Trip Report: Ger’s Mad Dash Across Brittany
Aug 24th, 2006, 10:17 AM
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I just came across your report, Ger, and am so enjoying it. You are very gifted with your descriptive prose! I DO hope you'll finish this when you have the time. I had planned a trip to Brittany for last May, but had to cancel. Now I can't wait to go, and am beginning to plan all over again.
Aug 24th, 2006, 05:02 PM
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Sue, I started out with the best of intentions 
My excuse is that I have just come back from a trip to Galicia and am planning another one for September.
I will definately add another installment this evening. Glad you are enjoying it.
regards Ger
My excuse is that I have just come back from a trip to Galicia and am planning another one for September.I will definately add another installment this evening. Glad you are enjoying it.
regards Ger
Aug 25th, 2006, 09:14 AM
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Lovely, lovely! Both the pictures and the descriptions. I'm copying part of this for my trip planning for Brittany. Before my computer crashed in May, I had bookmarked a hotel out near Pointe du Raz for about 1/3 the price. A chat buddy had stayed there. However, my husband may be willing to make the R&C one in St. Anne a piece de resistance on our trip. I assume one can make short jaunts to Quimper, to Locronan and to Pointe du Raz from there?
BTW when we went through Sarlat in the Dordogne, I recognized some of the buildings from your lovely pictures taken the spring of 2004. Keep it up!
BTW when we went through Sarlat in the Dordogne, I recognized some of the buildings from your lovely pictures taken the spring of 2004. Keep it up!
Aug 25th, 2006, 04:06 PM
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Journey to Pointe de Raz
I won’t even try to pretend there was any sense to drive to my next port of call, because there is no logic whatsoever to justify why I drove South-West, when my final destination was North-East. I just really wanted to see Pointe du Raz!
One of the best things about traveling alone is that one can do as one pleases, does not have to rationalize or make excuses and, at the end of the day, one only has oneself to blame for bad choices or celebrate good choices.
Anyway, from Locronan, I took the D7 toward Douanernanez and branched off on the D765 toward Pont Croix and Pointe du Rez. Once I cleared Douanernanez, I was again in the heart of the Brittany countryside.
The scenery was exquisite: Peaceful and pastoral on this Sunday morning: The sky was a azure blue, with only a few lazy clouds, the trees were at the zenith of their luxuriant splendor and the silence was deafening. This drive was a tonic for the soul. I journeyed down a few side-roads to visit tiny, sleepy villages and pondered if I would be a different person had I been reared in a tiny, sleepy village rather than a city. Then, as it was a Sunday, I thought of all the great blessings in my life and felt thankful that my life had lead me here on this glorious day. Isn’t that what a holiday is all about?
I found myself on the outskirts of Pont Croix and could not resist a quick visit. I pulled into the car park in the town centre and set about a very brief exploration of the town and was so glad I did. A few old men sat about on benches, thrown out by the Missus undoubtedly for making a nuisance of themselves and waiting for the summons home for lunch. St. Croix is another granite town, the stone washed fresh with the morning rain. There is a fine Gothic church, daring back to the 13th century and a picturesque square surrounding it.
Here are the pictures:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...dozfc&Ux=0
I branched off onto the D43 toward Pointe du Raz and was surprised and irritated to find myself behind a two “Recreational Vehicles” (RVs) navigating their way in the same direction. HELLO! Here was I, gazelle-like in my darling Passat, stuck behind two lard-arsed elephants plodding along at 30 Km/hour!
I was so disappointed when I finally arrive at Pointe du Raz, to discover that it was almost a caravan park. Well, I was here, what could I do? I took my ticket from the parking attendant, parked the car and headed up to the touristy collection of shops and restaurants. I was hungry, disappointed and irritated and decided that a snack and a glass of wine would cool my temper. I chose to lunch at one of several anonymous establishments and felt much better after a bowl of mussels and a glass of wine.
I wandered down to the tourist office, picked up a map and started my walk. It was glorious, despite the fact there were quite a few other visitors. This is definitely not the place to visit on a weekend if you seek solitude.
However, the scenery was gorgeous, better than I had imagined. There such an exciting palate of colours! The gold and green of gorse and the shocking purple of heather, tough hardy and beautiful plants, they thrive in the most inclement weather, just like the Celts. The aquamarine of the sea, fringed with white lace as it dashes against the jagged grey rocks, the sharp line of the horizon and the graduated blue of the sky. I spent longer than I had planned here, partly because it was so lovely and partly because I mistakenly took the wrong path, following two Germans in hiking boots deep into the undergrowth. NEVER follow Germans in hiking boots!
Here are the pictures:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...flmha&Ux=0
In hindsight, it really was a very stupid itinerary and although I enjoyed the drive and the views, I probably would have been much better off to drive north along the Baie de Douarnenez. Oh well, that’s the price I pay for poor planning and stubbornness!
I won’t even try to pretend there was any sense to drive to my next port of call, because there is no logic whatsoever to justify why I drove South-West, when my final destination was North-East. I just really wanted to see Pointe du Raz!
One of the best things about traveling alone is that one can do as one pleases, does not have to rationalize or make excuses and, at the end of the day, one only has oneself to blame for bad choices or celebrate good choices.
Anyway, from Locronan, I took the D7 toward Douanernanez and branched off on the D765 toward Pont Croix and Pointe du Rez. Once I cleared Douanernanez, I was again in the heart of the Brittany countryside.
The scenery was exquisite: Peaceful and pastoral on this Sunday morning: The sky was a azure blue, with only a few lazy clouds, the trees were at the zenith of their luxuriant splendor and the silence was deafening. This drive was a tonic for the soul. I journeyed down a few side-roads to visit tiny, sleepy villages and pondered if I would be a different person had I been reared in a tiny, sleepy village rather than a city. Then, as it was a Sunday, I thought of all the great blessings in my life and felt thankful that my life had lead me here on this glorious day. Isn’t that what a holiday is all about?
I found myself on the outskirts of Pont Croix and could not resist a quick visit. I pulled into the car park in the town centre and set about a very brief exploration of the town and was so glad I did. A few old men sat about on benches, thrown out by the Missus undoubtedly for making a nuisance of themselves and waiting for the summons home for lunch. St. Croix is another granite town, the stone washed fresh with the morning rain. There is a fine Gothic church, daring back to the 13th century and a picturesque square surrounding it.
Here are the pictures:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...dozfc&Ux=0
I branched off onto the D43 toward Pointe du Raz and was surprised and irritated to find myself behind a two “Recreational Vehicles” (RVs) navigating their way in the same direction. HELLO! Here was I, gazelle-like in my darling Passat, stuck behind two lard-arsed elephants plodding along at 30 Km/hour!
I was so disappointed when I finally arrive at Pointe du Raz, to discover that it was almost a caravan park. Well, I was here, what could I do? I took my ticket from the parking attendant, parked the car and headed up to the touristy collection of shops and restaurants. I was hungry, disappointed and irritated and decided that a snack and a glass of wine would cool my temper. I chose to lunch at one of several anonymous establishments and felt much better after a bowl of mussels and a glass of wine.
I wandered down to the tourist office, picked up a map and started my walk. It was glorious, despite the fact there were quite a few other visitors. This is definitely not the place to visit on a weekend if you seek solitude.
However, the scenery was gorgeous, better than I had imagined. There such an exciting palate of colours! The gold and green of gorse and the shocking purple of heather, tough hardy and beautiful plants, they thrive in the most inclement weather, just like the Celts. The aquamarine of the sea, fringed with white lace as it dashes against the jagged grey rocks, the sharp line of the horizon and the graduated blue of the sky. I spent longer than I had planned here, partly because it was so lovely and partly because I mistakenly took the wrong path, following two Germans in hiking boots deep into the undergrowth. NEVER follow Germans in hiking boots!
Here are the pictures:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...flmha&Ux=0
In hindsight, it really was a very stupid itinerary and although I enjoyed the drive and the views, I probably would have been much better off to drive north along the Baie de Douarnenez. Oh well, that’s the price I pay for poor planning and stubbornness!
Aug 25th, 2006, 06:57 PM
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Journey to the hotel, near St. Malo
I booked an hotel just outside St. Malo, the Tirel Guérin, from the Chateaux & Hotels de France website ( an old favorite, that has never let me down). Here is the website: http://www.chateauxethotels.com/publ...ueil/index.php
Now here is where the MAD DASH comes in: The hotel was over a 3.5 hour drive from Pointe du Raz. Talk about bad planning – if I try this again, you have permission to smack me!!! Of course, in a Passat, the journey is far shorter, if you are willing to break all the speed limits, not that Ger would ever contemplate such a thing
I retraced my steps to Douarnenez and headed toward the D785, which took me through the “D’Amorique” and the “Parc Natural”, which was a truly enjoyable drive. Sorry, no photos, as I had my foot to the floor to get to the hotel in time for dinner.
Once I hit Morlaix, I joined up with the N12 toward St. Malo. Although this was highway driving, it is still a very scenic drive – a very LONG scenic drive! However, I was listening to my audible book, “Gentlemen and Players” (what a GREAT book!) so I rationalized that I could have been ensconced at my hotel reading this book, so I was not losing out at all. Well, one has to rationalize stupid decisions, doesn’t one?
I reached my hotel at about 7pm, checked-in, showered and changed for dinner. The Hotel Tirel Guérin is an odd bird.
http://www.chateauxethotels.com/publ...nts.php?id=360
It shows signs of having originally been a road-side motel (VERY close to a road, but not a lot of traffic), recently renovated in a “Suburban retro-90s” manner (Hunter Green carpets, wood veneer, matching patterned polyester bedspreads and curtains), not a style I was particularly fond of at the time, when I was decorating in the “Italian Minimalist” style; it has a pool, gym and tennis courts. I could not say, even at the wildest stretch, that it has “character”, but it is very comfortable and clean (think Hilton, but much cleaner and newer) and a perfect location for what I eventually planned to do the next day. I had a very large double deluxe room with very large bathroom for less than 100 Euros in high season.
The restaurant décor was OTT (Over The Top) Louis XV meets Pepto-Bismol, but the food was very good and not too expensive. I was the only foreigner that night, but was given an English menu, so they obviously get enough English tourists to warrant the translation.
I perused the menu with my usual Coup de Champagne and started with the “Foie Gras de Canard, Quenelles de Figues” and chose the Filet de Bœuf Vin Rouge, Darphin de Pomme de Terre aux Échalotes confites” for the main course. I ordered a bottle of good Bordeaux, drank some at dinner and brought the remainder back to my room. The food was excellent, but did not hit the perfection of the restaurant at Hotel de la Plage. Service was good, but not top-notch.
I was over-tired after my frenetic driving schedule and could not sleep, so I brought the remainders of the wine onto the verandah and considered my plan for the next day. Originally, I had planned to visit Mont St. Michel, but given the expected tourists hoards in July, decided against it. I wanted the sea and no people and I wanted to see St. Malo. I had a long drive to Nantes airport to catch an afternoon flight, so the most I could manage was a drive toward Cancale, looping around the coast and ending up in St. Malo for a short visit before heading to Nantes airport.
Hotel evaluation: The room was comfortable, but not charming, the restaurant food was great, the service excellent, but I don’t think it would ever make my “Top Ten List”. There is nothing WRONG with this hotel, its just that the difference between it and the R&C experience at Hotel de la Plage was so drastic, as it should be for the huge differential in price, makes it difficult for me to appreciate this hotel in isolation.
Tip: If you are considering a R&C experience on your trips, make sure it is at the END of your trip, otherwise, you will be disappointed with every experience AFTER an R&C.
After planning my journey, I fell into bed and slept soundly until 7am the next morning.
I booked an hotel just outside St. Malo, the Tirel Guérin, from the Chateaux & Hotels de France website ( an old favorite, that has never let me down). Here is the website: http://www.chateauxethotels.com/publ...ueil/index.php
Now here is where the MAD DASH comes in: The hotel was over a 3.5 hour drive from Pointe du Raz. Talk about bad planning – if I try this again, you have permission to smack me!!! Of course, in a Passat, the journey is far shorter, if you are willing to break all the speed limits, not that Ger would ever contemplate such a thing
I retraced my steps to Douarnenez and headed toward the D785, which took me through the “D’Amorique” and the “Parc Natural”, which was a truly enjoyable drive. Sorry, no photos, as I had my foot to the floor to get to the hotel in time for dinner.
Once I hit Morlaix, I joined up with the N12 toward St. Malo. Although this was highway driving, it is still a very scenic drive – a very LONG scenic drive! However, I was listening to my audible book, “Gentlemen and Players” (what a GREAT book!) so I rationalized that I could have been ensconced at my hotel reading this book, so I was not losing out at all. Well, one has to rationalize stupid decisions, doesn’t one?
I reached my hotel at about 7pm, checked-in, showered and changed for dinner. The Hotel Tirel Guérin is an odd bird.
http://www.chateauxethotels.com/publ...nts.php?id=360
It shows signs of having originally been a road-side motel (VERY close to a road, but not a lot of traffic), recently renovated in a “Suburban retro-90s” manner (Hunter Green carpets, wood veneer, matching patterned polyester bedspreads and curtains), not a style I was particularly fond of at the time, when I was decorating in the “Italian Minimalist” style; it has a pool, gym and tennis courts. I could not say, even at the wildest stretch, that it has “character”, but it is very comfortable and clean (think Hilton, but much cleaner and newer) and a perfect location for what I eventually planned to do the next day. I had a very large double deluxe room with very large bathroom for less than 100 Euros in high season.
The restaurant décor was OTT (Over The Top) Louis XV meets Pepto-Bismol, but the food was very good and not too expensive. I was the only foreigner that night, but was given an English menu, so they obviously get enough English tourists to warrant the translation.
I perused the menu with my usual Coup de Champagne and started with the “Foie Gras de Canard, Quenelles de Figues” and chose the Filet de Bœuf Vin Rouge, Darphin de Pomme de Terre aux Échalotes confites” for the main course. I ordered a bottle of good Bordeaux, drank some at dinner and brought the remainder back to my room. The food was excellent, but did not hit the perfection of the restaurant at Hotel de la Plage. Service was good, but not top-notch.
I was over-tired after my frenetic driving schedule and could not sleep, so I brought the remainders of the wine onto the verandah and considered my plan for the next day. Originally, I had planned to visit Mont St. Michel, but given the expected tourists hoards in July, decided against it. I wanted the sea and no people and I wanted to see St. Malo. I had a long drive to Nantes airport to catch an afternoon flight, so the most I could manage was a drive toward Cancale, looping around the coast and ending up in St. Malo for a short visit before heading to Nantes airport.
Hotel evaluation: The room was comfortable, but not charming, the restaurant food was great, the service excellent, but I don’t think it would ever make my “Top Ten List”. There is nothing WRONG with this hotel, its just that the difference between it and the R&C experience at Hotel de la Plage was so drastic, as it should be for the huge differential in price, makes it difficult for me to appreciate this hotel in isolation.
Tip: If you are considering a R&C experience on your trips, make sure it is at the END of your trip, otherwise, you will be disappointed with every experience AFTER an R&C.
After planning my journey, I fell into bed and slept soundly until 7am the next morning.
Aug 25th, 2006, 07:08 PM
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I LOVE this! "Louis XV meets Pepto-Bismol"! Ger, you have more than a mere flair, you are truly gifted. And YOU not speed?? Uh...we ARE from the same gene pool, are we not? (My way of saying "you know what I'd do.."...)
BC
BC
Aug 25th, 2006, 07:45 PM
#28
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A Journey to St. Malo
I woke early and checked out, eager to start my journey. I took the D355 toward Cancale. It was another beautiful clear day and early morning mist was evaporating from the fields and there was only myself and the occasional farmer on the road. The clear blue sky promised a good day.
I made my way toward Cancale and then took the D201 around the headland to St. Malo. The drive was exquisite and exactly what I wanted. I had sea and sand and cliffs and waves and no other tourists to bother me. I was completely happy and content on my own, surrounded by spectacular scenery.
Here are the pictures:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...32woo&Ux=0
I woke early and checked out, eager to start my journey. I took the D355 toward Cancale. It was another beautiful clear day and early morning mist was evaporating from the fields and there was only myself and the occasional farmer on the road. The clear blue sky promised a good day.
I made my way toward Cancale and then took the D201 around the headland to St. Malo. The drive was exquisite and exactly what I wanted. I had sea and sand and cliffs and waves and no other tourists to bother me. I was completely happy and content on my own, surrounded by spectacular scenery.
Here are the pictures:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...32woo&Ux=0
Aug 26th, 2006, 10:25 AM
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Ger, I stayed up late looking at your beautiful pictures last night. Coincidentally, I had JUST read in a book about the footpath between St. malo and Cancale. Gorgeous scenes. It looked like there might have been a path in the earlier shots too. The scenes with the hanging flowers have made me rethink whether I really want my trip at the end of September or in the spring. I was assuming May would be rainier. Do you think so?
Aug 28th, 2006, 05:15 PM
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St Malo
After my glorious scenic drive, I hit the traffic into St. Malo – boring, ugly and necessary I really liked the town, despite the fact that it was almost bursting at the seams tourists.
St. Malo has an interesting history or saints and pirates and explorers. It has a connection with the Irish monastic Saint Brendan the Navigator (who “discovered” America in the 5th Century) as Brendan baptized St. Malo, a Welshman, and both founded the settlement in the 5th century.
Quoting Wikipedia: In later centuries it became notorious as the home of a fierce breed of pirate-mariners, who were never quite under anyone's control but their own; for 4 years from 1590, Saint-Malo even declared itself to be an independent republic, taking up the motto "not French, not Breton, but Malois". The Corsairs of Saint-Malo not only forced English ships passing up the Channel to pay tribute, but also brought wealth from further afield. Jacques Cartier, who sailed the St Lawrence river and visited the sites of Quebec City and Montréal - and is thus credited as the discoverer of Canada, lived in and sailed from Saint-Malo, as did the first colonists to settle the Falklands – hence the islands' Argentinean name, Las Malvinas, from the French Malouins.
In 1944, this beautiful town was almost leveled by the Germans, but was rebuilt in the original sytle. This means there is a very strange quality about the town – period building as they would have been only 50 years after they were built!
Before starting my tour, I headed to the Place Chaeaubriand – large, gorgeous and lively main square just behind the Porte St. Vincent, and had a coffee and crepe.
I started my explorations with a walking tour of the walls, which afford excellent views over the town and the surrounding coastline. It was another beautiful sunny day, so it was a real pleasure to stroll along the ramparts. In the town itself, the very tall granite buildings were originally constructed in the 18th century and they block out much of the light. The town was fairly teeming with visitors, mostly English, as this is one of the most important ferry stops from the UK. I couldn’t stay too long, as I had to rush south for to Nantes airport for my flight to the UK. Check out the pictures.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...owcch&Ux=0
As I mentioned before, Nantes is definitely not the best airport to use as a base for this trip and I had a 2.5 hour trip. Beware of signposting as you enter Nantes. The airport is on the other side of town and the signage leaves a lot to be desired!
Well, that’s it! I really enjoyed the entire weekend, despite the lunatic schedule. I would liked to have had a few days more, particularly to explore the north-west, but I know that I will be back there very soon. I strongly recommend this area to travelers. Those of you who love driving in the Irish countryside will enjoy Brittany in equal measure. While it is very popular with English tourists, it is definitely not crowded and some areas are as deserted as parts of rural Ireland. It has a rich, unique history, beautiful towns, stunning scenery and great food. I am looking forward to seeing more and its on MY top ten list of places to which I will always want to return.
Regards Ger
After my glorious scenic drive, I hit the traffic into St. Malo – boring, ugly and necessary I really liked the town, despite the fact that it was almost bursting at the seams tourists.
St. Malo has an interesting history or saints and pirates and explorers. It has a connection with the Irish monastic Saint Brendan the Navigator (who “discovered” America in the 5th Century) as Brendan baptized St. Malo, a Welshman, and both founded the settlement in the 5th century.
Quoting Wikipedia: In later centuries it became notorious as the home of a fierce breed of pirate-mariners, who were never quite under anyone's control but their own; for 4 years from 1590, Saint-Malo even declared itself to be an independent republic, taking up the motto "not French, not Breton, but Malois". The Corsairs of Saint-Malo not only forced English ships passing up the Channel to pay tribute, but also brought wealth from further afield. Jacques Cartier, who sailed the St Lawrence river and visited the sites of Quebec City and Montréal - and is thus credited as the discoverer of Canada, lived in and sailed from Saint-Malo, as did the first colonists to settle the Falklands – hence the islands' Argentinean name, Las Malvinas, from the French Malouins.
In 1944, this beautiful town was almost leveled by the Germans, but was rebuilt in the original sytle. This means there is a very strange quality about the town – period building as they would have been only 50 years after they were built!
Before starting my tour, I headed to the Place Chaeaubriand – large, gorgeous and lively main square just behind the Porte St. Vincent, and had a coffee and crepe.
I started my explorations with a walking tour of the walls, which afford excellent views over the town and the surrounding coastline. It was another beautiful sunny day, so it was a real pleasure to stroll along the ramparts. In the town itself, the very tall granite buildings were originally constructed in the 18th century and they block out much of the light. The town was fairly teeming with visitors, mostly English, as this is one of the most important ferry stops from the UK. I couldn’t stay too long, as I had to rush south for to Nantes airport for my flight to the UK. Check out the pictures.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...owcch&Ux=0
As I mentioned before, Nantes is definitely not the best airport to use as a base for this trip and I had a 2.5 hour trip. Beware of signposting as you enter Nantes. The airport is on the other side of town and the signage leaves a lot to be desired!
Well, that’s it! I really enjoyed the entire weekend, despite the lunatic schedule. I would liked to have had a few days more, particularly to explore the north-west, but I know that I will be back there very soon. I strongly recommend this area to travelers. Those of you who love driving in the Irish countryside will enjoy Brittany in equal measure. While it is very popular with English tourists, it is definitely not crowded and some areas are as deserted as parts of rural Ireland. It has a rich, unique history, beautiful towns, stunning scenery and great food. I am looking forward to seeing more and its on MY top ten list of places to which I will always want to return.
Regards Ger
Sep 2nd, 2006, 06:40 PM
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Ger, thanks again for your wonderful report - as some have already mentioned, you really are a gifted writer. And I loved your photos. I'm sure I'll keep coming back to this as I plan my trip to Brittany. I agree with you about saving the "R&C" hotel for the end - the splurge hotels (and food!)are usually worth it.
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