TRIP REPORT: Family of 5 in London, Germany, Normandy, and Paris
Jun 28th, 2003, 04:53 AM
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TRIP REPORT: Family of 5 in London, Germany, Normandy, and Paris
I have had the good fortune to travel to Europe about a dozen times for either business or pleasure, but have never been able to do it with the entire family, including children aged 15, 13, and 8. Here is an account of our just completed unforgettable first family trip to Europe:
Tues. June 10 - arrival in London. Arrived at Heathrow at around 8:30 p.m., cab fare from Heathrow to Scala House, 21 Tottenham Street in Bloomsbury, about 55 English pounds. (Unlike in Paris, a family a five can fit comfortably, with luggage, in a London cab.) Stayed five nights at Scala House ( www.scala-house.co.uk/news.html ). Nice, clean, older two bedroom apartment with additional single beds for two youngest children in living room. Met up with close friends, another family that has similarly aged children. Their Apartment 30 at Scala House had a great view. Unfortunately, our refrigerator was not cold enough to keep milk fresh, but theirs was. We otherwise were pleased with the accomodations. As was our experience across Europe on this trip, the air conditioning was inadequate during the warm, humid days, but two oscillating fans supplied by the apartments made the nights there pleasant. No appreciable street noise. Good location - Tesco, Sainsbury, and Marks and Spencer food stores are within several blocks, and the Goodge Street tube stop is just a block and a half around the corner.
Wed. June 11 - in London. Morning: Original London Sightseeing Tour of major landmarkds via open-topped double-decker bus from Victoria Station. Teenagers (15, 15, 13, and 12 years old) liked the tour while the 8 year old fell asleep. We got off halfway in time to see the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace, but difficult for younger children in group to see over the substantial crowd. Would have to be there at least by 11:00 a.m. to have decent viewing for the children. Lunch: food court at Victoria Station. Afternoon: Tower of London - worth seeing, but I thought the Beefeaters guided tour was somewhat disappointing - not enough historical context provided for the anecdotes they described. Dinnner: from take out place near Scala House. Evening: Walked ten minutes from Scala House to theater (7:30 p.m.) to see Mamma Mia, Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton Street, Stalls K23-24, L22-28. Very good seats booked through Albemarle's of London ( www.albemarle-london.com/news.html ) before departure and all ages thoroughly enjoyed the musical.
Thurs. June 12 - in London. Morning: British Museum. Kids liked the highlights of the Egyptian collection, the Elgin Marbles, and the mummies, but 1 to 2 hours was plenty of time for them there. Lunch: from hot dog vendor outside British Museum. Afternoon: British Airways London Eye ferris wheel and the self-paced tour of the nearby Cabinet War Rooms - both were trip highlights for all ages. Dinner (adults only): Hakkasan (Chinese) - 8 Hanway Place in Bloomsbury. The food was superb, but we must have exceeded the average age of the patrons by fifteen years at least. The atmosphere was too self-consciously hip for my taste, with loud techno-pop making dinner conversation an effort. Why don't restaurants understand that their making conversation difficult for their patrons usually diminishes rather than enhances the enjoyment of their meals, no matter how good the food?
Fri. June 13 - in London. Late Morning: Imperial War Museum - a hit with the dads and the 13 year old boy, while rest of the group went to Madame Tussaud's Wax Museum - a big hit with the rest of the kids; then met up via tube at St. Paul's Cathedral - liked by everyone, especially the climb to the dome, but unfortunately much of the interior of the cathedral - transept and choir area - was covered by scaffolding and tarps when we were there. Late Lunch: Dome restaurant across from St. Paul's. Afternoon: Globe Theater - decided not to see the play there that night although tickets were available the day of the performance; rest of the afternoon spent either at the adjacent Tate Modern art gallery - the two dads and the 13 year old boy found it fascinating, or Harrod's - enjoyed by moms and rest of the children. Dinner: leftovers at apartment.
Sat. June 14 - day trip to Oxford. Morning: train trip (1.5 hours) to Oxford - excellent special fare from Thames Trains of 1 pound per adult when they are accompanied by children, who pay 8 pounds per child per ticket ( www.thamestrains.co.uk ); need to buy these tickets from Thames Trains' special counter in the center of Paddington Station. Took one hour sightseeing tour from City Sightseeing Oxford in open-topped double decker bus - approved by all ages. Lunch: outdoors at the Turf Tavern in Oxford - very enjoyable for all ages, as it happened to be a day when many Oxford students completed finals/graduated and were celebrating in their colorful graduation robes with friends and family there. Afternoon: Blackwell's book store, punting on the Cherwell (20 pounds per punt for an hour - expensive but fun for all), walking around center city, Christ Church College, where scenes from the Harry Potter movies were filmed. Evening: fast non-stop train from Oxford back to London (1 hour). Dinner: Wagamama (Japanese noodle house) - Streatham Street - reasonable prices and a hit for all age groups.
Sun. June 15 - to Brussels/Dusseldorf. Parted company with the other family and we took one hour flight on British Midlands ( www.flybmi.com ) from London Heathrow to Brussels International. Fares on BMI booked earlier over the Internet before the trip were very reasonable. Rental Car: Hertz - intermediate sized station wagon reserved, but very helpful person at Hertz gold desk upgraded us to nicer, roomier Citroen van for the same price - approximately 550 Euros for six day rental with return in Paris. Apparently the best selection/ availability of cars is on Sundays. Morning: 2.5 hour drive through eastern Belgium, southeastern tip of the Netherlands, far western Germany to Dusseldorf to stay with German friends. Lunch: en route at MacDonald's in Echt, Netherlands. Afternoon: with friends in Dusseldorf, drinks/beer/wine at Lindenhof Restaurant in Oberwesel (a Dusseldorf suburb on the west side of the Rhine). Dinner: outdoors at the traditional "brewpub" Füchsen on Ratinger Strasse (very traditional German food) in Dusseldorf - highly recommended by our German friends and well liked by all, especially the kids who savored their first meal of German wurst (sausage). Evening: pleasant walk for all along the Rhine, through the Dusseldorfer Alstadt, and along the beautiful Konigsallee (the "Champs-Elysees of Dusseldorf"
.
Mon. June 16 - day trip to Cologne. Morning: drive to Cologne (45 minutes), visit the Dom (Cologne cathedral) - awe-inspiring for all ages. Lunch: pizza at Cologne Hauptbanhof (main train station) adjacent to cathedral. Unfortunately, did not have lunch at Holtmann's Restaurant facing the Rhine in the Cologne Altstadt, which was highly recommended by our German friends who are Cologne natives. Afternoon: enjoyable one hour walk across Rhine railway bridge (Hohenzollnerbrucke), down right bank, back over Deuzer Brucke to Altstadt, ice cream; return to Dusseldorf. Unfortunately, ran out of time and did not get to show the kids the outstanding Chocolate Museum near the Altstadt in Cologne that was also highly recommended by our German friends and that I had seen on a earlier trip ( http://www.schokoladenmuseum.de/engl..._of/index.html ). Dinner: the best meal of the trip - five courses for the adults - on the back patio at Gasthaus Stappen in Liedberg, about twenty miles west/southwest of Dusseldorf - just locals, no tourists for miles around (in German - www.gasthaus-stappen.de ). Kids thoroughly enjoyed the meal and the setting as well.
Tues. June 17 - drive from Dusseldorf to Oberwesel in the Rhine Valley. Morning: three hour drive to Coblenz via autobahn, then down left bank of Rhine valley to Oberwesel. Lunch: snacks/picnic food en route. Check in to Auf Schonburg castle, D-55430 Oberwesel/Rhine, Germany ( www.hotel-schoenburg.com ). For the only time on the trip, had to rent two rooms to accommodate the whole family, but got Tower rooms with balconies with incredible views - this castle/hotel the best accomodations of the trip for all ages. Afternoon: rent bikes at bike shop in central Oberwesel and ride along the Rhine a few miles to Bacharach - a big hit for the whole family, but especially the younger members. Dinner: in courtyard at Posthof Restaurant, 47 Oberstrasse, in Bacharach. Evening: return to Oberwesel and return bikes, watch brief windstorm/thunderstorm come in from balconies at Auf Schonburg (only rain on entire trip).
Wed. June 18 - long day drive to Normandy. Morning: excellent Continental breakfast at Auf Schonburg, then drive from Oberwesel to Remagen on the Rhine to see World War II Remagen bridge site and excellent small WWII museum there. Lunch: MacDonald's at Remagen. Afternoon and Evening: continue drive through Belgium, beautiful countryside of northern France, and Normandy to Bayeux - total drive from Oberwesel to Bayeux was about nine hours driving time. Lunch and Dinner: snacks/picnic food en route. Check in at Manoir des Doyens (Col. and Ms. Michael Chilcott's B&B), St. Loup Hors (a village on outskirts of Bayeux), Calvados 14400, France ( http://vacationhomes.com/rentals/1130.htm ). Nice, large, older traditional farmhouse gite (apartment) that easily accomodated the five of us. The Chilcotts were gracious hosts.
Thurs. June 19 - in Normandy. Morning: American Cemetery at Colleville sur Mer (overlooking Omaha Beach), drive down to and walk along Omaha Beach. Lunch: small takeout place at Omaha Beach. Afternoon: went to amazing Pointe du Hoc (about four miles west of Omaha Beach), visit German Cemetery in La Cambe, return to Bayeux. Dinner: Le Domesday (kids), La Petite Normand (adults) in Bayeux. Evening: walk around Bayeux. The weather this day was spectacular. The D-Day related sights were even more poignant than I had imagined before the trip. This held true for the children, too, who were familiar with the events from watching Saving Private Ryan and Band of Brothers. A great day for the whole family.
Fri. June 20 - morning in Bayeux area, two and a half hour drive to Paris in the afternoon. Morning: British Cemetery in Bayeux; the Bayeux Tapestry (a trip highlight - especially using the self-guided recording offered as part of the admission price); then World War II sites at Longues sur Mer (site of a very well preserved German battery that was featured in the D-Day movie The Longest Day - this was also a trip highlight for all ages) and the artificial Mulberry harbor at nearby Arromanches. Lunch: Le Domesday in Bayeux. Afternoon: Drive to Paris, check in at Citadines Louvre, 8 Rue de Richelieu, Paris 75001
( www.citadines.com/uhot/uwres_ltpms68.htm ). Nice, modern one bedroom apartment with efficient floor plan, including a comfortable double fold-out couch bed and extra rollaway for the three kids in the living area. Dinner: Juveniles (Spanish/tapas) - 47 Rue de Richelieu. Evening: take Metro to the Trocadero stop, walk to Eiffel Tower, go to top of tower. Admission was about $50 for the family, but worth it because it was thoroughly enjoyed by all ages. Attempted return to Citadines via Metro, but no Metro running at connection, so mom and kids taxi to hotel (Paris cabs will not take more than four) while dad walks home via Champs-Elysees, which of course is still rocking after midnight.
Sat. June 21 - in Paris. Morning: sleep in, everyone tired. Lunch: Café du Marly at the Louvre. Afternoon: The Louvre (1 to 2 hours for highlights - Venus de Milo, Winged Victory of Samothrace, Mona Lisa, and Italian Renaissance galleries - is more than plenty for the children); the ferris wheel and bumper cars at the carnival next to the Jardin des Tuileres were a nice break from more traditional sightseeing for the kids. Dinner: takeout from Le Brioche Doree that we ate in its pleasant outdoor dining area on the Champs-Elysees. Evening: casual walk along Champs-Elysees, watching the street performers, to the Arc de Triomphe. Too late to go to the top, as access had just closed at 10:30 p.m., but we were all were stunned by the sunset and the great view from under the Arc.
Sun. June 22 - in Paris. Morning: walk to Notre Dame and St. Chapelle. Long lines for both the tower at Notre Dame, which we did not brave, and at St. Chapelle, which we did endure. I had missed St. Chapelle on previous trips, I thought it was stunning and not anti-climatic despite everything I had heard about it. Chairs in upper chapel provided great opportunity to savor chapel interior and stunning stained glass windows as well as being a welcome rest. Lunch: Les Deux Palais (brasserie) - Boulevard du Palais, Ile de la Cite, across from the Palais du Justice/St. Chapelle entrance. Afternoon: Musee d'Orsay visit by dad and 13 year old son - thoroughly enjoyed by both. Dinner: Café D'Or - Rue St. Honore. Evening: Metro to Sacre Couer/Montmartre. The Sacre Couer steps were overrun by tourists, backpackers, and maybe some locals presumably there to see the sunset. Nevertheless, I've always liked seeing Sacre Coeur. Our children liked walking around the nearby square, the Place du Tertre, looking at the numerous portraitists and other street artists. Return to Citidines via the Metro.
Mon. June 23 - to London via the Chunnel on the Eurostar train (3 hours total, about 20 minutes under the English Channel). We got discount fares for our 15 and 13 year olds and an even greater discount for the 8 year old. Cab from Waterloo Station to Heathrow (about $100). Depart London Heathrow to return to the U.S.
Post-trip observations/lessons learned:
1. If you are the type who, when travelling, wants do it all/see it all (as I am), resist that temptation when the kids are along. One major site or event per morning, afternoon, or evening was plenty, particularly as the summer heat starts to set in. This was true even though our kids are in good shape, as they all participate in sports, yet they became fatigued during the warm days and wanted some time to chill in the hotel room. (I say "chill" only figuratively and not literally, as the air conditioning in most places we stayed was inadequate to cool the rooms during the day and the evening, but usually cooled off sufficiently during the night. We each took showers to cool off before bedtime and I'm sure it will be worse in July and August.)
2. Meals for a family of five at a sit down restaurant other than fast food or take out chains averaged the equivalent of 75 to 100 dollars per meal. At least two restaurants in Germany did not accept credit cards, so I had to make a quick run to nearby ATMs to cover the meal costs. I had no difficulty using ATMs for cash in England, Germany, or France.
3. Our schedule was probably a little too ambitious, because everyone was becoming tired by the last two days of the trip. In retrospect, I'd let the kids sleep in a few more mornings and ideally set aside at least one day in the middle of the trip as a free day to rest. Our kids love to swim, so scheduling a day at the beach or lake where they can swim would be a good, relaxing "free" day.
4. We saved money by eating breakfast in our apartment when possible, by staying where breakfast was offered as part of the accommodation charge, and by eating an occasional fast food meal.
6. We encountered no rudeness or overt anti-Americanism at any time during the trip. Although no one in the family speaks French, I believe that our trying to greet everyone we interacted with in France with a simple "bonjour" or "bonsoir" (in the evenings) and thanking them with "merci" (and requiring our children to do so) went a long way towards breaking the ice. Almost everyone was then willing or able to speak enough English or otherwise communicate effectively. Several people in each country expressed gratitude that Americans seemed to be willing to travel to Europe now.
7. Generally, there were no lines or very short lines at major sites, as apparently most schools in Europe were still in session, thus in my mind making early to mid-June ideal for a family trip to Europe.
8. Our daughter who invariably complained during the school year about her Spanish class returned from the trip wanting to learn to speak TWO foreign languages. We also never imagined our football and baseball playing 13 year old, who generally resists reading books despite our best efforts, would devour a book on D-Day in a single day before we arrived in Normandy, and would spend two afternoons absorbed by abstract and impressionist art at the Tate Modern in London and the Musee d'Orsay in Paris. Our youngest tried many foods he would never have considered back home. Since we have been home, the kids have talked non-stop to us and their friends about what a great time they had. Ah--the wonders of travel.
Tues. June 10 - arrival in London. Arrived at Heathrow at around 8:30 p.m., cab fare from Heathrow to Scala House, 21 Tottenham Street in Bloomsbury, about 55 English pounds. (Unlike in Paris, a family a five can fit comfortably, with luggage, in a London cab.) Stayed five nights at Scala House ( www.scala-house.co.uk/news.html ). Nice, clean, older two bedroom apartment with additional single beds for two youngest children in living room. Met up with close friends, another family that has similarly aged children. Their Apartment 30 at Scala House had a great view. Unfortunately, our refrigerator was not cold enough to keep milk fresh, but theirs was. We otherwise were pleased with the accomodations. As was our experience across Europe on this trip, the air conditioning was inadequate during the warm, humid days, but two oscillating fans supplied by the apartments made the nights there pleasant. No appreciable street noise. Good location - Tesco, Sainsbury, and Marks and Spencer food stores are within several blocks, and the Goodge Street tube stop is just a block and a half around the corner.
Wed. June 11 - in London. Morning: Original London Sightseeing Tour of major landmarkds via open-topped double-decker bus from Victoria Station. Teenagers (15, 15, 13, and 12 years old) liked the tour while the 8 year old fell asleep. We got off halfway in time to see the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace, but difficult for younger children in group to see over the substantial crowd. Would have to be there at least by 11:00 a.m. to have decent viewing for the children. Lunch: food court at Victoria Station. Afternoon: Tower of London - worth seeing, but I thought the Beefeaters guided tour was somewhat disappointing - not enough historical context provided for the anecdotes they described. Dinnner: from take out place near Scala House. Evening: Walked ten minutes from Scala House to theater (7:30 p.m.) to see Mamma Mia, Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton Street, Stalls K23-24, L22-28. Very good seats booked through Albemarle's of London ( www.albemarle-london.com/news.html ) before departure and all ages thoroughly enjoyed the musical.
Thurs. June 12 - in London. Morning: British Museum. Kids liked the highlights of the Egyptian collection, the Elgin Marbles, and the mummies, but 1 to 2 hours was plenty of time for them there. Lunch: from hot dog vendor outside British Museum. Afternoon: British Airways London Eye ferris wheel and the self-paced tour of the nearby Cabinet War Rooms - both were trip highlights for all ages. Dinner (adults only): Hakkasan (Chinese) - 8 Hanway Place in Bloomsbury. The food was superb, but we must have exceeded the average age of the patrons by fifteen years at least. The atmosphere was too self-consciously hip for my taste, with loud techno-pop making dinner conversation an effort. Why don't restaurants understand that their making conversation difficult for their patrons usually diminishes rather than enhances the enjoyment of their meals, no matter how good the food?
Fri. June 13 - in London. Late Morning: Imperial War Museum - a hit with the dads and the 13 year old boy, while rest of the group went to Madame Tussaud's Wax Museum - a big hit with the rest of the kids; then met up via tube at St. Paul's Cathedral - liked by everyone, especially the climb to the dome, but unfortunately much of the interior of the cathedral - transept and choir area - was covered by scaffolding and tarps when we were there. Late Lunch: Dome restaurant across from St. Paul's. Afternoon: Globe Theater - decided not to see the play there that night although tickets were available the day of the performance; rest of the afternoon spent either at the adjacent Tate Modern art gallery - the two dads and the 13 year old boy found it fascinating, or Harrod's - enjoyed by moms and rest of the children. Dinner: leftovers at apartment.
Sat. June 14 - day trip to Oxford. Morning: train trip (1.5 hours) to Oxford - excellent special fare from Thames Trains of 1 pound per adult when they are accompanied by children, who pay 8 pounds per child per ticket ( www.thamestrains.co.uk ); need to buy these tickets from Thames Trains' special counter in the center of Paddington Station. Took one hour sightseeing tour from City Sightseeing Oxford in open-topped double decker bus - approved by all ages. Lunch: outdoors at the Turf Tavern in Oxford - very enjoyable for all ages, as it happened to be a day when many Oxford students completed finals/graduated and were celebrating in their colorful graduation robes with friends and family there. Afternoon: Blackwell's book store, punting on the Cherwell (20 pounds per punt for an hour - expensive but fun for all), walking around center city, Christ Church College, where scenes from the Harry Potter movies were filmed. Evening: fast non-stop train from Oxford back to London (1 hour). Dinner: Wagamama (Japanese noodle house) - Streatham Street - reasonable prices and a hit for all age groups.
Sun. June 15 - to Brussels/Dusseldorf. Parted company with the other family and we took one hour flight on British Midlands ( www.flybmi.com ) from London Heathrow to Brussels International. Fares on BMI booked earlier over the Internet before the trip were very reasonable. Rental Car: Hertz - intermediate sized station wagon reserved, but very helpful person at Hertz gold desk upgraded us to nicer, roomier Citroen van for the same price - approximately 550 Euros for six day rental with return in Paris. Apparently the best selection/ availability of cars is on Sundays. Morning: 2.5 hour drive through eastern Belgium, southeastern tip of the Netherlands, far western Germany to Dusseldorf to stay with German friends. Lunch: en route at MacDonald's in Echt, Netherlands. Afternoon: with friends in Dusseldorf, drinks/beer/wine at Lindenhof Restaurant in Oberwesel (a Dusseldorf suburb on the west side of the Rhine). Dinner: outdoors at the traditional "brewpub" Füchsen on Ratinger Strasse (very traditional German food) in Dusseldorf - highly recommended by our German friends and well liked by all, especially the kids who savored their first meal of German wurst (sausage). Evening: pleasant walk for all along the Rhine, through the Dusseldorfer Alstadt, and along the beautiful Konigsallee (the "Champs-Elysees of Dusseldorf"
.Mon. June 16 - day trip to Cologne. Morning: drive to Cologne (45 minutes), visit the Dom (Cologne cathedral) - awe-inspiring for all ages. Lunch: pizza at Cologne Hauptbanhof (main train station) adjacent to cathedral. Unfortunately, did not have lunch at Holtmann's Restaurant facing the Rhine in the Cologne Altstadt, which was highly recommended by our German friends who are Cologne natives. Afternoon: enjoyable one hour walk across Rhine railway bridge (Hohenzollnerbrucke), down right bank, back over Deuzer Brucke to Altstadt, ice cream; return to Dusseldorf. Unfortunately, ran out of time and did not get to show the kids the outstanding Chocolate Museum near the Altstadt in Cologne that was also highly recommended by our German friends and that I had seen on a earlier trip ( http://www.schokoladenmuseum.de/engl..._of/index.html ). Dinner: the best meal of the trip - five courses for the adults - on the back patio at Gasthaus Stappen in Liedberg, about twenty miles west/southwest of Dusseldorf - just locals, no tourists for miles around (in German - www.gasthaus-stappen.de ). Kids thoroughly enjoyed the meal and the setting as well.
Tues. June 17 - drive from Dusseldorf to Oberwesel in the Rhine Valley. Morning: three hour drive to Coblenz via autobahn, then down left bank of Rhine valley to Oberwesel. Lunch: snacks/picnic food en route. Check in to Auf Schonburg castle, D-55430 Oberwesel/Rhine, Germany ( www.hotel-schoenburg.com ). For the only time on the trip, had to rent two rooms to accommodate the whole family, but got Tower rooms with balconies with incredible views - this castle/hotel the best accomodations of the trip for all ages. Afternoon: rent bikes at bike shop in central Oberwesel and ride along the Rhine a few miles to Bacharach - a big hit for the whole family, but especially the younger members. Dinner: in courtyard at Posthof Restaurant, 47 Oberstrasse, in Bacharach. Evening: return to Oberwesel and return bikes, watch brief windstorm/thunderstorm come in from balconies at Auf Schonburg (only rain on entire trip).
Wed. June 18 - long day drive to Normandy. Morning: excellent Continental breakfast at Auf Schonburg, then drive from Oberwesel to Remagen on the Rhine to see World War II Remagen bridge site and excellent small WWII museum there. Lunch: MacDonald's at Remagen. Afternoon and Evening: continue drive through Belgium, beautiful countryside of northern France, and Normandy to Bayeux - total drive from Oberwesel to Bayeux was about nine hours driving time. Lunch and Dinner: snacks/picnic food en route. Check in at Manoir des Doyens (Col. and Ms. Michael Chilcott's B&B), St. Loup Hors (a village on outskirts of Bayeux), Calvados 14400, France ( http://vacationhomes.com/rentals/1130.htm ). Nice, large, older traditional farmhouse gite (apartment) that easily accomodated the five of us. The Chilcotts were gracious hosts.
Thurs. June 19 - in Normandy. Morning: American Cemetery at Colleville sur Mer (overlooking Omaha Beach), drive down to and walk along Omaha Beach. Lunch: small takeout place at Omaha Beach. Afternoon: went to amazing Pointe du Hoc (about four miles west of Omaha Beach), visit German Cemetery in La Cambe, return to Bayeux. Dinner: Le Domesday (kids), La Petite Normand (adults) in Bayeux. Evening: walk around Bayeux. The weather this day was spectacular. The D-Day related sights were even more poignant than I had imagined before the trip. This held true for the children, too, who were familiar with the events from watching Saving Private Ryan and Band of Brothers. A great day for the whole family.
Fri. June 20 - morning in Bayeux area, two and a half hour drive to Paris in the afternoon. Morning: British Cemetery in Bayeux; the Bayeux Tapestry (a trip highlight - especially using the self-guided recording offered as part of the admission price); then World War II sites at Longues sur Mer (site of a very well preserved German battery that was featured in the D-Day movie The Longest Day - this was also a trip highlight for all ages) and the artificial Mulberry harbor at nearby Arromanches. Lunch: Le Domesday in Bayeux. Afternoon: Drive to Paris, check in at Citadines Louvre, 8 Rue de Richelieu, Paris 75001
( www.citadines.com/uhot/uwres_ltpms68.htm ). Nice, modern one bedroom apartment with efficient floor plan, including a comfortable double fold-out couch bed and extra rollaway for the three kids in the living area. Dinner: Juveniles (Spanish/tapas) - 47 Rue de Richelieu. Evening: take Metro to the Trocadero stop, walk to Eiffel Tower, go to top of tower. Admission was about $50 for the family, but worth it because it was thoroughly enjoyed by all ages. Attempted return to Citadines via Metro, but no Metro running at connection, so mom and kids taxi to hotel (Paris cabs will not take more than four) while dad walks home via Champs-Elysees, which of course is still rocking after midnight.
Sat. June 21 - in Paris. Morning: sleep in, everyone tired. Lunch: Café du Marly at the Louvre. Afternoon: The Louvre (1 to 2 hours for highlights - Venus de Milo, Winged Victory of Samothrace, Mona Lisa, and Italian Renaissance galleries - is more than plenty for the children); the ferris wheel and bumper cars at the carnival next to the Jardin des Tuileres were a nice break from more traditional sightseeing for the kids. Dinner: takeout from Le Brioche Doree that we ate in its pleasant outdoor dining area on the Champs-Elysees. Evening: casual walk along Champs-Elysees, watching the street performers, to the Arc de Triomphe. Too late to go to the top, as access had just closed at 10:30 p.m., but we were all were stunned by the sunset and the great view from under the Arc.
Sun. June 22 - in Paris. Morning: walk to Notre Dame and St. Chapelle. Long lines for both the tower at Notre Dame, which we did not brave, and at St. Chapelle, which we did endure. I had missed St. Chapelle on previous trips, I thought it was stunning and not anti-climatic despite everything I had heard about it. Chairs in upper chapel provided great opportunity to savor chapel interior and stunning stained glass windows as well as being a welcome rest. Lunch: Les Deux Palais (brasserie) - Boulevard du Palais, Ile de la Cite, across from the Palais du Justice/St. Chapelle entrance. Afternoon: Musee d'Orsay visit by dad and 13 year old son - thoroughly enjoyed by both. Dinner: Café D'Or - Rue St. Honore. Evening: Metro to Sacre Couer/Montmartre. The Sacre Couer steps were overrun by tourists, backpackers, and maybe some locals presumably there to see the sunset. Nevertheless, I've always liked seeing Sacre Coeur. Our children liked walking around the nearby square, the Place du Tertre, looking at the numerous portraitists and other street artists. Return to Citidines via the Metro.
Mon. June 23 - to London via the Chunnel on the Eurostar train (3 hours total, about 20 minutes under the English Channel). We got discount fares for our 15 and 13 year olds and an even greater discount for the 8 year old. Cab from Waterloo Station to Heathrow (about $100). Depart London Heathrow to return to the U.S.
Post-trip observations/lessons learned:
1. If you are the type who, when travelling, wants do it all/see it all (as I am), resist that temptation when the kids are along. One major site or event per morning, afternoon, or evening was plenty, particularly as the summer heat starts to set in. This was true even though our kids are in good shape, as they all participate in sports, yet they became fatigued during the warm days and wanted some time to chill in the hotel room. (I say "chill" only figuratively and not literally, as the air conditioning in most places we stayed was inadequate to cool the rooms during the day and the evening, but usually cooled off sufficiently during the night. We each took showers to cool off before bedtime and I'm sure it will be worse in July and August.)
2. Meals for a family of five at a sit down restaurant other than fast food or take out chains averaged the equivalent of 75 to 100 dollars per meal. At least two restaurants in Germany did not accept credit cards, so I had to make a quick run to nearby ATMs to cover the meal costs. I had no difficulty using ATMs for cash in England, Germany, or France.
3. Our schedule was probably a little too ambitious, because everyone was becoming tired by the last two days of the trip. In retrospect, I'd let the kids sleep in a few more mornings and ideally set aside at least one day in the middle of the trip as a free day to rest. Our kids love to swim, so scheduling a day at the beach or lake where they can swim would be a good, relaxing "free" day.
4. We saved money by eating breakfast in our apartment when possible, by staying where breakfast was offered as part of the accommodation charge, and by eating an occasional fast food meal.
6. We encountered no rudeness or overt anti-Americanism at any time during the trip. Although no one in the family speaks French, I believe that our trying to greet everyone we interacted with in France with a simple "bonjour" or "bonsoir" (in the evenings) and thanking them with "merci" (and requiring our children to do so) went a long way towards breaking the ice. Almost everyone was then willing or able to speak enough English or otherwise communicate effectively. Several people in each country expressed gratitude that Americans seemed to be willing to travel to Europe now.
7. Generally, there were no lines or very short lines at major sites, as apparently most schools in Europe were still in session, thus in my mind making early to mid-June ideal for a family trip to Europe.
8. Our daughter who invariably complained during the school year about her Spanish class returned from the trip wanting to learn to speak TWO foreign languages. We also never imagined our football and baseball playing 13 year old, who generally resists reading books despite our best efforts, would devour a book on D-Day in a single day before we arrived in Normandy, and would spend two afternoons absorbed by abstract and impressionist art at the Tate Modern in London and the Musee d'Orsay in Paris. Our youngest tried many foods he would never have considered back home. Since we have been home, the kids have talked non-stop to us and their friends about what a great time they had. Ah--the wonders of travel.
Jun 28th, 2003, 06:30 AM
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What an excellent report! I'm sure that people contemplating a trip with children will especially appreciate your effort. It sounds as if you had a great trip and your kids were real troopers.
From years of taking student groups to Europe, I know what you mean about time to "chill." (In fact, I often feel that way myself!)
From years of taking student groups to Europe, I know what you mean about time to "chill." (In fact, I often feel that way myself!)
Jun 28th, 2003, 05:36 PM
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M_Adel
I especially appreciated your candour in describing the Beefeater tour at the Tower and your London restaurant experience. We too managed to miss the Chocolate museum in Cologne despite my earnest intentions, but hey, one never has enough time. And even without kids along, I agree that either one has to sleep in now and then, or cut down on evening activities - ah, decisions, decisions! Thanks for the report.
I especially appreciated your candour in describing the Beefeater tour at the Tower and your London restaurant experience. We too managed to miss the Chocolate museum in Cologne despite my earnest intentions, but hey, one never has enough time. And even without kids along, I agree that either one has to sleep in now and then, or cut down on evening activities - ah, decisions, decisions! Thanks for the report.
Jun 29th, 2003, 02:31 PM
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Greatly enjoyed reading your trip report. What a wonderful experience you created for your family. Hopefully, you have opened the doors to a lifetime of travel for them.
In 2002, did a similar trip with myhusband and our two teens. They were real troopers, as I had the do it all/see it all mentality, myself. Memories that will last us a lifetime.
In 2002, did a similar trip with myhusband and our two teens. They were real troopers, as I had the do it all/see it all mentality, myself. Memories that will last us a lifetime.
