Trip Report - Lake Como
#1
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Trip Report - Lake Como
We were lucky enough to have four full days plus part of an afternoon on Lake Como. For a home base we used the famous Albergo Olivado in Varenna. A couple of years ago, we had spent two nights there and were anxious to return.
The Albergo Olivado has a half pension arragement so all our dinners where on site. We had fine meals each and every time.
Most of what we did has ride the boats up the three arms of the lake and back and explore Varenna.
We arrived mid afternoon on a Monday. My son and I went to the mini golf in Menaggio (a rematch from our previous trip).
On our first full day, we starting with an expedition to Bellagio with plans to take the 11:30 boat to Lecco. The trip Lecco is really nice and is highly recommended. In my opinion, Lecco is the most bustling city on the lake. The boat schedule only allowed an hour there, so we had a nice walk and lunch and returned.
The Albergo Olivado has a half pension arragement so all our dinners where on site. We had fine meals each and every time.
Most of what we did has ride the boats up the three arms of the lake and back and explore Varenna.
We arrived mid afternoon on a Monday. My son and I went to the mini golf in Menaggio (a rematch from our previous trip).
On our first full day, we starting with an expedition to Bellagio with plans to take the 11:30 boat to Lecco. The trip Lecco is really nice and is highly recommended. In my opinion, Lecco is the most bustling city on the lake. The boat schedule only allowed an hour there, so we had a nice walk and lunch and returned.
#2
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On our second day, we had to return the car to Como.
We crossed the lake on the car ferry and headed for Como. Our intention had been to use the car for frequent stops on the way to Como. We did stop at Argegno which has a nice little port/ bay. At Cernobbio however, construction work was forcing both lanes of the highway around Cernobbio and down an alley about seven feet wide (quite a delay). After getting thru that uniquely Italian experience, we decided to head directly for Como.
We did not have a detailed map of Como but with a little bit of driving around we were able to find the road and ultimately the office for the rental car company.
We found some nice photos of some lakefront scenes (very high resolution) and some silk ties for Euro 5 each. (You cant beat it.)
For our third day, we went to the north of the lake. We took the catamaran service to Colico. Colico has a nice lakefront and a large separate marina but seemed a little slow. I had wanted to see the World War One fort that is just outside Colico. We found the fort but unfortunately it is open on Saturdays and Sundays for a few hours or by more expensive special arrangement.
We also stopped at Dongo but the boat schedule did not allow any other stops.
We crossed the lake on the car ferry and headed for Como. Our intention had been to use the car for frequent stops on the way to Como. We did stop at Argegno which has a nice little port/ bay. At Cernobbio however, construction work was forcing both lanes of the highway around Cernobbio and down an alley about seven feet wide (quite a delay). After getting thru that uniquely Italian experience, we decided to head directly for Como.
We did not have a detailed map of Como but with a little bit of driving around we were able to find the road and ultimately the office for the rental car company.
We found some nice photos of some lakefront scenes (very high resolution) and some silk ties for Euro 5 each. (You cant beat it.)
For our third day, we went to the north of the lake. We took the catamaran service to Colico. Colico has a nice lakefront and a large separate marina but seemed a little slow. I had wanted to see the World War One fort that is just outside Colico. We found the fort but unfortunately it is open on Saturdays and Sundays for a few hours or by more expensive special arrangement.
We also stopped at Dongo but the boat schedule did not allow any other stops.
#3
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Somewhere in all this shuttling around, we went to Bellano which is just north of Varenna. Bellano is a nice sized town and very attractive. We were able to see the orrido which is a deep, narrow gorge carved by a river which seems to carry a lot of snow runoff. There is a large pipe which goes into a building so apparently most of the water volume is now channeled off to generate electricity.
#4
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On our final day, My son and I tried to get in another game of mini golf in Menaggio but they were not open. We met my wife in Ballagio had lunch and returned to Varenna.
In Varenna we toured the grounds of Villa Monastero and Villa Cipresi and got our train tickets etc for our leaving. And we left yesterday morning.
In Varenna we toured the grounds of Villa Monastero and Villa Cipresi and got our train tickets etc for our leaving. And we left yesterday morning.
#5
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In the end, we explored up the three arms of lake. But the real attractions to Lake Como are the views and the weather, not the towns. There is something about Lake Como that is very, very special. We all enjoyed just riding in the boats. I took an incredible number of pictures and maybe ten come close to capturing the beauty of Lake Como.
We did not see Cernobbio, Blevio, Gravedona, Domaso, Dorio or Tremezzo so I can not comment on those or any others not mentioned. If anyone else has seen these, then please tell us.
We did not see Cernobbio, Blevio, Gravedona, Domaso, Dorio or Tremezzo so I can not comment on those or any others not mentioned. If anyone else has seen these, then please tell us.
#7
Joined: Apr 2003
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I really enjoyed reading your reviews, especially these of Lake Como. We've also spent 3 fabulous nights at the Albergo Olivedo, and this brought back many fabulous memories. Did you have any of their ravioli in brown butter and sage? I was so obsessed with these that I had them every night, once as an entree! Laura, the proprietor, even gave me her brother's recipe (he's the cook) so I could make them at home. I try all the time, but never get quite the same results, of course. Is Laura still the pit-bull/loving mother she was when we were there? What a personality!
We had a beautiful, antique-filled room overlooking the lake with 2 sets of french doors and a small balcony. It was so breathtaking. The only drawbacks were the lack of a lift, and the rock-hard mattress. But those were so minor compared to the view and the ambience. We still dream of going back some day. Thanks for the report!
We had a beautiful, antique-filled room overlooking the lake with 2 sets of french doors and a small balcony. It was so breathtaking. The only drawbacks were the lack of a lift, and the rock-hard mattress. But those were so minor compared to the view and the ambience. We still dream of going back some day. Thanks for the report!
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#9
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Bob - Our room at the Olivedo was fine (it was actually the exact same room as 2 or 3 years ago). We needed a triple because out ten year son was with us. The albergo has air conditioning which is a recent addition(I think).
Hagan - I had the cheese ravoli at least twice. My wife really likes their pesto gnochi (spelling?). And Laura is still the same doting mother type that she always has been (chuckle, chuckle). The matress was a little firm but I slept just fine (no sleeping problem at all.)
Hopingtotravel - A car is not necessary for Lake Como. There is frequent train service to Varenna and Varenna is one of the hubs for the various boat services. The mid lake region (where Varenna, Bellagio, and Menaggio are)is almost a constant bustle what with car ferry service, the regular north-south through boats, the high speed boats and a special mid-lake boat service. There also are some buses running around.
It is all very easy. If you have any more questions, then please feel free to ask.
Hagan - I had the cheese ravoli at least twice. My wife really likes their pesto gnochi (spelling?). And Laura is still the same doting mother type that she always has been (chuckle, chuckle). The matress was a little firm but I slept just fine (no sleeping problem at all.)
Hopingtotravel - A car is not necessary for Lake Como. There is frequent train service to Varenna and Varenna is one of the hubs for the various boat services. The mid lake region (where Varenna, Bellagio, and Menaggio are)is almost a constant bustle what with car ferry service, the regular north-south through boats, the high speed boats and a special mid-lake boat service. There also are some buses running around.
It is all very easy. If you have any more questions, then please feel free to ask.
#10
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 817
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Doble,
Just thinking about Laura makes me chuckle! One night, we were all told we'd be dining outdoors and had assigned tables. As we were sitting with some others we'd met there, we saw several couples pull up on motorcycles and they walked over to sit at one of the empty tables. Well, before we could blink, Laura was out there in their faces, speaking what sounded like German, had a short, loud conversation, and off they went. Evidently, they'd tried to sit at one of the tables reserved for hotel guests! Gestapo Mama! Then, on the morning of our departure, she took each of our faces in her hands, kissed both our cheeks, and seemed sincerely sad we were leaving. On a side note, one of our daughters had e-mailed her before our stay (we'd given them our detailed itinerary), and she helped them arrange for a huge basket of wines, proseccos, cheeses, crackers, candies, etc. to be delivered to our room for our 40th anniversary. She just couldn't have been more delightful. Glad we were on her good side! Memories are made of this.
Just thinking about Laura makes me chuckle! One night, we were all told we'd be dining outdoors and had assigned tables. As we were sitting with some others we'd met there, we saw several couples pull up on motorcycles and they walked over to sit at one of the empty tables. Well, before we could blink, Laura was out there in their faces, speaking what sounded like German, had a short, loud conversation, and off they went. Evidently, they'd tried to sit at one of the tables reserved for hotel guests! Gestapo Mama! Then, on the morning of our departure, she took each of our faces in her hands, kissed both our cheeks, and seemed sincerely sad we were leaving. On a side note, one of our daughters had e-mailed her before our stay (we'd given them our detailed itinerary), and she helped them arrange for a huge basket of wines, proseccos, cheeses, crackers, candies, etc. to be delivered to our room for our 40th anniversary. She just couldn't have been more delightful. Glad we were on her good side! Memories are made of this.
#12
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 16
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I would love to hear more about Bellano. We are staying there in August. I have not had the best luck trying to get a lot of information about the town. (Our hotel looks perfect for us, and we know we can just get on ferries to go to other areas- just don't know about shops, restaurants, etc in Bellano.)
#14
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Nini - Lunch was taken in whatever town we were in at noon time (Lecco once, Bellagio twice, Como once).
PTD - We liked Bellano (our thoughts were somewhere between 'I could stay here' to 'I could live here.') Unfortunately I can't provide answers to your questions. Diedre Straughan posts here often and lives on Lake Como. She (or your hotel) might be able to help you. Also Bellano has its own website -http://www.comune.bellano.lc.it/Eindex.php . Have a good trip.
PTD - We liked Bellano (our thoughts were somewhere between 'I could stay here' to 'I could live here.') Unfortunately I can't provide answers to your questions. Diedre Straughan posts here often and lives on Lake Como. She (or your hotel) might be able to help you. Also Bellano has its own website -http://www.comune.bellano.lc.it/Eindex.php . Have a good trip.
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DeborahAnn
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