Need help with Loire Valley trip - car rental or train?
Feb 3rd, 2003, 06:04 PM
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Need help with Loire Valley trip - car rental or train?
I have a two-week trip to France planned for May, and feel like the most indecisive person in the world, with all my vacillating back and forth, with where and how long to stay in certain places, and whether to get a car. Plans right now(today!):
4 nights Paris; 3 nights Amboise; 2 nights Chinon; 3 nights Saumur; last night Paris(probably CDG).
I have spent alot of time in Paris in the past but have never been in provincial France, and I love French history, so the Loire Valley interests me greatly. My main dilemma is whether to rent a car or use the trains. I am in my 60's, and traveling solo... so. I am used to big-city driving, and can use a manual car OK(not too willingly!) - and can speak passable "tourist" French. But the idea of navigating and driving alone makes me a little nervous. Of course I won't drive from Paris - will take the TGV. If I decide to do the trains, it sounds "do-able" (I've checked out the schedules, etc. on SNCF.COM).
I would much rather the flexibility of having a car, and be able to go to more small villages, etc.
Anybody out there who has done this (driving in the Loire Valley) what advice would you give to your
mother (or youngish, independent grandmother)??
4 nights Paris; 3 nights Amboise; 2 nights Chinon; 3 nights Saumur; last night Paris(probably CDG).
I have spent alot of time in Paris in the past but have never been in provincial France, and I love French history, so the Loire Valley interests me greatly. My main dilemma is whether to rent a car or use the trains. I am in my 60's, and traveling solo... so. I am used to big-city driving, and can use a manual car OK(not too willingly!) - and can speak passable "tourist" French. But the idea of navigating and driving alone makes me a little nervous. Of course I won't drive from Paris - will take the TGV. If I decide to do the trains, it sounds "do-able" (I've checked out the schedules, etc. on SNCF.COM).
I would much rather the flexibility of having a car, and be able to go to more small villages, etc.
Anybody out there who has done this (driving in the Loire Valley) what advice would you give to your
mother (or youngish, independent grandmother)??
Feb 3rd, 2003, 06:39 PM
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Sue:
The Loire Valley doesn't require a whole lot of navigational skills - essentially, you're driving along one or the other bank of the river visiting sights that are right there to the right or left. I wouldn't worry about it. I did it by myself with my two kids three years ago and it was one of the easiest trips, navigation-wise, I can recall. You'll have far more freedom and flexibility with a car and will be able to see much more. Do it.
I think your itinerary is great for a 2-week stay. Just pick the car up outside Paris (Tours would be the logical place) and ditch it before you get back to Paris (you might want to think of stopping in Chartres on the way back and leaving the car there and training back to Paris from there).
The Loire Valley doesn't require a whole lot of navigational skills - essentially, you're driving along one or the other bank of the river visiting sights that are right there to the right or left. I wouldn't worry about it. I did it by myself with my two kids three years ago and it was one of the easiest trips, navigation-wise, I can recall. You'll have far more freedom and flexibility with a car and will be able to see much more. Do it.
I think your itinerary is great for a 2-week stay. Just pick the car up outside Paris (Tours would be the logical place) and ditch it before you get back to Paris (you might want to think of stopping in Chartres on the way back and leaving the car there and training back to Paris from there).
Feb 3rd, 2003, 07:06 PM
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Thanks for the encouragement, St. Cirq.
That's what I needed! I do plan to pick car up in Tours. The Chartres idea sounds good. I had thought about that, but wasn't sure if I wanted to drive that far. I've never been there, so certainly want to do it sometime. I have an 11:30 flight out of CDG, so need to spend the night somewhere near the airport or Paris. Wish Chartres were closer, so I could spend the last night there! I had thought about making a daytrip to Chartres on one of my days in Paris, but since I will only have 4 days there, I don't know. I suppose I could pick a car up in Chartres, see the cathedral, and drive on to Amboise.
But that probably wouldn't give me enough time at Chartres. Oh, well, I'm sure I'll be back to Paris again (but probably not the Loire), so Chartres would be something to look forward to!
That's what I needed! I do plan to pick car up in Tours. The Chartres idea sounds good. I had thought about that, but wasn't sure if I wanted to drive that far. I've never been there, so certainly want to do it sometime. I have an 11:30 flight out of CDG, so need to spend the night somewhere near the airport or Paris. Wish Chartres were closer, so I could spend the last night there! I had thought about making a daytrip to Chartres on one of my days in Paris, but since I will only have 4 days there, I don't know. I suppose I could pick a car up in Chartres, see the cathedral, and drive on to Amboise.
But that probably wouldn't give me enough time at Chartres. Oh, well, I'm sure I'll be back to Paris again (but probably not the Loire), so Chartres would be something to look forward to!
Feb 4th, 2003, 08:16 AM
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StCirq is right; driving the Loire Valley is easy. It isn’t all that big. www.viamichelin.com says it’s a 2 hour drive from Chartres to Amboise. You could get to Chartres and see a morning Malcolm Miller tour of the cathedral. Have lunch, rent your car and be on the road by 2:30pm. You’d make Amboise 5:30 at the latest and have plenty of daylight for driving around to find your hotel.
I think you’ve picked a great mix of towns. I saw those three and others in May of 2001 mostly by myself and had a ball.
Chinon is really nice because it’s an actual castle ruin with a tower to visit. This is unlike most of the chateaux in the Loire which were built as pleasure palaces. In Chinon I stayed at the Hotel Diederot. I had a huge room (for France) that was built back into the limestone so the interior walls were solid rock. I remember a restaurant along the water near the center of town that was really good. “Deux Boules d’Or” or something like that.
In Saumur I was with family so I stayed at a Best Western on the island in order to get a quad room. The Anne d’Anjou hotel looked very nice though. We enjoyed the visit of the mushroom museum and took a sailboat ride down the Loire which was pleasant and relaxing. The Saumur castle houses a couple of museums that are interesting to see. One is equestrian stuff and the other is furnishings.
I only took a daytrip by rail to Amboise so I didn’t stay there. Try to find the “Enchanted House” museum. It’s stuffed with antique toys. And of course the Clos de Luce was fascinating.
I think you’ve picked a great mix of towns. I saw those three and others in May of 2001 mostly by myself and had a ball.
Chinon is really nice because it’s an actual castle ruin with a tower to visit. This is unlike most of the chateaux in the Loire which were built as pleasure palaces. In Chinon I stayed at the Hotel Diederot. I had a huge room (for France) that was built back into the limestone so the interior walls were solid rock. I remember a restaurant along the water near the center of town that was really good. “Deux Boules d’Or” or something like that.
In Saumur I was with family so I stayed at a Best Western on the island in order to get a quad room. The Anne d’Anjou hotel looked very nice though. We enjoyed the visit of the mushroom museum and took a sailboat ride down the Loire which was pleasant and relaxing. The Saumur castle houses a couple of museums that are interesting to see. One is equestrian stuff and the other is furnishings.
I only took a daytrip by rail to Amboise so I didn’t stay there. Try to find the “Enchanted House” museum. It’s stuffed with antique toys. And of course the Clos de Luce was fascinating.
Feb 4th, 2003, 09:34 AM
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While you are in Saumur and Chinon, try to visit the nearby Fontevraud royal abbey. We found it very interesting and informative; its connection with King Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine and King Richard the Lionheart is just one part of its fascinating history.
A change of pace from all the medieval history is the Parc Oriental de Maulevrier by Cholet--it's the largest Japanese garden in Europe and should be beautiful in May (closed Mondays).
The Maison des Vins du Saumur in Saumur is very helpful; we tasted several wines and bought about a half dozen bottles there. However, it's not staffed very well--when we were there, only one person was working and he was on the phone when we arrived. We had to wait about 20 minutes while he finished his phone call. But once we finally got his attention, he was quite helpful.
Our favorite wine, however, was a delicious 1997 red from the Couly-Dutheuil vineyards. Their winery is located right across the street from the chateau in Chinon. We left with three cases, now gone, wished we'd bought more.
We spent about 2 weeks in the western Loire in late October/November 2002 and had the Hotel Mercure in Angers as our base. The staff there couldn't have been nicer and our room was VERY comfortable with a delightful view of the Jardin des Plantes; we also appreciated the free, secure, underground parking. The Mercure is a modern, business oriented hotel, not quaint, but it was perfect for us--traveling as we were with a dog and two birds! We loved Angers and can't wait to go back in April.
Have a wonderful trip.
A change of pace from all the medieval history is the Parc Oriental de Maulevrier by Cholet--it's the largest Japanese garden in Europe and should be beautiful in May (closed Mondays).
The Maison des Vins du Saumur in Saumur is very helpful; we tasted several wines and bought about a half dozen bottles there. However, it's not staffed very well--when we were there, only one person was working and he was on the phone when we arrived. We had to wait about 20 minutes while he finished his phone call. But once we finally got his attention, he was quite helpful.
Our favorite wine, however, was a delicious 1997 red from the Couly-Dutheuil vineyards. Their winery is located right across the street from the chateau in Chinon. We left with three cases, now gone, wished we'd bought more.
We spent about 2 weeks in the western Loire in late October/November 2002 and had the Hotel Mercure in Angers as our base. The staff there couldn't have been nicer and our room was VERY comfortable with a delightful view of the Jardin des Plantes; we also appreciated the free, secure, underground parking. The Mercure is a modern, business oriented hotel, not quaint, but it was perfect for us--traveling as we were with a dog and two birds! We loved Angers and can't wait to go back in April.
Have a wonderful trip.
Feb 4th, 2003, 04:11 PM
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Thanks so much for all your wonderful responses. I've decided to definitely rent the car. Will think about the Chartres idea, as it would save the earlier daytrip from Paris. Otherwise will pick up car at St. Pierre des Corps.
Was glad to hear about a good experience at the Hotel Diderot, and also all the ideas about what to see. My other hotels will be Le Manoir Les Minimes in Chinon and Anne d'Anjou in Saumur. I've heard favorable things about Les Minimes on this Board. Anyone stayed at the Anne d'Anjou who can comment?
For a hotel in Paris, I think I'm finally going to stay at the Hotel Grandes Ecoles, altho I'm torn between that and my favorite hotel near Montparnasse, which is so convenient for Air France Bus and trains. But there are always so many good comments about the Grandes Ecoles, I thought I'd better see for myself. I'm getting so excited about this trip - and your great responses make me more so!
Was glad to hear about a good experience at the Hotel Diderot, and also all the ideas about what to see. My other hotels will be Le Manoir Les Minimes in Chinon and Anne d'Anjou in Saumur. I've heard favorable things about Les Minimes on this Board. Anyone stayed at the Anne d'Anjou who can comment?
For a hotel in Paris, I think I'm finally going to stay at the Hotel Grandes Ecoles, altho I'm torn between that and my favorite hotel near Montparnasse, which is so convenient for Air France Bus and trains. But there are always so many good comments about the Grandes Ecoles, I thought I'd better see for myself. I'm getting so excited about this trip - and your great responses make me more so!
