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Trip Report. Mother/Daughter in Italy

Trip Report. Mother/Daughter in Italy

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Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 07:02 AM
  #1  
April
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Trip Report. Mother/Daughter in Italy

I lost all this once, guess it was too long, I'll try again and do it in installments.<BR><BR>Italy is the most wonderful place I have been!!<BR><BR>My 10 year old daughter and I went for 10 over Thanksgiving break and thanks to everyone who helped so much!!<BR><BR>Naples 2 nights Hotel Rex<BR>Sorrento 3 nights Hotel Mignon<BR>Rome 3 nights Hotel Navona<BR>Each of our hotels were very reasonably priced, each was in a fantastic location and all were clean and friendly. I would stay at any/all of them again.<BR><BR>We flew into Naples. Everyone said to avoid Naples, stay away from Naples, get out of Naples as soon as possible. We absolutely loved Naples. We were careful, dressed in dark colored casual clothes, did not wear fanny packs etc. The give away though that we had to be tourists was the short sleeves. It was in the low 70's and everyone had on winter coats but we were in short sleeve shirts and very comfortable. We had no trouble of any kind in Naples and walked all over. We even spent alot of time exploring the Spanish Quarter. People there must not see many American tourists and they were so wonderful, they seemed happy we had ventured in and were so helpful and great. Naples was a highlight of our trip. The pizza there is the best we had. I could sit and look over the bay of Naples and Vesuvius every day of my life and not tire of the view.<BR><BR>We took the hydrofoil to Sorrento and Sorrento is a beautiful town. Seas were a little rough on the ride, but we loved that too. Daytrips from Sorrento included Pompei, Herculaneum and Caserta. Nights in Sorrento were filled with walking, shopping and mostly people watching. I did feel Sorrento was not as kid-friendly as Naples or Rome. I don't think they have alot of children tourists.<BR><BR>Pompei was fantastic! We did hire a private guide at the entrance for 95 euros and it was worth it. The tour was 2 hours and then we stayed another 3 hours. It was so uncrowded that hardly any of my pictures even have 1 person in them. We wandered on back into the great amipitheater area and there was no one there but my daughter and I. Her love is ballet and she danced in the ampitheater with me as her sole audience. The wind was blowing just enough to hear the faint sound of the trees. It was a magical moment in time I will never forget.<BR><BR>More in next installment.<BR>April
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 07:31 AM
  #2  
April
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Cont.<BR><BR>Herculaneum was really different than Pompei. The fact is was destroyed by mud flow and not pyroclastic flow preserved it more and differently. I did enjoy Pompei more but I think it was because we learned more in Pompei with the private guide. I wish I would have done Pompei first, alot of what I learned in Pompei would have helped us understand what we saw in Herculaneum.<BR>The thing that was truely better in Herculaneum than in Pompei were the number of ceilings that were original and in tact, the frescoes were better preserved there too. The entire time we in in Herculaneum we saw a total of 5 other people. We spent 3 hours there and truely saw and explored every nook and cranny.<BR><BR>We had planned on climing to the crater of Vesuvius and went the TI in Ercolano in the morning we were going. The man there told us a bus would leave from the train station at 9:30, by the time we walked the 1 and 1/2 blocks back to the train station there were 3 men there that knew where we wanted to go. That made me a little uncomfortable. They were offering private vehicle tours up for 30 euros, wait on us to make the climb and bring us back down. I didn't trust the whole thing and of course would not go. A couple of taxi drivers overheard this and then they started wanting to take us. We opted to wait for the bus but the bus never came. Being alone with my daughter I didn't want to risk anything so we just hopped back on the train and went to Naples, changed trains and went to Caserta. <BR><BR>In Caserta we found no one who spoke english except in the palace itself. I sure was glad we and spent alot of time with Italian language CD's. Between my limited amount of Italian words and my 10 year old's charade ability we had no problem. People were extremely friendly. <BR><BR>At some of the train stops you could not see a sign as to where you were and I was afraid we would miss our stop and end up &quot;who knows where&quot;. I kept asking if every stop was Caserta, finally a boy about 16 or 17 said &quot;no worry, I go there, stay with me&quot; When we got to Caserta the signs were easily visable but I really appreciated his kindness. The palace is basically across the street from the train station so you don't have to worry about transportation once you get there.<BR><BR>The palace is beautiful! The gardens are unreal! The fountains were not running (yearly maintainence). This was a little disappointing but being there in off season and having the gardens almost to ourselves was worth not seeing the fountains running. We took a taxi to the end of the gardens and walked back. <BR><BR>We never ate lunch one day in Naples or in Sorrento. We were always somewhere they didn't have food. We just bought alot of water and a few snacks. It really just made dinner even better.<BR><BR>I will continue in a little while<BR>April
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 07:52 AM
  #3  
Grasshopper
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April, I am totally impressed. For a first trip to Italy you did an amazing job of planning and executing. Bravo for tackling Napoli first off! I think it's Italy at it's most Italian. Your daughter is incredibly fortunate to have a Mom who is creating wonderful adventures for her. Imagine what seeds you are planting. I loved the image of you watching her dance in Pompeii.<BR><BR>I'm looking forward to the next installments.
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 08:55 AM
  #4  
Dona
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April -<BR><BR>Thanks so much for your detailed account. I often read people's journals and they're very informative. But I found that the way you told of your adventures makes we want to read more!!<BR><BR>Awaiting the next installment -<BR><BR>Dona
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 09:52 AM
  #5  
April
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Wow I am excited that you both are enjoying my report. <BR><BR>Dona, your trip reports are the top of the tops. I read your reports in envy.<BR><BR>We took the train to Naples and then to Rome. The scenery was beautiful in the way and I would love to someday explore the little places most tourists never see. I was not brave enough this time to rent a car but maybe next time.<BR><BR>We took a taxi to our hotel in Rome. Of course when your exit the train station you are bombarded by private drivers wanting to take you. The first one wanted 50 euros and as my daughter wrote in her daily journal &quot; He didn't know my mom wasn't stupid&quot;. We went to the front of the taxi line and got a metered taxi. It cost 18 euros to our hotel including our 2 suitcases. Actually it took us to within about 1/2 block of our hotel because there was some sort of protest going on and you could not drive thru the last intersection. We checked in, dropped our stuff and headed out immediately. It was a little overwhelming at first but within 30 minutes we had walked down Piazza Navona, walked past the Pantheon, seen the Tevi Fountain and sat on the Spanish Steps. We sort of felt like Wow, what a first 30 minute intro to Rome!!<BR><BR>We had an orientation stroll with a Scala Reale guide on the first afternoon. It was wonderful, we saw the tomb of Augustus, the ancient gate to the city of Rome in Piazza Popolo, the building the Arch of Peach was under and was taken out by Mussolini and reassembled. Our was so informative and explained the layout of the city. This orientation was a wonderful way to start our time in Rome.<BR><BR>Later that night we went back and marveled at the age and beauty of the Pantheon, spent more time at the Trevi and just wandered endless back streets.<BR><BR>The next morning we had a private tour of ancient Rome with another guide from Scala Reale. This private tour was probably my biggest splurge of the trip and absolutely worth every single penny. Our guide was Darius and could never tell you how great he was. I felt I was getting an advanced course in Roman History and archeology and yet her brought everything to the level my 10 year old could understand. In 4 hours I felt like I really understood life of ancient Romans. The Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill and The Mamertine Prison came totally alive from the past for us. If anyone is interested in a tour of Rome, I reccomend Scala Reale without any hesitation!!!<BR><BR>I will continue in a little while<BR>April
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 10:59 AM
  #6  
April
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Continuing...<BR>The last day we were there we went to the Vatican. It was amazing, what else can you say. The climb to the top of the Cupola was worth every step when you saw the view. The museums were great. Our favorite was the Egyptian rooms, the Etruscan rooms and of course the Sistine Chapel. The only rain we had was while we were in the Vatican Museums.<BR><BR>We walked everywhere, I was afraid I would miss something. Every corner had a new treasure to see or a new person to smile at or with. We only took a bus a couple of times. We climbed the steps of the Victor Emmanual Monument, put our hands in the Bocca della Verita (mouth of truth), bought flowers for each other in Campo di Fiori and stared at the statue of Bruno. We splashed each other in fountains, threw 2 coins in the Trevi every day, and danced with a man playing the sax on the side of the street. The peolple we met on this trip will always remain with me.<BR><BR>We had dinner every night on Piazza Naovna at a different cafe. The food was great at each one and the atmosphere of the outdoor life on Piazza Navona was so great we couldn't bring ourselves to go anywhere else.<BR>The last night they were starting to set up the Christmas Market. I was so impressed by the way they do not commercialize Christmas. We only saw one Christmas Tree while we were there and that was in the train station in Rome.<BR><BR>The last night my daughter shopped for 4 hours on Via del Corsco and up some side streets. She is tiny and was so impressed she could actually find clothes in adult stores that sort-of fit her. She bought pants in XS sizes that I only had to take up about an inch in the waist and hem 14 inches!!! Luckily I sew!!<BR><BR>We truely loved every minute of Italy. We both cried when our plane took off to come home.<BR><BR>Thanks so much to everyone who helped me plan this wonderful trip. Even my husband who thought he wouldn't like the trip, now says he wishes he had gone. <BR><BR>I hope I can help someone in the future to plan their trip. I will be glad to answer any questions about the places we went and the things we saw.<BR><BR>Counting the days till I can return,<BR>Thank you again to all the wonderful people on this forum.<BR><BR>April
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 11:02 AM
  #7  
April
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One thing I forgot to tell you about that both my daughter and I enjoyed tremendously was St. Johns in Laterno. It was really beautiful. We also climbed the Holy Stairs across the street on out knees in prayer. That is an experience you could only understand in your heart after you do it. <BR><BR>April
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 11:03 AM
  #8  
Grasshopper
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April, this was wonderful. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences with us.
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 11:16 AM
  #9  
june
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Thanks so much for your interesting and informative journal, April. My husband and I are beginning to plan a trip to Italy and your notes and hotels are a big help. Thanks, June
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 03:26 PM
  #10  
Chantae
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This trip report was great. I am so happy you and your daughter had such a wonderful time!<BR><BR>Italy is a magical country. Your report was so informative and it is so obvious you planned well. You were able to see and do so much in such a short time. Many people travel to Italy two to three times before feeling comfortable enough to do many of the things you did. I know alot of people who have been to Ialy numerous times and still would not walk in the Spanish Quarter at night. I applaud you enthusiasm for my favorite city in Europe.<BR><BR>Chantae
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 03:38 PM
  #11  
April
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I just actually re-read my report. Sorry for the typos and mis-spells. I guess I just got so excited reliving it I went too fast. Of course the Arch of Peace is not the Arch of Peach. Please ignore all the other mistakes too.<BR><BR>April<BR><BR>
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 04:44 PM
  #12  
Rex
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Very nice, April.<BR><BR>This trip has had quite a &quot;gestation&quot;, and I remember this post, when your daughter was only eight!<BR><BR>Please help mom and daughter!<BR> <BR>Author: A.Franklin ([email protected])<BR>Date: 02/10/2001, 10:45 am <BR><BR>Message: I will travel to Italy in off season with 8 year old daughter. Would like to use trains. I do not speak Italian. Rome/Naple/Pompeii/Sorrento, any advice on train travel and ticket buying and where to stay would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!<BR>
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 08:52 PM
  #13  
Lou
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Thanks for the descriptions of Caserta. I've been wondering about that place!<BR>
 
Old Dec 8th, 2002 | 10:27 PM
  #14  
toni
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<BR>April,<BR>A truly lovely trip report and what an experience to share with your daughter. I am going next year and want to bring some things home for my eleven year old, any recommendations for good shops in Rome would be appreciated. Also, we plan on staying at Hotel Navona, are there any rooms to avoid, as there have been mixed reviews about it. Thanks so much.
 
Old Dec 9th, 2002 | 05:43 AM
  #15  
Nikki
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April, can you tell us how much the private tour of ancient Rome cost with Scala Reale? Thanks.
 
Old Dec 9th, 2002 | 06:26 AM
  #16  
April
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Toni, We stayed in room #3, it was on the outside so there was some street noise but it did not bother us (not a busy street). I did not hear anyone there complain about their room so I really cannot tell you any rooms to avoid. I do know there are a couple of rooms higher up with the wooden beam ceiling and supposedly Shelly/Keats stayed in them. I know they cost more, but I suppose are a little nicer. It shows one of those rooms on their website. <BR><BR>Nikki, The private tour with Scala Reale was $250. There was also a $20 membership fee to Scala Reale (my daughter did not have to pay that, just myself). The Orientation Stroll was included at no extra charge because we had the private tour. <BR><BR>Hope this helps,<BR><BR>April
 
Old Dec 9th, 2002 | 07:13 AM
  #17  
April
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Toni, I had to check on the 2 stores she really liked the clothes from, I can only find the paper on one of them at the moment, it was her favorite and was called Funny Girl (right on Via del Corsco in Rome) it was closer the Piazza Popolo end of the street than the Piazza Venizia end. They had lots in size XS so she was thrilled. She is 10 but still can wear a 6x-7 in the waist (length is another matter). Most of the little souvenier/trinket things she bought and liked came from shops around The Trevi and between the Trevi and the Pantheon. She of course liked all the fake pocketbooks (Fendi, Gucci, Prada and LV). She doesn't acutually realize they are fake and I will not bust her bubble so to say. <BR><BR>Rex, you have a great memory, we started planning this trip when she was 8 and would have turned 9 by the time of the trip. After 9/11 I felt a little unsure traveling to Europe by ourselves so we postponed it a whole year. We really wanted to go in off-season and by going during Thanksgiving break, we were able to be gone 10 days but she only missed 3 and 1/2 days of school. You were one of the 1st people who replied to my original posts and all the advice you gave was great, especially about taking the time to learn some Italian. Thank you!
 
Old Dec 9th, 2002 | 07:57 AM
  #18  
Julia
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April, having just returned from a trip to Rome with a day trip to Pompeii, the image of you watching your daughter dance in the theater at Pompeii is just magical to me. What a lovely trip you had. I have really enjoyed your trip report.
 
Old Dec 9th, 2002 | 08:02 AM
  #19  
Rex
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If I contributed in some way, it was my privilege - - and I thank YOU for the kind remarks...<BR>
 
Old Dec 9th, 2002 | 08:07 AM
  #20  
Michelle
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Dear April:<BR><BR>I am curious- since this was your first trip to Italy, why did you choose the Naples, Sorrento, Rome route instead of the typical Venice, Florence, Rome itinerary??<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR>Michelle
 


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