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Trip Report: Paris and Rouen

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Trip Report: Paris and Rouen

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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 05:32 PM
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Trip Report: Paris and Rouen

After my beautiful trip via TGV from Dijon to Gare de Lyon, I easily found my way to the Ecole Militaire Métro stop. What a great surprise that my hotel was just steps away from the stop. I got checked in, ate the sandwich I had picked up at the Gare de Lyon, grabbed my camera and was off.

This was my fourth trip to Paris, but my first alone. Although my stay was short, my plan was to see a few of the things I had not seen before, but that I had always wanted to see. With that decided, I still had to start my visit with a trip to the Eiffel Tower.

I don’t know how to explain my relationship with this landmark. The first time I went to Paris was my first trip to Europe. Paris would not have been my first choice of cities to visit, but the price was right and so that’s where I went. I thought that Paris was just going to be too cliché. I was anxious to visit the great art museums, but I thought that places like the Eiffel Tower would be just too touristy.

Well, certainly the Eiffel Tower is a huge tourist attraction, but with my first glimpse, I was in awe and in love. This was Paris! It struck a deep harmonic cord somewhere in my ancestry, past lives, or soul! The enduring character of the steel, the strength of the material, the majesty of its size, and the gracefulness of its design, said one word -- Paris. It stands there like a soldier at attention, yet has the fluidity of the Seine. I have since begun every visit at the Eiffel Tower.

Visiting my favorite spot was also convenient because I had never taken a sightseeing cruise on the Seine. I boarded at the Eiffel Tower and although it was chilly, I thoroughly enjoyed the different perspective this cruise allows. I have always loved the Pont Alexandre III, but found that from beneath, the decorations of most of the bridges are noteworthy. If you want to see some of these and my other photos from this trip (Rouen, Dijon, Avignon), you can visit my photos at:

http://community.webshots.com/user/cchottel
I take many photos, but I figure my friends don’t want to see too many, so I cull them down. There are more in these 4 albums than I usually post. I take the rest just for myself and make CD slideshows with music.

When the trip was done, I walked leisurely back to my hotel through the 7ème and went back to the hotel to relax before setting out for dinner.

Well, I’m an American and after a week of wonderful French cooking, I was ready for a bite of good old American food. On my last trip, my daughter, who is not an adventurous eater, found a restaurant called Indiana in Montparnasse. I must admit, they make a good burger. So I hopped the Métro and struck out for Montparnasse. My burger, fries, and margarita hit the spot and Montparnasse is always a lively area to walk around after a big meal. Before long, I decided to go back to my hotel because I needed to get up fairly early to catch a train for my next day’s trip to Rouen.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 05:43 PM
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Rouen – or “occasionally everyone has a bad day.”

It was Tuesday morning the 4th and I’m on my way to Rouen for the day. The trip was uneventful and quick.

I got off the train and headed into the center of town. Now I knew that Tuesday in Rouen would mean that some sights were closed, but heck, the books said there would to be plenty to see to keep me busy.

I walked into town past a beautiful park. I wish, I had been able to stay awhile, but it was really rather chilly to spend a any real time on a park bench. I followed the map I headed toward the tourist office through a vehicle free area with all modern shopping. I finally got to the tourism office across from Notre Dame and got one of their maps.

Rouen’s Notre Dame was under some renovation. It really did need a good cleaning, but you could tell the bones under the grime were beautiful. I went into the church and it was impressive. I wandered around as long as I could before I left to further explore Rouen.

I walked through the smaller streets, still with modern shops and dotted with ceramics shops. Was getting close to noon, so I took my time, took some pictures, and went back to a creperie I had seen as I was wondering around that had looked good. I was right. It was called Creperie Saint Romain. Very good regional-style creperie. The galettes made with buckwheat were excellent. I can’t remember what savory galette I got, but it sure was good. Got a small green salad and a cider. Very good! Got something apple, of course, for dessert.

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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 05:44 PM
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Downhill from here:

After lunch, I wandered back, tried to check out some of the shopping, but I’m just not into that. Decided to head over to what really must be the good section of the historical district -- the area where the Joan of Arc museum and church were located – the old market area. Well, I was absolutely sure my map must be wrong. Where the church was to be, there was only an combination ultra-modern monstrosity that housed a market. No church that I could see and definitely nothing that looked like a museum.

Suddenly it all came to me. The church was part of this monstrosity. A sign to be loosely paraphrased showed “Joan was burned here,” and the museum was in the back of a souvenir shop on the square.

I had no interest in looking at the church, the market looked dirty and smelled, and I was able to read the sign in a second. I entered the souvenir shop and paid my 4€ for the museum. I wound down into a leaky basement and viewed some of the memorabilia. I will say there was a lot items and it was interesting, but dim. I worked my way upstairs where the mannequinned vignettes began telling the story of St. Joan. There were buttons to push at each scene that told the story in various languages. Although the settings were amateurish and they hadn’t turned on many of the lights, in fact forgot one entirely, I will say the audio was very informative. For what this museum was, they had done a pretty good job, but certainly was not the place I had envisioned. I had had such high hopes.

I went to an internet café from there because there just didn’t seem to be much else, and frankly, I was too disheartened to search too hard. Sent a few emails and then I figured I would head to the train station in hopes of getting an earlier train. But before the walk to the station, I decided to look for a restroom. As in the rest of the world, you can usually count on a clean restroom in McDonalds and a soft drink sounded good before my walk to the train station.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 05:46 PM
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Down, Down:

If I can say nothing else about Rouen, and I’m sure it would have been better on another day when I could have at least gone to the Musee des Beaux Arts, they have the nicest McDonalds I have ever seen – and clean restrooms. I got my drink, sat down at a table with a book. Suddenly, with much commotion, several women came running into the restaurant and locked the door. They stood there looking anxiously out the windows. A couple of young men came to the door to come in, but the women wouldn’t let them in. They decided it was Femmes only!

As it turned out, the Tuesday demonstrators had been walking down the adjacent street and apparently were getting a little rowdy. As soon as they passed and the women unlocked the doors, I went the opposite direction and headed to the train station. Noticed the subway was closed, the police riot squads were rushing through town in vans with sirens blaring, and a couple helicopters circled above. I decided it was probably a good idea that I was heading to the train station, because goodness knew, I sure didn’t want to get locked in anymore buildings in Rouen! I hadn’t liked it that well when I could roam around freely!

When I got to the train station, it looked like the demonstrators had been around. Lots of leaflets littered the street, a few broken windows, and lots of police. I will add that this was the closest I had gotten to any sort of disruptive demonstrations and I never even saw it. I showed the police at the door my train ticket and went inside…

I saw by the departure board that a train was leaving at that exact minute. There was no way I would make it and I didn’t feel like rushing. I would have to wait for my scheduled train. Then I realized that my scheduled train was no longer scheduled. I went to the ticket agent and they said that the strike had caused its cancellation. When I asked if I needed another ticket, they said, “No” and to use the one I had on any train I wanted. Since I wanted to go to Paris and next train to Paris was two hours after my scheduled one, it meant a total wait of about 3 hours! Oh, no. More hours bored in Rouen!
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 05:46 PM
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And down a little more:

Since I always have a book with me, I decided to try out the French theory of having rented the table for the price of a cup of coffee. I read my book, talked to some travelers from Senegal, and, all-in-all, made it through without going entirely crazy.

When the train came, the conductor showed me to a first-class compartment like I would have had on my original train. There was no one else around. I vaguely remember reading that this is probably not a good idea alone at night, but what the heck, the peace and quiet sounded good to me. Obviously, too good to be true.

After we had been traveling about ½ hour, a man came into the compartment, very, very drunk and sat down right next to me and started to speak in French. Five other seats, but he had to sit next to me! I told him I didn’t speak French. Didn’t know what he was saying, but he kept on talking and talking and leaning over to me no matter how much I tried to ignore him. It finally got me feeling a uncomfortable and I had had just enough of a bad day that I didn’t want to put up with it anymore. So I got up, walked down a couple of compartments, walked into the one that the conductors were sitting in, and told them, I was sitting there with them. The asked me what was wrong and I said that I just didn’t like being in the compartment alone with a drunk man who refused to leave me alone. They were very nice and worried that the man had accosted me. I told them, no he hadn’t, but had made me very uncomfortable and nervous and I would prefer to stay where I was. They said it was fine to stay right there. I’m not sure they even believed me, because when they went to look, the man had gone. But they were nice about it. I finished the ride, reading my book.

I was a little concerned when I got off the train, but never saw the man again. I took Métros from St. Lazare to Ecole Militaire. It was too late really to find somewhere to eat and I was just too tired. So I went to a little store, got an absolutely awful chicken sandwich and a bottle of juice, went back to my hotel and realized, that even in France, not everything will always be perfect.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 05:47 PM
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A new day and a great surprise:

It was very cold the next day. I went thru the rue Cler, but that took all of 15 minutes. It is a market area, but very quick if you aren’t shopping. I headed over Les Invalides to take pictures, but it was so cold, I decided to finally go in and visit Napoleon’s tomb. I had never done it before because frankly I thought it would be boring. Wow! Was I wrong! To think I had missed this before by choice. How beautiful! Not the over-the-top decoration of Versailles, but real beauty. I took many pictures and took the audio tour.

I had lunch at the cafeteria where I enjoyed a sandwich and watching as the staff took turns chasing out the pigeons that flew in the door. It was comical and a great relief after the day before.

I bought myself a little tiny crank music box in the gift shop of La Vie en Rose. My favorite French song. I found myself humming it the rest of the day.

When I left I went to the Musée Rodin. The sun had come out and it was wonderful walking through the garden. I love sculpture and it was terrific to finally see this museum of one of my favorites.

I also had to go to Ile Cité and Ile St. Louis, although I got too tired to see much of the latter.

I went back to the 7ème and started looking for somewhere for dinner. I found Ristorante Tina around the corner from my hotel. Very reasonable. Excellent Italian food and gave me an opportunity to speak my limited Italian rather than my limited French. I definitely recommend this restaurant if you want a change from French cuisine.

I went back to my hotel knowing that the next day I would have to get up, pack, and head to the airport to come home.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 05:48 PM
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My CDG excursion:

I decided to take the Roissy bus since the Number 8 line from Ecole Militaire goes directly to Opéra.

This went really well and I was at the bus stop quickly. I stood in a huge line waiting to get on the bus. Just before it was my turn to step up on the step, the driver started motioning people to come in and walk right by him. He didn’t collect any more money. I got my seat and thought he was in a hurry because another bus had come up behind him. When we stopped to change drivers, I realized, he was just so anxious to go home or on break, he felt generous. Anyway, many of us had a free trip.

When I got to the airport, I found my ticket counter and went through all that. When I finally got up to check my bag and get my boarding pass, the woman at the counter said, you must go to Gate E87. It is a long way and I suggest you go now. Boy, am I glad I listened to her! Not only was it a long, long walk, we then had a drive on of about 20 minutes to the real Gate E87. I walked around a little and they soon started calling row numbers for boarding. We lined up for the final check and we were once again loaded on buses to drive the 20 minutes (or maybe it was to Chamonix) right by the way we had originally come to the plane on the tarmac.

Well, that’s it. It was a great trip. I saw so much I had never seen and done so much I had never done. Provence, Dijon, Coco and her wonderful family. Even Rouen. I am sure that no matter how many times I visit France, there will always be something new and wonderful.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 05:55 PM
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Oops, my link is wrong for the photos. It is:

http://community.webshots.com/user/cchottel1
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 06:18 PM
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Lovely... all of the solo Paris travelers such as yourself make me think it is just the adventure for me.

I didn't like Rouen a bit either. I stayed in a hotel directly in front of the little area where Joan was burned at the stake and had a heck of a time trying to figure out how to get my rental car into that square as it was all blocked off. Drove around and around and around. The only town in France I visited that I really have no desire to go back.

Thanks so much for your report.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 06:23 PM
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Amwosu, I'm glad to know it wasn't just me. As for solo travel, it is the way I like to go best. So glad that I finally got to France without anyone else, although I make allowances for my daughter. She's okay.

P.S. If you are in Columbus, we live in the same town.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 06:41 PM
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I lived in "old Columbus-towne" for four years. I was a cheerleader at OSU and get back every year for the first game of the season.

How much French do you speak? I took two years of French in h.s. 25 yrs ago so I can cobble together a few words and read menus... Not that it would stop me from a solo trip. Last time I was with my son who spoke even less French than me.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 06:48 PM
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I liked Rouen alot. I don't know if I'd like it if I had been alone but Paris is wonderful for a woman by herself. I was there in March. and wished I could have stayed longer.
Welcome back, cchottel
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 06:48 PM
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I don't really. I have picked up a phrase here and there. I can do greetings, restaurants, that's about it.

I really do love to travel alone. The language barrier doesn't bother me at all. I try and I laugh.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 06:52 PM
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Mimi, as I said, it might just be because of it being Tuesday and the way things went that day.

I don't like to shop and the sights that were open weren't enough to hold my interest.

Good to be back, but I've already been trying to decide, where next? I want to take two more trips yet this year. Maybe one European in the fall, or Vancouver, BC.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 07:04 PM
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It is too bad that you didn't enjoy more of Rouen. The day we went, there was a delay on the track and our train was 'held up' for almost two hours. So we didn't see as much as I had hoped, but we appreciated what we saw. We took the tourist train around for fun and to get some bearings, viewed the interior of the cathedral, went inside the courtyard of 'Aitre Saint Maclou', a medieval plague cemetery, and saw the donjon where Joan d'Arc was held. The timbered buildings were colorful and made for nice photos.
If anyone would like to see, the photos are in the middle of my 'Paris 2005' album, frames 42-56,I believe. (just scroll to the blue boxes and skip over enough...)
http://tinyurl.com/pqewr
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 07:19 PM
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travelnut. Great pics of Rouen. It would have been different if it hadn't been Tuesday. If it hadn't been cold and very dark gray. The half-timbered buildings didn't look colorful, just dreary. The museums weren't open and Gros Horloge was covered for renovation and Notre Dame with scaffolds, so I couldn't even enjoy looking at them from the outside. It was just the day. Another day, it might have been grand. But I doubt that I'll go back.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 07:45 PM
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Yes, travel nut, The man who walked through walls was a story by Marcel Ayme but the sculptor was the fampous French Actor Jean Marais. great photos!!!
I can understand cchottel. I remember being in Paris one year with my girlfriend, she hated it but everything seemed to be covered in canvas and scaffolding. So I understood her disappointment. We ended up back in London after only two days. Have you tried Provence?
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 08:07 PM
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Yes, if you follow my posts (click on my user name) you will see that I started my trip in Avignon, took a couple day trips. That was the first report. Then I went to Dijon. That was the second. This is the end of my trip report. I was happy and very happy everywhere, just not Rouen.

Nimes had everything scaffolded and covered, too, but it helped that it was a beautiful warm day. And I didn't have train problems.

My point is that on the best of trips, a day that is less than perfect might happen.

I loved the park in Rouen. I loved the interior of Notre Dame. I even liked the Joan of Arc museum for what it was. But there were things I didn't like. Didn't ruin my trip, just was a day.
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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 08:29 PM
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cchottel, you take fantastic photos. I enjoyed them very much. I was surprised at how beautiful Napoleon's tomb was-and moving too. The Musee Rodin is one of my favorites and it's amazing to see all of those famous sculptures in person.

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Old Apr 12th, 2006, 09:14 PM
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Lovely photos & report! Please tell me where you stayed in the 7th?
I was at Hotel Duquesne which was lovely.
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