Trip Report, Rome with Kids, part 2
May 3rd, 2003, 05:43 PM
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Trip Report, Rome with Kids, part 2
Restaurants
All of the following restaurants were child-friendly and had enough choices available on the menu that the girls could choose something they liked. Two places did not have a menu but what the chef was making that day was more than all right with the Principesse.
Il Sanpietrino. Piazza Costaguti 15. Located in a quiet piazza in the Ghetto, the restaurant is tucked into a tiny corner and is hard to spot. You must ring a bell to be admitted. We had reservations for lunch and they were expecting us. Only one other table was occupied on this Good Friday afternoon. It is the newest member of Buon Ricordo in Rome. Avid collectors of the plates, we were anxious to try the specialty, Pennerelli e ceci, which was tender strips of beef, vegetables and chick peas in a spicy tomato sauce. The dish was delicious, if a bit salty. The owner of the restaurant is very friendly and accommodating. Because of the holiday, he offered to make the dish with shrimp instead of beef, but we wanted to try the authentic version. The girls, coming off a long plane trip, were too jet lagged to eat much but managed half portions of spaghetti con sugo di pomodoro. G and I split the mixed antipasto of fried artichokes, fried eggplant stuffed with goat cheese, fried fresh anchovy, and a tiny mixed green salad with balsamic vinegar dressing. All delicious. While G had the Buon Ricordo dish, I had gnocchi with clams and shrimp which was excellent. White wine, water, orangina for the girls and two cafes. Total bill 95 Euro.
Hosteria Ulderico. Via San Giovanni Laterano across from the church of San Clemente. We had dinner here Good Friday night. When we arrived at 8:30 the place had one open table in the back room. This is a very basic, down to earth place that serves excellent food at extremely reasonable prices. We were the only tourists there. The girls and I shared proscuitto e melone. They had a veal cutlet and some very delicious roasted potatoes. I followed with fritto misto di mare; very generous amount of fresh fish, shrimp and calamari. G started with tortelloni and chick pea soup and also the frito misto. White house wine, water and Sprites. Total bill, 65 Euro.
Trattoria dar Pallaro. Largo di Pallaro. Near Campo dei Fiori. We have been here several times and always enjoy it. This is the girls' favorite restaurant in Rome. There is no menu; you get what Mama Paola is cooking that day. Saturday afternoon it was: Antipasti of proscuitto, mozzarella di bufala, white beans, olives, chicory, veal suppli and rice suppli. Primo of rigatoni con sugo di pomodoro and copious amounts of cheese. Secundo was roast pork and thin, crisp homemade potato chips. Peach cake for dessert served with a small glass of fresh squeezed mandarin orange juice. White wine, water and coke. Total bill 60 Euro.
All of the following restaurants were child-friendly and had enough choices available on the menu that the girls could choose something they liked. Two places did not have a menu but what the chef was making that day was more than all right with the Principesse.
Il Sanpietrino. Piazza Costaguti 15. Located in a quiet piazza in the Ghetto, the restaurant is tucked into a tiny corner and is hard to spot. You must ring a bell to be admitted. We had reservations for lunch and they were expecting us. Only one other table was occupied on this Good Friday afternoon. It is the newest member of Buon Ricordo in Rome. Avid collectors of the plates, we were anxious to try the specialty, Pennerelli e ceci, which was tender strips of beef, vegetables and chick peas in a spicy tomato sauce. The dish was delicious, if a bit salty. The owner of the restaurant is very friendly and accommodating. Because of the holiday, he offered to make the dish with shrimp instead of beef, but we wanted to try the authentic version. The girls, coming off a long plane trip, were too jet lagged to eat much but managed half portions of spaghetti con sugo di pomodoro. G and I split the mixed antipasto of fried artichokes, fried eggplant stuffed with goat cheese, fried fresh anchovy, and a tiny mixed green salad with balsamic vinegar dressing. All delicious. While G had the Buon Ricordo dish, I had gnocchi with clams and shrimp which was excellent. White wine, water, orangina for the girls and two cafes. Total bill 95 Euro.
Hosteria Ulderico. Via San Giovanni Laterano across from the church of San Clemente. We had dinner here Good Friday night. When we arrived at 8:30 the place had one open table in the back room. This is a very basic, down to earth place that serves excellent food at extremely reasonable prices. We were the only tourists there. The girls and I shared proscuitto e melone. They had a veal cutlet and some very delicious roasted potatoes. I followed with fritto misto di mare; very generous amount of fresh fish, shrimp and calamari. G started with tortelloni and chick pea soup and also the frito misto. White house wine, water and Sprites. Total bill, 65 Euro.
Trattoria dar Pallaro. Largo di Pallaro. Near Campo dei Fiori. We have been here several times and always enjoy it. This is the girls' favorite restaurant in Rome. There is no menu; you get what Mama Paola is cooking that day. Saturday afternoon it was: Antipasti of proscuitto, mozzarella di bufala, white beans, olives, chicory, veal suppli and rice suppli. Primo of rigatoni con sugo di pomodoro and copious amounts of cheese. Secundo was roast pork and thin, crisp homemade potato chips. Peach cake for dessert served with a small glass of fresh squeezed mandarin orange juice. White wine, water and coke. Total bill 60 Euro.
May 3rd, 2003, 05:48 PM
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Pizzeria Ai Marmi. Viale di Trastevere 53. Known as "the morgue" due to the marble covered tables inside, this is a bustling pizzeria along Trastevere's main drag. We sat outside at a shared table. Service was a bit slow, but it was a very busy Saturday night. The girls each had a pizza Margherita, I had proscuitto e funghi, and G had sausage and onion. The pizzas were good but I still think they are better at Da Baffetto (see below). Two beers, water, and two Sprites, total bill 40 Euro.
Le Volte. Piazza Rondanini. Near the Pantheon. We had lunch hear after Mass on Easter. A bright and cheerful restaurant, it also has tables outside. The girls split a delicious lasagna. I had the bucatini amatriciana which was wonderful, and G had spaghetti carbonara. For the main course, I split some abbacchio scottadito (grilled baby lamb chops) with the girls along with a mixed salad. G had a lemony saltimbocca. For dessert, G had pannacotta, I had fragolini (tiny wild strawberries) and the girls had chocolate mousse and tiramisu. Although we didn't order it, the waiter brought out some Columba (traditional Easter cake) and vin santo. Excellent house red wine, water and cokes. Total bill, 100 Euro.
McDonalds. Don't yell at me! We were supposed to eat dinner at Vecchia Roma on Easter night but due to the incident after the Time Elevator, we cancelled it. Good thing too since we were all pretty full from lunch. I didn't eat anything that night but conveniently located kiddie corner to our hotel in Piazza della Rotunda, is a McDonalds so the girls wound up with Roman Happy Meals on Easter night. G grabbed a ham and cheese panino at the "Luncheonette" next to the hotel.
Dagino. Galleria Esedra Via Orlando 75. We were originally supposed to have lunch at Cantina Cantarini, but this being Easter Monday, it was closed. So after the zoo, we wandered to the Piazza della Repubblica and ate at Dagino. It is a Sicilian tavola calda (cafeteria) which had a bakery section full of delicious Sicilian sweets. We tried several different items including roast chicken, pizza slice, roast beef, potatoes, vegetables and spaghetti. It was all marvelous. For dessert we had cassata and cannoli, both of which were as good if not better than those found in Sicily. Total for a lot food and several different drinks: 42 Euro.
Ciccia Bomba. Via Governo Vecchio 76. Near the Piazza Navona. Has a no smoking section downstairs. Casual friendly place. Wide variety of primi, secundi and pizzas. Girls had spaghetti con vongole and polished it off. I had proscuitto e melone and fettucini con gamberi e vongole. Excellent. G had a mixed seafood salad and fettucine and porcini mushrooms. Wonderful. White wine, water, Sprites and two cafes. Total bill 70 Euro.
Le Volte. Piazza Rondanini. Near the Pantheon. We had lunch hear after Mass on Easter. A bright and cheerful restaurant, it also has tables outside. The girls split a delicious lasagna. I had the bucatini amatriciana which was wonderful, and G had spaghetti carbonara. For the main course, I split some abbacchio scottadito (grilled baby lamb chops) with the girls along with a mixed salad. G had a lemony saltimbocca. For dessert, G had pannacotta, I had fragolini (tiny wild strawberries) and the girls had chocolate mousse and tiramisu. Although we didn't order it, the waiter brought out some Columba (traditional Easter cake) and vin santo. Excellent house red wine, water and cokes. Total bill, 100 Euro.
McDonalds. Don't yell at me! We were supposed to eat dinner at Vecchia Roma on Easter night but due to the incident after the Time Elevator, we cancelled it. Good thing too since we were all pretty full from lunch. I didn't eat anything that night but conveniently located kiddie corner to our hotel in Piazza della Rotunda, is a McDonalds so the girls wound up with Roman Happy Meals on Easter night. G grabbed a ham and cheese panino at the "Luncheonette" next to the hotel.
Dagino. Galleria Esedra Via Orlando 75. We were originally supposed to have lunch at Cantina Cantarini, but this being Easter Monday, it was closed. So after the zoo, we wandered to the Piazza della Repubblica and ate at Dagino. It is a Sicilian tavola calda (cafeteria) which had a bakery section full of delicious Sicilian sweets. We tried several different items including roast chicken, pizza slice, roast beef, potatoes, vegetables and spaghetti. It was all marvelous. For dessert we had cassata and cannoli, both of which were as good if not better than those found in Sicily. Total for a lot food and several different drinks: 42 Euro.
Ciccia Bomba. Via Governo Vecchio 76. Near the Piazza Navona. Has a no smoking section downstairs. Casual friendly place. Wide variety of primi, secundi and pizzas. Girls had spaghetti con vongole and polished it off. I had proscuitto e melone and fettucini con gamberi e vongole. Excellent. G had a mixed seafood salad and fettucine and porcini mushrooms. Wonderful. White wine, water, Sprites and two cafes. Total bill 70 Euro.
May 3rd, 2003, 05:55 PM
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Trattoria Dino. Via Tacito 80. Near the Vatican. Tiny place open only for lunch. Jammed with Romans on their lunch break. Managed to grab the last open table (there are only about 10 tables inside and four outside). The waiter handed us a small spiral notebook on which was a handwritten menu. Girls and I split rigatoni amatriciana which was very good and I had chicken cacciatore which was made with olive oil and garlic but no tomato. G had veal alla Milanese which was essentially a schnitzel. White wine, water, and two cafes. Free meringue cookies at the end. Total bill 50 Euro.
Tutti Frutti. Via Luca della Robbia 5, Testaccio. Ring bell to enter. Adults must apply for membership which is free. You fill out a short membership application and are given cards. The interior is dark and club-like. The owner/chef is young, hip and speaks excellent English. The food is working class Roman/cutting edge. One of the best pasta dishes I have ever eaten was their fettucine with lamb. Simply outstanding. The girls enjoyed it too. Started with Pizzelle which was a thicker dough kind of pizza but very good. I shared an excellent filet steak with the girls. Tender and flavorful, I should have ordered it well done because medium was rarer than rare. G had fusilli pugliese with sundried tomatoes, pancetta, pinenuts and pecorino and followed with polpette meatballs and chicory. House red wine, water, several cokes, cafe and dessert of a mix of homemade gelato and sorbets in appropriate "containers". The walnut gelato was packed into a half of a walnut, the orange sorbet into a hollowed out half of an orangeyRefreshing and delicious. Total bill, 75 Euro. This restaurant is around the corner from the famous Volpetti delicatessen and we stopped in there before dinner just to admire the wide variety of meats, cheeses and ready-made food.
Checchino dal 1887. Via Monte Testaccio 30. Reservations necessary, no sloppy clothing. One of the finest restaurants in Rome. Elegant dycor, superb service. Extensive wine list. They changed their special Buon Ricordo dish this year. Three plates are available. The new plate, involtini di carne alla romana, is beef and pork roulades in a rich tomato based sauce. You can order it alone or get the "Menu di Buon Ricordo" and get an antipasto, pasta, the involtini and dessert. That is what my husband did and the entire meal was excellent. I ordered the "collector's menu" and could choose to receive the first plate they offered which was for oxtail stew, or a plate commemorating the Buon Ricordo convention in Sicily. I chose the oxtail plate but the menu does not serve the oxtail dish. Rather, you get an antipasto, pasta and dessert but you are served saltimbocca as the main course. This was disappointing as I wanted to try the famous oxtail stew. The girls had bucatini amatriciana which disappeared very quickly and discovered the Roman version of Sprite "Gassoso" which came in cute little glass bottles. The owner recommended the wine, Sangiovese Auleane San Patrigagno which was extremely good. Prosecco to start, water, and cafy, total bill, 144 Euro.
Osteria da Ada. Via Banchi Nuovi 14. No menu. Only eight tables and you may have to share a table. We all had penne con sugo di pomodoro with cheese, then involtini of veal, spicy grilled sausages, braised veal and peas. White house wine from Adays own vineyard in Frascati. Water and homemade biscotti. Total bill 65 Euro.
Piccolo Arancia. Vicolo Scanderberg 112. A block from the Trevi Fountain but in a quiet alleyway. A member of the Slowfood organization. Although steps away from hordes of tourists, this place was full of Romans (and us). Girls had strozzepreti con sugo di pomodoro which was excellent. I had proscuitto, honeydew melon then roast chicken and fresh asparagus. G had bruschetta with rapini and lardo, followed by roast suckling pig and chicory. House white wine, water, cokes and cafy, total bill 75 Euro. Great, clean bathroom. Had dessert at Gelateria San Crispino (see part 3) just steps away and fought the huge crowd at the Trevi to throw our coins in.
Pizzeria Da Baffetto. Via Governo Vecchio 114. Simply the best pizzeria in Rome. Go early (around 7 or 7:30) or be prepared for a long wait. You will probably share a table. Wide variety of pizzas, all excellent. Four pizzas, two beers and two cokes, total bill: 34 Euro.
Next...Gelato, Padua and closing tips and observations.
Tutti Frutti. Via Luca della Robbia 5, Testaccio. Ring bell to enter. Adults must apply for membership which is free. You fill out a short membership application and are given cards. The interior is dark and club-like. The owner/chef is young, hip and speaks excellent English. The food is working class Roman/cutting edge. One of the best pasta dishes I have ever eaten was their fettucine with lamb. Simply outstanding. The girls enjoyed it too. Started with Pizzelle which was a thicker dough kind of pizza but very good. I shared an excellent filet steak with the girls. Tender and flavorful, I should have ordered it well done because medium was rarer than rare. G had fusilli pugliese with sundried tomatoes, pancetta, pinenuts and pecorino and followed with polpette meatballs and chicory. House red wine, water, several cokes, cafe and dessert of a mix of homemade gelato and sorbets in appropriate "containers". The walnut gelato was packed into a half of a walnut, the orange sorbet into a hollowed out half of an orangeyRefreshing and delicious. Total bill, 75 Euro. This restaurant is around the corner from the famous Volpetti delicatessen and we stopped in there before dinner just to admire the wide variety of meats, cheeses and ready-made food.
Checchino dal 1887. Via Monte Testaccio 30. Reservations necessary, no sloppy clothing. One of the finest restaurants in Rome. Elegant dycor, superb service. Extensive wine list. They changed their special Buon Ricordo dish this year. Three plates are available. The new plate, involtini di carne alla romana, is beef and pork roulades in a rich tomato based sauce. You can order it alone or get the "Menu di Buon Ricordo" and get an antipasto, pasta, the involtini and dessert. That is what my husband did and the entire meal was excellent. I ordered the "collector's menu" and could choose to receive the first plate they offered which was for oxtail stew, or a plate commemorating the Buon Ricordo convention in Sicily. I chose the oxtail plate but the menu does not serve the oxtail dish. Rather, you get an antipasto, pasta and dessert but you are served saltimbocca as the main course. This was disappointing as I wanted to try the famous oxtail stew. The girls had bucatini amatriciana which disappeared very quickly and discovered the Roman version of Sprite "Gassoso" which came in cute little glass bottles. The owner recommended the wine, Sangiovese Auleane San Patrigagno which was extremely good. Prosecco to start, water, and cafy, total bill, 144 Euro.
Osteria da Ada. Via Banchi Nuovi 14. No menu. Only eight tables and you may have to share a table. We all had penne con sugo di pomodoro with cheese, then involtini of veal, spicy grilled sausages, braised veal and peas. White house wine from Adays own vineyard in Frascati. Water and homemade biscotti. Total bill 65 Euro.
Piccolo Arancia. Vicolo Scanderberg 112. A block from the Trevi Fountain but in a quiet alleyway. A member of the Slowfood organization. Although steps away from hordes of tourists, this place was full of Romans (and us). Girls had strozzepreti con sugo di pomodoro which was excellent. I had proscuitto, honeydew melon then roast chicken and fresh asparagus. G had bruschetta with rapini and lardo, followed by roast suckling pig and chicory. House white wine, water, cokes and cafy, total bill 75 Euro. Great, clean bathroom. Had dessert at Gelateria San Crispino (see part 3) just steps away and fought the huge crowd at the Trevi to throw our coins in.
Pizzeria Da Baffetto. Via Governo Vecchio 114. Simply the best pizzeria in Rome. Go early (around 7 or 7:30) or be prepared for a long wait. You will probably share a table. Wide variety of pizzas, all excellent. Four pizzas, two beers and two cokes, total bill: 34 Euro.
Next...Gelato, Padua and closing tips and observations.
May 4th, 2003, 05:06 AM
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What great restaurant list and reports! Actually I was thinking those prices were quite excellent for a family of four. It would be hard to take a family out to eat that often in DC for those prices. AND considering all the different foods they ate throughout the trip, I don't begrudge your girls their McDonalds meal at all. I'll have to copy and paste this with my own Rome restaurant experiences (not nearly as many as we were only there 3 nights.)
May 4th, 2003, 07:32 AM
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Again, thank you all for your kind comments on the trip report. And thanks to Rex for posting a link to this episode on the first part of the trip report. To avoid future admonitions, I will post part three at the end of this thread. Nikki, about Buon Ricordo. It is an orginzation of Italian restaurants (although there are members elsewhere in Europe, Asia and the USA)where, if you order the specialty of the house, you will be presented with a handpainted ceramic plate depicting the food and/or city the restaurant is located in (usually) a whimsical fashion. There was a thread not too long ago discussing them and you can go to www.buonricordo.com for the full story (click on the English version).
May 7th, 2003, 08:01 AM
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thanks for this great restaurant list!!..
i've been to a few on your list and your comments/reviews are right on the mark.
i also share your enthusiasm over the buon ricordo plates..(although i only have 4)..
and i have found the 4 b.r. restaurants i did get a chance to visit, share the buon ricordo philosophy of wonderful food and attentive service.
eagerly looking foward to your next installment.
i've been to a few on your list and your comments/reviews are right on the mark.
i also share your enthusiasm over the buon ricordo plates..(although i only have 4)..
and i have found the 4 b.r. restaurants i did get a chance to visit, share the buon ricordo philosophy of wonderful food and attentive service.
eagerly looking foward to your next installment.
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