Trip Report: Quick Trip to Sevilla, Granada, Malaga
Oct 9th, 2017 | 01:26 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 49
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Trip Report: Quick Trip to Sevilla, Granada, Malaga
We spent 5 nights in September in the south of Spain: 2 nights each in Sevilla and Granada and 1 night in Malaga. It gave us only a glimpse of the area, but enough to see the highlights and to know I want to go back for a longer visit.
Recommendations:
First, based our experience? Go carless. The streets in the historic centers of the towns are very narrow, aisles in parking garages are the same - save yourself the stress and go by train between the cities and walk or use taxis once there. Saves on parking fees as well.
Sevilla - Hotel Boutique Corral Del Rey was really lovely, on a tiny lane in the old quarter near the cathedral. In two newly renovated historic buildings, the feel of this small hotel is luxe yet relaxed. Rooms are large and well appointed. Bathrooms are awesome. The breakfast (continental breakfast included, eggs extra) was very good. Service was great. We didn't take advantage of this, but they have a service that can connect you with many different tours and experiences. About €350 a night. If it fits your budget, well worth it.
Petit Comite - excellent for dinner, about €100 for three with several courses and wine. Postiguillo, just down the street - more casual, delicious tapas, nice atmosphere and less expensive. Friendly service. El Pinton - a nice spot for a sangria and a snack.
The Alcazar - truly beautiful, be sure and get an audio guide. The Islamic and Christian interiors and varied gardens are beautiful and an oasis despite the large numbers of tourists you're sharing them with.
There were plenty of things and places we never made it to - the Plaza de Espana, the museum of the inquisition across the bridge, flamenco, etc. So much to see next time.
Granada - stay in the old quarter, the Albaicin, and explore it on foot. Wear your comfy shoes; its hily and full of cobbled stone steps and lanes. You never know when you'll stumble onto a historic convent you can tour or a tourist apartment rated by Trip Advisor you can check out for next time with a great view of the Alhambra.
We stayed at the Carmen Del Cobertizo. Very friendly and helpful staff. An unusual place with just 5 rooms. You sort of feel like you're staying in someone else's home. I think you actually are. Breakfast was just ok. Rooms at the top (3d floor, no elevator) have amazing views of the Alhambra from your terrace, which is lined with AstroTurf. The decor is heavy on fake flowers and family photos, and the patio furniture is constantly covered by tarps, but the Carman itself is beautiful, with lots of old marble and beautiful wood trim. With a little spiffing up, this place could be awesome. If you're looking for something homey and comfortable, it's ok, if you want something more, keep looking. €325 nightly for the family suite (a living room giving into the terrace, one king bedroom, one twin room (with low ceilings, best for kids) with a large connecting bath that could use some refurbishing.
The food wasn't what set Granada apart. It was the beauty and charm of the Albaicin and the awesomeness of the Alhambra. Which takes a good 4 hours of walking up and down many steps to fully see. The gardens and the moorish designs are breathtaking and the history and architecture of the Roman, Islamic and Christian cultures is fascinating. Once you get to the top, the view down towards the city is amazing. Be sure and reserve tickets well in advance. We had a private guide - $90 pp (ticket price included). There was so much to hear about and learn. Well worth it.
Malaga - we stayed at the Hotel Molina Lario. Decor of the rooms is modern business hotel - nothing to get excited about. But if you can stay in room 607, you will have a terrace as big as your room and much more impressive, overlooking the beautiful cathedral on one side and the Mediterranean on the other. It has a table where you can have breakfast and a couple of lounge chairs for your sunbathing needs. And an outdoor shower! There's also a nice rooftop pool and bar. But note: it seems to be booked by groups a lot so good luck having it to yourself.
The Picasso Museum, smallish but with a good sampling of his works, is an easy walk from the hotel, as is the Picasso Foundation and his birthplace. There's also a mini-Pompidou Centre, which is definitely worth a morning's visit. We weren't there long enough to check out the beaches, but that whole area looked inviting. We enjoyed some great paella in Malaga, and a delicious dinner at the Refectorium, around the corner from the cathedral.
Between Sevilla and Granada, we stopped in Ronda for lunch. The views are amazing but the crush of tourists made it a place I don't need to return to.
I would love to hear from others who've visited this area with suggestions for next time, including other cities to visit, when i have a more leisurely visit.
Recommendations:
First, based our experience? Go carless. The streets in the historic centers of the towns are very narrow, aisles in parking garages are the same - save yourself the stress and go by train between the cities and walk or use taxis once there. Saves on parking fees as well.
Sevilla - Hotel Boutique Corral Del Rey was really lovely, on a tiny lane in the old quarter near the cathedral. In two newly renovated historic buildings, the feel of this small hotel is luxe yet relaxed. Rooms are large and well appointed. Bathrooms are awesome. The breakfast (continental breakfast included, eggs extra) was very good. Service was great. We didn't take advantage of this, but they have a service that can connect you with many different tours and experiences. About €350 a night. If it fits your budget, well worth it.
Petit Comite - excellent for dinner, about €100 for three with several courses and wine. Postiguillo, just down the street - more casual, delicious tapas, nice atmosphere and less expensive. Friendly service. El Pinton - a nice spot for a sangria and a snack.
The Alcazar - truly beautiful, be sure and get an audio guide. The Islamic and Christian interiors and varied gardens are beautiful and an oasis despite the large numbers of tourists you're sharing them with.
There were plenty of things and places we never made it to - the Plaza de Espana, the museum of the inquisition across the bridge, flamenco, etc. So much to see next time.
Granada - stay in the old quarter, the Albaicin, and explore it on foot. Wear your comfy shoes; its hily and full of cobbled stone steps and lanes. You never know when you'll stumble onto a historic convent you can tour or a tourist apartment rated by Trip Advisor you can check out for next time with a great view of the Alhambra.
We stayed at the Carmen Del Cobertizo. Very friendly and helpful staff. An unusual place with just 5 rooms. You sort of feel like you're staying in someone else's home. I think you actually are. Breakfast was just ok. Rooms at the top (3d floor, no elevator) have amazing views of the Alhambra from your terrace, which is lined with AstroTurf. The decor is heavy on fake flowers and family photos, and the patio furniture is constantly covered by tarps, but the Carman itself is beautiful, with lots of old marble and beautiful wood trim. With a little spiffing up, this place could be awesome. If you're looking for something homey and comfortable, it's ok, if you want something more, keep looking. €325 nightly for the family suite (a living room giving into the terrace, one king bedroom, one twin room (with low ceilings, best for kids) with a large connecting bath that could use some refurbishing.
The food wasn't what set Granada apart. It was the beauty and charm of the Albaicin and the awesomeness of the Alhambra. Which takes a good 4 hours of walking up and down many steps to fully see. The gardens and the moorish designs are breathtaking and the history and architecture of the Roman, Islamic and Christian cultures is fascinating. Once you get to the top, the view down towards the city is amazing. Be sure and reserve tickets well in advance. We had a private guide - $90 pp (ticket price included). There was so much to hear about and learn. Well worth it.
Malaga - we stayed at the Hotel Molina Lario. Decor of the rooms is modern business hotel - nothing to get excited about. But if you can stay in room 607, you will have a terrace as big as your room and much more impressive, overlooking the beautiful cathedral on one side and the Mediterranean on the other. It has a table where you can have breakfast and a couple of lounge chairs for your sunbathing needs. And an outdoor shower! There's also a nice rooftop pool and bar. But note: it seems to be booked by groups a lot so good luck having it to yourself.
The Picasso Museum, smallish but with a good sampling of his works, is an easy walk from the hotel, as is the Picasso Foundation and his birthplace. There's also a mini-Pompidou Centre, which is definitely worth a morning's visit. We weren't there long enough to check out the beaches, but that whole area looked inviting. We enjoyed some great paella in Malaga, and a delicious dinner at the Refectorium, around the corner from the cathedral.
Between Sevilla and Granada, we stopped in Ronda for lunch. The views are amazing but the crush of tourists made it a place I don't need to return to.
I would love to hear from others who've visited this area with suggestions for next time, including other cities to visit, when i have a more leisurely visit.
Oct 9th, 2017 | 03:33 PM
#4
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,206
Likes: 0
Desinator,
I enjoyed your report.
We returned from this part of Spain on October 3. I just finished writing my report, which might give you some ideas for a future trip.
For a quick summary, if you return to Andalucía, you should visit Cordoba. One of our favorite cities. The Mezquita is a must-see. I also recommend dinner at Regadera, one of the best meals of our trip.
If you return to Granada, I recommend El Trillo for dinner.
And La Azotea for dinner in Seville.
Have you been to Madrid and Toledo? They are great cities, too.
And make sure to visit the Alcazaba in Malaga!
I enjoyed your report.
We returned from this part of Spain on October 3. I just finished writing my report, which might give you some ideas for a future trip.
For a quick summary, if you return to Andalucía, you should visit Cordoba. One of our favorite cities. The Mezquita is a must-see. I also recommend dinner at Regadera, one of the best meals of our trip.
If you return to Granada, I recommend El Trillo for dinner.
And La Azotea for dinner in Seville.
Have you been to Madrid and Toledo? They are great cities, too.
And make sure to visit the Alcazaba in Malaga!
Oct 11th, 2017 | 08:22 PM
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Thanks! We debated on whether we could squeeze Córdoba in but decided it was too much already. Can't wait to read your trip report. I will definitely go back to Andalucia and look forward to seeing the other parts of Spain, too. I've been focusing on France for the last several years, and this was the first foray into Spain. More to come!
