Buongiorno- right now I am in Sorrento at the Il Nido hotel using their free internet and I wanted to get a head start on my trip report. First of all, I want to thank all of those Fodorites who have helped me plan this trip over the past year. You have been right on. I planned our vacation using tips from Frommers, TripAdvisor, Rick Steeves ETBD, etc. but mainly through Fodors message boards. Sorry I don't have the writing flair or attention to detail of Fodor stalwarts like Grinsa, Ira, or the incomparable SeaUrchin but I will do my best to describe our travels.

First of all some background. It has been hot, muggy, and hazy for 8 of the last 15 days or so. A thunderstorm blew in on Sat and cleared out the weather so it has been relatively nice. Still a little too hot for our Seattle liking but not as hot here as last summer. Expensive, especially with the exchange rate for the euro. We expected it, planned and budgeted for it though. Some strategies we adopted to cope. Eat a large breakfast in your hotel room (usually continental), and one big meal for the day, either large lunch or dinner and lots of gelato. Breakfast would usually carry us until 1:30 or so, then we would have a pizza or panini, gelato, then dinner. The Italians do not eat till after 8 or so at night. For our big meal of the day we would both order insalata mista(salad) and a tomato dish(pompodoro). Their tomatoes are locally grown, so deep red, so sweet, so delicious, and so unlike anything we get at home. My wife and I would take turns ordering a primi (pasta) dish-one for two (un per due)- and share and the other would order a secondi (meat or fish) to share as well. No one ever blinked an eye about sharing and often brought an extra dish for us. Depending on the dolci (sweet) that night we would take turns ordering as well (she craved anything chocolate). If we didnt see anything we liked for dessert there was always gelato, chocolate cannoli, tiramisu, delicioso limone, etc. out in town.

Anti-Americanism? Absolutely NONE whatsoever in 2 weeks. The locals have been most gracious, friendly, and helpful everywhere, even when they understand no English. We have met many Americans and British here AND THEY ARE ALL HAVEING A FABULOUS TIME. Come on over. You will too. I know my brother cancelled his trip to Italy because of terrorism concerns but you cannot let that interfere with your travel plans if you do your best to avoid "hot spots".

Tipping- our major faux pas. On our first night in Italy we had dinner at the Villa Brunella restaurant on Capri. It was fabulous- ravioli with smoked cheese, tagliatelle with crab, insalata caprese, sole, etc. (sorry I warned you I don't have the attention to details like Ira). The bill came up to almost 90E for two (we don't drink)with a 5E coperto and 12% servicio. My wife and I debated and thought that was enough tip. Boy our waiter was furious and let us know it with a disgusted glare. If looks could kill. Hoo boy. I guess the Italians expect an additional tip for good service (theirs was) and we always tipped more after that experience.

Always check your bill for the service charge-some restaurants don't include it and expect a tip in euros separate from the bill. My preference is to pay it with my credit card and get mileage but a lot of restaurants expect a tip separately. We had wonderful service everywhere at restaurants recommended by Fodorites which I'll go into later. But right now we are off to Pompeii so I will have to continue later. Ciao

Thanks for the compliment! I am so happy you are having a wonderful trip.
Are you going to wave at us on the web cam?
I hope you will post some more soon and some pictures when you return!

Hi aneckc,

Glad the weather improved. If you can find some, get a bottle of Lachryma di Christi (Tears of Christ) to go with your pomodoro.

Thanks for sharing.

Let's hear more.

OK-just got back from Pompeii. Great sunset on the Mediterranean tonight in Sorrento from our hotel Il Nido.

More general observations. Arrived in Italy with $100 cash im my wallet(never used a cent) and no Euros. I brought 2 ATM (Bancomat)cards- one for Cirrus and one for Plus as well as 3 credit cards (American Express, Mastercard, and Visa). Cirrus ATMs were everywhere although I preferred to use my Plus card from the Navy Federal Credit Union because they don't charge me extra for each transaction (very few Plus ATMs though). Got some euros at the Rome airport while waiting for my flight to Naples. I have used my Delta American Express card (Skymiles)everywhere except for the Ristorante San Giovanni in Pontone. The smaller restaurants, buses, ferries, trains, and many shops required euros.

Laundry- I was charged $20 for 3 sets of underwear at my hotel in Positano-Villa Rosa. I only saw one self service lavanderia on my trip in Sorrento across from the English Pub on Corso D'Italia- 8 euros for 6 Kg. Very expensive so we have been washing our laundry at night.

OK -took a flight from Seattle to Naples, first class using our Delta Skymiles. The Seattle-JFK portion of our flight on Delta was dismal. Delta should be ashamed of their first class service in the US. Old 757, holes in the leather seats, run down bathroom, really disgusting breakfast of dried omelet, half cooked hash browns, plastic utensils. However, the JFK-Rome portion of our trip was everything I expected including reclining leather sleeper seats, better food (my TV monitor was broken though). Finally got to Naples around 11 AM and took the Alibus, 3 E, to the Molo Beverello port, about 1 hour for 5 miles. The taxi ride would have cost 25 E and not gotten us there any faster because of the horrendous traffic mess. I'm glad we didn't take the taxi because the traffic was impossible and was so much more expensive. Naples was utter chaos. I have ridden in taxis in Rome, Florence, Tijuana, Bangkok, Manila, Seoul, Tokyo, Mombasa, etc. and Naples was the worst. Talk about gridlock and noise.

Took the first ferry to Capri where we stayed at the beautiful La Minerva hotel in Capri. The hotel is immaculate and beautiful, exactly like their website. I thoroughly enjoyed it and the staff was welcoming and helpful. The owner's grandson, Luigi Esposito, spoke excellent English and was very handsome and charming to boot. Breakfast on our own terrace with croissants, rolls, jams, cheese, hot chocolate, fresh squeezed orange juice each morning, listening to the birds sing in our lush white terry bathrobes was divine! The sea view was partially obstructed by 2 trees in the back of the hotel, otherwise no complaints.

We loved the Caesar Augustus gardens nearby. We strolled there every night around 6 PM after the crowds had left to enjoy the views of the Il Faragioni, expensive yachts, and sunset in peace. They close the gates at dusk (about 7 PM). Couples enjoying the romantic scenery. One guy even proposed to his girlfriend while we were there!

We did take a trip to the Blue Grotto the next morning and while it was very "touristy" I'm glad we did it. It was beautiful and our row boat guy sang "O Sole Mio" for us. Afterwards we hiked down to the Il Faraglioni for lunch at the La Fontelina Restaurant on the beach. It was terrific, about 80 E for two. Pricey but our main meal for the day. The hike back up the stairs was torture in the broiling sun and humidity. I have coronary heart disease but somehow managed to make it back up without killing myself. Hiked over to the Natural Arch which was underwhelming. Had some great gelato, my favorite being Melone. My wife loves anything with chocolate. The Caprese(chocolate) torte with vanilla gelato was scrumptious.

Many super rich in Capri town (Prada, Gucci, etc). Better shopping and cheaper in Anacapri for my taste abd budget. Took the chairlift up to Mt Solaro but the views were obscured by the haze that day. Met some great girls from Chicago in town. Everyone was very friendly. Had our final dinner at the Hotel Belsito Restaurant- great views with moderate prices.

On the day that we left (after 3 nights) there were 2 cruise ships disembarking their passengers at the same time with long lines waiting to go up the funiculare. I'm glad we left in the morning before it got any more crowded. All in all, a great experience and a wonderful start to a dream vacation.

Took an early mornig ferry to Sorrento with a connecting boat to Positano, our next stop for 4 nights.

Gotta go to bed now. More to follow as time permits. Ciao

Buongiorno my Fodor friends-

First of all, I forgot to thank some other regular members of this message board- Steve James, Cicerone, and WalkAmalfi- for their timely, accurate information. Mille grazie.

Some other general observations. I spoke with a young woman from Boston one evening and she gushed about how beautiful Italian men were. Frankly, I've never thought of men as being beautiful, but I have to admit the Italian men here are beautiful...if you like your men tall, dark, and handsome with a cute accent. Personally, I prefer to look at the Italian women. My, my. They are so gorgeous amd what's more they know it and seem proud to strut their stuff. From their see- through, low cut blouses displaying their AMPLE cleavages, to their low cut, tight, see-through pants with thong panties, with high heel shoes and fashion sun glasses they look marvelous. Momma Mia molto bella. Its been hard for me to walk next to my wife of 33 yrs. to keep from drooling all over myself. Be still my heart.

The food has been fabulous. Two years ago on our 3 week trip to northern Italy we went to Rome, Florence, Rapallo, Bolzano, and Venice and were not impressed with the food. Thought it was mediocre at best. On the other hand, every meal we've had here in southern Italy has been molto delicioso. We have not had a bad meal yet. The seafood is fresh and tasty, unlike what you'd find at Red Lobster back home. The pasta is always al dente. I am afraid that we seriously overcook our pasta in America. The vegetables are garden fresh, especially the sweet, deep red pomodoros (tomatos) Yum. Mangiamo.

Phone card-we bouught a 5 E international phone card from a tabacchi stand and have used it with clear connections from our hotel rooms everywhere with no problems. Over 2 hours. The operator tells you how much time you have left before each call.

Now for the rest of the story.

We took the ferry from Capri to Sorrento (about 30 mins) and from Sorrento to Positano (about 45 mins). They were both hot, noisy and crowded trips. The ferries have to travel a distance from the coastline and with the haze we did not have that great a view of the fabulous Amalfi coastline. (We could easily start a debate about whcih is the more scenic drive- the Amalfi Coast, Pacific Coast Highway near Carmel, or the drive out to Hana.) We finally got into beautiful Positano about 11 AM and were immediately greeted by men from Positano Porters who offered to take our luggage to our hotel for 10 E. I thought that was a little expensive for 2 pieces so we carried and dragged our suitcases uphill and over steps for about a quarter mile in the stifling heat. More cardiac stress. We finally made it up to the lower road there and while waiting for the Inter Positano bus (cost 1 E) to ride up to the Villa Rosa Hotel a shopkeeper informed us that it was only a 5 minute walk further up to the hotel...so we hiked some more in the heat. About another 100 yards.

Finally got into the hotel and we were warmly greeted by the 3 young ladies who share duties at the front desk-Velia, Marianna (the owner's daughter), and Angela. I had made our reservations last Oct. for room 18 which everyone recommended for 4 nights but unfortunately the previous occupant asked to spend another night in "our" room to catch an early morning flight out the next day. I did not want to cause a fuss so we accepted another room for one night, Room 25. It was small, dark and had a partially obstructed view.

Everyone, I have to tell you now the Villa Rosa re-numbered all of their rooms when they moved their office to the first floor closer to the street. The former room 18 is now room 32. Remember that because room 32 is FABULOUS if you can get it.(They are already accepting bookings for 2006) I think any of the rooms on the 3rd or fourth floors will give you a great view (the 2nd floor view is partially blocked by the le Sirenuse hotel) but room 32 is EXCEPTIONAL. Room 32 is huge with one wall completely made of glass so you can enjoy the view of the Mediterranean and Positano from anywhere in your room. The bathroom is large and bright. The room sits on the corner and has a large terrace which looks directly onto the town. What a fabulous view. I couldn't get over it...still can't.

Picture this- my wife and I spent hours in our air conditioned room in our two sitting chairs during the heat of the day just admiring the view. We spent hours in the early morning on our terrace in our lounge chairs admiring the sunrise and the town awakening. We spent hours in the early evening in our lounge chairs watching the sun set over the town and the lights coming on. I didn't want to leave after 4 days.

Each night we filled out a menu and what time we'd like breakfast. The following morning a waiter would bring our breakfast at the appointed hour. He would spread out a white tablecloth over our table on the terrace and we enjoyed our breakfast in the morning cool. Rolls, croissants, double order orange juice, and hot chocolate with frothy latte. That was living large. The only thing missing was the white terry bathrobes we had at the La Minerva hotel. It was wonderful.

Let me backtrack a bit. During dinner at the Villa Brunella Restaurant on Capri a pretty young woman and her party caused quite a stir when they couldn't get a table near the window. She pouted, whined and generally carried on until the waiters finally moved some tables aroiund to accommodate her. It was disgusting to see this ugly American in action so that is why I didn't fuss about losing one night in room 18(now 32). Maybe I should have in retrospect.

Anywqy, as soon as we unpacked we had Velia make a lunch reservation for us at the Donna Rosa Restaurant in Montepertuso. We took the local bus up for one euro. Another couple took a taxi and paid 15 E. Too expensive for us. We chose the Donna Rosa for lunch today because they do not have a pick up service. We took the bus up and hiked down after lunch.

The Donna Rosa was fabulous. Elegant dining, delicious food (we had excellent home grown vegetables and pomodoro salads, their signature black and white pasta with seafood, tagliatelle with mushrooms, lamb chops, out of this world panna cotta dessert with wild blackberry sauce and also their lemon cake). It was all delightfully served by Rosita, the owner's daughter. Warm and gracious, she spoke excelllent English. The restaurant is named after her grandmother and many of the furnishings are her antique heirlooms. Rosita's mom is the cook and her father travels around the world buying the wines they serve. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch over 2 hours and although it was pricey ($130 US) it was worth it. Our best meal so far. The hike down a steep trail only took about a half hour to get back to Positano. It was a good calf workout in the heat.

For dinner on the next 2 nights we had reservations at La Tagliata and Il Ritrovo, again in Montepertuso (all highly recommended on this message board). They both sent Mercedes cars for pickup and return.

La Tagliata was wonderful with the friendliest staff and relatively cheap (50 E for 2). They brought out a complementary appetizer of beans and meat with a delicious baked ham and cheese bread. Their tomatos were the sweetest yet. Excellent service. They offered complementary Limoncello drinks after dinner. Best value.

Il Ritovo was even more rustic. No one spoke much English but we got along just great. Huge plate of mussels for 10 E. Meal was even cheaper than the other. Montepertuso is high up in the mountains so it was cooler than down in Positano. Also, more farming smells, flies, and bugs...but that was part of the ambience. I highly recommend all three restaurants.

For our last night we planned on another splurge at the La Sponda Restaurant at the Sirenuese. Their website showed a thousand candles in a romantic setting but that is only during the winter. In the summer there are no candles but dinner is served in the outside terrace. So we cancelled our reservation there and had dinner in town at the Cafe Positano. It is a popular restaurant with nice views but the meal did not measure up to the other 3 in Montepertuso in price or quality IMHO.

One afternoon we took a tour of the Emerald Grotto. It cost 10 E for a 2 1/2 boat ride along the coast. It was a beautiful boat ride but the grotto tour itself, which cost an additional 5 E, was a total rip-off. Absolutely nothing there, especially in comparison to the Blue Grotto. Along the way we stopped for a high diving competition from one of the bridges. These daredevil men were jumping from a bridge over 40 meters high (more than 100 feet) into the sea below. It was spectacular. We also stopped for a while to swim in the Mediterrranean on the way back- a welcome respite from the searing heat.

Another afternoon we rented a speed boat, 20 euros for an hour. That was an adventure, especially since I hadn't driven a boat in over 20 years. We had a Margherita pizza from Lo Guarracino, takeout for 3.5 E, on our way to Il Fornillo beach. We really wanted to rent a jet ski but at 140E for an hour that was way too expensive.


Just a few words on shopping. Capri was the most expensive although we did find some beautiful ceramic tile numbers for our address to our home in Anacapri for 2.5 E. (They were 3-3.5 euros everywhere else). Positano and Amalfi were just as touristy although the shops in Amalfi are basically along one level road whereas Positano winds along a steep hill. Sorrento definitely has the best and cheapest shopping. Lots of stores just off the main street. Interestingly enough, each night after 7 PM during the summer the police block off about a mile of the Corso D'Italia and the street becomes one long pedestrian mall with people window shopping, eating their gelatos, and just enjoying the cooler evening.

Anyway, I digress again. Back to Positano. I LOVE POSITANO. The views are to die for. Individually, many of the buildings are old and ugly but seen collectively, the palette of pastel shades create an unforgettably beautiful picture. No wonder there are so many weddings and honeymoons here. I shopped for an oil painting to remind me of my stay in Positano but at 3-4000 euros plus shipping it was just a little too rich for me. I couldn't do it though I tried to rationalize it every day. Positano most closely reminds me of the Cinque Tierra and Portofino but has its own unique charm. I will always treasure my stay in Positano. Alas, all good things must come to an end. Boo Hoo. On to Ravello.

We took the Sita bus to Amalfi- 1.3 euros, 36 minutes, in an air conditioned bus with stunning views of the Amalfi Coast line up close (not like the ferries). No car sickness for my nausea prone wife. The buses run frequently and are cheap and convenient. We tried to travel during the middle of the day when most of the crowds have already reached their destinations and found the buses and traffic much lighter then.

Gotta go now. More later. Ciao

A final word about the Villa Rosa hotel. I feel that it is the best value in town at 140 euros. Its position in town is close enough to the beach for an easy walk but high enough to get a wonderful view of Positano itself, especially from the 3rd and 4th floors. Some of the other hotels like the Buca de Baco are right on the beach but don't have the same views. The Villa Franca hotel is high up in Positano with a terrific view of the town and Mediterranean but far away from the beach and not as closeup view. It is a long walk down or a bus ride up. Not too convenient. The staff at the Villa Rosa was wonderful and accommodating too. I can't say enough about our sty there. I MISS THE VILLA ROSA HOTEL AND POSITANO and it hasn't even been a week. Ciao

Positano is special, isn't it? I miss it too. I love reading your report it makes me feel like I am sitting on your terrace in Positano and you are telling me about your day.

Hi aneckc,

>Naples was utter chaos.<

Welcome to Napoli. Did you notice that all the traffic lights were on yellow blink?

Great report. I was picturing the AC as I read.

After taking the bus from Positano to Amalfi, got another bus ticket for the 20 minute trip up to Ravello. It is beautiful, cool and quiet compared to the other areas we've visited. We stayed at the Villa Maria hotel where we were warmly greeted by Tina who offered us a drink as we waited for our room to be readied. It is an older hotel which has been refurbished and has a wonderful outdoor restaurant with a terrace overlooking the valley out to the sea. The staff here were very friendly and helpful. After checking in around noon we had lunch at the Cumpa Cosimo and met the famous Mamma Netta. She was very gracious and we spent a nice afternoon there. Tried their pasta sampler. After lunch, we spent the afternoon wandering through the Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone gardens. The gardens themselves were underwhelming but the view of the Amalfi Coastline were spectacular. Ciao.

The next day after a beautiful breakfast on the terrace (that morning they were playing beautiful Neapolitan love songs on the stereo and I asked the desk clerk where I could buy a CD like it. She said "Do not worry, by tonight I will make you a copy of it." Sure enough, there was a CD waiting for me later that evening signed 'Compliments of the Villa Maria Hotel') we hiked down to Amalfi with a stop in Pontone (about 45 mins with stops for photos)for lunch at the Ristorante San Giovanni (the only restaurant or hotel on our trip which did not accept our American Express card). The turnoff on the trail is unmarked but it is right at the Volkswagon repair shop. The restaurant has a terrace with a great view of the valley below. The food was excellent, service great, and very cheap. After lunch we continued our hike down to Amalfi, perhaps another 30 minutes. We took the bus back up from Amalfi. It would be a strenuuous hike from Amalfi to Ravello but we did meet 7 young people along the trail making the hike. That evening we attended the Philip Glass concert in Ravello. It was in a spectacular setting in the gardens of Villa Rufolo under the stars overlooking the Minori coastline. Unfortunately, the concert itself was very disappointing, boring in fact.

The following day we said goodby to Ravello and continued our journey to to Sorrento via a bus. We could have taken a ferry but the cost would have been three times as much (bus fare 2.4&euro and we made the trip in 1.5 hrs. No problems.

We stayed 4 nights at the Il Nido hotel in Sorrento. Based on the glowing comments in their visitor's guestbook we chose this hotel. It is a very basic, clean, cheap (98&euro, hotel with a spectacular view of the Bay of Napoli at sunset (if the bay is not obscured by a haze- 2 of the 4 days it was). The hotel has a small swimming pool. Breakfasts here were very spartan compared to the other hotels we stayed in- dry cereals, milk, coffee, OJ, rolls and croissants, ham and cheese, yougurt, and fruit cocktail. They offer a free pickup and drop off service in town since the hotel sits 5 miles away or so from Sorrento up on a hill. They have free internet service from 0800 until midnight. Curiously, they charge 6€ an hour outside the posted hours. Someone is always watching and on departure I was charged for using the internet before the "free time". Beware. The shower stall is very tiny (like that on a cruise ship), the bath towels very thin, and the mattress lumpy and thin.

In stark contrast to the warm welcome and gracious reception we experienced everywhere else during our 2 week vacation, the staff at the Il Nido were strangely sullen and terse. No one smiled here, (even the maids, waitresses, and the 2 brothers who work the reception desk, Dino and Gianni). It seemed to us like no one enjoyed working here. When we greeted someone with a Buongiorno, they would look to the floor and mumble something back. This was unlike any response we received everywhere else. The Italians we found were always cheerful and gracious even when they spoke no English or when we did not purchase any of there wares. The ONLY one at this hotel who was the least bit friendly was the mini-bus driver Carlo. He was great.

It made us feel very uncomfortable to even ask them any questions. It was as if they resented us Americans. It was not only my impression but I found a similar perception from another family from Oregon staying there at the same time. It was disturbing to me because this was not the reception that I was expecting based on the comments posted on their website.

Bottom line is that if you want a quiet, cheap, clean place to stay this hotel might be right for you. As for me, I felt too uncomfortable here with the staff and will not return. There are many other hotels in Sorrento where I can spend my time and money without the attitude this hotel displayed. Ciao. More about our time in Sorrento later.

Hi aneckc, thanks for sharing your trip report; it is very helpful.

Sorry to hear about the chilly reception staff (except for the mini bus driver) at the Il Nido. I fully understand your feelings as the exact same thing happened to me in Paris at Hotel Danube. Needless to say, it didn't encourage me to return for another stay.

Very nice report--a good primer for the Amalfi coast since you stayed in all 4 primary locations.

I am planning to go to the Amalfi coast on my own (I'm a woman) beginning August (I live in Holland) for about 14 days. My idea was to spend a few days in Positano and may be also Ravello (or would Amalfi itself be nicer?) and then some 3 days in Capri or Ischia, at the beach. Whilst in Positano, I'd like to visit Sorrento, Amalfi and Ravello. Is that a good idea? Or would it be better to stay in, say, Ravello for a couple of days? How far is it from place to place? I wouldn't like to rent a car, I'd rather either use their bus service or take a cab (or boat??). I would so much appreciate information on what to do, where to go first, etc. All I know is that the last 3 days I'd like to relax by a beach, happy with the memories of a nice trip. I would fly to Naples, obviously, but where should I go first? Please all you great travellers, give me some advice. Many thanks, Adriana

Aneck.
I'm reading your report and enjoing avery bit especcially abouth those beatiful (men) I mean DONNE.

Me and my family are leaving for Italy on Tue. the 27th we are landing in Rome and renting a car and going all over. but reading your great report I wish today was the 27th. Can't wait.
Keep the good stuff coming .
Thanks Pino

thanks for the report.

I am booked for 3 nights at Villa Rosa at the end of Sept and they say the only room they have left is one of those semiobstructed rooms on 2nd floor. I have requested to move up if another room is available, but do you think I should investigate other hotels? How much was your hotel in Ravello?

Buongiorno-fans of Italia: Just got back to the states...boohoo! I'm going to try to finish our trip report tonight.

Sorrento- took the mandatory tour of Pompeii on the Circumvesuviana train, a half hour trip from Sorrento, for about 5 E roundtrip. Huge crowd early in the morning with visitors from tours as well as cruise ships, all arriving at the same time. Vendors tried to sell the "red book" on Pompeii for 8 E. Said no so they immediately asked for 5 E. We were greeted at the gates by tour guides offering their services for 10E for a 2 hr. tour. We queried one guide, Gennaro, and he spoke English very well so we hooked up with him. Paid another 10 E to get in. Unfortunately, as soon as Gennaro started his spiel his English deteriorated and we had difficulty understanding him. Still, all in all, it was money well spent as we learned a lot of the early Pompeiians on our 2 hr. tour. So much so, that we decided we had to see the Natural Museum in Napoli. There were many people who chose the option of renting an audioguide for 6.5 E. (Be sure you have some form of ID to leave as collateral).

Also took a mini-cruise of Capri (including a half hr. swimming near the Il Faraglioni), Positano, and Amalfi(2 hr. stopover for lunch) on Marine Cruises. It was a 7.5 hr. cruise for 22 E. Our boat had salt water and fresh water showers available. This was a great introduction to the area. Many of the Italians brought their own picnic lunches on board.

On Sun. morning we took the hydrofoil from Sorrento to Napoli, the last stop of our 2 week trip along the Amalfi coast. It was a 1/2 hr. trip on the hydrofoil for 7.5 E, one way, in an air conditioned cabin. Fortunately for us, most of the businesses in Naples were closed on Sunday so traffic was light, unlike the chaos when we first arrived. After checking in at our hotel, (Jolly Hotel), 15 min. walk from Molo Beverello, we walked, 20 mins) to the Natural Museum. It was a fascinating experience with much much more to see than just the artifacts from Pompeii.


Our last day was not without incident, however. As I checked out of the hotel, the desk clerk reminded me to only pay the metered rate. Our taxi driver did not speak any English. When he dropped us off at the airport the meter read 13.5 E. I offered to give him 20 E but he put it back in my hand and said to me (from what I could understand)that there was a night time surcharge and additional charges for our luggage so he wanted Trenta (30) euros. He became increasingly agitated and louder as I insisted I was not giving him any more than 20 E. We were both becoming more and more frustrated. I finally turned around and loudly said "where is the policia?". That did it. He quickly grabbed my money and took off. My wife and I had a good laugh but she said I shouldn't have given him any tip.

Final impressions:

Best hotel-la Minerva on Capri. Beautiful hotel with excellent service. 270 E per night but with no pool.

Best Value hotel- Villa Rosa. From the standpoint of location, price (140 E), and views this was quite a bargain. Room 32 (formerly room 18) is hard to beat in size and view but almost any room on the 3rd and 4th floors should have great views.

Friendliest staff-Villa Maria hotel, Ravello, 270 E per night, for the superior room although you can get a room for less(smaller though).

Worst Hotel- Il Nido Hotel in Sorrento. Very unfriendly staff made us feel most unwelcome. A shame when you are in the hospitality business.

Best dining experience- Donna Rosa Restaurant in Montepertuso. Elegant, formal, expensive, delicious. It doesn't get better than this.

Best dining value- Take your pick: Il Ritrovo and La Tagliata in Montepertuso; Ristorante San Giovanni in Pontone; Hotel Belsito Restaurant in Capri.

Best shopping- Sorrento for selection and prices.

Best view of Positano from Villa Rosa.

Best sea view- anywhere in Ravello.

Best form of transportation along the coast- Sita buses for cost, frequency, comfort, and views.

That's all for now. Hope this report helps someone else plan their trip to this beautiful part of Italy and thanks once again to all those Fodorites who contribute their experiences, tips, and thoughts on this message board. Prego.

Ciao, Ciao

"Breathe" I'm looking forward to hearing from you when you return to Portland.

aneckc-

What a fabulous report! I feel I am "seeing" the Amalfi Coast through your words. Your description of your meals makes me salivate. Glad you had a wonderful time.

I had the opposite experience at Il Nido. Gianni and staff opened the restaurant 2 hours early for us when we arrived because we were hungry and when we couldn't make up our minds about ordering brought out plates of appetizers at no charge. Another night they prepared food for my hungry daughter an hour after they were closed. Everytime we had a request or problem Gianni's answer was "In Italy no problems only solutions". I'm sorry you had a bad experience. Maybe they spent too much money on their pool and they are all depressed!

Everyone raves about the museum in Naples. Can you tell us what makes it so impressive?

Aneckc,

Here is a copy of what I wrote in my trip report re Il Nido. I guess we weren't the only ones!

We stayed at Il Nido in Sorrento based on lots of praise here and on trip advisor. Everyone commented on how friendly the owners were and how wonderful the whole experience was. I was generally pleased with the hotel but it was a bit of a let down after all we read. On the plus side, the hotel was clean, the inconvenience of staying away from the city centre was negated by the shuttle bus service, the view from the dining room were great and the owners made a special trip to take us to the train station and would not accept a tip. On the minus side, the service in the dining room was slow, the owners were fine but not as friendly as expected and the beds were bad. We had a double and two singles and none of them were particularly comfortable. One of the singles was really bad and you could feel the springs. We took turns sleeping on that bed.

Ciao aneckc,

A really great trip report and you give lots of useful information and you ate at some great restaurants, some of them off the beaten track. I am glad that you hiked down to Pontone and ate at the Ristorante San Giovanni (WWW.ristorantesangiovanni.com).Did you get the free hiking guide from the Ravello tourist office ?.