Trip Report: Paris and Rouen
Apr 13th, 2006, 04:23 AM
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Francophile -- Thank you. To think that I didn't go to the Tomb sooner. Assumed that it was a guy thing, etc. I even enjoyed the museum although I zipped through.
Todd - Thanks to you, too. I stayed at Hotel Royal Phare. Right at the top of the metro Ecole Militaire. It was okay. Certainly for the price of 67 euro. My first choice had been Eber-Mar, but it was booked for my dates. I an surprised that there are so many budget options in the 7th frankly.
Todd - Thanks to you, too. I stayed at Hotel Royal Phare. Right at the top of the metro Ecole Militaire. It was okay. Certainly for the price of 67 euro. My first choice had been Eber-Mar, but it was booked for my dates. I an surprised that there are so many budget options in the 7th frankly.
Apr 13th, 2006, 05:10 AM
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cchottel: Great report. I had a similiar 'downhill' day in Senlis on my last trip to Paris in March so I know how that can be. But, still a great trip.
Travelnut - I love your pictures and even though I just got back, now I want to go again. And I must say that you and your hubby are a really cute couple and your hubby looks very distinguished! Thanks for sharing.
Travelnut - I love your pictures and even though I just got back, now I want to go again. And I must say that you and your hubby are a really cute couple and your hubby looks very distinguished! Thanks for sharing.
Apr 13th, 2006, 07:17 AM
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Thanks for everyone's sympathy, but really my day didn't warrant it. It was nothing more than a speedbump in a wonderful trip and it was certainly eventful. This was my trip report, so I reported it. As I said, any other circumstances, I might have loved Rouen.
Things go wrong, but more goes right. I'd rather think about it.
Things go wrong, but more goes right. I'd rather think about it.
Apr 13th, 2006, 07:40 AM
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Hi cc 
What a pity for Rouen (and Dijon when it rained) I'm afraid you'll have to come back later in the nice season! ;-)
I went to the FNAC this afternoon and saw Amine's record! I know now who he is, I simply didn't know his name. I heard him on TV and radio, nice voice.
Did you go to la Fnac when you were waiting for your second train in Rouen? You should have!
What a pity for Rouen (and Dijon when it rained) I'm afraid you'll have to come back later in the nice season! ;-)
I went to the FNAC this afternoon and saw Amine's record! I know now who he is, I simply didn't know his name. I heard him on TV and radio, nice voice.
Did you go to la Fnac when you were waiting for your second train in Rouen? You should have!
Apr 13th, 2006, 08:28 AM
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No I didn't. Since by that time, the riot police were being sent out in droves, I decided it would be best for me to stay at the station out of the way. I always have a book with me. Remember the one I make smaller and smaller?
I do love what I have heard from Amine, but I now don't think it was Amine who does the one song I kept hearing on the radio while I was there. I really like it. I heard it so often and heard it while waiting for the train in Rouen. That is how I got started talking to the young men from Senegal. I asked if they knew who did the song? They didn't either, but they agreed they liked it.
I discovered I can get Amine and de Palmas, etc. on-line at amazon.com.
As for the rain, the worst part about rain isn't getting wet. After all my mother used to tell me "You aren't sugar and you won't melt." But photographs look so much better on a "Sunny 16 day." A day with blue skies, a few nice white clouds, and sunshine. So many of my photos just look too gray and all the brightening just isn't going to change that.
I want you to know that I really am missing France. I have been in a funk ever since I got back. No, I'm not my usual Polyanna cheerful self. Guess that means it is time to start planning my next trip. Hmmm, where to?
I do love what I have heard from Amine, but I now don't think it was Amine who does the one song I kept hearing on the radio while I was there. I really like it. I heard it so often and heard it while waiting for the train in Rouen. That is how I got started talking to the young men from Senegal. I asked if they knew who did the song? They didn't either, but they agreed they liked it.
I discovered I can get Amine and de Palmas, etc. on-line at amazon.com.
As for the rain, the worst part about rain isn't getting wet. After all my mother used to tell me "You aren't sugar and you won't melt." But photographs look so much better on a "Sunny 16 day." A day with blue skies, a few nice white clouds, and sunshine. So many of my photos just look too gray and all the brightening just isn't going to change that.
I want you to know that I really am missing France. I have been in a funk ever since I got back. No, I'm not my usual Polyanna cheerful self. Guess that means it is time to start planning my next trip. Hmmm, where to?
Apr 13th, 2006, 11:47 AM
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cchottel,
Thanks for the great trip report! I enjoyed it very much. We were thinking of a day trip to Rouen, though, and I'm having second thoughts now. Maybe we'll just go back to Giverny instead. I think you handled the difficulties of Rouen well. Good you had that book!
Sandy
Thanks for the great trip report! I enjoyed it very much. We were thinking of a day trip to Rouen, though, and I'm having second thoughts now. Maybe we'll just go back to Giverny instead. I think you handled the difficulties of Rouen well. Good you had that book!
Sandy
Apr 13th, 2006, 12:41 PM
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Sandy, I have this trick when I travel. I buy cheap second-hand paperbacks from the library. I stick one in my purse (but it is always a tight fit). As I read it, I rip the pages I've read out of the book, so it keeps getting thinner and easier to carry. Coco, like my daughter, can't believe I could rip up a book. I wouldn't if it were a hardcover, but in this case, it doesn't bother me.
Travelnut liked Rouen, so maybe it isn't so bad. Are you a Monet enthusiast? I think I saw a poster for an upcoming exhibit in Rouen. That might make all the difference for you. I'm not a Monet lover.
If you thinking of Rouen because of the half-timbered buildings, you will find a number of them in Dijon, too. That could be a day trip. If you haven't been to Dijon, read my Dijon report.
Travelnut liked Rouen, so maybe it isn't so bad. Are you a Monet enthusiast? I think I saw a poster for an upcoming exhibit in Rouen. That might make all the difference for you. I'm not a Monet lover.
If you thinking of Rouen because of the half-timbered buildings, you will find a number of them in Dijon, too. That could be a day trip. If you haven't been to Dijon, read my Dijon report.
Apr 13th, 2006, 01:47 PM
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My next day trip is to Provins...
http://www.provins.net/
http://www.provins.org/English_version/english.htm
http://www.provins.net/
http://www.provins.org/English_version/english.htm
Apr 13th, 2006, 02:26 PM
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cchottel,
I know a lot of people who tear apart guide books, so they won't have to carry the whole thing. I can't do it Thanks for the tip on the Monet exhibit, but we won't be going until 2007, so that will probably be long over. Dijon is a place I'd like to see. I hadn't thought of it as a day trip, but something to think about. I will read your Dijon report. Thanks!
Sandy
I know a lot of people who tear apart guide books, so they won't have to carry the whole thing. I can't do it
Thanks for the tip on the Monet exhibit, but we won't be going until 2007, so that will probably be long over. Dijon is a place I'd like to see. I hadn't thought of it as a day trip, but something to think about. I will read your Dijon report. Thanks!Sandy
Apr 14th, 2006, 06:27 AM
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To Cchottel :
Bonjour !
I can understand your disappointment when you visited MY town because you chose a Tuesday (a day when all national museums are closed in France) and, unfortunately, the weather was grey and there were demonstrations throughough the town... But, please, do come back on a spring or summer day, NOT on a Tuesday if you want to have access to our beautiful Musée des Beaux-Arts (one of the richest in France, see my post in the thread dedicated to it), our interesting "Musée de la Céramique" located in the old "Conservatoire de Musique" and uncommon "Musée de la Ferronnerie" called "Le Secq des Tournelles"
Since I'm a "Rouennaise" (I was born in Rouen and live here), I must be partial to my town which I love in spite of its quite often wet climate and the presence of pollution which accounts for the dark aspect of the stone which is still found on some of our old churches, etc. I think I'm lucky to live in a town where one can admire at least 200 townhouses from the 17th and 18th century (plus the superb 16th century "Bourgtheroulde Résidence" where a bank is located... on the Place de la Pucelle), dozens of half-timbered houses dating from the 15th, 16th, 17th and 18th century, plus lots of beautiful churches (among which, my favourite : the Saint-Maclou church), the highest cast iron spire of its cathedral Notre-Dame (which rises to the height of 151 metres/491 feet), one of the most numerous stained-glass windows in France dating from the 13th to the 16th century (among which the wonderful Renaissance windows from St Vincent's Church which have been preserved during WWII and relocated in the modern church of St Joan of Arc, on Old Market Square which one must enter to admire them...)
Here are various web sites which you and/or other forumites may find of interest :
- the Tourism Office, of course : http://www.rouen.fr/accueil/index.p
- a very complete web site listing all the places of interest in our town : http://www.visite-de-rouen.com/ translation in English, beware of the translation at times : http://66.249.93.104/translate_c?hl=...language_tools
- a wonderful site made by one of our best "conférenciers", Jacques Tanguy :
http://www.rouen-histoire.com/
- on the previous site, one has access to a GORGEOUS page where one can click on various parts of the north façade of the Cathedral "Notre-Dame" and discover a photo and some explanations of each statue of saint : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Facade.htm
- plus a list of the saints't statues which also shows a pic of the façade and the location of each statue which has been restored and put back on the façade : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Saints.htm
- on this web page, one can have access to the pages (from the book written by Jacques Tanguy) dedicated to our... "Gros-Horloge" which is being renovated presently : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Itiner...neraires_1.pdf
- page where one can find a list of the churches containing some beautiful stained-glass windows : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Vitraux.htm
- oldest townhouse called "l'Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde" on the Place de la Pucelle ("hôtel particulier"
: http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Hot_Bourg/index.htm
Bon, voilà! Hope I have a little convinced you to come back one day and visit MY town on a sunny day and without any stupid strikes AND not a Tuesday (I'm pulling your leg !/je vous taquine !) Cordialement. Marie (Rouen, Normandy)
Bonjour !
I can understand your disappointment when you visited MY town because you chose a Tuesday (a day when all national museums are closed in France) and, unfortunately, the weather was grey and there were demonstrations throughough the town... But, please, do come back on a spring or summer day, NOT on a Tuesday if you want to have access to our beautiful Musée des Beaux-Arts (one of the richest in France, see my post in the thread dedicated to it), our interesting "Musée de la Céramique" located in the old "Conservatoire de Musique" and uncommon "Musée de la Ferronnerie" called "Le Secq des Tournelles"
Since I'm a "Rouennaise" (I was born in Rouen and live here), I must be partial to my town which I love in spite of its quite often wet climate and the presence of pollution which accounts for the dark aspect of the stone which is still found on some of our old churches, etc. I think I'm lucky to live in a town where one can admire at least 200 townhouses from the 17th and 18th century (plus the superb 16th century "Bourgtheroulde Résidence" where a bank is located... on the Place de la Pucelle), dozens of half-timbered houses dating from the 15th, 16th, 17th and 18th century, plus lots of beautiful churches (among which, my favourite : the Saint-Maclou church), the highest cast iron spire of its cathedral Notre-Dame (which rises to the height of 151 metres/491 feet), one of the most numerous stained-glass windows in France dating from the 13th to the 16th century (among which the wonderful Renaissance windows from St Vincent's Church which have been preserved during WWII and relocated in the modern church of St Joan of Arc, on Old Market Square which one must enter to admire them...)
Here are various web sites which you and/or other forumites may find of interest :
- the Tourism Office, of course : http://www.rouen.fr/accueil/index.p
- a very complete web site listing all the places of interest in our town : http://www.visite-de-rouen.com/ translation in English, beware of the translation at times : http://66.249.93.104/translate_c?hl=...language_tools
- a wonderful site made by one of our best "conférenciers", Jacques Tanguy :
http://www.rouen-histoire.com/
- on the previous site, one has access to a GORGEOUS page where one can click on various parts of the north façade of the Cathedral "Notre-Dame" and discover a photo and some explanations of each statue of saint : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Facade.htm
- plus a list of the saints't statues which also shows a pic of the façade and the location of each statue which has been restored and put back on the façade : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Saints.htm
- on this web page, one can have access to the pages (from the book written by Jacques Tanguy) dedicated to our... "Gros-Horloge" which is being renovated presently : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Itiner...neraires_1.pdf
- page where one can find a list of the churches containing some beautiful stained-glass windows : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Vitraux.htm
- oldest townhouse called "l'Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde" on the Place de la Pucelle ("hôtel particulier"
: http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Hot_Bourg/index.htmBon, voilà
! Hope I have a little convinced you to come back one day and visit MY town on a sunny day and without any stupid strikes AND not a Tuesday (I'm pulling your leg !/je vous taquine !) Cordialement. Marie (Rouen, Normandy)
Apr 14th, 2006, 06:31 AM
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To Travelnut :
Allow me to say "bonjour" to you and thank you for the beautiful pics you took of my town, Rouen ;-) !!! I also admired the other photos one finds in the album you kindly shared with us ;-)
The pics you took of the statues of saints a few weeks before they were put back on the north façade of our Cathédrale "Notre-Dame" are very interesting. I saw them while helping one of my American friends coming from California to visit Rouen. You'll find lots of them on the pages belonging to the site I've just indicated in my previous post : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Facade.htm
- plus a list of the saints't statues which also shows a pic of the façade and the location of each statue which has been restored and put back on the façade : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Saints.htm
Allow me to say "bonjour" to you and thank you for the beautiful pics you took of my town, Rouen ;-) !!! I also admired the other photos one finds in the album you kindly shared with us ;-)
The pics you took of the statues of saints a few weeks before they were put back on the north façade of our Cathédrale "Notre-Dame" are very interesting. I saw them while helping one of my American friends coming from California to visit Rouen. You'll find lots of them on the pages belonging to the site I've just indicated in my previous post : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Facade.htm
- plus a list of the saints't statues which also shows a pic of the façade and the location of each statue which has been restored and put back on the façade : http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Saints.htm
Apr 14th, 2006, 06:45 AM
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Marie007, thanks for all the information. I had done the research accept I didn't know everything was undergoing renovation, that hurt.
Unfortunately, I was only in northern France for two days and I let's face it, I had to be somewhere on a Tuesday. I really thought what was open, would take up more time and my interest. I thought really thought there would be more about St. Joan, too.
As for coming in the summer, I don't travel then. Prefer to go when the crowds are less and the prices are cheaper. But I will say, I looked into a little courtyard, with half-timbered buildings and a pretty tree was in bloom and it was lovely. However, it was too dark in the courtyard to get a decent picture.
I really have nothing against Rouen, as I said, it was a combination of many things that made it less than a perfect day.
I'm glad you are proud of your town. It has a wonderful heritage and the people were very friendly and helpful.
Unfortunately, I was only in northern France for two days and I let's face it, I had to be somewhere on a Tuesday. I really thought what was open, would take up more time and my interest. I thought really thought there would be more about St. Joan, too.
As for coming in the summer, I don't travel then. Prefer to go when the crowds are less and the prices are cheaper. But I will say, I looked into a little courtyard, with half-timbered buildings and a pretty tree was in bloom and it was lovely. However, it was too dark in the courtyard to get a decent picture.
I really have nothing against Rouen, as I said, it was a combination of many things that made it less than a perfect day.
I'm glad you are proud of your town. It has a wonderful heritage and the people were very friendly and helpful.
Apr 14th, 2006, 07:08 AM
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To Travelnut :
Allow me to say "bonjour" to you and thank you for the beautiful pics you took of my town, Rouen ;-) !!! I also admired the other photos of Paris one finds in the album you kindly shared with us ;-) The pics are excellent and reveal your love for France and even, if I'm not wrong, for my "compatriotes", which is not very common among tourists ;-)
Among the pictures you took of Rouen, the pics you took of the statues of saints, inside the "Cathédrale Notre-Dame", around the "choeur", a few weeks before they were put back on the north façade of our Cathédrale, are very interesting. I saw them while helping one of my American friends coming from California to discover the "trésors de ma ville" You'll find lots of them on the pages belonging to the site I've just indicated in my previous post :
- http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Facade.htm
- http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Saints.htm
I can see you dared to "sortir des sentiers battus" and you took the "venelle"/alleyway which links the Rue Saint-Romain to the Rue Saint-Nicolas". I always have my friends walk along this very narrow "passage", especially... at night because it makes us realize the way Rouen was in the Middle-Ages and the past centuries ;-)
Here is a list of web pages related to... Rouen, of course, recommended by our Office du Tourisme : http://www.rouen.fr/decouvrir/histoire.php
I wonder if you could enter Saint-Ouen Abbey where one can admire beautiful 14th and 15th century stained-glass windows and contains one of the best organs in France : one made by the famous "facteur d'orgues"/organ builder : Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, in 1890, its "buffet"/case dating from the 16th century... Since you visited one of the most peaceful and strange but beautiful "yards" in Rouen : "l'Aître Saint-Maclou", you could admire one of St-Ouen Abbey towers where one is supposed to see the 3 symbols of a bishop (when seen from the yard/"la cour de l'Aître Saint-Maclou"
Yet, as I said in my previous post, my favourite church in Rouen is l'Eglise Saint-Maclou, which is a masterpiece of Flamboyant Gothic architecture... It's both very beautiful but... kind of "intimate" because it's remained on a human scale. My father had the privilege to play cello during the very last mass before the night when the choir of the church was destroyed on Aug. 4th, 1944 by a bomb... The choir was not reopened until... 1980 ! I would have loved our daughter to marry there next July, but she has preferred getting married in the nice and humble church of our village, which I may understand ;-) If you saw the narrow staircase made of a wonderful "dentelle de pierre" (stone filigree ???) which leads to the organ, can you imagine my father who is quite tall ascending the steps with his cello ?!!!
Well, I hope I haven't bored you stiff with my "radotage" (ranting ???) Bonne journée aux States ! Cordialement. Marie
Allow me to say "bonjour" to you and thank you for the beautiful pics you took of my town, Rouen ;-) !!! I also admired the other photos of Paris one finds in the album you kindly shared with us ;-) The pics are excellent and reveal your love for France and even, if I'm not wrong, for my "compatriotes", which is not very common among tourists ;-)
Among the pictures you took of Rouen, the pics you took of the statues of saints, inside the "Cathédrale Notre-Dame", around the "choeur", a few weeks before they were put back on the north façade of our Cathédrale, are very interesting. I saw them while helping one of my American friends coming from California to discover the "trésors de ma ville"
You'll find lots of them on the pages belonging to the site I've just indicated in my previous post : - http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Facade.htm
- http://www.rouen-histoire.com/Statues/Saints.htm
I can see you dared to "sortir des sentiers battus" and you took the "venelle"/alleyway which links the Rue Saint-Romain to the Rue Saint-Nicolas". I always have my friends walk along this very narrow "passage", especially... at night because it makes us realize the way Rouen was in the Middle-Ages and the past centuries ;-)
Here is a list of web pages related to... Rouen, of course
, recommended by our Office du Tourisme : http://www.rouen.fr/decouvrir/histoire.phpI wonder if you could enter Saint-Ouen Abbey where one can admire beautiful 14th and 15th century stained-glass windows and contains one of the best organs in France : one made by the famous "facteur d'orgues"/organ builder : Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, in 1890, its "buffet"/case dating from the 16th century... Since you visited one of the most peaceful and strange but beautiful "yards" in Rouen : "l'Aître Saint-Maclou", you could admire one of St-Ouen Abbey towers where one is supposed to see the 3 symbols of a bishop (when seen from the yard/"la cour de l'Aître Saint-Maclou"
Yet, as I said in my previous post, my favourite church in Rouen is l'Eglise Saint-Maclou, which is a masterpiece of Flamboyant Gothic architecture... It's both very beautiful but... kind of "intimate" because it's remained on a human scale. My father had the privilege to play cello during the very last mass before the night when the choir of the church was destroyed on Aug. 4th, 1944 by a bomb... The choir was not reopened until... 1980 ! I would have loved our daughter to marry there next July, but she has preferred getting married in the nice and humble church of our village
, which I may understand ;-) If you saw the narrow staircase made of a wonderful "dentelle de pierre" (stone filigree ???) which leads to the organ, can you imagine my father who is quite tall ascending the steps with his cello ?!!!Well, I hope I haven't bored you stiff with my "radotage" (ranting ???)
Bonne journée aux States ! Cordialement. Marie
Apr 14th, 2006, 08:03 AM
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Bonjour, Marie - where were you -before- I planned my trip..?
Thank you for all your helpful comments, especially about the statues as I wasn't sure about them. Our visit was too short, I can see that, and we didn't go into any museums..sounds like a return is in order.
Thank you for all your helpful comments, especially about the statues as I wasn't sure about them. Our visit was too short, I can see that, and we didn't go into any museums..sounds like a return is in order.
Apr 14th, 2006, 08:06 AM
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To Travelnut :
Well, I must have been working at high school or surfing on another "sympathique" forum !!!
Next time you come back, e-mail me in case I'm free (if you feel like it, of course !) and we'll have a drink together "dans ma bonne ville de Rouen" Marie
Well, I must have been working at high school or surfing on another "sympathique" forum
!!!Next time you come back, e-mail me in case I'm free (if you feel like it, of course
!) and we'll have a drink together "dans ma bonne ville de Rouen" Marie
Apr 14th, 2006, 10:33 AM
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Heu, I've realized I typed too quickly my messages and made some stupid typos ! So sorry ! I think one can't edit one's posts on this forum so you'll have to be indulgent towards the Frenchie
I've also seen one of my messages printed twice, lol ! Oh, là, là, quelle galère !!! Marie (Rouen, Normandy)
I've also seen one of my messages printed twice, lol ! Oh, là, là, quelle galère
!!! Marie (Rouen, Normandy)
Apr 14th, 2006, 10:43 AM
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Marie,
I sure wish you had been working at the tourist office that day. The man I spoke to was very nice and gave me a map, but he only circled Notre Dame and the Musee Jeanne d'Arc. I knew some things were closed, but I assumed he would point out the high points I could enjoy even on a Tuesday.
I found the clock tower but as you pointed out it is being renovated so it made sense he never mentioned that, and I found the donjon myself on my way back to the train station, but he never marked the l'Eglise Saint-Maclou or any of the other sites that according to their website probably were open. So I didn't bother wandering too far before I turned back toward the Vieux Marche.
I'm glad I wandered a little because I really enjoyed my lunch at the Creperie de Ste. Romain. If I had only gone further.
I had read a little about Rouen before going, but didn't take any guidebooks with me to save purse space. Thought a stop at the tourism office would be enough.
It is too bad, too, because as you have pointed out, they have a great website.
I tell you, Fodor's forum is the best source of info we traveler's have! You are a wealth of information. Wish I had talked to you before my trip.
I sure wish you had been working at the tourist office that day. The man I spoke to was very nice and gave me a map, but he only circled Notre Dame and the Musee Jeanne d'Arc. I knew some things were closed, but I assumed he would point out the high points I could enjoy even on a Tuesday.
I found the clock tower but as you pointed out it is being renovated so it made sense he never mentioned that, and I found the donjon myself on my way back to the train station, but he never marked the l'Eglise Saint-Maclou or any of the other sites that according to their website probably were open. So I didn't bother wandering too far before I turned back toward the Vieux Marche.
I'm glad I wandered a little because I really enjoyed my lunch at the Creperie de Ste. Romain. If I had only gone further.
I had read a little about Rouen before going, but didn't take any guidebooks with me to save purse space. Thought a stop at the tourism office would be enough.
It is too bad, too, because as you have pointed out, they have a great website.
I tell you, Fodor's forum is the best source of info we traveler's have! You are a wealth of information. Wish I had talked to you before my trip.
