I took the SCNF train from Paris to Blois where I spent the next two nights at Hotel Mecure. It had a fairly large room and a very large bathroom and the bed was fairly comfortable. When you looked closely though, it was so dirty. There were squished bugs on the lighter curtains. The heavier curtains were full of duct tape on the side facing the window. Dust all along the headboard and lots of mold in the tub. It was adequate for two nights though. It's a bit further of walk from the downtown, but not bad at all (around 20 minute walk to train station).

I took the english tour of the Chateaux Blois - I recommend it. I like hearing the "inside" stories that you don't always get from a guide. For example, I would never have picked up on the animal enblams of the kings unless it was explained to me. Since it was, at other chateaux, I enjoyed looking for the enblams - mainly porcupine and salamanders. The tourist office has a great walking tour map with four different routes. I did one and really enjoyed it - especially the acrobat timber house and the Jardins de l'eveche (beautiful gardens filled with locals and fantastic views of the town and the Loire). I was pleased that many of the buildings have plaques in english explaining the details and significance of the buildings. Blois is a very tourist-friendly town (though the staff at the tourist office didn't seem to like tourists too much). I asked at the hotel about taking a tour to visit chateaux in the surrounding areas. The receptionist made a phone call but said the tour for the next day (Tuesday) was full and that I would have to take the train to Tours to catch a tour. So I stopped by the Tourist office and they sold me ticket for the TLC bus which takes you to Chambord and Cheverny. You can take the bus in the morning or afternoon. I took the morning one and stayed at Chambord for 5 hours and then went to Cheverny for around 1 hour. I loved Chambord. I purchased the english headphone tour. The headphones were better than nothing, but they didn't tell interesting facts about the chateux. I wandered around inside for a while then rented a bike and rode around the forest for 2 hours. I absolutely recommend renting the bikes. It was relaxing and gave me the chance to explore and enjoy being out of the city. Cheverny was ok - the interior was a bit interesting, but I could have lived without seeing it.

The next day I took the train to Amboise and got a room for one night at La Breche. It was very inexpensive and run-down, but worth the price. It was steps from the train station and around a ten minute walk to the town center. Amboise is pretty, but I'd run out of things after a day. I loved the Le Clos Luce and highly recommend it. The interior was amazingly well lit from the sun - on a partly cloudy day! No wonder da Vince spent his last years here. The grounds were interesting too - the cleanest bathrooms there were behind the film building. I then visited the Chateux Amboise and was amazed at the height (and that people thought nothing of sitting on a wall that drops 70 feet straight down!). Definitely worth the visit. An absolute must -- when walking on the street to La Clos Luce, peek to the left at the "cave dwellings." I took the Fil Ver bus to Chenencou - very easy. The tourist office at Amboise was very helpful in giving me information on getting to Chenencou. It was rainy and I wasn't feeling very well, so I didn't spend much time there. The rooms were so packed with tourists that I couldn't get into many. If you plan to visit, I would post a question to others to see if they know what time of day it is less packed.

The next day, I headed to Angers for just 5 hours. I intended to leave my bag at Tours, but when I got there the bag storage was closed. The person at the information desk said I could leave my bag with a shopkeeper down the street, but that didn't sit well with me. I took a train to Angers, and fortunately they had baggage storage there. There's a cheap internet cafe of Rue National - at the end closer to the post office.

I visted the Chateux at Angers which was the type of castle I was hoping to see - very medievel and more like a fortress than the more "modern" chateaux. The world's longest tapestry was also amazing to see - I didn't think I would find it interesting, but I did. I then wandered around Angers, especially on the other side of the river. There's alot to just stumble upon.

Thanks VERY much for this report. We are planning to spend several days next year in the area and using Amboise as a base.

My question to you, as ridiculous as it might seem, is this: do you think your touring would have been easier if you had had a rental car?

Thanks very much.

Thanks for your report. I also went to the Loire solo about 2 years ago. I rented a car, though, and stayed for about 10 days. I loved it! Stayed in Tours, Amboise, Chinon, and Saumur. I ended up in Angers to return the car and take train back to Paris. I, too, enjoyed the chateau at Angers (and Amboise!). I also loved Chinon - very medieval.

I would rent a car. I just didn't want to since I don't speak french and thought I would have a hard time trying to drive and follow a map at the same time. By renting a car you can go at your own pace and look for less touristy things along the way. For example, the bus ride from Amboise to Chenounceau was scenic and it would have been nice to stop and enjoy some of the views.

Thanks very much for your reply to my question as it will be very helpful in planning my trip next year.