Trip report: French chateau hotel and a bit of Belgium and the Netherlands
Aug 10th, 2011, 09:32 AM
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Trip report: French chateau hotel and a bit of Belgium and the Netherlands
My Dutch husband and I were in the Netherlands for a few weeks (mid-May to early June) visiting his relatives. We normally don't do much touristy things while we're there but we did manage to eat well and take a couple of side trips to Belgium (Antwerp) and France (Loire Valley).
Here are some brief reviews of our experiences:
<b><u>LOIRE VALLEY</u></b>
We drove from "home" in the south of the Netherlands to the Loire Valley and spent a few days exploring the chateaux in the region.
<b>Chateau Hotel</b>:
<b>Domaine de la Tortinière</b>
http://www.tortiniere.com/UK.asp
An absolutely stunning place to stay! The view was unbelievably gorgeous, the property was secluded, and the service was top notch. The area was so peaceful. It wouldn't be hard to spend weeks there just doing nothing and getting away from the hectic pace of everyday life.
We had a suite in the tower of the chateau. It included a salon (living room area) with fireplace, a bedroom in the turret of the tower, and a bathroom with double sinks, a tub, and a shower. A couple of other nice touches in the suite included bathrobes and a bottle of a local aperitif. The ceiling of the bedroom was interesting to look at since the walls started curving and narrowing -- that was where the tip of the turret was in the tower.
Looking out the window, our suite overlooked the hotel's outdoor terrace and further down was the swimming pool. The view beyond the property was of the surrounding countryside and the Indre River. In the distance was another chateau hotel (Chateau d'Artigny, which also looked very beautiful) and the tiny town of Montbazon.
There were some walking trails around the grounds that were lovely. Again, it was so tranquil there. The location is not that far away from Tours but you feel like you're so far from civilization.
The restaurant served excellent food. We had one dinner there as well as breakfast every morning. Dinner was pricey but worth it. It was peak season for white asparagus so (to our delight) many of the dishes included it. Our appetizers, in particular, were standouts: white asparagus spears with slices of duck and bits of hazelnuts, all drizzled with balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Not only did it taste great, the presentation was fantastic, too. The asparagus spears were criss-crossed with the duck slices to form a lattice pattern on the plate, kind of like a basketweave. We would've eaten there again for dinner, but decided it would be nicer to try some other local restaurants instead (see reviews of those restaurants below in the Loire Valley Food section of this report).
Breakfast each morning was buffet. There was a large selection of cheeses, breads, meats, pastries, fruits, and drinks. The breads and pastries were baked fresh every morning and were my favorites. One variety was a thick loaf that was sweet and was topped with chunky sugar crystals. It was almost a cake rather than bread. The croissants were perfect -- flaky on the outside, soft and super-buttery on the inside. I also loved the apple juice they served. It was so delicious -- freshly-squeezed of course, and the color and consistency made it look more like pear juice. It's not the processed, clear cider-looking apple juice that I'm used to seeing at home.
We would definitely stay at Domaine de la Tortinière again. It's very expensive, but you're treated like royalty.
More on the Loire Valley to come ...
Here are some brief reviews of our experiences:
<b><u>LOIRE VALLEY</u></b>
We drove from "home" in the south of the Netherlands to the Loire Valley and spent a few days exploring the chateaux in the region.
<b>Chateau Hotel</b>:
<b>Domaine de la Tortinière</b>
http://www.tortiniere.com/UK.asp
An absolutely stunning place to stay! The view was unbelievably gorgeous, the property was secluded, and the service was top notch. The area was so peaceful. It wouldn't be hard to spend weeks there just doing nothing and getting away from the hectic pace of everyday life.
We had a suite in the tower of the chateau. It included a salon (living room area) with fireplace, a bedroom in the turret of the tower, and a bathroom with double sinks, a tub, and a shower. A couple of other nice touches in the suite included bathrobes and a bottle of a local aperitif. The ceiling of the bedroom was interesting to look at since the walls started curving and narrowing -- that was where the tip of the turret was in the tower.
Looking out the window, our suite overlooked the hotel's outdoor terrace and further down was the swimming pool. The view beyond the property was of the surrounding countryside and the Indre River. In the distance was another chateau hotel (Chateau d'Artigny, which also looked very beautiful) and the tiny town of Montbazon.
There were some walking trails around the grounds that were lovely. Again, it was so tranquil there. The location is not that far away from Tours but you feel like you're so far from civilization.
The restaurant served excellent food. We had one dinner there as well as breakfast every morning. Dinner was pricey but worth it. It was peak season for white asparagus so (to our delight) many of the dishes included it. Our appetizers, in particular, were standouts: white asparagus spears with slices of duck and bits of hazelnuts, all drizzled with balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Not only did it taste great, the presentation was fantastic, too. The asparagus spears were criss-crossed with the duck slices to form a lattice pattern on the plate, kind of like a basketweave. We would've eaten there again for dinner, but decided it would be nicer to try some other local restaurants instead (see reviews of those restaurants below in the Loire Valley Food section of this report).
Breakfast each morning was buffet. There was a large selection of cheeses, breads, meats, pastries, fruits, and drinks. The breads and pastries were baked fresh every morning and were my favorites. One variety was a thick loaf that was sweet and was topped with chunky sugar crystals. It was almost a cake rather than bread. The croissants were perfect -- flaky on the outside, soft and super-buttery on the inside. I also loved the apple juice they served. It was so delicious -- freshly-squeezed of course, and the color and consistency made it look more like pear juice. It's not the processed, clear cider-looking apple juice that I'm used to seeing at home.
We would definitely stay at Domaine de la Tortinière again. It's very expensive, but you're treated like royalty.
More on the Loire Valley to come ...
Aug 11th, 2011, 10:21 AM
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<b><u>Chateaux</u></b>:
<b>Chateau de Villandry</b>
http://www.chateauvillandry.fr/
You have the option of touring either the chateau plus the gardens, or the gardens only. We chose to see both the chateau and gardens. The gardens were breathtakingly beautiful. I'm not the type who's seriously into gardening (I just appreciate pretty flowers, especially in spring), but I was so impressed with all the different gardens. I especially liked the Love Garden with its hedges laid out in formal patterns and how everything was pruned and trimmed so meticulously. In the Water Garden, we stopped to sit at a bench for a while and soak in the beauty of our surroundings. The weather was sunny and not too warm/not too chilly, so we could've easily sat there for hours on end.
Although the chateau is famous for its gardens, we were glad to see the inside of the chateau as well. One word to describe our reaction when seeing the ceiling in the Oriental Drawing Room: WOW! 3,600 separate pieces of wood make up this stunning ceiling.
Seeing a panoramic view of the gardens from the top of the chateau was also a must-do.
<b>Chateau de Chambord</b>
http://www.chambord.org/Chambord-en-...n-Accueil.html
The largest of the chateaux in the Loire Valley, we didn't even come close to seeing all the rooms and everything inside. The size was impressive but as a result, the chateau didn't emit any warmth. It was meant to be a summer hunting lodge which helps explain why. Many of the rooms were empty so that also contributed to the lack of warm; only parts of the chateau were furnished/decorated, like the chambers of Francois I and Louis XIV.
It was still worth visiting just to see it. The spires and turrets that made up the roof were interesting and the double spiral staircase is famous.
<b><u>Food/Restaurants</u></b>:
<b>Biscuiterie de Chambord</b>
http://www.biscuiteriedechambord.fr/
This shop is next to Chateau de Chambord (in between the chateau and the parking lot there's a cluster of places to eat snacks and to shop for souvenirs). You can sample tons of their products. My favorite was Le Crakou which is a crunchy, flat cookie with chopped hazelnuts and caramel. They were very delicate but I bought a bag anyway and didn't care if they broke into pieces later during transport since they tasted really delicious.
Driving to/from Chambord, we noticed they also have a location in nearby Maslives (I believe it was the factory direct sales outlet).
<b>La Cassolette restaurant</b>
http://www.restaurantlacassolette.fr/
A casual, wonderful little restaurant recommended by our hotel. It's a short drive from the hotel to the restaurant in Montbazon and if you blink, you'll miss it. It's at the foot of the Donjon du Faucon Noir.
I ordered a duck appetizer and for the main course, pork cassolette. I tried a first bite of the pork on its own (without pouring its sauce on it) and thought it was average tasting; the meat was tender (not juicy but not dry either) but the flavor was nothing special. Then I tried it with the sauce and it was FABULOUS! It was very rich and creamy. It's the type of sauce that’s so good you could almost drink it by itself! My hubby had fish and said his dish was very, very good.
Ordering the wine was a funny experience. We had been chitchatting with the couple sitting at the table next to us. My hubby wanted to sample a local wine so he asked the owner for a Vouvray. The couple next to us suggested Chinon. For the next few minutes, they and the owner were debating over which one would be better for him to drink! The owner ended up serving a Chinon that my hubby said was excellent.
<b>Auberge de la Courtille</b>
13 Avenue de la Gare
37250 Montbazon, France
02 47 26 28 26
This restaurant was also on the casual side. The food and service were good (although not as good as La Cassolette); dishes were simple, local/traditional French recipes.
<b>Le Bout de la Rue</b>
19 Rue de la Rôtisserie
37000 Tours, France
We had lunch here and sat at a table outside for some people watching while we ate. I ordered coq au vin and my hubby had salad Niçoise. Both dishes were good and the portions were generous. Our waitress was extremely nice, friendly, and helpful.
------
Overall, we enjoyed our time in the Loire Valley. It was just the right balance of sightseeing and relaxing. The food was generally very good and the stay at the Domaine de la Tortinière chateau hotel was such a unique and wonderful experience.
<b>Chateau de Villandry</b>
http://www.chateauvillandry.fr/
You have the option of touring either the chateau plus the gardens, or the gardens only. We chose to see both the chateau and gardens. The gardens were breathtakingly beautiful. I'm not the type who's seriously into gardening (I just appreciate pretty flowers, especially in spring), but I was so impressed with all the different gardens. I especially liked the Love Garden with its hedges laid out in formal patterns and how everything was pruned and trimmed so meticulously. In the Water Garden, we stopped to sit at a bench for a while and soak in the beauty of our surroundings. The weather was sunny and not too warm/not too chilly, so we could've easily sat there for hours on end.
Although the chateau is famous for its gardens, we were glad to see the inside of the chateau as well. One word to describe our reaction when seeing the ceiling in the Oriental Drawing Room: WOW! 3,600 separate pieces of wood make up this stunning ceiling.
Seeing a panoramic view of the gardens from the top of the chateau was also a must-do.
<b>Chateau de Chambord</b>
http://www.chambord.org/Chambord-en-...n-Accueil.html
The largest of the chateaux in the Loire Valley, we didn't even come close to seeing all the rooms and everything inside. The size was impressive but as a result, the chateau didn't emit any warmth. It was meant to be a summer hunting lodge which helps explain why. Many of the rooms were empty so that also contributed to the lack of warm; only parts of the chateau were furnished/decorated, like the chambers of Francois I and Louis XIV.
It was still worth visiting just to see it. The spires and turrets that made up the roof were interesting and the double spiral staircase is famous.
<b><u>Food/Restaurants</u></b>:
<b>Biscuiterie de Chambord</b>
http://www.biscuiteriedechambord.fr/
This shop is next to Chateau de Chambord (in between the chateau and the parking lot there's a cluster of places to eat snacks and to shop for souvenirs). You can sample tons of their products. My favorite was Le Crakou which is a crunchy, flat cookie with chopped hazelnuts and caramel. They were very delicate but I bought a bag anyway and didn't care if they broke into pieces later during transport since they tasted really delicious.
Driving to/from Chambord, we noticed they also have a location in nearby Maslives (I believe it was the factory direct sales outlet).
<b>La Cassolette restaurant</b>
http://www.restaurantlacassolette.fr/
A casual, wonderful little restaurant recommended by our hotel. It's a short drive from the hotel to the restaurant in Montbazon and if you blink, you'll miss it. It's at the foot of the Donjon du Faucon Noir.
I ordered a duck appetizer and for the main course, pork cassolette. I tried a first bite of the pork on its own (without pouring its sauce on it) and thought it was average tasting; the meat was tender (not juicy but not dry either) but the flavor was nothing special. Then I tried it with the sauce and it was FABULOUS! It was very rich and creamy. It's the type of sauce that’s so good you could almost drink it by itself! My hubby had fish and said his dish was very, very good.
Ordering the wine was a funny experience. We had been chitchatting with the couple sitting at the table next to us. My hubby wanted to sample a local wine so he asked the owner for a Vouvray. The couple next to us suggested Chinon. For the next few minutes, they and the owner were debating over which one would be better for him to drink! The owner ended up serving a Chinon that my hubby said was excellent.
<b>Auberge de la Courtille</b>
13 Avenue de la Gare
37250 Montbazon, France
02 47 26 28 26
This restaurant was also on the casual side. The food and service were good (although not as good as La Cassolette); dishes were simple, local/traditional French recipes.
<b>Le Bout de la Rue</b>
19 Rue de la Rôtisserie
37000 Tours, France
We had lunch here and sat at a table outside for some people watching while we ate. I ordered coq au vin and my hubby had salad Niçoise. Both dishes were good and the portions were generous. Our waitress was extremely nice, friendly, and helpful.
------
Overall, we enjoyed our time in the Loire Valley. It was just the right balance of sightseeing and relaxing. The food was generally very good and the stay at the Domaine de la Tortinière chateau hotel was such a unique and wonderful experience.
Aug 22nd, 2011, 10:59 AM
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<b><u>ANTWERP</u></b>:
On a separate side trip, we went to Antwerp with family. The two of us have been there many times before so we don't do the normal tourist sightseeing activities (I just like going there to eat and shop; it's my favorite shopping city).
This trip was just to hang out with family. My sister-in-law made all the arrangements for everyone's accommodations, all the restaurants, and our schedule in general. Here are our impressions of this part of our trip:
<b><u>Hotel</u></b>:
<b>Radisson Blu Astrid</b>
http://www.radissonblu.com/astridhotel-antwerp
The hotel is very modern-looking, and the rooms were spacious and clean. Located across from the Centraal Station and the Zoo, it was about a 10-15 minute walk to the heart of all the shopping and restaurants. Breakfast was very good -- they had a very large selection of food (they said there's 120 breakfast items that they serve in the buffet) including many different types of breads and pastries, various fruit juices, hot items like sausages, ham, eggs, bacon, potatoes (hash browns), cereals, cold sliced meats, fresh fruits, and more. A large area of the restaurant was taken up by the display of food. The view from the restaurant was pleasant. The windows were from floor to ceiling and we overlooked the square in front of the zoo and train station.
My only complaint in service was that I called for extra towels for our room and they never came.
On a side note, a famous Dutch singer, Marco Borsato, was staying at our hotel, too. We saw him hanging out in the lobby and my hubby's relatives were excited to have their picture taken with him. I had no idea who he was and had never heard of him
<b><u>Restaurants</u></b>:
<b>Horta</b>
http://www.grandcafehorta.be/
The food and service were fine, and the restaurant itself was attractive. Floor-to-ceiling windows made the place very open and bright. Great atmosphere and modern décor. There was also outdoor terrace seating. The place was very popular, as it was crowded inside and outside even though we were eating there at an odd hour.
<b>The Bistro</b>
http://www.thebistro.be/
Another popular restaurant with outdoor seating, located along the pedestrian link between the Meir and Schuttershofstraat. The menu was extensive and had some good seafood dishes in particular. A couple of us wanted to order vol au vent filled with chicken but it was so popular that it was already sold out that night.
<b><u>Activities</u></b>:
<b>Zoo</b>
http://www.zooantwerpen.be/
On Sunday since most things were closed and we were with our nieces and nephews, we all decided to go to the zoo. At first, I wasn't that thrilled about going there since I've been to plenty of zoos, but it actually turned out to be nice and pleasant. It was much larger than I expected and there's even an aquarium within the zoo. We spent more than half a day there seeing everything from Siberian tigers and polar bears to panthers and sharks. Also, the snack stands inside the zoo sold waffles which were pretty decent!
<b>Shopping</b>:
A trip to Antwerp wouldn't be complete without shopping along Schuttershofstraat. I indulged at my usual stops like <b>Anne Fontaine</b> and <b>Comptoir des Cotonniers</b>. If my hubby and I were in Antwerp without his relatives, I would’ve spent much more time shopping
To be cont'd ...
On a separate side trip, we went to Antwerp with family. The two of us have been there many times before so we don't do the normal tourist sightseeing activities (I just like going there to eat and shop; it's my favorite shopping city).
This trip was just to hang out with family. My sister-in-law made all the arrangements for everyone's accommodations, all the restaurants, and our schedule in general. Here are our impressions of this part of our trip:
<b><u>Hotel</u></b>:
<b>Radisson Blu Astrid</b>
http://www.radissonblu.com/astridhotel-antwerp
The hotel is very modern-looking, and the rooms were spacious and clean. Located across from the Centraal Station and the Zoo, it was about a 10-15 minute walk to the heart of all the shopping and restaurants. Breakfast was very good -- they had a very large selection of food (they said there's 120 breakfast items that they serve in the buffet) including many different types of breads and pastries, various fruit juices, hot items like sausages, ham, eggs, bacon, potatoes (hash browns), cereals, cold sliced meats, fresh fruits, and more. A large area of the restaurant was taken up by the display of food. The view from the restaurant was pleasant. The windows were from floor to ceiling and we overlooked the square in front of the zoo and train station.
My only complaint in service was that I called for extra towels for our room and they never came.
On a side note, a famous Dutch singer, Marco Borsato, was staying at our hotel, too. We saw him hanging out in the lobby and my hubby's relatives were excited to have their picture taken with him. I had no idea who he was and had never heard of him
<b><u>Restaurants</u></b>:
<b>Horta</b>
http://www.grandcafehorta.be/
The food and service were fine, and the restaurant itself was attractive. Floor-to-ceiling windows made the place very open and bright. Great atmosphere and modern décor. There was also outdoor terrace seating. The place was very popular, as it was crowded inside and outside even though we were eating there at an odd hour.
<b>The Bistro</b>
http://www.thebistro.be/
Another popular restaurant with outdoor seating, located along the pedestrian link between the Meir and Schuttershofstraat. The menu was extensive and had some good seafood dishes in particular. A couple of us wanted to order vol au vent filled with chicken but it was so popular that it was already sold out that night.
<b><u>Activities</u></b>:
<b>Zoo</b>
http://www.zooantwerpen.be/
On Sunday since most things were closed and we were with our nieces and nephews, we all decided to go to the zoo. At first, I wasn't that thrilled about going there since I've been to plenty of zoos, but it actually turned out to be nice and pleasant. It was much larger than I expected and there's even an aquarium within the zoo. We spent more than half a day there seeing everything from Siberian tigers and polar bears to panthers and sharks. Also, the snack stands inside the zoo sold waffles which were pretty decent!
<b>Shopping</b>:
A trip to Antwerp wouldn't be complete without shopping along Schuttershofstraat. I indulged at my usual stops like <b>Anne Fontaine</b> and <b>Comptoir des Cotonniers</b>. If my hubby and I were in Antwerp without his relatives, I would’ve spent much more time shopping
To be cont'd ...
Aug 23rd, 2011, 01:00 PM
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Like I said earlier, we mainly ate, shopped, and roamed around rather than went around sightseeing specific things. To me Antwerp isn't really touristy; it's just a great place to hang out and enjoy.
However, for the benefit of <b>Leely2</b> and <b>Vttraveler</b>, I’ll highlight some things we've seen on past trips:
The <b>Groenplaats</b> is lined with cafes and stores, and is a nice place for people watching. Between here and the <b>Grote Markt</b>, there are also many souvenir stores selling items such as lace, chocolates, postcards, and T-shirts.
If you're interested in architecture, at the Grote Markt you can see the <b>Guild houses</b> and the town hall itself. The <b>Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal</b> (Cathedral of Our Lady) is nearby, as well. The <b>Centraal Station</b> is a beautiful domed building with a lovely interior decorated with marble. Even walking along the <b>Meir</b>, there are several historic buildings in sight.
Let me know if you want more info or have more specific questions.
Final part of my trip report coming soon …
However, for the benefit of <b>Leely2</b> and <b>Vttraveler</b>, I’ll highlight some things we've seen on past trips:
The <b>Groenplaats</b> is lined with cafes and stores, and is a nice place for people watching. Between here and the <b>Grote Markt</b>, there are also many souvenir stores selling items such as lace, chocolates, postcards, and T-shirts.
If you're interested in architecture, at the Grote Markt you can see the <b>Guild houses</b> and the town hall itself. The <b>Onze Lieve Vrouwe Kathedraal</b> (Cathedral of Our Lady) is nearby, as well. The <b>Centraal Station</b> is a beautiful domed building with a lovely interior decorated with marble. Even walking along the <b>Meir</b>, there are several historic buildings in sight.
Let me know if you want more info or have more specific questions.
Final part of my trip report coming soon …
Aug 23rd, 2011, 03:40 PM
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thanks for the extra details about Antwerp recommended sights. I am still trying to decide whether we will stay there overnight. It seems there is plenty to do in a two-day stay --but we have free lodging with friends in Brussels.
Aug 25th, 2011, 09:47 AM
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The final part of my report is just a short restaurant review when we were back at "home" in the Netherlands after the side trips. If anyone's interested in info about Maastricht and the surrounding area, let me know and I can elaborate on that.
<b>Restaurant One</b>
http://www.restaurantone.nl/
This place was awarded a Michelin star late last year and is fantastic. We had eaten here a few years ago before it was given a star and absolutely loved it back then, too. We kept saying they should have a star and now they do, so we were really happy.
The service is everything you would expect from a starred restaurant. The place was intimate, warm, and classy without being stuffy. We told the chef what our likes and dislikes are, and each course came to us very personalized. Just like in France, we were thrilled that white asparagus was in season. A couple of the courses featured it (Limburg white asparagus is quite famous in the country, and Germans even drive from just across the border to buy from roadside stands/vendors). There wasn't any one particular dish that stood out -- EVERYTHING was outstanding and left our mouths watering for more.
My hubby was thrilled with the wine selections, too. For one of the courses, our server recommended a Vouvray from the Loire Valley, which my hubby definitely wanted to try. We were laughing that he was finally able to try a Vouvray (since he wasn't able to earlier in the trip at La Cassolette restaurant in France)!
We've decided that every trip to the Netherlands requires us to save a night to eat at Restaurant One.
-----------
All-in-all, it was another wonderful trip that mixed time to see family and time for some side trips. Can't wait until next time!
<b>Restaurant One</b>
http://www.restaurantone.nl/
This place was awarded a Michelin star late last year and is fantastic. We had eaten here a few years ago before it was given a star and absolutely loved it back then, too. We kept saying they should have a star and now they do, so we were really happy.
The service is everything you would expect from a starred restaurant. The place was intimate, warm, and classy without being stuffy. We told the chef what our likes and dislikes are, and each course came to us very personalized. Just like in France, we were thrilled that white asparagus was in season. A couple of the courses featured it (Limburg white asparagus is quite famous in the country, and Germans even drive from just across the border to buy from roadside stands/vendors). There wasn't any one particular dish that stood out -- EVERYTHING was outstanding and left our mouths watering for more.
My hubby was thrilled with the wine selections, too. For one of the courses, our server recommended a Vouvray from the Loire Valley, which my hubby definitely wanted to try. We were laughing that he was finally able to try a Vouvray (since he wasn't able to earlier in the trip at La Cassolette restaurant in France)!
We've decided that every trip to the Netherlands requires us to save a night to eat at Restaurant One.
-----------
All-in-all, it was another wonderful trip that mixed time to see family and time for some side trips. Can't wait until next time!
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