rach

I have been dreading writing this trip report for many reasons, but here goes!
Arrived Frankfurt Labor Day. Difficult to find the Fernbahnhof for longer distance trains. Had to go outside and around (is this usual?)..quite warm and muggy, even at this morning hour.
On to my selected town of Gengenbach im Schwarzwald, where I had rented a vacation apartment for a week--33 Euros per night for a first floor, 3 Bedroom place with balcony overlooking a serene flower and vegetable-filled garden, in a quiet residential area, just 5 minutes walk from the train station!
The landlord even picked us up and drove us through the small town. Beautiful half-timbered houses, a number of centuries-old city towers, an inviting, pedestrian-only town square...I'm already excited about the possibilities!
Gengenbach is a lovely small city-town of 10,000--just the right size for me. Two banks, 2 groceries, 5 bakery-konditoreien, 3 ice cream shops (the main evening pursuit by many) and at least 10-12 restaurant/cafes, many with outdoor seating, and not a bad meal at any time!
The apartment owners were a friendly couple in their late 60's (she) and 70's (he), who lived on the third floor. The second floor also sported a vacation apartment.
Brief nap and out for lunch at S'Chatull, whose motif seemed to be a large wooden witch hex. Lovely sunny weather, so we ate al fresco. A lot of roesti on the menus here-that delicious swiss fried hash brown staple. I got mine with roasted onions, but it also came with ham strips, bacon, cheese or herbs. Oh, and wheat beer! My favorite!
Many kinds, not just the well-known Franziskaner brand---very popular in most of the towns that we visitied. I was in heaven.
Grocery-shopped and strolled after a nap.
Tuesday, September 7- stayed fairly local, visiting the German Freilichtsmuseum in the village of Gutach--open-air collection of German dwellings/farm buildings from 1600 and later. We took the train to Hausach and walked to the edge of town before finding a concrete path. After a pleasant, but sweaty 20 minute walk in the hot sun, along green pastures, we arrived at the collection of buildings, arranged in a rural 2-3 acres or so. The tour books had advised arriving before the "bus loads with hordes of tourists" did...Hah, we hadn't passed a single soul along our walk! We took our time at the entrance, sitting on a shaded bench to enjoy our cold ice teas. Suddenly, a long queue of Germans started filing past us....what the heck? We walked to the far side of the entrance complex and there discovered a huge parking lot, disgorging dozens of those tourists (non-American) that we had been warned about. Clearly, we has arrived by the road less travelled!

dln

Thanks rach for your story. My husband's best friend from college lives in that area, and we always get the best photographs and letters from them. I've always thought it a very beautiful part of the country.

janebell

Even though you dread writing a trip report, it is so interesting and helpful. Thanks for making the effort.

If I may ask, how did you find this apartment? We like staying in apartments - yours sounds like quite a bargain!

Micheline

Very interesting Rach. We are planning our trip to BlackForest/Alsace next May. How did you find the apartment? Did you do the Route du Vin? Please tell us more.

rach

Continuing:
We wandered building to building, enjoying the glimpses of life as it was in the 1600's and later. After the 3rd or 4th building we realized that a placard on a post outside of each building twirled around to reveal explanations in English, French and German..well, duh! I had been expending considerable energy translating these facts for my non-German-speaking travel companion!
There was a crafting exhibition on the making of cuckoo whistles, and a frenzy of buying! There was a VERY detailed exhibit on the history and development of SACKS through the ages--straw, bull scrotum (Yes, really), hemp, linen, metal up to current day plastic--the importance of which was lost on me.
About 2/3 of the way through the buildings, I whacked my head on a particularly low wood-beam doorway with enough force to send me sprawling backwards! I couldn't figure out what had happened for an instant-what invisible force field was this?!
I dropped my camera, the battery came rolling out and I nicked my new $70 sunglasses! A nice fellow helped me find and retrieve my camera battery, while I worried if I had exposed my film, simultaneously trying to think how I could get to a hospital if so needed later! After causing a little stir, we sheepishly continued till the end. (I took 600 mg Ibuprofen in anticipation of the headache to come).
We crossed an underground passage at the entrance to discover a little cluster of outdoor shops hawking souvenirs and a few nice outdoor cafes. We sat at a table along the rushing Gutach River, inhaling the fresh, clean air. I had a Schwarwalder Kirschtorte (hey, when in Rome...) with 2 inches of cream filling and real cherry schnapps...again, heaven!
Afetrwards, we walked back to Hausach and trained the short distance to Wolfach to see Dorotheenhutte--a glass-blowing workshop/museum exhibit. Did I mention how hot it was outside? Imagine the craftsman standing with their molten glass at the kilns. Imagine us! A tiny "museum" spilled out onto the expected showroom and cashier. Not quite what I expected, but I did buy a hand-painted rooster mug to add to my eclectic around-the- world morning mug collection!

Kascha912

Oh please, keep on writing!

I hope the Ibuprofen helped prevent a major headache after bumping head so badly.

Did you go to Freiburg at all?

susanna

I am just starting to research this very same trip for next year at the very same time...can't wait to hear more.

harzer

It's nice to hear of someone enjoying feet-on-the-ground travel away from the international-tourist hotspots. I guess that you have spent quite some time in Germany already and have seen the light!

Thanks for your report, and I look forward to some more.

Oh, and maybe you could give us the email address for that place in Gengenbach. Did they throw in breakfast?

Harzer

rach

Sorry to be away so long, had to attend a medical conference....Don't have my notes with me today (maybe better for the dear reader?!), so lets see if memory serves...
Wednesday, September 8 trip to Strassbourg, Alsace, France with change in Offenburg. Tiny little metro train from Of'g to Strassbourg, about 35-40 minutes--jam-packed and stood the whole way (no other option, just 2-3 streetcar-like cabins).
Beautiful shining weather again! French language all around! Str. is BIG and can be overwhelming. We wanted to start at the huge cathedral, but were not able to immediately orient ourselves (hint: look skyward for the cathedral spires!). Got to cathedral square about 12:30 and couldn't figure out the way in! Lines at three entrances, my travel partner was grumbling! Finally figured out the entire cathedral closed for lunch--no
sightseeing between about 12:00 and 1:30. I used this time to climb the tower -- 300 steps up in a tight circular staircase! Dizzying views combined with dizzying spiral staircase!
I was glad that no other fools were behind me. I took my time and still made it up in about 7 minutes! Spectacular 360 degree views that few tourists go to see! Legs like rubber, much easier going down.
By then the cathedral was open for business and the astronomical clock exhibit was on ( Ididn't go see it, so can't comment). Quaint cobblestoned alleyways and inviting cafes called our names. I had quiche (tuna) and a Radler (1/2 beer and 1/2 lemon sprite)--delicious and quite refreshing! The names means "bicycler" --alcohol for the physically active which doesn't make you drunk! Why, oh why, has this idea not caught on in the uS?
To be continued... Dentist appointment now.

rach

harzer/janebell/micheline:
Didn't mean to ignore your inquiries...
Had heard that Gengenbach was the "Rothenburg o. d. T. for German tourists," virtually unknown to Americans. Also read a favorable trip report on this forum, so it sounded like the right place for me. I can speak (not terribly well) and read (quite well) German, so I check out apartment rentals online. Just type in www.whatevercity.de for Germany, or www.whatevertown.ch for Switzerland. Acccomodations is Unterkuenfte, and Ferienwohnungen is vacation apartments.
Most listings have nice photos and descriptions of amenities. This Unterkunfte site usually has a link to the area or town's tourist info agency, which will often do the footwork for you if you don't speak the language. Just tell them what you are looking for (ie: how many beds, dates, etc).
Breakfast is NOT included in these self-catering apartments. A fine Konditorei-Cafe was just 2.5 blocks away. We picked up fresh pastry or rolls each morning and enjoyed them outside on our balcony with hot tea/coffee/chocolate or milk from the grocery at our own pace. One local Konditorei even served breakfast on an outdoor upstairs terrace (not so usual I think in Germany). The name of our place was Lehmanns Ferienwohnung. Frau Florentine has no e-mail, so we communicated by fax to set things up. Other options can be viewed on the town's website www.gengenbach.de.

Micheline: Sorry, we did not 'do' Route du Vin, instead only visited Strassbourg and Colmar as we were using train for travel (I am a devotee of rail, no car).

Kascha: Have visited Freiburg many times before as a college friend lived there for years. Lovely, energetic town with great sites! This time, we again visited Staufen instead.

rach

After eating and shopping in Strassbourg, we made our way to the Palais de Rohan and caught a glass enclosed tour boat for a tour along the waterways (Ill River). It was pleasantly air-conditioned on this hot sunny day---a nice respite. It was nice seeing the city from a different angle. The section called Petite France looked really inviting. Commentary is by headphones, your language of choice. The ride lasted 70 minutes, the last 10 or so beginning to drag a bit.
After, we strolled through winding alleyways lined with small shops, trying to again find Petite France (not so easy for the directionally-impaired, even with map in hand).
Found numerous stores selling hand-painted Soufflenheim pottery--rustic birds and flowers on numerous background colors (mustard, pea green, deep blue). I bought a few pieces to go with my primitive country/Pennsylvania Dutch home decor. PS: A large 'Arts and Collectibles' Store had never seen Euro Traveller Checks and refused to accept them (This was pretty much the case everywhere. The only reason that I even had a few was that my landlady required a deposit at the time of booking the apartment).
On to a large dinner of Charcroute (sp?) Elsass-sauerkraut with sausage, ham , bacon and of course, beer!
Back to Gengenbach by 7 PM, just enough time for a nice evening stroll and an ice cream for my friend, a thick, not too sweet hot chocolate for me.
Tomorrow a change of pace--Schluchsee in the Black Forest--the largest lake in the area, and virtually unknown except to Europeans.

rach

Thursday, September 9:
Two hours train travel to Schluchsee with impressive scenery the whole way.
We saw towering windmills atop tall hills, then the forested slopes began. This is truly a tiny town with several shops up the hill (away from the lake), mostly geared toward those here for a 'beach' vacation (think rafts, children's inflatables, sporting gear). We browsed a few tourist shops, meandered through a large park and worked our way back to the only lakeside restaurant that I could see. Gorgeous blue waters with sailboats cruising lazily by. A pleasant breeze and SUN again! I had Eintopf, which loosely translates to 'one-pot' or stew with Mineralwasser. I timed the meal's end so that I caught the 2 PM roundtrip boat ride (5.50E). Rock beaches with several families still set up for camping.

Kascha912

Oh wow, I have so many fond childhood memories of the Schluchsee!
My family spent EVERY vacation in the black forest until I was 10 years old.

Thanks for reminding me of all those days of playing at the water.

rach

Schluchsee (cont'd):
Saw a few naked children cavorting on one of the rock beaches, then heard my fellow german passengers tittering a bit...realized that this was a nude beach section when an wrinkled, old brown man irritatedly looked up from the large boulder on which he was sitting!
Back to Gengenbach by early evening, ISO dinner. Had seen Pfannkuchen one evey menu--a type of very thin rectangular crusted "pizza" without sauce but with ham, bacon, cheese, onion etc. Decided to try one.
I had one with gaot cheese and tomatoes in a glass-roofed indoor/outdoor courtyard--delicious again!
Friday, Sept 10- To Staufen im Breisgau, just 20 minutes beyond Freiburg. Had been to this lively mid-sized town before and wanted to spend more time exploring the castle ruins above and the many wine-cafes. Of course, the story of Dr. Faustus is said to have occurred here as well. Original painted house is on the main square. Quite warm, once again. Hillside lined with vineyards, palm trees in town! Visited the local/famous schnapps distillery (?name) and bought a nice sampler gift to include raspberry, pear, quince and of course, cherry.
Had lunch next to Dr. Faust's house-Weisswurst and soft pretzel with mustard and local Sprudel (Mineralwasser). Great views from the castetop ruins! Wonderful shopping with eclectic boutiques too.

harzer

Hi Rach!

Thanks for the email address.

Some Ferienwohnungen do do breakfast. The one in Iphofen that Rex raves about is one example, and they did not stint. We also recently stayed in Seebach, which is not far from Gengenbach and the Wildsee and Mummelsee (no wrinkled old nudies), and got a breakfast deal there as well.

I think if you ask and pay extra it will happen in most places.

Harzer

tedgale

Charming account of a largely unsung (on this forum, anyway) corner of Germany and France. I passed through once (as a teenager in the 70s) and have always thought about visiting again. You have galvanized me to start researching!

flsd

Interesting and very helpful report, rach, thanks!

rach

Saturday, Sept 11 to Colmar, France...I LOVED this town. Much easier to navigate (at least to me) than Strassbourg. Walked a good 3/4 mile along an uninteresting street, one side lined with parks and fountains, to the Unterlinden Museum, repository of religious artifacts from throughout the ages, not the least of which is the compelling Isenheim Altarpiece. A free audioguide (your language of choice) comes with admission. Another gorgeous, sunny day. Saw a little tooterville trolley giving tours, but we opted for feet instead. Huge department store just outside the Unterlinden/combo grocery. Saw 'House of Heads' a terrific building from 1606, with 100 sculpted faces and images gracing the front of it00how its lasted in such good shape for almost 400 years is a testament to Alsatian preservation efforts. Meandered the quaint alleyways, lined with shops and cafes. Had lunch outside again, to the accompaniment of a band of five orange-oufitted playful jazz players (think large pumpkin costume), who interacted with the crowd as well. What fun!
Found Petite Venise, small gondolas were decorated for a fall harvest festival. And a wine festival under large white tent next door! What a find! AND they had Vin Nouveau--the best! After several hours of delightful meandering, we slowly started the stroll back to the RR station. But first, we came across a large carousel in the park, and an outdoor stand selling....CREPES! (Curious that I couldn't find crepes on the menus elsewhere). I was again in heaven...Chocolate/Chambord, then Nutella/Banana seemed just the right choices to enjoy under the trees, breeze gently blowing.

flsd

My husband and I have been talking about spending next Christmas in Europe. Some of the small towns discussed in this thread might fit the bill, especially as I'd like to try someplace in the Alsace, Schwartzwald or Austria other than the typical tourist destination, e.g., Vienna, Salzburg. Has anyone here ever visited smaller places in the region at Christmas time? How about Freiburg or Strasbourg? Would appreciate any first-hand stories.