Trip Report - Lauterbrunnen, Salzburg, Paris
Aug 21st, 2006, 05:05 AM
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Scorpions and beatles and gargoyles...oh my 
Yep, I have 2 boys also. 
Still enjoying this great report....thanks. We loved Switzerland in June and Paris looks highly likely for next summer so I am taking notes!
Yep, I have 2 boys also. Still enjoying this great report....thanks. We loved Switzerland in June and Paris looks highly likely for next summer so I am taking notes!
Aug 21st, 2006, 05:43 PM
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August 11 – Notre Dame, Berthillion, Grande Roue, Vesuvius pizza, first stab at the Tour Eiffel
Got to Notre Dame before the crowds. How beautiful to go in with very few people! There was a balsa wood model of it all with complete detail (right down to the statue of St. Denis holding his head and the gargoyles). If you see it, look inside the tiny front doors to see the alter.) We got on line for the towers – Museum Pass is accepted, but you may not bypass the line, so don’t go late or you will be stuck in a long slow line. 422 steps up the spiral staircase to see the beautifully carved gargoyles and the bell tower. Great view!
Next to the crypt. I expected tombs, but found instead the remains of the earliest Paris with roads, some stairs and building foundations. Interesting. Skipped Sainte Chappelle when we saw we couldn’t bypass the line, so walked to Isle Saint Louis to visit Berthillion. We came to a small store front which said Maison Berthillon, basically just a counter. We bought our ice cream – great selection and delicious– but the vanilla was the most intense vanilla flavor I have ever tasted. Wonderful. Around the corner though, we found what appeared to be a cafe named Glacier Berthillion. A taxi driver later told me they are one and the same “house” (true?) and the café closes July and Aug – how can an ice cream store close all summer??? Interesting that they sell ice cream to many restaurants throughout Paris though. In any case, delicious!
We walked along the Seine through Paris Plage, stopping to watch a few games of boules/pétanque – destination Angelina’s for their renowned hot chocolate. It was not to be –it had closed for the day.
We went on the Grande Roue instead, right across the street. Great view of the Louvre and Pyramide.
Hungry again, it was off to L’Epi Dupin, another Fodors recommendation, but alas it was closed for vacation. This turned out to be a good thing though as we went to Vesuvius by the St. Germaine and Mabillion metro stops for the best pizza we have ever had! That was a great recommendation – merci!
OK – time for the Eiffel Tower since there were only 3 nights left. Last admissions are at midnight so we were in plenty of time. My kids couldn’t believe how big it was! On line already for ½ hour, we heard a huge crescendo ohhhhhhhhhh from everyone under and around the tower and we looked up to see the 11 pm sparkling begin. It gave me chills! We watched the men trying to sell tiny Eiffel Towers and cool wind up birds. When one of the demos landed at our feet, I asked the price. I was told 20€ and when I said no way, he offered me 2 for 15€. Non merci! Another man offered one at 8€ so if anyone wants one, I would try to bargain starting at 5 or 6 and see what happens. All of a sudden at 11:30 the line started moving amazingly fast and we were thrilled… until we noticed that the top level had been closed. :'( Too late and too crowded up there I suppose, so we joined the masses who were leaving, vowing to come back earlier the next night.
Got to Notre Dame before the crowds. How beautiful to go in with very few people! There was a balsa wood model of it all with complete detail (right down to the statue of St. Denis holding his head and the gargoyles). If you see it, look inside the tiny front doors to see the alter.) We got on line for the towers – Museum Pass is accepted, but you may not bypass the line, so don’t go late or you will be stuck in a long slow line. 422 steps up the spiral staircase to see the beautifully carved gargoyles and the bell tower. Great view!
Next to the crypt. I expected tombs, but found instead the remains of the earliest Paris with roads, some stairs and building foundations. Interesting. Skipped Sainte Chappelle when we saw we couldn’t bypass the line, so walked to Isle Saint Louis to visit Berthillion. We came to a small store front which said Maison Berthillon, basically just a counter. We bought our ice cream – great selection and delicious– but the vanilla was the most intense vanilla flavor I have ever tasted. Wonderful. Around the corner though, we found what appeared to be a cafe named Glacier Berthillion. A taxi driver later told me they are one and the same “house” (true?) and the café closes July and Aug – how can an ice cream store close all summer??? Interesting that they sell ice cream to many restaurants throughout Paris though. In any case, delicious!
We walked along the Seine through Paris Plage, stopping to watch a few games of boules/pétanque – destination Angelina’s for their renowned hot chocolate. It was not to be –it had closed for the day.
We went on the Grande Roue instead, right across the street. Great view of the Louvre and Pyramide.Hungry again, it was off to L’Epi Dupin, another Fodors recommendation, but alas it was closed for vacation. This turned out to be a good thing though as we went to Vesuvius by the St. Germaine and Mabillion metro stops for the best pizza we have ever had! That was a great recommendation – merci!
OK – time for the Eiffel Tower since there were only 3 nights left. Last admissions are at midnight so we were in plenty of time. My kids couldn’t believe how big it was! On line already for ½ hour, we heard a huge crescendo ohhhhhhhhhh from everyone under and around the tower and we looked up to see the 11 pm sparkling begin. It gave me chills! We watched the men trying to sell tiny Eiffel Towers and cool wind up birds. When one of the demos landed at our feet, I asked the price. I was told 20€ and when I said no way, he offered me 2 for 15€. Non merci! Another man offered one at 8€ so if anyone wants one, I would try to bargain starting at 5 or 6 and see what happens. All of a sudden at 11:30 the line started moving amazingly fast and we were thrilled… until we noticed that the top level had been closed. :'( Too late and too crowded up there I suppose, so we joined the masses who were leaving, vowing to come back earlier the next night.
Aug 22nd, 2006, 03:58 AM
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August 12 - Hotel Duquesne Eiffel, Angelina’s, Louvre, Le Bosquet, Tour Eiffel (“awesome and terrible at the same time”)
Time to switch hotels… to Duquesne Eiffel, 26 Rue Duquesne, 7th, summer rate of 169€ (normally 199). Goal - I wanted a room to see the Eiffel Tower from my bed! We waited for the room to be ready since it was pouring and cold out. Once in our “Tour Eiffel” room, 2nd floor, we studied the beautiful “direct” view…all I had hoped for (after pushing the bed over 3 feet), especially at night!
The hotel: Beautiful!!! Red and yellow decor with headboards, curtains, bedspreads, border in complimenting prints, cherry furniture, mini-bar and TV. Good size room – plenty of room to walk around and the bathroom like-new - shower with a glass door, tiled floor and walls and a granite counter around the sink, A/C and an elevator. Breakfast not included, but cost 11 euros. Beautiful lobby with wood beams on the ceiling, a stone wall behind the bar, the same pretty decor. Metro and brasseries 2 blocks away; 5-6 blocks from the Invalides, Napoleons Tomb, and the Rodin Museum.
The day:
Angelina’s, 226 Rue de Rivoli – best, best hot chocolate, rich and creamy served with a bowl of whipped cream, in a gorgeous room.
Louvre – saw the Mona Lisa and then each child chose one thing which appealed to them so we were there about 1 1/2 hours – certainly enough with children.
A bit of shopping. back to the hotel to rest, then dinner at Le Bosquet, another Fodor’s gem.
The dinner: Le Bosquet was on the corner of Ave Bosquet and tiny Ave Champs de Mars, 1 block towards the Seine from Place Ecole Militaire (in case your map doesn’t label that cross street, which ours didn’t). First, escargot which the kids agreed to try. I expected
amp;, but got 
. 12S asked why anyone would pay so much money when all it tasted of was garlic! (Talk about having a different take on things) I had a very nice dinner of veal steak, asparagus, and salad and Tarte Tatin with whipped cream and Berthillion vanilla ice cream. The kids had the 10€ menu: burgers (no roll), the best fries I’ve even tasted, coke and Berthillion ice cream. Another bargain for them!
Tour Eiffel – It stopped raining after pouring all day and we walked the few blocks to the Champ de Mars for pictures, made even better when the sparkling began. We got on line and after ½ hour, tryed to ignore the drizzling which had started. After a while we were immersed in a sea of umbrellas as the rain picked up a bit. By the time we could get tickets, it was pouring again.
What to do? No one was leaving and as rain was forecast again the next day (our last) we purchased tickets and forged ahead. A short line for the elevator to the 2nd floor (it stops at the 1st, but you don’t have to get out), thena terrible loooooong line for the elevator to the third. Not only were we once again in the pouring rain, but it was freezing (this is summer???) and windy. At the top, the view of Paris at night was stunning despite the weather. My son’s comment summed up the evening: “This is awesome and terrible at the same time”. Even bigger lines to go back down to the second floor awaited us, and more to go down from there. (Tip: try the elevator at the south pillar, instead of the more obvious north pillar which everyone uses – an announcement was made just as we were finally boarding the elevator.) Got a taxi back just in time to see the Eiffel Tower sparkle at midnight.
Time to switch hotels… to Duquesne Eiffel, 26 Rue Duquesne, 7th, summer rate of 169€ (normally 199). Goal - I wanted a room to see the Eiffel Tower from my bed! We waited for the room to be ready since it was pouring and cold out. Once in our “Tour Eiffel” room, 2nd floor, we studied the beautiful “direct” view…all I had hoped for (after pushing the bed over 3 feet), especially at night!
The hotel: Beautiful!!! Red and yellow decor with headboards, curtains, bedspreads, border in complimenting prints, cherry furniture, mini-bar and TV. Good size room – plenty of room to walk around and the bathroom like-new - shower with a glass door, tiled floor and walls and a granite counter around the sink, A/C and an elevator. Breakfast not included, but cost 11 euros. Beautiful lobby with wood beams on the ceiling, a stone wall behind the bar, the same pretty decor. Metro and brasseries 2 blocks away; 5-6 blocks from the Invalides, Napoleons Tomb, and the Rodin Museum.
The day:
Angelina’s, 226 Rue de Rivoli – best, best hot chocolate, rich and creamy served with a bowl of whipped cream, in a gorgeous room.
Louvre – saw the Mona Lisa and then each child chose one thing which appealed to them so we were there about 1 1/2 hours – certainly enough with children.
A bit of shopping. back to the hotel to rest, then dinner at Le Bosquet, another Fodor’s gem.
The dinner: Le Bosquet was on the corner of Ave Bosquet and tiny Ave Champs de Mars, 1 block towards the Seine from Place Ecole Militaire (in case your map doesn’t label that cross street, which ours didn’t). First, escargot which the kids agreed to try. I expected
amp;, but got . 12S asked why anyone would pay so much money when all it tasted of was garlic! (Talk about having a different take on things) I had a very nice dinner of veal steak, asparagus, and salad and Tarte Tatin with whipped cream and Berthillion vanilla ice cream. The kids had the 10€ menu: burgers (no roll), the best fries I’ve even tasted, coke and Berthillion ice cream. Another bargain for them!Tour Eiffel – It stopped raining after pouring all day and we walked the few blocks to the Champ de Mars for pictures, made even better when the sparkling began. We got on line and after ½ hour, tryed to ignore the drizzling which had started. After a while we were immersed in a sea of umbrellas as the rain picked up a bit. By the time we could get tickets, it was pouring again.
What to do? No one was leaving and as rain was forecast again the next day (our last) we purchased tickets and forged ahead. A short line for the elevator to the 2nd floor (it stops at the 1st, but you don’t have to get out), thena terrible loooooong line for the elevator to the third. Not only were we once again in the pouring rain, but it was freezing (this is summer???) and windy. At the top, the view of Paris at night was stunning despite the weather. My son’s comment summed up the evening: “This is awesome and terrible at the same time”. Even bigger lines to go back down to the second floor awaited us, and more to go down from there. (Tip: try the elevator at the south pillar, instead of the more obvious north pillar which everyone uses – an announcement was made just as we were finally boarding the elevator.) Got a taxi back just in time to see the Eiffel Tower sparkle at midnight.
Aug 22nd, 2006, 07:41 AM
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Thank you for a very interesting, eloquent trip report kwren!
The Hotel Duquesne was great wasn't it?!
We stayed in rooms 45 & 46 with great views of Lady Eiffel.
Had two very nice dinners at Palace Thai downstairs on the corner.
I admire all you managed to do in 3 weeks!
The Hotel Duquesne was great wasn't it?!
We stayed in rooms 45 & 46 with great views of Lady Eiffel.
Had two very nice dinners at Palace Thai downstairs on the corner.
I admire all you managed to do in 3 weeks!
Aug 22nd, 2006, 08:11 AM
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Hi kwren---great report--I just returned from my own vacation, and didn't see it until today. I especially enjoyed reading about your time in Lauterbrunnen, a place we know well.
One question---how easy to find is that ice cream stand at Kleine Scheidegg, where you had the "best ice cream ever" with the chocolate shavings? Is it near the train station, and is it the only ice cream place there? I know my daughter would love to sample that ice cream when we go next summer.
One question---how easy to find is that ice cream stand at Kleine Scheidegg, where you had the "best ice cream ever" with the chocolate shavings? Is it near the train station, and is it the only ice cream place there? I know my daughter would love to sample that ice cream when we go next summer.
Aug 23rd, 2006, 05:13 AM
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Glad you are enjoying it March...almost done 
tod - Oui, I loved the Duquesne Eiffel!!! Only one problem - I didn't sleep well at all the first night! Turns out I was so excited to have that view that I woke up about half a dozen times thinking 'Eiffel Tower' and quickly turning over to see if it was a dream. Whew - it wasn't! Guess I didn't want to waste a single minute of that view
I did learn that the sparkling does not go on all night and that Lady Eiffel is only dimly lit once it closes. The things you figure out in the middle of the night! In case someone is wondering, the beds and pillows were very comfortable and in no way caused me to lose sleep, which by the way, did not happen the second night once I knew my view was secure (well, except once I admit - I had told my self I wanted to see it sparkle once the day we left and I woke up once just before it started. Merci internal alarm clock!)
And to enzian - that delicious ice cream at Kleine Scheidigg was at a small stand-alone stand near all the tables on the side of the station facing the lower cow pastures. There were also some little eateries on that side if you want to have lunch. One's wall sign said grill-station and served bratwurst and sauerkraut from an enormous pot and rosti from a huge wok-like pan. The man's shirt said Rostizzeria. There was a bakery with appelstrudel and you could buy ice cream novelties. There were the inevitable souvenir shops up there as well.
tod - Oui, I loved the Duquesne Eiffel!!! Only one problem - I didn't sleep well at all the first night! Turns out I was so excited to have that view that I woke up about half a dozen times thinking 'Eiffel Tower' and quickly turning over to see if it was a dream. Whew - it wasn't! Guess I didn't want to waste a single minute of that view
I did learn that the sparkling does not go on all night and that Lady Eiffel is only dimly lit once it closes. The things you figure out in the middle of the night! In case someone is wondering, the beds and pillows were very comfortable and in no way caused me to lose sleep, which by the way, did not happen the second night once I knew my view was secure (well, except once I admit - I had told my self I wanted to see it sparkle once the day we left and I woke up once just before it started. Merci internal alarm clock!)And to enzian - that delicious ice cream at Kleine Scheidigg was at a small stand-alone stand near all the tables on the side of the station facing the lower cow pastures. There were also some little eateries on that side if you want to have lunch. One's wall sign said grill-station and served bratwurst and sauerkraut from an enormous pot and rosti from a huge wok-like pan. The man's shirt said Rostizzeria. There was a bakery with appelstrudel and you could buy ice cream novelties. There were the inevitable souvenir shops up there as well.
Aug 23rd, 2006, 05:36 AM
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kwren, good report! I've just returned from Switzerland and had similar weather problems. But when those clouds clear, wow, what a view!
Hello enzian! - I believe kwren is referring to the Movenpick ice cream booth right there at the KS train station. Can't miss it. Yum!
(Sorry to hijack - but enzian, could you email me at fraukopp at yahoo.com - I'd like to ask you something off the boards - thanks!)
Hello enzian! - I believe kwren is referring to the Movenpick ice cream booth right there at the KS train station. Can't miss it. Yum!
(Sorry to hijack - but enzian, could you email me at fraukopp at yahoo.com - I'd like to ask you something off the boards - thanks!)
Aug 23rd, 2006, 06:50 AM
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Thanks kopp - agree about the view! Did you get to try the Alpenhorn?
enzian - I believe I ordered chocolate, not chocolate chip or anything like that, and that's what had the shaved chocolate pieces in it.
enzian - I believe I ordered chocolate, not chocolate chip or anything like that, and that's what had the shaved chocolate pieces in it.
Aug 23rd, 2006, 10:01 AM
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kwren---thanks for the information on the ice cream stand. Movenpick sounds right---they make great ice cream. We didn't look around for ice cream the last time we were up there---we were in a blizzard! But for next summer, hopefully we will fare better with the weather. I hope to travel from Grindelwald to Mürren by going up and over Kleine Scheidegg, with a stop for a hike out to Mannlichen--and ice cream. I just bought our air tickets and I'm so excited!!!!
kopp---will do; so you can watch for my e-mail, my last name is Smith (really!) and the e-mail host is a well--known university. I'll send it right now.
kopp---will do; so you can watch for my e-mail, my last name is Smith (really!) and the e-mail host is a well--known university. I'll send it right now.
Aug 23rd, 2006, 04:02 PM
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August 13 – Our last day. Aquarium with one child while the other stayed at the hotel, Napoleon’s Tomb and Rodin Museum in the rain, onion soup at a brasserie, packing, “Sundaes on Sunday”, one last view from my window of the Eiffel Tower sparkling at midnight.
Au revoir Paris!
Au revoir Paris!
Aug 27th, 2006, 10:23 AM
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Hi kwren,
Thanks again for all the great info. We have indeed decided on France for next summer with 5 nights in Paris.
One of the hotels we are looking at is the Duquesne Eiffel -the other 3 are in the 6th/St Germain area. I am not familiar with Paris. Is the Duquesne convenient for walking places? I especially want to know if there are a lot of good restaurants in near walking distance for dinner.
Thanks for any input you have on choosing our location for Paris. I will be traveling with my husband and our 13 year old son(16 year old will be away on program of his own).
Thanks again for all the great info. We have indeed decided on France for next summer with 5 nights in Paris.
One of the hotels we are looking at is the Duquesne Eiffel -the other 3 are in the 6th/St Germain area. I am not familiar with Paris. Is the Duquesne convenient for walking places? I especially want to know if there are a lot of good restaurants in near walking distance for dinner.
Thanks for any input you have on choosing our location for Paris. I will be traveling with my husband and our 13 year old son(16 year old will be away on program of his own).
Aug 27th, 2006, 11:06 AM
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Hi Fun
Yea, Paris! (oh sorry, my excitement took over for a minute )
The Duquesne Eiffel is in a quiet area in the 7th - on the corner of Ave Duquesne and Ave de Lowendal, if you have a map. There are some brasseries about a block away, the restaurant called Le Bosquet about 3 blocks away - my kids had the kids menu there - and a Thai place (which we did not try) just downstairs. I'm sure there are a lot of others but we were only at that hotel 2 nights so didn't need to find them. The metro is 1 1/2 blocks away and there are a lot of bus lines on its street or a block away. Rue Cler is close, and a small food store and boulangeries within 2 blocks.
Within walking distance: Eiffel Tower, Napoleon's Tomb, the Rodin Museum, and now that I have pulled out my map to be sure I haven't forgotten anything...Galeries Lafayette - and I didn't even know it! (my husband won't thank you for that one for future trips
)
The thing you have to decide is whether you want to stay in a beautiful hotel in a quiet residential area with good transportation and some restaurants or if you want to be in a more lively touristy area with crowds and souvenir shops, possibly more restaurants and such. (And I know you have to take your son in account too - my kids liked both areas, but that was because what I made sure we did every day.) It is very easy to get around and distances are short so that shouldn't stop you from staying there if you prefer the quieter atmosphere. If you want to be able to walk to a great restaurant every night, maybe the 6th would be better.
What hotels are you considering and what are they near? Is this your first time in Paris? I might have more of an opinion after hearing your answers.
If you have more questions about taking a 13 year old boy, please feel free to ask. I have lots of experience with that age in Paris - maybe 4 trips worth!
Yea, Paris! (oh sorry, my excitement took over for a minute
)The Duquesne Eiffel is in a quiet area in the 7th - on the corner of Ave Duquesne and Ave de Lowendal, if you have a map. There are some brasseries about a block away, the restaurant called Le Bosquet about 3 blocks away - my kids had the kids menu there - and a Thai place (which we did not try) just downstairs. I'm sure there are a lot of others but we were only at that hotel 2 nights so didn't need to find them. The metro is 1 1/2 blocks away and there are a lot of bus lines on its street or a block away. Rue Cler is close, and a small food store and boulangeries within 2 blocks.
Within walking distance: Eiffel Tower, Napoleon's Tomb, the Rodin Museum, and now that I have pulled out my map to be sure I haven't forgotten anything...Galeries Lafayette - and I didn't even know it! (my husband won't thank you for that one for future trips
)The thing you have to decide is whether you want to stay in a beautiful hotel in a quiet residential area with good transportation and some restaurants or if you want to be in a more lively touristy area with crowds and souvenir shops, possibly more restaurants and such. (And I know you have to take your son in account too - my kids liked both areas, but that was because what I made sure we did every day.) It is very easy to get around and distances are short so that shouldn't stop you from staying there if you prefer the quieter atmosphere. If you want to be able to walk to a great restaurant every night, maybe the 6th would be better.
What hotels are you considering and what are they near? Is this your first time in Paris? I might have more of an opinion after hearing your answers.
If you have more questions about taking a 13 year old boy, please feel free to ask. I have lots of experience with that age in Paris - maybe 4 trips worth!
Aug 27th, 2006, 12:11 PM
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Hmmmm, thanks, that is useful information. I do like the idea of a quieter, more neighborhood feel. We don't mind a fairly long walk and using the metro or bus is always an option as well. When we were in London, we ate out all over the city and stayed in a more residential area, but one that was still centrally located. I want the hotel to be convenient, but that doesn't mean smack in the middle of major crowds.
I was in Paris for 2 or 3 days in high school and my husband was there for a couple of days during a college backpacking trip. So, this is our first time in 25 years and the first time for our son. While I have some good ideas of what we might want to do and see, I would love to hear any suggestions you may have for us or for our 13 year old son.
Thanks!
I was in Paris for 2 or 3 days in high school and my husband was there for a couple of days during a college backpacking trip. So, this is our first time in 25 years and the first time for our son. While I have some good ideas of what we might want to do and see, I would love to hear any suggestions you may have for us or for our 13 year old son.
Thanks!
Aug 27th, 2006, 01:52 PM
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The biggies for my 12 year old son were:
Eiffel Tower (would prefer it when not raining)
Arc de Triomphe - must go at rush hour to watch the traffic
Catacombs
Disneyland Paris (sorry, but he is standing here giving me the list )
climb the Notre Dame towers to see the gargoyles
We mixed all this with my list of "kids must see this" as in my report (ie Louvre, etc)
He says not to miss "the hot chocolate place" (Angelina's), "the famous ice cream" (Berthillion), the pizza place with the best pizza he says he ever had (it WAS good - Vesuvius near Eglise St. Germaine) and the walk-up crepe stands (ham and cheese, my older son loves them with Nutella). He almost forgot his favorite soda in France - Orangina! He won't recommend the escargot but he did try them and actually ate a second! (I thought it would be a cool way to gross out his friends, but he hasn't mentioned it!)
Have fun planning
Eiffel Tower (would prefer it when not raining)
Arc de Triomphe - must go at rush hour to watch the traffic
Catacombs
Disneyland Paris (sorry, but he is standing here giving me the list
)climb the Notre Dame towers to see the gargoyles
We mixed all this with my list of "kids must see this" as in my report (ie Louvre, etc)
He says not to miss "the hot chocolate place" (Angelina's), "the famous ice cream" (Berthillion), the pizza place with the best pizza he says he ever had (it WAS good - Vesuvius near Eglise St. Germaine) and the walk-up crepe stands (ham and cheese, my older son loves them with Nutella). He almost forgot his favorite soda in France - Orangina! He won't recommend the escargot
but he did try them and actually ate a second! (I thought it would be a cool way to gross out his friends, but he hasn't mentioned it!)Have fun planning
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