Trip Report - First Time to Venice, Florence, Lucca and London
Dec 21st, 2005, 01:18 AM
#21
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Uma,
I am captivated by your trip reports. You've even had me in tears with you.
We are off to Italy next year and I am so looking forward to it after reading your report.
Thankyou for taking the time to share it with us.
I am captivated by your trip reports. You've even had me in tears with you.
We are off to Italy next year and I am so looking forward to it after reading your report.
Thankyou for taking the time to share it with us.
Dec 21st, 2005, 04:00 AM
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I am enjoying your report, Uma. I heartily agree with you about loving Venice and Florence each for it's own reasons, but Venice simply being more magical. My husband, on the other hand, prefers Florence for it's art. 
We had La Giostra planned for my husband's birthday when we were there, but didn't make it. Now I realize we will HAVE to go back to eat there.
We had La Giostra planned for my husband's birthday when we were there, but didn't make it. Now I realize we will HAVE to go back to eat there.
Dec 21st, 2005, 06:53 AM
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Thanks, all. It's been great to relive our trip as I write this report. Bonniejean, I'm not much of a shopper at home, but wanted to bring back gifts for our families. Now, of course, I wish I'd bought more stuff! More of the lovely paper products from Il Papiro (though I did discover there are shops in New York, Atlanta and Florida that sell their wares). Hubby protested that he didn't need a belt or wallet from the Leather School, but wish I'd bought one for him, anyway. More of the wonderful soaps from Officina Profumo near Santa Maria Novella (go there just to see the inside of the building, a converted church). And I completely forgot to buy olive oils to bring home. So if you see something you like, definitely grab it. Angelblue, I'm sure you will find Italy as captivating as I did.
Barb, we loved Lucca. Though our visit there was only a tease - an afternoon and night. Working on my report.
Barb, we loved Lucca. Though our visit there was only a tease - an afternoon and night. Working on my report.
Dec 21st, 2005, 08:43 AM
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Hi again,
Maybe I missed it in an earlier post, but where exactly is the leather school. We missed it the last time we were in Florence, and I'd like to go next June. What's it like?
Thanks again, Uma. Great info here...
Maybe I missed it in an earlier post, but where exactly is the leather school. We missed it the last time we were in Florence, and I'd like to go next June. What's it like?
Thanks again, Uma. Great info here...
Dec 21st, 2005, 10:35 AM
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dina4, We entered the Leather School through the church of Santa Croce. I believe there is also an entrance away from the church. They sell all sorts of quality leather goods, and you can watch the artisans at work. Leather bookmarks were probably the cheapest items. I bought several as gifts for work friends. There were nice belts, wallets for men and women, beautiful
(and expensive!) handbags. Worth a look. I'm assuming you haven't been to the church of Santa Croce, either. That is definitely worth a visit, and was uncrowded when we went. We found the audio tour informative. Wish I were going back with you!
(and expensive!) handbags. Worth a look. I'm assuming you haven't been to the church of Santa Croce, either. That is definitely worth a visit, and was uncrowded when we went. We found the audio tour informative. Wish I were going back with you!
Dec 21st, 2005, 11:07 AM
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Auss, Other, more seasoned Italy travellers will know how crowded/uncrowded it will be in Jan. It was very easy to reserve the Doge's Palace Secret Itinerary Tour in Venice by phone, and an entrance time to the Basilica there online, and entrance times to the Uffizi and Accademia in Florence by phone. You aren't charged ahead of time. You could always have your hotel make all reservations just to be safe - even if you won't need them.
Dec 21st, 2005, 06:14 PM
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Part Three: Lucca, briefly
The train from Florence to Viarreggio
stops in Lucca. It was 2nd class, good overhead space for our luggage but less room between seats than the Eurostar 1st class. Great scenery along the way; all the towns and all the green.
Where we stayed: Palazzo Alexander, with a nice location inside the walls, near San Michele in Foro. I had read good reviews about this hotel. We found Massimiliano - call him Max - very gracious, very solicitous - a ball of energy. Breakfast was again included in our package, and here it was served in a lovely room off to the side of the front desk. There was fruit, cereal, yogurt, cold meats, cheeses, breads,rolls, pastries and beverages.
Guest rooms are named for Puccini operas. Ours was one of his lesser known works (so little known I can't recall the name).
It was a standard room, quite narrow. Nicely decorated, though a bulky air conditioner unit near the bed detracted a bit from the ambience. The blanket on the bed was thin and worn; towels in the dimly lit bathroom were thin and sparse. I could appreciate the room's charm; hubby hated it. At night, preparing for bed, we heard a man talking quite loudly in what we thought was the hallway. He turned out to be in the room next to ours. We didn't hear him for long; he must have fallen asleep quickly. I was startled awake the next morning by the loudest snoring I have ever heard. Our friend from next door! Snoring, and then snorting and hacking as he must have awakened to begin his morning ritual. It was as though we were in the same room, and I was a bit embarrassed; I felt I was intruding. There are larger rooms and suites at Palazzo Alexander,
and hopefully thicker walls between them. Fine for a night; I wouldn't have wanted to stay longer there.
What we saw and did: Our time in Lucca was limited - arriving in the afternoon and leaving early the next morning. We saw the Duomo, San Frediano, San Michele in Foro, Piazza del Anfiteatro Romano (Roman Amphitheater), the statue of Puccini (his home was covered with scaffolding). We walked on the walls.
Where and what we ate: Our dinner was at Buca di SantAntonio. Had asked the hotel to make a reservation for us there weeks in advance. Max praised it as the best restaurant in Lucca. We sat in a festive room hung with pots, pans and musical instruments that was once a stall for horses. The food was excellent. Complimentary prosecco while we waited for our table. Then leek and ricotta pie with chickpea sauce, onion soup, a grilled filet and wild boar stew with polenta. For dessert, a dark chocolate mousse and baked fruits with chestnut ice cream. And then a huge glass jar filled with cookies set on the table by our waiter.
I had looked forward to tasting the buccellato (anise-flavored bread, a local treat) at Pasticceria Taddeucci. For unknown reasons, the shop was closed the day we were there.
Snapshots and thoughts on Lucca: Puccini's statue, seated, looking out over his square while my mind played arias from Madama Butterfly, La Boheme, and my mother's favorite, Turandot;passing under the archway to the Roman Amphitheater with its wonderful old architecture; our leisurely walk on the walls, upon other footsteps left hundreds of years before; a crafts market and a bookstore we stumbled into; the muted colors of the buildings; a young man sitting on the ground beside San Frediano, playing guitar.
The streets were a bit wider here. There were far less people. It was quieter here. Unrushed. A respite of sorts from bustling Florence. We enjoyed our very brief introduction to this lovely town, and wished we'd had another day to explore.
Our final stop: London, for a fast-paced two nights.
The train from Florence to Viarreggio
stops in Lucca. It was 2nd class, good overhead space for our luggage but less room between seats than the Eurostar 1st class. Great scenery along the way; all the towns and all the green.
Where we stayed: Palazzo Alexander, with a nice location inside the walls, near San Michele in Foro. I had read good reviews about this hotel. We found Massimiliano - call him Max - very gracious, very solicitous - a ball of energy. Breakfast was again included in our package, and here it was served in a lovely room off to the side of the front desk. There was fruit, cereal, yogurt, cold meats, cheeses, breads,rolls, pastries and beverages.
Guest rooms are named for Puccini operas. Ours was one of his lesser known works (so little known I can't recall the name).
It was a standard room, quite narrow. Nicely decorated, though a bulky air conditioner unit near the bed detracted a bit from the ambience. The blanket on the bed was thin and worn; towels in the dimly lit bathroom were thin and sparse. I could appreciate the room's charm; hubby hated it. At night, preparing for bed, we heard a man talking quite loudly in what we thought was the hallway. He turned out to be in the room next to ours. We didn't hear him for long; he must have fallen asleep quickly. I was startled awake the next morning by the loudest snoring I have ever heard. Our friend from next door! Snoring, and then snorting and hacking as he must have awakened to begin his morning ritual. It was as though we were in the same room, and I was a bit embarrassed; I felt I was intruding. There are larger rooms and suites at Palazzo Alexander,
and hopefully thicker walls between them. Fine for a night; I wouldn't have wanted to stay longer there.
What we saw and did: Our time in Lucca was limited - arriving in the afternoon and leaving early the next morning. We saw the Duomo, San Frediano, San Michele in Foro, Piazza del Anfiteatro Romano (Roman Amphitheater), the statue of Puccini (his home was covered with scaffolding). We walked on the walls.
Where and what we ate: Our dinner was at Buca di SantAntonio. Had asked the hotel to make a reservation for us there weeks in advance. Max praised it as the best restaurant in Lucca. We sat in a festive room hung with pots, pans and musical instruments that was once a stall for horses. The food was excellent. Complimentary prosecco while we waited for our table. Then leek and ricotta pie with chickpea sauce, onion soup, a grilled filet and wild boar stew with polenta. For dessert, a dark chocolate mousse and baked fruits with chestnut ice cream. And then a huge glass jar filled with cookies set on the table by our waiter.
I had looked forward to tasting the buccellato (anise-flavored bread, a local treat) at Pasticceria Taddeucci. For unknown reasons, the shop was closed the day we were there.
Snapshots and thoughts on Lucca: Puccini's statue, seated, looking out over his square while my mind played arias from Madama Butterfly, La Boheme, and my mother's favorite, Turandot;passing under the archway to the Roman Amphitheater with its wonderful old architecture; our leisurely walk on the walls, upon other footsteps left hundreds of years before; a crafts market and a bookstore we stumbled into; the muted colors of the buildings; a young man sitting on the ground beside San Frediano, playing guitar.
The streets were a bit wider here. There were far less people. It was quieter here. Unrushed. A respite of sorts from bustling Florence. We enjoyed our very brief introduction to this lovely town, and wished we'd had another day to explore.
Our final stop: London, for a fast-paced two nights.
Dec 21st, 2005, 10:22 PM
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Uma - Great report!!! I was in Florence in October and loved it!!! Il Duomo was THE ONE thing in all of Italy I wanted to see the most. It did not disappoint me. I went by it at least once every day while I was there.
I am sorry that you didn't get to see the inside, it is truely amazing!!! The view from the top of the city and countryside is breathtaking!!! And to see the frescos of the dome up close, WOW!!!
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
Tom
I am sorry that you didn't get to see the inside, it is truely amazing!!! The view from the top of the city and countryside is breathtaking!!! And to see the frescos of the dome up close, WOW!!!
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
Tom
Dec 23rd, 2005, 07:15 AM
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Part Four - London
OUr frequent flier miles had us flying into and out of London, so we decided to tack on an extra day there at the end of the trip. We exited the plane at Gatwick to a dozen drivers holding signs, but none with our name. I had reserved with justairports.com to pick us up. Borrowed a cell phone to call the company after half an hour's wait, and our driver arrived shortly after. A mix up, apparently. Our rate was cheaper than a regular taxi would have been. I would use them again, but confirm closer to the date.
Where we stayed: Our travel agent had suggested The Goring Hotel, small and family run for generations, close to Buckingham Palace and Victoria Station. And quintessentially British.
Our room was good sized and very inviting; the bathroom was large, with dark woods, crimson colored marble and a wonderful heated towel rack. We had been upgraded to a garden view. A complimentary copy of a hard cover book about the hotel and its various guests greeted us upon arrival, as did our "roommate" for our stay - a stuffed sheep resting at the foot of our bed, the size of a medium dog. Sheep inhabit every guestroom, and sit before the fireplace in the hotel lounge, adding a touch of whimsy.
The staff at The Goring was truly topnotch, and its concierge, Ernest, was a gem. He dispatched a bellman to accompany us the couple of blocks to a currency exchange to convert our leftover euros.
As in Italy, breakfast was included in our package, and ordered off the menu in the hotel's subtle and lovely dining room. A delicate herb and cheese omelette, porridge, fruit salad, croissants and tea between us.
Of all our hotels, The Goring was our favorite.
What we saw and did: Our time, as mentioned, was limited - a late afternoon and evening, and then one full day and night. We spent our first afternoon settling in, exploring our neighborhood, seeing Buckingham Palace, having afternoon tea in front of the fire with the sheep at the hotel, picking up our tickets for "Billy Elliot." We skipped the changing of the guard the next day for a hop on/hop off bus tour with The Big Bus Company, departing from Victoria Station. The tours give a good overview of the sights. Our tickets were good for 2 or 3 days, and included a complimentary Thames cruise and several themed walks. We saw St. Paul's, Westminster Abbey, Piccadilly Circus, Big Ben and Parliament, Hyde Park, the London Eye, Tower Bridge and Tower of London, the museums. We hopped off at the Tower of London, where we spent a few hours. Took the free Yeoman Warder tour - informative and amusing; saw the Crown Jewels, of course. Didn't stop at any other sights; hubby had had enough walking. In the evening we saw "Billy Elliot - The Musical" at the Victoria Theater, and enjoyed it tremendously. A woman seated next to us, whose godson was in the cast, remarked that Michael Jackson and his entourage had commandeered the theater that day for the matinee performance.
We stopped off at a pub after the performance.
What we ate: Eating wasn't a focus in London: we had had so much delicious food in Italy. And with the rain off and on, the damp, chilly air and feeling weary now at the end, we opted for convenience and had both of our evening meals in the hotel's dining room. We shared a lobster omelette with avocado salad and roasted Devon John Dory the first night, and quiche and some sort of fish for our pre-theater meal. Food and service were excellent both nights.
Snapshots and thoughts: All the double decker buses, red slashes against the gray sky;in a blur from atop our sightseeing bus - brooding Big Ben and Parliament, the remnants of an ancient Roman wall, wedged between modern buildings; the architecture of St. Paul's and Westminster Abbey; boats on the dark Thames; the medieval and massive Tower of London with its colorful and colorfully dressed Beefeaters, Traitor's Gate and the ravens; a solitary guard at Buckingham Palace (where was his mate?;all the people, traffic,sounds; the thrill of live theater; the bigness after Italy.
We knew that our day and a half wouldn't do justice to London, and so we didn't try. We plan to return.
Final thoughts: Next time, we'll pack lighter. Next time, we'll save for business class. ATM's were plentiful, quick and easy to use. Knowing how to say hello, goodbye, how are you, how much does something cost, please and thank you
OUr frequent flier miles had us flying into and out of London, so we decided to tack on an extra day there at the end of the trip. We exited the plane at Gatwick to a dozen drivers holding signs, but none with our name. I had reserved with justairports.com to pick us up. Borrowed a cell phone to call the company after half an hour's wait, and our driver arrived shortly after. A mix up, apparently. Our rate was cheaper than a regular taxi would have been. I would use them again, but confirm closer to the date.
Where we stayed: Our travel agent had suggested The Goring Hotel, small and family run for generations, close to Buckingham Palace and Victoria Station. And quintessentially British.
Our room was good sized and very inviting; the bathroom was large, with dark woods, crimson colored marble and a wonderful heated towel rack. We had been upgraded to a garden view. A complimentary copy of a hard cover book about the hotel and its various guests greeted us upon arrival, as did our "roommate" for our stay - a stuffed sheep resting at the foot of our bed, the size of a medium dog. Sheep inhabit every guestroom, and sit before the fireplace in the hotel lounge, adding a touch of whimsy.
The staff at The Goring was truly topnotch, and its concierge, Ernest, was a gem. He dispatched a bellman to accompany us the couple of blocks to a currency exchange to convert our leftover euros.
As in Italy, breakfast was included in our package, and ordered off the menu in the hotel's subtle and lovely dining room. A delicate herb and cheese omelette, porridge, fruit salad, croissants and tea between us.
Of all our hotels, The Goring was our favorite.
What we saw and did: Our time, as mentioned, was limited - a late afternoon and evening, and then one full day and night. We spent our first afternoon settling in, exploring our neighborhood, seeing Buckingham Palace, having afternoon tea in front of the fire with the sheep at the hotel, picking up our tickets for "Billy Elliot." We skipped the changing of the guard the next day for a hop on/hop off bus tour with The Big Bus Company, departing from Victoria Station. The tours give a good overview of the sights. Our tickets were good for 2 or 3 days, and included a complimentary Thames cruise and several themed walks. We saw St. Paul's, Westminster Abbey, Piccadilly Circus, Big Ben and Parliament, Hyde Park, the London Eye, Tower Bridge and Tower of London, the museums. We hopped off at the Tower of London, where we spent a few hours. Took the free Yeoman Warder tour - informative and amusing; saw the Crown Jewels, of course. Didn't stop at any other sights; hubby had had enough walking. In the evening we saw "Billy Elliot - The Musical" at the Victoria Theater, and enjoyed it tremendously. A woman seated next to us, whose godson was in the cast, remarked that Michael Jackson and his entourage had commandeered the theater that day for the matinee performance.
We stopped off at a pub after the performance.
What we ate: Eating wasn't a focus in London: we had had so much delicious food in Italy. And with the rain off and on, the damp, chilly air and feeling weary now at the end, we opted for convenience and had both of our evening meals in the hotel's dining room. We shared a lobster omelette with avocado salad and roasted Devon John Dory the first night, and quiche and some sort of fish for our pre-theater meal. Food and service were excellent both nights.
Snapshots and thoughts: All the double decker buses, red slashes against the gray sky;in a blur from atop our sightseeing bus - brooding Big Ben and Parliament, the remnants of an ancient Roman wall, wedged between modern buildings; the architecture of St. Paul's and Westminster Abbey; boats on the dark Thames; the medieval and massive Tower of London with its colorful and colorfully dressed Beefeaters, Traitor's Gate and the ravens; a solitary guard at Buckingham Palace (where was his mate?;all the people, traffic,sounds; the thrill of live theater; the bigness after Italy.
We knew that our day and a half wouldn't do justice to London, and so we didn't try. We plan to return.
Final thoughts: Next time, we'll pack lighter. Next time, we'll save for business class. ATM's were plentiful, quick and easy to use. Knowing how to say hello, goodbye, how are you, how much does something cost, please and thank you
Dec 23rd, 2005, 07:39 AM
#32
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Continued: I hit "post my reply" when I didn't mean to. Didn't get to edit my last post. Sorry. Meant to say that even attempting to use pleasantries in the language of the country you are in goes a long way. Actually knowing how to ask where something is, knowing numbers and knowing directions goes further, especially when you are lost, as we were several times. Don't overschedule your days; look at each sight you check off your list as a gift, and each one you miss as another reason to return.
Last year's trip to the South Pacific was for my husband. This year's to Italy was for me. The experience far surpassed all my expectations. It enriched us both, and left me with many treasured memories.
Many thanks, again, to all of you for sharing your experiences and knowledge. Wishing you happy holidays.
Last year's trip to the South Pacific was for my husband. This year's to Italy was for me. The experience far surpassed all my expectations. It enriched us both, and left me with many treasured memories.
Many thanks, again, to all of you for sharing your experiences and knowledge. Wishing you happy holidays.
Dec 23rd, 2005, 05:03 PM
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Uma,
Again, thanks for your trip report--I'm really enjoying it. So glad you too loved La Giostra--it's a big favorite of ours and we love the Prince and his sons (the Prince even invited me to a free cooking class, but we were leaving and besides, I didn't have the heart to tell him that I dislike cooking--eating, yes, but cooking, no...)
And yes, the appetizer is so big it's good to know in advance...so, for those planning to go, keep that in mind when ordering.
Again, thanks for your trip report--I'm really enjoying it. So glad you too loved La Giostra--it's a big favorite of ours and we love the Prince and his sons (the Prince even invited me to a free cooking class, but we were leaving and besides, I didn't have the heart to tell him that I dislike cooking--eating, yes, but cooking, no...)
And yes, the appetizer is so big it's good to know in advance...so, for those planning to go, keep that in mind when ordering.
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