Trip Report, Rome with Kids
May 7th, 2003, 12:10 PM
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Gelato, Padua and closing tips and observations.
Traveling with children in Italy will undoubtedly mean many stops for gelato. Here are some of the gelaterias that we visited in Rome, all of which make their own gelato:
San Crispino. Via della Panetteria 42. Near the Trevi Fountain, (there is also a location on Via Acaia, outside the walls). Closed Tuesday. Some, including my husband, think this is the finest gelateria in Rome. Yes, it is wonderful, with intense flavors. No cones, only cups. Try the special San Crispino flavor which is full of fruits, nuts and Marsala wine.
Giolitti. Via Uffici dei Vicario 40. Near the Pantheon. Excellent gelato but the place is always crowded, especially at night. Nice ice-cream parlor you can sit at and savor your gelato but be prepared to pay double. I like the rich and creamy gianduja flavor.
Fragola e Limone. Via Via Giustiniari between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. The specialties (see name) are outstanding and go well together. Friendly place with generous portions.
Ciampini. Viale Trinita dei Monti, at the top of the Spanish Steps (also in the Piazza of San Lorenzo in Lucina off the Corso). Charming place almost hidden in a vine-covered (blooming wisteria!)patio/ garden. Lovely view, especially at sunset. Specializes in elaborate fountain type creations. Also serves food and snacks. Rich and creamy chocolate gelato.
Old Bridge. Via Bastioni di Michelangelo 5. Very close to the entrance to the Vatican Museums. Huge portions. Very creamy gelato but I found the pistachio not very intensely flavored. My husband ordered Nutella gelato and it was like eating a cold and melting Milky Way.
Tre Scalini. Piazza Navona. The old location on the corner is undergoing renovation and so Tre Scalini is now in the restaurant next door. No more take out. After a long day of sightseeing, it was nice to sit outside at one of the tables and enjoy the famous "tartufo"-rich dark chocolate gelato covering a cherry and covered with whipped cream.
Gelateria en Piazza. Piazza San Cosimato. Trastevere. Huge selection of gelato, but it is famous for its chocolate throughout Rome. It is exceptional and the strawberry (fragola) is heavenly too.
Da Quinto. Via Tore Millina. Steps from the Piazza Navona. Hole in the wall gelateria with crowds non-stop. Extensive selection of flavors but the fruit flavors are outstanding. Immense portions. Annamaria loved the "After Eight" chocolate/mint flavor.
Alberto Pica. Via della Seggiola 12. Between the Ghetto and Campo dei Fiori. Closed Sunday. Signor Albeto Pica is a fixture of the Italian gelato industry and his many awards and citations are proudly displayed on the walls of the gelateria. Unusual flavors like rice.
Cremeria Monteforte. Via della Rotonda 22. Closed Monday. Across the street from the Pantheon, this is my new favorite gelateria. Tiny and take out only, the owners are very friendly and the pistachio gelato is creamy, intensely flavored and delicious. Since it is just steps from our hotel, we came here often and no flavor was bad.
One place we wanted to try but didnyt get around to it was the chain of gelaterie, Blue Ice. There are several scattered around the city, the most crowded one I saw was the one just west of the Trevi Fountain.
Padua.
We took a day trip to Padua on Wednesday because St. Anthony of Padua is the patron saint of Annamaria's third grade class. So we went up to see the Basilica of San Antonio and get some souvenirs for her teacher and class. On Tuesday, we stopped into the travel agency behind Santa Maria Sopra Minerva and bought four tickets on the Eurostar for the next day. Four first class tickets were about $350 roundtrip. We were up early on Wed. morning and took a cab to Termini where we bought a quick breakfast and boarded the Eurostar which left promptly at 6:55 am. The girls kept themselves busy on the train with a Gameboy and some Polly Pocket dolls and also managed to nap. Before we knew it, it was 10:45 and we were in Padua.
We walked the short distance to the Scrovegni Chapel. I had bought pre-paid tickets to tour the Chapel online before we left home. I picked up the tickets and was told to return by 12:25 for our 12:30 entrance time. We then walked though the shopping district to the Basilica of San Antonio which dominates a small piazza with two other chapels. Inside, we saw the saint's tomb, covered with notes and photographs left by people requesting favors or thanking the saint for helping them. We then stood in line at the reliquary chapel to see the saint's clothing, original coffin and his lower jawbone, tongue and vocal cords. After buying things for Annamaria's class, we went back to the Scrovegni Chapel and entered at 12:30. While one group of 20 people is touring the chapel, the next group of 20 is sitting in an environmentally controlled room watching a video (English subtitles) about the history and restoration of the Chapel. The video lasts 15 minutes and the tour of the Chapel is also 15 minutes. When the group inside the Chapel is let out the air-locked doors, the group in the video room can enter the Chapel. There is no explanation given while you are inside the Chapel; you are free to wander and look at what you like for the time you are inside. All I can say is that the Scrovegni Chapel should be visited by everyone even remotely interested in art or art history. There on the walls were some of the most famous frescos ever painted; frescos that I studied in Art History class in college. The representation of the body's motion and emotion captured by Giotto in these frescos marked a turning point in art history where artists never again were confined to immobile, static and emotionless figures.
Afterward, we had lunch at the Buon Ricordo member, Antico Brolo, Corso Milano 22. The specialty, testina di vitello, was sliced veal jowl in balsamic vinegar and onion with a small mixed selection of greens on top. My husband ordered it but found it very greasy and not enjoyable. Due to the mad cow scare, the restaurant offers an alternative dish, fusilli with vegetables, that you can order and still be presented with the Buon Ricordo plate. But ever the stickler for Buon Ricordo yrulesy my husband wanted the authentic dish, as well as fried fresh asparagus and cheese, yum, and then tortellini in asparagus. The girls had penne with proscuitto and peas in a cream sauce which was very good and fritto misto di mare. For the first time, they saw a whole (very tiny) fried fish, eyes, tail and all, on their plate. They only ate them after the heads and tails were cut off, leaving not much of a bite! I had a delicious short, thick and wavy kind of pasta in a fantastic sausage sauce and then poached monkfish in rosemary, with roasted potatoes, which was light and delicious. With white wine, several sodas, water and cafy, the bill was 200 Euro, which already included an 18% tip.
After lunch, we walked through the old section of Padua, to the cathedral, the marketplace and Palazzo Bo, part of the University and where the old anatomical theatre is located. Unfortunately the anatomical theatre was closed so we window shopped along the elegant pedestrian zone and had a small gelato at Geletaria Cavour. Then it was time to head back to the train station and catch the 5:00 pm Eurostar back to Rome where we arrived about 9:00pm. By the time we got back to the hotel, no one was very hungry and we were all too tired to go out to dinner so we just picked up some panini downstairs at the Luncheonette and ate in the room.
Closing Tips and Observations.
It never ceases to amaze me how much there is to do in Rome. Even though we were there for nine days, and our itinerary was geared to things young children would enjoy, we didnyt see everything we wanted to and certainly didn't come close to seeing many of the things that are usually seen.
For instance, because my girls are eight and five, I didn't think a tour of the Forum and Palatine would interest them. In a couple of years, the Forum will be near the top of our list of things to do with them. Likewise, the Vatican Museums are just too vast and crowded for very young children and so we didn't go there. They were inside St. Peter's Basilica on their previous trip to Rome in November of 2001, and did enjoy that, but this time our visit to the Vatican involved going to Easter Mass in the Piazza and a quick stop into the church of St. Anna. Our next visit will include a climb up to the dome and the treasury and also the Museums and Sistine Chapel.
Scary things. During our November 2001 trip, we took the girls to the Capuchin Crypt in the church of Santa Maria Concezione on Via Veneto. Annamaria had just turned seven and Cecilia was just four at the time. It didn't faze Annamaria in the least (she likes macabre things) and at the time, Cecilia just said "Oh, these are just father (priest) bones". Well, she's had nightmare about that church and for several months before this trip, all she could say when we mentioned Rome was "no father bones"! With this in mind, we didn't return to the Capuchin Crypt nor did we go to the Catacombs, the Museum of Criminology or the Purgatory Museum. I had wanted to stop into the Church of San Stefano Rotundo and show them the gruesome frescos of saints being martyred but we ran out of time. All of those things would be of interest to older children or less sensitive children and hopefully will be on our itinerary next time.
Travel. The best buy of the trip was the weekly Metro/Bus ticket my husband and I purchased the first day we were there. For 12 euro we had the freedom to ride all the buses, trams and metro and didn't have to worry about finding a tobacco shop that had tickets. The clerk who sold me the tickets said the girls would be free, but then I found out that only children under 1 meter tall are free. They are both taller than that but we never were questioned. Remember to stamp your ticket the first time you use it in the machine on every bus or in the entrance to the Metro. We walked a lot too, as Rome is definitely a walker's city and the girls kept up very well. We only took taxis a few times (to and from the airport, to Termini and once from the zoo to Piazza Repubblica) and they were fast and reasonably priced. Every time we took the Metro, it was jammed. Which leads me to:
Thieves, Pickpockets. We didn't even see the usual gang of gypsy kids with the large pieces of cardboard that usually hang out at the major tourist sites. All we saw were beggars, stationed one to a church, at the entrance to every church we passed. Granted, professional pickpockets do not stand out, but in nine days in Rome, we didn't see anyone get their things stolen (and we've seen this in the past) or hear of anyone who was pickpocketed. We kept our things in my purse and my husband's backpack and our valuables in the hotel safe.
Feelings toward Americans. There has been a lot of discussion about how Italians or Europeans feel toward Americans since the start of the war in Iraq. We never encountered any negative feelings. Everyone seemed genuinely happy to see us and help us and welcomed the children warmly. Only a few "Pace" flags were flying from the buildings in Rome; more were visible on the buildings near the railroad station in Bologna and Florence, but certainly not in abundance. No one questioned our politics or that of our government's. I felt as safe as I always have. If anyone is wondering whether or not to go to Italy at this time, I would encourage them to go and enjoy themselves.
Traveling with children in Italy will undoubtedly mean many stops for gelato. Here are some of the gelaterias that we visited in Rome, all of which make their own gelato:
San Crispino. Via della Panetteria 42. Near the Trevi Fountain, (there is also a location on Via Acaia, outside the walls). Closed Tuesday. Some, including my husband, think this is the finest gelateria in Rome. Yes, it is wonderful, with intense flavors. No cones, only cups. Try the special San Crispino flavor which is full of fruits, nuts and Marsala wine.
Giolitti. Via Uffici dei Vicario 40. Near the Pantheon. Excellent gelato but the place is always crowded, especially at night. Nice ice-cream parlor you can sit at and savor your gelato but be prepared to pay double. I like the rich and creamy gianduja flavor.
Fragola e Limone. Via Via Giustiniari between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. The specialties (see name) are outstanding and go well together. Friendly place with generous portions.
Ciampini. Viale Trinita dei Monti, at the top of the Spanish Steps (also in the Piazza of San Lorenzo in Lucina off the Corso). Charming place almost hidden in a vine-covered (blooming wisteria!)patio/ garden. Lovely view, especially at sunset. Specializes in elaborate fountain type creations. Also serves food and snacks. Rich and creamy chocolate gelato.
Old Bridge. Via Bastioni di Michelangelo 5. Very close to the entrance to the Vatican Museums. Huge portions. Very creamy gelato but I found the pistachio not very intensely flavored. My husband ordered Nutella gelato and it was like eating a cold and melting Milky Way.
Tre Scalini. Piazza Navona. The old location on the corner is undergoing renovation and so Tre Scalini is now in the restaurant next door. No more take out. After a long day of sightseeing, it was nice to sit outside at one of the tables and enjoy the famous "tartufo"-rich dark chocolate gelato covering a cherry and covered with whipped cream.
Gelateria en Piazza. Piazza San Cosimato. Trastevere. Huge selection of gelato, but it is famous for its chocolate throughout Rome. It is exceptional and the strawberry (fragola) is heavenly too.
Da Quinto. Via Tore Millina. Steps from the Piazza Navona. Hole in the wall gelateria with crowds non-stop. Extensive selection of flavors but the fruit flavors are outstanding. Immense portions. Annamaria loved the "After Eight" chocolate/mint flavor.
Alberto Pica. Via della Seggiola 12. Between the Ghetto and Campo dei Fiori. Closed Sunday. Signor Albeto Pica is a fixture of the Italian gelato industry and his many awards and citations are proudly displayed on the walls of the gelateria. Unusual flavors like rice.
Cremeria Monteforte. Via della Rotonda 22. Closed Monday. Across the street from the Pantheon, this is my new favorite gelateria. Tiny and take out only, the owners are very friendly and the pistachio gelato is creamy, intensely flavored and delicious. Since it is just steps from our hotel, we came here often and no flavor was bad.
One place we wanted to try but didnyt get around to it was the chain of gelaterie, Blue Ice. There are several scattered around the city, the most crowded one I saw was the one just west of the Trevi Fountain.
Padua.
We took a day trip to Padua on Wednesday because St. Anthony of Padua is the patron saint of Annamaria's third grade class. So we went up to see the Basilica of San Antonio and get some souvenirs for her teacher and class. On Tuesday, we stopped into the travel agency behind Santa Maria Sopra Minerva and bought four tickets on the Eurostar for the next day. Four first class tickets were about $350 roundtrip. We were up early on Wed. morning and took a cab to Termini where we bought a quick breakfast and boarded the Eurostar which left promptly at 6:55 am. The girls kept themselves busy on the train with a Gameboy and some Polly Pocket dolls and also managed to nap. Before we knew it, it was 10:45 and we were in Padua.
We walked the short distance to the Scrovegni Chapel. I had bought pre-paid tickets to tour the Chapel online before we left home. I picked up the tickets and was told to return by 12:25 for our 12:30 entrance time. We then walked though the shopping district to the Basilica of San Antonio which dominates a small piazza with two other chapels. Inside, we saw the saint's tomb, covered with notes and photographs left by people requesting favors or thanking the saint for helping them. We then stood in line at the reliquary chapel to see the saint's clothing, original coffin and his lower jawbone, tongue and vocal cords. After buying things for Annamaria's class, we went back to the Scrovegni Chapel and entered at 12:30. While one group of 20 people is touring the chapel, the next group of 20 is sitting in an environmentally controlled room watching a video (English subtitles) about the history and restoration of the Chapel. The video lasts 15 minutes and the tour of the Chapel is also 15 minutes. When the group inside the Chapel is let out the air-locked doors, the group in the video room can enter the Chapel. There is no explanation given while you are inside the Chapel; you are free to wander and look at what you like for the time you are inside. All I can say is that the Scrovegni Chapel should be visited by everyone even remotely interested in art or art history. There on the walls were some of the most famous frescos ever painted; frescos that I studied in Art History class in college. The representation of the body's motion and emotion captured by Giotto in these frescos marked a turning point in art history where artists never again were confined to immobile, static and emotionless figures.
Afterward, we had lunch at the Buon Ricordo member, Antico Brolo, Corso Milano 22. The specialty, testina di vitello, was sliced veal jowl in balsamic vinegar and onion with a small mixed selection of greens on top. My husband ordered it but found it very greasy and not enjoyable. Due to the mad cow scare, the restaurant offers an alternative dish, fusilli with vegetables, that you can order and still be presented with the Buon Ricordo plate. But ever the stickler for Buon Ricordo yrulesy my husband wanted the authentic dish, as well as fried fresh asparagus and cheese, yum, and then tortellini in asparagus. The girls had penne with proscuitto and peas in a cream sauce which was very good and fritto misto di mare. For the first time, they saw a whole (very tiny) fried fish, eyes, tail and all, on their plate. They only ate them after the heads and tails were cut off, leaving not much of a bite! I had a delicious short, thick and wavy kind of pasta in a fantastic sausage sauce and then poached monkfish in rosemary, with roasted potatoes, which was light and delicious. With white wine, several sodas, water and cafy, the bill was 200 Euro, which already included an 18% tip.
After lunch, we walked through the old section of Padua, to the cathedral, the marketplace and Palazzo Bo, part of the University and where the old anatomical theatre is located. Unfortunately the anatomical theatre was closed so we window shopped along the elegant pedestrian zone and had a small gelato at Geletaria Cavour. Then it was time to head back to the train station and catch the 5:00 pm Eurostar back to Rome where we arrived about 9:00pm. By the time we got back to the hotel, no one was very hungry and we were all too tired to go out to dinner so we just picked up some panini downstairs at the Luncheonette and ate in the room.
Closing Tips and Observations.
It never ceases to amaze me how much there is to do in Rome. Even though we were there for nine days, and our itinerary was geared to things young children would enjoy, we didnyt see everything we wanted to and certainly didn't come close to seeing many of the things that are usually seen.
For instance, because my girls are eight and five, I didn't think a tour of the Forum and Palatine would interest them. In a couple of years, the Forum will be near the top of our list of things to do with them. Likewise, the Vatican Museums are just too vast and crowded for very young children and so we didn't go there. They were inside St. Peter's Basilica on their previous trip to Rome in November of 2001, and did enjoy that, but this time our visit to the Vatican involved going to Easter Mass in the Piazza and a quick stop into the church of St. Anna. Our next visit will include a climb up to the dome and the treasury and also the Museums and Sistine Chapel.
Scary things. During our November 2001 trip, we took the girls to the Capuchin Crypt in the church of Santa Maria Concezione on Via Veneto. Annamaria had just turned seven and Cecilia was just four at the time. It didn't faze Annamaria in the least (she likes macabre things) and at the time, Cecilia just said "Oh, these are just father (priest) bones". Well, she's had nightmare about that church and for several months before this trip, all she could say when we mentioned Rome was "no father bones"! With this in mind, we didn't return to the Capuchin Crypt nor did we go to the Catacombs, the Museum of Criminology or the Purgatory Museum. I had wanted to stop into the Church of San Stefano Rotundo and show them the gruesome frescos of saints being martyred but we ran out of time. All of those things would be of interest to older children or less sensitive children and hopefully will be on our itinerary next time.
Travel. The best buy of the trip was the weekly Metro/Bus ticket my husband and I purchased the first day we were there. For 12 euro we had the freedom to ride all the buses, trams and metro and didn't have to worry about finding a tobacco shop that had tickets. The clerk who sold me the tickets said the girls would be free, but then I found out that only children under 1 meter tall are free. They are both taller than that but we never were questioned. Remember to stamp your ticket the first time you use it in the machine on every bus or in the entrance to the Metro. We walked a lot too, as Rome is definitely a walker's city and the girls kept up very well. We only took taxis a few times (to and from the airport, to Termini and once from the zoo to Piazza Repubblica) and they were fast and reasonably priced. Every time we took the Metro, it was jammed. Which leads me to:
Thieves, Pickpockets. We didn't even see the usual gang of gypsy kids with the large pieces of cardboard that usually hang out at the major tourist sites. All we saw were beggars, stationed one to a church, at the entrance to every church we passed. Granted, professional pickpockets do not stand out, but in nine days in Rome, we didn't see anyone get their things stolen (and we've seen this in the past) or hear of anyone who was pickpocketed. We kept our things in my purse and my husband's backpack and our valuables in the hotel safe.
Feelings toward Americans. There has been a lot of discussion about how Italians or Europeans feel toward Americans since the start of the war in Iraq. We never encountered any negative feelings. Everyone seemed genuinely happy to see us and help us and welcomed the children warmly. Only a few "Pace" flags were flying from the buildings in Rome; more were visible on the buildings near the railroad station in Bologna and Florence, but certainly not in abundance. No one questioned our politics or that of our government's. I felt as safe as I always have. If anyone is wondering whether or not to go to Italy at this time, I would encourage them to go and enjoy themselves.
May 22nd, 2003, 07:10 PM
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Great report Grinisia... I am going to Rome next month with my grandchild, he is 9 years old..His first overseas' trip also. By the way , I will like to try the restaurant "Tutti Frutti "in Testaccio, .. Did you go by bus, tram or taxi there?
if you remenber the way, can you please tell me? I will be leaving june 18..
Ciao,
kismet
if you remenber the way, can you please tell me? I will be leaving june 18..
Ciao,
kismet
May 22nd, 2003, 09:10 PM
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Thank you for sharing your incredible journey with me. It was a great help in starting to plan our trip. I'm curious to know how many pounds you all gained! The food and gelato sound wonderful! (Even the McDonalds is somewhat reassuring in a wierd way.)
Suzy
Suzy
May 23rd, 2003, 06:32 AM
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Thanks Kismet and SuzyB; glad you found the report helpful. As to Tutti Fruitti, we took Tram #8 from Largo Argentina into Trastevere and then at Via G. Induno, transferred to Tram #3 which goes down the Via Marmorata in Testacci. Get off at Via Galvani and walk one block southwest to Via d. Robbia, the street the restaurant is on. As to the pounds gained, I'm happy to say that my husband and I both lost a few pounds! Must be all that walking!
Jun 10th, 2003, 07:05 AM
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Grinisa, that was a wonderful report! I just wanted to get your advice: I am going with my 3 kids to Rome on July 27 (arr. July 28, 8 am). We were only going to be there for 3 days (dep. Thursday) because we are heading to Israel. But, I am beginning to feel silly for only staying for 3 days. We could really stay over the weekend and into the following week. If we do that, would you recommend staying in Rome or taking a trip to Venice (never been there and just saw Bread and Tulips) or the coast? Our only limitation is we cannot travel Friday night or Saturday. Also, do you think my kids could handle a guided tour of the Colisseum etc. - they are ages 13, 10, and 8. The tours seem rather long? I am looking forward to your response!
Jun 10th, 2003, 07:58 AM
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rq10463, I'm glad you found the trip report helpful. I think your children are the perfect age for a guided tour of the Colosseum and will really enjoy it. I love Rome; it's my favorite city in the world, so when you ask me if you should extend your trip, my first inclination is to say "of course". But nonetheless, three days will allow you to see the highlights of Rome and whet your appetite to come back. If you can extend it by a couple of days, by all means do so and you will enjoy every minute you are there. I wouldn't recommend going all the way up to Venice for just a couple of days, especially if you have to return to Rome to catch your flight to Israel. Save Venice for another trip when you can savor it.
Jun 10th, 2003, 08:18 AM
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Thanks for your quick reply! I guess you are right about Venice. It's just that the more I think about going, the more I want to see because it is so exciting. I hope you don't mind one more question: the Sistine Chapel. We will not be going to the rest of the Vatican, but I would like to go to the Sistine Chapel. I am concerned though about waiting to get in, my 8 year old gets very tired and antsy. Is there any way to get in quickly(best time of day or advanced tickets) or not? Thanks again!
Jun 10th, 2003, 09:01 AM
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Many people swear by lining up first thing in the morning and going directly to the Sistine Chapel. If you do that, you will have to wait for a while in a non-moving line until the Museums open, but then if you quickly make your way directly to the Chapel (about a 10 or 15 minute brisk walk)you will find it relatively uncrowded. I've found the line to get into the Museum is shortest and moves quickest around lunchtime or shortly thereafter. Sometimes the Chapel is still crowded but sometimes you're lucky and it isn't. There are no advance tickets sold to the Vatican Museums but if you go with a guided tour like Scala Reale, you can bypass the lines to get in.
Jun 10th, 2003, 04:44 PM
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Thankyou again, Grinisa. That sounds like very good advice about the Sistine Chapel. I have written to Scala Reale (a few weeks ago), but I've only received a "we got your e-mail and we'll get back to you". I actually think we'll sign up with "Enjoy Rome" for their Ancient Rome tour. Did you do any night tours or is it just as good to walk around by yourself to see the monuments lit up? (and is it safe? my husband won't be with us). You are so informative - you should have your own web site!! Grazie!
Jun 10th, 2003, 05:19 PM
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Tulips: You and your daughters will have a wonderful time in Rome and the Del Senato is the best place to stay with kids; I'm sure you will love it.
rq10463: We have never taken a night tour but Rome is a perfect city for walking around at night by yourselves. Even without your husband there, you should feel perfectly safe walking around the centro storico.
rq10463: We have never taken a night tour but Rome is a perfect city for walking around at night by yourselves. Even without your husband there, you should feel perfectly safe walking around the centro storico.
Jun 10th, 2003, 08:54 PM
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Grinisa,
We are taking our two kids to Rome in August (first time for all of us). I just want to thank you for your post. I've spent the past two or three weeks reading everything I can about Rome and yours is the single most useful piece of information I've come across.
Thanks again.
We are taking our two kids to Rome in August (first time for all of us). I just want to thank you for your post. I've spent the past two or three weeks reading everything I can about Rome and yours is the single most useful piece of information I've come across.
Thanks again.
Jun 11th, 2003, 07:28 AM
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Pumblechook: Wow, thanks so much for the compliment! This board if full of knowledgeable people who love Italy so I hope you have been reading some of the recent trip reports which have been very helpful. Your kids will love Italy! Please post a trip report on what you all did and how the kids enjoyed it when you return! Buon Viaggio.
