attend. It was a fun evening.
Next day was more walks with the dog, a lobster lunch & getting ourselves ready to travel the next day.
End of Installment One. Stay tuned.
Haggis Girl & Tub Boat Guy
Installment #1
Best decisions we made before we left:
1. to research our itinerary on Fodor's Talk Forum (Thank you everyone!)
2. to buy a digital camera
Two really good experiences:
1. seeing the croft house on North Uist where my paternal grandfather was born & raised & being welcomed by relatives we'd never met
2. staying on the left side of the road & managing to not hit any of the hundreds of sheep & lambs we saw
B&Bs we enjoyed the most:
1. Ballater, Scotland: Moorside Guest House
2. Penrith, Cumbria, England: Arendal Guest House
3. York, England: Four Seasons Hotel B&B
Castle we enjoyed the most: Blair
Best unplanned sites we saw:
1. stone bridge & waterfalls in Invermoriston, Scotland (junction of A887 & A82)
2. visiting the Folk Museum in Fochabers, Scotland
Best unplanned adventure:
buying a day pass for the buses in Edinburgh
What we'd do the same:
paying a bit more for the B&B but staying right in town when visiting the larger cities
What we'd do differently:
not drive in one day from Glasgow to Portree (you were right Sheila)
May 8th had finally arrived and today we were leaving for Scotland. We had traveled to England a few times before but this was our first trip to Scotland, our focus being to visit the Island of North Uist (Outer Hebrides) to visit relatives of Haggis Girl and see the croft house where her paternal grandfathr, his parents and six siblings had lived. We were not disappointed!
Packed & ready to go, three of Haggis Girl's girlfriends drove us to the airport. Poort Tub Boat Guy - like being in a henhouse. Check-in at the airport took hardly any time & when we finally went to our Gate, we found out that our plane hadn't even arrived yet due to strong head winds and some sort of Gate problems in Winnipeg. Anyways, we left about an hour late but due to good tail winds, arrived in Glasgow only about 10 minutes late. We flew with Zoom Airlines & were happy with the meals & service. Relatives who had insisted on guiding us out of Glasgow met us. We purchased two Great Britain Heritage Passes, picked up some travel brochures, picked up our rental car & off we drove. Stay on the left, stay on the left .....
After stopping a few times for sightseeing and tea we parted ways with our relatives (who we would stay with a little later in the trip) and continued on to Portree. Checked into our pre-booked B&B, went & found a place to eat, walked around the town and down to the harbour & were in bed by 7:30pm.
The next 2 days we ventured out over many roads (some are really goat trails!) & saw lots along the way. I'm sure we travled on almost every road and were amazed at how different the scenery can be on such a small island. In short distances you see forests, then high sharp bare mountains & then dark green mossy-like hills. It still amazes us. We drove by The Three Chimneys Restaurant (it's in the middle of nowhere) and went to the Glendale Toy Museum which we had been told was the best thing to see on the island. We beg to differ. It has a very small collection of old toys/games & although interesting, is not worth the price of the effort to get there. On the other hand, we had read on Fodor's Travel Talk Forum about the Skye Museum of Island Life in Kilmuir & agreed that it was worth seeing. Flora MacDonald's gravesite/burial statue is just behind and up the hill from the Skye Museum.
On May 12th after driving up the A855 (we'd already been on the A87) stopping at Kilt Rock (George Kennedy is still there selling his 'cottage scenes on flat rocks' paintings), Quaring (narrow but manageable hillside road if you're in a small car) and the Skye Museum of Island Life, we sailed from the pretty harbour of Uig to Lochmaddy. Sailing was smooth with the help of new better-stabilized ferries and good weather.
We had sent an E-mail to my relatives giving them a description of our car & the licence plate # as we were to be met there. It helped that one of them worked at the terminal. We were immediately flagged over to the parking lot & Haggis Girl met the first two of many relatives. Over the next 5 days/4 nights we put on 300 miles traveling up & down and all around the single track roads on North & South Uist, Benbecula & the Island of Berneray (apparently Prince Charle's fabourite). Haggis Girl met a lot of her relatives (either through marriage or blood) & is convinced that she is related to everyone - her geneaology research is now completed! The total population of North & South Uist is probably 3500-4000. We visited the award-winning Taigh Chearsabhagh Museum, the Hut of the Shadows (not working due to the hurricane), Flora MacDOnald's birthplace statue, saw the aftermath destruction of the January hurricane and of course Hosta - where my grandfather's croft house is. On our first visit to Hosta I found out that the house would be coming down this year so wasn't my timing good for making this the year to visit. Also saw the school he attended (Tigharry), the North Uist War Memorial and the cemetery where family members are buried. Not the usual tourist attractions but something you do when researching your family tree.
Instructions for finding the Hut of the Shadows (for Sheila in Aberdeen):
1. from the parking lot of the museum in Lochmaddy, turn right & follow the signs for the Uist Outdoor Centre & turn right at road end
2. at one point will have to walk over a wooden swinging bridge
Our weather was good - always windy but lots of blue sky. This is apparently not always the case so we felt lucky. It was also light out until very late at night. The islands are quite barren but there is a beauty to that & people do visit to go cycling or visit the nature reserves. They also have Highland Games in the summer. When the heather blooms it must be outstanding. There are lots of lakes (Lochs) & the beach at Hosta is beautiful. Although jobs are not plentiful & some people have left for better opportunities, there are some, even the younger ones, who would never leave.
Had meals at The Stepping Stones restaurant in Benbecula (pretty fancy) and the Dark Island Hotel pub. Enjoyed both places.
On May 16th after a great send off by the relatives, we sailed back to the Isle of Skye. We were met with stormy skies & hail. Drove through Skye & over the bridge (no more tolls) & stopped to walk through the Balmacara Estate & Lochalsh Woodland Garden. Then stopped to take a couple of photos at the Eileen Donan Castle. We then drove on to Ivermoriston where we stayed the night. This is where we discovered, in a small forest near the junctions of A887 and A82, beautiful trails, a wonderful stone bridge & equally wonderful waterfalls. If you're in the area, it's definately worth seeing. This is an area where a lot of walkers/hikers stay; very evident at our B&B which had a sauna for those tired aching bodies.
The nex day we drove on to Urquhart Castle. The short film we saw before touring the castle was good & although the skies opened up again with rain, hail & wind, we managed to see almost all the castle before retreating inside (our umbrella had blown inside out). We then drove on to Inverness where we managed to find a parking spot just behind the downtown part. We walked around, going into the large indoor market, up & down various streets and generally taking in the city's ambience. We then stopped at the Safeway's store for supplies - beer and bakery goods. Next stop was Culloden. Interesting site but felt that unless you went into the hall to view the film and listen to the commentator (soldier of the era) beforehand, the visit wouldn't be as meaningful. He was excellent as was the film. Wars over land. Nothing much has changed has it?
Next stop was Brodie Castle - arrive 15 minutes before it closed. It was good to find out that the doors closed at a certain time but you still had a good hour after that. Enjoyed this castle although the staff followed you around. After Brodie we drove to Forres and then on to a very small road & on to the Dallas Dhu Distillery where we went on a self-directed audio tour. Really interesting tour but after a full day we regrettably turned down the 'wee dram' at the end. Must be getting old. We drove back to Forres and found a nice B&B. Owner was a bit standoffish but the room and property was very nice. We also love animals but were not impressed with her having her two large dogs come into the breakfast room and rest their heads next to our plates. We felt she wanted her guests to eat & leave & the dogs were an incentive to do that. We had a very good supper at the Ramnee Hotel Pub (Tipplings) & would certainly recommend it. Great food & friendly service. After dinner we went for a walk & discovered the Sueno's Stone. There are lots of websites for this so if you're interested just put in Sueno's Stone into your search engine & go from there.
Next day we went to Elgin & visited the cathedral ruins which included walking up 134 rock stairs. Of course you know that that means climbing down the same 134 stairs. Great view. Then on to Spynie Palace (ruin) where we were the only people. Beautiful countryside all around. Then traveled south to Dufftown & visited Balvenie Castle (ruin) & saw the famour Glenfiddich Distillery across the road. We then traveled on various scenic B roads to Buckie, Findochty & on to Portknockie where we were to stay with relatives (the ones who met us in Glasgow). Beautiful views of nearby Cullen. Saw the Bow Fiddle ( photos available on the internet) & the Whale's Mouth, both rock formations. Also visited the harbour. Very picturesque town.
Next day we went for a drive along the coast (west on A98 as well as some B roads). TuG Boat Guy liked that someone else was doing the driving. We went to Buckie, Port Gordon (used to be the largest harbour in the area) & then on to Fochabers where we went to the Folk Museum (formerly the Pringle Memorial/United Free Church). What a treasure! The top floor is full of old horse buggies along with prams, an old wheelchair, part of a hearse as well as a display of wedding dresses, pictures & invitations. On the ground floor is a wonderful well put together display of old hosue & farming equipment, pictures, medals, clothing, ledger books, china, letters, postcards, etc. You could easily spend a whole afternoon (or day if you looked at every single item) here. Admission is by donation. Your donation allows them to further their work. They used to have a section on the ground floor where you could buy antiques but that is no longer there.
Next we drove on and into the Gordon Castle Park grounds where we saw the family house. Very wealthy family. Then drove on to the coastal road (A98) to Banff, Sandend, Macduff, & on to Fraserburgh. After supper Tub Boat Guy & my relative went out on a friend's boat to check the lobster creels. While staying here we had daily feasts of lobster, crab, haddock & scampi. Yummy but didn't want to check our cholesterol levels.
Next day we took the family dog for our dailt walk, this day to Cullen where we visited the Pet Cemetery. It's located near the ocean & is very well maintained by the caretaker. Each animal has their own memorial with different types of headstones (some professionally made), decorated with pictures & flowers. Afterwards we went to a local ice cream store which was supposed to be the best in the area (it was good) & then back to Portknockie. In the evening we drove up to a pub in Forres to attend a 'thank you to the volunteers' reception for the local SNP (Scottish National Party) candidate, Angus Robertson, who had won in that area. Winnie Ewing who was at one time the head of the SNP was there. Angus thanked us for coming all the way from Canada to attend. It was a fun evening.
Next day was more walks with the dog, a lobster lunch & getting ourselves ready to travel the next day.
End of Installment One. Stay tuned.
Haggis Girl & Tub Boat Guy
Jul 18th, 2005 | 03:55 AM
#4
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Haggis Girl, what a wonderful trip report. We too were in many of the places you visited the beginning of May (ate at the Three Chimmneys and it is in the middle of no where, but definately worth it; and they have even sent me several recipes I've requested by email since we returned). Please continue when you can. You've inspired me to go back and finish my report now that I have some time.
Agree about the digital camera purchase....didn't think I"d like it but it was great.
Agree about the digital camera purchase....didn't think I"d like it but it was great.
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Jul 18th, 2005 | 10:36 AM
#8
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
My family will be in Scotland and London from July 31-Aug. 11th. We will fly from Edinburgh to London on the 8th and stay in London until the 11th. We were too slow to book anything in Edinburgh due to the festival (we were there 3 yrs. ago and had a blast) so now we have 3 unplanned days in Scotland before we leave for London. Any suggestions of someplace close to the airport in Edinburgh where we can spend a day or two-- maybe close enough to Edinburgh to drive in for one day of festival fun?
Jul 18th, 2005 | 01:28 PM
#9
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,159
Likes: 0
debnwade; whilst I'd suggest you take this to another thread, one option would be Fife, and anither would be central perthsire- maybe based on Dunkeld. What do you think?
thanks for the directions, haggisgirl. I WILL find the Hut of the Shadows next time I'm in Lochmaddy.
thanks for the directions, haggisgirl. I WILL find the Hut of the Shadows next time I'm in Lochmaddy.
Jul 18th, 2005 | 08:18 PM
#10
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Installment #2 of our trip report (Scotland & Yorkshire) from Haggis Girl & Tug Boat Guy.
May 22nd: we left Portknockie & traveled south towards Aberdeen & then on to A93. First stop was the Drum Castle. We hit it lucky as they were having a special event with medieval dancing, sword fighting & food preparation in "ye old days". We thought this castle was worth seeing. We then drove through some very lovely areas, following the River Dee. Next stop was Craithes Castle. We then drove on to the small town of Ballater where we decided to stay the night at the Moorside Guest House B&B. It is run by Pieter & Lea Faber. This is one of the 3 B&Bs that we especially liked. The room was nice & clean & big enough without stepping over luggage or each othe. The breakfast breads & jams were all home-made & Pieter who we had all our dealings with was very pleasant & welcoming. Settled in, went for pizza & walked around this interesting little town.
Next day we headed for Balmoral Castle but were too early so after hanging around the bridge at the entrance to the property & getting the evil eye from staff we drove on to Braemar Castle. Even though it was after starting hours there was no one there so after walking around for a bit we headed back to Balmoral. When you are that close and two of your grandparents were born in England, you just had to go back. One can spend all day here roaming through the massive grounds but the weather was on and off rain so we spent some time going through the stables, which had displays, back garden & one room that is open to the public and then left. It's a bit of a distance from the castle to the entrance gate so we felt that we had done it justice by seeing just how vast this property is. Haggis Girl also went inside Craithe Church which is where the Queen & family attend services when staying at Balmoral.
Continued on the A93, then the B950 & then A924, stopping for a bit in Pitlochry which is a quaint & busy tourist town. We eventually spent the night here (and walked around more after dinner) but in the meantime visited Blair Castle - a Fodor's favourite & we can see why. It's outstanding.
Next day we headed south on the A9 to Perth & the Scone Palace - another great attraction. We then continued along over the Forth Road Bridge which crosses over the Firth of Forth (still with me?) & entered the city of Edinburgh. The instructions given to us by the B&B were not good but with the help of a taxi driver & a guy giving out parking tickets (hey, we were desperate!) we found our way. Our room at the B&B was very large & had a wonderful bay window. There was also a bus stop practically right outside that would take us downtown. We settled in & then started on what turned out to be a death march, up to the Royal Mile & on to Holyrood Palace. When we got there we weren't permitted in as Lord 'something or other' was in town so it was closed. Our request to telephone him & explain that we were only in town for 3 days & how about some flexibility, for some reason didn't work. We did go into the Queen's Gallery though & took a couple of pictures of the Palace. We then continued on to High Street & then on our return stopped into a pub for dinner. And then we walked back to our B&B. Our feet requested that we not do that again!
May 25th:rain & wind. Had breakfast & bought two all day bus passes (2.30 pounds each). Tug Boat Guy had found an excellent pamphlet with all the colour-coded bus routes so off we went. First stop was to Edinburgh Castle. Although the weather wasn't good, when you're away you just have to get out there. Besides, being from Vancouver, we're used to rain. Spent quite awhile at the castle including visiting the excellent Military Museum & Chapel of Remembrance which has many individual monuments to the different forces (Navy, Queen's Guard, etc.) as well as large books containing the names of those who had died in the first & second world wars. Looked through a few to see if I could find the names of my grandfather's two brothers but not knowing what regiment they had been in hindered that search. Regardless, it was enough just to be there. After the castle we spent some time going in & out of stores (well actually Haggis Girl did that while Tug Boat Guy hung out outside admiring the views). After accessing our E-mail we boarded a bus to Princes Street & then another one out to Leith to see the Royal Yacht Britannia. On our return trip we continued our walk along Princes Street & surrounding area & had dinner at De Niro's. Tug Boat Guy isn't a great fan of curry & we'd had a lot of fish earlier in our trip so Italian it was. Food was okay but headwaiter was annoying & we could hardly wait to get out of there.
Next day we bought another all day bus pass & headed back to Princes Street. Walked to Charlotte Square & to Georgian House which was very interesting & worthwhile. Our Great Britain Heritage Pass is well worth it. We then walked back towards the castle & took a few pictures as the sun was out today. There is a very large & beautiful park at the base of the castle where people were enjoying themselves. There is also an area in the park where outdoor concerts are held. So nice to have such a lovely park in the middle of the city. We then hopped on to another bus, this one traveling to the northeast part of the city. Great one-hour bus ride. Saw the Firth of Forth as well as some interesting neighbourhoods. By the time we were off the bus we were too late to visit one of the museums & also too late to visit the Scottish Parliament (quite the architectural building). Took a couple of more buses & ended up having a great meal at the Southsider Pub.
Enjoyed Edinburgh very much; lots to see and enjoy. As in any large city, there was a large number of street people, some with animals, and lots of surveilance cameras. The street people, except the odd time, went about their lives with their friends.
May 27th: rain. Left Edinburgh for Sterling. Arrived at our B&B, settled in & then walked to both the bus & train stations to inquire about going to Glasgow for the day. Afterwards we walked through part of the city centre & on to the castle. Was very rainy & windy but you can't let that hold you back. After the castle we went to Argyll's Lodging which used to be a private residence & then a Youth Hostel. Very interesting place. Went for dinner at the Drouthy Neebors Pub. Good food but have to be there early as it's small & fills up fast.
May 28th: rain & wind. Another very rainy day. We decided to do some circle driving tours as recommended on Fodor's so after breakfast we set off for Doune Castle (A873). It was mostly a ruin but still interesting. Continued on to Aberfoyle where we stopped for awhile (went to look up a relative of a good friend) & then onto Callendar where we also stopped & walked around. We got on to the A84 to almost Creiff & to the Drummond Gardens. A little hard to find but well worth the search. Today we drove on many roads & saw lots of great scenery but decided to leave the area because of the rain. We had hoped to go back to Blair Castle for a Highland Games but the thought of standing in the rain for long periods of time was not appealing. We actually have a few back in the Vancouver area but of course wanted to experience one in Scotland. Oh well - next time. Explained situation to the lady who ran our B&B & she was fine with our decision. Had dinner at Pancho Villas on King Street & enjoyed it very much, especially the Coronas.
May 29th: cloudy with some blue skies: Headed for northern England today - a bank holiday. Took the turn off for Hadrian's Wall & had a pleasant drive through small villages & countryside to get to the actual site. There was a special event at the Fort & the place was packed. Afterwards we drove through the resort villages of the Lake District. It was wall-to-wall people & cars. Ended up in Penrith & found a B&B (Ardenal Guest House) through the Information Centre. Although it is up a hill & not the closest B&B to town it's still within easy walking distance & run by a great couple. They are new to the B&B business & are enthusiastic about giving you any information you wish to make your trip good for you. We followed their suggestion for a walk to see a good view of the valley & it was bang on. We also enjoyed walking through the quiet neighbourhood & saying hello to horses & cats along the way. Had supper at the Waverley Inn bar which we'd heard (afterwards) didn't have a great reputation for their food but we found it good. New management; place was full. After dinner we walked up & down the streets before heading back to our B&B.
May 30th: blue skies & clouds. Next day we headed south to stay with English relatives of Haggis Girl in a teeny tiny village near Settle. The house we stayed in was built in 1690 & has a ghost. Used to be a working farm but they now have only a couple of cows, some chickens & geese & 3 cats.
Over the next 2 days they drove us through most of the Yorkshire Dales over many unnamed roads, driving through & soemtimes stopping at the tiny villages along the way. We saw beautiful rolling hills, buttercup fields, old quaint houses, bridges & viaducts. We saw where Dr. James Herriott's TV shows were filmed (Askrigg, Wensleydale), where some of the photos were taken for both The Calendar Girls movie & actual calendar (and even where the photographer lives) as well as two sets of waterfalls. We also stopped & took a peak at the Butter Tubs (near Thwaite) which is an unusual group of deep holes in the limestone. Two tales as to the name: one because the farmers from Muker, returning from Hawes Market, lowered their unsold butter in baskets deep inside the chasms to keep it cool, retrieving it the following week on the way back to the market; the other that the limestone columns which separate the holes resemble old-fashioned butter tubs. Whichever, you don't want to fall into one of these openings. It's amazing countryside & we were fortunate to be with relatives who knew the area well. Had a picnic lunch by the river, shooed the bunnies off the road & drove slowly when sharing the road with cows. Of the two waterfalls we saw, the one that we didn't pay for (Upper Aysgarth Falls) we enjoyed the most. Aysgarth, in upper Wensleydale lies on the southern banks of the River Ure. From the stone bridge, circa 1539, you can see these Falls. The ones we paid for were called Harddraw Force which is supposed to be England's highest waterfall above ground. I guess the water levels were low that day because it was far from interesting. You reach the waterfalls through an Inn. Don't bother. Haggis Girl also managed to exchange family tree information, late into the night, with her relatives.
June 1st: raining. Had breakfast, said our good-byes & made our way to York & to the Four Seasons Hotel B&B which was highly recommended on Fodor's Travel Talk Forum. A family member of the owners met us & he immediately made us feel comfortable. Settled into our room & then ventured off to the Railway Museum - an absolute gem! We spent quite awhile there (Tug Boat Guy's father was a train engineer)& probably would have stayed longer but the kids were off this week (mid term break) & it was so crowded that you could hardly move in some areas. This museum is so well organized & the displays so well presented we were amazed it was free. It is a very large museum. We'd go again if in the area. Wandered through town & bought a couple of 'on the run' things at Bett's Bakery & Tearoom & then wandered off to The Shambles. Went on a Ghost Tour that evening & afterwards enjoyed a meal at the Balri Italian restaurant.
June 2nd: rain off & on. Today was another full day in York. Visited Clifton's Tower (good view considering the weather), Fairfax House, Merchants Hall & Minister Cathedral. Went to the Jorvik Centre twice but the lineups were way too long so had to bypass. Went back to our B&B to rest our weary feet & then back to Minister Cathedral for the 5pm Even Song (Evening Song). There was a visiting choir this particular evening & much pageantry as the choir & two ministers entered the area where the service was to be held. Each of the ministers gave a sermon. Was an enjoyable experience. The Cathedral is absolutely beautiful & the crypts well worth seeing. Went for dinner afterwards at The Hole in the Wall pub & then back to the B&B to rest our feet & get ready for moving on tomorrow.
JUne 3rd: cloudy. Today we drove to Harome, a small picturesque village near Helmsley, in the North York Moors. Harome is noted for the award winning Star Inn Pub. We were staying with relatives, who we'd stayed with before & who have stayed with us in Canada, so this would be a relaxing stay with no more castles or all day walks. In past years we had ventured around the area on B roads & along the coastal roads to Scarborough, Robin Hood's Bay, Whitby (great town), Redcar, etc. Their cottage, which they completely renovated, is at least 200 years old & has a wonderful garden - just what we needed after so much touring & walking. The timing was also perfect to see their daughter who was coming home for a week's vacation from the Isle of Man. She had also stayed with us in Canada so it was like old home week.
JUne 5th: cloudy. We all drove to Northallerton (which also has a Betty's Bakery & Tearoom) & had Tea to celebrate a relative's birthday. This is also where we'd be spending the next two days.
Next day we went up to High Street for some exercise & to window shop. Northallerton is a nice little market town not too far from Thirsk which is where Dr. James Herriott's veterinary practice was.
June 7th: we headed out & stayed in Altrincham, about a 10-minute drive from Manchester, as that is where we were flying out of the next day. Walked around the town, ventured through the outdoor amrket & later in the evening had a very good & plentiful meal at one of the local pubs.
The next day we made our way to the airport, dropped off our car & checked in. Had a smooth flight home although with headwinds, it was close to 9.5 hours.
Got home, took the luggage right to the washing machine, opened the windows & plopped down. We had had a really great trip but after 31 days away, it was good to be home.
RECAP:
Although it seems that we saw alot of castles (Tug Boat Guy doesn't want to see another one for quite awhile, walked many miles & put about 2000 miles on our car, we feel that our trip was balanced between seeing what we wanted to see & resting along the way. There are a few thing we didn't see, either because of the weather or not enough time to do it justice. We are very grateful for all the genuine, helpful suggestions/ideas that people gave us on the Fodor's Travel Talk Forum & for speaking up when they thought we were crazy. Haggis Girl & Tug Boat Guy hope that people will enjoy our report & perhaps get some travel ideas from it.
Cheers!
May 22nd: we left Portknockie & traveled south towards Aberdeen & then on to A93. First stop was the Drum Castle. We hit it lucky as they were having a special event with medieval dancing, sword fighting & food preparation in "ye old days". We thought this castle was worth seeing. We then drove through some very lovely areas, following the River Dee. Next stop was Craithes Castle. We then drove on to the small town of Ballater where we decided to stay the night at the Moorside Guest House B&B. It is run by Pieter & Lea Faber. This is one of the 3 B&Bs that we especially liked. The room was nice & clean & big enough without stepping over luggage or each othe. The breakfast breads & jams were all home-made & Pieter who we had all our dealings with was very pleasant & welcoming. Settled in, went for pizza & walked around this interesting little town.
Next day we headed for Balmoral Castle but were too early so after hanging around the bridge at the entrance to the property & getting the evil eye from staff we drove on to Braemar Castle. Even though it was after starting hours there was no one there so after walking around for a bit we headed back to Balmoral. When you are that close and two of your grandparents were born in England, you just had to go back. One can spend all day here roaming through the massive grounds but the weather was on and off rain so we spent some time going through the stables, which had displays, back garden & one room that is open to the public and then left. It's a bit of a distance from the castle to the entrance gate so we felt that we had done it justice by seeing just how vast this property is. Haggis Girl also went inside Craithe Church which is where the Queen & family attend services when staying at Balmoral.
Continued on the A93, then the B950 & then A924, stopping for a bit in Pitlochry which is a quaint & busy tourist town. We eventually spent the night here (and walked around more after dinner) but in the meantime visited Blair Castle - a Fodor's favourite & we can see why. It's outstanding.
Next day we headed south on the A9 to Perth & the Scone Palace - another great attraction. We then continued along over the Forth Road Bridge which crosses over the Firth of Forth (still with me?) & entered the city of Edinburgh. The instructions given to us by the B&B were not good but with the help of a taxi driver & a guy giving out parking tickets (hey, we were desperate!) we found our way. Our room at the B&B was very large & had a wonderful bay window. There was also a bus stop practically right outside that would take us downtown. We settled in & then started on what turned out to be a death march, up to the Royal Mile & on to Holyrood Palace. When we got there we weren't permitted in as Lord 'something or other' was in town so it was closed. Our request to telephone him & explain that we were only in town for 3 days & how about some flexibility, for some reason didn't work. We did go into the Queen's Gallery though & took a couple of pictures of the Palace. We then continued on to High Street & then on our return stopped into a pub for dinner. And then we walked back to our B&B. Our feet requested that we not do that again!
May 25th:rain & wind. Had breakfast & bought two all day bus passes (2.30 pounds each). Tug Boat Guy had found an excellent pamphlet with all the colour-coded bus routes so off we went. First stop was to Edinburgh Castle. Although the weather wasn't good, when you're away you just have to get out there. Besides, being from Vancouver, we're used to rain. Spent quite awhile at the castle including visiting the excellent Military Museum & Chapel of Remembrance which has many individual monuments to the different forces (Navy, Queen's Guard, etc.) as well as large books containing the names of those who had died in the first & second world wars. Looked through a few to see if I could find the names of my grandfather's two brothers but not knowing what regiment they had been in hindered that search. Regardless, it was enough just to be there. After the castle we spent some time going in & out of stores (well actually Haggis Girl did that while Tug Boat Guy hung out outside admiring the views). After accessing our E-mail we boarded a bus to Princes Street & then another one out to Leith to see the Royal Yacht Britannia. On our return trip we continued our walk along Princes Street & surrounding area & had dinner at De Niro's. Tug Boat Guy isn't a great fan of curry & we'd had a lot of fish earlier in our trip so Italian it was. Food was okay but headwaiter was annoying & we could hardly wait to get out of there.
Next day we bought another all day bus pass & headed back to Princes Street. Walked to Charlotte Square & to Georgian House which was very interesting & worthwhile. Our Great Britain Heritage Pass is well worth it. We then walked back towards the castle & took a few pictures as the sun was out today. There is a very large & beautiful park at the base of the castle where people were enjoying themselves. There is also an area in the park where outdoor concerts are held. So nice to have such a lovely park in the middle of the city. We then hopped on to another bus, this one traveling to the northeast part of the city. Great one-hour bus ride. Saw the Firth of Forth as well as some interesting neighbourhoods. By the time we were off the bus we were too late to visit one of the museums & also too late to visit the Scottish Parliament (quite the architectural building). Took a couple of more buses & ended up having a great meal at the Southsider Pub.
Enjoyed Edinburgh very much; lots to see and enjoy. As in any large city, there was a large number of street people, some with animals, and lots of surveilance cameras. The street people, except the odd time, went about their lives with their friends.
May 27th: rain. Left Edinburgh for Sterling. Arrived at our B&B, settled in & then walked to both the bus & train stations to inquire about going to Glasgow for the day. Afterwards we walked through part of the city centre & on to the castle. Was very rainy & windy but you can't let that hold you back. After the castle we went to Argyll's Lodging which used to be a private residence & then a Youth Hostel. Very interesting place. Went for dinner at the Drouthy Neebors Pub. Good food but have to be there early as it's small & fills up fast.
May 28th: rain & wind. Another very rainy day. We decided to do some circle driving tours as recommended on Fodor's so after breakfast we set off for Doune Castle (A873). It was mostly a ruin but still interesting. Continued on to Aberfoyle where we stopped for awhile (went to look up a relative of a good friend) & then onto Callendar where we also stopped & walked around. We got on to the A84 to almost Creiff & to the Drummond Gardens. A little hard to find but well worth the search. Today we drove on many roads & saw lots of great scenery but decided to leave the area because of the rain. We had hoped to go back to Blair Castle for a Highland Games but the thought of standing in the rain for long periods of time was not appealing. We actually have a few back in the Vancouver area but of course wanted to experience one in Scotland. Oh well - next time. Explained situation to the lady who ran our B&B & she was fine with our decision. Had dinner at Pancho Villas on King Street & enjoyed it very much, especially the Coronas.
May 29th: cloudy with some blue skies: Headed for northern England today - a bank holiday. Took the turn off for Hadrian's Wall & had a pleasant drive through small villages & countryside to get to the actual site. There was a special event at the Fort & the place was packed. Afterwards we drove through the resort villages of the Lake District. It was wall-to-wall people & cars. Ended up in Penrith & found a B&B (Ardenal Guest House) through the Information Centre. Although it is up a hill & not the closest B&B to town it's still within easy walking distance & run by a great couple. They are new to the B&B business & are enthusiastic about giving you any information you wish to make your trip good for you. We followed their suggestion for a walk to see a good view of the valley & it was bang on. We also enjoyed walking through the quiet neighbourhood & saying hello to horses & cats along the way. Had supper at the Waverley Inn bar which we'd heard (afterwards) didn't have a great reputation for their food but we found it good. New management; place was full. After dinner we walked up & down the streets before heading back to our B&B.
May 30th: blue skies & clouds. Next day we headed south to stay with English relatives of Haggis Girl in a teeny tiny village near Settle. The house we stayed in was built in 1690 & has a ghost. Used to be a working farm but they now have only a couple of cows, some chickens & geese & 3 cats.
Over the next 2 days they drove us through most of the Yorkshire Dales over many unnamed roads, driving through & soemtimes stopping at the tiny villages along the way. We saw beautiful rolling hills, buttercup fields, old quaint houses, bridges & viaducts. We saw where Dr. James Herriott's TV shows were filmed (Askrigg, Wensleydale), where some of the photos were taken for both The Calendar Girls movie & actual calendar (and even where the photographer lives) as well as two sets of waterfalls. We also stopped & took a peak at the Butter Tubs (near Thwaite) which is an unusual group of deep holes in the limestone. Two tales as to the name: one because the farmers from Muker, returning from Hawes Market, lowered their unsold butter in baskets deep inside the chasms to keep it cool, retrieving it the following week on the way back to the market; the other that the limestone columns which separate the holes resemble old-fashioned butter tubs. Whichever, you don't want to fall into one of these openings. It's amazing countryside & we were fortunate to be with relatives who knew the area well. Had a picnic lunch by the river, shooed the bunnies off the road & drove slowly when sharing the road with cows. Of the two waterfalls we saw, the one that we didn't pay for (Upper Aysgarth Falls) we enjoyed the most. Aysgarth, in upper Wensleydale lies on the southern banks of the River Ure. From the stone bridge, circa 1539, you can see these Falls. The ones we paid for were called Harddraw Force which is supposed to be England's highest waterfall above ground. I guess the water levels were low that day because it was far from interesting. You reach the waterfalls through an Inn. Don't bother. Haggis Girl also managed to exchange family tree information, late into the night, with her relatives.
June 1st: raining. Had breakfast, said our good-byes & made our way to York & to the Four Seasons Hotel B&B which was highly recommended on Fodor's Travel Talk Forum. A family member of the owners met us & he immediately made us feel comfortable. Settled into our room & then ventured off to the Railway Museum - an absolute gem! We spent quite awhile there (Tug Boat Guy's father was a train engineer)& probably would have stayed longer but the kids were off this week (mid term break) & it was so crowded that you could hardly move in some areas. This museum is so well organized & the displays so well presented we were amazed it was free. It is a very large museum. We'd go again if in the area. Wandered through town & bought a couple of 'on the run' things at Bett's Bakery & Tearoom & then wandered off to The Shambles. Went on a Ghost Tour that evening & afterwards enjoyed a meal at the Balri Italian restaurant.
June 2nd: rain off & on. Today was another full day in York. Visited Clifton's Tower (good view considering the weather), Fairfax House, Merchants Hall & Minister Cathedral. Went to the Jorvik Centre twice but the lineups were way too long so had to bypass. Went back to our B&B to rest our weary feet & then back to Minister Cathedral for the 5pm Even Song (Evening Song). There was a visiting choir this particular evening & much pageantry as the choir & two ministers entered the area where the service was to be held. Each of the ministers gave a sermon. Was an enjoyable experience. The Cathedral is absolutely beautiful & the crypts well worth seeing. Went for dinner afterwards at The Hole in the Wall pub & then back to the B&B to rest our feet & get ready for moving on tomorrow.
JUne 3rd: cloudy. Today we drove to Harome, a small picturesque village near Helmsley, in the North York Moors. Harome is noted for the award winning Star Inn Pub. We were staying with relatives, who we'd stayed with before & who have stayed with us in Canada, so this would be a relaxing stay with no more castles or all day walks. In past years we had ventured around the area on B roads & along the coastal roads to Scarborough, Robin Hood's Bay, Whitby (great town), Redcar, etc. Their cottage, which they completely renovated, is at least 200 years old & has a wonderful garden - just what we needed after so much touring & walking. The timing was also perfect to see their daughter who was coming home for a week's vacation from the Isle of Man. She had also stayed with us in Canada so it was like old home week.
JUne 5th: cloudy. We all drove to Northallerton (which also has a Betty's Bakery & Tearoom) & had Tea to celebrate a relative's birthday. This is also where we'd be spending the next two days.
Next day we went up to High Street for some exercise & to window shop. Northallerton is a nice little market town not too far from Thirsk which is where Dr. James Herriott's veterinary practice was.
June 7th: we headed out & stayed in Altrincham, about a 10-minute drive from Manchester, as that is where we were flying out of the next day. Walked around the town, ventured through the outdoor amrket & later in the evening had a very good & plentiful meal at one of the local pubs.
The next day we made our way to the airport, dropped off our car & checked in. Had a smooth flight home although with headwinds, it was close to 9.5 hours.
Got home, took the luggage right to the washing machine, opened the windows & plopped down. We had had a really great trip but after 31 days away, it was good to be home.
RECAP:
Although it seems that we saw alot of castles (Tug Boat Guy doesn't want to see another one for quite awhile, walked many miles & put about 2000 miles on our car, we feel that our trip was balanced between seeing what we wanted to see & resting along the way. There are a few thing we didn't see, either because of the weather or not enough time to do it justice. We are very grateful for all the genuine, helpful suggestions/ideas that people gave us on the Fodor's Travel Talk Forum & for speaking up when they thought we were crazy. Haggis Girl & Tug Boat Guy hope that people will enjoy our report & perhaps get some travel ideas from it.
Cheers!
Jul 19th, 2005 | 03:49 AM
#13
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,282
Likes: 0
Enjoyed your report very much, haggisgirl, thanks. It sounds very well planned with a great mixture of activities. Sorry you weren't lucky with the weather. Which B&B did you stay at, in Edinburgh - sounds like it was probably on Dalkeith Road or Craigmillar Park, judging by where you had dinner ? Will you recommend it to others ?
Jul 19th, 2005 | 09:28 AM
#14
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Hi Caroline,
In Edinburgh we stayed at the MW Guesthouse at 94 Dalkeith Road. As far as location it is very good as we did walk into the centre of town - once - and the bus stop is right there. Our room was large and although on a main road was quiet when the windows were closed. We knew we'd be on a main road so aren't complaining about traffic noise. As far as recommending this place I have mixed feelings. The 'lady of the house' May, was very pleasant & would come into the breakfast room each morning to speak with each couple and seemed genuinely interested in you and your stay in Edinburgh. Her husband was not as friendly (not rude; just not friendly)and I found the room a bit dirtier in spots than expected. There was also no bathroom sink plug & the small light over the sink was burned out. Even after requesting very nicely that these two items be fixed, it was never done over our 3 day stay. Breakfasts, compared to alot of other places we stayed, was also so-so.
In Edinburgh we stayed at the MW Guesthouse at 94 Dalkeith Road. As far as location it is very good as we did walk into the centre of town - once - and the bus stop is right there. Our room was large and although on a main road was quiet when the windows were closed. We knew we'd be on a main road so aren't complaining about traffic noise. As far as recommending this place I have mixed feelings. The 'lady of the house' May, was very pleasant & would come into the breakfast room each morning to speak with each couple and seemed genuinely interested in you and your stay in Edinburgh. Her husband was not as friendly (not rude; just not friendly)and I found the room a bit dirtier in spots than expected. There was also no bathroom sink plug & the small light over the sink was burned out. Even after requesting very nicely that these two items be fixed, it was never done over our 3 day stay. Breakfasts, compared to alot of other places we stayed, was also so-so.
Jul 20th, 2005 | 03:26 AM
#15
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,282
Likes: 0
Hi haggisgirl. Oh, sorry it wasn't nicer. Still, could have been worse, I suppose - and it sounds like you have mainly very good memories so I'm glad of that. Haste ye back !
BTW it seems you arrived in Edinburgh just the day after I had a mini GTG with sallyjane3 : shame we didn't meet you too.
BTW it seems you arrived in Edinburgh just the day after I had a mini GTG with sallyjane3 : shame we didn't meet you too.
