Trip Report, Rome with Kids
May 1st, 2003, 11:53 AM
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Trip Report, Rome with Kids
Background.
My husband, G, daughters Annamaria , age 8 and Cecilia, age 5 (otherwise known as the Principesse) and I left for Rome on Thursday, April 17th and returned Saturday, April 26th. While my husband and I have been to Italy numerous times, this was to be the Principesse' second trip to Italy, and, like little Audrey Hepburns, would confine their tour strictly to Rome (except for one day trip). We wanted the girls to have a fun and relaxing spring vacation and so my pre-trip planning was primarily done out of the Fodor's book Around Rome with Kids. As such, our Roman Holiday was very much child-oriented. The principesse had a great time and have already regaled their classmates at show and tell with their adventures. I hope this trip report is helpful to others planning a trip to Rome with young children.
Hotel.
What can I say but Heaven, I'm in Heaven. The Del Senato Hotel is the only hotel we plan to stay in from now on. Perfectly located on the Piazza della Rotunda, there is no location in Rome that could be more convenient. In my many visits to Rome, I have stayed in just about every form of accommodation from youth hostel to a suite at the Hassler and everything in between. But nothing compares to room 602 at the Del Senato. It is the Senior Suite and sleeps four people in two bedrooms, a large bathroom and immense terrace with both north and west views. It is on the 6th floor and when you step out of the French doors onto that terrace, you feel that you can touch the dome of the Pantheon it is so close. There before you are the Piazza della Rotunda, and the domes and spires of all the neighboring churches...a vista that sings Rome at every glance in any direction.
The room itself is equipped with two single beds pushed together in the main bedroom. There is a large closet with safe, mini bar and television (not satellite). The French doors leading to the terrace are in this room. The terrace has a small table and three chairs and is lined with flower boxes containing small roses, just beginning to bloom. The bathroom has ample storage space, nice bath products, hair dryer, separate shower stall, Jacuzzi tub and bidet. The other bedroom has a double sofa bed and coffee table, mini bar and T.V. The rooftop bar is reached from a short flight of steps at the end of our hallway. Drinks up there were nice but we preferred the privacy of our own terrace. Breakfast is served in a bright room on the main floor. Decent cappuccino and the usual continental buffet fare. The staff is extremely friendly and very helpful and attentive. The small 116 bus that goes around the centro storico stops just outside the hotel and just about anyplace in Rome can be reached by the buses and trams found at Largo Argentina, two blocks away. Price of room: 465 Euro. Perfection found in a Roman hotel. Priceless.
My husband, G, daughters Annamaria , age 8 and Cecilia, age 5 (otherwise known as the Principesse) and I left for Rome on Thursday, April 17th and returned Saturday, April 26th. While my husband and I have been to Italy numerous times, this was to be the Principesse' second trip to Italy, and, like little Audrey Hepburns, would confine their tour strictly to Rome (except for one day trip). We wanted the girls to have a fun and relaxing spring vacation and so my pre-trip planning was primarily done out of the Fodor's book Around Rome with Kids. As such, our Roman Holiday was very much child-oriented. The principesse had a great time and have already regaled their classmates at show and tell with their adventures. I hope this trip report is helpful to others planning a trip to Rome with young children.
Hotel.
What can I say but Heaven, I'm in Heaven. The Del Senato Hotel is the only hotel we plan to stay in from now on. Perfectly located on the Piazza della Rotunda, there is no location in Rome that could be more convenient. In my many visits to Rome, I have stayed in just about every form of accommodation from youth hostel to a suite at the Hassler and everything in between. But nothing compares to room 602 at the Del Senato. It is the Senior Suite and sleeps four people in two bedrooms, a large bathroom and immense terrace with both north and west views. It is on the 6th floor and when you step out of the French doors onto that terrace, you feel that you can touch the dome of the Pantheon it is so close. There before you are the Piazza della Rotunda, and the domes and spires of all the neighboring churches...a vista that sings Rome at every glance in any direction.
The room itself is equipped with two single beds pushed together in the main bedroom. There is a large closet with safe, mini bar and television (not satellite). The French doors leading to the terrace are in this room. The terrace has a small table and three chairs and is lined with flower boxes containing small roses, just beginning to bloom. The bathroom has ample storage space, nice bath products, hair dryer, separate shower stall, Jacuzzi tub and bidet. The other bedroom has a double sofa bed and coffee table, mini bar and T.V. The rooftop bar is reached from a short flight of steps at the end of our hallway. Drinks up there were nice but we preferred the privacy of our own terrace. Breakfast is served in a bright room on the main floor. Decent cappuccino and the usual continental buffet fare. The staff is extremely friendly and very helpful and attentive. The small 116 bus that goes around the centro storico stops just outside the hotel and just about anyplace in Rome can be reached by the buses and trams found at Largo Argentina, two blocks away. Price of room: 465 Euro. Perfection found in a Roman hotel. Priceless.
May 1st, 2003, 12:07 PM
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Sights and Activities.
Our days in Rome followed a pattern of waking up around nine, having breakfast, doing and seeing things until around 1 pm when we would stop for lunch, returning to the hotel for a rest until about 4 or 5, seeing some more things, having gelato, then going to dinner about 8, followed by more gelato and bed. The following is a list of the things we did and saw during our time in Rome that the principesse enjoyed.
The Borghese Gardens. Last time we were in Rome, we discovered the small amusement area in the Borghese next to the childrenys theater. There are small moving rides, foosball, pinball and our girls' favorite, little cars that they can drive around a track. We quickly spent 15 Euro here on tokens but they had a lot of fun. The children's theatre was showing Spirited Away but in Italian of course.
Villa Sciarra. This park is mentioned in the Around Rome with Kids book. We took a number 8 tram from Largo Argentina into Trastevere and walked a short distance to the Villa Sciarra. It is a lovely park that has an area of swings and slides next to a huge birdcage containing ducks and peacocks. If you bring your own bread you can feed the birds. A short distance away is an amusement center similar to the one at the Borghese but it has a small carousel and a little roller coaster. Very fun. But my favorite part of the park was the wisteria lined walking paths filled with that heavenly scent.
LUNA Park. Located in EUR, we took the metro here on Thursday afternoon and exited at the Magliana station. Entry is free but each ride costs between 1 and 4 Euro. With two kids, this can add up very quickly. But, heck, it's their vacation so they rode whatever they wanted. The best rides were Nessie a very gentle Loch Ness monster roller coaster, flying ships and flying elephants just like the Dumbo ride at Disneyworld, the moonwalk and climbing area and their absolute favorite, the trampolines! There are also bumper cars, small cars that go around and around but they can't control, a small train that goes around the park, and a faster small roller coaster like the Barnstormer at Disneyworld. For adults or older children, there is a large roller coaster with a loop, several spinning tilt a whirl type rides and four Haunted Houses. Luna Park opens in the afternoon and remains open until late evening. On Sunday, it opens in the morning too.
Zoo. We went to the zoo on Easter Monday, along with just about every other Roman family. Located at the Northeast corner of the Borghese Gardens, we got there by the little train that stops next to the amusement area. The train costs 2 Euro each but itys a fun way to see the park and save some little feet from walking. It appears that the animal enclosures have been updated since we last visited in 2001. Only the panthers and lynx were in small metal cages. However, it remains a very old world zoo and is slightly depressing. Many Roman families brought picnics and were eating in Oasis di Lago area of the zoo.
Time Elevator. Located between the Corso and Piazza dei S.S. Apostoli, the Time Elevator shows what life was like in Ancient Rome, Medieval Rome, Renaissance Rome, Baroque Rome and Modern Rome. Admission is 11 Euros for adults and 9 for children. Shows start every hour and last about 45 minutes. The first 15 minutes are spent in a waiting area where you can play a Trivia Game like Jeopardy. First it is in Italian and there are about 8 questions increasing in difficulty. Then they do it in English. It's fun, but although I achieved the highest score of the day, I didn't get a prize! Then you go into the theatre and are put into sections that have six seats each. Headphones are at each seat and you can hear the movie in English. The large screen in front shows the movie about some professor who invented a time elevator which he uses (and the audience does too) to travel through time. Whenever the time elevator is in use, the seats move up and down and jiggle and rock and the screen is a blur of motion. Warning: do not go to the Time Elevator if you are subject to nausea. I'm not usually but this ride was too much for me. I was lucky to make it out of the theatre without throwing up. We cancelled our Easter dinner at Vecchia Roma and went back to the hotel where I was promptly sick.
Our days in Rome followed a pattern of waking up around nine, having breakfast, doing and seeing things until around 1 pm when we would stop for lunch, returning to the hotel for a rest until about 4 or 5, seeing some more things, having gelato, then going to dinner about 8, followed by more gelato and bed. The following is a list of the things we did and saw during our time in Rome that the principesse enjoyed.
The Borghese Gardens. Last time we were in Rome, we discovered the small amusement area in the Borghese next to the childrenys theater. There are small moving rides, foosball, pinball and our girls' favorite, little cars that they can drive around a track. We quickly spent 15 Euro here on tokens but they had a lot of fun. The children's theatre was showing Spirited Away but in Italian of course.
Villa Sciarra. This park is mentioned in the Around Rome with Kids book. We took a number 8 tram from Largo Argentina into Trastevere and walked a short distance to the Villa Sciarra. It is a lovely park that has an area of swings and slides next to a huge birdcage containing ducks and peacocks. If you bring your own bread you can feed the birds. A short distance away is an amusement center similar to the one at the Borghese but it has a small carousel and a little roller coaster. Very fun. But my favorite part of the park was the wisteria lined walking paths filled with that heavenly scent.
LUNA Park. Located in EUR, we took the metro here on Thursday afternoon and exited at the Magliana station. Entry is free but each ride costs between 1 and 4 Euro. With two kids, this can add up very quickly. But, heck, it's their vacation so they rode whatever they wanted. The best rides were Nessie a very gentle Loch Ness monster roller coaster, flying ships and flying elephants just like the Dumbo ride at Disneyworld, the moonwalk and climbing area and their absolute favorite, the trampolines! There are also bumper cars, small cars that go around and around but they can't control, a small train that goes around the park, and a faster small roller coaster like the Barnstormer at Disneyworld. For adults or older children, there is a large roller coaster with a loop, several spinning tilt a whirl type rides and four Haunted Houses. Luna Park opens in the afternoon and remains open until late evening. On Sunday, it opens in the morning too.
Zoo. We went to the zoo on Easter Monday, along with just about every other Roman family. Located at the Northeast corner of the Borghese Gardens, we got there by the little train that stops next to the amusement area. The train costs 2 Euro each but itys a fun way to see the park and save some little feet from walking. It appears that the animal enclosures have been updated since we last visited in 2001. Only the panthers and lynx were in small metal cages. However, it remains a very old world zoo and is slightly depressing. Many Roman families brought picnics and were eating in Oasis di Lago area of the zoo.
Time Elevator. Located between the Corso and Piazza dei S.S. Apostoli, the Time Elevator shows what life was like in Ancient Rome, Medieval Rome, Renaissance Rome, Baroque Rome and Modern Rome. Admission is 11 Euros for adults and 9 for children. Shows start every hour and last about 45 minutes. The first 15 minutes are spent in a waiting area where you can play a Trivia Game like Jeopardy. First it is in Italian and there are about 8 questions increasing in difficulty. Then they do it in English. It's fun, but although I achieved the highest score of the day, I didn't get a prize! Then you go into the theatre and are put into sections that have six seats each. Headphones are at each seat and you can hear the movie in English. The large screen in front shows the movie about some professor who invented a time elevator which he uses (and the audience does too) to travel through time. Whenever the time elevator is in use, the seats move up and down and jiggle and rock and the screen is a blur of motion. Warning: do not go to the Time Elevator if you are subject to nausea. I'm not usually but this ride was too much for me. I was lucky to make it out of the theatre without throwing up. We cancelled our Easter dinner at Vecchia Roma and went back to the hotel where I was promptly sick.
May 1st, 2003, 12:12 PM
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Grinisa,
We too are about to take our children to Italy for the 1st time, with 5 days in Rome. Can you ofer any advice as to restaurants, activities, etc. (what was well received and was not!)? Mine are 10 (Boy) and 5 (Girl).
Any advice/tips/hints would be greatly appreciated!
Greg
We too are about to take our children to Italy for the 1st time, with 5 days in Rome. Can you ofer any advice as to restaurants, activities, etc. (what was well received and was not!)? Mine are 10 (Boy) and 5 (Girl).
Any advice/tips/hints would be greatly appreciated!
Greg
May 1st, 2003, 12:16 PM
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Palazzo Altemps. A small museum just north of the piazza Navona. Some interesting sculpture and wonderful loggia painted floor to ceiling with animals, birds and plants overlooking a pretty courtyard. Admission 5 Euro, no children's discount.
Campo dei Fiori. We went Saturday morning before Easter. The place was hopping with activity, everyone trying to get their shopping done before the two day holiday. The girls liked all the junk jewelry stalls and the fish stall. While they were occupied, I slipped into a shop along the campo and bought two Kinder chocolate Easter eggs.
Easter Religious Activities. On Friday night, the Pope conducts Stations of the Cross at the Colosseum. We didn?t have tickets for this, but that doesn't matter. Via Fori Imperiali is closed to traffic and people are outside the Colosseum and Forum watching the last stations. On Saturday night, there was a beautiful Easter Vigil Mass at the Pantheon. On Easter Sunday, we had tickets to the Papal Mass in front of St. Peter's Basilica. We arrived about 9:30 am for the 10:30 Mass. Security was tight and only ticket holders could enter the Piazza. Seats were set up in the Piazza as far back as the obelisk. We found four next to the center aisle. This was the only day that it drizzled off and on in the morning. Jumbotron televisions were set up so everyone could see what was happening. It was a wonderful experience.
Explora Children's Museum. Located at 82 Via Flamino, just north of Piazza del Popolo, this in Rome's new museum with hands on children's activities. Admission 5 Euro for adults and 6 for children! Entry is at a specified time as they only let in a certain amount of people. While we waited until noon, we bought the girls the hot toy of the moment in the gift shop: a rubber ball filled with water dangling from a rubber string. It's kind of a cross between a yoyo and one of those ball and paddle things. Roman and tourist kids had them everywhere. These kept the principesse occupied very well. The museum is nice and even though everything is in Italian, they had fun in the house area that had a kitchen and laundry room, the hospital, grocery store, bank and post office.
Lupa di Roma Soccer Shop. Via Cola di Rienzo. I was surprised how this store enthralled the girls. Neither play soccer and we only went in their for a hat for my husband. But we had previously brought home stuffed Lupas and singing Lupas for the girls so they were familiar with this cute mascot. They each found lots of things they wanted but settled for a backpack and a hat.
Colosseum. We went here after lunch on Easter Monday. 8 Euro to enter, no child discount. We bought one of the books that has the transparencies showing how things looked in Ancient Roman times and then today. Annamaria has seen Gladiator so was full of questions about the animals and slaves etc. Cecilia spotted a wild dog living among the ruins. We spent a good hour here exploring all the levels and walking around the entire area. It is great exercise to walk up the steep staircases which is what we told the girls when the line for the glass elevator was too long.
Mamertine Prison. Located in the Forum near the Campidoglio, entry is free but donations to the church (located above the prison) are requested. Two levels are visible. The first is a small chapel and then you descend a narrow winding staircase into the cell that St. Peter and St. Paul were supposedly imprisoned in. A spring runs under the prison and you can dip your hand into the hole in the floor and touch the water.
Museo Mario Praz. Via Zanardelli 1. Admission free. Just north of the Piazza Navona, tours are about every hour. Mario Praz was an eccentric Italian who wrote about English culture. He collected a wide variety of art and objects d'art throughout his long life and his home, located on the third floor of a palazzo, is chock full of interesting items and furnishings. Request an tour in English ahead of time.
Churches. We saw many including:
Santa Maria Sopra Minerva: Bernini's charming elephant holding the obelisk, the Lippi frescos and body of the little girl, Santa Wittoria.
San Ignazio: The girls were amazed that the dome wasn't real.
San Crisogno: A must see for our daughter Annamaria as the body of the blessed Annamaria Taigi is here.
Santa Cecilia in Trastevere: A stop for our other daughter, Cecilia. Beautiful church with Maderno's sculpture of the saint and interesting crypt and Cavallini frescos in the choir.
San Francesca Romana: In the forum. Not often open. The saint's skeleton, dressed in a white nun's habit is in the crypt below the altar.
Santa Anastasia. This church was recently renovated so this was our first time inside.
San Clemente: Fascinating three level church with Mithric temple at the bottom.
S.S. Quattro Coronati: Very old church with interesting double courtyard and high defensive walls. The chapel of San Sylvester is here. To enter, ring the bell and a nun will appear behind an ancient grate. Request the key to the chapel and she will place it in a turntable in the wall. To buy postcards of the frescos in the chapel, write the numbers of the cards on the provided slips of paper and use the turntable. This whole process just about dumbstruck the girls. The church also has a lovely cloister.
Santa Maria Aracoeli. The girls enjoyed seeing the miraculous statue of the infant Jesus that is brought to hospitals and homes of the very sick hoping for a cure. It was recently stolen and recovered, but most of the many jewels that used to cover it are gone.
Santa Maria en Cosmedin. The Bocca di Verita or Mouth of Truth seen in the movie, Roman Holiday, is located here. Neither of our girls would put their hands too far inside that mouth!
Piazza Navona. Where we returned again and again. Lots of performance artists including a guy that had a tape player and finger puppets that danced to music and a guy with a bird act. Annamaria pleaded to have her portrait in charcoal done and we obliged. 30 Euro and it turned out so well we had Cecilia done too.
Next..Restaurants, gelato and Padua.
Campo dei Fiori. We went Saturday morning before Easter. The place was hopping with activity, everyone trying to get their shopping done before the two day holiday. The girls liked all the junk jewelry stalls and the fish stall. While they were occupied, I slipped into a shop along the campo and bought two Kinder chocolate Easter eggs.
Easter Religious Activities. On Friday night, the Pope conducts Stations of the Cross at the Colosseum. We didn?t have tickets for this, but that doesn't matter. Via Fori Imperiali is closed to traffic and people are outside the Colosseum and Forum watching the last stations. On Saturday night, there was a beautiful Easter Vigil Mass at the Pantheon. On Easter Sunday, we had tickets to the Papal Mass in front of St. Peter's Basilica. We arrived about 9:30 am for the 10:30 Mass. Security was tight and only ticket holders could enter the Piazza. Seats were set up in the Piazza as far back as the obelisk. We found four next to the center aisle. This was the only day that it drizzled off and on in the morning. Jumbotron televisions were set up so everyone could see what was happening. It was a wonderful experience.
Explora Children's Museum. Located at 82 Via Flamino, just north of Piazza del Popolo, this in Rome's new museum with hands on children's activities. Admission 5 Euro for adults and 6 for children! Entry is at a specified time as they only let in a certain amount of people. While we waited until noon, we bought the girls the hot toy of the moment in the gift shop: a rubber ball filled with water dangling from a rubber string. It's kind of a cross between a yoyo and one of those ball and paddle things. Roman and tourist kids had them everywhere. These kept the principesse occupied very well. The museum is nice and even though everything is in Italian, they had fun in the house area that had a kitchen and laundry room, the hospital, grocery store, bank and post office.
Lupa di Roma Soccer Shop. Via Cola di Rienzo. I was surprised how this store enthralled the girls. Neither play soccer and we only went in their for a hat for my husband. But we had previously brought home stuffed Lupas and singing Lupas for the girls so they were familiar with this cute mascot. They each found lots of things they wanted but settled for a backpack and a hat.
Colosseum. We went here after lunch on Easter Monday. 8 Euro to enter, no child discount. We bought one of the books that has the transparencies showing how things looked in Ancient Roman times and then today. Annamaria has seen Gladiator so was full of questions about the animals and slaves etc. Cecilia spotted a wild dog living among the ruins. We spent a good hour here exploring all the levels and walking around the entire area. It is great exercise to walk up the steep staircases which is what we told the girls when the line for the glass elevator was too long.
Mamertine Prison. Located in the Forum near the Campidoglio, entry is free but donations to the church (located above the prison) are requested. Two levels are visible. The first is a small chapel and then you descend a narrow winding staircase into the cell that St. Peter and St. Paul were supposedly imprisoned in. A spring runs under the prison and you can dip your hand into the hole in the floor and touch the water.
Museo Mario Praz. Via Zanardelli 1. Admission free. Just north of the Piazza Navona, tours are about every hour. Mario Praz was an eccentric Italian who wrote about English culture. He collected a wide variety of art and objects d'art throughout his long life and his home, located on the third floor of a palazzo, is chock full of interesting items and furnishings. Request an tour in English ahead of time.
Churches. We saw many including:
Santa Maria Sopra Minerva: Bernini's charming elephant holding the obelisk, the Lippi frescos and body of the little girl, Santa Wittoria.
San Ignazio: The girls were amazed that the dome wasn't real.
San Crisogno: A must see for our daughter Annamaria as the body of the blessed Annamaria Taigi is here.
Santa Cecilia in Trastevere: A stop for our other daughter, Cecilia. Beautiful church with Maderno's sculpture of the saint and interesting crypt and Cavallini frescos in the choir.
San Francesca Romana: In the forum. Not often open. The saint's skeleton, dressed in a white nun's habit is in the crypt below the altar.
Santa Anastasia. This church was recently renovated so this was our first time inside.
San Clemente: Fascinating three level church with Mithric temple at the bottom.
S.S. Quattro Coronati: Very old church with interesting double courtyard and high defensive walls. The chapel of San Sylvester is here. To enter, ring the bell and a nun will appear behind an ancient grate. Request the key to the chapel and she will place it in a turntable in the wall. To buy postcards of the frescos in the chapel, write the numbers of the cards on the provided slips of paper and use the turntable. This whole process just about dumbstruck the girls. The church also has a lovely cloister.
Santa Maria Aracoeli. The girls enjoyed seeing the miraculous statue of the infant Jesus that is brought to hospitals and homes of the very sick hoping for a cure. It was recently stolen and recovered, but most of the many jewels that used to cover it are gone.
Santa Maria en Cosmedin. The Bocca di Verita or Mouth of Truth seen in the movie, Roman Holiday, is located here. Neither of our girls would put their hands too far inside that mouth!
Piazza Navona. Where we returned again and again. Lots of performance artists including a guy that had a tape player and finger puppets that danced to music and a guy with a bird act. Annamaria pleaded to have her portrait in charcoal done and we obliged. 30 Euro and it turned out so well we had Cecilia done too.
Next..Restaurants, gelato and Padua.
May 1st, 2003, 12:25 PM
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GregW:
I hope this trip report helps with planning your trip to Rome with your children. I hope to get the restaurant etc. installment posted by the weekend. If after reading this post and the next you still have questions let me know and I'll try and offer some more specific help.
I hope this trip report helps with planning your trip to Rome with your children. I hope to get the restaurant etc. installment posted by the weekend. If after reading this post and the next you still have questions let me know and I'll try and offer some more specific help.
May 1st, 2003, 12:35 PM
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Ginisa, thank you for the fine report. May I ask how you traveled throughout the city: bus, taxi, subway? And at Campo dei Fiori are there t-shirts and other things to buy besides jewelry? In the evenings where did you go after dinner?
Thanks again,
==Mike
Thanks again,
==Mike
May 1st, 2003, 12:41 PM
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Mike:
We used taxis, the metro and bus but mostly bus and walked walked walked. The best buy of the trip was the 12 Euro each my husband and I spent on the weekly Metro/bus combo ticket. The guy at the tobacco shop said our girls would be free, but then I read that kids had to be under 1 meter tall to ride free and both are over that. But we never had a problem. I'll explain restaurants and such in more detail in the next installment but for the most part after dinner we'd get gelato and walk around the Piazza Navona or Piazza della Rotunda (right outside our hotel).
We used taxis, the metro and bus but mostly bus and walked walked walked. The best buy of the trip was the 12 Euro each my husband and I spent on the weekly Metro/bus combo ticket. The guy at the tobacco shop said our girls would be free, but then I read that kids had to be under 1 meter tall to ride free and both are over that. But we never had a problem. I'll explain restaurants and such in more detail in the next installment but for the most part after dinner we'd get gelato and walk around the Piazza Navona or Piazza della Rotunda (right outside our hotel).
May 1st, 2003, 02:11 PM
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Great and fun report. I am delighted to hear that someone other than myself belives there is at least ONE OTHER SPOT to stay in Rome BESIDES being "near" the Spanish Steps! And, that there are other more than adequate hotels besides The Hassler! Thanks and Cheers!
May 1st, 2003, 07:28 PM
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Grinisia, what an interesting report!!I will be in Rome June 18 with my 9 years old grandchild,Rome is a lots of fun for the children also.I am happy that your family had such great time..
kismet
kismet
May 4th, 2003, 05:14 AM
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It is generally considered prefereable - - in fact Fodors now officially recommends it! - - to post your continued trip report
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34416771
as an addendum to this post.
Best wishes,
Rex
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34416771
as an addendum to this post.
Best wishes,
Rex
May 4th, 2003, 09:31 AM
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Message: Restaurants
All of the following restaurants were child-friendly and had enough choices available on the menu that the girls could choose something they liked. Two places did not have a menu but what the chef was making that day was more than all right with the Principesse.
Il Sanpietrino. Piazza Costaguti 15. Located in a quiet piazza in the Ghetto, the restaurant is tucked into a tiny corner and is hard to spot. You must ring a bell to be admitted. We had reservations for lunch and they were expecting us. Only one other table was occupied on this Good Friday afternoon. It is the newest member of Buon Ricordo in Rome. Avid collectors of the plates, we were anxious to try the specialty, Pennerelli e ceci, which was tender strips of beef, vegetables and chick peas in a spicy tomato sauce. The dish was delicious, if a bit salty. The owner of the restaurant is very friendly and accommodating. Because of the holiday, he offered to make the dish with shrimp instead of beef, but we wanted to try the authentic version. The girls, coming off a long plane trip, were too jet lagged to eat much but managed half portions of spaghetti con sugo di pomodoro. G and I split the mixed antipasto of fried artichokes, fried eggplant stuffed with goat cheese, fried fresh anchovy, and a tiny mixed green salad with balsamic vinegar dressing. All delicious. While G had the Buon Ricordo dish, I had gnocchi with clams and shrimp which was excellent. White wine, water, orangina for the girls and two cafes. Total bill 95 Euro.
Hosteria Ulderico. Via San Giovanni Laterano across from the church of San Clemente. We had dinner here Good Friday night. When we arrived at 8:30 the place had one open table in the back room. This is a very basic, down to earth place that serves excellent food at extremely reasonable prices. We were the only tourists there. The girls and I shared proscuitto e melone. They had a veal cutlet and some very delicious roasted potatoes. I followed with fritto misto di mare; very generous amount of fresh fish, shrimp and calamari. G started with tortelloni and chick pea soup and also the frito misto. White house wine, water and Sprites. Total bill, 65 Euro.
Trattoria dar Pallaro. Largo di Pallaro. Near Campo dei Fiori. We have been here several times and always enjoy it. This is the girls' favorite restaurant in Rome. There is no menu; you get what Mama Paola is cooking that day. Saturday afternoon it was: Antipasti of proscuitto, mozzarella di bufala, white beans, olives, chicory, veal suppli and rice suppli. Primo of rigatoni con sugo di pomodoro and copious amounts of cheese. Secundo was roast pork and thin, crisp homemade potato chips. Peach cake for dessert served with a small glass of fresh squeezed mandarin orange juice. White wine, water and coke. Total bill 60 Euro.
All of the following restaurants were child-friendly and had enough choices available on the menu that the girls could choose something they liked. Two places did not have a menu but what the chef was making that day was more than all right with the Principesse.
Il Sanpietrino. Piazza Costaguti 15. Located in a quiet piazza in the Ghetto, the restaurant is tucked into a tiny corner and is hard to spot. You must ring a bell to be admitted. We had reservations for lunch and they were expecting us. Only one other table was occupied on this Good Friday afternoon. It is the newest member of Buon Ricordo in Rome. Avid collectors of the plates, we were anxious to try the specialty, Pennerelli e ceci, which was tender strips of beef, vegetables and chick peas in a spicy tomato sauce. The dish was delicious, if a bit salty. The owner of the restaurant is very friendly and accommodating. Because of the holiday, he offered to make the dish with shrimp instead of beef, but we wanted to try the authentic version. The girls, coming off a long plane trip, were too jet lagged to eat much but managed half portions of spaghetti con sugo di pomodoro. G and I split the mixed antipasto of fried artichokes, fried eggplant stuffed with goat cheese, fried fresh anchovy, and a tiny mixed green salad with balsamic vinegar dressing. All delicious. While G had the Buon Ricordo dish, I had gnocchi with clams and shrimp which was excellent. White wine, water, orangina for the girls and two cafes. Total bill 95 Euro.
Hosteria Ulderico. Via San Giovanni Laterano across from the church of San Clemente. We had dinner here Good Friday night. When we arrived at 8:30 the place had one open table in the back room. This is a very basic, down to earth place that serves excellent food at extremely reasonable prices. We were the only tourists there. The girls and I shared proscuitto e melone. They had a veal cutlet and some very delicious roasted potatoes. I followed with fritto misto di mare; very generous amount of fresh fish, shrimp and calamari. G started with tortelloni and chick pea soup and also the frito misto. White house wine, water and Sprites. Total bill, 65 Euro.
Trattoria dar Pallaro. Largo di Pallaro. Near Campo dei Fiori. We have been here several times and always enjoy it. This is the girls' favorite restaurant in Rome. There is no menu; you get what Mama Paola is cooking that day. Saturday afternoon it was: Antipasti of proscuitto, mozzarella di bufala, white beans, olives, chicory, veal suppli and rice suppli. Primo of rigatoni con sugo di pomodoro and copious amounts of cheese. Secundo was roast pork and thin, crisp homemade potato chips. Peach cake for dessert served with a small glass of fresh squeezed mandarin orange juice. White wine, water and coke. Total bill 60 Euro.
May 4th, 2003, 09:33 AM
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Pizzeria Ai Marmi. Viale di Trastevere 53. Known as "the morgue" due to the marble covered tables inside, this is a bustling pizzeria along Trastevere's main drag. We sat outside at a shared table. Service was a bit slow, but it was a very busy Saturday night. The girls each had a pizza Margherita, I had proscuitto e funghi, and G had sausage and onion. The pizzas were good but I still think they are better at Da Baffetto (see below). Two beers, water, and two Sprites, total bill 40 Euro.
Le Volte. Piazza Rondanini. Near the Pantheon. We had lunch hear after Mass on Easter. A bright and cheerful restaurant, it also has tables outside. The girls split a delicious lasagna. I had the bucatini amatriciana which was wonderful, and G had spaghetti carbonara. For the main course, I split some abbacchio scottadito (grilled baby lamb chops) with the girls along with a mixed salad. G had a lemony saltimbocca. For dessert, G had pannacotta, I had fragolini (tiny wild strawberries) and the girls had chocolate mousse and tiramisu. Although we didn't order it, the waiter brought out some Columba (traditional Easter cake) and vin santo. Excellent house red wine, water and cokes. Total bill, 100 Euro.
McDonalds. Don't yell at me! We were supposed to eat dinner at Vecchia Roma on Easter night but due to the incident after the Time Elevator, we cancelled it. Good thing too since we were all pretty full from lunch. I didn't eat anything that night but conveniently located kiddie corner to our hotel in Piazza della Rotunda, is a McDonalds so the girls wound up with Roman Happy Meals on Easter night. G grabbed a ham and cheese panino at the "Luncheonette" next to the hotel.
Dagino. Galleria Esedra Via Orlando 75. We were originally supposed to have lunch at Cantina Cantarini, but this being Easter Monday, it was closed. So after the zoo, we wandered to the Piazza della Repubblica and ate at Dagino. It is a Sicilian tavola calda (cafeteria) which had a bakery section full of delicious Sicilian sweets. We tried several different items including roast chicken, pizza slice, roast beef, potatoes, vegetables and spaghetti. It was all marvelous. For dessert we had cassata and cannoli, both of which were as good if not better than those found in Sicily. Total for a lot food and several different drinks: 42 Euro.
Ciccia Bomba. Via Governo Vecchio 76. Near the Piazza Navona. Has a no smoking section downstairs. Casual friendly place. Wide variety of primi, secundi and pizzas. Girls had spaghetti con vongole and polished it off. I had proscuitto e melone and fettucini con gamberi e vongole. Excellent. G had a mixed seafood salad and fettucine and porcini mushrooms. Wonderful. White wine, water, Sprites and two cafes. Total bill 70 Euro.
May 4th, 2003, 09:37 AM
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Trattoria Dino. Via Tacito 80. Near the Vatican. Tiny place open only for lunch. Jammed with Romans on their lunch break. Managed to grab the last open table (there are only about 10 tables inside and four outside). The waiter handed us a small spiral notebook on which was a handwritten menu. Girls and I split rigatoni amatriciana which was very good and I had chicken cacciatore which was made with olive oil and garlic but no tomato. G had veal alla Milanese which was essentially a schnitzel. White wine, water, and two cafes. Free meringue cookies at the end. Total bill 50 Euro.
Tutti Frutti. Via Luca della Robbia 5, Testaccio. Ring bell to enter. Adults must apply for membership which is free. You fill out a short membership application and are given cards. The interior is dark and club-like. The owner/chef is young, hip and speaks excellent English. The food is working class Roman/cutting edge. One of the best pasta dishes I have ever eaten was their fettucine with lamb. Simply outstanding. The girls enjoyed it too. Started with Pizzelle which was a thicker dough kind of pizza but very good. I shared an excellent filet steak with the girls. Tender and flavorful, I should have ordered it well done because medium was rarer than rare. G had fusilli pugliese with sundried tomatoes, pancetta, pinenuts and pecorino and followed with polpette meatballs and chicory. House red wine, water, several cokes, cafe and dessert of a mix of homemade gelato and sorbets in appropriate "containers". The walnut gelato was packed into a half of a walnut, the orange sorbet into a hollowed out half of an orangeyRefreshing and delicious. Total bill, 75 Euro. This restaurant is around the corner from the famous Volpetti delicatessen and we stopped in there before dinner just to admire the wide variety of meats, cheeses and ready-made food.
Checchino dal 1887. Via Monte Testaccio 30. Reservations necessary, no sloppy clothing. One of the finest restaurants in Rome. Elegant dycor, superb service. Extensive wine list. They changed their special Buon Ricordo dish this year. Three plates are available. The new plate, involtini di carne alla romana, is beef and pork roulades in a rich tomato based sauce. You can order it alone or get the "Menu di Buon Ricordo" and get an antipasto, pasta, the involtini and dessert. That is what my husband did and the entire meal was excellent. I ordered the "collector's menu" and could choose to receive the first plate they offered which was for oxtail stew, or a plate commemorating the Buon Ricordo convention in Sicily. I chose the oxtail plate but the menu does not serve the oxtail dish. Rather, you get an antipasto, pasta and dessert but you are served saltimbocca as the main course. This was disappointing as I wanted to try the famous oxtail stew. The girls had bucatini amatriciana which disappeared very quickly and discovered the Roman version of Sprite "Gassoso" which came in cute little glass bottles. The owner recommended the wine, Sangiovese Auleane San Patrigagno which was extremely good. Prosecco to start, water, and cafy, total bill, 144 Euro.
Osteria da Ada. Via Banchi Nuovi 14. No menu. Only eight tables and you may have to share a table. We all had penne con sugo di pomodoro with cheese, then involtini of veal, spicy grilled sausages, braised veal and peas. White house wine from Adays own vineyard in Frascati. Water and homemade biscotti. Total bill 65 Euro.
Piccolo Arancia. Vicolo Scanderberg 112. A block from the Trevi Fountain but in a quiet alleyway. A member of the Slowfood organization. Although steps away from hordes of tourists, this place was full of Romans (and us). Girls had strozzepreti con sugo di pomodoro which was excellent. I had proscuitto, honeydew melon then roast chicken and fresh asparagus. G had bruschetta with rapini and lardo, followed by roast suckling pig and chicory. House white wine, water, cokes and cafy, total bill 75 Euro. Great, clean bathroom. Had dessert at Gelateria San Crispino (see part 3) just steps away and fought the huge crowd at the Trevi to throw our coins in.
Pizzeria Da Baffetto. Via Governo Vecchio 114. Simply the best pizzeria in Rome. Go early (around 7 or 7:30) or be prepared for a long wait. You will probably share a table. Wide variety of pizzas, all excellent. Four pizzas, two beers and two cokes, total bill: 34 Euro.
Next...Gelato, Padua and closing tips and observations.
Tutti Frutti. Via Luca della Robbia 5, Testaccio. Ring bell to enter. Adults must apply for membership which is free. You fill out a short membership application and are given cards. The interior is dark and club-like. The owner/chef is young, hip and speaks excellent English. The food is working class Roman/cutting edge. One of the best pasta dishes I have ever eaten was their fettucine with lamb. Simply outstanding. The girls enjoyed it too. Started with Pizzelle which was a thicker dough kind of pizza but very good. I shared an excellent filet steak with the girls. Tender and flavorful, I should have ordered it well done because medium was rarer than rare. G had fusilli pugliese with sundried tomatoes, pancetta, pinenuts and pecorino and followed with polpette meatballs and chicory. House red wine, water, several cokes, cafe and dessert of a mix of homemade gelato and sorbets in appropriate "containers". The walnut gelato was packed into a half of a walnut, the orange sorbet into a hollowed out half of an orangeyRefreshing and delicious. Total bill, 75 Euro. This restaurant is around the corner from the famous Volpetti delicatessen and we stopped in there before dinner just to admire the wide variety of meats, cheeses and ready-made food.
Checchino dal 1887. Via Monte Testaccio 30. Reservations necessary, no sloppy clothing. One of the finest restaurants in Rome. Elegant dycor, superb service. Extensive wine list. They changed their special Buon Ricordo dish this year. Three plates are available. The new plate, involtini di carne alla romana, is beef and pork roulades in a rich tomato based sauce. You can order it alone or get the "Menu di Buon Ricordo" and get an antipasto, pasta, the involtini and dessert. That is what my husband did and the entire meal was excellent. I ordered the "collector's menu" and could choose to receive the first plate they offered which was for oxtail stew, or a plate commemorating the Buon Ricordo convention in Sicily. I chose the oxtail plate but the menu does not serve the oxtail dish. Rather, you get an antipasto, pasta and dessert but you are served saltimbocca as the main course. This was disappointing as I wanted to try the famous oxtail stew. The girls had bucatini amatriciana which disappeared very quickly and discovered the Roman version of Sprite "Gassoso" which came in cute little glass bottles. The owner recommended the wine, Sangiovese Auleane San Patrigagno which was extremely good. Prosecco to start, water, and cafy, total bill, 144 Euro.
Osteria da Ada. Via Banchi Nuovi 14. No menu. Only eight tables and you may have to share a table. We all had penne con sugo di pomodoro with cheese, then involtini of veal, spicy grilled sausages, braised veal and peas. White house wine from Adays own vineyard in Frascati. Water and homemade biscotti. Total bill 65 Euro.
Piccolo Arancia. Vicolo Scanderberg 112. A block from the Trevi Fountain but in a quiet alleyway. A member of the Slowfood organization. Although steps away from hordes of tourists, this place was full of Romans (and us). Girls had strozzepreti con sugo di pomodoro which was excellent. I had proscuitto, honeydew melon then roast chicken and fresh asparagus. G had bruschetta with rapini and lardo, followed by roast suckling pig and chicory. House white wine, water, cokes and cafy, total bill 75 Euro. Great, clean bathroom. Had dessert at Gelateria San Crispino (see part 3) just steps away and fought the huge crowd at the Trevi to throw our coins in.
Pizzeria Da Baffetto. Via Governo Vecchio 114. Simply the best pizzeria in Rome. Go early (around 7 or 7:30) or be prepared for a long wait. You will probably share a table. Wide variety of pizzas, all excellent. Four pizzas, two beers and two cokes, total bill: 34 Euro.
Next...Gelato, Padua and closing tips and observations.
May 4th, 2003, 03:05 PM
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Grinisa,
Thanks very much for the report. Based on your recommendation, I switched our hotel from the Westin Excelsior to Room 602 at the Del Senato Hotel for our upcoming trip (only a couple of weeks to go!). Even if it is only half as nice as you suggest, I am sure that we will love it there.
Thanks.
Biz
Thanks very much for the report. Based on your recommendation, I switched our hotel from the Westin Excelsior to Room 602 at the Del Senato Hotel for our upcoming trip (only a couple of weeks to go!). Even if it is only half as nice as you suggest, I am sure that we will love it there.
Thanks.
Biz
May 4th, 2003, 03:28 PM
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Biz: I'm glad room 602 was available at such short notice-give it my regards! Yes, I can't imagine you not loving it, but be aware that the 3 star Del Senato is a lot different than the 5 star Excelsior. But even with the downgrade in stars, I'd pick the Del Senato over the Excelsior any day. Enjoy your stay!
May 7th, 2003, 08:11 AM
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thanks, grinsa, for all the excellent child friendly choices you've given us here.
we were with a 10 yr. old granddaughter last fall in rome...and now i see we must take her back to visit all those places we missed!
great report..clear, informative and quite thorough~thanks again.
we were with a 10 yr. old granddaughter last fall in rome...and now i see we must take her back to visit all those places we missed!
great report..clear, informative and quite thorough~thanks again.
