Completely off the beaten track on the Petite Ceinture
Sep 22nd, 2013, 01:38 AM
#1
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Completely off the beaten track on the Petite Ceinture
The Petite Ceinture, the old circular rail line around Paris is no secret to Parisians, even though it closed to passenger traffic in the 1930's. When you are in the outer arrondissements, it is impossible not to encounter it from time to time as it crosses your route either above you or below you. The thing that strikes most people is how nature runs absolutely wild all along this thin strip, and it is a welcome relief after seeing all of the manicured public parks and the trees subjected to pruning torture.
Naturally, ever since the creation of the Promenade Plantée on the old Bastille rail line, people have had all sorts of ideas about the Petite Ceinture, but the SNCF will not give up its urban treasure easily -- just imagine the market value of all of the real estate.
I have been wanting to do some exploring for a long time although my crawling-through-the-holes-in-the-fence days are gone. I decided to follow the Petite Ceinture in various places while remaining on public streets for the most part. I still saw at least 10 people down on the tracks during my wanderings, though, so people are still as attacted as ever to this forbidden pleasure.
There is big news, though: part of the line is being converted into a new Promenade Plantée, and the first section opened this month in the 15th arrondissement. The second section is supposed to open in a couple of weeks. As you can imagine, I made a little report about this, so if you have had your fill of all of the monuments and museums, here is something to see that will probably never make it to the guidebooks: http://tinyurl.com/oldrails
Naturally, ever since the creation of the Promenade Plantée on the old Bastille rail line, people have had all sorts of ideas about the Petite Ceinture, but the SNCF will not give up its urban treasure easily -- just imagine the market value of all of the real estate.
I have been wanting to do some exploring for a long time although my crawling-through-the-holes-in-the-fence days are gone. I decided to follow the Petite Ceinture in various places while remaining on public streets for the most part. I still saw at least 10 people down on the tracks during my wanderings, though, so people are still as attacted as ever to this forbidden pleasure.
There is big news, though: part of the line is being converted into a new Promenade Plantée, and the first section opened this month in the 15th arrondissement. The second section is supposed to open in a couple of weeks. As you can imagine, I made a little report about this, so if you have had your fill of all of the monuments and museums, here is something to see that will probably never make it to the guidebooks: http://tinyurl.com/oldrails
Sep 22nd, 2013, 04:43 AM
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Always interesting, K. Interesting to imagine the possibilities of this. You do find the most unusual things to share. I love the little community garden near the beginning of your report. I also took interest in the repurposed station now used as a martial arts studio. My eyes are always drawn to "Muay Thai"' as my husband is quite gifted in that discipline and was taught by a Thai champion beginning at age 14.
Great report. Thanks.
Great report. Thanks.
Sep 22nd, 2013, 05:34 AM
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What a nice accoutrement for my Sunday morning coffee - thanks, kerouac! What a fun sleuthing exercise. I love all the gardens along the way (and hot peppers in Paris - who knew?!)
I knew nothing about the Petite Ceinture before reading this, so thanks for the education. Great report.
I knew nothing about the Petite Ceinture before reading this, so thanks for the education. Great report.
Sep 22nd, 2013, 10:18 AM
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marvelous report, Kerouac! I tried to follow your route, at least part of it, on Google street view. You can see much of the railway on the satellite imagery.
One aspect caught my interest; the Passage des Voûtes. I noticed that artist, or others had moved into the arches under the train tracks and set up housekeeping, or art studios/galleries. What's with that? Are they squatters or is there a legal way of doing this? In any case, I'd love to see what is in that gallery. Perhaps in May, as our apartment will be near the canal.
One aspect caught my interest; the Passage des Voûtes. I noticed that artist, or others had moved into the arches under the train tracks and set up housekeeping, or art studios/galleries. What's with that? Are they squatters or is there a legal way of doing this? In any case, I'd love to see what is in that gallery. Perhaps in May, as our apartment will be near the canal.
Sep 22nd, 2013, 11:35 AM
#7
Kerouac, you are starting to remind me of my father's Uncle Sam. He lived in Brooklyn and explored all of New York City on foot, documenting his travels in a diary he kept all his life. As each subway line opened or was extended, he would ride to the end and explore. My father inherited his curiosity about the city and I was exposed to many nooks and crannies that few people know about.
I love the spirit of urban exploration that you exhibit.
I love the spirit of urban exploration that you exhibit.
Sep 22nd, 2013, 02:37 PM
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As always I enjoy your photos and the story that goes with them. We'll be in Paris soon but probably won't follow the trails this time. We're headinh ogg to the Prix de Arc de Triomphe at Longchamp and a small side trip to Rouen.
Sep 23rd, 2013, 08:59 AM
#12
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I can never stress enough the importance of exploring Paris at random. Today, I was continuing to take pictures for the report in the 18th arrondissement, where I have now lived for 22 years (out of a total of 40 years in Paris). And I discovered all sorts of interesting streets and buildings that I had never seen before, almost to the extent of being sidetracked from my "mission" of following the rails.
Sep 24th, 2013, 11:42 AM
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What a beautiful report. We all need to be a tourist in our own city once in a while. It is amazing the things you can find. We have an area that goes through the downtown area that has been cleared for a bike route. Your photos of the abandoned train track reminded me of this area. We also have a few restaurant that are housed in abandoned train stations. Great use use of old buildings.
I love the garden use of the area. Many abandoned lots in our downtown area are being used for gardens to use in local soup kitchen.
Thank you for sharing.
I love the garden use of the area. Many abandoned lots in our downtown area are being used for gardens to use in local soup kitchen.
Thank you for sharing.
Sep 25th, 2013, 01:06 AM
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Another marvel!
We were in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont in May and saw those tracks just after we got off the bus at the top of the Parc. Who knew what wonders awaited Just Beyond?
If I were single . . . .
We were in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont in May and saw those tracks just after we got off the bus at the top of the Parc. Who knew what wonders awaited Just Beyond?
If I were single . . . .
Nov 25th, 2013, 12:19 PM
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http://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/17/tr...foot.html?_r=0
NY Times Travel Page Last Week has an article on walking part of the Petite Ceinture.
NY Times Travel Page Last Week has an article on walking part of the Petite Ceinture.
