Trip report Italy 2008 - Florence, Rome, Tuscany
Jun 17th, 2009, 09:23 PM
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Trip report Italy 2008 - Florence, Rome, Tuscany
This is an overdue trip report from last year. This is in part in thanks to those kind people who responded to my questions and made our trip that much better by their helpful advice. I hope you enjoy it...it may contain more details than you are interested in.
I will start with day 2 our arrival in Florence. This information is directly from my travel journal so here goes:
A preliminary note - I am one of those people who cannot sleep in a flight. It took us 3 flights to arrive in Florence. Many hours. Much exhaustion.
Day 2: Florence
The airport was rather small and crowded but we managed to get our luggage and a cab into the city rather quickly. The city is not what I imagined. It has the worst amount of graffiti I have ever seen. It literally covers every surface. Our cab was 25 euros not including tip.
My husband and I arrived at Palazzo Alfani, via Ricasoli 49 (literally across the street from The Accademia) where we were greeted warmly by Francesca. We took several flights of stairs to a newly remodeled apartment (2007). It is huge and decorated nicely with artwork and colors; very large ceilings. We have 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and a kitchen. We could literally squeeze our home inside of it. The apartment was being cleaned but fortunately during our discussion they finished up. Francesca spoke English but apologized profusely stating that her skills were not very good. I disagreed and thought she did just fine. She had also been to California and loved it. The cost for 2 nights was 480 euros. There is a slight odor whether from age or cigarette smoke I cannot tell but it is still lovely with modern bathrooms and jacuzzi showers.
I really needed a nap so we slept until 7 pm, took showers, and headed out to explore the city. It seems a bit shady in parts of our neighborhood. We looked at several restaurant possibilities then headed through the Central Market area, (closed), to the Duomo (an impressive interior), then Palazzo Vecchio, the Ponte Vecchio (neat, old wooden doors) and to the Oltarno. Florence is absolutely breathtaking at night.
Family members had recommended a restaurant on the Arno called the Golden View. It was a modern restaurant and quite friendly. We were served a small glass of prosecco while we waited for our table. All spoke very good English. We ordered a bottle of Chianti and the following dishes to share: A salad with pear, walnuts and sheep cheese. It was quite a presentation with honey drizzled throughout and delicious. Next a pasta with cinghale meat sauce (also good). DH ordered a fish/prawn dish poached in beer with herbs and spices. I ordered a veal with mushroom sauce. Both were good and light tasting but not extraordinary. The cost for the meal was 124 euros not including tip. We did not finish our meal until 11 pm. It was so unlike what we are used to..it was a nice leisurely meal. By the way it was quite romantic. The restaurant had a live jazz band that played throughout and the artwork displayed throughout the restaurant was extraordinary. All by the same artist but I was afraid to ask the prices. If i am ever to return to Florence I would love to be on this side of the Arno.
I was a bit nervous to walk back to our apartment but seemed quite safe.
End of Day 2
I will start with day 2 our arrival in Florence. This information is directly from my travel journal so here goes:
A preliminary note - I am one of those people who cannot sleep in a flight. It took us 3 flights to arrive in Florence. Many hours. Much exhaustion.
Day 2: Florence
The airport was rather small and crowded but we managed to get our luggage and a cab into the city rather quickly. The city is not what I imagined. It has the worst amount of graffiti I have ever seen. It literally covers every surface. Our cab was 25 euros not including tip.
My husband and I arrived at Palazzo Alfani, via Ricasoli 49 (literally across the street from The Accademia) where we were greeted warmly by Francesca. We took several flights of stairs to a newly remodeled apartment (2007). It is huge and decorated nicely with artwork and colors; very large ceilings. We have 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and a kitchen. We could literally squeeze our home inside of it. The apartment was being cleaned but fortunately during our discussion they finished up. Francesca spoke English but apologized profusely stating that her skills were not very good. I disagreed and thought she did just fine. She had also been to California and loved it. The cost for 2 nights was 480 euros. There is a slight odor whether from age or cigarette smoke I cannot tell but it is still lovely with modern bathrooms and jacuzzi showers.
I really needed a nap so we slept until 7 pm, took showers, and headed out to explore the city. It seems a bit shady in parts of our neighborhood. We looked at several restaurant possibilities then headed through the Central Market area, (closed), to the Duomo (an impressive interior), then Palazzo Vecchio, the Ponte Vecchio (neat, old wooden doors) and to the Oltarno. Florence is absolutely breathtaking at night.
Family members had recommended a restaurant on the Arno called the Golden View. It was a modern restaurant and quite friendly. We were served a small glass of prosecco while we waited for our table. All spoke very good English. We ordered a bottle of Chianti and the following dishes to share: A salad with pear, walnuts and sheep cheese. It was quite a presentation with honey drizzled throughout and delicious. Next a pasta with cinghale meat sauce (also good). DH ordered a fish/prawn dish poached in beer with herbs and spices. I ordered a veal with mushroom sauce. Both were good and light tasting but not extraordinary. The cost for the meal was 124 euros not including tip. We did not finish our meal until 11 pm. It was so unlike what we are used to..it was a nice leisurely meal. By the way it was quite romantic. The restaurant had a live jazz band that played throughout and the artwork displayed throughout the restaurant was extraordinary. All by the same artist but I was afraid to ask the prices. If i am ever to return to Florence I would love to be on this side of the Arno.
I was a bit nervous to walk back to our apartment but seemed quite safe.
End of Day 2
Jun 19th, 2009, 02:24 PM
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You are welcome...and yes it was my first time to Italy.
Day 3 - Florence
We walked around the corner to a bakery called Pugi where we ordered a couple of breakfast bread combos (one like a sandwich the other like a flat stuffed pizza). They weigh the food and charge you accordingly. Then we went down a door or two for cappuccinos. I forgot to say that I wanted a decaf (this detail is relevant later in this dialog) but I figured it was a very small cup.
The lines in front of the Accademia (across the street from our apartment) start very early and you can hear the conversation humming. One line is for reserved and the other line is for non-reserved. They are very non-descript doors considering within those doors is one of the worlds masterpieces "David". Of course there are lots of hustle and bustle with people hawking their wares and entertaining the tourists.
We headed toward the Duomo and saw the door for the Cupola del Brunelleschi. There was a sign that stated that there were a lot of stairs but I thought "I am in pretty good shape and the view is supposed to be incredible". Quoting from the guidebook which I read later "The reasonably able-bodied (except for those suffering from vertigo or claustrophobia) should climb the 463 steps that lead up to the dome".
I knew that I had vertigo but claustrophobia set in and the entire time I was on the edge of a panic attack increased by the fact that I had very little sleep and had consumed caffeinated coffee of a very strong Italian nature and there was no turning back! It was literally a hair-raising experience for me.
Finally made it to the top and as I deeply inhaled the fresh air I must admit the view was spectacular. Another thing to tell people "bring water, mint or gum". I was so parched from high anxiety and exertion I was ready to beg a Japanese tourist for a few of her grapes!
Once again, the view was spectacular but I now had to face the 463 steps going down. Imagine a narrow spiral tunnel that continually goes up (or down) hill where in some cases the steps are double in width and there is a bar on either side, very little fresh air and dimly lit.
Cost for hair-raising experience 6 euros; laughs afterwards priceless.
Day 3 - Florence
We walked around the corner to a bakery called Pugi where we ordered a couple of breakfast bread combos (one like a sandwich the other like a flat stuffed pizza). They weigh the food and charge you accordingly. Then we went down a door or two for cappuccinos. I forgot to say that I wanted a decaf (this detail is relevant later in this dialog) but I figured it was a very small cup.
The lines in front of the Accademia (across the street from our apartment) start very early and you can hear the conversation humming. One line is for reserved and the other line is for non-reserved. They are very non-descript doors considering within those doors is one of the worlds masterpieces "David". Of course there are lots of hustle and bustle with people hawking their wares and entertaining the tourists.
We headed toward the Duomo and saw the door for the Cupola del Brunelleschi. There was a sign that stated that there were a lot of stairs but I thought "I am in pretty good shape and the view is supposed to be incredible". Quoting from the guidebook which I read later "The reasonably able-bodied (except for those suffering from vertigo or claustrophobia) should climb the 463 steps that lead up to the dome".
I knew that I had vertigo but claustrophobia set in and the entire time I was on the edge of a panic attack increased by the fact that I had very little sleep and had consumed caffeinated coffee of a very strong Italian nature and there was no turning back! It was literally a hair-raising experience for me.
Finally made it to the top and as I deeply inhaled the fresh air I must admit the view was spectacular. Another thing to tell people "bring water, mint or gum". I was so parched from high anxiety and exertion I was ready to beg a Japanese tourist for a few of her grapes!
Once again, the view was spectacular but I now had to face the 463 steps going down. Imagine a narrow spiral tunnel that continually goes up (or down) hill where in some cases the steps are double in width and there is a bar on either side, very little fresh air and dimly lit.
Cost for hair-raising experience 6 euros; laughs afterwards priceless.
Jun 19th, 2009, 08:21 PM
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Well I have naturally curly hair so I guess you could say I looked like Medusa! 
Day 3- Florence continued
Spent the next few hours recovering from shaking in my boots. After a very much needed bottle of water we went to find the Walking Tours of Florence office. After walking a bit of a maze, DH asked a postal worker for directions and Eureka we found it.
We still had several hours before the tour began so crossed the Arno for a visit to Pitti Palace. We decided upon the Boboli Gardens due to time constraints. We each paid 6 euros and had to wait in line for what turned out to be a security check. As our time was limited...I began to think we had paid to stand in line.
Despite the beautiful views of the city (many more stairs), the garden was not very exciting and I would not recommend it.
We checked at Florence walking tours and with extra time to spare ducked into a bar/restaurant for a glass of wine/beer. They had a wood burning oven and the pizza looked delicious but time was short and I needed a bathroom as Florence has them in short demand.
We ended up with a fantastic young art historian, a prior Californian. She was truly outstanding and brought the famous artwork, artists and history to life. The crowds were fierce outside of the Uffizi and even though we were in the "reserve line" we still ended up waiting quite a while.
Another security check and 4 large sets of stairs we were in! I can understand why the Uffizi is so magnificent. By comparison to other museums I have been to it seemed more intimate. After all that my legs had been through I took every opportunity to sit but it also allowed me to enjoy the experience without feeling too rushed. I would definitely recommend paying for the tour. Overall very enjoyable despite the fact that I was getting weak from hunger and had to use the bathroom.
The square around this area is called Piazza della Signoria where the David replica is and other amazing sculptures. It is particularly lovely at night.
We walked back to the apartment and found a deli along the way called Osteria De L'Ortolano. We brought grilled and marinated veggies, cheeses, bread & prosciutto. My sister had arrived and we opened a bottle of wine while comparing our travel experiences.
Around 7:30 that night we headed to a Fodor's forum highly recommended restaurant called La Giostra. The guidebook said reservations were essential but we decided to take our chances. They were immediately welcoming and the atmosphere was warm and romantic at the same time. They started out with complimentary prosecco. We ordered the following to share: zucchini carpaccio, mushroom tagliatelle, homemade cheese and pear raviolis. Next, baby goat with fried zucchini flowers; white beans and rocket lettuce with tomatoes (the last was the only one we didn't like...everything else was excellent!!) The delicious red wine that accompanied our meal was a sangiovese-merlot combo but did not write down the name.
All of that but I forgot to mention that they brought out a complimentary HUGE platter of antipasto. The food just kept coming until I thought I was going to burst. They were exceeding generous and kind.
Last but not least my DH and sis had an Amaro (I didn't care for it too bitter) and I had a cherry liquor. Our waiter left the bottles on the table and came back to pour us a complimentary round. We were treated like royalty and our visit to that restaurant was definitely a highlight.
The restaurant is located at Borgo Pinti at the cost was 138 euros not including tip. I believe there are 2 parts of the restaurant and we were at the more casual one on the left hand side.
We enjoyed a leisurely stroll back to the apartment.
End of Day 3
Day 3- Florence continued
Spent the next few hours recovering from shaking in my boots. After a very much needed bottle of water we went to find the Walking Tours of Florence office. After walking a bit of a maze, DH asked a postal worker for directions and Eureka we found it.
We still had several hours before the tour began so crossed the Arno for a visit to Pitti Palace. We decided upon the Boboli Gardens due to time constraints. We each paid 6 euros and had to wait in line for what turned out to be a security check. As our time was limited...I began to think we had paid to stand in line.
Despite the beautiful views of the city (many more stairs), the garden was not very exciting and I would not recommend it.
We checked at Florence walking tours and with extra time to spare ducked into a bar/restaurant for a glass of wine/beer. They had a wood burning oven and the pizza looked delicious but time was short and I needed a bathroom as Florence has them in short demand.
We ended up with a fantastic young art historian, a prior Californian. She was truly outstanding and brought the famous artwork, artists and history to life. The crowds were fierce outside of the Uffizi and even though we were in the "reserve line" we still ended up waiting quite a while.
Another security check and 4 large sets of stairs we were in! I can understand why the Uffizi is so magnificent. By comparison to other museums I have been to it seemed more intimate. After all that my legs had been through I took every opportunity to sit but it also allowed me to enjoy the experience without feeling too rushed. I would definitely recommend paying for the tour. Overall very enjoyable despite the fact that I was getting weak from hunger and had to use the bathroom.
The square around this area is called Piazza della Signoria where the David replica is and other amazing sculptures. It is particularly lovely at night.
We walked back to the apartment and found a deli along the way called Osteria De L'Ortolano. We brought grilled and marinated veggies, cheeses, bread & prosciutto. My sister had arrived and we opened a bottle of wine while comparing our travel experiences.
Around 7:30 that night we headed to a Fodor's forum highly recommended restaurant called La Giostra. The guidebook said reservations were essential but we decided to take our chances. They were immediately welcoming and the atmosphere was warm and romantic at the same time. They started out with complimentary prosecco. We ordered the following to share: zucchini carpaccio, mushroom tagliatelle, homemade cheese and pear raviolis. Next, baby goat with fried zucchini flowers; white beans and rocket lettuce with tomatoes (the last was the only one we didn't like...everything else was excellent!!) The delicious red wine that accompanied our meal was a sangiovese-merlot combo but did not write down the name.
All of that but I forgot to mention that they brought out a complimentary HUGE platter of antipasto. The food just kept coming until I thought I was going to burst. They were exceeding generous and kind.
Last but not least my DH and sis had an Amaro (I didn't care for it too bitter) and I had a cherry liquor. Our waiter left the bottles on the table and came back to pour us a complimentary round. We were treated like royalty and our visit to that restaurant was definitely a highlight.
The restaurant is located at Borgo Pinti at the cost was 138 euros not including tip. I believe there are 2 parts of the restaurant and we were at the more casual one on the left hand side.
We enjoyed a leisurely stroll back to the apartment.
End of Day 3
Jun 19th, 2009, 08:51 PM
#7
Florence has many public restrooms, you just have to know to look for the round yellow courtesy point symbol. Here's a map of the public restrooms for your next trip.
http://www.comune.firenze.it/servizi.../courtesy1.pdf
A bigger picture of the symbol:
http://www.comune.firenze.it/servizi.../c_p/point.htm
http://www.comune.firenze.it/servizi.../courtesy1.pdf
A bigger picture of the symbol:
http://www.comune.firenze.it/servizi.../c_p/point.htm
Jun 20th, 2009, 03:30 PM
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Dear kybourbon....Thank you for your response. I especially love that you worded it with "...for your next trip." I certainly hope so!!
Day 4- Florence to San Gimignano
We started our morning once again at Pugi. We had a 9:30 reservation at the Accademia which had some wonderful artwork and of course the real "David". It is 14 feet high and took Michelangelo 3 years to complete. I looked at the sculpture, walked away and then back again to look at it once more and then again. I am in awe of this sculpture. It was also fun to see the numerous art students sketching around his awesome display.
From there we went to the San Marcos church where we saw some beautiful frescoes by Fra Angelico. You could see the pain-staking restoration they were doing was intricate and precise.
We had originally planned on taking the bus to San Gimignano but our taxi driver quoted us a price of 120 euros to take us directly there and we jumped at it. Although the driver got slightly lost is was a pleasant drive. There was a lot of greenery and typical Tuscan houses (castle-like).
Our other family members met us in San Gimignano and we stop for a late lunch at Ristorante Leonetto. We had several kinds of bruschetta, risotto, pigeon, salmon pasta and I ordered a pappardelle with cingiale. Overall a decent meal but mine was the least favorite. For desert we ordered Cantuccini biscotti and vin santo. For me the favorite part of the meal!
We have booked an apartment (agriturismo) called Santo Pietro. They grow both grapes and olives and is reminiscent of Napa Valley.
Santo Pietro is approximately 15 minutes or so to San Gimignano but we are definitely in the country. We have a 4 bedroom, 4 bath with small kitchen. Outside is a pool (although too cool to use in early May) and a wood burning BBQ. During the period of our stay, we are able to prepare a lot of our own meals which are as good if not better than the restaurants. We buy bottles of San Pietro wine and they cost approximate 6 euros per bottle. Very reasonable.
End of Day 4
Day 4- Florence to San Gimignano
We started our morning once again at Pugi. We had a 9:30 reservation at the Accademia which had some wonderful artwork and of course the real "David". It is 14 feet high and took Michelangelo 3 years to complete. I looked at the sculpture, walked away and then back again to look at it once more and then again. I am in awe of this sculpture. It was also fun to see the numerous art students sketching around his awesome display.
From there we went to the San Marcos church where we saw some beautiful frescoes by Fra Angelico. You could see the pain-staking restoration they were doing was intricate and precise.
We had originally planned on taking the bus to San Gimignano but our taxi driver quoted us a price of 120 euros to take us directly there and we jumped at it. Although the driver got slightly lost is was a pleasant drive. There was a lot of greenery and typical Tuscan houses (castle-like).
Our other family members met us in San Gimignano and we stop for a late lunch at Ristorante Leonetto. We had several kinds of bruschetta, risotto, pigeon, salmon pasta and I ordered a pappardelle with cingiale. Overall a decent meal but mine was the least favorite. For desert we ordered Cantuccini biscotti and vin santo. For me the favorite part of the meal!
We have booked an apartment (agriturismo) called Santo Pietro. They grow both grapes and olives and is reminiscent of Napa Valley.
Santo Pietro is approximately 15 minutes or so to San Gimignano but we are definitely in the country. We have a 4 bedroom, 4 bath with small kitchen. Outside is a pool (although too cool to use in early May) and a wood burning BBQ. During the period of our stay, we are able to prepare a lot of our own meals which are as good if not better than the restaurants. We buy bottles of San Pietro wine and they cost approximate 6 euros per bottle. Very reasonable.
End of Day 4
Jun 21st, 2009, 03:04 PM
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Starting to condense reports...less excitement in smaller towns and don't want to bore with small details.
Day 5 - Sam Gimignano & Volterra
We decided to go the farmer's market early. I love San Gimignano it is so pristine, yes touristy but depending on what time you are there it can have such charm. We got there early enough so there were relatively few tourists. Their market also has goods such as clothes, shoes, kitchen items etc. All the produce looked fantastic.
I bought 2 freshly cooked rotisserie chickens, raw shrimp and vegetables. At times it was intimidating but some vendors were extremely friendly as well. We stopped at the entrance to have coffee and pastries and to buy some pasta.
Later that morning we drove to Volterra. Another fun town to walk around in, of course more outstanding artwork and we wondered leisurely to the park by Fortress Medici which still holds prisoners to this date.
Our lunch was at Poggio (primarily pizza, pasta etc.) I ordered a prosciutto, artichoke, mushroom and olive pizza which was so good! Our wine was Ok but only 10 euros for the bottle.
My first experience with true Italian gelato afterwards. I tried a flavor called Tarrone...I will remember forever it was the best I have ever had.
We have rented a van for our day-trips as there are 7 of us all together. We have nicknamed our GPS system "Gina" and it is funny to hear the Italian pronunciations. Sometimes it is absolutely hysterical and other times very annoying.
End of Day 5
Day 5 - Sam Gimignano & Volterra
We decided to go the farmer's market early. I love San Gimignano it is so pristine, yes touristy but depending on what time you are there it can have such charm. We got there early enough so there were relatively few tourists. Their market also has goods such as clothes, shoes, kitchen items etc. All the produce looked fantastic.
I bought 2 freshly cooked rotisserie chickens, raw shrimp and vegetables. At times it was intimidating but some vendors were extremely friendly as well. We stopped at the entrance to have coffee and pastries and to buy some pasta.
Later that morning we drove to Volterra. Another fun town to walk around in, of course more outstanding artwork and we wondered leisurely to the park by Fortress Medici which still holds prisoners to this date.
Our lunch was at Poggio (primarily pizza, pasta etc.) I ordered a prosciutto, artichoke, mushroom and olive pizza which was so good! Our wine was Ok but only 10 euros for the bottle.
My first experience with true Italian gelato afterwards. I tried a flavor called Tarrone...I will remember forever it was the best I have ever had.
We have rented a van for our day-trips as there are 7 of us all together. We have nicknamed our GPS system "Gina" and it is funny to hear the Italian pronunciations. Sometimes it is absolutely hysterical and other times very annoying.
End of Day 5
Jul 3rd, 2009, 11:44 PM
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Thank you! It is nice to know someone is enjoying these reports.
Day 6 - Montalcino
Our place in San Gimignano is so peaceful. I am really enjoying the scenery and quiet of this area. We leave around 9 am to head to Montalcino about an hour and forty-five minute drive. It is such a scenic drive. What a beautiful city!! We wander through the shops and art galleries.
At the end of the road we come across a "slow food" restaurant called Ristorante Giardino. The menu is impressive. We have the following items on the menu:
Pork w/ truffles; cingiale stew w/ potatoes; foie gras with apple compote; pasta w/ truffle butter sauce; pasta w/ beef ragu; pinci pasta with chiana beef; salami platter; gnocci with ricotta, spinach, butter & sage and chiana beef with Brunello sauce. Everything SO delicious. I am not normally a "beef eater" but truly this is the best meat I have ever had. At the end DH shares his tiramisu. We are all in heaven.
Afterwards we head to the Fortezza for a Brunello tasting. Overall we were not too impressed with the wine. On our way home we stop at Sant' Antimo which is very pretty but unfortunately we do not get to hear the Gregorian chants.
For dinner we make artichokes and prawns with garlic & oil. Another fun delicious day in Italy!
End of Day 6
Day 7 - Tour w/ Luca of Hills & Roads
Thanks to a recommendation on the Forum, we have arranged for a tour with Luca. He arrives at 9:30 am. Our first stop is an abbey called Isola. It is very pretty and not as touristy as Sant' Antimo. Pilgrims would stop at these abbeys about every 30 km and stay to eat/sleep on their way from France to Jerusalem.
Luca has a great personality. He is funny making us laugh frequently but also knowledgeable about history. Next we head to Monteriggioni which is a quaint little town and again not as touristy.
He has arranged an olive oil/wine tasting at Fattoria di Corsignano. This is a place that would be worth staying at another time, gorgeous pool and surrounds. We have seen several wedding parties in our few days in Italy and this is again a place where we see another.
We enjoy meeting Esa as she gives us a tour of their wine production. We are really liking the wines they range in price from 4.50 euros to 13 euros for their Chianti reserve. We buy a case and some of the olive oil as well. The surrounding valley are beautiful. They are reminiscent of Napa Valley but much more expansive and spacious.
Next, Luca takes us to private farm to meet Stefanie. She will be cooking a meal just for us. Upon arrival we are shown their pet deer. Apparently her husband nearly killed the fawn while out in the field. He went to help the deer which changed its fate as the mother would not reject the baby as foreign. They now keep the deer in their courtyard.
Around the corner, our table is made. Stefanie comes outside greeting us with with a bubbly personality and very little English. She gestured and smiled and we all felt completely at home.
DH and Luca disappear to fill 2 bottles of table wine (no label). Everything we are about to eat has been grown in their garden including the grapes that make our wine! We start with a zucchini frittata. I have had many frittatas in my life but this one is sublime. Next a squash and tomato gratin. Each course is better than the previous one and there are no complaints at the table. Time has slowed down as we all savor every bite. She brings out a one of kind pumpkin lasagne. The next course is a beef dish with a light gravy and enormous fried sage leaves. They taste better than chips. Finally she produces a latticed fig tart. Her food and hospitality will forever live in my memory. I think this would be my last meal if I knew I only had 1 day left to live.
After coffee, she invites us into her home which has been in her family for 7 generations. We see a variety of heirlooms and enjoy her spunk for life.
As we leave we take the Chianti road to Vertine. It is an old village with few inhabitants but several teenage/college age boys are playing soccer and DH gets to volley with them for awhile. Photo opportunity missed but so Italy!
End of Day 7
Day 6 - Montalcino
Our place in San Gimignano is so peaceful. I am really enjoying the scenery and quiet of this area. We leave around 9 am to head to Montalcino about an hour and forty-five minute drive. It is such a scenic drive. What a beautiful city!! We wander through the shops and art galleries.
At the end of the road we come across a "slow food" restaurant called Ristorante Giardino. The menu is impressive. We have the following items on the menu:
Pork w/ truffles; cingiale stew w/ potatoes; foie gras with apple compote; pasta w/ truffle butter sauce; pasta w/ beef ragu; pinci pasta with chiana beef; salami platter; gnocci with ricotta, spinach, butter & sage and chiana beef with Brunello sauce. Everything SO delicious. I am not normally a "beef eater" but truly this is the best meat I have ever had. At the end DH shares his tiramisu. We are all in heaven.
Afterwards we head to the Fortezza for a Brunello tasting. Overall we were not too impressed with the wine. On our way home we stop at Sant' Antimo which is very pretty but unfortunately we do not get to hear the Gregorian chants.
For dinner we make artichokes and prawns with garlic & oil. Another fun delicious day in Italy!
End of Day 6
Day 7 - Tour w/ Luca of Hills & Roads
Thanks to a recommendation on the Forum, we have arranged for a tour with Luca. He arrives at 9:30 am. Our first stop is an abbey called Isola. It is very pretty and not as touristy as Sant' Antimo. Pilgrims would stop at these abbeys about every 30 km and stay to eat/sleep on their way from France to Jerusalem.
Luca has a great personality. He is funny making us laugh frequently but also knowledgeable about history. Next we head to Monteriggioni which is a quaint little town and again not as touristy.
He has arranged an olive oil/wine tasting at Fattoria di Corsignano. This is a place that would be worth staying at another time, gorgeous pool and surrounds. We have seen several wedding parties in our few days in Italy and this is again a place where we see another.
We enjoy meeting Esa as she gives us a tour of their wine production. We are really liking the wines they range in price from 4.50 euros to 13 euros for their Chianti reserve. We buy a case and some of the olive oil as well. The surrounding valley are beautiful. They are reminiscent of Napa Valley but much more expansive and spacious.
Next, Luca takes us to private farm to meet Stefanie. She will be cooking a meal just for us. Upon arrival we are shown their pet deer. Apparently her husband nearly killed the fawn while out in the field. He went to help the deer which changed its fate as the mother would not reject the baby as foreign. They now keep the deer in their courtyard.
Around the corner, our table is made. Stefanie comes outside greeting us with with a bubbly personality and very little English. She gestured and smiled and we all felt completely at home.
DH and Luca disappear to fill 2 bottles of table wine (no label). Everything we are about to eat has been grown in their garden including the grapes that make our wine! We start with a zucchini frittata. I have had many frittatas in my life but this one is sublime. Next a squash and tomato gratin. Each course is better than the previous one and there are no complaints at the table. Time has slowed down as we all savor every bite. She brings out a one of kind pumpkin lasagne. The next course is a beef dish with a light gravy and enormous fried sage leaves. They taste better than chips. Finally she produces a latticed fig tart. Her food and hospitality will forever live in my memory. I think this would be my last meal if I knew I only had 1 day left to live.
After coffee, she invites us into her home which has been in her family for 7 generations. We see a variety of heirlooms and enjoy her spunk for life.
As we leave we take the Chianti road to Vertine. It is an old village with few inhabitants but several teenage/college age boys are playing soccer and DH gets to volley with them for awhile. Photo opportunity missed but so Italy!
End of Day 7
Jul 12th, 2009, 11:42 AM
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Jul 13th, 2009, 08:12 AM
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Thanks!!! I am glad that you have received the contact information for Luca. It was a highlight for us! You have encouraged me to continue with the report so here goes...
Day 8 - It is Mother's Day and we decide to stay at the agriturismo. We sleep in, do laundry, make excellent meals and nap. Very relaxing.
Day 9 - Siena
We left around 9 am for Siena which took about an hour to get there. Siena is a college town and a bit hard to navigate. We tried to find parking for quite a while and ended up near the Italian Fortezza. From there we took the "scenic" route or in other words took the wrong route but we are able to get a higher perspective of the view.
If you love shopping, you will love Siena central. Each store seems to be a specialty shop so you might see one that just sells ties but the colors and display of ties is a work of art! There are incredible varieties of stores....fashion is part of this culture and so artfully displayed that you are drawn in even if you never wear a tie!
We head straight to the Piazza del Campo which is where the Palio takes place. Much smaller than I expect it to be. Next we go to the Duomo. It is absolutely spectacular. I could spend hours breathing in this beauty. Unfortunately, pictures cannot do this place justice.
We make our way back through town, all the while looking for a place to eat. We settle on Ristorante La Buca Di Siena right off the Piazza. We have a variety of pizza, pasta, and beverages. The overall consensus is that is is an average restaurant.
Our group splits up for their various interests. DH and I go to Museo Civico in Palazza Pubblico. I highly recommend this museum. Beautiful historic architectural details, frescoes, etc. Below ground there are 3 floors of modern art work.
Before we leave town I must try another gelato...thus far I have only tried 1 and so many flavors to chose from! We find the Gelataria Brivido and I order a small coconut/butter brickle. Of course it is delicious!
Funny event of the day: We are concerned about our parking meter running out of time and receiving a ticket and how much that might cost. When we asked the waiter after some confusion in translation, he says "Do what the Italians do" and then pantomimes tearing the ticket up and tossing it away. Very amusing.
End of Day 9
Day 10 - Certaldo
Certaldo is not a typical tourist town. You really get a sense of the community here. We take the funicular to the older part of town. Very pretty views and old brick buildings. We enjoy wandering around relatively alone.
We debate whether to stay for lunch or go to Chianti. This is what happened. In walking the side street to check out menus we smell porcini mushrooms wafting about and after glancing at the menu it seems a good idea to stay. The restaurant is called Taverna l'Antica Fonte. We as always order a variety of food the highlights include chianina beef carpacchio, gnocchi with truffle cream (Yum!), cinghiale braesola, carbonara pasta, several salads and 2 bottles of white wine from the region. Absolutely lovely views and ambiance. We have our longest lunch yet...3 hours!
Some notes about Santo Pietro where we are staying. Incredible views. Many mornings I awaken to find colorful hot air balloons looking through my window. Scenery amazing and spacious. Beautiful pool and BBQ area. Great showers with water pressure, nice reception, beautiful antiques. Downsides- bad beds, pillows, no real lounge area inside, and poorly designed kitchen. Also can be cold with rainy, overcast weather.
My DH and MIL disappear and it turns out they are invited to the house of a gal that works here. They come back with fresh eggs, sausage and goat cheese. So considerate and kind!
End of day 10
Day 8 - It is Mother's Day and we decide to stay at the agriturismo. We sleep in, do laundry, make excellent meals and nap. Very relaxing.
Day 9 - Siena
We left around 9 am for Siena which took about an hour to get there. Siena is a college town and a bit hard to navigate. We tried to find parking for quite a while and ended up near the Italian Fortezza. From there we took the "scenic" route or in other words took the wrong route but we are able to get a higher perspective of the view.
If you love shopping, you will love Siena central. Each store seems to be a specialty shop so you might see one that just sells ties but the colors and display of ties is a work of art! There are incredible varieties of stores....fashion is part of this culture and so artfully displayed that you are drawn in even if you never wear a tie!
We head straight to the Piazza del Campo which is where the Palio takes place. Much smaller than I expect it to be. Next we go to the Duomo. It is absolutely spectacular. I could spend hours breathing in this beauty. Unfortunately, pictures cannot do this place justice.
We make our way back through town, all the while looking for a place to eat. We settle on Ristorante La Buca Di Siena right off the Piazza. We have a variety of pizza, pasta, and beverages. The overall consensus is that is is an average restaurant.
Our group splits up for their various interests. DH and I go to Museo Civico in Palazza Pubblico. I highly recommend this museum. Beautiful historic architectural details, frescoes, etc. Below ground there are 3 floors of modern art work.
Before we leave town I must try another gelato...thus far I have only tried 1 and so many flavors to chose from! We find the Gelataria Brivido and I order a small coconut/butter brickle. Of course it is delicious!
Funny event of the day: We are concerned about our parking meter running out of time and receiving a ticket and how much that might cost. When we asked the waiter after some confusion in translation, he says "Do what the Italians do" and then pantomimes tearing the ticket up and tossing it away. Very amusing.
End of Day 9
Day 10 - Certaldo
Certaldo is not a typical tourist town. You really get a sense of the community here. We take the funicular to the older part of town. Very pretty views and old brick buildings. We enjoy wandering around relatively alone.
We debate whether to stay for lunch or go to Chianti. This is what happened. In walking the side street to check out menus we smell porcini mushrooms wafting about and after glancing at the menu it seems a good idea to stay. The restaurant is called Taverna l'Antica Fonte. We as always order a variety of food the highlights include chianina beef carpacchio, gnocchi with truffle cream (Yum!), cinghiale braesola, carbonara pasta, several salads and 2 bottles of white wine from the region. Absolutely lovely views and ambiance. We have our longest lunch yet...3 hours!
Some notes about Santo Pietro where we are staying. Incredible views. Many mornings I awaken to find colorful hot air balloons looking through my window. Scenery amazing and spacious. Beautiful pool and BBQ area. Great showers with water pressure, nice reception, beautiful antiques. Downsides- bad beds, pillows, no real lounge area inside, and poorly designed kitchen. Also can be cold with rainy, overcast weather.
My DH and MIL disappear and it turns out they are invited to the house of a gal that works here. They come back with fresh eggs, sausage and goat cheese. So considerate and kind!
End of day 10
Jul 13th, 2009, 06:09 PM
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Day 11 - Montepulciano
We left at 8:45 towards our destination of Montepulciano. We stopped beforehand at the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. Quite awesome and definitely worth a stop. The church itself is ornate yet understated, frescoes line the walls everywhere. Unfortunately we once again missed the Gregorian chants.
Upon arrival in town, we wandered around until we found our lunch spot (but of course it's all about the food and wine as you can probably tell thus far from this report) Outside of Borgobuio Ristorante, there is an autographed picture of Jack Nicholson and probably some other celebrities as well. Upon peeking in the restaurant you will see some magnificent decorated tables, artwork and something about this place just beckons you in.
We were greeted by Pier, a handsome, charming Italian. He reminds me of the character Big from Sex and the City. He proceeded to charm every single one of us. While we ordered a vast amount of food, lots of chianina beef, pastas, fresh green salads and wine. Pier kept us all entertained throughout rubbing then kissing my Dad's head, feeding my mother-in-law, chiding my sister's boyfriend about not being married, grasping my chin and singing opera. It was quite the show...this restaurant is his stage. We are enjoying every minute of it. The food is very good, although we are a little disappointed in the desserts.
We are making a habit out of 3 hour meals. We take many pictures as Pier hugged, kissed and sang to us. When we leave we all receive more hugs and kisses. Afterwards we continue to wander through this majestic town, enjoying the shops even while it rained.
We have decided based on the limited amount of wine we have tried that we prefer Montepulciano wines to Montalcino wines and they are more reasonably priced.
End of Day 11
We left at 8:45 towards our destination of Montepulciano. We stopped beforehand at the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. Quite awesome and definitely worth a stop. The church itself is ornate yet understated, frescoes line the walls everywhere. Unfortunately we once again missed the Gregorian chants.
Upon arrival in town, we wandered around until we found our lunch spot (but of course it's all about the food and wine as you can probably tell thus far from this report) Outside of Borgobuio Ristorante, there is an autographed picture of Jack Nicholson and probably some other celebrities as well. Upon peeking in the restaurant you will see some magnificent decorated tables, artwork and something about this place just beckons you in.
We were greeted by Pier, a handsome, charming Italian. He reminds me of the character Big from Sex and the City. He proceeded to charm every single one of us. While we ordered a vast amount of food, lots of chianina beef, pastas, fresh green salads and wine. Pier kept us all entertained throughout rubbing then kissing my Dad's head, feeding my mother-in-law, chiding my sister's boyfriend about not being married, grasping my chin and singing opera. It was quite the show...this restaurant is his stage. We are enjoying every minute of it. The food is very good, although we are a little disappointed in the desserts.
We are making a habit out of 3 hour meals. We take many pictures as Pier hugged, kissed and sang to us. When we leave we all receive more hugs and kisses. Afterwards we continue to wander through this majestic town, enjoying the shops even while it rained.
We have decided based on the limited amount of wine we have tried that we prefer Montepulciano wines to Montalcino wines and they are more reasonably priced.
End of Day 11
Jul 14th, 2009, 05:33 PM
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Day 12 - Pisa and Lucca
We left for Pisa around 8:45. The GPS system was not working correctly and it took us over 2 hours to get there. It is quite a large city and in my opinion not very appealing. We parked in an industrial area to walk in to see the Leaning Tower, Baptistry and Duomo/Field of Miracles. They looked great from the outside though very crowded. After a few photographs we decide to leave for Lucca so we could enjoy our lunch there.
Unfortunately what should have been 13 km away took us 1 hour 45 minutes. Once you miss a turn you frequently have to wait 15 minutes to turn around and somehow we were lost. I will admit by the time we arrived I was a bit cranky! We were looking for a specific restaurant (which I have failed to name in my journal) and many times we were tempted to stop but I preserved.
We finally found the restaurant and ordered tomato bruschetta, bean and farro soup (try this if you can it is very delicious), fried chicken and artichokes, polenta & rabbit, grilled vegetables, pasta etc. It was a good restaurant and restored my mood.
Due to a friend connection, we were told to visit their relative at Pinelli. A super tasty pastry shop!! Absolutely delicious. They treated us to coffees, eclairs, cream puffs and a variety of delicious goodies. They spent some time visiting with us even though they were incredibly busy and work 7 days a week.
We decided to leave shortly thereafter and it was another 2 hours drive home. Personally other than the pastry shop, I preferred most of the other smaller towns in Tuscany. I was not impressed by Lucca though I know many people love it there. I am sure there will be those that disagree but perhaps I had heard so much complimentary reports I held it to a high standard. Luckily my MIL had prepared a delicious dinner for us upon our return and once again my good mood was restored
End of Day 12
We left for Pisa around 8:45. The GPS system was not working correctly and it took us over 2 hours to get there. It is quite a large city and in my opinion not very appealing. We parked in an industrial area to walk in to see the Leaning Tower, Baptistry and Duomo/Field of Miracles. They looked great from the outside though very crowded. After a few photographs we decide to leave for Lucca so we could enjoy our lunch there.
Unfortunately what should have been 13 km away took us 1 hour 45 minutes. Once you miss a turn you frequently have to wait 15 minutes to turn around and somehow we were lost. I will admit by the time we arrived I was a bit cranky! We were looking for a specific restaurant (which I have failed to name in my journal) and many times we were tempted to stop but I preserved.
We finally found the restaurant and ordered tomato bruschetta, bean and farro soup (try this if you can it is very delicious), fried chicken and artichokes, polenta & rabbit, grilled vegetables, pasta etc. It was a good restaurant and restored my mood.
Due to a friend connection, we were told to visit their relative at Pinelli. A super tasty pastry shop!! Absolutely delicious. They treated us to coffees, eclairs, cream puffs and a variety of delicious goodies. They spent some time visiting with us even though they were incredibly busy and work 7 days a week.
We decided to leave shortly thereafter and it was another 2 hours drive home. Personally other than the pastry shop, I preferred most of the other smaller towns in Tuscany. I was not impressed by Lucca though I know many people love it there. I am sure there will be those that disagree but perhaps I had heard so much complimentary reports I held it to a high standard. Luckily my MIL had prepared a delicious dinner for us upon our return and once again my good mood was restored
End of Day 12
Jul 14th, 2009, 08:31 PM
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Day 13 - San Gimignano
Considering we are so close, we have spent relatively little time here. We leave early to explore our last day. I love this town! We arrived before the crowds and went through the church, fortress, etc. We checked out restaurants for dinner and several shops.
Before we leave we purchase 2 large pizzas to take home. A delicious salad has been prepared and we are in preparation mode for Rome.
We iron, pack, clean etc. and leave for our dinner reservation at Dulcinsinfundo in San Gimignano. We are getting a new perspective at night. The crowds have dissipated again.
The restaurant is good and overlooks a view from the outside. The owners, husband and wife were friendly. The husband (Kevin Klein lookalike) is especially friendly he has spent time in Santa Barbara. We order 2 appetizers. One with spinach, cheese and light puff pastry. The other with swiss chard, goat cheese and sun dried tomato. Several of us try the veggie/bean soup that is good as a meal in itself. We have steak w/ a beard (unusual green), vael, pork meatballs, chicken. We also order a white Vernazia and Montepulciano Nobile. All in all a very enjoyable meal and fun to be out at night. The owner has a villa that he rents for over 7,000 euros (12 people) per week. Outside of our price range!
For desert, we have tried to recreate our Vin Santo/Biscotti combination since Ristorante Leonetto but have been unsuccessful in finding a good Vin Santo.
End of Day 13
Considering we are so close, we have spent relatively little time here. We leave early to explore our last day. I love this town! We arrived before the crowds and went through the church, fortress, etc. We checked out restaurants for dinner and several shops.
Before we leave we purchase 2 large pizzas to take home. A delicious salad has been prepared and we are in preparation mode for Rome.
We iron, pack, clean etc. and leave for our dinner reservation at Dulcinsinfundo in San Gimignano. We are getting a new perspective at night. The crowds have dissipated again.
The restaurant is good and overlooks a view from the outside. The owners, husband and wife were friendly. The husband (Kevin Klein lookalike) is especially friendly he has spent time in Santa Barbara. We order 2 appetizers. One with spinach, cheese and light puff pastry. The other with swiss chard, goat cheese and sun dried tomato. Several of us try the veggie/bean soup that is good as a meal in itself. We have steak w/ a beard (unusual green), vael, pork meatballs, chicken. We also order a white Vernazia and Montepulciano Nobile. All in all a very enjoyable meal and fun to be out at night. The owner has a villa that he rents for over 7,000 euros (12 people) per week. Outside of our price range!
For desert, we have tried to recreate our Vin Santo/Biscotti combination since Ristorante Leonetto but have been unsuccessful in finding a good Vin Santo.
End of Day 13
Jul 16th, 2009, 04:08 PM
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Day 14 - Rome
Arose early to clean, finish packing and say goodbye. We headed to Florence by 9:15. We didn't even get lost! Once we dropped off the car we had a few blocks to walk to the train station. Our train did not leave until 12:52 so we had to wait several hours. There is very little sitting in the station so I sat atop of the luggage.
The train went through some pretty territory and it took about 1 and 1/2 hours to Rome. We were fortunate enough to find cabs immediately from the train station. When we arrived at the Hotel Scalinata our rooms were ready. We had a cocktail on the outdoor patio and went to Mignanelli 24 for early dinner. The usual pizza, pasta, salad and vino. The shrimp/gorganzola pizza was the hit.
We decided to go to the market and then to Trevi Fountain. So beautiful...it is truly awesome. I threw the customary coin in to ensure our return to Rome. It started to rain but we enjoyed some gelato anyway. I am truly in love with this city!
The Hotel Scalinata di Spagna is in a good location, right at the top of the Spanish Steps. It was a bit dated but clean. The guys that managed the front desk were overall very nice, especially Fabio. However, in my opinion the hotel is outrageously expensive for what you get. My Dad paid what amounted to about $6000 US for 3 rooms/4 nights. I still to this day can't believe the expense involved.
End of Day 14
Day 15 - Rome; exploration + private tour w/ Giulia Bernardini
After the rather boring breakfast provided at the hotel, we are out the door at 9:30 to explore. We want to get the Roma Passes at the tourist information booth. It was fairly quiet presumably because it is Sunday?
First we went to the Pantheon which is the oldest preserved building and very pretty inside. We heard a little bit of the choir singing before the general public was kicked out for services. We next found the Piazza Navona. The Bernini fountain was being restored but we still managed a few pictures. We ended up going into two churches, St. Agnes in Agony and Sant' Agostino. Like all historical churches they are very beautiful.
We went to Fiori d'Campi but there were no markets going on. In our meanderings we found a restaurant that had been recommended on the forum. It was called Pizza Re. We had a entree salad and pizza. It was quite good. I had always wondered if I could ever get tired of pizza/pasta since it is among my favorite food. The answer is YES!
After freshening up we meet Giulia Bernardini. We have hired her to give us 2 half day private tours. She has been recommended on the forum. Her e-mail address is [email protected]. She lives part-time in Boulder, Colorado and part-time in Rome.
We immediately love her personality. She gives us a few minutes of history on Rome and we spend time wandering through Capitoline Hill, the Forum & Colosseum. All of the sites are much more impressive in person. She even has several visuals that show the ruins and what the buildings would have looked like in their time. All together we have walked nearly 8 hours for the day.
One of the guys at the hotel recommends a seafood restaurant nearby. It is my father's birthday and we wish to celebrate. However it is a terrible disappointment. The food, service and cost involved are so disappointing I don't even write the details nor the name of the restaurant which is too bad because I would like to warn others about staying away. I wondered if the guy had received a kick-back from the restaurant.
Day 16- Rome; 2nd tour w/ Giulia Bernardini
We overslept so didn't have much time to wander as we have a Vatican tour at 2pm. We walk to the Piazza Popolo and Borghese Gardens and return on Via Veneto (very trendy, pricey, business area). We have time for a quick bite at Leonardo.
We take cabs to the Vatican with Giulia. The museum itself is interesting but most impressive is the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica. We linger as long as possible to enjoy these spots. We are so glad that we have been connected to Giulia. We obtain so much more information with her guidance. I would highly recommend getting in touch with her if this appeals to you. Wonderful Fabio has recommended a restaurant (which once again I have failed to write down)...but we had impeccable service. The best were fried zucchini flowers and artichoke hearts. We walk (sprint) home in a thunder storm. That is my favorite part of the evening...there are people trying to sell umbrellas but I am enjoying the feeling of Roman rain!
Day 17 - Rome
When we awake we realize that it is completely storming!! So we decide to take a cab to the Capitoline Museum. We can better understand what we see as a result of working with Giulia. We decide to go to the cafe first and enjoy some beverages and the view. Next we take our time viewing the exhibits. While the rest of the family cabs back to the hotel, DH & I walk back in the rain. We see the Trevi Fountain again and I love it just as much. We have some cool pictures of all the tourists standing around with their multi-colored umbrellas.
We find Il Chianti Restaurant on our way back and it has a wonderful ambiance. We have porcini mushroom bruchetta, salad, farro soup and zucchini flower lasagne.
It is our last night with the group. Half are headed to Sicily and the rest heading home. We enjoy our last dinner at Osterria Margutta. My favorite part is the location on a very charming brick lined street. Very festive place. My sister has been here 12 years prior. The outstanding dish of the night is mushroom risotto. Afterwards we walk back in the rain of course!
Day 18 - Rome
Before we leave, I have been told that Giolitti is the best gelato in all of Rome. So we head out in the pouring rain to find my breakfast! I order amaretto and pistachio and realizing this will be my last gelato for some time savor every bit of it.
Also, in reading tourbooks I realize that I have thrown the prerequisite coin at the Trevi Fountain in wrong (facing forward). In order to return to Rome I must do it again. I turn around (facing away from the fountain) and throw a coin over each shoulder for good measure. Giggling all the while.
We head back to say our goodbyes. We are staying tonight at the Rome Airport Hilton as our flight leaves very early (we are to check in at 4:30 am) We are fortunate that our cab-drive takes us through the most magnificent sites of the city so we are saying our goodbyes in more way than one.
End of Day 18
Thanks for reading. I have enjoyed re-living the once in a lifetime trip with my family.
Arose early to clean, finish packing and say goodbye. We headed to Florence by 9:15. We didn't even get lost! Once we dropped off the car we had a few blocks to walk to the train station. Our train did not leave until 12:52 so we had to wait several hours. There is very little sitting in the station so I sat atop of the luggage.
The train went through some pretty territory and it took about 1 and 1/2 hours to Rome. We were fortunate enough to find cabs immediately from the train station. When we arrived at the Hotel Scalinata our rooms were ready. We had a cocktail on the outdoor patio and went to Mignanelli 24 for early dinner. The usual pizza, pasta, salad and vino. The shrimp/gorganzola pizza was the hit.
We decided to go to the market and then to Trevi Fountain. So beautiful...it is truly awesome. I threw the customary coin in to ensure our return to Rome. It started to rain but we enjoyed some gelato anyway. I am truly in love with this city!
The Hotel Scalinata di Spagna is in a good location, right at the top of the Spanish Steps. It was a bit dated but clean. The guys that managed the front desk were overall very nice, especially Fabio. However, in my opinion the hotel is outrageously expensive for what you get. My Dad paid what amounted to about $6000 US for 3 rooms/4 nights. I still to this day can't believe the expense involved.
End of Day 14
Day 15 - Rome; exploration + private tour w/ Giulia Bernardini
After the rather boring breakfast provided at the hotel, we are out the door at 9:30 to explore. We want to get the Roma Passes at the tourist information booth. It was fairly quiet presumably because it is Sunday?
First we went to the Pantheon which is the oldest preserved building and very pretty inside. We heard a little bit of the choir singing before the general public was kicked out for services. We next found the Piazza Navona. The Bernini fountain was being restored but we still managed a few pictures. We ended up going into two churches, St. Agnes in Agony and Sant' Agostino. Like all historical churches they are very beautiful.
We went to Fiori d'Campi but there were no markets going on. In our meanderings we found a restaurant that had been recommended on the forum. It was called Pizza Re. We had a entree salad and pizza. It was quite good. I had always wondered if I could ever get tired of pizza/pasta since it is among my favorite food. The answer is YES!
After freshening up we meet Giulia Bernardini. We have hired her to give us 2 half day private tours. She has been recommended on the forum. Her e-mail address is [email protected]. She lives part-time in Boulder, Colorado and part-time in Rome.
We immediately love her personality. She gives us a few minutes of history on Rome and we spend time wandering through Capitoline Hill, the Forum & Colosseum. All of the sites are much more impressive in person. She even has several visuals that show the ruins and what the buildings would have looked like in their time. All together we have walked nearly 8 hours for the day.
One of the guys at the hotel recommends a seafood restaurant nearby. It is my father's birthday and we wish to celebrate. However it is a terrible disappointment. The food, service and cost involved are so disappointing I don't even write the details nor the name of the restaurant which is too bad because I would like to warn others about staying away. I wondered if the guy had received a kick-back from the restaurant.
Day 16- Rome; 2nd tour w/ Giulia Bernardini
We overslept so didn't have much time to wander as we have a Vatican tour at 2pm. We walk to the Piazza Popolo and Borghese Gardens and return on Via Veneto (very trendy, pricey, business area). We have time for a quick bite at Leonardo.
We take cabs to the Vatican with Giulia. The museum itself is interesting but most impressive is the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica. We linger as long as possible to enjoy these spots. We are so glad that we have been connected to Giulia. We obtain so much more information with her guidance. I would highly recommend getting in touch with her if this appeals to you. Wonderful Fabio has recommended a restaurant (which once again I have failed to write down)...but we had impeccable service. The best were fried zucchini flowers and artichoke hearts. We walk (sprint) home in a thunder storm. That is my favorite part of the evening...there are people trying to sell umbrellas but I am enjoying the feeling of Roman rain!
Day 17 - Rome
When we awake we realize that it is completely storming!! So we decide to take a cab to the Capitoline Museum. We can better understand what we see as a result of working with Giulia. We decide to go to the cafe first and enjoy some beverages and the view. Next we take our time viewing the exhibits. While the rest of the family cabs back to the hotel, DH & I walk back in the rain. We see the Trevi Fountain again and I love it just as much. We have some cool pictures of all the tourists standing around with their multi-colored umbrellas.
We find Il Chianti Restaurant on our way back and it has a wonderful ambiance. We have porcini mushroom bruchetta, salad, farro soup and zucchini flower lasagne.
It is our last night with the group. Half are headed to Sicily and the rest heading home. We enjoy our last dinner at Osterria Margutta. My favorite part is the location on a very charming brick lined street. Very festive place. My sister has been here 12 years prior. The outstanding dish of the night is mushroom risotto. Afterwards we walk back in the rain of course!
Day 18 - Rome
Before we leave, I have been told that Giolitti is the best gelato in all of Rome. So we head out in the pouring rain to find my breakfast! I order amaretto and pistachio and realizing this will be my last gelato for some time savor every bit of it.
Also, in reading tourbooks I realize that I have thrown the prerequisite coin at the Trevi Fountain in wrong (facing forward). In order to return to Rome I must do it again. I turn around (facing away from the fountain) and throw a coin over each shoulder for good measure. Giggling all the while.
We head back to say our goodbyes. We are staying tonight at the Rome Airport Hilton as our flight leaves very early (we are to check in at 4:30 am) We are fortunate that our cab-drive takes us through the most magnificent sites of the city so we are saying our goodbyes in more way than one.
End of Day 18
Thanks for reading. I have enjoyed re-living the once in a lifetime trip with my family.
