Trip report - Paris with 13-year-old daughter
#1
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Trip report - Paris with 13-year-old daughter
Just back yesterday afternoon. Thanks to all who offered counsel and support. It was wonderful, especially being with my daughter. She surprised me in so many ways -she's not a kid with lots of intellectual curiosity, but she was very observant about and interested in things. Kept stopping me to say "Mom, I need to take a picture, this looks like something important.<BR><BR>Paris was gorgeous - everything, especially tulips, in bloom. Weather was great - sunny, 50's.
#2
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Day One: Bird Market at Ile de la Cite, Notre Dame, Ile St. Louis (including Berthillon), Tuileries (tons of tulips), up Champs Elysees to Eiffel Tower. On the way back, missed a turn to our metro stop and stumbled upon a beautiful and very moving peace monument, suspect it was created post-9/11.<BR><BR>Day Two: Top of Notre Dame, Louvre (an hour, Mona Lisa mainly), Luxembourg Gardens for a picnic lunch, shopping around Rue de Rennes (which I hated) and Rues de Dragon and Cherche Midi (personal favorites). Bad dinner at Vagenonde Brasserie on St. Germain.<BR><BR>
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Day Two: Fashion show at Galeries Lafayette followed (gulp) by much shopping. Great dinner of cheese from La Fromagerie (Rue de Seine?), bread and dessert from Paul (corner Seine and Rue de Buci) in the room<BR><BR>Day Three: Breakfast at Cafe Flore, stroll along Promenade atop Viaduc des Arts, which was wonderful - great views of upper story buildings, incl. fabulous sculpted figures on one - never would have seen from street level. Visited shops/studios along Viaduc, walked to Bastille and Place des Vosges, good lunch at Ma Bourgogne. Strolle through Marais, including Rue des Rosiers, and visited Jewish Museum and Pompidou Center and nearby contemporary fountain at Place Igor Stravinsky. Teen shopping at Forum des Halles, then Sorbonne, excellent dinner at nearby Chez Maitre Paul.
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Oops, forgot about Market at Place D'Aligre day before.<BR><BR>Day Five: Mediocre omelets at Deux Magots, Versailles for the Day. More time outdoors than in - long walk to Le Hameau, Trianons, half hour self-guided tour with audio of interior. Great dinner at La Locanda, Italian restaurant on Rue de Dragon.<BR><BR>Day Six: Strolled/shopped around St. Germain (Rue Bonaparte, Rue Vavin), took our leftover cheese from the other night for a picnic at Jardin des Plantes, Sydney fed the pigeons. Rue Mouffetard, not much activity, probably too late in the day. Rue St. Honore, Elysees Palace.<BR><BR>Day Seven: Musee d'Orsay (an hour), planned to visit Musee de la Mode at the Louvre but closed till June - biggest disappointment of trip. Good but overpriced lunch at Cafe Marly at Louvre. Returned to Eiffel Tower to go up (she was too scared the first time - she was fine, I trembled the whole way). Dinner at Alcazar, trendy spot, good seafood, fabulous desserts.
#5
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Fashion report: There is a law - all French women required to wear pastel pashmina scarves. Also bowling shoes. Capris still in. Lots of black but with flashes of color.<BR><BR>People: Very friendly. Really. First day, as we were consulting map, young woman on roller blades stopped to ask if we needed help. Another time, were looking for bus stop, asked woman in sixties for help, she said it was faster to walk, and proceeded to walk us six blocks to show us the way, then told us to be careful crossing streets - her husband was killed by a motorcyclist three months ago. Woman at lunch started conversation, recommended another lunch place. <BR><BR>Spoke to shopkeeper in Rue des Rosiers (Jewish quarter) about anti-Semitism in France. Wished me mazel tov on Sydney's Bat Mitzvah, told me they're worried, there was a molotov cocktail thrown at a synagogue outside Paris that morning. I mentioned to woman in restaurant (see above) that we were Jewish and she remained friendly, although she did say that France had changed due to influx of lazy foreigners.<BR><BR>
#6
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Sydney's favorites: Bird Market, Pompidou Center (building, view from top and the art), sitting in gardens, fashion show, Versailles, Eiffel Tower. She especially loved shops devoted to perfumes, skin care, makeup (Shu Uemura and Fragonard on St. Germaine). Also, looking at and eating gorgeous pastries.<BR><BR>She was almost a different person on this trip - docile, deferential (what do YOU want to do, Mom?), easygoing, altogether delightful, not a single cross word the entire week. This from a girl who sometimes barricades herself in her room and calls me unprintable names. <BR><BR>Hotel: Deux Continents on Rue Jacob. So-so, great location. Scoped out others in neighborhood, would stay at Hotel de Seine in same area, same price, nicer rooms. Looked at Hotel des Maronniers and Millesime, slightly higher than ours, rooms almost identical to ours, concluded you pay more for nicer common areas - lobby, patio,etc. <BR><BR>Most bizarre sight: man on the metro playing Hava Nagila on the French horn. <BR><BR>Saddest thing: leaving, and worse, the successful candidacy of Le Pen which I learned about last night. Yuck!
#7
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Andi,<BR><BR>So glad that you had a great trip! As I recall you were worried before the trip. I am still staying in the Marias area. I think all will be fine. What a wonderful bonding experience for you and your daughter. Those teen years are hard but also wonderful times. Thanks for your report.
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#10
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andi-Wonderful, so glad it all went well, I know what you mean, the saddest, worst moment for me is always ....leaving!<BR>Sydney will have such great memories and this will just be the beginning of her traveling here there,everywhere! we did something similar with our son and he hasn't stopped since he left college, always somewhere far away,planning another trip~<BR>You are a good mom
#11
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Andi, What a great report and a wonderful and important memory for you and your daughter. You probably already know this, but everyone's 13 year old daughter calls them unprintable names. That was the most free-ing thing for me to find out when I had 13 year olds.
#16
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So glad all went well. Wonderful trip report and thanks soooo much for the "fashion update" and the update on some political views in France as well.<BR>I will be staying at the Millesime in July. I hope it's nice. Let me know if you went inside.<BR>
#17
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Answers to questions:<BR><BR>Leslie - the Bird Market, which I first visited in '78, is on the same site as the flower market, on the Ile de la Cite. I believe the flower market takes place daily; the birds (and other small pets - gerbils, bunnies) arrive on Sundays only. Vendors display absolutely gorgeous birds, large and small, in cages, all for sale. They're lovely to look at and the whole event is interesting and fun for all ages.<BR><BR>Claire - they predicted clouds every day I was there, and it's true, there were some, white fluffy ones in a very blue sky, with lots of sun. Temps ranged from low to high fifties - higher later in the week, so you'll probably get low sixties. I brought a (brand new, purchased for the trip) lightweight black raincoat, wore once and didn't really need to. Wore light leather jacket and sweater. Bring lightweight gloves and a scarf...or better still buy a pastel pashmina and toss around neck with insouciance and maybe you'll be mistaken for a French woman. Don't bring shoes, buy some bowling shoes on Rue du Dragon or Cherche Midi.<BR><BR>Pam - Millesime looks very nice, typically small rooms with some charm, lovely lobby, I think they had a nice little patio, great location.<BR><BR>Kavey - my favorite, just being in Paris and having my daughter with me - what more could I ask for?
#19
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andi,<BR><BR>what a wonderful trip report. i too remember your pre trip nerves and am so glad this work out so well.<BR><BR>I had tears in my eyes, my mom and I (i'm 42 shes 64) go somewhere just the two of us every year now. we have a blast. we both love gardens and antiques and museums and have a wonderful time together. <BR><BR>maybe this will be the start of your own mother/daughter tradition? <BR><BR>best wishes<BR>sandy c

