Trip Report-Rome and Sorrento April/May
May 11th, 2006, 03:00 PM
#22
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Thanks Leely--it is taking me awhile to just type up my notes, but a good benefit is that I can send them to my sister so she can remember the trip. She doesn't tend to recall many of the details.
I'll get to it, but Pompeii was incredible--I had no real idea of the size of what had been excavated.
I'll get to it, but Pompeii was incredible--I had no real idea of the size of what had been excavated.
May 13th, 2006, 09:56 AM
#25
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More report--my notes are getting skimper and it is becoming harder to reconstruct trip. Must remember to try and keep better journal throughout length of trips. I start out enthusiastically, but lose concentration as the vacation progresses.
Monday—Gorgeous, sunny morning. Sat on the balcony, having breakfast and enjoyed the view—could have sat there for hours. But eventually we decide to venture into Sorrento to have lunch, even though it was yet another holiday period—Tuesday is a holiday of some kind and many Italians will have taken a 4 day weekend. When we got into Sorrento, traffic is horrific, and parking is impossible. Sister is disturbed by the traffic, particularly the swarms of scooters—on a turn off the Corso Italia there as many as 10 scooters surrounding the car trying the get into the small space between me and the bus in front. Police are directing traffic and unfortunately we end up driving near the Piazza Tasso, which is just a mess. Sister wants no part of Sorrento at this point, and is extremely rattled by the traffic, so I drive towards Massa Lubrese and traffic immediately disappears and it is much quieter. We drive along the coast, and it is quiet lovely. Sister is still rattled so we look for a place to have lunch—we end up at Ristorante Antico Francschiello because sister likes the décor. It has a lovely view of Capri, and sis is beginning to feel better. We have a lovely lunch, but I didn’t write down what we had—I do recall some fabulous mussels as a starter, Service was very attentive and the restaurant was very pretty. A lovely Italian couple was celebrating a birthday at the next table and they shared their birthday cake—a delicious strawberry tart with us. I wished him buon compleanno, in a continuing attempt to use some Italian. We were served complimentary glasses of limoncello and sister finally relaxed. After this long lunch we started on a drive to explore the Sorrento Pennisula past Massa Lubrese, stopping to admire incredible views of Capri along the coast, driving down to Marina Della Lobra and towards Marciano. At Marciano the road leaves the coast and climbs up to Termini. From Termini we drove down to Marina Del Cantone—very winding road, very picturesque. Rough Guide describes this area of the Sorrento Penninsula as looking like the Amalfi coast before it was developed. I can't compare, but the roads certainly aren't teaming with cars. Marina was fairly busy with lots of Italians enjoying their long weekend, but a very pretty location. After having a gelato and taking in the view and just people watching, we drove back to Termini, stopped and admired the view, then drove on to Sant’Agata sui due Golfi where we stopped for an expresso and to do some grocery shopping for dinner that I intended to cook next day. Owner made and sold his own limoncello and he gave us samples—fabulous, not very sweet at all, great essence of lemon. Of course we bought a couple of bottles, also picked up some wine. Continued on to Collie di Fontenelle to spend evening in. Picked up a 4E pizza from Stellucia, combined with a salad caprese and wine, capped off with limoncello on the balcony looking at the lights of Praiano and the Salerno Coast—just lovely!!
Tuesday__Somewhat hazy but warm morning. After a slow start with brunch on the balcony, we decided to drive to Sant’agata so that sister could check out what was there and could practice driving the road herself. The road is fairly winding, but by this point it was beginning to look wide to her--compared to some of the roads I had drive up and down the previous day, so she managed very well. Visited the church which was in stark contrast to the extravagantly decorated churches we had seen in Rome. After checking out the internet point, and stores--all of which were closed--we stopped in café for cappuccino and snack sister got into a conversation with the owner, who said that if she needed a driver to take her down the coast the next week she should contact him. I think she has made a conquest—she just think he just looking for extra business. We will see!!! We then decide to drive to Positano.
Lots of motorcyclists since it is a holiday—but I didn’t find the driving particularly difficult. Lots of what I come to term Italian driving—ignoring lanes lines and motorcycles weaving in between cars. I know others will strongly disagree, but I didn’t find the coast that spectacular, pretty yes, not amazing.
Positano was jammed with people with cars parked on every shoulder of the road available, so we continued on to Praiano, which was somewhat quieter and less crowded. Drove a little further south, but not all the way to Amalfi, as I had to drive back and did not want to do so as it got dark. Lots of roadside stands selling lemons and other food stuffs. Stopped at a few ceramic shops on the way back—saw some amazing pieces, beautiful and expensive hand painted pieces!!
Drive back just before twilight was fine, only a few deranged motorcyclists!!! According to a lovely American of Italian descent, who worked in a ceramics shop, a number of motorcyclists die every year on the Amalfi road--it is not surprising!!
Once we were back at the house we sat on the balcony listening to jazz and watching the lights come up on in Praiano and the surrounding hills. Using my iPod with a couple of inexpensive, little speakers was very useful, I highly recommend, throwing pair in your suitcase if your are going to be staying in an apartment of house.
I made dinner using the wonderful, right off the farm tomatoes for a simle pasta arribata, along with a salad of fresh arugala and other greens, a bottle of wine and followed up with limoncello—great meal!!! Nightlife—what nightlife. If we didn’t go out for dinner our evenings consisted of listening to music, reading and talking. We planned on going to Pompeii the next and thought that there was a possibility of taking a bus to Sorrento.
From the comments in the guestbook it appeared that some of the guests had stayed at house without cars and had used buses. I couldn’t imagine doing this consistently, but we it was worth exploring. Sister was particularly interested because she really, really didn’t want to drive. I think the prospect or having to do so once I left was a nagging concern. It wasn’t until sometime after she first expressed her dismay at the route to Sorrento that I realized that the last time we were in Tuscany and drove all over, that I had done all the driving then. Her concern was another lesson we learned about each other and traveling together—I enjoy driving, I enjoy driving winding curving roads, I see them as a challenge to be undertaken, I also don’t mind doing all the driving. Although we decided that if we were to go to Amalfi, we would get a driver so I could focus on the view—going to Amalfi was dependent on the weather and whether we went to Paetrum.
Monday—Gorgeous, sunny morning. Sat on the balcony, having breakfast and enjoyed the view—could have sat there for hours. But eventually we decide to venture into Sorrento to have lunch, even though it was yet another holiday period—Tuesday is a holiday of some kind and many Italians will have taken a 4 day weekend. When we got into Sorrento, traffic is horrific, and parking is impossible. Sister is disturbed by the traffic, particularly the swarms of scooters—on a turn off the Corso Italia there as many as 10 scooters surrounding the car trying the get into the small space between me and the bus in front. Police are directing traffic and unfortunately we end up driving near the Piazza Tasso, which is just a mess. Sister wants no part of Sorrento at this point, and is extremely rattled by the traffic, so I drive towards Massa Lubrese and traffic immediately disappears and it is much quieter. We drive along the coast, and it is quiet lovely. Sister is still rattled so we look for a place to have lunch—we end up at Ristorante Antico Francschiello because sister likes the décor. It has a lovely view of Capri, and sis is beginning to feel better. We have a lovely lunch, but I didn’t write down what we had—I do recall some fabulous mussels as a starter, Service was very attentive and the restaurant was very pretty. A lovely Italian couple was celebrating a birthday at the next table and they shared their birthday cake—a delicious strawberry tart with us. I wished him buon compleanno, in a continuing attempt to use some Italian. We were served complimentary glasses of limoncello and sister finally relaxed. After this long lunch we started on a drive to explore the Sorrento Pennisula past Massa Lubrese, stopping to admire incredible views of Capri along the coast, driving down to Marina Della Lobra and towards Marciano. At Marciano the road leaves the coast and climbs up to Termini. From Termini we drove down to Marina Del Cantone—very winding road, very picturesque. Rough Guide describes this area of the Sorrento Penninsula as looking like the Amalfi coast before it was developed. I can't compare, but the roads certainly aren't teaming with cars. Marina was fairly busy with lots of Italians enjoying their long weekend, but a very pretty location. After having a gelato and taking in the view and just people watching, we drove back to Termini, stopped and admired the view, then drove on to Sant’Agata sui due Golfi where we stopped for an expresso and to do some grocery shopping for dinner that I intended to cook next day. Owner made and sold his own limoncello and he gave us samples—fabulous, not very sweet at all, great essence of lemon. Of course we bought a couple of bottles, also picked up some wine. Continued on to Collie di Fontenelle to spend evening in. Picked up a 4E pizza from Stellucia, combined with a salad caprese and wine, capped off with limoncello on the balcony looking at the lights of Praiano and the Salerno Coast—just lovely!!
Tuesday__Somewhat hazy but warm morning. After a slow start with brunch on the balcony, we decided to drive to Sant’agata so that sister could check out what was there and could practice driving the road herself. The road is fairly winding, but by this point it was beginning to look wide to her--compared to some of the roads I had drive up and down the previous day, so she managed very well. Visited the church which was in stark contrast to the extravagantly decorated churches we had seen in Rome. After checking out the internet point, and stores--all of which were closed--we stopped in café for cappuccino and snack sister got into a conversation with the owner, who said that if she needed a driver to take her down the coast the next week she should contact him. I think she has made a conquest—she just think he just looking for extra business. We will see!!! We then decide to drive to Positano.
Lots of motorcyclists since it is a holiday—but I didn’t find the driving particularly difficult. Lots of what I come to term Italian driving—ignoring lanes lines and motorcycles weaving in between cars. I know others will strongly disagree, but I didn’t find the coast that spectacular, pretty yes, not amazing.
Positano was jammed with people with cars parked on every shoulder of the road available, so we continued on to Praiano, which was somewhat quieter and less crowded. Drove a little further south, but not all the way to Amalfi, as I had to drive back and did not want to do so as it got dark. Lots of roadside stands selling lemons and other food stuffs. Stopped at a few ceramic shops on the way back—saw some amazing pieces, beautiful and expensive hand painted pieces!!
Drive back just before twilight was fine, only a few deranged motorcyclists!!! According to a lovely American of Italian descent, who worked in a ceramics shop, a number of motorcyclists die every year on the Amalfi road--it is not surprising!!
Once we were back at the house we sat on the balcony listening to jazz and watching the lights come up on in Praiano and the surrounding hills. Using my iPod with a couple of inexpensive, little speakers was very useful, I highly recommend, throwing pair in your suitcase if your are going to be staying in an apartment of house.
I made dinner using the wonderful, right off the farm tomatoes for a simle pasta arribata, along with a salad of fresh arugala and other greens, a bottle of wine and followed up with limoncello—great meal!!! Nightlife—what nightlife. If we didn’t go out for dinner our evenings consisted of listening to music, reading and talking. We planned on going to Pompeii the next and thought that there was a possibility of taking a bus to Sorrento.
From the comments in the guestbook it appeared that some of the guests had stayed at house without cars and had used buses. I couldn’t imagine doing this consistently, but we it was worth exploring. Sister was particularly interested because she really, really didn’t want to drive. I think the prospect or having to do so once I left was a nagging concern. It wasn’t until sometime after she first expressed her dismay at the route to Sorrento that I realized that the last time we were in Tuscany and drove all over, that I had done all the driving then. Her concern was another lesson we learned about each other and traveling together—I enjoy driving, I enjoy driving winding curving roads, I see them as a challenge to be undertaken, I also don’t mind doing all the driving. Although we decided that if we were to go to Amalfi, we would get a driver so I could focus on the view—going to Amalfi was dependent on the weather and whether we went to Paetrum.
